@@mountainsgarage S*** im downloading all your th400 vids, really learning from the 4l80 info also, i am rebuilding 2 4l80 and 2 th400 and i seem to have gotten in a spot by trying to follow some advice or a process they really didnt know exactly what they were doing. and i finally found some one out there who i think has an even dryer sense of humor than i do, Props to ya !!
Back in the old day Zinc Chromate primer was used on aluminum. Hard to find nowadays and some use epoxy primer. I will be rebuilding my transmission in a couple of month. I enjoy your videos and I will continue to do so. Bert
Thanks for the marker tip!! I always learn something from your video's. Can't wait for the next. Should I use a case saver for a rmvb? I did upgrade to the spiral snap ring
Hey. I installed a new bushing on the Center Support of my TH400 and now the sun shaft is binding and wont go in (only with a lot of force). I used an aluminum bushing driver and a hammer. How much clearance is correct and can I ream it to the correct clearance or only try a new bushing? Greetings from germany.
Hi Shawn, These videos are GREAT!!!!. My son and I have learned tons. We rebuilt our first trans a couple years ago. A TH350 with a Hughes kit in it behind a 375HP 350. It was a success. We are now attempting a 1973 TH400. It is a heavy case with 8 bolt holes. Its going behind a 496cu putting out 630 crank HP and a TCI 3000 stall. We are putting a Mcleod/Raybestos kit with a Transpro shift kit. We are going to cut the pistons and add 1 extra steel and friction in each place. Our problem is we have wear in the planetary's and it looks like one of the planets has chipped teeth. We are having a hard time finding replacement planetary sets for the 400. Do you have a suggestion? And should we do anything else to the trans that I haven't mentioned? Thanks,
Merry Christmas! I find planetary parts on eBay often, or find a transmission for parts. If you follow the valvebody mods on the Crankshaft Coalition TH400 website you will have a nice result and leave the shift kit in the box.
Hey Shawn, I'm finally assembling my 400 and my intermediate retainer doesn't have much movement downward. I got the snap ring in but it doesn't push in very much. I did put 6 springs in like you did. Is there a measurement of how much the retainer should move before the springs stop it? Thanks, Keith
I am sure it’s fine, air check the intermediate clutch pack by blowing air up through the center support bolt. Should be plenty of travel on the piston. Happy New Year!
I am sorry to bug you again. But I put one of those sonnax rear case Torrington bearing part number 34006-spb. When checking rear ended play should I pry on the gear train and check clearance with feeler gauge or just throw a feeler gauge in without prying. When I pry the clearance is .008. Perfect. It turn extremely nice. However if I don’t pry. The feeler gauge doesn’t go in. Which method is correct. I’m guessing prying to take out all the play then check clearance. I saw a video where you had a tight .004 rear end play with a feeler gauge and you said it was ok. Did you pry at the same time you check the clearance to get all the slack out. So far the trans has gone together perfectly. This will keep me up at night. I just want to make sure I did it right. Thanks again. Keep up the great videos. Much appreciated.
I have a huge problem after installing the centersupport snapring and stock CS bolt. when these are locked in the sungearpinionshaft wont spin around, like the axle or so is not centered, i have re center the case bushing, new needlebearings are inatalled, new brass washers, just stock thicknes. To mention i installed new brass bushings in to the sungearshaft, and in the beginning they feel a bit tight, i hone them up pretty good so the shaft float easy over the mainshaft. I stack up all the parts before installing them and evertthing moves free and rolls good. Only problem is when centersupport get the Lockring installed and bolt. The mainshaft spin normal but the sungear shaft lock the rest. i dont know where to look for the problem. i also hone up the rear mainshaft ring gear bushing as well. Should there be good clearence anyway for the mainshaft to sungear bushings, its like the sungearshaft pressing on the mainshaft or CS bushing. i also check this problem without the reversband installed. Do you have an idea what could be the problem? Thanks.
I have had similar issues before. If the parts all ran together as a unit before I know I did something wrong or something isn’t seated correctly. If I used a bunch of random parts I also look for a reason that might not be the above. But until it spins free with both the snap ring and the bolt, no question sometime is wrong.
I know you’ve probably mentioned it before what clearance range are you looking for with a rollarized rear… Is .002-.004 acceptable I read that bearings don’t like much clearance.
I was told the wine is hear is due to omitting those plastic silencer rings. Does this have any detrimental long term effects or just that batmobile sound. Your vids are awesome I love all the tech details
cf mechanic Yes you can leave it out, they claim it does transfer more noise without and maybe let the reaction carrier float more. You can add a roller bearing on the reaction carrier but you have to machine a pocket for it.
No it is a Kent Moore. Some on eBay are just a slotted piece of metal that works fine. Also a rag and a vicegrip clamp work. Or lay the case valvebody up and cradle the lower unit like a baby and pass it through.
Large outer seal tool is a J-38732 but I dont have the number for the inner for that piston... the inner seal tool for the pistons in the direct and forward are J-21362... at least those are the numbers on the tools I use (well worth the money, found mine one Ebay)
Just ordered my TH400 manual...thanks!
I like how organized you keep everything
Awesome, finally someone who answers qus=estions i didnt even know i needed to ask, thank you for sharing your experience
Thanks for watching!
@@mountainsgarage S*** im downloading all your th400 vids, really learning from the 4l80 info also, i am rebuilding 2 4l80 and 2 th400 and i seem to have gotten in a spot by trying to follow some advice or a process they really didnt know exactly what they were doing. and i finally found some one out there who i think has an even dryer sense of humor than i do, Props to ya !!
Thank you for sharing.👍
Back in the old day Zinc Chromate primer was used on aluminum. Hard to find nowadays and some use epoxy primer. I will be rebuilding my transmission in a couple of month. I enjoy your videos and I will continue to do so. Bert
Thanks for watching!
looking forward to the next !
Great Video.
I noticed your vice on the floor, that’s a good idea!
Thanks for the marker tip!! I always learn something from your video's. Can't wait for the next. Should I use a case saver for a rmvb? I did upgrade to the spiral snap ring
Hey.
I installed a new bushing on the Center Support of my TH400 and now the sun shaft is binding and wont go in (only with a lot of force). I used an aluminum bushing driver and a hammer. How much clearance is correct and can I ream it to the correct clearance or only try a new bushing?
Greetings from germany.
I need a lifting tool like yours.
Hi Shawn, These videos are GREAT!!!!. My son and I have learned tons. We rebuilt our first trans a couple years ago. A TH350 with a Hughes kit in it behind a 375HP 350. It was a success. We are now attempting a 1973 TH400. It is a heavy case with 8 bolt holes. Its going behind a 496cu putting out 630 crank HP and a TCI 3000 stall. We are putting a Mcleod/Raybestos kit with a Transpro shift kit. We are going to cut the pistons and add 1 extra steel and friction in each place. Our problem is we have wear in the planetary's and it looks like one of the planets has chipped teeth. We are having a hard time finding replacement planetary sets for the 400. Do you have a suggestion? And should we do anything else to the trans that I haven't mentioned? Thanks,
Merry Christmas!
I find planetary parts on eBay often, or find a transmission for parts.
If you follow the valvebody mods on the Crankshaft Coalition TH400 website you will have a nice result and leave the shift kit in the box.
@@mountainsgarage Thanks for the info. Keep the videos coming. Great stuff!
Can you omit the silencer ring or does it significantly reduce noise? Great stuff Shawn, preciate ya.
Yes GM left it out half the time. Thanks!
Hey Shawn, I'm finally assembling my 400 and my intermediate retainer doesn't have much movement downward. I got the snap ring in but it doesn't push in very much. I did put 6 springs in like you did. Is there a measurement of how much the retainer should move before the springs stop it?
Thanks, Keith
I am sure it’s fine, air check the intermediate clutch pack by blowing air up through the center support bolt. Should be plenty of travel on the piston. Happy New Year!
I am sorry to bug you again. But I put one of those sonnax rear case Torrington bearing part number 34006-spb. When checking rear ended play should I pry on the gear train and check clearance with feeler gauge or just throw a feeler gauge in without prying. When I pry the clearance is .008. Perfect. It turn extremely nice. However if I don’t pry. The feeler gauge doesn’t go in. Which method is correct. I’m guessing prying to take out all the play then check clearance. I saw a video where you had a tight .004 rear end play with a feeler gauge and you said it was ok. Did you pry at the same time you check the clearance to get all the slack out. So far the trans has gone together perfectly. This will keep me up at night. I just want to make sure I did it right. Thanks again. Keep up the great videos. Much appreciated.
I have a huge problem after installing the centersupport snapring and stock CS bolt. when these are locked in the sungearpinionshaft wont spin around, like the axle or so is not centered, i have re center the case bushing, new needlebearings are inatalled, new brass washers, just stock thicknes.
To mention i installed new brass bushings in to the sungearshaft, and in the beginning they feel a bit tight, i hone them up pretty good so the shaft float easy over the mainshaft.
I stack up all the parts before installing them and evertthing moves free and rolls good.
Only problem is when centersupport get the Lockring installed and bolt.
The mainshaft spin normal but the sungear shaft lock the rest. i dont know where to look for the problem. i also hone up the rear mainshaft ring gear bushing as well.
Should there be good clearence anyway for the mainshaft to sungear bushings, its like the sungearshaft pressing on the mainshaft or CS bushing. i also check this problem without the reversband installed.
Do you have an idea what could be the problem?
Thanks.
I have had similar issues before.
If the parts all ran together as a unit before I know I did something wrong or something isn’t seated correctly.
If I used a bunch of random parts I also look for a reason that might not be the above.
But until it spins free with both the snap ring and the bolt, no question sometime is wrong.
I know you’ve probably mentioned it before what clearance range are you looking for with a rollarized rear… Is .002-.004 acceptable I read that bearings don’t like much clearance.
I was told the wine is hear is due to omitting those plastic silencer rings. Does this have any detrimental long term effects or just that batmobile sound. Your vids are awesome I love all the tech details
cf mechanic Yes you can leave it out, they claim it does transfer more noise without and maybe let the reaction carrier float more. You can add a roller bearing on the reaction carrier but you have to machine a pocket for it.
@@mountainsgarage thanks for the reply
Turns out the whine I had was a bad planet assembly because the silencers were in there not omitted as builder originally claimed
How much would you charge to make that lifting tool sir.
Are the stock reverse bands good for high performance use?
Yes a good condition stock band is race ready!
Sorry I just saw this!
Where can I find low gear set for the TH400? I need something around 3:1 1st and 1:5 for 2nd gear.
How much do you charge for your regular rebuild?
Shawn did you make that lifting tool?
No it is a Kent Moore.
Some on eBay are just a slotted piece of metal that works fine.
Also a rag and a vicegrip clamp work.
Or lay the case valvebody up and cradle the lower unit like a baby and pass it through.
Can u post numbers on those "J" tools
I'm having trouble finding them too.
Large outer seal tool is a J-38732 but I dont have the number for the inner for that piston... the inner seal tool for the pistons in the direct and forward are J-21362... at least those are the numbers on the tools I use (well worth the money, found mine one Ebay)