This is the best vid I seen on this. So many fail to mention cleaning the ground connection. Mine burned up at the alternator ! It literally took fire ! Dead of winter but had just pulled up and parked...through snow on it ! Put in brand new Bosch alternator cleaned ALL connections. The one under the battery was disgusting someone had "fixed" it before and stripped the insulation way back and didnt re-tape or heat shrink it. Although my box was ok I now carry a spare. My core problem however started with a weak but still "OK" battery. Never run a boarderline battery in your VW.
Thanks a bunch for these tips, our VW Polo 05 runs like new, I followed every one of them, replaced all fuses and got the melted fuse box fixed after every connection and terminal in the harness carefully polished
I am having the same issue and this really helped. The only issue I had with the video was that it was very hard to hear what was being said, but still very helpful, thanks.
I love you very much man. Your accent suggests I will never pull up next to you when you need a wrench and that makes me sad. I am roundly and thoroughly convinced that I'm going to take my battery out. I will leave the battery box and make a power box for these things. I'm getting rid of the backseat and going to a two-seater model with a giant battery box behind the front seat heavy and low and deep. Set it up with a good charger, in 100 ft cord. I'm doing this hillbilly hybrid gig three-seater. I want to put a chair for the mechanic that's it in under the hood where the battery used to be. If I eliminated the alternator would I lose my tachometer on the diesel motor?
Thank you so very much! I have been struggling with my bug having this problem for 5 years now… been through 3 new cars and couldn’t bring myself to get rid of it because I was determined to fix the mysterious electrical problems and you have done it for me!! Thank you!!
Where can i buy the supplies to make the alternator cable? And what size cable did you use and the name of the pieces I need. I would really appreciate your help. I'm having this issue and I've replaced the fuse box twice.😀
@@anthonyhuffman3877 YOU GUYS NEED 4 GAUGE WELDING CABLE AND, 4 GAUGE 5/16 TINNED COPPER LUGS AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST: HYDRAULIC WIRE CRIMPER($60). Please for the love of god, do not buy Car audio FAKE copper coated aluminum wire otherwise you will end up with a worse fire. IF YOU ARE IN THE USA HARBOR FREIGHT HAS THE Wire crimpers, The ones on amazon suck unless you buy the temco. My harbor freight is a clone of the temco and kicks ass. The wire you can get at AIRGAS or a welding supply store but its cheaper to buy online. IF YOU DON'T WANT TO CRIMP YOUR OWN LUGS ON(easy to do) They sell premade 4 AWG battery cables but they are overpriced due to convenience tax. Summery: 4 Awg welding wire+ 4awg tinned copper lug with 5/16 hole + crimper + $2 heat shrink = 5x better than oem and Professional battery cable
Have dealt with this on my wife's '03 Jetta so many damn times until we got *serious* like you have here. Good stuff. BUT.... at 5:47 what is that broken at top-right of the frame??? I'm not familiar with the Beetle's bay - wasnt' sure what I was seeing but somethings cracked.
Two questions: First is do you know if the actual alternator cable and the attachments are electronically linked and the how would you remove the clip on 5:13. Thanks
It is usually just too much resistance at some point in the run. A thicker gauge cable and every connection point clean will solve it, but as he mentions the second line runs to the cabin fusebox through the wiring harness and it's a giant pain and a mess to deal with - huge teardown necessary.
I think you got it wrong it’s not the gauge of the wire it’s the connection contact surfaces need to be dressed with a brass wire wheel on a Dremel tool.
Ba design from Volkswagen in regards to the fuse box over the battery and also the cable they use is too small of a gauge to cope with the alternator current.
I'm a professional mechanic and I've just done one where the alternator was overcharging, it was full of oil too. So I replaced that along with cable and fuse.
After buying a new battery the fusebox was replaced but battery still dying out very fast. Now diagnostic says alternator. Do I replace harness or can it also relays?
if the diagnostic said alternator, you need should replace the alternator, While someone is doing that job, have them replace the cable as Noah did here. Think about why the battery is dying. It makes sense if would if alternator is not kicking out the 14.4 Volts as it should. Once that is fixed, AND if you still have the problem, you need to find the drain, and if you have an aftermarket radio, that is probably the next thing to check. FB page for New Beetles brought me here...people there complain about battery drain. Mine will die if I let the car sit for a month.
@@christinacorrell very doubtful. When they tested the alternator, they look to see does it generate an excess of 12 volts, should be like 14 V. That is the pass, fail. That's what they were looking at and since it was unable to generate that voltage, it's time for a new alternator based on what you told me.
@@christinacorrell one more thing, a relay is a glorified switch, they are used for on/off as an input and they switch a higher power (amperage) on the "other" side. You turn on the headlights, that pulls in the relay that allows power to the headlights as opposed to running all that power for the headlights through the headlight switch...
First off????? Show us the other end of the terminal at the generator / alternator. 2nd show us the entire cable of the old one before placing it into the fusebox. S177 position 3rd I believe a fuse box replacement and a check of over-charging in the alternator should of been done first to validate the melting. Finally my conclusion is if the cable is not melted in other spots of the fusebox, and the fuse box was the only spot where it is warm, could you have collected debris and caused an arch. Which the arch simply caused melting like a welding unit usually does. You described in your title "Volkswagen fuse box melting and how to solve it!"; but the title should of said "Volkswagen fuse box melting and how to replace it!".
This is the best vid I seen on this. So many fail to mention cleaning the ground connection. Mine burned up at the alternator ! It literally took fire !
Dead of winter but had just pulled up and parked...through snow on it !
Put in brand new Bosch alternator cleaned ALL connections. The one under the battery was disgusting someone had "fixed" it before and stripped the insulation way back and didnt re-tape or heat shrink it.
Although my box was ok I now carry a spare. My core problem however started with a weak but still "OK" battery. Never run a boarderline battery in your VW.
Thanks a bunch for these tips, our VW Polo 05 runs like new, I followed every one of them, replaced all fuses and got the melted fuse box fixed after every connection and terminal in the harness carefully polished
I am having the same issue and this really helped. The only issue I had with the video was that it was very hard to hear what was being said, but still very helpful, thanks.
Great job thanks from an old veteran
Thanks for the video. Going to start work on my car right now!
Thanks man my mk4 tdi was having this exact issue! Didn’t notice it till I replaced the alternator.
Yeah I replaced the alternator too
I love you very much man. Your accent suggests I will never pull up next to you when you need a wrench and that makes me sad. I am roundly and thoroughly convinced that I'm going to take my battery out. I will leave the battery box and make a power box for these things. I'm getting rid of the backseat and going to a two-seater model with a giant battery box behind the front seat heavy and low and deep. Set it up with a good charger, in 100 ft cord. I'm doing this hillbilly hybrid gig three-seater. I want to put a chair for the mechanic that's it in under the hood where the battery used to be. If I eliminated the alternator would I lose my tachometer on the diesel motor?
Good job, you should also replace the one next to the alternator feed which goes to the interior fuse box. I like to make that one from 4ga as well.
Noah, Great Video!! Can you show us a picture of the finished fuse box with the fuse installed? Or did you just replace the original fuse? Thanks
Thank you so very much! I have been struggling with my bug having this problem for 5 years now… been through 3 new cars and couldn’t bring myself to get rid of it because I was determined to fix the mysterious electrical problems and you have done it for me!! Thank you!!
Where can i buy the supplies to make the alternator cable? And what size cable did you use and the name of the pieces I need. I would really appreciate your help. I'm having this issue and I've replaced the fuse box twice.😀
hey what country do you live in? So i can list the shops you can go to.
@@noahweepers705 I live in the United States can I buy the parts at Amazon and if so please give me a list thank u for ur time
@@noahweepers705 I have the same question.
@@anthonyhuffman3877 YOU GUYS NEED 4 GAUGE WELDING CABLE AND, 4 GAUGE 5/16 TINNED COPPER LUGS AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST: HYDRAULIC WIRE CRIMPER($60). Please for the love of god, do not buy Car audio FAKE copper coated aluminum wire otherwise you will end up with a worse fire. IF YOU ARE IN THE USA HARBOR FREIGHT HAS THE Wire crimpers, The ones on amazon suck unless you buy the temco. My harbor freight is a clone of the temco and kicks ass. The wire you can get at AIRGAS or a welding supply store but its cheaper to buy online. IF YOU DON'T WANT TO CRIMP YOUR OWN LUGS ON(easy to do) They sell premade 4 AWG battery cables but they are overpriced due to convenience tax.
Summery: 4 Awg welding wire+ 4awg tinned copper lug with 5/16 hole + crimper + $2 heat shrink = 5x better than oem and Professional battery cable
@@rmblwgn Great Information.. Very appreciated...
Have dealt with this on my wife's '03 Jetta so many damn times until we got *serious* like you have here. Good stuff. BUT.... at 5:47 what is that broken at top-right of the frame??? I'm not familiar with the Beetle's bay - wasnt' sure what I was seeing but somethings cracked.
Thanks buddy
I replaced my cable and the positive wire and the first alternator wire are still pretty damn warm.
hi at @8:21 where is the first wire goes? the one which was melted did you change it or delete it? I don't get it. Thanks
Well Done!
When is the next episode of beetle brothers restoration ?
What are the three green fuses for ?
Facing the car, from left to right-A/C, ABS, ABS.
Two questions: First is do you know if the actual alternator cable and the attachments are electronically linked and the how would you remove the clip on 5:13. Thanks
Best solution. Dont buy a VW
Why my last one had 315k running and driving still when I sold it
What size of end rings did you use for both ends?
Mines melted, bought a new one just now haha.
is it ok if i put electrical tape around my wire and did u say u soaked the wires in clr?
Lachelle Tiller yes sure. And yes CLR was used :)
Hallo
What is the reason for burning the second" red line"? Where's the problem? How can I fix that?
It is usually just too much resistance at some point in the run. A thicker gauge cable and every connection point clean will solve it, but as he mentions the second line runs to the cabin fusebox through the wiring harness and it's a giant pain and a mess to deal with - huge teardown necessary.
I think you got it wrong it’s not the gauge of the wire it’s the connection contact surfaces need to be dressed with a brass wire wheel on a Dremel tool.
what
How does the new wire connect to the alternator?
The same way it came off.....
@@mk3_ep554 old news pal get out from under your rock.
@@mk3_ep554 thanks for coming to this guys rescue a year later way to be on the ball.
What caused the problem?
Ba design from Volkswagen in regards to the fuse box over the battery and also the cable they use is too small of a gauge to cope with the alternator current.
I'm a professional mechanic and I've just done one where the alternator was overcharging, it was full of oil too. So I replaced that along with cable and fuse.
How long of the wire do I need
If I'm lazy can I just disconnect the old wire and install a new one and run it directly to the battery with a 100a fuse?
Hello, can you send me a link of the CLR liquid
After buying a new battery the fusebox was replaced but battery still dying out very fast. Now diagnostic says alternator. Do I replace harness or can it also relays?
if the diagnostic said alternator, you need should replace the alternator, While someone is doing that job, have them replace the cable as Noah did here. Think about why the battery is dying. It makes sense if would if alternator is not kicking out the 14.4 Volts as it should. Once that is fixed, AND if you still have the problem, you need to find the drain, and if you have an aftermarket radio, that is probably the next thing to check. FB page for New Beetles brought me here...people there complain about battery drain. Mine will die if I let the car sit for a month.
@@DanTheManIOM @DanTheManIOM is it possible a parasitic draw can give a false read on the alternator?
@@christinacorrell very doubtful. When they tested the alternator, they look to see does it generate an excess of 12 volts, should be like 14 V. That is the pass, fail. That's what they were looking at and since it was unable to generate that voltage, it's time for a new alternator based on what you told me.
@@christinacorrell one more thing, a relay is a glorified switch, they are used for on/off as an input and they switch a higher power (amperage) on the "other" side. You turn on the headlights, that pulls in the relay that allows power to the headlights as opposed to running all that power for the headlights through the headlight switch...
@@DanTheManIOM okay thank you. I will post an update once I get the issue resolved. I appreciate all the info.
First off????? Show us the other end of the terminal at the generator / alternator.
2nd show us the entire cable of the old one before placing it into the fusebox. S177 position
3rd I believe a fuse box replacement and a check of over-charging in the alternator should of been done first to validate the melting.
Finally my conclusion is if the cable is not melted in other spots of the fusebox, and the fuse box was the only spot where it is warm, could you have collected debris and caused an arch. Which the arch simply caused melting like a welding unit usually does.
You described in your title "Volkswagen fuse box melting and how to solve it!"; but the title should of said "Volkswagen fuse box melting and how to replace it!".
Has anyone done this? I'm sick of changing melted fuse boxes.
Very busy engine bay
yea, and a 2.5L 5 cylinder is worse....8 hours to change the water pump after you take the front of the car apart. Genius Design.
Put my fuse box fire out right before the battery starting burning hydrogen.
spoiler alert they didn't fix this problem in the mark 6 either.. $400 right off the bat
400 for the repair or 400 for the that little fuse block ? They also let the 1.8 turbos self destruct for 5 years....
Really? I’m thinking about switching my mk4 for an mk6
Change the battery fuse box: ruclips.net/video/0bQRL09Mq3g/видео.html