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Cathode Ray Tube CRT Monitor Safety - How to not get Hurt!
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
- Thanks for checking out my video. I left some links at the end of past safety videos. Let me know what you think.
#retrogaming #gamersunite #gaming #snes #supernintendo #arcade #screenshot #digitalart #scanlines #oc #tv #crt #surreal #art #artwork #games #sony #videogames #vidya #pvm #trinitron #240p #raster #konami #sega #rgb #sonypvm #sonybvm #safety
When replacing Sony CRTs, I found that carefully matching up the distances between an element in the neck (pick one) and the yoke, will save you a bunch of mucking about with geometry.
I'm disappointed though that he didn't demonstrate using the discharge tool he made.
Thank you so much for making this video. I feel a lot more comfortable about trying to make a yoke adjustment knowing these things. I was just never too sure about how many danger zones there were inside one of these aside from the anode cup and cable which I suppose is kinda obvious.
This is the best retro channel ever. This stuff is Gold.
Thanks so much for making these videos, Steve! I've been trying to learn how to calibrate an old PVM and I've relied on your videos a ton.
I would like to see a vid about how the image gets affected when the yoke is too close/far from the tube or not evenly pressed against the tube. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!
I would also add that if you plan on working on these in depth (like adjusting a yoke while live) not simply adjusting pots or rings a isolation transformer would be a good idea. Many service manuals for consumer tvs state you need one since it was cheaper to make them without it.
A lot of these pvms/higher end stuff and quite a few arcade cabinets already have an isolation transformer built in.
Just make sure you get one that has two prongs. I believe they call it a Technicians Isolation transformer. A lot of the current ones are three prongs and link neutral to ground on the output which isn't what you want.
Here are two videos that explain why
ruclips.net/video/3rvEdHyAd2k/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/XBsQ3sZ45Fk/видео.html
I would also mention discharging those big filter capacitors would be a good idea too. Those can hold a big charge even after discharging the anode depending upon the model.
hahhha the kung pow dude
Always a pleasure Steve. Thank you for what you do. 8^)
Anthony..
Great video. I'm currently starting to venture into crt repair so useful stuff in this video. Thanks.
When I was a kid, I made some cool arcs between the anode cap and chassis. It made a lot of ozone.
Always in the mood to see Steve doing what he does best. The dude is sooo awesome!! 8^)
Anthony..
Thanks Anthony!
Such a great vid, man. I do need to work on my CRT. A corner is warped and the yoke is tilted. But i do want to make sure I’m safe.
Appreciate your Videos, just finished recapping my PVM :-) It was quite a learning curve but felt great after all was done
While working on a CRT, is there any reason you'd ever not start by discharging? Seems pretty logical that that'd be something you'd always want to do. This was very informational, thanks.
Not always. There are some adjustments you have to make internally while it's running. However it is good practice if you are new to working on CRTs to discharge the tube.
@@RetroTechUSA what about discharging caps?
@@RastaJediX if they are big sure, discharge them too, if you want to be extra careful, discharge smaller ones too, safety first ~ Anatoly Dyatlov
Does the ground need plugged into a wall outlet during discharge? If not, how does the chassis ground reach the earth?
@@kruskotv1311 💀
I've been soldering older video game consoles, installing chips and other modifications. What other experience do you recommend I gain before jumping into CRT repairs and mods? It really is a passionate curiosity of mine. Thanks for all the info!
Thanks, that is very helpful.
I nonetheless read that the most dangerous part is ultimately not the cathode buy the high voltage capacitors.
How can we be sure they are really flushed even after a power on/power off cycle?
Caps can be dangerous if the hold over 48 volts or have a high capacity where they store high amounts of energy. The main board doesn't have any caps that are dangerous for the most part. The power supply area is a different story, but either way the flyback and anode are way more hazardous than any of the small caps inside. Thanks
Thank you. good video
Does earthing work the same?
I've already seen tutorials on RUclips (yours are quite good) but I'm making sure I comprehend more than the big picture of this. PS. I'm quite aware of voltage leakages, so I thought this whole discharging maneuver should be performed by touching the flyback's pins instead of the rubber suction cup part.
Great video!
I’d like to work my way up to being able to work on my own crts, but I’m not experienced or knowledged enough. What would be a start to that?
Could anyone please tell me what are the risks when someone is hitting on the CRT screen hard with the palm of his hand, when it is on and running?
Blast City Arcade CRT btw, (fighting game rage).
Trying to get my friend to stop abuse his stuff, but also want to know if he is putting ppl next to him in danger by being violent on a old screen.
This is extremely dangerous and he should stop that straight away. CRTs are large glass tubes with high voltage and high vacuum inside. They can implode and send glass shards in every direction. So yeah, don't.
Is there a way to find out how to get into a Service Menu for Sony Triniton KV C2911 D? I have tried multiple button combos but no success. My issue is when i hook up my consoles with a RGB signal the screen alignment ist off slightly to the left a few cm. Is there an easy fix to this because in some games you cant see enemies and stuff until its too late and kinda bugs? Any help appreciated.
When making adjustments to the settings on the inside of a lower end PVM, would you recommend discharging the monitor and then making the adjustments while the monitor is off?
Hi I just picked up a Panasonic 2002 ct off the street and was looking online about it. I’ve been hearing that CRTs are dangerous and had no clue. Can a CRT explode while Im using it? Or is it when you take it apart?
thank you for this videos, i have 2 pvm to repair,
Excellent video, I would like to add Spanish subtitles if possible. Just LMK
Thanks, sure you can add subtitles I think through youtube.
@@RetroTechUSA I believe so, I will check later to see if there's an option to do so
Great video! Question: So what kind of screwdriver would you recommend if you need to adjust the pots near the flyback? There seems to be like no room to use a screwdriver in that area. A long bendy one or a short one?
I don't have a great rec. yet. I was hoping to have some 1 inch plastic screw driver tips to be made on a 3d printer or something. I'm still working on that. Mostly I have to adjust it with my fingers currently.
9:16 what are those clear plastic wheels on the top of the yoke cover?
I believe those might be magnets for adjusting geometry. Usually if I'm digging this rabbit hole, I try to RTFM before I get to deep.
Not sure if you’re still active. But I’m trying to fix a crt with a busted vhs player. (Tapes play for a few seconds and stop, and tape won’t eject.) Is it worth it to try and fix it myself or am I better off just buying an external vcr?
Discharge the EHT and leave a shorting link in place
This is a great video. I do have a question concerning an older television issue. The TV in question is a Zenith Sentry 2 from around 1992. The original chasis developed a short where the final moments made the TV all green on the screen at very low brightness; no sound; shrunk picture and then it finally popped. In looking at the inside on the neck board, it appeared that a capacitor had shorted out, also the pins on the tube are a bluish color. Rather than trying to repair that part; I did manage to get full replacement chasis of a similar type but the ground hook is different on the replacement chasis. Its not a huge clip but rather a smaller one and the chasis is stereo. The main board is mounted in an exact plastic frame like the old chasis but how do I connect the CRT grounding points safely? All connections on the chasis seem to be the same since it is a similar/upgraded Zenith Sentry 2 board. The ground lead is the confusing part; and also disconnecting the old lead. The anode cap is well known so that's not an issue there. The set has not worked for almost a year so it was never attempted to try the power after it popped. Please help.
Thanks.
Gary
I know this is an old comment but if it was just a shorted cap i would just repace it instade of thorwing away chassis that could be easly fixed
I want to clean the dust out of a CRT using canned air and a vacuum hose, will this be safe after letting the TV sit for a few days to discharge as long as I avoid touching the high voltage areas?
Hi,
All rings set are universal,just use a set with same diameter,that's seems logic,right?
I will check my convergence on arcade,but my rings are glued and one is brocken...so,I will use an other set.
Thanks
if you let the tube alone for 1 week its supposed to be totally discharged? looks a good way to inspect that with safety.
useful!
Sony VX Magna Colour
If a TV has been sitting in a garage for years without being turned on, could it still store some voltage in the CRT and be dangerous?
**{ I · "SECOND" · °THIS-QUESTION ! )** €¥£ ^
? What was this video about ?