Depend on demand we manufacture our anchors in batches, for a specific 60 anchors batch made at the beginning of January, our regular galvanizing facility was shut down due to the Covid-19 pandemic, because of having many backorders that were starting to pile up we have decided to send the anchors to be galvanized in another facility, Steeve got his Viking 10 and 20 anchors from this batch. While opening some sample boxes we have found out that about 20% of the anchors might have these flaking issues on some spots on some corners of the steel, same as the ones found by steeve. Since we are galvanizing our anchors to have 100-120-micron coating thickness, there is still enough Zinc left in case of flaking, and since galvanizing already galvanized anchors is a complicated process we have decided to continue shipping from this batch of anchors to our customers, and in case, some spots of rust will develop in a year or so, we will replace the anchor or the relevant part with a new one at no cost. All of you, please take care and stay safe.
Seems like the right choice. If there is any reduction in the service life of the galvanization it will not be too bad, and people would rather just have their anchors delivered rather than wait for them.
This is getting more and more crazy! When I find myself on a weekly basis looking forward to watch a guy sinking a camera to record anchors behaviour… I’m probably becoming almost as nuts as you Steve - and I like it. Excellent work and your presentations are constantly evolving. Lovely animation! 🦀
Flaking in galvanizing, as shown is almost always due to over-thick zinc, and that is either caused by too long immersion time (rare), or the chemistry of the steel. At certain levels of %Si and %P, the alloying reaction of galvanizing is accelerated, causing thicker coatings. In the thickness of steel of an anchor, a target coating thickness would be about 60-100 microns (1 micron = 0.001mm) or nearly 0.1mm. But with the chemistry as above thickness can come to 300-500 microns (u). At that thickness delamination between the different phases of alloy can happen. Notice that there's a coating still underneath after a flake is off- that is thin (perhaps 10-15u), but is about 90%Zn 10%Fe alloy. The surface of the galvanizing is about 98%Zn when shiny, and 95%Zn when dull. Lower layers are higher in Fe. The choice of steel chemistry is sometimes a compromise between aiming to get the best galvanizing thickness and the mechanical properties required of the steel. That flaking is made worse by relatively sharp 90 degree edges, as they're more susceptible to impact damage initiating the flaking. A R1mm radius on these edges would reduce that somewhat.
It seems you are saying the Viking would still have a thin protective layer of galvanising left after the thick flake has fallen off. Would this thinner remaining galvanised layer be thick enough to prevent rusting for years to come?
I just noticed that the Viking is the first roll bar anchor to perform very well in the sandy mud veer test! I wonder if this is because of the anti-mud accumulation design, the geometries of the shank or the larger roll bar allowing mud to pass through more easily. Hmmm. It will be very interesting to see if the larger Viking performs equally well.
The big downside for me is Viking does not have a Canadian distributor. It costs close to $200 to ship it and you can expect to pay import duties after that.
What is the angle of veer? I would like to be sure my vessel doesn’t move more than 3 boat lengths or 60’ so over 12 hours >1’/min means it’s not holding
Steve, thanks. I went with the Ex-cel because I like that 26lb range for my Erickson 29 sailboat. Viking went from 21 to 37lb. I'm going with extra chain for cruising ... so should be perfect. Appreciate all you hard work!
There aren’t any 1s or 2s in your chart in any substrate or test condition for the Viking - a rarity amongst anchors, at least smallish weight anchors. Seems there is no obvious Achilles heal to the Viking which is reassuring. I expected the Spade to win in this anchor size range. Interesting and impressive.
I know you don't share your recommendations too often, but I have a question for you. I ordered the 21 lb Viking 10 for my 6500 lb 26 ft boat. However it's been a couple months and it's still going to be another month. The Mantis m1 25 lb is too big for my boat as the shank will hit my windows. I'm unsure if I should wait for the Viking 10 or get a smaller mantis 17 lb. I have several trips coming up and need an anchor.
Both would be good choices, but there is no Question that the 21lb. Viking will be superior to the 17lb. Mantus M1. If you will be in anchoring in light(ish) conditions, or in well protected anchorages, or in perfect seabeds, then the smaller Mantus should be fine. Missing out on a trip sucks. Tough decision.
Just curious, I wonder how it would perform without the roll bar? I ask this because many powerboats have an anchor pulpit that would work with the roll bar (much like how Mantus made the M2 with no roll bar). What are your thoughts or have you tried that?
I have not yet tested the Viking (or Mantus M1) with the rollbar removed. I strongly recommend that people always use the anchor with the rollbar installed because the anchor will not self-right if it becomes inverted.
I believe the beer can opener is to allow you to retrieve the anchor with a retrieval ring that you slide along the rode and onto the fluke and pull in reverse, with the notch being a place for the ring to catch.
Their web site has a great graphic on this! It's to grab a loop-chain that you lower down the main anchor line, on its own line, to grab this can-opener thing and then pull on that line in the opposite direction from the main anchor line.
Well, I wanted a Viking 10 for my boat, but none available in the US and likely not for a while. The Ukraine war must be killing production. Guess I'll have to do Mantus M2.
@@flygoodwin I have a 35lb I kept from my last boat, 15,000lb 30' boat. It's too much for my new 25, 6,000lb boat. I did like my anchor, so another mantus will work. The M2 performs better than the M1 doesn't it? What is your logic? I love your videos!
@@serpa4serpa433 In some seabeds, the M2 is phenomenal. In other seabeds (like Soft Mud) the M2 is among the least performing anchors.. Note that the Soft Mud seabed has very low holding capacity no matter which anchor is used. There is a good argument for choosing the anchor that does the best - in the worst seabed. An M1 (or Viking) is vastly better than an M2 in Soft Mud.
This is an excerpt of an email from Viking Anchor dated December 12, 2022. "Although we had suffered from a lack of products and slow-coming supplies we have managed to still get our products and supply them to our customers with minimum delays. Overall, we feel that while facing the circumstances we did ok. We all wish that this awful war situation will end soon"
This anchor is so badly galvanized it should not even get a 1!! I have had mine 6 months and only used 5 times in Dutch mud (Markerzee). I now have sailed to France and had some salt wash on it (NO anchoring yet!) and it’s corroding all over the place!! Having raised my concerns with Izi from Viking about the low rating here he reassured me that those issues had been resolved and should I have problems they would address them…. Once I send them pictures of the non anchoring related corrosion - his response was; that they were ‘contact related’!!! Yes, contact with a grinder post delivery as I proved by fotos I send him at point of unpacking the thing. Very unprofessional and sorry - might be a good anchor albeit the arch is very fragile / flexible, the quality of finish sucks and is way substandard. It even rusts in the bow roller 😂😂😂
Depend on demand we manufacture our anchors in batches, for a specific 60 anchors batch made at the beginning of January, our regular galvanizing facility was shut down due to the Covid-19 pandemic, because of having many backorders that were starting to pile up we have decided to send the anchors to be galvanized in another facility, Steeve got his Viking 10 and 20 anchors from this batch.
While opening some sample boxes we have found out that about 20% of the anchors might have these flaking issues on some spots on some corners of the steel, same as the ones found by steeve.
Since we are galvanizing our anchors to have 100-120-micron coating thickness, there is still enough Zinc left in case of flaking, and since galvanizing already galvanized anchors is a complicated process we have decided to continue shipping from this batch of anchors to our customers, and in case, some spots of rust will develop in a year or so, we will replace the anchor or the relevant part with a new one at no cost.
All of you, please take care and stay safe.
Seems like the right choice. If there is any reduction in the service life of the galvanization it will not be too bad, and people would rather just have their anchors delivered rather than wait for them.
What a great initiative. Fully trustworthy and experimentally sound.
This is getting more and more crazy! When I find myself on a weekly basis looking forward to watch a guy sinking a camera to record anchors behaviour… I’m probably becoming almost as nuts as you Steve - and I like it. Excellent work and your presentations are constantly evolving. Lovely animation! 🦀
Flaking in galvanizing, as shown is almost always due to over-thick zinc, and that is either caused by too long immersion time (rare), or the chemistry of the steel. At certain levels of %Si and %P, the alloying reaction of galvanizing is accelerated, causing thicker coatings. In the thickness of steel of an anchor, a target coating thickness would be about 60-100 microns (1 micron = 0.001mm) or nearly 0.1mm. But with the chemistry as above thickness can come to 300-500 microns (u). At that thickness delamination between the different phases of alloy can happen. Notice that there's a coating still underneath after a flake is off- that is thin (perhaps 10-15u), but is about 90%Zn 10%Fe alloy. The surface of the galvanizing is about 98%Zn when shiny, and 95%Zn when dull. Lower layers are higher in Fe. The choice of steel chemistry is sometimes a compromise between aiming to get the best galvanizing thickness and the mechanical properties required of the steel. That flaking is made worse by relatively sharp 90 degree edges, as they're more susceptible to impact damage initiating the flaking. A R1mm radius on these edges would reduce that somewhat.
It seems you are saying the Viking would still have a thin protective layer of galvanising left after the thick flake has fallen off. Would this thinner remaining galvanised layer be thick enough to prevent rusting for years to come?
@@MrAthlon4800 Simple answer to that is: less years. The zinc just wears down over time. Even some high-zinc paints behave the same.
Thanks Geoff for that informative and interesting post, much appreciated.
I really liked the funny cartoon at the end of the video... super cute 😊
Sunday morning in Sydney, bit of a hangover from a good party last night, coffee made, anchoring video. Life is good.
Another great video, Steve. Many thanks and I'm looking forward to seeing the M2 perform.
Awesome videos
Excited to see mantus m2 results as I am waiting to buy it till I see results
Thanks again for your time on these videos
Great info. Great outro! Thanks.
I just noticed that the Viking is the first roll bar anchor to perform very well in the sandy mud veer test! I wonder if this is because of the anti-mud accumulation design, the geometries of the shank or the larger roll bar allowing mud to pass through more easily. Hmmm. It will be very interesting to see if the larger Viking performs equally well.
I’m buying a couple of these anchors
The big downside for me is Viking does not have a Canadian distributor. It costs close to $200 to ship it and you can expect to pay import duties after that.
We always het hammered here for duties or shipping 😒
What is the angle of veer? I would like to be sure my vessel doesn’t move more than 3 boat lengths or 60’ so over 12 hours >1’/min means it’s not holding
Hi where did you buy the Viking anchor? All I can find is straight from Viking wiring them the money to over seas. Thank you for all your research 👍
All three of the Viking anchors that I have tested were sent direct from Viking.
Steve, thanks. I went with the Ex-cel because I like that 26lb range for my Erickson 29 sailboat. Viking went from 21 to 37lb. I'm going with extra chain for cruising ... so should be perfect. Appreciate all you hard work!
There aren’t any 1s or 2s in your chart in any substrate or test condition for the Viking - a rarity amongst anchors, at least smallish weight anchors. Seems there is no obvious Achilles heal to the Viking which is reassuring. I expected the Spade to win in this anchor size range. Interesting and impressive.
Awesome!
I know you don't share your recommendations too often, but I have a question for you. I ordered the 21 lb Viking 10 for my 6500 lb 26 ft boat. However it's been a couple months and it's still going to be another month. The Mantis m1 25 lb is too big for my boat as the shank will hit my windows. I'm unsure if I should wait for the Viking 10 or get a smaller mantis 17 lb. I have several trips coming up and need an anchor.
The shank will hit my windless not my windows...
Check for a typo in your second sentence. Did you mean to say 10 kg instead of 10 lb?
@@flygoodwin thanks fixed it meant to say 21lb
Both would be good choices, but there is no Question that the 21lb. Viking will be superior to the 17lb. Mantus M1. If you will be in anchoring in light(ish) conditions, or in well protected anchorages, or in perfect seabeds, then the smaller Mantus should be fine. Missing out on a trip sucks. Tough decision.
Will we find out next week what the crab did with the anchor? 🦀
The artist has informed me that we will indeed learn the fate of the anchor.
Just curious, I wonder how it would perform without the roll bar? I ask this because many powerboats have an anchor pulpit that would work with the roll bar (much like how Mantus made the M2 with no roll bar). What are your thoughts or have you tried that?
I have not yet tested the Viking (or Mantus M1) with the rollbar removed. I strongly recommend that people always use the anchor with the rollbar installed because the anchor will not self-right if it becomes inverted.
Have they improved their galvanizing since the making of this video?
I do not know.
Steve, Can supporters download the spreadsheets? Screen capture works but then requires typing everything in...
Not at this time, John.
Any suggestion about the purpose of that particular shape of the shank near the fluke? Seems a giant beer opener ;-)
I believe the beer can opener is to allow you to retrieve the anchor with a retrieval ring that you slide along the rode and onto the fluke and pull in reverse, with the notch being a place for the ring to catch.
That’s what I was guessing too. Thanks!
Their web site has a great graphic on this! It's to grab a loop-chain that you lower down the main anchor line, on its own line, to grab this can-opener thing and then pull on that line in the opposite direction from the main anchor line.
What’s a roll bar doing on an anchor?! Chop it off !!! 😁
Well, I wanted a Viking 10 for my boat, but none available in the US and likely not for a while. The Ukraine war must be killing production. Guess I'll have to do Mantus M2.
While the Mantus M2 is a very high performer in many seabeds, the Mantus M1 is arguably more well rounded and a closer substitute to a Viking.
@@flygoodwin I have a 35lb I kept from my last boat, 15,000lb 30' boat. It's too much for my new 25, 6,000lb boat. I did like my anchor, so another mantus will work. The M2 performs better than the M1 doesn't it? What is your logic? I love your videos!
@@serpa4serpa433 In some seabeds, the M2 is phenomenal. In other seabeds (like Soft Mud) the M2 is among the least performing anchors.. Note that the Soft Mud seabed has very low holding capacity no matter which anchor is used. There is a good argument for choosing the anchor that does the best - in the worst seabed. An M1 (or Viking) is vastly better than an M2 in Soft Mud.
Nice Anchor, but factory is in the Ukraine. So good luck trying to get one.
This is an excerpt of an email from Viking Anchor dated December 12, 2022.
"Although we had suffered from a lack of products and slow-coming supplies we have managed to still get our products and supply them to our customers with minimum delays.
Overall, we feel that while facing the circumstances we did ok.
We all wish that this awful war situation will end soon"
This anchor is so badly galvanized it should not even get a 1!! I have had mine 6 months and only used 5 times in Dutch mud (Markerzee). I now have sailed to France and had some salt wash on it (NO anchoring yet!) and it’s corroding all over the place!! Having raised my concerns with Izi from Viking about the low rating here he reassured me that those issues had been resolved and should I have problems they would address them…. Once I send them pictures of the non anchoring related corrosion - his response was; that they were ‘contact related’!!! Yes, contact with a grinder post delivery as I proved by fotos I send him at point of unpacking the thing. Very unprofessional and sorry - might be a good anchor albeit the arch is very fragile / flexible, the quality of finish sucks and is way substandard. It even rusts in the bow roller 😂😂😂
Don't promote Chinese anchors with English name and is cheap.
Nothing Chinese about Viking anchors... they're made in Ukraine.