Found this channel recently and it's been helpful for helping me learn about old CRT's! I'm getting me a JVC TM-150 PSN uhh.. PVM CRT(?) soon-ish. Wondering if this old CRT from the late 80's will be worth the price of just €40!
Great vid, nice to see those PVMs still doing their thing. What caps do you recommend for a PSU and chassis refurb? Also, what is Sony's rationale for their anode discharge method? To prevent scratching the aquadag? I find it pretty dangerous, and some anode caps really can't be released by simple squeezing/pinching, but rather by pushing them sideways. which can cause them to uncontrollably pop off and expose the charged contacts.
have you seen those jvc 9 inch pvms that CRT is black and white and there is a glass in font of it wired into the mother board that makes whole thing colorful one of youtubers made a video about it
May I have some advice? My SONY TV has convergence in all four corners... I think I'll have to get my hand at those inside magnets to fix it, the Service Menu did absolutely nothing... So... What can I put on my hand to avoid an electrical shock? As I assume I'll have to fix those magnets while the TV is tuned on 😦
It's always good to make sure your cables are in good condition before doing it. I'm not saying you have to do it this way. The other method is still effective, it's just not the way Sony wanted.
RETRO TECH, what Flyback transformer is stepping up the B+ 130 vdc voltage to 19kv or 30kv? The flyback trans also outputs High voltage to the Focus and Screen for the CRT tube?
Pulling the anode cap off with one hand and having the discharge tool in the other hand would seem to me the best way of getting to the HEART of any insulation failures, if you get what I'm saying. I don't like high voltage repairs but when I do, I keep one hand behind my back until I know the CRT is discharged. Thumbs up for the video, very informative! But thumbs down to Sony.
I've got Sony pvm 14M2E , was working great and never been opened, however for some reason I was running my VGA 15khz signal via a arcadeforge umsa (scart to vga). Whilst I booted the computer it was displaying all correctly on the pvm and then suddenly I heard a surge sound and the tube displayed a electric fuzzy line on the top and the monitor just shut off. Now it doesn't even turn on. I checked the mains fuse which seems fine. So I went ahead and opened the panel to see if there was anything obvious and I could not see anything burnt. At the moment I'm a bit on the fence about discharging the tube. If I do go ahead and discharge using this method I'll see if replacing the fuse inside helps. Not sure what could have caused this but any ideas or helpfull advice would be greatly appreciated.
I need to get a 19 inch Sony out of my house, I have the back off, and am willing to de-spark it. But it is so heavy, I want to break the glass and remove it in pieces. It is too heavy for me to lift and too bulky to get it through my path. So, if I break the seal on the tube, can I put something over the end so that the gases (or whatever is inside) to not harm my bird? Maybe a heavy blanket? Then run the air filter system for half a day? Thanks for your help in advance!
No way in HELL am I touching that cap or cable until it is discharged. Maybe when they were new. What about discharging caps? Is that not necessary? What if you just powered it off a second ago? I heard someone say they clip something to the caps to tie them together or to ground because of dielectric absorption? How long until the anode cap can recharge itself? I want to be as safe as possible.
I noticed that discharge technique in the manual of a Sony VGA monitor I'm recapping. I assume its so idiots don't destroy the metal connector by roughly jamming a screwdriver into it. I'll still use the screwdriver. I know what the connector feels like when prodded.
I bet those manuals didn’t take into account that someone would bother servicing it 20 years later. When it has a brittle possibly damaged yoke. If you value your health wear some gloves. This is like telling someone who finds a hundred year old gun that has been laying around to go try firing it.
A good practice to adhere to is put one hand behind your back when working around it when its live. But how I know you haven't worked on many of these if any, is because the yolks don't go brittle. Not in the 30 or so I have worked on.
Found this channel recently and it's been helpful for helping me learn about old CRT's!
I'm getting me a JVC TM-150 PSN uhh.. PVM CRT(?) soon-ish. Wondering if this old CRT from the late 80's will be worth the price of just €40!
Quite ingenious Steve. Always glad to see you doing what you do best to keep these units running. 8^)
Anthony..
My PVM is tired and dull compared to anything you show on your channel and no matter how many times I open it up... I'm coping.
Great vid, nice to see those PVMs still doing their thing. What caps do you recommend for a PSU and chassis refurb? Also, what is Sony's rationale for their anode discharge method? To prevent scratching the aquadag? I find it pretty dangerous, and some anode caps really can't be released by simple squeezing/pinching, but rather by pushing them sideways. which can cause them to uncontrollably pop off and expose the charged contacts.
Update: the vid mentions Nichicon caps. Thanks!
have you seen those jvc 9 inch pvms that CRT is black and white and there is a glass in font of it wired into the mother board that makes whole thing colorful one of youtubers made a video about it
May I have some advice?
My SONY TV has convergence in all four corners...
I think I'll have to get my hand at those inside magnets to fix it, the Service Menu did absolutely nothing...
So...
What can I put on my hand to avoid an electrical shock? As I assume I'll have to fix those magnets while the TV is tuned on 😦
Your CRT discharge tool is connected where? Ground (earth) terminal on wall outlet? Or?
Just the metal frame on the CRT is all you need.
@@RetroTechUSA Hmm, it's so illogical. Wouldn't it be better to connect to earth terminal on wall outlet?
@@suadcokljat1045 No. Discharging a tube is like shorting a capacitor.
discharging like that what if the insulation is damaged?
It's always good to make sure your cables are in good condition before doing it. I'm not saying you have to do it this way. The other method is still effective, it's just not the way Sony wanted.
Fair enough. I always struggle to get them off the way the service menus show you how to do it.
Its the tube that holds charge over time like a capacitor, not the FBT.
RETRO TECH, what Flyback transformer is stepping up the B+ 130 vdc voltage to 19kv or 30kv? The flyback trans also outputs High voltage to the Focus and Screen for the CRT tube?
thank you for the video steve, do you drain the PSU caps before recapping? if so by what method? thank you.
nice shoes
Pulling the anode cap off with one hand and having the discharge tool in the other hand would seem to me the best way of getting to the HEART of any insulation failures, if you get what I'm saying. I don't like high voltage repairs but when I do, I keep one hand behind my back until I know the CRT is discharged. Thumbs up for the video, very informative! But thumbs down to Sony.
We don't see the links you mention in your video
There are a few links in the description and I tagged other related links in the Video's cards.
I've got Sony pvm 14M2E , was working great and never been opened, however for some reason I was running my VGA 15khz signal via a arcadeforge umsa (scart to vga). Whilst I booted the computer it was displaying all correctly on the pvm and then suddenly I heard a surge sound and the tube displayed a electric fuzzy line on the top and the monitor just shut off. Now it doesn't even turn on. I checked the mains fuse which seems fine. So I went ahead and opened the panel to see if there was anything obvious and I could not see anything burnt. At the moment I'm a bit on the fence about discharging the tube. If I do go ahead and discharge using this method I'll see if replacing the fuse inside helps. Not sure what could have caused this but any ideas or helpfull advice would be greatly appreciated.
I would start with the usual suspect, the power supply.
Can you chuck a link in the description for the convergence tool please? cheers.
I need to get a 19 inch Sony out of my house, I have the back off, and am willing to de-spark it. But it is so heavy, I want to break the glass and remove it in pieces. It is too heavy for me to lift and too bulky to get it through my path. So, if I break the seal on the tube, can I put something over the end so that the gases (or whatever is inside) to not harm my bird? Maybe a heavy blanket?
Then run the air filter system for half a day? Thanks for your help in advance!
19" 🤣
Try picking up a 32"
Do you sell the capacitor kits ?
what I would call the kamikaze method
Whoa at 9:00 -- is it ok to lift a tube by the neck with just one hand? Nothing I'd want to try with a larger one... :^O
No way in HELL am I touching that cap or cable until it is discharged. Maybe when they were new.
What about discharging caps? Is that not necessary? What if you just powered it off a second ago? I heard someone say they clip something to the caps to tie them together or to ground because of dielectric absorption? How long until the anode cap can recharge itself? I want to be as safe as possible.
The 1 dislike didn’t ground his screwdriver
I noticed that discharge technique in the manual of a Sony VGA monitor I'm recapping. I assume its so idiots don't destroy the metal connector by roughly jamming a screwdriver into it. I'll still use the screwdriver. I know what the connector feels like when prodded.
So basically very lightly slip it in and touch. (I figured that was how to do it, since my IBM has the same instructions)
i thought you will make pvm from scratch
I bet those manuals didn’t take into account that someone would bother servicing it 20 years later. When it has a brittle possibly damaged yoke. If you value your health wear some gloves. This is like telling someone who finds a hundred year old gun that has been laying around to go try firing it.
A good practice to adhere to is put one hand behind your back when working around it when its live. But how I know you haven't worked on many of these if any, is because the yolks don't go brittle. Not in the 30 or so I have worked on.
las cruces new mexico area, anyone interested in RGB modding a 40" set for me?
that G board is a real bitch, I ripped up about 5 pads, and I was being very gentle... Guess it was the heat or something