Okay...that wire braiding trick with the packing tape and cardboard just blew my mind. I've been struggling with braiding those wire since forever. Thanks for sharing that techniqu👍
"Get a nice smooth bottom there." Honestly this was by far the best tutorial I've seen on this topic by far. Never mind the absolutely professional, capable, and veteran hand at work here -- you make this look easy -- but the non-amused tone when things just weren't working was killer. Really enjoyed this. And timely, too!
A little late seeing this video but never too late for a 👍 Best install I’ve seen and by far the best explanation the setup of the decoder using decoder pro. Thanks
Great how to video on LED and decoder with sound install. I have purchased your speakers for my RTR 1500s and a Genesis MP15AC but now I need to get that decoder pro to tweak the sound. The way you changed the settings when I see that SW1000 throttling up I can image it pulling a long cut of covered hoppers.
Excellent video. Very informative. I didn't know about Decoder Buddy, I will buy one for try and I do like Tsunami decoders. Thank you for the demo on programing.
Super video, jt! I really appreciate your detailed step by step approach. You make it seem so simple, but that's the result of having done it so many times before. Thanks for sharing all of those little tips, that make the difference between a so-so install and a superior, first-class install. I particularly enjoyed the occasional full-scale rail sound effects. The railroad must run through your back yard.
Beautiful install, it’s nice to see how a professional does things the right way. I’ve worked on switch engines, and afaik, the engine warning bell is a GE thing. There is an alarm bell in the cabs of all locos, but it doesn’t ring when the engine is priming and about to start. Also, there is a drive shaft bolted between the crankshaft and the air compressor, and another bolted between the opposite side of the compressor and the radiator fan pulley. The rad fan is belt driven off the pulley, so it and the compressor are always turning whenever the engine is running. The rad fan is pretty quiet, what you do hear are the shutters in front of the fan blade; silent when they open up, and a big FLUP when they close. I saw the dynamic brake setting was set around 50%, switch engines do not have grids. I’m sorry if this sounds like a nitpick, I just wanted to point out why switch engines sound unique compared to other locos. This inspires me to get to work on my own Coors blue box loco bought in 1980.
Thanks! As to your other comments, I do install work for clients; final programming and preferences are performed by them after they receive the loco back from me. The alarm bell is a default sound in all Soundtraxx decoders. I always leave it on, but turned down, for the customer. They can then choose what to do with it later. I am aware most prototypes do not have this feature. I didn't know the radiator fan runs full-time on switchers; they work differently on road locos using an off-3-speed configuration. This works nicely then, having the radiator fan turned low for this model. As for the dynamic brakes, all of the Soundtraxx decoders have these set to F4. They do not run if F4 is not pressed. Even for locos that do not have DB, I leave them default. Most layout owners standardize on one function-mapping for all of their locos, so DB would always be on F4 (or whatever mapping they use) even if it's never needed/used for a particular loco, since some other locos will use DB. It would be advisable to turn the DB volume down in locos that do not have it so that if an engineer accidentally presses F4, the sound won't turn on. The main purpose of the programming portion in this video is not prototype-accuracy for this specific loco, but to demonstrate how I roughly adjust volumes (using the mixer), adjust the EQ (something I am often asked about) and using the reverb.
Just FYI: Locos modeled in the 90s(early 2000s) & earlier do not have ZTR Smartstart systems. Locos with manual starting do not ring the alarm bell just before starting. Soundtraxx said you can disable the alarm bell at startup by reading CV 112 and then subtracting 2 from that value. Or set CV 135 to 0. I have used the CV 112 method on several locos now and it works like a charm.
I personally do disable the bell on my own locos. I leave it in place for clients. I only perform basic sound-level, EQ and reverb programming for client models unless they specify otherwise. Once they receive the loco they can make whatever changes they wish.
Hi. Found your vid very interesting. Love the programming part and have a question. How is your computer hooked up so on-the-fly changes happen as in the video. I have a Mac OSX with PR3 Xtra and a Digitrax DB150. Have tried hooking up to be interactive, have my engine working etc, but the changes to CVs I have made do not take place. I figure there is a bad setup somewhere. Is is possible for you to step me through or supply exact hardware and setup. Thx in advance
Allan, I use an NCE PowerCab with the NCE USB interface to the MacBook. DecoderPro has two programming options you select, "Programming Track" and "Programming on the Main", right above the PROGRAM button. "Programming Track" mode is what you need to reading CVs and is also what I use to program addresses. "Programming on the Main" lets you send values and see the results in real-time, useful for setting sound values and speed-curves. I am not familiar using Digitrax connected to DecoderPro, so it may be a little different.
@@Musepro7 Thanks JT. Sorry for the late reply. Your message came in to my less-used email account the reason my response is 3 days late. In any case my hardware is PR3 Plus connected by USB to my iMac and a 6-pin connection from the PR3 to the DB150 and then to my Digitrax DT402 throttle. It should work as you have outlined I need to play with it a little more. Thanks again for the info.
What kind of wire strippers are you using? And, what AWG wire did you use for replacement? Solid core, correct? What are your wire side cutters? Tools make the job! Very nice job, very instructive. I should have found this before I installed a 58821 ESU in my Bachmann S4 with your speaker and enclosure!
The strippers are Platinum Tools 15005C. The wire is all ESU 36AWG stranded. You always want to use stranded for locomotive installs. I make a drop-in speaker for the Bachmann S4s that is very popular. Thanks!
Can you actually buy hollow beacons, to install l. e. ds, from across the pond, time to give manufactures a heads up on hollow beacons., from across the pond.
Okay...that wire braiding trick with the packing tape and cardboard just blew my mind. I've been struggling with braiding those wire since forever. Thanks for sharing that techniqu👍
"Get a nice smooth bottom there."
Honestly this was by far the best tutorial I've seen on this topic by far. Never mind the absolutely professional, capable, and veteran hand at work here -- you make this look easy -- but the non-amused tone when things just weren't working was killer. Really enjoyed this. And timely, too!
Once again, Mr. Burke, my hats off to you🎩🎩,this guy learned something today!
A little late seeing this video but never too late for a 👍 Best install I’ve seen and by far the best explanation the setup of the decoder using decoder pro. Thanks
Best install vid I have ever seen, thanks JT
Great how to video on LED and decoder with sound install. I have purchased your speakers for my RTR 1500s and a Genesis MP15AC but now I need to get that decoder pro to tweak the sound. The way you changed the settings when I see that SW1000 throttling up I can image it pulling a long cut of covered hoppers.
Excellent video. Very informative. I didn't know about Decoder Buddy, I will buy one for try and I do like Tsunami decoders. Thank you for the demo on programing.
Superb instructional video beginning to end! Thanks for sharing!!!
Super video, jt! I really appreciate your detailed step by step approach. You make it seem so simple, but that's the result of having done it so many times before. Thanks for sharing all of those little tips, that make the difference between a so-so install and a superior, first-class install.
I particularly enjoyed the occasional full-scale rail sound effects. The railroad must run through your back yard.
Thanks! Both the Norfolk Southern Sandusky District and the CSX Columbus Sub run parallel across the street - around 40 or so trains pass by daily.
Nice tutorial, you make it look very easy. I have installed many sound decoders / speakers, etc., but will apply some of your tips on future installs.
found you from the virtual train show. great info!
Beautiful install, it’s nice to see how a professional does things the right way. I’ve worked on switch engines, and afaik, the engine warning bell is a GE thing. There is an alarm bell in the cabs of all locos, but it doesn’t ring when the engine is priming and about to start. Also, there is a drive shaft bolted between the crankshaft and the air compressor, and another bolted between the opposite side of the compressor and the radiator fan pulley. The rad fan is belt driven off the pulley, so it and the compressor are always turning whenever the engine is running. The rad fan is pretty quiet, what you do hear are the shutters in front of the fan blade; silent when they open up, and a big FLUP when they close. I saw the dynamic brake setting was set around 50%, switch engines do not have grids. I’m sorry if this sounds like a nitpick, I just wanted to point out why switch engines sound unique compared to other locos. This inspires me to get to work on my own Coors blue box loco bought in 1980.
Thanks! As to your other comments, I do install work for clients; final programming and preferences are performed by them after they receive the loco back from me. The alarm bell is a default sound in all Soundtraxx decoders. I always leave it on, but turned down, for the customer. They can then choose what to do with it later. I am aware most prototypes do not have this feature. I didn't know the radiator fan runs full-time on switchers; they work differently on road locos using an off-3-speed configuration. This works nicely then, having the radiator fan turned low for this model. As for the dynamic brakes, all of the Soundtraxx decoders have these set to F4. They do not run if F4 is not pressed. Even for locos that do not have DB, I leave them default. Most layout owners standardize on one function-mapping for all of their locos, so DB would always be on F4 (or whatever mapping they use) even if it's never needed/used for a particular loco, since some other locos will use DB. It would be advisable to turn the DB volume down in locos that do not have it so that if an engineer accidentally presses F4, the sound won't turn on. The main purpose of the programming portion in this video is not prototype-accuracy for this specific loco, but to demonstrate how I roughly adjust volumes (using the mixer), adjust the EQ (something I am often asked about) and using the reverb.
Nice clean install JT. I also liked the Decoder Pro demo.
Just FYI: Locos modeled in the 90s(early 2000s) & earlier do not have ZTR Smartstart systems. Locos with manual starting do not ring the alarm bell just before starting. Soundtraxx said you can disable the alarm bell at startup by reading CV 112 and then subtracting 2 from that value. Or set CV 135 to 0. I have used the CV 112 method on several locos now and it works like a charm.
I personally do disable the bell on my own locos. I leave it in place for clients. I only perform basic sound-level, EQ and reverb programming for client models unless they specify otherwise. Once they receive the loco they can make whatever changes they wish.
@ 5:40 that train sounds SO real... lol
from all the train horns.. you'd think his house is smack dab in the middle of a mainline railyard.. awesome soldering skills :o)
where can I find the lenses from?
Both the speaker and lenses are made by Scale Sound Systems: www.scalesoundsystems.com
Hi. Found your vid very interesting. Love the programming part and have a question. How is your computer hooked up so on-the-fly changes happen as in the video. I have a Mac OSX with PR3 Xtra and a Digitrax DB150. Have tried hooking up to be interactive, have my engine working etc, but the changes to CVs I have made
do not take place. I figure there is a bad setup somewhere. Is is possible for you to step me through or supply exact hardware and setup. Thx in advance
Allan, I use an NCE PowerCab with the NCE USB interface to the MacBook. DecoderPro has two programming options you select, "Programming Track" and "Programming on the Main", right above the PROGRAM button. "Programming Track" mode is what you need to reading CVs and is also what I use to program addresses. "Programming on the Main" lets you send values and see the results in real-time, useful for setting sound values and speed-curves. I am not familiar using Digitrax connected to DecoderPro, so it may be a little different.
@@Musepro7 Thanks JT. Sorry for the late reply. Your message came in to my less-used email account the reason my response is 3 days late. In any case my hardware is PR3 Plus connected by USB to my iMac and a 6-pin connection from the PR3 to the DB150 and then to my Digitrax DT402 throttle. It should work as you have outlined I need to play with it a little more. Thanks again for the info.
What kind of wire strippers are you using? And, what AWG wire did you use for replacement? Solid core, correct? What are your wire side cutters? Tools make the job! Very nice job, very instructive. I should have found this before I installed a 58821 ESU in my Bachmann S4 with your speaker and enclosure!
The strippers are Platinum Tools 15005C. The wire is all ESU 36AWG stranded. You always want to use stranded for locomotive installs. I make a drop-in speaker for the Bachmann S4s that is very popular. Thanks!
That motor may be the new replacement after Mashima Motor of Japan closed a few years ago.
What kind of tweezers are those?
Not sure. I buy various random sizes on eBay. I like these a lot because they're thick and strong with serrated tips for gripping.
@@Musepro7 Darn, they look like they work really well.
Can you actually buy hollow beacons, to install l. e. ds, from across the pond, time to give manufactures a heads up on hollow beacons., from across the pond.
If strands of copper wire look black, trash it, use new copper wire, a lot easier to solder, than dirty copper wire, from across the pond
I like noisy locos, sounds a bit more realistic than a quiet one
Aaron Heine Electronics on FB for an awesome beacon. You should sell them on your site JT.
I've installed a couple of his beacons for clients. They are nice!