2001 Pathfinder thermostat
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- I looked for RUclips videos to help me install a thermostat, but most were very involved. To me, it didn't look so complicated and it wasn't.
However: I have a 2001 Pathfinder SE with a 5-speed. 275,000km (165,000 miles)
Here are some helpful tips:
1) only need a few tools, long needle nose pliers, 10 mm socket and rachet, an antifreeze catch pan, a funnel to fill the radiator, a tinier funnel and small hose to add antifreeze to the VENT TUBE.
2) I bought a Gates thermostat integrated into the housing. (no choice) It comes with a sticky gasket. (very helpful)
3) I removed the lower hose, first draining the engine at the bottom.
4) after refilling the rad, with VENT cap removed, complete filling through the VENT TUBE until the rad starts to overflow, with no air gap. This may require a couple of topping ups, then install the vent cap and radiator cap, and pour the rest of the anti-freeze into the overflow canister, to MAX. (very important steps)
Also, VERY IMPORTANT in the 3.5 for sure, there is a bleed tube beside the rear thermostat that HAS to be used when refilling an empty cooling system TO PURGE the air out. (yes, there are two thermostats in the 3.5)
This should take about half an hour, without removal of any other parts. ( I did remove a vacuum hose clip that kept scratching the back of my hand )
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There are two thermostat in this engine one in the front and other one at the back underneath the intake
the one in the back is called a "water valve" for the 02 pathy
Nissan Pathfinder 3.5Liter Engine if You Had Overheating Once A While Then You Will Need To Replace All Thermostats One At The Front And One At The Back Under The intake i Have The Same Vehicle 2001 Nissan Pathfinder i Had The Same Overheating Problem i just Replaced All The Thermostats Front And Rear Thermostats Plus New Water Pump On The Weekend Take Me Five Hours To get The jobs Done Good Luck Sir i'm From Vancouver British Columbia 😎😁👍👍
The reason I replaced the front thermostat, is because it would not close, so the engine would not come up to operating temperature. Yes, I am very aware of the rear thermostat, and I believe it is for the vehicle heater, which seems to be working fine.
Hi,for your info,your suv have a SECOND thermostat right between the firewall and below the intake manifold,close to the bottom of the cooling system bleeding line...surprised??..me too when I heard it,was stuck in close position and keep overheating until I change it,it drove me crazy
yes, it is a heater thermostat and causes issues for back yard and commercial mechanics.
I actually bought another 2001 Pathfinder from someone who had overheating issues and the cause is the heater thermostat. I paid $500 for it two years ago, but haven't taken the time to do the repair. The garage told them it was a head gasket issue, which would cost several thousand dollars to repair. LOL ohhh well.. but engine runs perfectly, and compression is fine, and oil is fine. I drove it for a long time around my acreage and one summer day, it finally overheated again while idling, so I parked it.
Yes,as I understood,for all I been read,the heather thermostat its at 205 degrees and for auto and manual for the front one is 170 or 180 deg,I think that the water get stuck in the engin until it begins to boil and that vapors is the pressure that eject the rad water thru the reservoir and everyone think that can be because a blown head gasket...does it make sense???
I am not sure. However the 3.3 liter engine from 2000 and previous had head gasket issues, so that is the first thing mechanics assume, I think. There are specific things to check, like compression and water in the crankcase or excessive white smoke from the exhaust if the head gasket is gone. Overheating is usually caused by air pockets, bad thermostats, leaking hoses or water pump or heater core, or a blocked and corroded radiator.
Also, VERY IMPORTANT in the 3.5 for sure, there is a bleed tube beside the rear thermostat that HAS to be used when refilling an empty cooling system TO PURGE the air out.
So were they 2 different size bolts as you mentioned?
Hi. It was five years ago, and I do not remember, but if you can lift the hood, it is an easy check.
I put a new thermostat but it’s won’t open !!!!
How do you know that ? It is really important to bleed the air from the system, and also bleed air by using the bleeder vent at the back of the engine. This engine also has a second thermostat, and are you sure your radiator is fine and there are no leaks in hoses or the water pump, head gasket, etc ?
Any success in replacing the front thermostat without removing the radiator/cowl/fan? My daughter's qx4 has the same issue that you described (long time to warm, heater virtually a joke for 35+ min, etc). I replaced the radiator in Oct 2018.
Absolutely worked great for me. Sometimes there can be an issue removing old gasket goop, if the thermostat has been previously changed, but in this instance, there was no goop. Be sure you have the tools to work in a confined space, and be very careful not to drop bolts. I had removed the lower skid shield, so when a bolt dropped, it ended up on the ground. There are nooks and crannies for bolts to drop. The new thermostat housing had an extra hose bib on it, so I cut a piece of hose, and found something that worked for a plug and clamped it into place. There was no interference to belts or the fan. It took me longer to set up, get tools and clean up than the time it took to actually change the housing. The thermostat and housing are a unit.
ya472 so I changed mine and attempted to bleed system but back vent tube is rusted closed. If the same symptoms (overheat, heat blowing cold) after I bleed the system, may be the second thermostat or worse?
@@pravashmukherjee8080 My vent tube had a rubber cap held on with a hose clamp. Push a piece of wire down the tube to break up the rust. If the tube is too rusty and you poke a hole in it, then you will need a new tube. You must bleed the air from this port, and it is easier to try this first than play with the second thermostat.
@@pravashmukherjee8080 You should be able to peer into the radiator to see if there is any buildup on the tubing. If this is significant, maybe you need a new rad? There are many failing points in the cooling system, so you need to eliminate them one by one, starting with the easy stuff, like a pressure test. If the rear vent tube is clogged with rust, it seems someone has been running the vehicle without proper antifreeze, and probably just water.
ya472 new radiator and belts (Oct 2018). Gonna try to open that rear vent pipe - already tried a small hammer/nail...will try a small drill bit next.