Recasting Miniatures - No Warhammer 40k Figures Were Hurt in the Making of this Video
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- This video is purely a tutorial on making a 2 part mold & resin casting, watch until the end to see how the casted figures and molds are destroyed.
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*Disclaimer - I do not condone or endorse copying parts for financial gain or to replicate in full a figure/vehicle. I am purely demonstrating how a two part mold is made and all casts and molds are destroyed at the end of the video
Also included in this video warhammer 40k,warhammer 40000,games workshop,citadel miniatures,citadel paints,warhammer 40 painting,fantasy diorama,how i painted,warhammer40k kitbashing,40k scratch build,mould making,casting parts,2 part mould,liquid plastic,how to cast figures,two part mould making,Making Warhammer 40k Parts,Mould Making & Casting,siligum mould making,Watch how I make,5 easy steps to making moulds,mold making,2 part mold,recasting warhammer 40k,recasting
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You disposed of your new models by building painting and playing with them. Right?
@@mutehowl not sure if you watched until the end but I kinda set them on fire =)
Gave me the idea to make myself some space marine candles, just gotta fit a wick in them and cast em in wax.
11:41 aah, the classic "rolled a 1 on a Plasma gun" look
Yep, or as I like to call it, the 8th edition “results of overcharging my hellblasters to take out an elder flier because I was desperate” look
Love your guys’ videos by the way.
Haha, yup I think I enjoyed that a bit too much. Im now looking at how I can incorporate some fire damage into a diorama, either that or make a diorama to purposely set on fire =)
@@MiniatureHobbyist 2 words, enamel paint. 2 more as a bonus, isopropyl alcohol.
@@MiniatureHobbyist enamel is flammable, combine it with the 90% alcohol and you've got a nice flame.
it would be a good conversion or for scenic bases
New legion of the dammed models look good
Yup the melted look is so in at the moment =)
They came to the rescue in our direst moments
the poor mans lungs
Regardless of whether it is "real" or "fake", it hurts my heart to watch beautifully made miniatures being burned.
For Years i make some Bits myself because you can't see the difference after they have been painted
if they are well-made.
I just wanted to prove a point that this video is more a tutorial than a way of mass producing items so wanted to destroy the figures and to be honest it gave me more pleasure than I thought when they caught fire =)
@@MiniatureHobbyist Haha A little strange ... on the other hand, I know it very well. I just "heavy rusted" a Castellan knight with a rotary tool 2 months ago.
@@MiniatureHobbyist Besides what's a couple burnt figures when you've made 100 more off cam right? lol j/k j/k I enjoyed watching them burning. The gold one looked kinda cool burnt up. lol
@@MiniatureHobbyist I know of an old Vietnam vet, who's sadly passed. That used to like building model airplanes and putting them on lines of string with explosives on them. And then had them go towards each other on the strings and "blow" each other up.
@@stephenswift6956 That sounds amazing
When GW threatens your life so you need to delete all your recast equipment.
Who?
@@dreademperor2094 Games Workshop
@@Doodlebob563 thank you
If they did that, I'd take them to court. Making a serious threat to kill someone is illegal.
They got far bigger problems in the form of resin 3d printers.
Brilliant!
You're not making copying miniatures, you're making scatter terrain for a dragon's lair!
Also, save those cut up molds to use as filler for bigger future casts. Saves a ton of dosh.
Haha yup and yes good idea on the cut up molds, unfortunately it has all gone in the bin, maybe next time =)
Should have kept the molds and made actual wax candles instead... 😁
DUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUDE 200IQ COMMENT
burning them and leaving the feet would make awesome death tokens
Haha yup 🙂
Yeah like in the old space crusade game for Amiga
"How to make Aggressor candles"
GW would like to know your location and have you sign over all rights to Aggressor Candles....which will now be made by the Yankee company.
@@cthulhupacifico6008 Now available in Ork-B-Q scent and - introducing the new Tankee Candle range of bug bombs and fumigation accessories - Exterminatus Extremis.
I was surprised how well they burned. For some reason I thought they would just melt but that liquid resin is tough stuff lol =)
@@cthulhupacifico6008 haha they probably wood =)
@@f0rth3l0v30fchr15t sounds good heres my money =)
Miniature Hobbyist: I’m not the messiah!
Everyone: He is the messiah!
I love monty python
Honestly, I would have kept the burn feet, just for scenery.
You can use the cut molds as filler around future silicone pours. Save yourself some of the new materials.
Yup I wish I had thought of that before throwing it all in the bin, oh well we live and learn =)
Can you elaborate on this what do you mean exactly?
@@quickdiy8127 so, you can use the cut up bits of the molds to fill gaps when pouring out a new mold or two, effectively reducing how much you have to pour into it to make the mold.
I know this is an older video but wanted to say thanks! I have old metal minis that are out of production and have 1 weapon piece between the 7 of them, following this guide means I can finally make the extra weapons I needed. LEGEND!
Also I threw a few random ork bits together for a 1-part mold which made some awesome unique scatter terrain :)
The Light of The Emperor in the Darkness
He certainly lit up my studio lol =)
dont bother with tin, its way way harder. because of the weight it tends to seep in between the parts with such tiny molds, so they need to be pressed together quite tightly. then molds need to be bigger so the squeeze doesnt deform the negative spaces. it becomes almost instantly solid, meaning lots of trapped air. tin with lead is poisenous, the right type is hard to get by for amateurs. all in all very expensive. its also way more dangerous due to the intense heat obviously. lots of other reason and just not worth it for casual recasters is my advice.
Considered using wax in the moulds to make safer candles than resin?
What... and have Skankee Candles after you as well...I don't think so
Haha yup, you know what I might actually try that and see what the results are. Cheers for giving me an idea for my next video =)
@@davewilliams6172 they can join the que at my door =)
Can't you use these molds with wax, then use lost wax casting (you'd make another mold from the miniature you just cast) to make metal versions?
You forgot the part where you dump the mix into a separate cup and mix again.
This will make sure that you don't get any unmixed materials into any of the molds/parts.
Makes the whole thing a bit more consistent.
Also a vacuum chamber can get rid of all those air bubbles. But that takes a lot of time and money.
Applying vibrations can also help. Modern video game controllers have something like that built in.
I wonder how GW feels about 3D printing? There are lots of tutorials explaining how to 3D print minis. It seems strange GW feels threatened by a simple mold making tutorial🤔
I will probably find out soon as I am getting a 3D printer soon =)
They regularly get models pulled down from stl library sites, some comply, others tell them to pound sand.
The main problem is that people in the community complained about it with the company itself and demanded they took action. On the 3d printing thing they don't like it but try to avoid talking about it changing the subject when asked.
I don't know if it would be possible/easier/cheaper for them to do it themselves with official products as a replacement for their casting methods without loosing much detail, specially since they already do the files digitally in some kind of cad program and many pieces have gone out of production because of "damaged master molds" specially with Forgeworld which use resin already.
I hate resin as is, PS is just better. I don't see them doing anything to go backwards in casting methods. Could possibly work for FW stuff however.
@Jody B are they really? I thought they said they used a plastic injection method, although the files were made by cad.
On the bad side if anyone leaked those files it would be a major corporate theft and it could and would be severely prosecuted unlike how they deal with most recasters.
This is an amazing battle damage tutorial! I cant wait to set fire to my models!
Haha do it, believe me it is very rewarding if not a little scary lol =)
Well, it's a method that has a great tradition! ruclips.net/video/c-W6OF1d6pw/видео.html
@@jherazob....amazing! ....i also want to do this....
oh dear
I Use the same teknike for jewlery
Looking good
But for gods sake
Dont squeees the mold, yes you allow air to escape, but allso allow it to enter the mould and you get allot of more cleaing.
But a nice video!! Thanks
Thank you and I know im naughty for squeezing it, I need to put the mould into something solid to stop me from doing it lol =)
Miniature Hobbyist I’ve been using the LEGO I used to mold/cast with! It just made sense
Also having more air ducts from multiple angles. You can always loop them around to come back out at the top. That way, when you see the resin come up through the vent, you know it's made its way to the areas like the fingers. Crude diagram below (please excuse the formatting if it doesn't line up right on your screen):
Resin goes in here
| No resin gets poured here;
| allow air to come up (vent)
| |
\/ \/
____________________ _______________ ___
| | | || |
| | | || |
| O || |
| Model --> |[]| || |
| / \ ============ |
| |
| ______________________________________ |
To reduce the air pockets and ensure that the resin pour manages to reach all the areas of the mold one thing you can do is before you seal the two halves very quickly rub some of the resin into those hard to reach areas and then seal up the mold and pour the resin in. What this will do is lubricate the mold and so reduces surface tension allowing the resin to flow much easier through the mold.
If you used an actual release agent, as well as using Lego to build your pouring box rather than using tape, you would have an easier time separating the two halves and much less flash. The only reason you are getting so much flash is because the box mold isn't securely touching.
You can drastically improve the quality of any molds you do by putting them in a small vacuum chamber o/
There is so much work and skill involved in this. Hard to believe anyone thinks it is a serious threat to their business model.
I tried this many, many years back with the first tau stealth suit to moderate success. The clear resin took away details like on yours which worked to its benefits but there were some parts that were mishaped because i didnt really know what i was doing. I painted it to look like it was coming out of stealth to cover that which was fine but i wish i had access to videos like this back then.
9:48 THE LEGION OF THE DAMNED HAVE ENTERED THE CHAT!
I like how you literally end this with saying "It's okay to commit a this particular type of crime if the IP owner isnt' well known." Dude. It's the opposite. Screw GW. Support little guy.
Yea, my thoughts exactly.
While the little guy is defo the one to Support, gw is the one to fuck you Up. I think that might have been the reason :)
If everyone said screw GW, there would be no Warhammer minis at all.
@@Parasiticism good thing whales exist
@@Parasiticism Oh no, Geedubs would stop screwing the lore. How terrible.
wtf this channel is Horus to eyes of GW. Excelent
A nurgle conversion of those would be fun ti watch.
"once it´s done I give it a little tap"
*SHAKES VIOLENTLY*
If GW comes after the little guy, must mean the technique is worth learning. Thx for the video!
I'm aiming to get an ork horde out of the 30 or so I already have, so I'm using this tutorial :)
Gsc players love this too 😁
Talcum as release agent is not the first choise for silicon molds. Try a sprayed release agent, it is worth the money. Maybe even take a brush with some vaseline aka petroleum jelly. Same is to say for the release of the casts.
If you pour resin in the air-outlet you must not wonder about trapped air. Try to pour in the inlet only and let the resin flow trough the mould. Let the bubbles disappear from resin-liquid before mixing, the air will not disappear in the mold (where can it go?)
GW Censors: RELEASE THE LITIGATORS
I hope they are not made of plastic, I have my lighter at the ready =)
I know you have to do this for copyright issues. But I'm screaming at my phone NNNOOOOOO!!!!!!
If I or one of you subscribers make you a green stuff model could you do a video on how to break it down and mould it😁 that could be a thing on your channel like a competition to gane traction. Love the videos keep going💚🇮🇪
I had a friend who made moulds like this though for his own sculptures which he sold. This was many years ago. These days 3d modelling, cheap 3d scanners, and cheap 3d printing, definitely change the game in that way too... how easy it is to print things out without going all "classic & old school".
This is some quality GW baiting.
Great video aswell. Really enjoying your work mate.
Video nearly killed me just taking about plastic burning 🤣🤣"just set fire to him on my desk" 😂😂 love it
Personally, I won't be doing this for actual units/models. But I will be doing this for terrain, like homemade pillars/debris and boxed vines. Then I took a wounded sister of battle from the hospitaller box, and I'm doing this with her. Using her for terrain/accents.
Personally I don’t see anything wrong with keeping the minis especially if you only use them to play games at home and aren’t selling or gifting them ,as home use is what I do especially using home brewed rules ( I use a d10 system unlike GW ) . But great tutorial and TY for posting 👍
As a suggestion to those who do this. If you fill a straw with the plastic mix you can make a straw sized channel in your mould that you can push plastic through with either your mouth or a syringe to make a basic pressure injection mould system
Great video, I think doing this by the sprue and in a pressure chamber would produce better and comparable quality molds. Obviously not for any games workshop figures.
9:50 BROTHERS, MY FACE IS MELTING!
BROTHER! PUT IT OUT WITH MORE FIRE!
Thanks a ton. This was super useful. I have some old toys I wanna repair and I figure this way between the two of them I can clone the parts that each one is missing from the other.
DAMN, now that's a cool idea. Fighting with a custodes army of real gold models o.0
I'll have to try this!
This is great for making easy kitbashes
Awesome! I've been wanting to do a minotaurs chapter but didn't want to have to buy a metric crap ton of spears... I now have a solution.
Awesome video.
And I can't wait to see the aggressor explode.. like they all should 😂
Cheers buddy, I just hope I can find some of his remains after he explodes lol =)
The burning of the Space Marine Castings would create good casting for large model bases and custom gameboards. You can paint them quickly then burn them, then paint put a clear-coat over the burn and place them at the feet of other models, or destroyed pieces of terrain.
To upgade the methode, you can use a vibrating support while puting the resin in, resine tank added to the mold and vaccum chamber are best to clear air bubbles. Of course, use that only for yourself and nothing else ^^
To prevet air bubble you can soak the silicone mold in water with a few drops of rinse aid. It will break the surface tension that traps the air bubbles. The tip is from Hirts arts, he calls it "wet water"
I’m thinking Tau Stealth Suits with the clear, maybe partially painted? That could be pretty slick.
Great vid, one of the better casting tutorials out there.
Thank you so much, I will be doing more once I get some non GW figures and trying out different methods =)
Thank for this video! i cloned legs-bodies-heads and few pieces of the Astra Militarum Heavy Weapons box and being able to build: 3x of each weapon: total 15 heavy weapons with just a single box, and by cloning few bodies and legs i will gain around 40 free full space marines with spare bits. Dear GW, instead of cry about censors and reserved rights, you have to realize that the world is changing and your prices no longer worth the candle: if you want to survive as miniature producer is time for you to rethink all your product's prices.. or soon we will selfbuild our miniatures just with 3D scan&print or easy molds like these. I told u, make your calculations :P
LordAlvinhaze agree with you 200% for free plans to scratch building vehicles from all 40k factions join the yahoo group bwc archive , all plans are to scale and can be made from either card or plastic card. Sculpt on some miliput, add a few bits , paint and add decals and a lot of players never know . Also if bringing to a Con, just make it from the box that some official models came in and leave the bottom unpainted , so when picked up my chimera can be seen to be made out of an old dark elves infantry, therefore the model is made from GW product
This is am amazing homemade candle tutorial.
AHH, I warms my heart to see, how the efing aggressor got burned, for his 2D6 Assault 4 0 1 double shot under salamanders buffs
Hi, I don't know if anyone mentioned that, but can you please use some sort of gloves, when working with resin?
You maybe are experienced with that. But many people watching that aren't. And resin is not to be underestimated. Especially 2 part resins. I'm actually a model- and mould maker and I appreciate your video (of course not what I mentioned). Have seen someone mentioned the fact you poured resin into the air vent, big mistake! Hope to see your tin project. Maybe I can answer you some questions. Otherwise great videos, hang on with this great content.
Your really talented, and got great creative ideas. Wish I had stuck with it. Was crap at painting so got put off.
Fair play mate I really enjoyed that keep making good videos
... and you're making a few nibbly-nobbly bits in the process!
Could you use cut up and melted plastic sprue for this?
Would this be an effective way to cast small bits? Like say...a tiny rune or tuft of wolf hair to use to wolf up some space marines? I tried doing a blue stuff mold and green stuff but the detail was poor.
For that you would have to use of a 1 part mold just from the piece you want visible. I am doing this for Blood Angels in fact. Also, if the details are too small you should try using something different to greenstuff, like uv resin or some different epoxi resin like procreate from greenstuff world designed for fine detail.
If what you want to copy has a nice flat edge then I would do a 1 part mould, 2 part moulds are for more complex pieces.
If you like burning things, you should cast a mini in candle wax and put a wick in the torso.
I did cast some terrain in wax with a wick in it, check that video out =)
i think those would be good to use as casualties in terrain after all burn out space marines probably would happen with melta weapons
If you want to colour your clear cast resin I'd add the colour to one of the two parts, mix it well and then pour the second part into it. By doing this you can see how well your resin is mixed.
liquid vaseline from hobbycraft will give you a better release than talc for the second part of the mold
i bet the GW is loving this lol
And this kids, is how people had to 3D print back in the day.
In a serious way, it would be cool to be able to cast some of them with wax, to make pretty astartes candles ^^
This is like...EXXXTREEME ARTS AND CRAFTS!
Dude, your tutorials and mini hacks are great. Great detail and format, transparent.. Keep it up!
What is that brown stuff you use at the beginning?
Could you show the size difference between the origional and the mold?
This seems like a fairly good way to make limbs and pieces for dioramas. I love collapsed terminators and broken dreadnoughts just melded into the scenery, but one’s wallet certainly doesn’t.
Also am wondering the legality of recasting minis from old out of print games like hero quest , space crusade ? Doesn’t seem like MB is interested in going after people like GW. Also what about minis that GW has discontinued especially if they were cast in metal it’d be difficult to tell from original. I’m just theorizing nor am I advocating doing so. Ok, disclaimer finished, any answers appreciated.
I saw a comment on a different one of your videos a while back - and I've taken to calling recasts: "Battlemallet 68k" models.
You ever make one of the figures with the sprew good and dispose of him in the acetone and watch him melt and sink into the sprew goo kind of like the blob, time to assimilate
Great video!
You are a legend.
Can’t do that to the old pewter figures... loved those as a kid...
And still do 🤔
That's really cool Dude, maybe i do the same how you do.
How many mini's can you roughly make out of all the resin and mould bottles?
How reliable is this with complex models like death guard and all their endless details?
There's so much flash I thought it was a ForgeWorld model!
oh cool, now i can recast my kit-bashes and sell them!!
Think you could put your sprue goo into these moulds and make plastic minis?
So, would it be a better idea to cast the parts still on the sprue's? Cuz the sprues are already interconnected and could function as your airhole bits. Then you'd only need one bigger mold for a whole model.
tbf you could try to use these molds to make candles
Great video! I was wondering which product create best result? Resin or fast plastic? Is there much difference? Thank you!
Now those are Some flame aggressors
Inspired me to try it out myself mate, cheers!
I love this guy
Have you tried the pewter (tin) casting?
I don't like plastic minis so I'm thinking in casting the ones i have.
This is how you can get back to the glorious time of GWs Finecast.
Damn I really wanna do this. I have an old culchan model which I wanna make a mold off and make more culchan for skink riders and then my custom space marines
He had one aggressor, now he has a whole cast...
Honza Balák
I use a different method: Oyumaru for molds and two part epoxy putty as the actual minifig material.
The nice thing about this method is that I don't have to worry about bubbles and if the mold isn't good, I can simply put it in warm water and create a new one. I don't pay for mistakes with mold material, which is really nice.
But it has it's limits. I found out that copying Warhammer models is really easy, but 1/72 and 1/100 scale is too small. The gun barrels are too thin and they always break.
Couldn’t you make molds of the sprues too
How would you recommend recasting a sword and shield? Still flat but with a smaller mold or vertical?
I love how you want to try setting the moulds on fire too. My guy!