27:40. That is a Fed Industar-10 turned into a fake Leitz Elmar lens. you can also see this from the focus knob and the purple coating on the lenst (elmar has no coating)
Have you looked at the distance that the black inside part of the lenses extend from the rear of the lens when turned? I found that if the lens pushes the rangefinder arm too far back, the focusing smoothness gets really bad. By adjusting wedge on the rangefinder arm so that the lens doesn't push the arm all the way back into the camera, I was able to make the lens work smoothly. It didn't take much to go from bad to smooth nd back again. I did have to readjust the rangefinder afterwards, but it seems to have cured the problem for me.
I haven't but when lenses don't focus smoothly on certain bodies they do so over the entire focusing range (so also when the cam is in an extended position). And it's only certain lenses (designs) that suffer from this issue. For instance, Industar-50 is always smooth, because the focusing part is more to the front of the lens, so further away from the lens mount. Later Jupiter 8 lenses (the model with the rotating nose) also focus smoothly. I actually only saw the problem with non-rotating nose Jupiter 8 and Industar 61 (and probably I-26 also).
I use that same depth gauge for my job as well. One thing that drives me nuts is stacking tolerances- where each individual component is within specification, but once added together the whole assembly is out of spec. Very frustrating.
I know how you feel. It happened to me multiple of times too. But it's also caused by the flexibility of the body shell and the softness of the pressure plate springs. Many times I really doubt my measurements. Very very frustrating indeed.
@@AlinCiortea Maybe putting shims behind the pressure plate to prevent it from compressing when you take your measurements could help, but all this is way over my head.
@@UncleDon226 yeah, that's what I did for the bottom loaders (I added an extra set of springs for the measurement). The problem is that I have to take the body shell off for this, so it's not practical if you just need/want to check the working distance without any disassembly.
Most likely explanation IMHO: Weak materials and tolerances. If the lense mount is not perfectly circular (due to a knock or whatever) and the lense fits tightly into the threads, then the mount will press on the lens helicoid whereupon the lens moves unevenly. Equivalently: If the lens moves evenly, then the mount is either perfectly circular or it fits the threads with sufficient play. Most old FED-lenses do indeed fit somewhat losely into the L39 threads. Try for yourself: Does the lens wobble a little after the first turns in the mount? BTW, the later Zorki 1s (with only two screws on the backside) had a slightly stronger shell, still not as strong as a Leica. // Your leather covering is beautiful! Don't get hooked on the slip-ups only you know of. Perfection is rarely appreciated, or in other words, slight imperfection is rarely noticed 😉 (That's what Russian consumer goods are all about.)
Thank you! :) I'll do a cross check with my Canon 50 f1.8 that is a sturdy, brass made lens. I'll also check my soviet lenses on a Canon body, but I'm pretty sure I know already what I'll find. In the I'll probably need to pair certain iffy bodies and lenses that seem to like each other.
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Very interesting. I noticed my Minolta lens was a bit stiff when I put it on another body and had no idea why.
27:40. That is a Fed Industar-10 turned into a fake Leitz Elmar lens. you can also see this from the focus knob and the purple coating on the lenst (elmar has no coating)
Have you looked at the distance that the black inside part of the lenses extend from the rear of the lens when turned? I found that if the lens pushes the rangefinder arm too far back, the focusing smoothness gets really bad. By adjusting wedge on the rangefinder arm so that the lens doesn't push the arm all the way back into the camera, I was able to make the lens work smoothly. It didn't take much to go from bad to smooth nd back again. I did have to readjust the rangefinder afterwards, but it seems to have cured the problem for me.
I haven't but when lenses don't focus smoothly on certain bodies they do so over the entire focusing range (so also when the cam is in an extended position). And it's only certain lenses (designs) that suffer from this issue. For instance, Industar-50 is always smooth, because the focusing part is more to the front of the lens, so further away from the lens mount. Later Jupiter 8 lenses (the model with the rotating nose) also focus smoothly. I actually only saw the problem with non-rotating nose Jupiter 8 and Industar 61 (and probably I-26 also).
I use that same depth gauge for my job as well. One thing that drives me nuts is stacking tolerances- where each individual component is within specification, but once added together the whole assembly is out of spec. Very frustrating.
I know how you feel. It happened to me multiple of times too. But it's also caused by the flexibility of the body shell and the softness of the pressure plate springs. Many times I really doubt my measurements. Very very frustrating indeed.
@@AlinCiortea Maybe putting shims behind the pressure plate to prevent it from compressing when you take your measurements could help, but all this is way over my head.
@@UncleDon226 yeah, that's what I did for the bottom loaders (I added an extra set of springs for the measurement). The problem is that I have to take the body shell off for this, so it's not practical if you just need/want to check the working distance without any disassembly.
Most likely explanation IMHO: Weak materials and tolerances. If the lense mount is not perfectly circular (due to a knock or whatever) and the lense fits tightly into the threads, then the mount will press on the lens helicoid whereupon the lens moves unevenly. Equivalently: If the lens moves evenly, then the mount is either perfectly circular or it fits the threads with sufficient play. Most old FED-lenses do indeed fit somewhat losely into the L39 threads. Try for yourself: Does the lens wobble a little after the first turns in the mount? BTW, the later Zorki 1s (with only two screws on the backside) had a slightly stronger shell, still not as strong as a Leica. // Your leather covering is beautiful! Don't get hooked on the slip-ups only you know of. Perfection is rarely appreciated, or in other words, slight imperfection is rarely noticed 😉 (That's what Russian consumer goods are all about.)
Thank you! :)
I'll do a cross check with my Canon 50 f1.8 that is a sturdy, brass made lens. I'll also check my soviet lenses on a Canon body, but I'm pretty sure I know already what I'll find.
In the I'll probably need to pair certain iffy bodies and lenses that seem to like each other.