Varsol is what most people use for cleaning parts not W-40 that is way to expensive and it's not really a penetrating oil eighter it's a water displacement..other than that very good video on the tear down I just finit figuring out how to test down mine washed out all the old grease and put all new fresh lucus red high performance super tacky in place wired wheeled the axil shafts inside and out and greased those as well as never seize..have fun outing the axil back together took me three times before I got the gears to line up right but being half blind don't help .. But being the first time the 1973 John Deere 7 26 Snow Blower was ever rebuild and total restoration only thing left is have the decals made up for it since there not available anymore having them custom made is going to be expensive but it was my father's old machine I remember him buying it new at the dealership back in 1973 and it cost $441. Back then and that machine is three times the machine compared to the new one's.. liquid wrench chain lube works great and there always is a little slop in the trans axil. I also used kevlar belts they hold up better put new drive friction disk and before I painted the auger blades I ground them in a few different locations for cutting through hard snow in also thinking of putting rubber in the impeller area to help throw the snow better but you have to leave just a little gap between the impeller blades and drum area but not too loose I seen this done and it helps throw the wet heavy snow better. After I got it all assembled I got a couple of spray cans of Depont Teflon spray and. Sprayed the Shute and Auger area for the snow slides off easily and won't stick to the parts all the bushings I drilled holes and put grease fittings in so it can be serviced more often during the season is even skipping a season of tearing it down even the control rods and leavers were dismantled and cleaned up and serviced with fresh grease and never seize as well as liquid wrench chain lube and never seize even gave an electric start on it since it always was a hard machine to start one week after Dad bought the machine he put one on but it went for the craps at the end of last season so I replaced it with a new one I made up a small extension cord from the plug to the handle bars to keep plugged into the starter so I don't pull the prongs out of the starter it's easier to repair an extension cord end than taking the starter off or fix it was my thought. My next project is making up a light kit for it using a 20 volt tool battery and voltage regulator thing for 12:volts DC current and voltage meter with a switch so I don't drain the battery empty or the battery will become crap make up a bracket to hold the battery and things put a little LED light where I walk and LED light on the machine thinking one on the top of chute to see where it's throwing & one facing forward with a total of 3 lights I may go with a fourth light to aim right where I blowing to see what is happening right in front of the machine just those little LED add on car lights would work good enough.
At the moment i dont recall exactly . Its been a couple years since i looked at it. but there is a star on the left wheel that tightens or loosens the diff and makes it cause the wheels to lock together more or not.
What threw me is that when you turn one wheel, the opposite wheel was turning in the same direction. With a differential it should rotate in the opposite direction. Because the inner shaft was rusted to the outer, it caused that effect making the differential ineffective. Where you able to free up those shafts? How has the machine been performing?
Great video! Thank you so much
You're very welcome!
You should use low temp grease 00 in the gear case
Thanks.
Varsol is what most people use for cleaning parts not W-40 that is way to expensive and it's not really a penetrating oil eighter it's a water displacement..other than that very good video on the tear down I just finit figuring out how to test down mine washed out all the old grease and put all new fresh lucus red high performance super tacky in place wired wheeled the axil shafts inside and out and greased those as well as never seize..have fun outing the axil back together took me three times before I got the gears to line up right but being half blind don't help ..
But being the first time the 1973 John Deere 7 26 Snow Blower was ever rebuild and total restoration only thing left is have the decals made up for it since there not available anymore having them custom made is going to be expensive but it was my father's old machine I remember him buying it new at the dealership back in 1973 and it cost $441. Back then and that machine is three times the machine compared to the new one's.. liquid wrench chain lube works great and there always is a little slop in the trans axil.
I also used kevlar belts they hold up better put new drive friction disk and before I painted the auger blades I ground them in a few different locations for cutting through hard snow in also thinking of putting rubber in the impeller area to help throw the snow better but you have to leave just a little gap between the impeller blades and drum area but not too loose I seen this done and it helps throw the wet heavy snow better.
After I got it all assembled I got a couple of spray cans of Depont Teflon spray and. Sprayed the Shute and Auger area for the snow slides off easily and won't stick to the parts all the bushings I drilled holes and put grease fittings in so it can be serviced more often during the season is even skipping a season of tearing it down even the control rods and leavers were dismantled and cleaned up and serviced with fresh grease and never seize as well as liquid wrench chain lube and never seize even gave an electric start on it since it always was a hard machine to start one week after Dad bought the machine he put one on but it went for the craps at the end of last season so I replaced it with a new one I made up a small extension cord from the plug to the handle bars to keep plugged into the starter so I don't pull the prongs out of the starter it's easier to repair an extension cord end than taking the starter off or fix it was my thought.
My next project is making up a light kit for it using a 20 volt tool battery and voltage regulator thing for 12:volts DC current and voltage meter with a switch so I don't drain the battery empty or the battery will become crap make up a bracket to hold the battery and things put a little LED light where I walk and LED light on the machine thinking one on the top of chute to see where it's throwing & one facing forward with a total of 3 lights I may go with a fourth light to aim right where I blowing to see what is happening right in front of the machine just those little LED add on car lights would work good enough.
That's an amazing comment. Easiky the best one I've ever gotten...or ever even SEEN. Thanks for sharing all the useful information!
So what is the purpose of the differential if the both right and left shafts are pinned together? Am I missing something?
At the moment i dont recall exactly . Its been a couple years since i looked at it. but there is a star on the left wheel that tightens or loosens the diff and makes it cause the wheels to lock together more or not.
What threw me is that when you turn one wheel, the opposite wheel was turning in the same direction. With a differential it should rotate in the opposite direction. Because the inner shaft was rusted to the outer, it caused that effect making the differential ineffective. Where you able to free up those shafts? How has the machine been performing?