Dude - you need to take that head apart again. The reasons are as follows; 1 - What do the valve guides look like, because yanking out that punch has probably scratched the shit out of them. 2 - Where did you get the numbers from the shims from? And did you measure the clearances? 3 - That cam journal is fucked from what I could see on the video - pictures would be better. 4 - Everything is dry. You need some moly lube. 5 - Did you match all the buckets etc with the valves? 6 - Did you remove the burrs on the cam journals where the buckets live? They looked pretty fucked to me. 7 - Did you inspect the seats for cracks? 8 - Did you inspect the around the valve guide holes for cracks? 9 - That whole head needs cleaning out again. Do ALL of the work then clean at the end - so ream the guides, remove the burrs, lap the valves and apart all that then clean and assemble 10 - And for god sake dude, have a little finess
1- I reamed the valve guides after I "yanked" the punches out anyways so that doesn't matter. 2- I was just guessing on the shims at first to have a starting point but I properly adjusted them after this video and now they are all perfectly at the lower end of the spec, it will be in the next video. 3- yes the cam journal had some scarring but if you actually watched the video you would have seen me polishing the cam journal. 4- that wasn't a real assembly, it was just a dry test fit, I have now added lube to all cam journals, and anywhere where metal touches metal. 5- all valves and buckets are brand new so how do I match them? All buckets are exactly the same part. 6- yes I removed all burrs from cam journal and where the buckets live. Everything was polished smooth. Only one of the bucket ports were scarred up a little but I sanded down the burrs and polished. 7 - I inspected all seats, no cracks. 8 - I inspected around all valve guides, no cracks or any abnormalities. 9 - I cleaned during the whole process AND at the end. The head was fucking spotless and I can tell you that confidently. 10- maybe one day I will have finesse like you but I am still learning and these videos are just to document the process of me learning how to work on engines, they are not a how to guide so I hope no one treats them as such. 11 - good day sir.
@@GoldGuyRides "1- I reamed the valve guides after I "yanked" the punches out anyways so that doesn't matter." - well that depends if the scratches were deeper than the material the reamer removed...... "2- I was just guessing on the shims at first to have a starting point but I properly adjusted them after this video and now they are all perfectly at the lower end of the spec, it will be in the next video." - Ok cool. (Shut up Matt - I doing it! LOL) "3- yes the cam journal had some scarring but if you actually watched the video you would have seen me polishing the cam journal." - I did watch the entire video, dude that's not good. Cam journals are line bored, why do you think the eBay guy sold the head for cheap? "4- that wasn't a real assembly, it was just a dry test fit, I have now added lube to all cam journals, and anywhere where metal touches metal." - But there should be some oil......... Even for a 'it'll do for now test fit' "5- all valves and buckets are brand new so how do I match them? All buckets are exactly the same part." - Sorry dude, my bad - didn't notice the buckets in the bag. "6- yes I removed all burrs from cam journal and where the buckets live. Everything was polished smooth. Only one of the bucket ports were scarred up a little but I sanded down the burrs and polished." - Okie kokie, but sandpaper on the journals is bad....... "7 - I inspected all seats, no cracks. 8 - I inspected around all valve guides, no cracks or any abnormalities. 9 - I cleaned during the whole process AND at the end. The head was fucking spotless and I can tell you that confidently." - Cool, these were just questions...... "10- maybe one day I will have finesse like you but I am still learning and these videos are just to document the process of me learning how to work on engines, they are not a how to guide so I hope no one treats them as such." - LOL cool. No worries. Just remember 5 minutes you save doing it quickly = replacing parts later on.
I just done this to my yz250f and I would just refer to the service manual of the bike it will help a lot with specs! The yz valves are ti and not suppose to lap them or it’ll wear the coating off only suppose to lap SS valves, also they are 3 angle valves, the seat isn’t suppose to be as large as you were thinking. Would check manufactures specs it will tell you all that. One other thing, after you get valves installed you should take a socket that fits around the valve spring and give it good tap this is needed to “seat” the valves properly. Not trying to be a know it all cause I’m not claiming to just trying to give you some tips I learned from just doing this myself.
The valves that I installed are stainless steel, that is why I lapped them. It is a common conversion people do to these engines that don't like ti valves, they both have their pros and cons, I just bought the ss valves because they were cheaper. Thanks for all of your tips!
Before using gaskets and reassembling I would do a leak test on that head to see if your at home machining has succeeded. Flip so that the valves/combustion chamber are facing upwards like a bowl, fill with gas/acetone/solvent of your choice and see if it leaks past any of the valves. If it does your best step is to go to the machine shop and give them a bunch of your money to do it with the big machines. I've tried lapping valves that needed a professional repair myself and I wasted a perfectly good gasket kit and a couple litres of oil. Also, I was under the impression that when you install new valve guides the seats should be re-cut at the same time. If the location of the center of the old and new guides is not exactly the same, the valve is going to be tilted relative to the seat (won't seal all the way around) and weird wear will probably start happening. Then again, maybe it'll seal and things will work out just fine. Only one way to find out!
The valves I used are stainless steel, therefore they must be grinded. Also, I did the leak test with a penatrating oil after filming this video and none of the valves leaked! Thank you for your comment!
A few suggestions. Bump each of the tops of the valve shim caps with a soft mallet to set your keepers. (they will be less likely to pop out if you float a valve from over rev.) When reaming your guides try to hold a steady angle and speed to have the smoothest cut. Last but not least please cleanup the scarring on your camshafts and use assembly grease.
Damn bro I didnt know you could replace the valve guides, my stomach dripped when I heard you say you were going to drill them out thinking you were going to reuse them haha
Great video. Next time look up a video on how to lap the valves. You are supposed to lift the valves when they change sound. Kind of hard to explain. But look up a video and you Will understand. Also if you lap them to much the valves wont be able to disapate heat as well so they Will eventuly burn. Im not sure if you lifted the valves when you lapped them because they where short clips, just wanted to be sure
I did exactly that. Once the sound changed to a finer tone I lifted the valve and repeated the process multiple times. It just didn't make it in the video
pretty sure you should oil every moving part (spi joints too) of an engine when assembling it. Because when starting the engine the first cycles will be made dry and that's exactly the opposite of what we want in an engine ! =O
Make sure to clean the head, cam, and the cylinder and all the motor parts except for bottom end in a tub full of lukewarm water with dish soap, the compound impregnates the metal and that the only way to get all of it out. And also make sure to really scrub cylinder walls because if the cylinder was Honed the abrasive material impregnates itself into the nikasil coating. Don’t want to score up a new piston do you. And drain and replace oil twice every 30 minutes right after the break in procedure to ensure that there is no metal floating around from when it blew up
1978 ''good thing my moms not home '' weed, Budwieser and questionable friends. 2019 '' good thing my moms not home '' cooking engine parts in the family oven....haaaa.
Check the valve clearance before you put the head on, you might need to get some shims, if you've never done this before, plenty of videos on how to, it's not hard, also check the head for flatness and yuse pleny of oil on assembly.
@@GoldGuyRides yeah just bolt the caps on, i'd take the buckets out and get some oil in there before you start the engine, you want plenty of lube on the top end, as it's totally dry.
The song that I used for that intro became copyrighted out of nowhere even though I got it from a copyright free source, so I can no longer use it! It sucks, I had one video demonetized because of it and haven't used it since. I will have to make a new intro I suppose
make sure you replace the timing chain tensioner, its a $50 part that'll save your engine.....ask me how I know! the tensioner was the only part I didn't replace on my wr450 rebuild (which included a new engine case) and it cost me a piston, cylinder and head. So i rebuilt my bike twice, and lost any profit in fixing and flipping it.
ya just drive it forever, don't bother checking the oil... have to take the valve cover off to top up the oil, so i doubt it was ever done. compared to the 2003 250 5 valve i tuned up last month the intake cam lobs look a little rounded on the 450 their.
If your valve are made of titanium and coated with chromium you shouldn't have grind them. It's not the end of the world but when you lap a chromium valve you lose the hard coating and the valves wear down in really quickly
I have a 03 yz450f i just bought, it wouldn't start so I checked the compression it said 30. so I check the timming figured out it was set wrong so trying to reinstall the can cover one cover broke an so the question is can I just buy a used one from 03 or do I have to get a new head that comes with cover ?
Because if it's a 03 with the 4 speed gearbox.... they are very very torquey, I had two! Take one tooth off at the back sprocket and add one to the front👏🏼 from the standard setup! Will do 90-95 mph, check the oil regularly 😋
No I was going to wait to do that when the engine is reassembled but I realized that I can check them before reassembly, so that is what I'm going to do!
@@GoldGuyRides Could an oil pump failure be an possibility? I don't know how this engine gets it's oil pumped to the top end. May also be a blocked passage? I'm just throwing stuff out in the dark. It would suck to put the engine back together and have the same thing happen.
Hey great video I love the details but this is a 2 stroke? I only can really tell on the 250/450 is that the oil side cover is plastic? Any way of identifying a 2 stroke from a 4 stroke?
Valve clearances get tighter on s used engine because the seats sink into the head a bit. There is no such thing as stock size shim. My new bike had 3 different t sizes from factory
OMG... The titanium valve does not process the abrasive, only the valve coating works, the valve itself is not resistant to uncoated operation. Manual for YZ 450f error.The seat can only be abraded with an unsuitable valve or a specially made replacement. This is not good, the seat axis and the valve axis do not always coincide when they are replaced. Only good processing special machine. Manual handling is not very good, very thin valve body. Manual processing requires a lot of experience to work properly.
@@GoldGuyRides Ok, I saw that the exhaust valve is steel, the intake valve is similar to titanium. Special valve springs? Such replacements make engine operation unpredictable. Steel reinforcement on the original springs will hang at high speeds. Steel valves on special springs provide additional load on the camshaft drive chain. Chain wear is very fast, chain breakage is possible.
Jesus Christ, 4 minutes in and I can't watch any more. Quit the engines and become a butcher, that is no way to treat an engine and god help anyone who thinks this is the correct way to rebuild a top end. Unbelievable!
Smashing and drilling and pounding and sanding and assembling and not measuring and grinding and more assembling and Dremmeling and no lube and back on Craig's list, "fresh top end". This should be called "Assburger's Workshop".
Dude - you need to take that head apart again. The reasons are as follows;
1 - What do the valve guides look like, because yanking out that punch has probably scratched the shit out of them.
2 - Where did you get the numbers from the shims from? And did you measure the clearances?
3 - That cam journal is fucked from what I could see on the video - pictures would be better.
4 - Everything is dry. You need some moly lube.
5 - Did you match all the buckets etc with the valves?
6 - Did you remove the burrs on the cam journals where the buckets live? They looked pretty fucked to me.
7 - Did you inspect the seats for cracks?
8 - Did you inspect the around the valve guide holes for cracks?
9 - That whole head needs cleaning out again. Do ALL of the work then clean at the end - so ream the guides, remove the burrs, lap the valves and apart all that then clean and assemble
10 - And for god sake dude, have a little finess
Underrated comment Matt 👌🏻 Why's he got a fetish for the grinder and Dremel as well?
spot on , so many wtf and ohnoes in this vid
1- I reamed the valve guides after I "yanked" the punches out anyways so that doesn't matter.
2- I was just guessing on the shims at first to have a starting point but I properly adjusted them after this video and now they are all perfectly at the lower end of the spec, it will be in the next video.
3- yes the cam journal had some scarring but if you actually watched the video you would have seen me polishing the cam journal.
4- that wasn't a real assembly, it was just a dry test fit, I have now added lube to all cam journals, and anywhere where metal touches metal.
5- all valves and buckets are brand new so how do I match them? All buckets are exactly the same part.
6- yes I removed all burrs from cam journal and where the buckets live. Everything was polished smooth. Only one of the bucket ports were scarred up a little but I sanded down the burrs and polished.
7 - I inspected all seats, no cracks.
8 - I inspected around all valve guides, no cracks or any abnormalities.
9 - I cleaned during the whole process AND at the end. The head was fucking spotless and I can tell you that confidently.
10- maybe one day I will have finesse like you but I am still learning and these videos are just to document the process of me learning how to work on engines, they are not a how to guide so I hope no one treats them as such.
11 - good day sir.
@@GoldGuyRides "1- I reamed the valve guides after I "yanked" the punches out anyways so that doesn't matter."
- well that depends if the scratches were deeper than the material the reamer removed......
"2- I was just guessing on the shims at first to have a starting point but I properly adjusted them after this video and now they are all perfectly at the lower end of the spec, it will be in the next video."
- Ok cool. (Shut up Matt - I doing it! LOL)
"3- yes the cam journal had some scarring but if you actually watched the video you would have seen me polishing the cam journal."
- I did watch the entire video, dude that's not good. Cam journals are line bored, why do you think the eBay guy sold the head for cheap?
"4- that wasn't a real assembly, it was just a dry test fit, I have now added lube to all cam journals, and anywhere where metal touches metal."
- But there should be some oil......... Even for a 'it'll do for now test fit'
"5- all valves and buckets are brand new so how do I match them? All buckets are exactly the same part."
- Sorry dude, my bad - didn't notice the buckets in the bag.
"6- yes I removed all burrs from cam journal and where the buckets live. Everything was polished smooth. Only one of the bucket ports were scarred up a little but I sanded down the burrs and polished."
- Okie kokie, but sandpaper on the journals is bad.......
"7 - I inspected all seats, no cracks.
8 - I inspected around all valve guides, no cracks or any abnormalities.
9 - I cleaned during the whole process AND at the end. The head was fucking spotless and I can tell you that confidently."
- Cool, these were just questions......
"10- maybe one day I will have finesse like you but I am still learning and these videos are just to document the process of me learning how to work on engines, they are not a how to guide so I hope no one treats them as such."
- LOL cool. No worries. Just remember 5 minutes you save doing it quickly = replacing parts later on.
@@GoldGuyRides Haha screw that guy. We all have to start somewhere! I was screwing up engines left and right at your age, so you're doing great!
I just done this to my yz250f and I would just refer to the service manual of the bike it will help a lot with specs! The yz valves are ti and not suppose to lap them or it’ll wear the coating off only suppose to lap SS valves, also they are 3 angle valves, the seat isn’t suppose to be as large as you were thinking. Would check manufactures specs it will tell you all that. One other thing, after you get valves installed you should take a socket that fits around the valve spring and give it good tap this is needed to “seat” the valves properly. Not trying to be a know it all cause I’m not claiming to just trying to give you some tips I learned from just doing this myself.
Also like someone else commented, you want to use at least oil or assembly lube when putting it all together.
The valves that I installed are stainless steel, that is why I lapped them. It is a common conversion people do to these engines that don't like ti valves, they both have their pros and cons, I just bought the ss valves because they were cheaper. Thanks for all of your tips!
Before using gaskets and reassembling I would do a leak test on that head to see if your at home machining has succeeded. Flip so that the valves/combustion chamber are facing upwards like a bowl, fill with gas/acetone/solvent of your choice and see if it leaks past any of the valves. If it does your best step is to go to the machine shop and give them a bunch of your money to do it with the big machines. I've tried lapping valves that needed a professional repair myself and I wasted a perfectly good gasket kit and a couple litres of oil.
Also, I was under the impression that when you install new valve guides the seats should be re-cut at the same time. If the location of the center of the old and new guides is not exactly the same, the valve is going to be tilted relative to the seat (won't seal all the way around) and weird wear will probably start happening.
Then again, maybe it'll seal and things will work out just fine. Only one way to find out!
The valves I used are stainless steel, therefore they must be grinded. Also, I did the leak test with a penatrating oil after filming this video and none of the valves leaked! Thank you for your comment!
@@GoldGuyRides Are you sure the replacements were stainless? The OEM ones and the one you dremeled are Titanium.
@@dirtygarageguykibblewhite is stainless
I would love for you to do more dirtbike rebuilds! Good luck with this channel!
A reminder'throu some fuel into intake and exhaust ports to check that valves are seating propley.
I love this channel. Always eagerly waiting on content.
Use oil when assembling bro, dry engine parts = not good
Too right! The engine will suffer first time it starts, it will knock hours off its life if mot properly lubed up first.
Ouch
Maybe he did and just didn't show it or press record button. We like to know, you know! My, ain't we nosey!
u oviasly don't pay any attention fucknut he oiled all of it
@@backwater1536 oviasly :DDDDDDDDDDDD seriously bro? it's spelled obviously
@@jepulis6529 you thik he doesn't know that or are you really that stupid , you think your smart because you seen someone make a typo 😂😂😂😂
A few suggestions. Bump each of the tops of the valve shim caps with a soft mallet to set your keepers. (they will be less likely to pop out if you float a valve from over rev.) When reaming your guides try to hold a steady angle and speed to have the smoothest cut. Last but not least please cleanup the scarring on your camshafts and use assembly grease.
Damn bro I didnt know you could replace the valve guides, my stomach dripped when I heard you say you were going to drill them out thinking you were going to reuse them haha
Yass😃 finally a vid, love your channel gold guy I’m always eagerly waiting on a new video to come out love your vids and keep up the good work
Great video. Next time look up a video on how to lap the valves. You are supposed to lift the valves when they change sound. Kind of hard to explain. But look up a video and you Will understand. Also if you lap them to much the valves wont be able to disapate heat as well so they Will eventuly burn. Im not sure if you lifted the valves when you lapped them because they where short clips, just wanted to be sure
I did exactly that. Once the sound changed to a finer tone I lifted the valve and repeated the process multiple times. It just didn't make it in the video
GoldGuy great, thats what i thought
After adding vavle grinding compound and sliding in those vavle, I'm not sure but you can attach it to a drill and let it grind.
pretty sure you should oil every moving part (spi joints too) of an engine when assembling it. Because when starting the engine the first cycles will be made dry and that's exactly the opposite of what we want in an engine ! =O
Exactly, dry assembly is gonna take hours off of its life span..
was fun to watch , i fix stuff the same way .. :D rig everything !
cant wait to see this thing get going
You can shim the valves now. On the bench. Do it now. Way easier then later. And if way off won’t start. Mine has 3.05
Just make sure valve lobes are pointing outward Opposite of each other
After you get them specked... put oil on everything
Offspring reference was onpoint!
I’m waiting for the “top end rebuild part two”
But the camshaft wasnt fine it was scored good and the head where the cam goes is not in good shape
Great job you are learning fast well done and keep up the good work and vids
Thank you mate!
Nice, I was wondering when you were going to start working on this one. You'll be moto vlogging on this in no time.
Love your vids man hurry up with the next vid lol I'm excited to see if it runs good
I hope that cam jurnel works and lasts. What about some assembly lube on it to help bedding in for it's new life. :)
Bang 🤣 I’m sure it will be fine mr gold guy can’t wait for first ride
Awesome content, my dude! I always learn something watching you work on bikes. :)
Thank you for always watching my vids bro! It is humbling to know that they have tought you something
@@GoldGuyRides Thanks for always posting videos!
Time to shred!
Make sure to clean the head, cam, and the cylinder and all the motor parts except for bottom end in a tub full of lukewarm water with dish soap, the compound impregnates the metal and that the only way to get all of it out. And also make sure to really scrub cylinder walls because if the cylinder was Honed the abrasive material impregnates itself into the nikasil coating. Don’t want to score up a new piston do you. And drain and replace oil twice every 30 minutes right after the break in procedure to ensure that there is no metal floating around from when it blew up
Cool video! I'm also rebuilding the top end of my honda crf 450 supermoto!
Love your content dude. Great job
Hope you plan on going back with some assembly lube or atleast motor oil..if not you can say goodbye to those lobes and journals
Don’t forget assembly oil duder
1978 ''good thing my moms not home '' weed, Budwieser and questionable friends. 2019
'' good thing my moms not home '' cooking engine parts in the family oven....haaaa.
Love the vids awesome job
Good joob men👍👍.
Salam froom Indonesia😅😅
Check the valve clearance before you put the head on, you might need to get some shims, if you've never done this before, plenty of videos on how to, it's not hard, also check the head for flatness and yuse pleny of oil on assembly.
Thank you for the tips! I didn't realize I could check the valve clearances prior to reassembling the engine but now I will do that!
@@GoldGuyRides yeah just bolt the caps on, i'd take the buckets out and get some oil in there before you start the engine, you want plenty of lube on the top end, as it's totally dry.
@@daveswarbrick5576 I was thinking exactly the same thing!
@@stevenhill6214 i have visions of a top end seizure from lack of oil on start up!
Did we miss the "Gold Guy" logo appearing on the screen at the beginning of the vid?
BRUH I DIDNT EVEN NOTICE WHAT IS THAT
The song that I used for that intro became copyrighted out of nowhere even though I got it from a copyright free source, so I can no longer use it! It sucks, I had one video demonetized because of it and haven't used it since. I will have to make a new intro I suppose
Nice job
thank you for the info bro
You NEED to oil the cam before assembly!!!
Sorry dude just checked and it said don't use the ream in the reverse position only go in a clockwise direction my bad.
You never run a ream against its direction of cut. It’ll dull and become worthless.
@@johnthorstad4048 yep thats why i amended my reply.
Good stuff GG 👍👍
Those cams looked like they would definitely need sanding..
Will it run?
The nicest 500dollar bike ever!
We need a cafe racer video soon
gold guy!
I think I’ll just stick to my 2 stroke
i'm waiting for the next video, i live your channel
make sure you replace the timing chain tensioner, its a $50 part that'll save your engine.....ask me how I know! the tensioner was the only part I didn't replace on my wr450 rebuild (which included a new engine case) and it cost me a piston, cylinder and head. So i rebuilt my bike twice, and lost any profit in fixing and flipping it.
Hey what's up you should work on a forwheeler next
Nah man bikes are where its at.
@@Douknowgregg you should look into working on a 1971 slE Honda
@@NOAH_HINMAN never heard of an sle I've heard of the sl models
Im just busting your chops though man quads are cool but just not my thing.
Yeee yeee
Gold guy what valve kit did you get? I’m redoing my valves and would love to know. Thanks love your channel and content
Thanks for watching! I got an eBay valve kit. I don't think they are available anymore but they were just generic eBay valves. They worked great.
if i was you, i would have sent the head to a machine shop, in USA might be quite cheaper than in france where i live
Got a keep on sapperated..offspring song
4 strokes look like a nightmare to work on il stick to 2 strokes
ya just drive it forever, don't bother checking the oil... have to take the valve cover off to top up the oil, so i doubt it was ever done. compared to the 2003 250 5 valve i tuned up last month the intake cam lobs look a little rounded on the 450 their.
If your valve are made of titanium and coated with chromium you shouldn't have grind them.
It's not the end of the world but when you lap a chromium valve you lose the hard coating and the valves wear down in really quickly
The valves I installed are stainless steel therefore they can be grinded.
Show, quando vai ter a continuação? Valeu.
How many pounds of torque are given to long screws?
I have a 03 yz450f i just bought, it wouldn't start so I checked the compression it said 30. so I check the timming figured out it was set wrong so trying to reinstall the can cover one cover broke an so the question is can I just buy a used one from 03 or do I have to get a new head that comes with cover ?
Oven could do with good clean x
How did you learn all of this stuff?
i got the same valve kit for my 04 yz450 did they last long ????????
Maybe you should lightly lube the cams when installed??????
Yes, I definitely will do that when I put the engine together, I'm gonna lube everything!
Props on getting fixed but i was cringing the whole time.
if those are ti valves you are going to have problems in a few hours of riding
They are stainless steel valves.
I think you missed putting in the last shim?????????
Turn it into a supermoto
Thats a mx not a enduro lol
Should have bought a 2stroke
I have a couple 2 strokes, I like 4 strokes too though.
Gang 5 cay sức bấp luon ghe vậy
mantap gan 👍
How to put something back together so it stays together JUST long enough to sell it and fuck over the next owner.
Heat up the head next time when removing and assembling the guides or else you risk tearing the Aluminum if its cold
Did you watch the video? I did heat up the head...
@@GoldGuyRides What Stoneyfob46 means is heat the head up when removing the broken guides
Ohhhhh I see, yeah that would have helped. They still came out pretty easy though
I know this is old but how much was the valve kit.
Like a $100 on ebay shipped
Anyone know what year this 450 is 🤔
Because if it's a 03 with the 4 speed gearbox.... they are very very torquey, I had two!
Take one tooth off at the back sprocket and add one to the front👏🏼 from the standard setup!
Will do 90-95 mph, check the oil regularly 😋
It is a 2008! That sounds awesome man, I am pretty sure mine is a 5 speed.
# SPECIAL
Did you check your valve clearances?
No I was going to wait to do that when the engine is reassembled but I realized that I can check them before reassembly, so that is what I'm going to do!
This engine looks like it overheated and or really low on oil
That's what I'm thinking
@@GoldGuyRides Could an oil pump failure be an possibility? I don't know how this engine gets it's oil pumped to the top end. May also be a blocked passage? I'm just throwing stuff out in the dark. It would suck to put the engine back together and have the same thing happen.
Assembly lube?
Motor apa ini bang
Hey great video I love the details but this is a 2 stroke? I only can really tell on the 250/450 is that the oil side cover is plastic? Any way of identifying a 2 stroke from a 4 stroke?
pease buy a new plug lol
I love your channel my dude, keep up the fire content my guy
“I don’t wanna take any material away if any”
*grabs drill*
Lmao
Việt nam like
Assembly oil, please!!!!!!!!!
Tiene 5 válvulas, de que es cada una?
3 admision 2 escape
:o waoooo
😀
How do you know what size shim to put under the buckets?
stock size should be right since hes using new and not worn componenets i assume
@@nou943 Not true they will still have to be measured and adjusted accordingly.
@@smilie120 thank you. i did not know this. maybe he set cam timing with the head on the bench and did it that way
I just guessed, I'm going to measure the real clearances on the bench and then change the shims out accordingly.
Valve clearances get tighter on s used engine because the seats sink into the head a bit. There is no such thing as stock size shim. My new bike had 3 different t sizes from factory
YO, Son! Did you put some of dat...... VTEC cams up in dat Fo'Fiddy?! Rip your arms outta your socket, gnome-sayin?!
Hell yeah man you know I did
OMG... The titanium valve does not process the abrasive, only the valve coating works, the valve itself is not resistant to uncoated operation. Manual for YZ 450f error.The seat can only be abraded with an unsuitable valve or a specially made replacement. This is not good, the seat axis and the valve axis do not always coincide when they are replaced. Only good processing special machine. Manual handling is not very good, very thin valve body. Manual processing requires a lot of experience to work properly.
The valves I installed are stainless steel!!!
@@GoldGuyRides Ok, I saw that the exhaust valve is steel, the intake valve is similar to titanium. Special valve springs? Such replacements make engine operation unpredictable. Steel reinforcement on the original springs will hang at high speeds. Steel valves on special springs provide additional load on the camshaft drive chain. Chain wear is very fast, chain breakage is possible.
!!!!!!!!
He literally was sing for a second and UMG jumped on his ass and demonized the video. Smh
😂😂😂 I hope you are just joking
3rd
This was a cringy video. I wouldn’t want you building my engines lol
I don't wanna build your engine anyways
Please translate to Indonesia languange
I font rebuild 4strokes🤮
Huuuuuuuuuuuu
Jesus Christ, 4 minutes in and I can't watch any more. Quit the engines and become a butcher, that is no way to treat an engine and god help anyone who thinks this is the correct way to rebuild a top end. Unbelievable!
Since you are coming off as some pro engine rebuilder, why don't you skip the insults and give me some advice? What did I do wrong?
@@GoldGuyRides Nice reply! LMAO!
Smashing and drilling and pounding and sanding and assembling and not measuring and grinding and more assembling and Dremmeling and no lube and back on Craig's list, "fresh top end". This should be called "Assburger's Workshop".
Thanks
How many pounds are given to screws holding the head and cylinder?