Your comment on the brake assembly being a pain and a lot of work @5:48 was an understatement. Oh my gosh what a royal pain getting it out and even more so getting it back in place..I lost count of curse words that were spewed during this task.
Lol. Working under the dash usually involves some cussing! Hopefully you removed the computer and the bracket to make it a little easier to pull the pedal assembly out.
@@321gogoman4 Completed the work SUCCESSFULLY yesterday! Thanks again! Your video really helped! The only thing I did differently was I didn't remove the brake pedal assembly. I just removed the pedal from the brake booster with a 10m wrench. Dropping the pedal to the floor game me enough room to slide in the heater core (but my cuts on the new core were closer to the unit, after the first bend). Anyone reading this--> Disclaimer YMMV ;)
Great job, i have a couple of questions, did you flush the coolant from the radiator? If so, did you purge the system? Thanks, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for the good vibes! The owner had mentioned the coolant was recently changed, so I pinched the heater hoses and saved the coolant. Bled and topped up the cooling system once the repair was done. I would do nothing more than a drain and fill if the coolant needed changing, unless there's a blockage where you would have to flush out the system.
Once you remove the 4 nuts holding the booster to the pedal assembly, then you wiggle the booster back enough so the studs clear the bracket to the pedal assembly. Hope that helps. Good luck!
I had a friend ask me if I could do this repair on his Torrent. He keeps getting air/losing coolant in his cooling system and can never bleed it all the way resulting in overheating. He thinks it needs the head gaskets done. I’m curious as to what symptoms you experienced to lead you to swap the heater core. Was there a loss of heat? Coolant found on the floor of the vehicle or driveway? Could a cracked heater core be introducing enough air to create the above symptoms? Thanks for your help and awesome video!
The temp guage needle was rising very high and there wasn't any heat inside the cabin. There wasn't any coolant in the expansion bottle. Didn't see any visible coolant leaking from under the hood. Your buddy's symptoms seem more like the leaks are at head gaskets. Did you check the engine oil condition and see if there is coolant in the oil? Good luck with your repairs!
@@321gogoman4 thanks so much for your reply! His symptoms are almost exactly the same. There is no coolant leaking underneath the car, temp gauge does rise, no heat inside as well, and lost coolant from expansion tank. I can actually feel some moisture by the pedals as well. Not a whole lot, but enough to make my finger tips wet and feel slimy like coolant. I drained engine oil and it was old, but no contamination. I think I’ll go ahead and do this repair. Thanks again!
@peakzeek8242 Hey there... I'm curious if you were able to do this repair and if it helped the situation or if you had to continue on beyond with the head gasket. Thanks in advance if you see this. 😅
@@Sara-vo1mw my situation got complicated. The heater core was 100% leaking. I did this repair without any issues (it’s easy except for the brake pedal assembly. That was a HUGE pain in the ass). After running the car to bleed air from the cooling system and check for leaks there was still air getting in and somehow causing it to overheat. I pressure tested the coolant system and found two leaks on lower intake manifold where coolant was getting out. Once we had the intake all apart and out we realize the head gaskets are right there and we might as well replace them because this Torrent has 250,000 miles. Unfortunately, when we took the heads to the machine shop to get them cleaned and resurfaced, the shop found small cracks on almost every cylinder between the intake and exhaust valves. The shop said it’s really common on this engines and that they aren’t repairable. So we’re currently looking for remanufactured cylinder heads to put on it. Sorry for the super long detailed response but that’s the can of worms that opened upon us trying to fix this torrent.
@peakzeek8242 Thanks! Please don't apologize for a long and detailed reply. It's perfect! I'm pretty sure my head gasket is cracked. If it wasn't before, it probably is at this point based on what you're saying and what I'm hearing. The symptoms sound similar. Quite honestly, I think I have multiple points of failure. I greatly appreciate the information you have shared here.
My 07 eqinox heater is blowing out cold air, but when i drive it long enough, it gets hot, then my car over heats. Does that sounds like a heater core problem? It over heats during the summer as well. I've change everything but the water pump and heater core..😢😢😢
@321gogoman4 No, I haven't. I guess I'll be doing that next. I hope it's not one of the two, you just named..lol. Thanks for the info. You have a new subscriber now..
Due to the confined space I couldn't try to wiggle out the pedal assembly and film it at the same time. @ 455 of the video I talk about what to remove off the pedal assembly to allow for removal. Hope this helps, good luck!
@@321gogoman4 one point I would like to make is that the brake pedal bracket on the 05-06 has a sensor bracket that is in the way of the core. 07-08 doesn’t so they don’t need to take the brake assembly out.
I removed the pedal assembly to make it easier for the heater core removal. It would be more of a struggle to remove the core with the pedals still in the car. I did it to make the job as easy as possible imo.
i have watched this video twice , maybe i am naive , but why do the lines have to be cut. dont the lines go through the firewall and are attached to the heater hoses in the engine bay. cant the new heater just be installed as a whole Thank you
I had some health issues and has taken me till now to recover. To answer your question: The pipes are made of aluminum and won't bend or flex at all and the heater core needs to slide out of its home towards the driver's side footwell. There isn't any wiggle room to pull back the pipes and slide out the heater core. It would require removing the dash and hvac box to remove the heater core in one piece. I'm showing you how to do the short cut, so you don't need to remove the dash. Good luck with your repairs and keep wrenching!
I used taped to mark how far the old pipes went through the firewall. The cuts on the new heater core should be straight as possible, so it won't require much effort to line up the pipes and get the hoses to go through easy. The biggest thing is to make sure coolant does leak out of the hoses. Double clamp the hose ends if you have to.
@@321gogoman4 so why did you have to cut the tubes from the heater core? Can you not keep the heater core tubes the same length and just push them through the firewall or is there not enough room? Someone asked the question already in comments but you never answered I have to do this job soon myself, great video
In modern cars and trucks (post 1981) it should be noted that all hex screws, nuts, and bolts are Metric. Some SAE sockets and wrenches will fit and work fine, but are not exactly the right fit.
I have to do this job tomorrow on my daughter's car (08)..the shop wants over 2K. Wish me luck and thank you for this video bro, I feel confident!!😁
I'm glad this video helped you out!
If you get a chance, go check out my other videos! Much appreciated!
Happy to have found this video. Great alternative. I’ll check back in when I’m done and see if I can add anything productive to the procedure.
Thanks for the good vibes! I'm glad you find my video helpful! Good luck with your repairs!
Your comment on the brake assembly being a pain and a lot of work @5:48 was an understatement. Oh my gosh what a royal pain getting it out and even more so getting it back in place..I lost count of curse words that were spewed during this task.
Lol. Working under the dash usually involves some cussing! Hopefully you removed the computer and the bracket to make it a little easier to pull the pedal assembly out.
@@321gogoman4 yes I did thanks to the video 💪💪 it’s all good. Good info, much appreciated.
Thanks for the comprehensive tear down. Thinking I'm going to have to do the same process on my 2007 Silver Torrent!
Thanks for your positive vibes!
I'm glad my video helped you out!
Good luck with your repair!
@@321gogoman4 Completed the work SUCCESSFULLY yesterday! Thanks again! Your video really helped! The only thing I did differently was I didn't remove the brake pedal assembly. I just removed the pedal from the brake booster with a 10m wrench. Dropping the pedal to the floor game me enough room to slide in the heater core (but my cuts on the new core were closer to the unit, after the first bend). Anyone reading this--> Disclaimer YMMV ;)
@@thechazzerbdid it fix the heat?
Thanks was very helpful!
Great work. 👍
Keep up with the good info 🤘
Thanks for the good vibes! Appreciate it!
Great job, i have a couple of questions, did you flush the coolant from the radiator? If so, did you purge the system? Thanks, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for the good vibes!
The owner had mentioned the coolant was recently changed, so I pinched the heater hoses and saved the coolant. Bled and topped up the cooling system once the repair was done. I would do nothing more than a drain and fill if the coolant needed changing, unless there's a blockage where you would have to flush out the system.
@@321gogoman4 thanks bro, really appreciate your time and help.
How did you get the break booster backed off? SOS Im stuck at the step you take the pedals out cause I can’t get the booster back
Once you remove the 4 nuts holding the booster to the pedal assembly, then you wiggle the booster back enough so the studs clear the bracket to the pedal assembly. Hope that helps. Good luck!
I had a friend ask me if I could do this repair on his Torrent. He keeps getting air/losing coolant in his cooling system and can never bleed it all the way resulting in overheating. He thinks it needs the head gaskets done. I’m curious as to what symptoms you experienced to lead you to swap the heater core. Was there a loss of heat? Coolant found on the floor of the vehicle or driveway? Could a cracked heater core be introducing enough air to create the above symptoms? Thanks for your help and awesome video!
The temp guage needle was rising very high and there wasn't any heat inside the cabin. There wasn't any coolant in the expansion bottle. Didn't see any visible coolant leaking from under the hood.
Your buddy's symptoms seem more like the leaks are at head gaskets. Did you check the engine oil condition and see if there is coolant in the oil? Good luck with your repairs!
@@321gogoman4 thanks so much for your reply! His symptoms are almost exactly the same. There is no coolant leaking underneath the car, temp gauge does rise, no heat inside as well, and lost coolant from expansion tank. I can actually feel some moisture by the pedals as well. Not a whole lot, but enough to make my finger tips wet and feel slimy like coolant. I drained engine oil and it was old, but no contamination. I think I’ll go ahead and do this repair. Thanks again!
@peakzeek8242 Hey there... I'm curious if you were able to do this repair and if it helped the situation or if you had to continue on beyond with the head gasket. Thanks in advance if you see this. 😅
@@Sara-vo1mw my situation got complicated. The heater core was 100% leaking. I did this repair without any issues (it’s easy except for the brake pedal assembly. That was a HUGE pain in the ass). After running the car to bleed air from the cooling system and check for leaks there was still air getting in and somehow causing it to overheat. I pressure tested the coolant system and found two leaks on lower intake manifold where coolant was getting out. Once we had the intake all apart and out we realize the head gaskets are right there and we might as well replace them because this Torrent has 250,000 miles. Unfortunately, when we took the heads to the machine shop to get them cleaned and resurfaced, the shop found small cracks on almost every cylinder between the intake and exhaust valves. The shop said it’s really common on this engines and that they aren’t repairable. So we’re currently looking for remanufactured cylinder heads to put on it. Sorry for the super long detailed response but that’s the can of worms that opened upon us trying to fix this torrent.
@peakzeek8242 Thanks! Please don't apologize for a long and detailed reply. It's perfect! I'm pretty sure my head gasket is cracked. If it wasn't before, it probably is at this point based on what you're saying and what I'm hearing. The symptoms sound similar. Quite honestly, I think I have multiple points of failure. I greatly appreciate the information you have shared here.
My 07 eqinox heater is blowing out cold air, but when i drive it long enough, it gets hot, then my car over heats. Does that sounds like a heater core problem? It over heats during the summer as well. I've change everything but the water pump and heater core..😢😢😢
Hey Ron, it sounds like you have a leaking head gasket or cracked cylinder. Have you pressure tested the cooling system for leaks?
@321gogoman4 No, I haven't. I guess I'll be doing that next. I hope it's not one of the two, you just named..lol. Thanks for the info. You have a new subscriber now..
Let us know what you find. Good luck with your repairs!
Thanks for subbing! ❤
If you don't care about the heat(heated seats) is this still necessary?
The heated seats are electric and nothing to do with the cooling system. Coolant runs through the heater core to give you heat inside the cabin.
Your a life saver 😮almost scrap the car lol
Yay! Saved one from the crusher.
I'm glad you found this video helpful!
no one is yet to show how to get the brake assembly out from under that steering colmn?
Due to the confined space I couldn't try to wiggle out the pedal assembly and film it at the same time. @ 455 of the video I talk about what to remove off the pedal assembly to allow for removal. Hope this helps, good luck!
@@321gogoman4 one point I would like to make is that the brake pedal bracket on the 05-06 has a sensor bracket that is in the way of the core. 07-08 doesn’t so they don’t need to take the brake assembly out.
I removed the pedal assembly to make it easier for the heater core removal. It would be more of a struggle to remove the core with the pedals still in the car. I did it to make the job as easy as possible imo.
@@DENNISJOHNSON-jj9nlI’m stuck on this spot as well at the moment. What was your solution?
i have watched this video twice , maybe i am naive , but why do the lines have to be cut. dont the lines go through the firewall and are attached to the heater hoses in the engine bay. cant the new heater just be installed as a whole Thank you
I had some health issues and has taken me till now to recover.
To answer your question: The pipes are made of aluminum and won't bend or flex at all and the heater core needs to slide out of its home towards the driver's side footwell. There isn't any wiggle room to pull back the pipes and slide out the heater core. It would require removing the dash and hvac box to remove the heater core in one piece. I'm showing you how to do the short cut, so you don't need to remove the dash. Good luck with your repairs and keep wrenching!
Doing the same thing today. Solid video
How long did this take in total. Roughly.
With filming this job, it took 6hrs, but I should be able to get it done in 3-4hrs.
Is most of that time cutting and lining the hoses up nice?
I used taped to mark how far the old pipes went through the firewall. The cuts on the new heater core should be straight as possible, so it won't require much effort to line up the pipes and get the hoses to go through easy. The biggest thing is to make sure coolant does leak out of the hoses. Double clamp the hose ends if you have to.
@@321gogoman4 so why did you have to cut the tubes from the heater core? Can you not keep the heater core tubes the same length and just push them through the firewall or is there not enough room? Someone asked the question already in comments but you never answered I have to do this job soon myself, great video
@@duanerachkowski7130please read my response to bertwalker2700.
Good luck with your repairs!
Think I’m going to be a mechanic to do this? Lol
If I can do it, you can do it!
If you find my videos helpful please consider subscribing! Good luck with your repairs!
In modern cars and trucks (post 1981) it should be noted that all hex screws, nuts, and bolts are Metric. Some SAE sockets and wrenches will fit and work fine, but are not exactly the right fit.
That's true 👍 I find using SAE sockets around the dash and center console work just fine. It's my preference. Happy wrenching!
Not true at all. GM and Ford used a mix of Metric and Sae into the 2000's.