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I Demolished My Primitive Kiln, Here's Why
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2022
- I built this little primitive brick kiln in my backyard in spring 2021. Since then I have made several improvements and figured out how to easily get it to my desired temperature. After this firing in which I discuss the best way to reach a good temperature, I looked at my results, thought about the effectiveness of this kiln in getting the results I want and decided to change directions.
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Short story, there is no substitute for an open fire, especially when replicating ancient pottery that was fired that way. Onward and upward. If you want to learn more about open firing pottery here is a playlist of videos on that subject ruclips.net/p/PLxjk09ZJzrlsyEo-ickFHnMDwQBT1HP5b
Gracias...
Such a cool idea , maybe my next camping adventure I try it. Painting , firing clay in open fire for a week or so … hmm … sounds fun.
Kiln, you're fired.
LOL
Lol good one !
I find these “fails” to be valuable, extremely valuable.
I’m also grateful that you are humble enough to post these failures.
You remind me of Thomas Edison searching for the ideal light bulb filament ( the little metal wire inside the glass light bulb that makes the light). Edison tried about 1,000 different setups before he found “the one”. He said the first 999 times he learned what not to do. They were not failures, just steps towards success.
So thanks to you and Edison and the early potters, all.
And last seeing the flops conditions us for failure when we have ‘um.
Sincerely,
Pete
Hi Andy. I’m from Australia and have been watching your videos for about 4 months now. I love them, although I’m not a potter. I particularly enjoy your honesty: the successes and the failures. You present your creations warts and all, and that’s why I continue to watch your videos. As an aside I have a good friend in Melbourne here who is the spitting image of you, although he is a little older. He is a jazz musician and you would pass as brothers! Thanks once again for sharing your unique talent. I deeply appreciate it.
Thanks for watching. I am learning just like everyone else and nothing is more instructional than a failure.
I’m not a potter and I’m new to your channel, but I’m loving the sheer depth of this world that you open up here. The fact that some folks use a lion and you use open fires, glazes versus painting, coiling versus throwing versus paddles, it’s all so fascinating to me. Your style is very honest and pleasant too. Thanks for sharing your corner of humanity to the world!
Thanks a lot, I am glad to provide a glimpse into a different way of making pottery.
If you want to try one last thing before you dismantle it, you could try using a pipe to get some fresh air right below the pottery, because the fresh air would be heated by the flames but not as much as if it was mixed into the flames, which would help lower the temperature in the middle of the pottery pile, and it would also add more oxygen to avoid the reduction atmosphere. You might have to experiment with a few different pipe diameters, to find one which doesn't add so much fresh air that the temperature drops significantly, but also doesn't add so little that it doesn't really change much. For conventional kilns, you would need a dakota fireplace (without the fire) with a raised inner chimney which to get closer to the pottery, and between that inner chimney and the intake of the dakota fireplace you need to have both the kiln walls and some room for fuel to be placed and burn, but this could be done by the natives, even though I don't know if it was used for something like that.
Similar solutions have been suggested to me, but in my mind this would remove the "primitive" aspects of the kiln and these kilns were not used traditionally around here anyway. Thanks for the info though, someone else here may be able to use it.
Sayonara old kiln. Glad you posted this before I imitated it.
I think it would be good for some things but it is a poor substitute for the traditional open fire.
Not sure if you'll read this since this video is over a year old and you've probably moved on with this type of kiln, but your comment towards the end about using a brick enclosure instead of a mortar-sealed kiln is probably right on point. Over at the "Primitive Technology" channel, when he built his brick kiln, he never sealed the gaps between his bricks with mud either. True, he used quite a lot of wood but I think the extra gaps allowed more oxygen to come in. The inside of his kilns are never black or discolored and his pots and bricks are always red.
Hey Andy, I actually love the patina you achieved ! Re the firing of that updraft kiln I would definitely not cover the pottery with those sherds, that will create different temperatures and play with the atmosphere... I would also cut the wood smaller and have a longer wood feed. Nice video, Cheers
Thanks for the tips but I'm ready to move on. Hopefully your comments will help someone else here.
i agree the sherds of pottery against the smaller bowls and having the heat come up from the bottom was not a good combo. Usually he used the sherds to keep the fire off the outsides in this case it was keeping the flames near the pot. great video and i also love the pottery!
My son and I came to the same conclusion in the past few weeks. Last summer we built a kiln after your example but have decided that, since Ohio pottery would not have been done like this, we're gonna do it the way they did it; pre-heat and pit fire. We are also letting go of painting pottery and will focus more on construction of the pots following traditional designs. I think I'll try to do more pipes as well. Thank you for another great video and glad we are still on the same wave length.
There is no substitute for an open fire. Unfortunately, there are times when you can't fire that way because of fire danger.
@@AncientPottery Thanks Andy for showing us how to do the open fire-firing... thankfully we almost never have fire danger except in the early dry spring in tall dry grass...otherwise we're good to go.
@@crowstudios300 that's the best part of Ohio firing, I never have to worry about fire spreading where I ten to do it in a borderline swamp
Good to know. The analysis was thorough.
Good to hear, thanks.
I just discovered your channel a few days ago when looking for primitive firing ideas and I was all set to build my own little kiln, modeled on this one. Imagine my surprise when I opened up YT this morning and this video was the first suggestion on my list. Talk about timely information! I have really enjoyed watching and learning from your videos and I really appreciate your honest assessment of this kiln. I used to own a studio in Chandler years ago and have really been itching to get back to playing in the mud, but now I live on an island with no access to a kiln, and even though I have reached out to the community on several occasions to see if a private artist would let me pay for a little kiln space, I have had no luck finding anyone willing to do that. I am going to look at the other gentleman's kiln which you mention in this video and have a go at that one as soon as our burn ban has been lifted. Thank you, again, for sharing your valuable knowledge!
Thanks for being a new subscriber. I think a kiln like this would be great if you cared more about getting a good hard firing using a minimum of wood. But if you are trying to make oxidized red ware and an oxidizing atmosphere is important, then there are better choices. Have you watched this video yet? ruclips.net/video/ztLn3BsYuJ8/видео.html
Most people don’t want to “ share kiln space” because if your stuff explodes it could break other people’s work. If it melts, it will stick to the shelves. If you want to pay for one private firing, then just make enough pieces to make it worthwhile for one private firing. If ever your pieces melted or broke a shelf, you could just pay for that shelf...
I paid 20$ for a private firing, one of my pieces broke but the others were fine.
Been studying kiln design, in particular the Olsen Kiln Book, and I'm convinced the trouble you had with kilns is related to the lack of a tall chimney. Of course I understand a tall chimney may be impossible where you live. I just watched another YT video of a firing of a kiln very much like yours here, and he seemed to get very similar temperature results. I do think if you find yourself with the opportunity to build another kiln with a tall chimney, you could have more control over your firings (e.g. oxidation vs. reduction, heat-up time), burn less wood for the same result, and probably have the option of higher temperature firings. I understand pit firing has its own charm, though, and the lack of required infrastructure is appealing.
I appreciate the knowledge you share in these videos.
I think if oxidation is what you’re looking for, then you’re going to have to build a kiln that allows the heat and air to draft across the pottery. You’re getting reduction from that kind of build. You would need a kiln with a firebox in the front, a chamber for the pots, and a draft chimney at the back. Optimally, some vent holes that you could open and shut to control oxygen and temperature would also help.
Check out Bill Warner’s kiln. It does what I need.
Andy, where would I find Bill's kiln?
Something like ancient Romans did
I am thinking the opposite. What if your thermacouple is hotter than everything else? The heat getting radiated off the bricks is transfering to the air, and that hole is sucking more oxygen and reburning the fuels that didn't burn properly from the opening.
Impossible, my thermocouple only registered about 840 C and yet several of the pots show signs of overfiring.
Nice experiment. Very educational, thanks.
Thank you!
I learned a lot from this. I didn't know what too hot looked like. It's good to know what doesn't work. I'll be looking forward to seeing your next setup. 😊
Glad I could be of help today.
Me too ...just at the start of wanting to do pottery in my wood store or fireplace. Now I have learned a lot from this video and the comments! The efforts of all here is valuable!!!
Not that I'm an expert by any means, but from what I've learned about reduction firing both from the experts and my own experiences with gas I would hazard to speculate that there's not enough air circulation around the pots to feed the fuel. Maybe it's a question of pacing the fuel more...? Just thinking out loud. Thank you for sharing this, always something to learn.
I don't think anything in this kiln load reduced, they just didn't oxidize strongly enough, maybe what they call a "neutral" atmosphere. But I was looking for oxidation for my red wares.
I was having similar issues with this type kiln. (Mostly mine was cracking 9 out of 10 pots) I switched to Steve Mills Philosopher’s Kiln. The way I set mine up, the fire does not touch the pottery and it is pure convection heat. No direct heat. I don’t know if this was done in the Primitive South West, I think it is more colonial or English style. With this style the cracking is minimal, about 1 out of 10 and the color is much more consistent. Also, I am making small adjustment with every firing. At this point I am close to glazing temps.
That's cool, I'll look at that. But my interest in this kiln was a way to fire in town and to save wood and there are other ways to do that. And no, prehistoric people in my area did not use kilns.
AS I see it his reflects the difference between a pyrometer and infrared gun when using wood heat. The cover sherds retain the heat locally and a range of temperature in the kiln is to be expected. I have built a cross flow with a chimney to avoid to use of cover sherds. Cheers
Thanks for the insight.
@@AncientPottery I had the first test firing today, 840 degrees C after 3 hours. I will video the outcome tomorrow, it's all wild clay from the Lincolnshire fens. Cheers
@@TheInfoworks awesome.
@@AncientPottery, just uploaded the video on kiln completion and the test firing. I would appreciate your comments, especially about the results, cheers
I'm looking forward to version 5.0. It would be interesting to know how hot it really got but it probably explains why the glaze was so good. There's always more to learn. Thank you.
Yes, you are correct, it was strangely hot on the inside of the stack.
This was a great follow-up. Thank you.
Thank you
Well your original kiln video (with this kiln) was my first video of yours that I watched and why I joined your channel originally. And why I built a nearly identical kiln to yours. I have already modified it by extending the front by another brick. From my memory of your earlier firings with this kiln you had less items in it and no cover sherds. I think that was part of your problem that you had it overfilled and over covered. I hope your next kiln pleases you more.
It was an ongoing problem, I have fired with and without cover sherds with similar problems. I am glad you found my kiln video helpful. I'm not saying that a primitive kiln is not good or useable, it just doesn't work well for what I am trying to do. Those videos will stay out there helping people who are interested in building these and I don't want to discourage those people which this video, it's just that I am personally moving in a different direction. I hope you enjoy your kiln and will continue to enjoy my other, non-kiln content.
I’m so sorry to hear you’re giving up on this effort. Thank you for all of your experience and insights. Greatly appreciate your videos.
Thank you so much. This was very informative to me. I'm trying hard to understand all this.
Glad to help.
Cool video this is why I didn't fire my pottery like this most of the time I get cracking
Honestly it's a delicate thing, I believe it could be figured out but I have no desire, my motivation was to burn less wood and to be able to fire in town. There are other, better ways to accomplish that.
Thank you for the informative video
Out with the old and in with the new!
Yep, gotta keep moving forward.
Waiting on your ancestral pueblo video this is a sign.
Signed an eagerly waiting subscriber
My guess, red slip iron is partially reducing to maghemitite . Sure would love some of that white clay that crackled !
I'll give you some, it comes from the Mogollon Rim.
@@AncientPottery there is a large jar in your Tucson museum that look a whole lot like what your white pot did, a crackled surface ! Thanks Andy I would love to sample some. Maybe we can trade a few things in October
@@AncientPottery where on the rim? My Sister lives in Payson, so I'd like to have her mail me some. (back here to Michigan. ) Love your videos
I guess I will say thanks for saving me the trouble!
If I made this mug in some bricks in my back yard I'd be so stoked... :D
Well yeah, I mean it wasn't all bad, I don't hate the kiln or anything I just want to do things differently from now on
No.!.what a shame , all the effort you have put into it, but if the results are not what your expecting,move on ..hard decision but the right one. Good timing on the video as i was on the verge of building one myself. But im having good results in my Soares style open brick kiln, sometimes i use charcoal /wood mix or just charcoal.With a bucket or cover sherds. Also make a tee pee arrangement like surface fire inside , just keeps all the wood in place .And adjust the height and spacing for air gaps when ever so very adaptable..if you want more or less oxidization ..One more option is to easy dismantle in winter ...been great to watch your progress
There are many ways to turn mud into ceramics, this is just one. Thanks
I like everything that came out of your kiln. They look awesome!!
It didn’t meet my standards, but to each their own. I’m sure I was doing something wrong, I hope to get it figured out someday.
I hope you continue to make videos for this playlist. I'm curious to see where you go next with these kilns. I'm thinking of trying to do this. Fantastic information! Thanks for putting these videos out!
Will do, thanks
And I was thinking of two things as you were stoking the fire, that cheap-looking pine wood (leftovers from something) and the placement of the temperature gauge. With you mentioning the unevenness of measureing temp., perhaps it would prove beneficial to have two temp. gauges, one in the middle and one in the outer circle. And the wood did not seem ripe- if the burning atmosphere of the wood, the chemicals within, could have an effect on how the glazes react? Now, we'll never know. When I was young, many years ago,I was interested in pottery and did a couple of weekend courses, and was very impressed with how little one needed to mould clay, the different methods of achieving a form, and the very small earthen Raku oven. I remembered all the terminology used and thought how much I'd like to do some of the red clay you do. Looking forward to seeing the results of your next firing. Good luck. I loved your designs and shapes. Normlly I m not so fond of this type of design. I think the colour of the clay makes its so sppealing.
I just fired yesterday in a big open fire, lots of good oxidized pottery. Thanks
When you press the wood deeper in the kiln you are effectively turning parts of the wood into charcoal before burning it due to the firebox fire using all the oxygen. Therefore increasing the temperature
The crackling you showed reminds me of raku pottery firing , when temps drop fast they get the crackling effect look , have a look at those pottery firings , maybe you got the crackles from temperature dropping to quickly. Just a thought. 👍
Thanks for that idea
Nice video … I love the last mug lol you say it’s ghostly , I like ghostly.
My burner system is done , build my gas kiln in September. Highly experimental , but in some ways primitive , using earthenware clay Amd it’s an updraft kiln.
Well it’s totally usable because it’s not cracked or anything.
excellent - thank you
Glad you liked it!
Guess it's a bit late to suggest a rebuild, but one of the things I would advise on a future build is putting your pots up higher in a similarly shaped kiln if you're after oxidation. The atmosphere tends to favor reduction the further down/closer you are to the heat source (firebox) as the fire is sucking in as much oxygen as it can gobble up. Without using a forced air solution, you're depending on ambient pressure to supply the in-draft which has a geometric and mathematical preference to length, opening, flow, and a hundred little variances that have a larger net effect.
As an example, I helped redesign a fellow's outdoor burn fireplace as he kept complaining of black smoke chasing everyone away. Any time you see that, it's incomplete combustion, so I outlined how to open up his primary feed routes, add secondary and tertiary air supply holes in a reused steel feed trough, and ba bam, hot clean fire.
Using just ambient air pressure, I'd opt for the round chamber design and axe the inflow chute (for backyard purposes where it's difficult at best to get a strong, steady draft, having 360* on possible inflow at the base works better, unless you have a known draft angle between two buildings without a fence in the way for example). Mix that with a bit of jet engine know-how and you'd have a very efficient kiln that can play with a lot of different firing techniques simply by varying where you put your pots in the firing chamber. Having a removable top dome with an exit flue would be a nice option to concentrate the exhaust and reflect some of the heat, but takes a bit more work to get them to survive repeat fires. Definitely doable, and done yourself, affordably too!
I've been studying the notes of a potter who fired in one of these for years. And my one big takeaway is the variability of outcomes. The flame impingement on the pottery and the firebox loading seem to result in wildly different results and sometimes difficulty getting the oxidation you want. They have their advantages but I can fire pretty darn consistently on the surface of the ground.
@@AncientPottery That is definitely an advantage of an open fire. You'll never be lacking in oxidation! Overall, I would say kilns by nature prefer and produce reduction and neutral atmospheres just due to design. With the only catch on an open fire being lower thermal efficiency (well, two, with the open flame when fire season rolls around) I give top marks to it for simplicity and the fun that accompanies random chance. 👍
@@C-M-E much more efficient and also safer.
Hey not sure if it helps but one way you can help control your heat output is with your wood selection. Look up btu output of wood you are using. I run a small farm and heat a greenhouse with a wood stove and wood selection is very important. Some wood burns very hot others will be just warm.
Good thought. In this case I was using old pallet wood which is great for recycling but bad for knowing what species it is.
Your pottery still looks pretty cool even if it was not what you were aiming at.
Yeah I'm not throwing any of it away, and with the plain ware, who cares. But I am frustrated with the kiln ruining my decorated pottery.
I love your videos. Very informative. And you are the first American that consistently uses celsius which is so nice 😊😊😊
Thanks. It's funny, I only use Celsius for pottery firing because I read archaeological publications and then want to match the temperatures they cite which are always in Celsius. Otherwise I am strictly a Fahrenheit guy.
I am just in the process of building my kiln out of bricks. It'll be a dual smoker as well with removable metal stacking shelves. toI thought I'd make a first level metal base for the pottery to sit on which will cover the flaming fire. The heat will be directly under the metal sheet and get out around the perimeter of the sheet that will have legs to hold it up above the wood space. I'm making it rectangle with a concrete base. This will also be a smoke house for meats, thus the first level of metal cover sheet that keeps the wood flames from licking up will protect the meat from burning and allow the heat to rise up alone. It will have an opening to place the wood through, similar like the one in your video, to put the fire in. It'll stand about 3' high. I thought I would have a metal lid for the top with vents to release smoke or some heat. What is the recommended temperature for firing earth clay and for how long? What would you recommend for a thermocouple? I've looked on Amazon but there are many choices.
If you get to 800 C even for a minute or two your pots will be just fine. Here is a link to a pyrometer like the one I use shop.clay-planet.com/aci-analog-pyrometer.aspx
Kept misreading the title as I Demolished My Primitive Kin. Dude, they're family!
Ha ha
Thank You
Is there a video where I can find some more details about that black paint you used? I’d love to learn more about it…
Thanks. The flat black paint is described here ruclips.net/video/Dqp8ePhg7Wk/видео.html The glaze paint is described here ruclips.net/video/DRCrKcaNBD0/видео.html
@@AncientPottery thanks!
Think about the generations of people who started figuring this all out thousands of years ago and then passed the lore along. I'll bet the thermocouple did need to be centered better. Really interesting video. Thanks for sharing your investigations!
i think a simpler kiln would have worked better. like Primitive Technology uses in his most recent videos. firegrate extending front to back and its open on both sides so you can feed wood from both. he made a lot of pottery(some quite large pieces) and hunderds of bricks using that and it all looked alright considering the clay he uses.
Perhaps but my problem wasn't the temperature I was reaching, it was more the atmosphere. And my goals and those of the guy on the Primitive Technology channel are completely different. He is making practical, functional things, and I am trying to make beautifully decorated polychrome pottery, I think if he were trying to create polychrome in his kiln he might be just as frustrated.
When I have watched you use that kiln I keep thinking of the one used on Primitive Technology when he fires bricks and tiles. Different purposes in the work and product, but they almost always come out bright red over there.
If I were making functional things like him I would be satisfied with it too. Because I am making decorated polychrome pottery my standards and goals are much different.
Beautiful results IMO.
The grayish collors could be due to ash falling on the pots and melting, because of the high temperatures. Just a theory.
Maybe but it doesn't look glazey at all. But my knowledge of ash glaze in nil.
Thanks!
Thanks a lot Janet!
So interesting to see the different goals and methods. To me even the pots you criticize are looking great. I always like when the red clay gets some color variation :D
So far I only fired with gas. Commercial pottery equipment had always been to expensive for me so I use a self made gas kiln. Someday I'd like to try wood or coal firing pots. I appreciate your approach. Seeing different methods and hearing different opinions is so important. I remember when I brought my first pots to a local art supply store that had an electric kiln the owner told me I could use milk for sealing my pots. Of course I though that's crazy. I'm happy you talk about those methods. Great skills and knowledge. Your chanel is a gem.
Thank you for sharing.
You're welcome
Speaking from the viewpoint of having a carpenter husband, I noticed one piece that you added to your kiln had nails. My husband has told me many times that burning treated wood or wood with nails in it adds chemicals to the fire and smoke that could be toxic and could easily change the colors. Something to consider…
I was using old pallet wood, I doubt those few nails were the cause of the atmosphere problems I was experiencing, but I won't be experimenting further to find out now. Thanks for that insight.
To low temperature to change anything in Andy's firing. Palette wood is very good for firing.
Thank you for the comment. I thought the wood was probably fine, if it was from a pallet. I thought the nails might have been a problem. Appreciate the more informed view!
It’s torn down now, but I wonder if being hotter, you could have reserved it for clay that needed higher temperatures.
I have never run across a clay that needed to fire hotter than about 800 C which is about average for the prehistoric pottery I am replicating and is easily achieved in my open firings. But yes, it would be useful for reaching higher temperatures if those were desired.
My problem with my Pottery was my fire got too hot and my clay may have had some organic stuff in it that burnt out and I had too much to sand in the clay
I hope you got it figured out now.
As a non potter and having nothing to do with pottery I think these items are lovely and don't see the discolouration as flaws lol it looks perfect to me
you need a taller chimney to draw in more air or use bellows to blow air into your kiln
I think it has to do with the height of your chimney if the chimney is Too Tall it might create a rocket stove type effect which creates very high temperatures at the core and cooler along the sides
Absolutely love your videos.
Thanks
I have a recurring problem with wild clay, first in Sweden, now in Greece. I discovered an Iron Age hillfort mainly thanks to local tortoises burrowing and digging out ceramics of all kinds, but mostly hand-made burnished ones. Now I'm trying to localize what was their source of clay, but everywhere around the hill it is an unsorted sandy, stony soil. The only clay i found was at the bottom of a small dried out river which also has quite a lot of silt in it. So I levigated it, but the clay I get is so weak, it is really hard to make it hold. I don't put more temper in it presuming it would just make things worse. Did you already have this problem, because I had the same problem in a totally different context in Sweden and I am starting to wonder if the clay I find is clay at all - I distinguished it by the cracked surface on the bottom of the small dry river. It's a bit dispairing, makes me want to get back to the bought clay that worked so well with added temper. But obviously these people from the "Tortoise Hillfort" did have access to some good clay and their houses were also made of clay which often burned, so I'm still trying to solve the mystery of their clay ressources.
Some times finding the ancient people's clay source can be challenging. What I find around here is that it most often has a car park over the top of it.
You mentioned about post firing before, can you prove that it works so i can paint my pot with organic paint because i have no special slips.
Post firing organic paint? Just try it, it's easy and can't hardly be messed up, paint on the organic material, and then just heat the pots until the paint turns black, this can be done by sitting them near a fire.
I'll try but i dont think its going to be permanent
i do see an issue that might be happening in your kiln, you should use a wider air box under the wood box. and you should be pushing more air in. opening another hole is just going to make the interior unevenly heated. the air coming in through the front goes through the fire to make a heated air. the air being pushed through the side is cold and mixing with the hot air. making a lot of potential thermal shock... thats why your getting cracking.
Good job
Thanks
Well, too bad the experiment failed.
I'm new here. Awesome stuff :)
Welcome aboard!
@@AncientPottery thanks!
I built a primitive Kiln using just clay soil that I pounded into a brick mold and used slip as a mortar. While I am proud of the build and it can produce red coloured, water proof ceramic it NEVER reaches the proper temperature and the result is always very weak/fragile
In all, I personally believe that the construction of a kiln was actually too specific to just wing it as I did.
Maybe it’s your clay
The pots are really beautiful, but it's just that one small detail that could mess the whole thing up that sucks.
A lot of things are like that
I approve of the memey intro. Very good.
Thanks a lot!
You are certainly a better man than I, for I would do this experiment and not take the temperature at all, and probably fail.
i think it has something to do with the pre heating, i've seen some kiln just like that where im from in a remote village that has been producing earthenware for almost a millenia, they always preheat the pottery outside before putting it in the kiln, the potter said controlling the heat in the kiln is the most difficult part and he did this without any thermometer because that is what their ancestor were doing. It seems like you need to be an expert to do it.
I know nothing about primitive kilns, but could the fact that it sits up next to the building have anything to do with it? Maybe the air circulation could be a problem? Just an idea…
No it had plenty of space around it and between the kiln and the wall, lots of air was available.
@@AncientPottery ok…. That was my only guess as to what might have been wrong. I hope the new one works well for you🐝🤗❤️
How about adding a bellows to add more oxygen when needed and to keep the temperature up. It could exhaust the fuel near the end, add oxygen and then get it to cool more quickly. Not an expert, just a thought.
Definitely would add heat to the fire but might not solve me issues.
I think the bottom having only the one opening to insert wood means the fire was in a oxygen starved state, so would be a reductive atmosphere and resist oxidation.
Do you make those bricks by yourself as well? If so, could you make a video about it 🙂
No they were purchased at the Home Depot.
i bought an electric kiln. $1 to fire instead of $5 worth of firewood. i had very little success with wood fired. i am firing my local clay to 1945F. wood cannot do that. i had a hard time melting soda cans, which is 1220/660c. there are some big wood burning kilns that make high temps in yt videos, but they are big brick things.
With my clay, an open fire is just like a sledgehammer, good for breaking and that is it.
Your clay needs temper and lots of it. This kiln was turning nails into blobs of metal.
Are the crackled pieces still functional? Water tight? Is it just aesthetic problems with the heat? I am looking at your channel from survivalist point of view. I wanna know how to make a plate and a mug, and containers for hauling water to eat. Being pretty would be secondary to me.
Yes, if it is just surface cracks then it would still be functional
Hey friend, i got some stuff that looked a lot like a good strong white clay... it felt very sticky and plastic when wet but after dry it destroys very easily into powder when pressed... What can it be? i swear it was white clay !!!
Not everything that feels like clay is clay, there's a good chance that what you have is something else, try giving it an acid test, drip a little vinegar or something else acidic on it and see if it fizzes
@@AncientPottery thanks for the info friend. I was so sure i had the best clay in the world XD XD
I enjoyed this video,sincerely,A.H
I'll bet your comments get a lot of thumbs down.
Ben watching you vids for awhile still love them and the insights you give im getting better but way below your standard.
Sometimes you have to ditch things that don't work!
Definitely
Your black paint failed....something i have incurred with an open fire many times.......??? Great video...ever goood...
Not sure what you are saying. Your black paint failed or is this something I said in this video. Thanks
@@AncientPottery Just noticed the black paint in the video failed.....I have had similar failures in an open fire....who knows why.....my manganese was bought online.....I have moved on to copper carb it worked but then failed it the last fire......had hoped to arrive at some level where I could produce painted pots but am back to square one....not much to do but try again....so many variables ...clays, temper, the firing, ....thanks
Andy, I'm confused a bit by all the brick kiln videos, and what worked best for you. I see you reference "Bill Warner's Kiln" here. Is there a video for that build? I searched but can't find it!
Here it is, sorry for the confusion ruclips.net/video/o4fCJfejiiQ/видео.html
@@AncientPottery Thanks a bunch Andy! Just getting into pottery and your site is wonderful and very informative!
Super content .I will do the first outdoor firing in a couple of days .What do you recommend?do it only with woods or do it in a brick kiln ,witch one has a better success rate?
Open fire if you have the ability. If not try the charcoal fire, have you seen this one? ruclips.net/video/ztLn3BsYuJ8/видео.html
Is that one you're using now like Tony's firing?
I’ll take the mug!
Cuántos ladrillos se necesitan...aprox.?
It is in the video where I built it ruclips.net/video/t692w4byVrw/видео.html
But I do not remember that number now
Gracias👍
Are they regular bricks or those home depot firebricks?
I want to make one of those shorter kilns you now use?
They are just regular clay bricks. Not the concrete paver bricks, make sure they are made from clay and not cement.
@@AncientPottery Thanks Andy..... I am in the process of dry processing right now and i already did your wet processing method and it worked out really well
👍
If you would allow my feedback, I believe you are too hard on your yourself. These pieces look great and no one would know it was supposed to be more red, for instance. I would love to have one of these and be none the wiser of the color it was 'supposed to be'
Hi, after fire.. all my bowl n cup becomes black.. may i know how to remove the burt on the bowl n cup?
I couldn’t find the video about Bill Warner’s kiln.
Here it is ruclips.net/video/o4fCJfejiiQ/видео.html
@@AncientPottery Thanks!
maybe the cracking is due to temperature oscillation during firing? just a wild guess.
Maybe, although it hadn't been a problem in the past with this kiln. Anyway its all history now.
would it be possible to hit 2k degrees, if so how wld i accomplish that?
Would a tanoor work?
👍👍👍👍👍
Normally your open fairings were about 680°C 720°C 😳
You have any give away pots?
Sure but will probably give to a student at my next workshop, why don't you sign up?
@@AncientPottery is that online?
What’s a reduction atmosphere and why is it bad?
Lack of oxygen, it is bad only if you are hoping to achieve bright colors