A few ideas: you can use the exiting air from your vacuum cleaner to have an "airblower", helps with the cleaning of the holes. That or a compressor ofcourse, but I hate this hand-held pumps. Also, instead of the brush i use an 8mm steel rope - put it trough small pipe, about 10mm id. so you can hold it while it spins. Take one end of the steel rope and bend the wires outwards, so they act like a brush. Then put it trough the pipe and put the other end of the rope in a battery drill, then put it in REVERSE... boom, clean your hole with that. If you dont put it in reverse, it will untangle the rope, which is what you dont want. Another tip is to scoop the excess resin with your finger (wear a glove) and smear it onto the next bolt before you put it in. That way you save on some on the resin, and also you make sure the resin is well inbetween the threads. Oh did I mention to degrease the threaded rods? :) I use acetone, but most anything will do. You shouldnt skip that step, because they have a bit of oil on them from the factory. And always prime when you put on a new mixer. Good job by the way with the video, I loved it. Sorry for the comment, but I thought you might use some of the tips, like I'm gonna use some of yours! Good day sir!
very diligent in getting the dust out... makes sure for a strong bond... I will pay more attention to this as I have just this job coming up.. thanks for putting this up !
Nice well put together video lads! 9:35 - As the materials are not mixed in the tube though, every fresh go you have to prime. Hence why the material in the end was cream, as it hadn't mixed.
My thoughts exactly. I always prime it, every time before I start with a new mixing nozzle. Also, wear latex or nitril gloves, your skin will be thankful. Other than that, nice video.
Excellent account - quality workmanship and attention to detail. Great to see! I wish A&E had done my extension - it wouldn’t have been the nightmare it was! Keep it up guys!
Awesome video. One thing though is judging from the color, it looks like the resin in the tip wasn't fully mixed at 9:45 before it was put in the hole. I'm sure you already know, but a proper respirator and eye protection are good idea when working with that dust.
I would like to add that the respirator should be properly fitted to the user. Also the proper filter cartridge used for the working conditions as there are multiple available.
I use my Bostich compressor to blow out, hoover out also & I Pva the holes. Top work, followed this series in last few days, quality work from a fellow builder/ carpenter.
Why do you not want the plate sticking to resin? I’m putting an SHS post in and I was going straight from base as post is never moving for my extension.
Cheers you to. Quick question Hi I am looking to build a window cannopy at front of house. However I am getting external wall insulation on my home in a few weeks. I have been advised to attach 6x2 C16 grade timber on the house where I want the cannopy frame to be prior to any external insulation being done. I will be fitting some m12 high tensile steel screwed rod with chemical fixing to support the timber. How far into the wall should I be placing the screwed rod into my house. ( my house has cavity walls. and I think the cavity is approx 100mm in from external brickwork.) Should I go beyond the cavity into the internal brickwork?? And if I do go beyond the cavity how would I stop the chemical resin from falling into the cavity?? Thanks in advance
Didn't see you putting on the spacer nuts under the baseplates - assuming these were critical to getting the final level of the stanchions right how did you go about this? Excellent detail - now't more important than the footings!
Thanks for this, you explained it really well. I'll be using the resin for the first time for a DIY project and this clear explanation really helps. How long do you have to work with the stud in the resin before it starts to go off?
Nice graft mate just one thing -Tape some cardboard or something against any existing walls before pouring the footings -it saves a lot of cleaning after .really detailed and great video 👌👌
Okay, so... we see where the concrete has been chiseled out, the bottoms of each square hole pretty rough and uneven. the bottom plates of each steel column are spaced above the bottom of the square holes with the nuts for the threaded rods (obviously to keep them more-or-less upright, and to avoid contact with uncured resin). All well and good. Now: are those square holes partially filled with concrete to level the bottoms, before affixing the plates permanently to the foundation/slab? Or: what? If the bottom plates are fully fastened to the uneven bottoms of the square holes (with the nuts fully tightened), they won't stand upright, perfectly perpendicular to the slab. AND: none of those bolts are long enough to mount the plates above the actual slab, once the square holes are refilled with concrete to match the slab. Much time was alotted to showing each of the bolt holes being perfectly cleaned out. A single bolt hole would have sufficed to demonstrate the procedure. Unshown: how were these things all leveled and finally secured? I got the gist of the two-part resin being injected through the mixing tube (I've worked with lots of that stuff-- 1:1, 2:1, 10:1, etc...). But the base plates being leveled to the square whole bottoms was entirely omitted. Enquiring minds want to know!
Hi Richard, Anchor resin and threaded bar were specified by the structural engineer for this project. We would never go against their advice or instruction. All the best, John 😊
I’m screwing brackets to hold my deck posts down to existing footings. The footings are over 20 yrs old. Can I use the resin with a concrete screw or is it just for studs? Are these special studs like stainless, galvanized or hardened?
Good work on the cleanout. I'm using some thick staws, just throw in the staw and use your hand as an adapter to the vacuum and then do the brushing and blowing. You can use one of the bolts to smear the excess so you do not need to touch it with your bare skin, this stuff is nasty while wet. Also you do not need to use a new nozel beween cartriges.
Hi I am looking to build a window cannopy at front of house. However I am getting external wall insulation on my home in a few weeks. I have been advised to attach 6x2 C16 grade timber on the house where I want the cannopy frame to be prior to any external insulation being done. My question is what fixings / fasteners should I use for the 6x2 timber and how far apart should I position said fixings? The length of the cannopy will be 5m and will I need any supports underneath the cannopy? I'm thinking that some chemical fixed m12 screwed rod should do the job. But not 100% Thanks in advance.
The cuts allow the grout to flow easily around the bottom of the steels. This ensures that everything is fully encapsulated, and nice and solid. All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Great I’ve got some really long studs to fit into concrete. Will do it this way thanks. Might have covered that window before you poured the concrete though.🙈
Professional job. Why don't you place oversize nuts over the screws to support the studs just underneath the bolting nuts? Otherwise, not placing these nuts but sitting the stud on the excess resin might be even better, in order to keep the stud at correct level after hardening.
Thank you very good video. What diameter of hole you need to drill for a 12 mm threaded rod? (What is the recommended gap, if any, between hole and threaded rod)?
Wouldn’t it be better to just lay a piece of paper under the plate instead of those nuts to prevent the plate from sticking to the resin? Don’t the nuts make the platform weaker as it’s not fully resting in the concrete below? When you tighten the nuts on the rod doesn’t it bend the flange corners down because of the nuts under the plate? Can those nut rust? I’m not a contractor, I’m just wondering.
I think the nuts are just temporary. He wanted the plate on while the resin was setting to ensure the rods are lined up right. I assume there's a bit he's going to do later where he removes the plate and the nuts then puts the plate back before he screws it down tight.
Tony,when I first saw the thumbnail for this video and seen the cut out in the footing, I thought uh oh somebody’s cocked the levels up,but then I thought about it did you use them as grout forms after bolting up the steels.
Hi Mark Worthington spot on, to be fair I don’t know why but it was supposed to be 50mm not 70mm it just the way it worked but it’s a lot easier to grout under the plate as the engineer had required but it’s also easier to have bolt adjustments instead of sims I prefer bolt than sim but steel guys might say different but each to there own thanks for watching keep Safe all the best Tony
i would have though is you use a sucking tool to clean out the hole instead off a blowing tool you would get a much cleaner hole. you could cut the blower long thin tube of the blower and attach it to the vacuum cleaner to create a sucker, ( a bit like BORIS JOHNSTON), to clean out the hole. using the bottle brush would make this approach even better. maybe use it on BJ also. oh yeah BJ stands for something else too. haha
Christ! Talk about OTT with the repeated blowing, brushing and vacuuming! And what a waste of resin! Why not do one stud at a time initially until you get a feel for how much resin each hole needs without wasting it?!
Hi Martin it’s like everything in life we all do work differently, it’s funny thou across the world we have buildings fail because of bad design of bad workmanship at the time what are those people thinking today? all the best Tony 👍
Ughhhh VACUUM 🤪. Hoover is a brand. 🤡 Why don't you have the VACUUM running next to the hole as you are blowing the air out of the hole and using the brush?
@@BuildWithAE Tony, old mate Mike Rom may have had a bad experience with some cowboy builders? Still, it seems odd that he's complaining about attention to detail ... he might complain more if the building fell down due to poor construction! Personally, I liked your approach, it's meticulous and you're following the structural engineer's knowledge and plans. Good quality work takes time and costs money. 👍
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
A few ideas:
you can use the exiting air from your vacuum cleaner to have an "airblower", helps with the cleaning of the holes. That or a compressor ofcourse, but I hate this hand-held pumps.
Also, instead of the brush i use an 8mm steel rope - put it trough small pipe, about 10mm id. so you can hold it while it spins. Take one end of the steel rope and bend the wires outwards, so they act like a brush. Then put it trough the pipe and put the other end of the rope in a battery drill, then put it in REVERSE... boom, clean your hole with that. If you dont put it in reverse, it will untangle the rope, which is what you dont want.
Another tip is to scoop the excess resin with your finger (wear a glove) and smear it onto the next bolt before you put it in. That way you save on some on the resin, and also you make sure the resin is well inbetween the threads.
Oh did I mention to degrease the threaded rods? :) I use acetone, but most anything will do. You shouldnt skip that step, because they have a bit of oil on them from the factory.
And always prime when you put on a new mixer.
Good job by the way with the video, I loved it. Sorry for the comment, but I thought you might use some of the tips, like I'm gonna use some of yours! Good day sir!
Thor Row
Good advice thanks a million
Nothing arty farty with glamorous video recording here, plain simple professional demonstration... learnt something new today - thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it Amanda! Have an awesome weekend 👍
very diligent in getting the dust out... makes sure for a strong bond... I will pay more attention to this as I have just this job coming up.. thanks for putting this up !
Nice well put together video lads!
9:35 - As the materials are not mixed in the tube though, every fresh go you have to prime. Hence why the material in the end was cream, as it hadn't mixed.
My thoughts exactly. I always prime it, every time before I start with a new mixing nozzle. Also, wear latex or nitril gloves, your skin will be thankful. Other than that, nice video.
Excellent account - quality workmanship and attention to detail. Great to see!
I wish A&E had done my extension - it wouldn’t have been the nightmare it was!
Keep it up guys!
Sorry to hear that Mick! Hopefully it was completed to the level you wanted in the end. Many thanks for your kind words and take care 👍
Awesome video. One thing though is judging from the color, it looks like the resin in the tip wasn't fully mixed at 9:45 before it was put in the hole. I'm sure you already know, but a proper respirator and eye protection are good idea when working with that dust.
I would like to add that the respirator should be properly fitted to the user. Also the proper filter cartridge used for the working conditions as there are multiple available.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video really helpfull
I'm using steel brush used for cleaning copper pipes fixed in to battery drill plus compressed air.
Power tools are so helpful.
So true thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍
Hi guys great videos loads of tips and tricks 👌💪💪here's one I cut the end of the bottle brush and and stick it in the drill works a treat 👍
Some work involved in that job. Super job
big Johnny boots much appreciated mate! 😎👍
I use my Bostich compressor to blow out, hoover out also & I Pva the holes. Top work, followed this series in last few days, quality work from a fellow builder/ carpenter.
Much appreciated Nelg, take care 👍
Pva?
@@mrseanpride6449 yeah to dry dust out, then resin .
Thanks Tony keep the vids flowing. (awaiting next spiral staircase).
Why do you not want the plate sticking to resin? I’m putting an SHS post in and I was going straight from base as post is never moving for my extension.
Useful clip so thanks, makes the results a DIYer can achieve so much better.
Interesting, informative and helpful. Good instructive video. Paul
Great video guys very neat job
Hi M G much appreciated all the best Tony have a awesome weekend 👍
Cheers you to. Quick question
Hi I am looking to build a window cannopy at front of house. However I am getting external wall insulation on my home in a few weeks. I have been advised to attach 6x2 C16 grade timber on the house where I want the cannopy frame to be prior to any external insulation being done.
I will be fitting some m12 high tensile steel screwed rod with chemical fixing to support the timber. How far into the wall should I be placing the screwed rod into my house. ( my house has cavity walls. and I think the cavity is approx 100mm in from external brickwork.) Should I go beyond the cavity into the internal brickwork?? And if I do go beyond the cavity how would I stop the chemical resin from falling into the cavity??
Thanks in advance
Didn't see you putting on the spacer nuts under the baseplates - assuming these were critical to getting the final level of the stanchions right how did you go about this?
Excellent detail - now't more important than the footings!
Thanks for this, you explained it really well. I'll be using the resin for the first time for a DIY project and this clear explanation really helps. How long do you have to work with the stud in the resin before it starts to go off?
great and thorough explanation. thanks
Glad you enjoyed it! Take care 👍
Great video Keep up the good work 😊
good to see a building company not staffed by chancing yobbos. nicely done
And tony is still there brushing them holes out ready for resin fixing lol 🔥🔫
Craftsmen at work...loved.
Hi bob martin thanks, much appreciated all the best Tony 👍
Cracking video.
Thanks David! 😊
thank you brother
Yes! Another vid!
Nice graft mate just one thing -Tape some cardboard or something against any existing walls before pouring the footings -it saves a lot of cleaning after .really detailed and great video 👌👌
Nice one! Thanks again Steve. Take care 👍
Okay, so... we see where the concrete has been chiseled out, the bottoms of each square hole pretty rough and uneven. the bottom plates of each steel column are spaced above the bottom of the square holes with the nuts for the threaded rods (obviously to keep them more-or-less upright, and to avoid contact with uncured resin). All well and good. Now: are those square holes partially filled with concrete to level the bottoms, before affixing the plates permanently to the foundation/slab? Or: what? If the bottom plates are fully fastened to the uneven bottoms of the square holes (with the nuts fully tightened), they won't stand upright, perfectly perpendicular to the slab. AND: none of those bolts are long enough to mount the plates above the actual slab, once the square holes are refilled with concrete to match the slab. Much time was alotted to showing each of the bolt holes being perfectly cleaned out. A single bolt hole would have sufficed to demonstrate the procedure. Unshown: how were these things all leveled and finally secured? I got the gist of the two-part resin being injected through the mixing tube (I've worked with lots of that stuff-- 1:1, 2:1, 10:1, etc...). But the base plates being leveled to the square whole bottoms was entirely omitted. Enquiring minds want to know!
What a carry on to get a fixing a Rawlbolt or through bolt would have done similar, the base will be filled in later anyway.
Hi Richard,
Anchor resin and threaded bar were specified by the structural engineer for this project.
We would never go against their advice or instruction.
All the best, John 😊
I’m screwing brackets to hold my deck posts down to existing footings. The footings are over 20 yrs old.
Can I use the resin with a concrete screw or is it just for studs? Are these special studs like stainless, galvanized or hardened?
Quality boys
Good work on the cleanout. I'm using some thick staws, just throw in the staw and use your hand as an adapter to the vacuum and then do the brushing and blowing. You can use one of the bolts to smear the excess so you do not need to touch it with your bare skin, this stuff is nasty while wet. Also you do not need to use a new nozel beween cartriges.
Yes, wasted some resin by not reusing the old nozzle.
Hi I am looking to build a window cannopy at front of house. However I am getting external wall insulation on my home in a few weeks. I have been advised to attach 6x2 C16 grade timber on the house where I want the cannopy frame to be prior to any external insulation being done.
My question is what fixings / fasteners should I use for the 6x2 timber and how far apart should I position said fixings? The length of the cannopy will be 5m and will I need any supports underneath the cannopy?
I'm thinking that some chemical fixed m12 screwed rod should do the job. But not 100%
Thanks in advance.
Great attention to detail! Clean and tidy site! It’s a joy to watch you guys!! Got any jobs?
Very interesting. Not easy. One question. Why the extra concrete cuts in line with wall. The extra slices in the square perimeter???????
The cuts allow the grout to flow easily around the bottom of the steels. This ensures that everything is fully encapsulated, and nice and solid.
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Great I’ve got some really long studs to fit into concrete. Will do it this way thanks. Might have covered that window before you poured the concrete though.🙈
Hi I thought we did school boy error my bag, kind you sure they were all old ones coming out need to watch video all the best Tony 👍
Thanks for the vid, very well explained !
You wouldn't want to get this process wrong as you could end up with a right ball ache on your hands.
Nice vid, if you want to use m12 bolt for the resin do you use m12 drill bit or the next size up? Thanks
Hi Neo no the drill size will always be bigger but look at the instructions on the chem fix you are using all the best Tony 👍
Professional job. Why don't you place oversize nuts over the screws to support the studs just underneath the bolting nuts? Otherwise, not placing these nuts but sitting the stud on the excess resin might be even better, in order to keep the stud at correct level after hardening.
Yep, there’s definitely no dust left in them holes
Hi Game Changer it’s the only way 👍 thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
Maybe go in with some methylated spirit on a cloth wrapped around a rod to get that final bit of dust ?
Would you be able to screw out studding from the resin if you had to?
Not a chance, if done correctly the stud will shear before breaking out if resin
Thank you very good video. What diameter of hole you need to drill for a 12 mm threaded rod? (What is the recommended gap, if any, between hole and threaded rod)?
Hi Rami follow the link it gives you everything you need to know www.the-cfa.co.uk/media/49437/gnresinbondedanchors.pdf
all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE link no longer works, could you just tell us what size hol you recommend for a 12mm rod? Cheers
@@Mylesmitch the hole will be required by the engineer or on the back of the chemical tube
Great
Silly question but I’ve never seen these metal studs before.
What are you guys using them for??
Hi never a silly question we use them to set the plates absolutely spot on all the best Tony 👍
What's the advantage using chemical fix rather than a concrete anchor bolt/screwbolt, stronger fixing?
Hi Haz it was the engineer who specified the mechanical fixture all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE thanks
Do you think you could fill a hollow tube with that then screw into it with normal screws.
Hi Ryan no it’s not really designed for screws plus engineer specifications all the best Tony 👍
You should made the openings bigger for grouting underneath the baseplate
Nice video, thanks! Do you use something like a structural grout underneath the metal posts when you ultimately bolted them in place?
Wouldn’t it be better to just lay a piece of paper under the plate instead of those nuts to prevent the plate from sticking to the resin? Don’t the nuts make the platform weaker as it’s not fully resting in the concrete below? When you tighten the nuts on the rod doesn’t it bend the flange corners down because of the nuts under the plate? Can those nut rust?
I’m not a contractor, I’m just wondering.
I think the nuts are just temporary. He wanted the plate on while the resin was setting to ensure the rods are lined up right. I assume there's a bit he's going to do later where he removes the plate and the nuts then puts the plate back before he screws it down tight.
Why do you need resin in solid concrete?
Tony,when I first saw the thumbnail for this video and seen the cut out in the footing, I thought uh oh somebody’s cocked the levels up,but then I thought about it did you use them as grout forms after bolting up the steels.
Hi Mark Worthington spot on, to be fair I don’t know why but it was supposed to be 50mm not 70mm it just the way it worked but it’s a lot easier to grout under the plate as the engineer had required but it’s also easier to have bolt adjustments instead of sims I prefer bolt than sim but steel guys might say different but each to there own thanks for watching keep Safe all the best Tony
i would have though is you use a sucking tool to clean out the hole instead off a blowing tool you would get a much cleaner hole. you could cut the blower long thin tube of the blower and attach it to the vacuum cleaner to create a sucker, ( a bit like BORIS JOHNSTON), to clean out the hole. using the bottle brush would make this approach even better. maybe use it on BJ also. oh yeah BJ stands for something else too. haha
What are these metal posts for?
Hi Andrew the metal posts are a portal frame for a aluminium glass structure thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍
What is the purpose of these ‘steels’?
Is there a link to their use....
Look at the playlist for "building an extension", its an outstanding series of videos!
What a faf just to put resin in and cost hr
that stuff would be great for a gun cabinet thx guys
Great video…make sure you wash that finger 😂
Why or did you ask engineer why resin bonded bolts rather than standard rawlbolts?
Definitely missed a spec of dust in hole number 3. Henry be like ffs lol
v. good
😎👍
This obsession with brushing can't be healthy.
Have the hoover going while youre giving it the in and out. Save all that dust going in your lungs and also some time. Nice demo though.
She didn't flash her ginger growler at them, I notice.
Dentists use this stuff to fill holes in teeth 😉👍
Don’t do not fill all the holes with resin - do one at a time because if it’s warm the resin will set before you put the fixing in
This stuff gets off at no time at all. Really a nightmare.
Christ! Talk about OTT with the repeated blowing, brushing and vacuuming! And what a waste of resin! Why not do one stud at a time initially until you get a feel for how much resin each hole needs without wasting it?!
Hi Martin it’s like everything in life we all do work differently, it’s funny thou across the world we have buildings fail because of bad design of bad workmanship at the time what are those people thinking today? all the best Tony 👍
Why fill the hole completely ? Surly it’s a waste of resin.
Bit ott tbh
Ughhhh VACUUM 🤪. Hoover is a brand. 🤡
Why don't you have the VACUUM running next to the hole as you are blowing the air out of the hole and using the brush?
More talking than work
Poor home owner having to pay for all that faff! Yes, I do know what I'm talking about!
Hi Mike Rom no faff at all, just have to crack on, I respect your view but it’s just how we do it 👍. Thanks for watching . Keep Safe
Great, well-worded, diplomatic reply 👍
Brilliant Vids Boys, keep 'em coming
Gary Harrison thank you, thanks for watching keep Safe all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE Tony, old mate Mike Rom may have had a bad experience with some cowboy builders? Still, it seems odd that he's complaining about attention to detail ... he might complain more if the building fell down due to poor construction! Personally, I liked your approach, it's meticulous and you're following the structural engineer's knowledge and plans. Good quality work takes time and costs money. 👍
Hole is too tight.