We only recorded half of what went with the deadline 😂 tried to get as much of the interesting bits for you as we went along. Nice to have a video diary of the light resto to go along with the car though!
There'll be more fabrication and welding in future episodes....sorry we had to cut that bit on this episode. Make sure you subscribe so you can see what else we get up to 👍
Miss Involvo'd said you should have left it as it was before the epoxy went on 😃 You could do a compilation of spraying cars, satisfying ASMR style video it's so nice to watch!
There was over 450 hours of work on this. The colour was the original factory colour. Infact what makes this car so special is that everything on this car is factory original. It's one of the best kept RS2000s in the country! Glad you enjoyed the episode 👍
Actually you are wrong, all Mk2 escorts among other models were all painted in DU Pont polyurethane acrylic 2 coat systems for both solid colours and metallic, It was a shoot out between two paint companies, RM- Inmont and DU Pont with the latter winning which brought about me training in warranty and accident reinstatement paintwork at Thatcham for Ford body work approval accreditation. 1974 was the last time Ford Europe used cellulose as a production line finish which was applied to Ford Cortina MK 3 estates, the colour was Olympic blue, just prior to this 30 escort MK 1' 1.3 popular were painted in the same colour for Manchester and west Mercia police forces. The only paint provided in cellulose after this time was touch up paints which continued that way for many many years.
The Paterons get all juicy numbers and hints and tips if they need it but if you send me a msg on Instagram @whiteland_restorations I'll send you a copy 😊
Great video again guys, I'm especially enjoying the painting content at the moment as this is something that 1/I've never done 2/Need to do soon. Sorry to sound nerdy, but some technical info would help me greatly. I've got a Satajet gun with 1.3 nozzle. I believe epoxy primer is a bit on the heavy side for this nozzle, but I'm hoping to get away with it. What set-up are you using there Lewis? Also, how are you doing the door frames? I'm debating whether to spray my car with or without doors. Pros are that the job is more even/consistent, cons are that the frames need painting separately and may have overspray. (sorry if this is covered in the next episode!)
Hi Steve. Regarding epoxy when I'm painting parts I tend to use a 1.3 jet and thin the epoxy down a little, maybe 15% thinners to get a nice even coverage (thin it to what works for you). What are you epoxying? Might be worth buying a cheap primer gun if you're doing a lot. We take panels off to paint 99% of the time unless it's an awkward colour that can change depending on orientation. You will see in the next episode but we take the doors off and mask up the shell and paint the shuts then. The frames get painted again after everything else is done with some careful masking and keying up! There's not much trouble with overspray when you do it in stages and mask up with good tape and plastic sheet 👍
@@WhitelandRestorations Thanks for the reply/info Lewis. Thinning the epoxy down is a good idea, especially as I don't really want to buy a second gun as I'm trying to keep costs down. It's just the one complete car I need to respray (at the moment), which I've never done before. RUclips is giving me lots of information though, and I've already epoxied a couple of doors which turned out quite well. I look forward to the next episode. Cheers 👍
Hey Steve, glad to help. As you're one of our loyal Patrons you can contact us anytime if you need some advice or info. Just msg us on social media and we'll do our best to help 👍
I watched the process and to be honest not how I do things, not criticizing though just noting the differences, no way would I have accepted welding up Kurt Ziebart application access holes, its this tech that has preserved this escort so well, and there is nothing to gain and only pitfalls. I never go near a restoration with anything other than Tig welder and a gas torch for lead stick solder loading I soda blast all repaints back to bare metal and I always use epoxy as a bare metal sealer because it is moisture proof not because it can also act as a barrier to old paint shrinkage as it softens from fresh solvent attack. I always completely strip vehicles and mount them to a spit, I always treat the reverse side of all repairs the same as the prominent side as they are equally prone to rusting, from experience the glues used on vinyl roofs always cause moisture pooling and hidden rust. Quite a bit of body filler in areas which is a huge no no for me, I rather persevere with panel beating and lead loading using just primers and stoppers to finish. The headlamp backing plate and mounting had rust between the joints and should have been separated and treated, I always preserve the look and place of factory spot welds. The satin black finish areas always had a satin finish line tape as a blend of substrates to soften the line. The cardinal rule is never use finishing polish and polymer type diamond coatings in a paint application area, silicone is a nightmare to eradicate once introduced.
Fantastic video.....a real education to me regarding the effort you went to with my car 👌👍
We only recorded half of what went with the deadline 😂 tried to get as much of the interesting bits for you as we went along. Nice to have a video diary of the light resto to go along with the car though!
@@WhitelandRestorations Completely agree!......love it 👍😎👌
Making a hole to repair a hole. Learned something again!
Sometimes you've got to make bigger holes! 😁
Wanted to see you fabricate and weld the panel that you put in the door sill!
There'll be more fabrication and welding in future episodes....sorry we had to cut that bit on this episode. Make sure you subscribe so you can see what else we get up to 👍
Brilliant, love the team work, execution and detail. A very useful resource.
Nice work wish I could weld like you 👍👍
It's all in the hips 😂
Very educational. Looks to be a fantastic job your doing as always.
Good work guys , I would definitely let you loose on mine if it ever needs it .
Thanks Steve! Glad you're enjoying the work 😊
outstanding work as always thankyou for the videos
Thank you very much! Glad you're enjoying the videos 😊
New to the channel, glad I found it!
Awesome! Glad you found us..... spread the word 😁
Really enjoyed the video, attention to detail and techniques used are second to none 👌 subscribed and look forward to the next one 👍
Thank you Ricky! Glad to have you here. Lots more projects to come!
Miss Involvo'd said you should have left it as it was before the epoxy went on 😃
You could do a compilation of spraying cars, satisfying ASMR style video it's so nice to watch!
It would of looked very 70s psychedelic😎
Next time we film a resto we're definitely going to throw in some asmr videos 👍
How many hours on the welding ???? And prepping. For paint. And is it the original factory colour. Looking good though well done
There was over 450 hours of work on this. The colour was the original factory colour. Infact what makes this car so special is that everything on this car is factory original. It's one of the best kept RS2000s in the country! Glad you enjoyed the episode 👍
@@WhitelandRestorations how much is the labour cost per hour in case I need a resto.
I worked at a local ford main dealer from 1977 to 1981 and it was cellulose paint that was used. I was a storekeeper.
Thanks for confirming that Alan. Think Ford's cellulose was a lot more stable and higher quality than what paint was on it when it came in.
Actually you are wrong, all Mk2 escorts among other models were all painted in DU Pont polyurethane acrylic 2 coat systems for both solid colours and metallic, It was a shoot out between two paint companies, RM- Inmont and DU Pont with the latter winning which brought about me training in warranty and accident reinstatement paintwork at Thatcham for Ford body work approval accreditation. 1974 was the last time Ford Europe used cellulose as a production line finish which was applied to Ford Cortina MK 3 estates, the colour was Olympic blue, just prior to this 30 escort MK 1' 1.3 popular were painted in the same colour for Manchester and west Mercia police forces. The only paint provided in cellulose after this time was touch up paints which continued that way for many many years.
Could u post the measurements you took ?
The Paterons get all juicy numbers and hints and tips if they need it but if you send me a msg on Instagram @whiteland_restorations I'll send you a copy 😊
Great video again guys, I'm especially enjoying the painting content at the moment as this is something that 1/I've never done 2/Need to do soon. Sorry to sound nerdy, but some technical info would help me greatly. I've got a Satajet gun with 1.3 nozzle. I believe epoxy primer is a bit on the heavy side for this nozzle, but I'm hoping to get away with it. What set-up are you using there Lewis? Also, how are you doing the door frames? I'm debating whether to spray my car with or without doors. Pros are that the job is more even/consistent, cons are that the frames need painting separately and may have overspray. (sorry if this is covered in the next episode!)
Hi Steve. Regarding epoxy when I'm painting parts I tend to use a 1.3 jet and thin the epoxy down a little, maybe 15% thinners to get a nice even coverage (thin it to what works for you). What are you epoxying? Might be worth buying a cheap primer gun if you're doing a lot. We take panels off to paint 99% of the time unless it's an awkward colour that can change depending on orientation. You will see in the next episode but we take the doors off and mask up the shell and paint the shuts then. The frames get painted again after everything else is done with some careful masking and keying up! There's not much trouble with overspray when you do it in stages and mask up with good tape and plastic sheet 👍
@@WhitelandRestorations Thanks for the reply/info Lewis. Thinning the epoxy down is a good idea, especially as I don't really want to buy a second gun as I'm trying to keep costs down. It's just the one complete car I need to respray (at the moment), which I've never done before. RUclips is giving me lots of information though, and I've already epoxied a couple of doors which turned out quite well. I look forward to the next episode. Cheers 👍
Hey Steve, glad to help. As you're one of our loyal Patrons you can contact us anytime if you need some advice or info. Just msg us on social media and we'll do our best to help 👍
@@WhitelandRestorations Cheers, hopefully won't need to bother you, but it's very much appreciated.
Hi where did you find it
Customer car that came in to us, not ours in afraid!
@@WhitelandRestorations hi looks in pretty good condition
I watched the process and to be honest not how I do things, not criticizing though just noting the differences, no way would I have accepted welding up Kurt Ziebart application access holes, its this tech that has preserved this escort so well, and there is nothing to gain and only pitfalls. I never go near a restoration with anything other than Tig welder and a gas torch for lead stick solder loading I soda blast all repaints back to bare metal and I always use epoxy as a bare metal sealer because it is moisture proof not because it can also act as a barrier to old paint shrinkage as it softens from fresh solvent attack. I always completely strip vehicles and mount them to a spit, I always treat the reverse side of all repairs the same as the prominent side as they are equally prone to rusting, from experience the glues used on vinyl roofs always cause moisture pooling and hidden rust. Quite a bit of body filler in areas which is a huge no no for me, I rather persevere with panel beating and lead loading using just primers and stoppers to finish. The headlamp backing plate and mounting had rust between the joints and should have been separated and treated, I always preserve the look and place of factory spot welds. The satin black finish areas always had a satin finish line tape as a blend of substrates to soften the line. The cardinal rule is never use finishing polish and polymer type diamond coatings in a paint application area, silicone is a nightmare to eradicate once introduced.