I'm still confused as to the best sequence for replacing floors and sills vis-a-vis sandblasting and removal from frame after hearing you say you wish you had blasted it before welding. My 59 (in need of new sills and floors) is down to a bare tub still attached to the frame; how would you recommend I proceed given that there's really nothing holding the front and back of the car together besides the frame?
There are two methods I found when I had the same questions. 1. cut the car in half front to back and restore that way. 2. weld up bracing to hold the car together. I went with #2 because I couldn't imagine trying to reconnect the front and back. You can see the first brace we made in episode 2. It mounted to the door hinge and latch points. We ended up welding a second brace in when the floors and rails came out.
Before you weld the rear valance back on solid, make sure you fit the rear fenders so that you can match the contour at the rear. Keep up the good work!
THANKS for that tip. I have a bit of a distraction project this week. Back to the welding soon. My order of operations plan is to fix the small wheel arch pin holes, gas tank deck holes, closing panels under the trunk floor, the horizontal bottom piece under the tire well, install the new floor, (insert install rear fenders here), then fit the rear valance.
I'm still confused as to the best sequence for replacing floors and sills vis-a-vis sandblasting and removal from frame after hearing you say you wish you had blasted it before welding. My 59 (in need of new sills and floors) is down to a bare tub still attached to the frame; how would you recommend I proceed given that there's really nothing holding the front and back of the car together besides the frame?
There are two methods I found when I had the same questions. 1. cut the car in half front to back and restore that way. 2. weld up bracing to hold the car together. I went with #2 because I couldn't imagine trying to reconnect the front and back. You can see the first brace we made in episode 2. It mounted to the door hinge and latch points. We ended up welding a second brace in when the floors and rails came out.
Ok, so sill replacement and door gap checks etc can take place (maybe MUST take place?) with the body off the frame?
@@patrickalley492 I’m pretty sure I had the body on the frame when doing door gap testing. Body and frame separated many times during the process.
Before you weld the rear valance back on solid, make sure you fit the rear fenders so that you can match the contour at the rear. Keep up the good work!
THANKS for that tip. I have a bit of a distraction project this week. Back to the welding soon. My order of operations plan is to fix the small wheel arch pin holes, gas tank deck holes, closing panels under the trunk floor, the horizontal bottom piece under the tire well, install the new floor, (insert install rear fenders here), then fit the rear valance.
watch out for molten metal sparks adhering to the glass screens on the car next to where you are working
Yeah we have some spark blankets that need better use