How to Generate More Speed Surfing Frontside
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Generating speed comes from a few places: Wave Energy, Gravity, and lastly Resistance/Force.
Gravity is the easiest place to source speed but the extra speed you get from resistance/force is what helps you get through flat sections and get to the places where gravity can be sourced.
Plain and simple, I am teaching you the order in which I learned to generate speed.
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Small caveat. Tommy always finishes his speed generation with a maneuver. Beginners fall in love with pumping and pump themselves right off waves all the time. I know shortboarders who surfed 10-15 years and all they do is pump. It's good to get to a section where you can do something - off the lip to re-entry, bottom turn to top turn, blow the tail out...etc
and this is the movement that makes you feel and look like a surfer.
Your way of explaining things is so much better than 90% of the many videos that cover the same topic. You explain the parts that they don’t even think to mention. Can you do the backside version of this video? The physics is the same of course, but the mechanics feel so different.
Thanks. I will put together a backside speed generation video soon. I'm spending a little time trying to figure out a way to explain it. I think a lot of times we subconsciously do things and don't realize the mechanics of it. Most of our waves recently have been left, so frontside for me. But soon.
Yeah backside is the hardest thing in the world for me. My body just doesn't know what to do. Waiting for that one. Notifications on. Thanks
@@marcass100 Same, i have very little neck flexibility. You are supposed to look down the line but I always tend to look towards shore. I need to work on that as well. I know what i'm supposed to do but hard to do it but on occasion I do execute it and those waves tend to look way better. I will definitely try and get a video done soon. Funny thing, making the videos has been helping me as well. Makes me think about things differently.
Totally agree! For someone starting to surf as an adult there is a lot of assumed knowledge in a lot of content. These videos have a helped me a lot. Tic tacking on a regular skateboard really helps with what was a difficult skill to get my head around.
Any updates on this? Did Thomye ever upload backside pumping?
IMPORTANT: something that a few people mentioned in the comments was catching the heel side rail when at the top of the wave of tictacking. If you are catching the rail, it is likely because you are trying to carve down the wave by pulling your front foot. Instead of carving, make sure you "Tic". In face, when you practice on the sake, lift the nose of the skate so that you heat it tap. Watch 4:33 when I am at the top of the wave, you will see me lift my nose up and out of the water and point it down the wave. I didn't emphasize this but should have. This is where people who do how to videos are disconnected because we forget what mistakes we made.
Thank you for taking the time to put these videos together, they’re extremely helpful!
My friend is a longboarder and he pumps that so we shortboarders have no excuse. Good video. Was surprised a surf skate isn't that good for it but it all made sense. It just wiggles and in reality your rail is in a water which you have to lift up if you want to pump on a wave so regular skateboard makes a lot of sense. Big bonus points for you mate for pointing this out 👍
Easily the best video I have seen yet about learning to generate speed. Thanks for breaking it down so well! Might have to look into get a skateboard!
Amazing, tried the tik tak today on my sweet potato and man, what a speed, I also tried the back snap looking below the arm (you explained in video 3) but I was with so much speed after doing few tik taks I literally flew 2m
Love your videos, Keep on going!!
I stumbled on your channel and have been enjoying every episode so far! For this episode, I was really surprised to see the clip of a Japanese surfer tick tacking. He is my sensei in Japan of surfing when I was still in Japan in my twenties. What a small world!
He is really good and I really liked his technique. I thought it was important to show how it was possible on a bigger board. That is really cool. Small world indeed.
Very clear explainations. Subscribed.
ditto, your vids are sick
you should do one of surfing. I'll have to look through your vids to see if you already did. :)
@@ThomyeSurfs Haha thanks, not yet. But I will definitely do some surfing stop motion !!!
Very nice content. Thank you
Another great, common sense video Thomye. Much appreciated brotherhood. Super helpful. Used your suggestions on one of my boards that I swore just wouldn't go coming from longer craft with built in speed and glide. Realized real, real quick it was all me not the board (not that I expected it do be different lol). When I did what you said, it took off like a rocket on a 3' high tide mush burger. Was a happy surprise and the stoke meter went through the roof.
Right on. Love hearing that. The scary part for me is that not everything works the same way for everyone but generally speaking I feel like it should. So I’m glad it worked out. I have just discovered something about my surfing so I want to make a second speed generation video. Focusing more on the upswing and less on the down pump.
@@ThomyeSurfs Totally makes sense. Still trying to work on getting my back foot a little farther back myself. Sometimes I catch the nose on the up swing because it’s a hair too far forward and the nose doesn’t come up high enough…Usually on a choppy day. A video discussing those nuances of the up stroke vs the down sounds dope to me. Definitely interested in that wisdom! 🤙🏽😎
Thanks for posting this. It really helped me a lot!
This improved my surf pump. I still use a carver on sloped surfaces also.
i need to find something nice and sloped so I can try it. I need to do a part 3 to this. I have been working on unweighting and that has been helping me a lot.
@ 8:21 “You’re not throwing your arms up like someone is pointing a gun at you on a holdup” LOL. Great video, super helpful, thank you! I gotta get a regular skateboard to practice tick tacking!
Good stuff! Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for this. Interesting what you said about using a regular skateboard. I've been practicing weighting and unweighting, compressing and lifting on a Carver, but not tic tacking. I'll have to try that on a regular board (which is what I learned to skate on when i was a kid). I'm definitely not doing that on my waves as much as I should.
This video was perfect man, exactly what I was looking for - I can elaborate if you'd like - but I'll leave it at thank you this will definitely take me to the next level of surfing!
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Thomye could you make a tut, about foot placement during turn pumping etc , i know you have video that speak about it here and here but not a full video about that .
You do such a good job breaking things down and mentioning things that other surf media content doesn’t that I thought I’d drop a couple other ideas for videos if you’re looking for them! 1) board choice for intermediate surfers - I’ve been surfing for 7-8 yrs, rode short boards the majority of that time, but in last year been riding mid lengths. Is this helping or hindering progress? Feel like I struggle a bit when I go back to my short boards. Should I instead ride a baked potato when I need more volume for example? 2) i really loved your tip to go for a second bottom turn and a foam climb - any other little nuggets or gems that have increased your progression? 3) crowd strategy at beach breaks and points 4) reading the ocean / beach observation tips. Good surfers always seem to find waves that no one else sees. Thanks!
One more: wave positioning and wave selection. When do you take off on shoulder vs on the peak vs behind the technique, etc. This is probably the hardest to teach but most important thing of all!
1) I can probably do a video like this. But to answer your question, it depends on the mid-length. Mid-lengths are boards between 6'6 and 8'. But lately, boards like the CI Mid are somewhat throwbacks. they put some traditional attributes that are geared towards people that longboard. But mid-lengths can also be boards that surf like bigger shortboards. If your Mid-length is the traditional type with a bellied bottom, softer 50/50 type rails, thinned out like my seaxe, then it would be hard to go back and forth between it and a shortboard. but if you got one that is more modern with concaves, the same tail as your shortboard (say the last 1.5 ft was exact same outline) but the board was just bigger and thicker, it would be much easier to go back and forth. Having said that, it's not unusual to have difficulty adjusting. I have been riding my Modern2 by Sharpeye and going back to my Twice Baked has been a tad difficult. it takes me a full session or even two to go back. However, going from my Twice back to my Modern2 only takes half a session.
2) I'll try to think of some others
3/4) sort of touched on this in my catch more waves video. this is a hard one to actually execute since many others are thinking the same thing especially advanced surfers. I would say the easiest thing though is to go surf someplace less crowded. Places where there is no parking and you have to walk. Seapoint is a great example, no parking there but only a handful of people make the walk. Same with the spot between Anderson and the Hole (although this place is a tad more fickle).
Sorry for the supper long answer. :)
Thomye Surfs thanks! I’ve been riding a 6.6 christenson nautilus, it feels like a longer shortboard with a pretty pulled in nose and knifey rails etc. I guess I’ll just feel it out and see. Makes sense on all the other answers!
100% agree with you 🤙😉
Thanks for the video, well done. I like your comments about learning tic tacking on a regular skateboard being better than a surfskate. But don't everybody go throw away your surfskates just yet. They can still be great surf training tools and there's some good videos out there. Just avoid the front foot wiggle at all costs...
Agreed. great for learning to carve and weight distribution as well as the best leg exercise that matches surfing.
good video.... i wished i had this video when i was trying to get speed like mick fanning
Yeah. I'm amazed at how much speed he gets off a single bottom turn on a small wave. Granted he could probably squat twice the weight I can.
This is sweet. Hah, can’t believe you were surfing that 1 ft dribble on a hpsb. Never seen videos covering tic tacing although I’ve definitely seen good surfers do it in the water and try to do it myself. I do find that pushing off the bottom of the wave is pretty easy but I struggle more with the top part of the tic tac going up the wave and getting up the wave and then throwing back down where I’ll sometimes catch my outside rail. I think watching you though it seems I need to keep my board flatter though so I don’t catch my rail. Thanks!
Back foot way back helps too. Definitely using a regular skateboard helps too. Especially the 2nd example.
Thomye Surfs it’s weird, I can do it on a skate board but I catch the outside of my heel side rail of my front foot because I’m kind of driving off of it (at least on a skate board) when I do the down movement. Should I actually be focusing more on pushing with my back foot heel to get the front of the nose out of the water so I don’t catch my rail and the just naturally the front of the board will come down? Thanks for all the tips!
@@vantvu so, if you look at the rhythm, i talked about the short stroke and long stroke. Watch Griffin and the Japanese surfer, you will see that at the top of the wave, they tap the board, they are tapping which means that they are using their back foot. you are almost lifting the nose after the tap and pointing it down the wave. the front 3/4 of that board is out of the water when this happens. otherwise, you will catch rail.
Thomye Surfs that’s it! Thanks so much!
Went out and applied what you said focusing on back foot and that fixed it!
great vid!
Hey Thomye, revisisting this! I came back to this just to see how you get to the top of the wave right after the pop....and sure enough at 6:58 you do it....all "real" surfers do this, and I can't seem to get it. JJF, even on a huge wave, before going to the bottom, will do a little stall/pump thing and stay right at the top of the face, even if it is an 8 foot face...Surf Simply instructor in Guiones, smaller wave, same thing...you here at 6:58....For whatever reason, I always seem to go to the bottom, then I can get back to the high line...but I would love to get to the high line immediately, like you do (6:58)...it is almost like it is counter-intuitive for me, especially on steeper waves like we have here...but man, I just cannot get it....any major thought lines for me to focus on when trying to do this in the water? (And I am sorry about the super long comment...I should have just emailed you!)
no worries on the comment. my answers aren't any shorter some times. haha
Taking off at an angle seems to help me as well as focusing my eyes down the. The one thing is, if the wave is super steep and fast, you don't have a choice but to go to the bottom unless you plan to stall. But in this case, we aren't stalling but tring to get down the line quicker.
For getting to your feet and high lining a wave, get in early, stay squatted for a split second longer, make getting up part of your first pump. Apply pressure on the toes. I said in the video to kick your back foot but I should have been more specific and mention that you are also applying pressure specifically to the inside rail. hope that helps a bit.
I'll also try and pay attention to it this weekend and see if I noticed anything else that might help.
Thank u For the video. Really helpful. What do you mean when you say, “kick out the back leg”. I think on the bottom turn
if you watch me do the bottom turn, you should see me doing it. it's sort of like a box jump. looks like a quick pump but mostly with your back foot.
Can you do a backside version of this vid, pretty please?
will do. Been bog down with work and also fishing lately so I have been scatter brained. I will try and do this ASAP. I have a bunch of footage but I think that new footage where I exaggerate some movements need to get shot. stay tuned.
hello tomye i have another question on speed gen that I was wondering. when surfing a really walled up wave thats breaking fast down the line and you have to get around the section, are you pumping more on the inside rail or do you still have to transition rail to rail even when the wave is really steep.
good question. so in this video, I actually brought that up but mentioned I may cover it in a later video. I think I referred to it as vertical pumping in this video. Yes, when vertical pumping, it is all toe side pressure. if you watch speed generation part 2, I sort of go over it. a good way you know if you are doing it right or even enough, is if your heep comes up on your back foot. The front foot isn't that important regarding toe pressure, in fact, i think the front foot is very neutral. Watch that video and maybe I'll need to make a 3rd video to elaborate.
can you make a video on frontside top turn?
and off the lip like at 7:50
@@toreyoishi5282 sure. check out part of of turns. I believe it is a heel side turn which is a frontside top turn or a backside bottom turn. The principles are the same. but I will definitely look into elaborating.
Hi Tommy!! Thank s for all the interesting videos and reviews.
Just a quick advice... I can pop both ways with my old squashed hibrid 32 lt, and I can still do it on my better waves 36 lt rounded tail.
I just can t click with the new 36 lt hibrid pulled in wlswallow tail... Tried different trustee and 2 +1 but it just does t want to move up and down with me forcing for speed.
Any thoughts on this issue? Thank s a lot
does the board have a quad option? Also, how tall is your 32 squash and how tall is your 36 swallow?
@@ThomyeSurfs hi Tommy thank s a lot for coming back to me.
The 32lt is a red peppa Chilli 5'10,than a 6'2 Chilli rare bird, and the flyer pulled it swallow is a 5 11 voodoo redux from JR.
It feel stiff while forcing for speed, but still manovrabile enough on the lip, really stable, and paddle great.
Don t know if I ve gone too big, or just got to be used to the swallow tail doing everything for me...
I m considering trying smaller flexier futures fins. I ve only surfed with large honeycomb neutral template and xl fiberglass 2+1 from captain
@@marcopaoletti5420 I would try one of two things. First, try pivot fins. the Swallow acts like a fin so loosening it up with pivots might be the answer. Also at the initial point of trying to gain speed, Pivots are easier to move around. Once thing to keep in mind is that you can do large fronts with medium rear or medium front with smaller rear. The only bad part is that you have to buy extra fins. Secondly, on the 2+1, you could also try pivot here.
Having said all that, it might end up being something like the rails that might be causing the issue. so many factors from rail, rocker, to fins. as well as fin cant and placement. hopefully pivots help.
@@ThomyeSurfs thank for the advices Tommy, sure I ll try different fins before giving up with it... To many changes from what I m used to... And want to try all the solutions. Maybe with the hold of the swallow and the width of the board I could have gone at 34 lt instead... A tad shorter and more manovrabile.
I may try blackstix in mushi waves as well. Thank s a lot
Hey how tight do you want the trucks to be I. The skateboard?
For tictacking, it doesn't really matter. you are more or less learning to lift the front wheel off the ground just a tad and that side to side motion is what is generating the speed on the ground. in the water, it would be the fins.
Hi! in the minute/seconds 10:11, you did a bottom turn, then a top turn? do you have a video about top turns? or snaps?
I do have a video of heel side turns which is essentially a front side top turn. I can work on a specific video for top turn but then there is so many variations of a top turn. the technique for all are the same, just different parts of the wave or a longer hold of keeping the front leg straight. Anyways, take a look and let me know if you think you need more detail.
@@ThomyeSurfs thanks! first! sorry for my english! im from argentine!, second, my bottom turn is good!, but i would like to know what is de top turn easier from learn (this will be my first top turn).
@@mirco_martin the first top turn I learned myself was an off the lip. I used an oncoming section and did a rebound. maybe I'll do a video about that. but an off the lip was easiest for me because there was something to push my board back down vs learning how to turn back down.
@@ThomyeSurfs thanks! i will search videos about that
@@ThomyeSurfs in which minute is the manouver off the lip. I couldnt find it. Thanks. Please update the channel with more video love it!
what board are u riding here?
That is the Twice Baked by Firewire. It is 5'3 X 21-1/4" X 2-3/8" @ 31.6 L. I'm 5'8 and weigh 145lbs.