I just spent hours on watching a man hammering on an old piece of aluminium… But I loved it. Very interesting to see how a professional approaches a restoration like this. Thank you for keep on sharing these informative videos.
Thanks Wray and Mark for continuing this series. I have enjoyed watch how the process progresses (more Ps) and the thought process. This channel deserves a larger audience. Thanks again Take care
the fact that you are resurrecting a panel is just as informative as making a new one, my mother and i have both been watching and find it interesting in how you go about the process, thanks and please keep it up.
Wray. Really fun to watch. I'm getting worried since I'm starting to be able to anticipate your next move. So, I guess from now 'til next week Eric is replaced by derrick.
I remember 50 years ago watching my uncle pound out the damage on an early 50's Renault convertible using a hammer and dollies. He learned the trade in the Air Force during WW2 fixing damaged planes. Beautiful work with simple tools. Thanks for explaining the process so clearly.
Fantastic progress Wray, possible suggestion with these type of videos is at the end do a short "before" and "after" shot of each episode to mark the progress. Love the blooper outtakes,
I'm definitely enjoying this series! It's a shame the algorithm prefers to promote bodywork videos featuring some backyard barbarian stuffing rusty rocker panels with spray foam and beating out dents with a claw hammer. Your videos should be one of the first things that pops up when people search "How to do bodywork"
It looks like we have a new *P* word in the comments, *Pliers.* Also a lot of audience *Participation* educating us on what industry the pliers are from. Happy New Year Wray, Mark, and everyone else.
Tonight I measured the headlight diameter on a 1962 Austin-Healey, right where your gauge went and it is 8 5/8". That car should have the same shroud as the one you are working on. Hopefully that will help.
Newly produced aluminium is soft and it age hardens. If you have to form fab items, it helps if you can get recently produced metal. We learned to be pleased if we had to wait for delivery. Patience pays off in more ways than you expect.
Coming along, real nice now! This is top class entertainment! 👍😃 Here's another P-word; pursuance - the carrying out or pursuing of an action, plan, etc.
Hi , dont miss out the bits you think are boring ,, these are the very details some of us need and love to see being done . I can beat things out with a big hammer close enough , but its that last finesse thats crucial . Im surprised that you didnt weld it back into one piece early on ,, I probably would have , but its these little things that make every day a school day.
Gotta have a lot of piss and vinegar!!! Thanks for sharing everything you've shared with us this year. There are a group of guys like me out here who just LOVE watch you share your craft. Cheers!!!
Thanks Wray. I would not have thought that aluminum potato chip you started with would become the shroud it is now. Very satisfying to watch the progress. Look forward to the next installment. Happy new year!
Hope you had a good Christmas Wray and Mark, nice to see the progress. you need to add Pain lol for those times when your thumb gets a little too far past the dolly! Looking forward to the E-type bonnet completion as well.
Hi Wray, for the shape of of the headlamp you could use any 7" headlamp bowl and chrome ring as I'd say probably 95% of British cars from the 50's to late 70's use the same size headlamp unit, might be closer in size than the card template. Loving the work.
Wray regarding the headlight opening if you have the headlight bucket from a MGB, Jag Mk1 or 2 or 150 they should all be the 10/32 bolt pattern to the body and would be pattern. Standard Lucas 7” headlight bucket I believe. I wonder if prayer 🙏🏻 should be at the top of list for the other 4 p’s. Cheers
If anyone can make chicken soup out of feathers you are it. When I was in college in the late 60’s a guy at my fraternity had a Healey. A 100 series I think. It was aluminum and was so soft you would dare not lean on it. It would dent. I’m not surprised how workable this one is.
Hi Wray, I do believe those odd shaped pliers you have and tossed into the bucket are an old pair of lasting pincers. The threaded hole is for a replaceable hammer type head. The lasting pincers are used for making shoes to help stretch the leather around the last form. The pair you have may be Whitcher Union Pincers.
I have a very similar pair with a non-removeable hammer head. They were my Grandfather's, who was a sheet metal worker. There is a manufacturer's mark on the side of the hammer head, but it's unreadable aside from a large number 2.
Thanks for the heads up on the alloys. I just found some 1100 H14 which was unavailable for about 3 years. I build bike tanks and the annealed 1100 stretches further before crystallizing. Thanks for your tip on patience. Something often overlooked and possessed by real craftsmen.
Great video 👍love the fact you teach metal shaping and parenting and marriage guidance 😅,I came across aircraft aluminum called durallium in the UK tough stuff
Did a little bit of google searching on your pliers and I think they’re cobbler pliers, but I did find a company in Germany called Freund that makes similar pliers for bending metal like gutters and HVAC work. Speaking of HVAC, I use a few different tools like straight jaw pliers to help correct my flanges. Give them a nice squeeze and tap one of the jaws with a hammer and it looks really good with the benefit of not stretching out the metal too much. They’re not ideal for all situations, but they’ve helped me out a ton. As always I loved the video, and keep on rockin on, Wray!
Hi Wray, fantastic videos. When i was apprentice in the sixties we used 18 guage i think. I remember this being easy to work. Almost certainly manufactured in the U.K. I was going to mention the grille but did not want you to prove me wrong!!. I have a stripped shroud with grille still fitted if you want detailed pictures as it is not symetrical all round. Keep up the good work. David. U.K.
I am enjoying this series I have a 100/4 that the rear shroud has bee over worked some time in it's life and want to repair so this is very spot on for me. I think your pliers ar farriers pliers used in horse shoeing.
Ive only used 1050A aluminium over here in England. You can bend it with one thumb. Id like to try some other types to see how they work. Love the videos
I have learned to love the Chinese sourced 3003 H-14 which I have been getting from my suppliers. After shaping a panel it is very dent resistant. I do now anneal where I need to shrink or torture the metal into an extreme shape.
@@proshaper the dent resistance is a good feature. The 1050 is easily dented in my opinion. Ive also seen 1050 from the same supplier look completely different. The metal ive used is normally the same finish either side. One day some got delivered and it was almost polished looking on one side. I dont know why it was different but it was definitely the nicest id ever worked with and it was very bright which was a good thing also
Interesting talk on Al. Here in NZ my local supplier has ‘1200 H14’ always in stock, a well known coach builder (Tempero) close to me also uses it. Easy to work
It would be a good bit of information to know what type of aluminum everyone is using around the world. Also knowing what was used in the past would be helpful as well. The corner thumb bending test says a lot.
@@proshaper yes this stuff corner bends easy which has been helpful for me to learn. Would like to try out some of the stiffer grades in the future, especially for Landrover panels as largely flat need all the dent resistance the metal can provide
I never heard of 3103 in aircraft, 1100 is used a little bit in aircraft Stearman gear leg farings are made with 1100...alot of ww2 English aircraft used 5052.
I’d be willing to bet that the person that tucked this away way back when to save it never dreamed “saving it” would move much beyond maybe, someday, using the other half for a repair. I wonder if it’s possible they’re watching, or have any idea..
I'm not sure if he is watching. I have to thank him for not scrapping all the stuff we bought from him. It is a treasure chest of possibility. Wait to you see the damaged Lomborghini hood.
I did that and I wasn't aware that I was. I guess I figured a lighter hit was needed. If a light hit or accumulated hits did not move the metal, then hit is harder.
Good question. I haven't stripped enough of the paint away yet to see if there are any hand made marks. From what I have read Jenson made them for Healey. Maybe someone knows the Healey history and will answer. I'll ask this question when I make another video in the series later today.
Do you ever use a shrinking hammer on aluminum? Not sure if you can or not. Second question is do you know anyone interested in buying some body hammers. I have around 100 and need to thin out my collection. I am in North Attleboro and not far from you.
Hi Bill, Anything that scars metal( shrinking hammers) I try not to use. Email me some pictures of the hammers you would like to sell. wray@proshaper.com or text 508 347 7749
Could you make this part quicker new or repair the old part quicker , and will this be a filler free repair. I have done similar but with lashings of filler
So far progress has been pretty fast. I spend more time rounding up tools and setting up for the video than I do actually working. At the most I have about five hours so far in actual working on the damaged shroud. I'll try to finish it the best I can.
glad to hear i am not the only one wandering around the workshop all day rounding up tools just to do a few minutes work with what time is left in the day, and its not like i don't put things away when finished, they just seem to disappear when i am not looking.
I wonder how much Birmabrite was used in cars as this Healy?. I have worked on a Triumph Renown with alloy door skins which were hard to the point of being almost brittle .These were made at time when the UK had little steel supplies and piles of left over sheet alloy from WW2 air craft manufacture. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birmabright
Hmm, I 've never asked my aluminum supplier if they had 3003 -0 I'll try, thanks! I do have a small electric heat treating oven that I bought for $100.00 30 years ago, so yes I do heat treat some of my tools. I also have case hardened some tools.
@@butziporsche8646 I use the soot method too, but before I soot I take a wide magic marker and scribble a few lines across the area. Burn the soot off and the magic marker too and it will be perfectly annealed.
@@proshaper Many years ago I built some stuff out of old scrapped road signs and whatever alloy they are they, age harden like spring steel. When cutting on my Beverly B3, they would just chip apart instead of clean cuts. After annealing w/ oxy-acetylene, they cut like cheese. Reminds me of the stories of Ferrari bodywork hammered out of stolen signs that had remnants of the sign paint in the inside of fenders. I wonder how many of these have been over-restored and these artifacts removed?
Your skill will also be exhibited in how well the headlight hole fits to the headlight bezel without any “fat” showing… a dead giveaway for front shroud damage…
Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast. - no one cares how long it took Davinci to paint the Mona Lisa. The most inciteful thing I've heard in a long time is "We can't run across the finish line on this one". I'll write that down on the inside of my toolbox lid.
Those look like Lasting Pliers, either Witchers, possibly Union. #2’s or #3’s. That hole used to have a small hammer head for driving tacks. An early “multi-tool” 😬
I just spent hours on watching a man hammering on an old piece of aluminium…
But I loved it. Very interesting to see how a professional approaches a restoration like this. Thank you for keep on sharing these informative videos.
You & me both!! Dan H
thanks mark for staying late. you and jolene on the bad chad channel really get us in where we can see what we need to see.
Number 7 "P" word should be Perseverance....Love this project...
I love the idea of Wray and Andy having a chat - one talking about aluminum and the other aluminium.
This series should be titled the "Shroud of Schelin" because this panel has risen from the dead. Bless you.
Thanks Wray and Mark for continuing this series. I have enjoyed watch how the process progresses (more Ps) and the thought process. This channel deserves a larger audience. Thanks again
Take care
the fact that you are resurrecting a panel is just as informative as making a new one, my mother and i have both been watching and find it interesting in how you go about the process, thanks and please keep it up.
Wray. Really fun to watch. I'm getting worried since I'm starting to be able to anticipate your next move. So, I guess from now 'til next week Eric is replaced by derrick.
the Bob Ross of body work
I remember 50 years ago watching my uncle pound out the damage on an early 50's Renault convertible using a hammer and dollies. He learned the trade in the Air Force during WW2 fixing damaged planes.
Beautiful work with simple tools. Thanks for explaining the process so clearly.
Fantastic progress Wray, possible suggestion with these type of videos is at the end do a short "before" and "after" shot of each episode to mark the progress. Love the blooper outtakes,
We are learning, we'll get better.
I'm definitely enjoying this series! It's a shame the algorithm prefers to promote bodywork videos featuring some backyard barbarian stuffing rusty rocker panels with spray foam and beating out dents with a claw hammer. Your videos should be one of the first things that pops up when people search "How to do bodywork"
Love your work, Wray! It was great meeting you last Saturday. Hope to see you again soon!
Hello Wray,
Very interesting project. Really hits home. Thank you for sharing your skill. Also, thank you for the Rust 911 tip. Great stuff.
It looks like we have a new *P* word in the comments, *Pliers.* Also a lot of audience *Participation* educating us on what industry the pliers are from.
Happy New Year Wray, Mark, and everyone else.
Tonight I measured the headlight diameter on a 1962 Austin-Healey, right where your gauge went and it is 8 5/8". That car should have the same shroud as the one you are working on. Hopefully that will help.
Love the new "P" intro.
You got it going your way now.
Safety glasses ray ,protect your eyes.!
Newly produced aluminium is soft and it age hardens. If you have to form fab items, it helps if you can get recently produced metal. We learned to be pleased if we had to wait for delivery. Patience pays off in more ways than you expect.
I’m learning a lot from your videos.
Coming along, real nice now! This is top class entertainment! 👍😃
Here's another P-word; pursuance - the carrying out or pursuing of an action, plan, etc.
As usual, great content Wray - the repair logic, direction-of-attack, and metal-moving details are gold! Thank you!
Hi , dont miss out the bits you think are boring ,, these are the very details some of us need and love to see being done . I can beat things out with a big hammer close enough , but its that last finesse thats crucial .
Im surprised that you didnt weld it back into one piece early on ,, I probably would have , but its these little things that make every day a school day.
Welcome back. Mr "wray im not dead schelin "
Gotta have a lot of piss and vinegar!!! Thanks for sharing everything you've shared with us this year. There are a group of guys like me out here who just LOVE watch you share your craft. Cheers!!!
Thanks Wray. I would not have thought that aluminum potato chip you started with would become the shroud it is now. Very satisfying to watch the progress. Look forward to the next installment. Happy new year!
Nice to see the healey getting better the tool you have was once a cobblers streching tool the bit missing is a heel for leveridge
Hope you had a good Christmas Wray and Mark, nice to see the progress. you need to add Pain lol for those times when your thumb gets a little too far past the dolly! Looking forward to the E-type bonnet completion as well.
Looking forward to the rest of the series.
Hi Wray, for the shape of of the headlamp you could use any 7" headlamp bowl and chrome ring as I'd say probably 95% of British cars from the 50's to late 70's use the same size headlamp unit, might be closer in size than the card template. Loving the work.
Interesting note on Jensen, my shop recently did a restoration on a 1963 CV8. The body was all fiberglass except the doors which were aluminum!
Love the videos, keep em coming. Really enjoy the bloopers, those are great.
Really like this whole series working with the hand tools
Tell mark to take it easy going home.
Wray regarding the headlight opening if you have the headlight bucket from a MGB, Jag Mk1 or 2 or 150 they should all be the 10/32 bolt pattern to the body and would be pattern. Standard Lucas 7” headlight bucket I believe. I wonder if prayer 🙏🏻 should be at the top of list for the other 4 p’s.
Cheers
If anyone can make chicken soup out of feathers you are it. When I was in college in the late 60’s a guy at my fraternity had a Healey. A 100 series I think. It was aluminum and was so soft you would dare not lean on it. It would dent. I’m not surprised how workable this one is.
Deep joy.
Thx Wray made my Wednesday evening.
Getting closer now 👍👏👏
Excellent video very interesting thanks Wray
Hi Wray, I do believe those odd shaped pliers you have and tossed into the bucket are an old pair of lasting pincers. The threaded hole is for a replaceable hammer type head. The lasting pincers are used for making shoes to help stretch the leather around the last form. The pair you have may be Whitcher Union Pincers.
I have that same pair, with the head you mention, and now finally know what they are. Thanks!
I have a very similar pair with a non-removeable hammer head. They were my Grandfather's, who was a sheet metal worker. There is a manufacturer's mark on the side of the hammer head, but it's unreadable aside from a large number 2.
Great series i dont miss a video you do. Cheers
Great job doing the metal work
It's a pleasure .
Thanks for the heads up on the alloys. I just found some 1100 H14 which was unavailable for about 3 years. I build bike tanks and the annealed 1100 stretches further before crystallizing. Thanks for your tip on patience. Something often overlooked and possessed by real craftsmen.
Great video 👍love the fact you teach metal shaping and parenting and marriage guidance 😅,I came across aircraft aluminum called durallium in the UK tough stuff
Did a little bit of google searching on your pliers and I think they’re cobbler pliers, but I did find a company in Germany called Freund that makes similar pliers for bending metal like gutters and HVAC work. Speaking of HVAC, I use a few different tools like straight jaw pliers to help correct my flanges. Give them a nice squeeze and tap one of the jaws with a hammer and it looks really good with the benefit of not stretching out the metal too much. They’re not ideal for all situations, but they’ve helped me out a ton. As always I loved the video, and keep on rockin on, Wray!
LOL! I hope your daughter hasn't been turned off by the craft. At least she didn't sigh and roll her eyes like my son does when I ask him for help.
She is a singer see ruclips.net/video/BIzEqj78hfg/видео.html
Hi Wray, fantastic videos. When i was apprentice in the sixties we used 18 guage i think. I remember this being easy to work. Almost certainly manufactured in the U.K. I was going to mention the grille but did not want you to prove me wrong!!. I have a stripped shroud with grille still fitted if you want detailed pictures as it is not symetrical all round. Keep up the good work. David. U.K.
I have been doing body work since 1974. My wife can't understand how I can watch a guy pound on metal for an hr.
Hi Bob. That comment made me belly laugh!!!
God bless you Wray
I believe that is a farrier tongues/plyers for taking old shoes of the horse's hoof?
Starting to look 👀 great 👍
I am enjoying this series I have a 100/4 that the rear shroud has bee over worked some time in it's life and want to repair so this is very spot on for me. I think your pliers ar farriers pliers used in horse shoeing.
Barnsley and son Sheffield England make pliers like that they make shoe maker tools not cheap but really good
Ive only used 1050A aluminium over here in England. You can bend it with one thumb. Id like to try some other types to see how they work. Love the videos
I have learned to love the Chinese sourced 3003 H-14 which I have been getting from my suppliers. After shaping a panel it is very dent resistant. I do now anneal where I need to shrink or torture the metal into an extreme shape.
@@proshaper the dent resistance is a good feature. The 1050 is easily dented in my opinion. Ive also seen 1050 from the same supplier look completely different. The metal ive used is normally the same finish either side. One day some got delivered and it was almost polished looking on one side. I dont know why it was different but it was definitely the nicest id ever worked with and it was very bright which was a good thing also
Interesting talk on Al. Here in NZ my local supplier has ‘1200 H14’ always in stock, a well known coach builder (Tempero) close to me also uses it. Easy to work
It would be a good bit of information to know what type of aluminum everyone is using around the world. Also knowing what was used in the past would be helpful as well. The corner thumb bending test says a lot.
@@proshaper yes this stuff corner bends easy which has been helpful for me to learn. Would like to try out some of the stiffer grades in the future, especially for Landrover panels as largely flat need all the dent resistance the metal can provide
And PRACTICE
6 Ps, P words are powerful.
Those pliers look like cobblers ones. I have some but have a hammer bit on the back side
Does annealing take away the age hardening? I wonder if the road vibrations have actually work hardened it.
I didn't encounter any hardening in this aluminum shroud. The crumpled zones were relaxed with mild heat.
I never heard of 3103 in aircraft, 1100 is used a little bit in aircraft Stearman gear leg farings are made with 1100...alot of ww2 English aircraft used 5052.
I’d be willing to bet that the person that tucked this away way back when to save it never dreamed “saving it” would move much beyond maybe, someday, using the other half for a repair.
I wonder if it’s possible they’re watching, or have any idea..
I'm not sure if he is watching. I have to thank him for not scrapping all the stuff we bought from him. It is a treasure chest of possibility. Wait to you see the damaged Lomborghini hood.
Those funny pliers look like a cobbler's tool to me I think there's usually a hammer where that hole is
I noticed that you have your hand close to the head of the hammer. I assume that is to be more precise with where you hammer the aluminum?
I did that and I wasn't aware that I was. I guess I figured a lighter hit was needed. If a light hit or accumulated hits did not move the metal, then hit is harder.
Were all those panels originally shaped with dies on a press or were they shaped by hand?
JIM
Good question. I haven't stripped enough of the paint away yet to see if there are any hand made marks. From what I have read Jenson made them for Healey. Maybe someone knows the Healey history and will answer. I'll ask this question when I make another video in the series later today.
Do you ever use a bit of heat with aluminum to move it a bit easier?
You must not have watched the earlier episodes of the Healey shroud.
Do you ever use a shrinking hammer on aluminum? Not sure if you can or not. Second question is do you know anyone interested in buying some body hammers. I have around 100 and need to thin out my collection. I am in North Attleboro and not far from you.
Hi Bill, Anything that scars metal( shrinking hammers) I try not to use. Email me some pictures of the hammers you would like to sell. wray@proshaper.com or text 508 347 7749
No wife in the garage! She'd start telling you how you were doing things wrong!
The 8th "P" ....Pay Me!
Good one!
Could you make this part quicker new or repair the old part quicker , and will this be a filler free repair. I have done similar but with lashings of filler
So far progress has been pretty fast. I spend more time rounding up tools and setting up for the video than I do actually working. At the most I have about five hours so far in actual working on the damaged shroud. I'll try to finish it the best I can.
glad to hear i am not the only one wandering around the workshop all day rounding up tools just to do a few minutes work with what time is left in the day, and its not like i don't put things away when finished, they just seem to disappear when i am not looking.
@@Welder-y5x I swear most work is 90 percent logistics- moving stuff from one spot to another.
I wonder how much Birmabrite was used in cars as this Healy?. I have worked on a Triumph Renown with alloy door skins which were hard to the point of being almost brittle .These were made at time when the UK had little steel supplies and piles of left over sheet alloy from WW2 air craft manufacture. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birmabright
I used to use 3003-O, as per Ron Fournier, to build motorcycle tanks. Wray, have you ever hardened or case hardened any hammers?
Hmm, I 've never asked my aluminum supplier if they had 3003 -0 I'll try, thanks! I do have a small electric heat treating oven that I bought for $100.00 30 years ago, so yes I do heat treat some of my tools. I also have case hardened some tools.
@@proshaper I anneal the old fashioned way, acetylene soot and then burn it off.
@@butziporsche8646 I use the soot method too, but before I soot I take a wide magic marker and scribble a few lines across the area. Burn the soot off and the magic marker too and it will be perfectly annealed.
@@proshaper Many years ago I built some stuff out of old scrapped road signs and whatever alloy they are they, age harden like spring steel. When cutting on my Beverly B3, they would just chip apart instead of clean cuts. After annealing w/ oxy-acetylene, they cut like cheese. Reminds me of the stories of Ferrari bodywork hammered out of stolen signs that had remnants of the sign paint in the inside of fenders. I wonder how many of these have been over-restored and these artifacts removed?
39:16 сапожные щипцы, что б кожу натягивать на подошву.
👍
Think your special Healey pliers might be cobblers pliers with the hammer removed.
Antique Eagle Beak Pliers w/ Bell Poll Hammer
It’s ok Wray. Lots of us older guys have pee problems.
That P problem impacts me as well.
Jensen made all aluminium lorries cab and chassis
Your skill will also be exhibited in how well the headlight hole fits to the headlight bezel without any “fat” showing… a dead giveaway for front shroud damage…
Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast. - no one cares how long it took Davinci to paint the Mona Lisa. The most inciteful thing I've heard in a long time is "We can't run across the finish line on this one". I'll write that down on the inside of my toolbox lid.
And the inner half of the grill surround should be frosted silver painted. Not chrome… if exact original is desired.
👏👏👏👏👏
Those curved pliers are for cobbler and leather work
Thanks!
Those look like Lasting Pliers, either Witchers, possibly Union. #2’s or #3’s. That hole used to have a small hammer head for driving tacks.
An early “multi-tool” 😬
OOPS! I saw another video where you used heat.
Pop rivet, of course it was a Brit Neil Wylie 1916, we invented others stole.....
like comment subscribed
thoes pliers are farrier nail dresser...
The fact that your a little boring is what is holding you back.
And the eyebrow is stainless steel…. Polished stainless….
clickbait titles... rename this one AUSTON HEALEY SHROUD DANCING
You get a leak problem wray?!Unfuckybelievable!Lol