Solar noob here. Been watching your basic solar videos. As a retired educator, I have something to say: What a great teacher you are. You don't come across as some arrogant know-it-all but rather, as someone who wants to give the learner, the tools with which to work, in order that they may help themselves to success. Thanks for your videos!
@@DIYOutdoorLife well, as great as you were in your instruction, I still messed it up! LOL No biggie, one more viewing (this time, not late at night), and I got it! Nevertheless, no fault of yours...I often get the deer in the headlights look when it comes to electrical. Your instruction was great. Thanks!!!
We scheduled an appointment with our local RV shop to have them show us how to use our ZAMP system. Just cancelled it after watching this! Brian, you saved us time and roughly $90, which would have been the shop's fee for helping us! Thank you for your great videos!
This channel is fantastic. I am just now starting to dive in and learn about solar power, and nothing else I have came across explains things in such a great way. You're giving VERY useful information, and not just trying to pad the run time by telling random stories, instead of delivering the knowledge.
This guy is fantastic. I decided against buying a camper but I keep watching his stuff just cause it makes me feel good to watch. I'll probably end up with a camper just because I keep clicking on these videos.
Just revisiting this video Brian. I wanted to thank you again. With your help alone , I was able to go to totally off grid for two weeks in Maine last summer. In addition to all your other helpful video's, you RULE in all things solar and batteries. Your channel is the best🌞👍👍👍
Dude, this is the second video of you I have watched while preparing to go truck camping for a year or so. You are a natural at explaining things. Thanks man.
I am not a camper but this is a goldmine of info. I bought a Pecron solar generator with 4 200 watt portable panels. The Pecron can take up to 1300 watts total. I have been into this for a month with my system and now want to build my own. This solar thing is really addicative. Once again thanks you make this so easy to understand!
Thank you so much for swinging by, portable solar can absolutely get addictive. I have more stuff that I know what to do it, I could supply a small town with energy.... lol
Brian, I have watched several of your videos, and you are definitely providing the best solar information regarding RVs that I have ever seen. I finally feel confident enough to figure out what I need and purchase a right-sized solar system to meet my needs. Thank you very much.
Great and valuable video. I just got the Renogy 100W suitcase w/20A waterproof controller on Amzon for $145. Added 10ft 10AWG extension and the iGreely plug you showed. It's a very simple but effective system for a solar newb like me. Going out this Memorial Day to put the system to the test. Thank you for your informative channel.
I have the Bushwhacker 10FB, like yours with two doors. You saved me a bunch of time researching. Time to spend some $$$. Thank you so much for this info!
Thanks Brian... again. Wish I had watched this last summer. I was so confused about the solar port. I bought a quality 100 w solar panel without a controller. I just camped on the weekends so I never used the panels. Good thing. Now I know exactly what to do thanks to your clear instructions.
I say the same thing when I recommend this channel to friends!!! Brian is made for video content! Total natural skills! Not hard to tell he is a teacher.
Awesome video Brian and highly informative! Thanks for dispelling the solar port scam! Information is power (literally in this case) Btw: Harbor Freight was giving away free multimeters with any purchase. I gave several away and made new friends that I didn't have lol
Thanks for the link to the fused connector! I'll make sure to pick one up before our install as I don't think my renogy kit comes with one. Should have the last piece for it this week!
Solid! Skipping that solar on the side will be the way to go with your FS for sure. Depending on the kit you're getting, you might need the MC4 to SAE plug I included too, tough to say without seeing your kit. Lemme know how you make out!
Brian, What brand of portable solar panels do you recommend. We will be getting a Highcamp teardrop in October. It will have a propex heater, dometic compressor fridge, and Led lighting. It comes with a 100 aH AGM battery. My wife and I enjoy your Videos and find them very informative. Thanks in advance for your help and advice on this.
There's so much stuff on the market these days, a kit like this is hard to beat. It's a glass panel, that is still portable, with a waterproof charge controller included. They give you everything you need to hook it up although most people find that a few simple modifications make it best. You'll be able to connect to your battery out of the box, and see whether you want to replace the plugs with extension wires that are longer or hard wire a plug to the battery like I do. I think the 200w set up would be best. Thanks for watching, let me know how you make out. amzn.to/3Cp1NHu
I just found your channel and instantly subscribed. My two favorite videos so far are this one, and the power bank video. My family just sold our small trailer (similar size to your teardrop), and we bought a 35' fifth wheel because we're going full-time for a year or so. We'll be plugged in most often, but we LOVE boondocking. Do you think we could get away with just some extra solar, and maybe a power station, in lieu of bringing a noisy gas generator? I understand we would forego our ability to use the bigger systems (AC and maybe tv, which we don't watch anyway). My primary concern is that we keep our batteries charged so lights/fridge work, and we have enough juice to bring slides in and hitch back up to the truck after a week off-grid. We currently have 2 85 amp/hr batteries, but I might upgrade to AGMs, per your other video. I know there's a lot baked in here, but maybe some other large RV owners would like to know. We don't want to be those loud, generator-using people. :) Thanks! -Brian
Thank you so much for tuning in, great question. As you suspected, it's a bit of a bigger issue, pretty difficult to respond to a simple text... I'll do my best. My favorite set up for bigger rigs is keeping your battery very simple. You might not need to upgrade your battery at all. Instead, I will link a video where I do a mod that allows you to run the camper off of the power station DC. This is orders of magnitude more efficient than plugging it in to the AC outlet on a power station. It will run several times longer and save you a lot of money. if you do need to run AC receptacle power, it's easy enough to just plug into the power station. Most of us can do without, and use it sparingly for best results. I will post a link to a very large power station that can do this job very well, it's also expandable with add-on batteries. With the add on batteries, you might find that you don't need Generator at all, maybe even a small solar panel will be enough to meet your needs. If your needs are more demanding, bring the Generator along, you only need to run the noisy thing for an hour or so to charge up the power station. Some people can get several days or more on the power station alone, firing up the generator for an hour and a half to charge it back up, and then they're able to go several more days. This proves to be excellent, w less Generator noise, not needing all of the solar, and getting to pick and choose the best time to run the generator for a short period. I hope this makes sense and is helpful. I will post my favorite PowerStation link, for the unit that can do what I'm talking about and charge really fast. I will also post a link of the video where I do the modification, you can ignore the power station I'm using in that video and use the EF one that I link. Let me know what you think. amzn.to/3HDiSA1 ruclips.net/video/_MRIg0Szh-0/видео.htmlfeature=shared
@@DIYOutdoorLife that is another AWESOME video, and perfectly explains what I need to do. 2 more things came to mind: 1) Do I NEED a larger power station, or could I theoretically get away with something like a Goal Zero 1500 and a solar panel, I was taking day trips in our truck and re-charging the Goal Zero each time I did that. Just trying to cut down on space/weight, and also cost, though I certainly see the wisdom of a larger unit. 2) Your battery disconnect made perfect sense. Our battery shutoff control is in a separate compartment as our batteries. Essentially, just a dividing wall. Should I just install the Anderson connector in the batter bay, where the +/- cable comes from the controller and to the battery?
@@dadstuffandthings do you already own a 1500 X? If so, start with that and see how it goes, no sense buying a new system. If you don't, I think I could find some newer units that might work a little better for the $. Let me know if you want already, and I can give some advice if needed. As far as where to install the Anderson, it's not really responsible for me to give too much advice without seeing the system . A general rule of thumb, the closer to the battery, the better. if there's not a switch there, it's cheap enough to add one and it might be worth your while. Keep me filled in with the project, sounds fun!
@@DIYOutdoorLife I hear ya on the exact electrical advice 😀 kinda like asking “my car is making a weird noise, can you tell me what it is over the phone? I don’t own a power station yet, so am definitely open to advice!
@@dadstuffandthings the yeti 1500 is an awesome set up, it's been go to for years. Lately, there are other brands that make power stations that can do the same thing for less money. One thing that's important, is the ability to expand it down the road. Although the Goal zero yeti has expansion batteries, the technology is pretty outdated. I will post a link to Oupes website. The mega 2 is expandable, larger, and a lot less money than Goal zero. I also have a video on my channel reviewing the mega two, it would probably be my recommendation in your situation. It's an awesome expandable platform for less money (it has a DC 30 amp output like the Goal zero) shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1865808&u=3135070&m=116483&urllink=&afftrack=
Thank you so much for posting this! I didn’t want to do solar on my older RV and run wires because it got pretty complicated. This made things so much easier! Do you have a video on how to connect these setups to the house battery? Seems easy but I just want to see it.
Thank you for watching! If you look at the playlist feature on the channel, there is one on solar. I’ve shown a bunch of different ways to connect with all in one systems, charge controllers and panels… hope it helps!
Would love to see a video on your advice of what is needed (sway bars etc) for a newbie to purchase for a stress free experience of a bushwhacker plus.
@@alanlevine3984 Nice, which Bushwhacker plus? For me personally, I would skip sway bars or a weight distribution hitch for that set up. Your tow vehicle has more than enough capability to pull and stop the trailer and it will ride stable when you have a good, balanced load. You can always add a sway bar if you’re getting some wobbles at higher speeds, most won’t need. You’ll find different opinions on this but I find it easier and more stress free to do less rather than more when it comes to these smaller trailers. Go back to my older videos, review how to easily couple and decouple, make sure your hitch height is correct, balance tongue weight and practice backing up in an empty parking lot and you’ll be a more in no time. Practice and experience makes you confident and confidence will keep the stress down. Happy camping! How to Hook up Camper | Attaching Trailer - Fast Easy Safe ruclips.net/video/n8nC7YX0UNU/видео.html
@@DIYOutdoorLife thank you so much for the advice. The Bushwhacker DS is our choice. I'm 74 and have a little experience with towing from my younger days (early 20s about 50 years a go) when I had 16ft bow rider. Again we want to thank you.
Thanks again, Brian, for helping me find a way to charge my battery with solar. I'm going with Renogy 100 watt with charge controller and going directly to my battery of van. The battery is under the hood. What adapter do I need to get for this set up?
Depending on the kit you get, you’ll get everything you need. Does your van have a starting battery and a house battery or you are using one to accomplish both? Will the solar be hooked up all the time or something you set up once you get to camp?
Very helpful video. Just discovered your channel thanks to Playing with Sticks. These tip videos are excellent and to the point. I just picked up my first teardrop, and will be adding solar to the battery stored inside and will definitely find this information helpful in this small project.
You nailed the presentation again. You seem to be a natural at providing the right amount of information in a humble fashion. Speaking of fashion, perhaps it's time to quit your day job as a seamstress and create how 2 videos. All joking aside, I still enjoy your videos.
Great content for a beginner like me. I bought an eco-worthy 200watt kit. It’s ok but for lights, small radio , 12v fridge and wireless devices, with an AGM 12v 100ah battery. Now the system is not enough for me. I’ve thrown a small tv in the “mix” and realized it consumes 50% of my battery quick. I want to cheaply upgrade the system because I only boondock a handful of times a year but for days at a time. Any suggestions will be highly appreciated. Once again, great content !
Is your “10 awg preference over #12 awg comment concerning ampacity ? You mentioned “quality wire as the reason. #12 is usable up to 30 amps ( thhn 90degree celsius copper or CU ) and #10 thhn cu is legit up to 40 amps , which should run your entire rv. Aluminum #12 awg is good for this application also. Who uses aluminum wire for long term applications ? Many times the feeders entering your home panel from the outside power lines are aluminum. It’s not a cheap trick, just think about all that weight floating in the air above houses if it was copper. Weight needs support. Oops, now I’m rambling here. Sorry just another retired career electrician. Great video ! (Is the short response)
Don't ever worry about rambling on the comment section of this channel, we love it! Knowing that you're a retired sparky, i'll try to tip the scales this way- High vibration environments don't like THNN, they like fine gauge marine, automotive, welding, solar wire etc. The damage sustained from wrapping your cords after every use is a far different situation than something like using romex in a wall. With 12VDC, it's voltage drop as much as it is ampacity. For automotive use, #12 copper can carry 12VDC @ 30a for about 12" (30cm). The ambient temperature inside an engine compartment or a tongue box that has solar charging gear is always considered as well. Residential and commercial electricians come to do automotive or solar wiring and think we waste a lot of copper... lol
@@ShiftGearsMoto the easy waterproof options are a lot cheaper, but the options that are not waterproof will work around 25% better. That's the catch 22.
Good video Brian...I was ignorant and fell into the solar on the side trap and ordered a Zamp panel kit with my trailer....way overpriced and I do not even take it along now cuz it weighs twice as much as a 100 panel on my roof rack. Anybody interested in buying a used 100 watt Zamp fold up solar charging kit lol...
haha...If someone wants one, I'll send them your way! You have some set up on your rig, pretty impressive. You're going lifepo4 with major panel wattage now right?
@@DIYOutdoorLife yes I put as much solar on the roof as would fit and went with a LifePo4 battery for a much storage as I can afford (I can fit way more LifePo4 than I can afford lol)....then learn to live within those constraints
@@BirdPhish efficiency is the cheapest modification ..lol Batteries def break the bank. If anyone reads this, check out the BirdPhish channel to see Todd's rig!!!
I love watching your videos but I still can't find the answer that I'm looking for. My camper has a regular small fridge and it has to run off land power along with my AC and microwave I would like to have a solar panel set up where I can take my outside plug and plug it into a solar power where my fridge can run 24/7 off the grid. so what can I use or how or what setup I need to get? I'm still trying to find it. I do a lot of out of town highway work and hotels get expensive and RV parks are not that cheap and being off the grid while I'm working I can't use my refrigerator or AC with no land power and I have to keep stuff in the ice chest and that cost a lot of money and they can't have a whole lot. so I would appreciate your help or what I can use for some type of setup for that. thank you! you do have a new subscriber here. I love your videos
Hey Sharron, Thanks for watching! The reason you're not finding the answer you're looking for is because it's a very complicated topic, can be extremely expensive and often times involves going a route different than what you may have anticipated. I have some time now and will do my best to write a longer response that addresses some of these things.. wish me luck... lol The appliances that you're talking about are designed to run on alternating current as you said, land power. This power that comes from the utility company is nearly infinite and extremely cheap. Although no one likes paying their power bill, when you actually see the amount of power that you consume for that money, it's extraordinary. For that reason, the appliances designed to run off grid tend to be different than the ones that were designed to run on grid. The appliances themself tend to be a lot more money. Even with this, nearly 100% of the time it's cheaper to get all new DC appliances in this situation, than to get a power supply that can handle your original set up. This can get very very expensive. Although we could find you a very good DC refrigerator, most of the time it's in a chest format and you'll have to find a place to put it. The refrigerator here might be the easiest fix. My upgrade to your battery set up and a solar panel could probably handle a new fridge no problem. Let me know if you want help here The battery and solar bank necessary can become cost prohibitive in a hurry. When I design a cabin that has AC and microwave and wants to run 24/7 off grid, it can cost $20-$30,000. Considering the fact that an electrician might charge that to wire a new house, and then you have to pay the power bill each month, it can be a huge savings in that application. When talking about retrofitting a camper, that cost is a different story. You can pay for a lot of campgrounds, or even hotels for that kind of money. For this reason, we try to sensibly cut back. There are small ovens, and other appliances that run on propane, they are not as convenient as a microwave but don't necessitate the huge expensive power bank. Some folks install heat pumps on the side of the camper, they provide cooling for a fraction of the power draw.... big money tho Going down this rabbit hole, 99% of people drop out or cut back significantly. The true cost of having all the things that they want seems out of the question. By far, the cheapest solution, is getting a good quiet generator. You fill it with gas, plug your camper in, and you're off to the races. Others, can't deal with the Generator 24/7... this is the boat that I'm in. If you develop some experience, you can build server racks, or Homebuilt power stations, or boost your battery to an enormous size, and have some great results. You run on battery for as long as you can and fire up the generator when your battery runs low. This avoids the need to run the generator more than once every two or three days. For people willing to spend a decent chunk of money my favorite system by far is the EcoFlow Delta pro with the smart generator . I will post a link to this. It's large enough to plug your entire camper in for good run times. The AC can still be challenging. There's expandable batteries if you need more. Although it's expensive, it's a tremendous bang for the buck. EcoFlow also sells a smart generator that connects to it. It's plug-and-play, simple, and will turn the generator on automatically when the battery runs down low, charge it up very quickly and shut off. think of it like a hybrid car. Depending on the need for add extra battery, it's still pretty steep, but a fraction of what you would spend on comparable systems. I will post a link to the EFDP2, you'll see an option for extra batteries as well, and I'll post a link to the smart generator. I have seen people set this up with solar and live completely off grid with the generator turning on very infrequently. I hope this helps, thanks for watching the channel and subscribing! $1000 off coupon amzn.to/3I4KDC4 amzn.to/4bHICsT
Great video. I guess I'm still confused as to why the solar on the side plug isnt a simple plug and go. I understand having to check the positive vs the negative but why wouldnt it be just one way? I'd like to buy a 100 watt Renogy and just plug it into my GeoPro GoPower solar on the side. Do the Zamp and Go Power wire opposite?? What gives? Also, if I switched to 2 6V batteries the solar on the side should be ok correct? Thanks
The simple answer to your question is because it's a cheap gimmick to sell the trailer as "solar ready". It's just a wire going to the battery. Checking the polarity, you can use whatever solar gear you want, but you cannot plug a solar panel in directly. Whatever package you go with, I have a Renogy in the description that works fine, it has to be an all in one kit. in other words, you have to make sure the system you're using goes to a charge controller, you can't just plug a solar panel into it directly. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
@@jeffs4760 👍 yes, If you match the polarity, youll be fine. I believe the renogy kit even comes with a reverse polarity plug if needed. If not theyre only a few bucks
great video. very informative. Will the Renogy charge a standard deep cycle battery? I just purchased a Coleman Rubicon 1200RK . It came with the battery. Will eventually upgrade. Will probably do 75% of camping where A/C is available so hopefully this unit will meet my needs.
First off, , thanks for all your videos! I have learned a tremendous amount and really appreciate all the work you put into these. My question is the following, I just purchased a new trailer that has the “solar on the side” plug wired in. I have a goal zero yeti 1500x similar to the one in Your video. From a prior video of yours, I learned that using the inverter to the shore power cord is a very inefficient use of power. After doing some research, I called goal zero to discuss more effective ways of using the power from the yeti 1500. It was recommended that I get a cord that would run from the dedicated 12 V cigarette outlet to an SAE cord which could be plugged into this solar on the side input. While in theory, this sounds good to me, I have some Reservations and was hoping to get your thoughts before I try it. Thanks again!!!
I appreciate you watching and it looks like you came to the right place! I actually made two videos specifically addressing what you’re talking about. The first uses the yeti 1500 APP plug, requires a small modification but works incredibly! The second one uses the 12 V cigarette outlet and discusses the limitations and what you MUST make sure to do first. Check out these two videos I’m linking and feel free to follow up if you have any questions. Using Goal Zero for RV Battery ruclips.net/video/_MRIg0Szh-0/видео.html RV Power Station Hack | Interior Back-Feed ruclips.net/video/lf2nbCLuLCY/видео.html
I have looked at several video’s and would like to thank you for making this a lot more understandable… Could I direct message you to help me plan my Tear Drop system?
I have an Aliner Ascape with a 50 w solar panel, there’s a Zamp side solar plug, i am hoping to add more panels, can I do that with the the kit that includes another charge controller? I have learned so much since owning a camper for less than a year, but I know nothing about solar. Your videos are so helpful.
Yes, it is perfectly acceptable to add a second charge controller. In your case, you can buy an all in one kit and run it through your side port. Thank you for watching the videos!
Did I understand you correctly that the fused sea to battery cable is between the charge controller and your battery or batteries? How would that be set up if your batteries set up in parallel. For me pictures always help which is why I find your channel so enjoyable.
You set that up properly by putting the positive of the SAE to battery one and the negative to battery 2. In this way, you are placing a fuse between the charge controller and the battery. By using one wire from the SAE on each battery, you improve its ability to “act as one”. Only the positive side has to be fused. Hope this helps! I wish they would allow me to send a picture, I’d prefer that too.
Hi, and thank you for these great videos. I need a replacement house battery for my LittleGuy 5wide and so I enjoyed your battery comparison video. I have a BigBlue portable folding 120W Solar panel with built-in MPPT controller. Once I replace my battery, can I hook directly to the battery's SAE plug or do I need another controller in between? I don't think so, but I only got to test it once last year in cloudy weather, so I'm not sure it was working and there's all that confusion about whether you have to switch the polarity on a Zamp-ready plug. Thanks.
i’m glad the videos have been helpful. If I understand you properly, your solar panel has a built-in charge controller. If that’s the case, you can wire it directly to the battery. If the MPPT’s output is SAE, then you can get the plug from the video description. That plug will allow you to hook directly from the battery to SAE and you can swap the polarity if you have to. Hope this helps, feel free to follow up if you have more questions.
Thanks for the videos. I just ordered a little guy micro max. Since I have a bluetti 240. I was thinking I could do the same thing but with the cigarette plug on the bluetti. It 10 amps. So my question is without a/c. What is your amp draw. You think this is possible?
That video will be out in 9 days...lol The 10 amp current/ regulated voltage usually gives you a little more that 130 watts top end. That's more than enough for my fridge, lights and furnace or fridge, light, fan in summer. For my rig, the cigarette plug will cover the essentials.
Hey Brian. Love your channel. Great info., clear and precise. Question for you. I have 200 watt Go Power solar already factory installed atop my Popup with a Go Power Control PWM Charger ( came already installed on camper ) I have 2 additonal 100 watt freestanding panels ( without CC ) I would like to use.......BUT do I need a separate Charge Controller for those freestanding, or will the Go Power Charger acknowledge them, without any harm, just by hooking them directly to the battery? I'm a bit confused, and unsure. Thannks in Advance.
They 100 percent need a new charge controller. Hooking them directly will fry the battery. Find a new 20a CC and you can run both sets of panels at once. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info, I was crawling through the land mine lol. You made something that seemed difficult into an easy fix. I have a bluetti eb150 but my 100 watt solar panel won’t charge it it is a watt mobile suitcase panel any suggestions?
Yea, bluettis have an unusually high start up voltage. Unfortunately, you need 2 panels in series (wired positive to negative) in order to charge. It is a bit of an inconvenience, but they do charge very fast.
Thank you for your videos!!! We are complete newbies-but purchased the Oupes 1200 with the 100Watt solar panel. How do I determine what connectors to use to direct charge the camper battery from the solar panel? The igreely was mentioned in the video - however it appears that we need an adaptor from the igreely battery extension cable to connect to the Oupes solar panel. Your help would be appreciated.
Hey Nancy, you will need a charge controller to do that. The Oupes has one built in, your camper does not. The Oupes panel is a 8mm male plug. The goal zero 10a charge controller has a female plug that will fit with a squeeze, otherwise we’ll have to look for adapters. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Hey Brian I have a question about your "solar on the front" trick. Because I have two lead cycle batteries connected to one another on the front, does this mean I have to charge both batteries separately (and thus have one SAE port coming from each battery)? This seems like it is most likely the case, but I also wonder if charging one would charge the other because they're connected. Let me know your thoughts and thank you for the info in this video!
No sir, attach the red to battery #1 positive and the black to battery #2 negative. When you have them wired in series, like you do, it's just like one giant 12v. .
I have to ask because I saw it in one of your recent videos. You had made a sink faucet I've been looking for the parts. I'm not too fond of that 100 ft holes but they give you with the campers. Lol
haha! You mean you don't love the high pressure fire hose from brushing you teeth ?!?! Shoot me an email at DIYOutdoorContent@gmail.com and I'll send you my set up. Thanks for watching!
Hi Brian we love your video's. I have a question we plan on doing some boon docking and just bought an BougeRV 200w CIGS thin-film flexible panel and a PWM 30Amp charge controller. We plan on docking no more than 3 Days at a time. no AC or microwave just lights water pump and furnace blower. So what pair of Batteries would you recommend either 12v or 6v AMG. Thanks jack
I need man, I’m a deer in headlights, don’t know where to purchase a solar panel kit. 200 or 400. I need it just for my refrigerator to charge my cell phone and laptop and use water for my sink./restroom Respectfully Chewy
I have a 100 watt solar panel attached to the roof of my teardrop and it is hooked up to a PMW and then to my 65 ah battery. I have a GoLabs suitcase style 100 watt panel. Can I hook that up to the battery as well? If so, how do I do that?
You sure can! Since your power station has a charge controller built-in, you will need a charge controller to charge the camper battery with your hundred watt panel. It's fine to use 2 charge controllers on a single battery. In this case, you can leave your rooftop solar and PWM alone. You can buy a new charge controller and attach that to your battery and plug your gopower panel into that. That way, you can use your go power panel to charge your power station or plug it into the RV, doubling your solar on the RV when needed
@@DIYOutdoorLife It might take me a bit to digest that. I have copied the info onto a Word document so I can try to wrap my head around it. Luckily I have all winter to try to figure this stuff out. :) Thanks again for your advice.
Can you help me understand the max wattage of solar panels I can use to charge a 12 volt camper system? It's my understanding that 120 watts of solar panel will produce (at max) 10 Amps of charge (120 watts/12 volts), and that 10 Amps is the most you can use to charge a 12 volt system. Am I correct? I see people connecting multiple panels that would result in excess of 120 watts or 10 Amps. Do they know something I don't? Thanks!
It’s a lot more complicated than that but, generally speaking, you’re numbers are really low. You can have a charge going in of any current that stays under the charging current limit of the battery. I’ve installed multiple 12v systems with 100 amp charging. If you have a small lead acid battery, it’s a good idea to not exceed 20-25% of capacity. Let’s say you have 100ah battery using a 20 or 30 amp charge controller is a good max. If you were using a 30 amp, you wouldn’t max out it’s solar. As far as the charge controller is concerned, sometimes it’s receiving up to 20 V from a solar panel, so the current is much lower for the same wattage. What really matters is what it’s delivering to the battery. Depending on your conditions, you could put 300 - 400 W of parallel solar panels on a 20a charge controller on 100ah lead acid with no problems at all. Hope this helps, appreciate you watching!
@@DIYOutdoorLife ...I guess I had that wrong. Some reason I thought the Amps max you could charge the battery was the solar wattage divided by the battery voltage. that said, I have two Costco Interstate 24DC batteries rated at 60 AH each (120 AH total), so it looks like I could easily run 20-30 charging Amps on that system. I will go 6V in series when it comes time to replace. Thank You!
@@muhjeepsrock3161 it’s a very common mistake. The solar panels actually produce a higher voltage and lower current, the conversion takes place at the charge controller. 120 W coming out of the charge controller would indeed be around 9 to 10amps. 120 W coming from the panels into the charge controller, might only be 6 amps because the panels run a higher voltage. Like you said, in your situation a 30 amp charge controller would be great.
Do you consult? I am planning the purchase of a Vistabule, and would like to get your input on the options they provide and what I could do if I was going to set up my own electrical system… I do want to go off grid, but still have use of my fridge and possibly air con, I do use a CPAP but have the AIr Mini that has a 12 volt cable… what’s your opinion on dc air con? I already use some GOALZERO Andy have a good working knowledge of 12 volt system, but no real knowledge on using solar or Yeti power packs…
Hey Andrew, how exciting. The Vistabule is a real work of art. I'm happy to help any way I can, shoot me a line to discuss. diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com
Great information. Will you be going over portable solar panels vs fixed for a teardrop? Can you use both? The teardrop I am looking at has the battery (35 amp) in the cabinet in the galley. He will add another 35 amp battery for $150 or should I delete these and get a 100 amp battery myself? Can the solar shore power plug be added later as the builder wants $150 as an option or should I go for it during the build? Also he has the Zamp 90 Amp solar panel installed with charge controller for $400, is this too expensive? Thanks
Hey Kevin, if you haven’t checked it out already, watch my video “solar 101”. I go over fixed versus portable panels in a general sense there. I will definitely do some more install videos for both types as well. As far as using both, no problems at all. I would definitely recommend getting the 100 amp hour AGM. I don’t know what your particular needs will be but 35 and 70 are too small to store the energy you’ll get from solar. I would take the $400 and spend it on one of the kits in the video description. For that money you could buy the Goal Zero 100w kit, it’s larger and higher quality for the same price. I would spend 400 for zamp 90w. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Question: I’m getting a 2000 w solar battery/generator…should I put rigid panels on my minivan roof or just use 100 or 200 w portable panels ? I plan on living/nomad off grid for an undetermined amount of time ? Ty Brian, appreciate your channel and your input.
I appreciate you! The true answer here is BOTH. A panel on your van can charge while you drive, require no set up, & can be left unattended w/o fear of theft. A portable panel will collect more charge for your power station. Simply by pointing at the sun, your numbers will improve 30%. I would consider your budget and get some panels on your roof. They will charge every second the sun is shining, even if it's at a slow rate, it adds up. Then I would get a panel that can be used portably. By pointing it directly at the sun and moving it to track once a day, your charging speed will be very high. Make sure your panels match well enough to use both at once, check your owners manual or call your company. The parameters have to be comparable to be used together on most systems. Hope this helps!
@@DIYOutdoorLife oh ok, yes it sure does help ! Ty Brian, I haven’t received the battery yet , I’m waiting to read manual before I purchase solar, I’m going to get a bougerv fridge as well, thanks to you so I want to make sure my battery power won’t be struggling. Thank you for your help, no one answers faster than you !
@@kimdagnillo8246 i get the notifications on my phone. I look like a teenager texting all day...lol What battery are you getting, I use all most of them and might know some specs.
Hey Brian. I saw you on the Playing with Sticks youtube video about Bushwackers and came to check out your channel. You mentioned a database for people interested in buying a Bushwacker. Could I get the link to that please? Thanks!
Hi Chris, welcome! I am a few thousand miles from home on a road trip with the Bushwhacker. I will be able to send the excel when I get back home. I’m going to put a video out tomorrow with a lot of pricing information to help people shop. Thanks again for swing by!
Hi Brian. I watched this video and the one on installing the cutoff switch, but I’m not clear on how to use the solar panel “on the front” when I have a cutoff attached. I have a Renogy 100 watt suitcase kit and I normally take the lid off the battery box and use the alligator clips when I want to charge using the panel. I assume there is a better way? Thanks for your help.
Check out my video on it: ruclips.net/video/GNem1s4XNsU/видео.html In short, same battery, same box. Core has smaller inverter, no blue tooth, no ability to connect to link, and smaller mppt… core sells for cheap, x costs a bit more
Depends on the type of RV converter you have. A bunch of them do not need to be connected to a battery, best way to find out is check. With no battery connected, plugged into shore power, does everything work? Please make sure that the wires that would normally go to the battery are taped or separated, otherwise they can short out on your frame when plugged into shore power.
@@DIYOutdoorLife good question lol…I’ve never used solar before. We will be doing some over-landing in Utah this late spring. Probably just a few days and then the rest at a campground. So ya probably just a couple of days off the grid. Electric refrigerator lights radio etc..Just normal usage. Is a 200 hr AGM over kill? Thank you for all your videos you are an amazing teacher. I’m not an electrician but I think I can pull off a basic solar set up thanks to you! I appreciate that.
@@bearswin4610 that’s great news, I’m glad you watch the channel! I think a 200ah AGM will be great, no one complains about having too much… lol Consider getting a 20 amp charge controller. You can use between 100 and 300 W of solar panels on that and should have good results. Keep me in the loop.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Brian thanks for the excellent advice that’s exactly what I’ll do! Keep up the great work. Hopefully I’ll meet up with you sometime at a BW rally!
I still run directly to the battery. If you were going to use a smaller set up, and you can get a waterproof charge controller, then using the plug on the outside will be fine. I don't like it because it's cheap and really limits what you're able to do. It also bothers me that it's a sales pitch that's misleading, there's nothing about it that makes the camper any more ready for solar. If your battery is located inside, it should still be pretty simple to wire the charge controller next to it and run your solar wires into the interior . Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions about doing the job.
Brian please forgive me. I listen and watch carefully. It appears you have a magnificent Japanese Kura-zukuri style mansion next door. What? Wow! That's some in-law suite! Props for living in a diverse and culturally rich neighborhood!
@@DIYOutdoorLife LOL. Hello. "How about the latest Japanese equipment garden?" I know that our Japanese friends 😍 love their gear, as do we. I'm afraid "hello" "thank you" and "1, 2, 3, 4, 5" are as far as I go. But from our overlords at Google: Anata to gokazoku ni heiwa, kenkō, han'ei o oinori itashimasu.
Sir are you available to do a phone consultation for an hour cost? Not sure what you would charge but I’m an idiot with this stuff and would love to ask some questions via FaceTime in front of camper. Please reach out if this is possible and cost
My man, you're like the Mr Rogers of solar panels. Thank you for all the knowledge you've dropped.
Hahaha... will you be my neighbor?
😂😂
Solar noob here. Been watching your basic solar videos. As a retired educator, I have something to say: What a great teacher you are. You don't come across as some arrogant know-it-all but rather, as someone who wants to give the learner, the tools with which to work, in order that they may help themselves to success. Thanks for your videos!
Thank you for the kind words, I appreciate you watching the channel!
@@DIYOutdoorLife well, as great as you were in your instruction, I still messed it up! LOL No biggie, one more viewing (this time, not late at night), and I got it! Nevertheless, no fault of yours...I often get the deer in the headlights look when it comes to electrical. Your instruction was great. Thanks!!!
@@michaelquillen2679youll be a pro in no time!
We scheduled an appointment with our local RV shop to have them show us how to use our ZAMP system. Just cancelled it after watching this! Brian, you saved us time and roughly $90, which would have been the shop's fee for helping us! Thank you for your great videos!
These are my favorite comments, I'm glad you saved some money and hope you have a great experience with your RV
This channel is fantastic. I am just now starting to dive in and learn about solar power, and nothing else I have came across explains things in such a great way. You're giving VERY useful information, and not just trying to pad the run time by telling random stories, instead of delivering the knowledge.
Thank you, I really appreciate you watching the channel. Please share!
This guy is fantastic. I decided against buying a camper but I keep watching his stuff just cause it makes me feel good to watch. I'll probably end up with a camper just because I keep clicking on these videos.
That's really great to hear, thanks for watching! It sounds like you're gonna end up with the camper pretty soon... lol
Just revisiting this video Brian. I wanted to thank you again. With your help alone , I was able to go to totally off grid for two weeks in Maine last summer. In addition to all your other helpful video's, you RULE in all things solar and batteries. Your channel is the best🌞👍👍👍
That's great news, thank you. There is a real feeling of independence when we can stay off grid on the cheap! Thanks for watching!
Dude, this is the second video of you I have watched while preparing to go truck camping for a year or so. You are a natural at explaining things. Thanks man.
Thank you, I really appreciate you tuning in!
This guy is the best RUclipsr. Easy to understand and a great teacher.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate you watching.
Your explanation is very clear sir! Without useless fluff or annoying music. It's how a video should be produced. You just got a subscriber!
I really appreciate you subscribing, I hope you enjoy your other content!
I am not a camper but this is a goldmine of info. I bought a Pecron solar generator with 4 200 watt portable panels. The Pecron can take up to 1300 watts total. I have been into this for a month with my system and now want to build my own. This solar thing is really addicative. Once again thanks you make this so easy to understand!
Thank you so much for swinging by, portable solar can absolutely get addictive. I have more stuff that I know what to do it, I could supply a small town with energy.... lol
Thanks!
Thank you for supporting the channel!
Brian, I have watched several of your videos, and you are definitely providing the best solar information regarding RVs that I have ever seen. I finally feel confident enough to figure out what I need and purchase a right-sized solar system to meet my needs. Thank you very much.
That’s great, thank you so much for watching the videos!
Just got a new subscriber thanks for making this so easy to understand!!!!!! 🍻
Welcome aboard! Thank you so much for watching and subscribing to the channel. 🍻
I listened to your new video at the beach just now! It gave me great camping vibes. You say it’s easy stuff and you make it look easy too!!
Plenty of solar capability at the beach! Thanks for watching!
Great stuff, happy and safe RVing 👍 🏕
Thank you, happy and safe travels to you as well!
Great and valuable video. I just got the Renogy 100W suitcase w/20A waterproof controller on Amzon for $145. Added 10ft 10AWG extension and the iGreely plug you showed. It's a very simple but effective system for a solar newb like me. Going out this Memorial Day to put the system to the test. Thank you for your informative channel.
That's awesome, please keep us in the loop with how you make out!
@@DIYOutdoorLife - it worked great! Thanks again for your channel. It's great info!
@@donoimdono2702 great news
Great video! Finally someone breaking it down well! Good job!
Really appreciate you tuning in! I checked out your channel l too, I’d like to get a metal detector this year.
Man, this is my new favorite channel. Your videos are so great.
Thanks, you’re the best. I appreciate that you’re tuning in.
@@DIYOutdoorLife for sure man thank you...and enjoy your coffee on me ☕️
@@kurtcameron7562 thank you ☕️ 👍
This was excellent and so helpful!!!
Thank you!!!
That's great to hear, I'm glad you are liking the videos!
I just learned something new. I didn't know how to check the polarity. Thank!
It can save you hundreds and give more options. Thanks for watching!
I have the Bushwhacker 10FB, like yours with two doors. You saved me a bunch of time researching. Time to spend some $$$. Thank you so much for this info!
Thank you for watching! It’s true, we get excited and the credit card comes out…lol
Thanks Brian... again. Wish I had watched this last summer. I was so confused about the solar port. I bought a quality 100 w solar panel without a controller. I just camped on the weekends so I never used the panels. Good thing. Now I know exactly what to do thanks to your clear instructions.
That's great. I'm trying to do a lot of content on solar. Thanks for checking it out!
Fantastic video and spot on information. It has helped me to decide what to do with my camper.
That's great to hear, thank you for watching!
Really appreciate all of your how-to videos! So clear and well thought out. Thank you!
Thank you, I really appreciate that.
I say the same thing when I recommend this channel to friends!!! Brian is made for video content! Total natural skills! Not hard to tell he is a teacher.
Awesome video Brian and highly informative! Thanks for dispelling the solar port scam! Information is power (literally in this case)
Btw: Harbor Freight was giving away free multimeters with any purchase. I gave several away and made new friends that I didn't have lol
Haha… gotta love free stuff! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the link to the fused connector! I'll make sure to pick one up before our install as I don't think my renogy kit comes with one. Should have the last piece for it this week!
Solid! Skipping that solar on the side will be the way to go with your FS for sure. Depending on the kit you're getting, you might need the MC4 to SAE plug I included too, tough to say without seeing your kit. Lemme know how you make out!
I like ur vids man very informative easy to follow. Well done
Thank you, I really appreciate that you watch the videos!
Man you should have 10 times the subs!! Thanks again!
Thank you, maybe some day 🤷♂️
Brian, What brand of portable solar panels do you recommend. We will be getting a Highcamp teardrop in October. It will have a propex heater, dometic compressor fridge, and Led lighting. It comes with a 100 aH AGM battery. My wife and I enjoy your Videos and find them very informative. Thanks in advance for your help and advice on this.
There's so much stuff on the market these days, a kit like this is hard to beat. It's a glass panel, that is still portable, with a waterproof charge controller included. They give you everything you need to hook it up although most people find that a few simple modifications make it best.
You'll be able to connect to your battery out of the box, and see whether you want to replace the plugs with extension wires that are longer or hard wire a plug to the battery like I do. I think the 200w set up would be best.
Thanks for watching, let me know how you make out.
amzn.to/3Cp1NHu
Very helpful. Thank you for the blessing.
Thank you so much for watching 🙏🏻
I just found your channel and instantly subscribed. My two favorite videos so far are this one, and the power bank video. My family just sold our small trailer (similar size to your teardrop), and we bought a 35' fifth wheel because we're going full-time for a year or so. We'll be plugged in most often, but we LOVE boondocking. Do you think we could get away with just some extra solar, and maybe a power station, in lieu of bringing a noisy gas generator? I understand we would forego our ability to use the bigger systems (AC and maybe tv, which we don't watch anyway). My primary concern is that we keep our batteries charged so lights/fridge work, and we have enough juice to bring slides in and hitch back up to the truck after a week off-grid. We currently have 2 85 amp/hr batteries, but I might upgrade to AGMs, per your other video.
I know there's a lot baked in here, but maybe some other large RV owners would like to know. We don't want to be those loud, generator-using people. :)
Thanks! -Brian
Thank you so much for tuning in, great question. As you suspected, it's a bit of a bigger issue, pretty difficult to respond to a simple text... I'll do my best.
My favorite set up for bigger rigs is keeping your battery very
simple. You might not need to upgrade your battery at all.
Instead, I will link a video where I do a mod that allows you to run the camper off of the power station DC. This is orders of magnitude more efficient than plugging it in to the AC outlet on a power station. It will run several times longer and save you a lot of money.
if you do need to run AC receptacle power, it's easy enough to just plug into the power station. Most of us can do without, and use it sparingly for best results. I will post a link to a very large power station that can do this job very well, it's also expandable with add-on batteries. With the add on batteries, you might find that you don't need Generator at all, maybe even a small solar panel will be enough to meet your needs.
If your needs are more demanding, bring the Generator along, you only need to run the noisy thing for an hour or so to charge up the power station. Some people can get several days or more on the power station alone, firing up the generator for an hour and a half to charge it back up, and then they're able to go several more days. This proves to be excellent, w less Generator noise, not needing all of the solar, and getting to pick and choose the best time to run the generator for a short period.
I hope this makes sense and is helpful. I will post my favorite PowerStation link, for the unit that can do what I'm talking about and charge really fast. I will also post a link of the video where I do the modification, you can ignore the power station I'm using in that video and use the EF one that I link.
Let me know what you think.
amzn.to/3HDiSA1
ruclips.net/video/_MRIg0Szh-0/видео.htmlfeature=shared
@@DIYOutdoorLife that is another AWESOME video, and perfectly explains what I need to do.
2 more things came to mind:
1) Do I NEED a larger power station, or could I theoretically get away with something like a Goal Zero 1500 and a solar panel, I was taking day trips in our truck and re-charging the Goal Zero each time I did that. Just trying to cut down on space/weight, and also cost, though I certainly see the wisdom of a larger unit.
2) Your battery disconnect made perfect sense. Our battery shutoff control is in a separate compartment as our batteries. Essentially, just a dividing wall. Should I just install the Anderson connector in the batter bay, where the +/- cable comes from the controller and to the battery?
@@dadstuffandthings do you already own a 1500 X? If so, start with that and see how it goes, no sense buying a new system. If you don't, I think I could find some newer units that might work a little better for the $. Let me know if you want already, and I can give some advice if needed.
As far as where to install the Anderson, it's not really responsible for me to give too much advice without seeing the system . A general rule of thumb, the closer to the battery, the better. if there's not a switch there, it's cheap enough to add one and it might be worth your while. Keep me filled in with the project, sounds fun!
@@DIYOutdoorLife I hear ya on the exact electrical advice 😀 kinda like asking “my car is making a weird noise, can you tell me what it is over the phone?
I don’t own a power station yet, so am definitely open to advice!
@@dadstuffandthings the yeti 1500 is an awesome set up, it's been go to for years.
Lately, there are other brands that make power stations that can do the same thing for less money. One thing that's important, is the ability to expand it down the road. Although the Goal zero yeti has expansion batteries, the technology is pretty outdated. I will post a link to Oupes website. The mega 2 is expandable, larger, and a lot less money than Goal zero. I also have a video on my channel reviewing the mega two, it would probably be my recommendation in your situation. It's an awesome expandable platform for less money (it has a DC 30 amp output like the Goal zero)
shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1865808&u=3135070&m=116483&urllink=&afftrack=
Thank you so much for posting this! I didn’t want to do solar on my older RV and run wires because it got pretty complicated. This made things so much easier! Do you have a video on how to connect these setups to the house battery? Seems easy but I just want to see it.
Thank you for watching!
If you look at the playlist feature on the channel, there is one on solar. I’ve shown a bunch of different ways to connect with all in one systems, charge controllers and panels… hope it helps!
Would love to see a video on your advice of what is needed (sway bars etc) for a newbie to purchase for a stress free experience of a bushwhacker plus.
Hey Alan, happy to help any way I can. What are you using as a tow vehicle?
@@DIYOutdoorLife 2017 nissan pathfinder with tow package.
@@alanlevine3984 Nice, which Bushwhacker plus?
For me personally, I would skip sway bars or a weight distribution hitch for that set up. Your tow vehicle has more than enough capability to pull and stop the trailer and it will ride stable when you have a good, balanced load. You can always add a sway bar if you’re getting some wobbles at higher speeds, most won’t need.
You’ll find different opinions on this but I find it easier and more stress free to do less rather than more when it comes to these smaller trailers.
Go back to my older videos, review how to easily couple and decouple, make sure your hitch height is correct, balance tongue weight and practice backing up in an empty parking lot and you’ll be a more in no time. Practice and experience makes you confident and confidence will keep the stress down. Happy camping!
How to Hook up Camper | Attaching Trailer - Fast Easy Safe
ruclips.net/video/n8nC7YX0UNU/видео.html
@@DIYOutdoorLife thank you so much for the advice. The Bushwhacker DS is our choice. I'm 74 and have a little experience with towing from my younger days (early 20s about 50 years a go) when I had 16ft bow rider. Again we want to thank you.
@@alanlevine3984 anytime! Circle back, I’d love to hear how you make out.
Thanks again, Brian, for helping me find a way to charge my battery with solar. I'm going with Renogy 100 watt with charge controller and going directly to my battery of van. The battery is under the hood. What adapter do I need to get for this set up?
Depending on the kit you get, you’ll get everything you need. Does your van have a starting battery and a house battery or you are using one to accomplish both? Will the solar be hooked up all the time or something you set up once you get to camp?
Very helpful video. Just discovered your channel thanks to Playing with Sticks. These tip videos are excellent and to the point. I just picked up my first teardrop, and will be adding solar to the battery stored inside and will definitely find this information helpful in this small project.
Hello and welcome! I'm really glad you found this helpful. Feel free to reach out any time with requests or questions.
-Brian
You nailed the presentation again. You seem to be a natural at providing the right amount of information in a humble fashion. Speaking of fashion, perhaps it's time to quit your day job as a seamstress and create how 2 videos. All joking aside, I still enjoy your videos.
Haha… seamstress??
@@DIYOutdoorLife I was told you keep people in stitches...
@@Fingerprintguy haha… 😆
Great content for a beginner like me. I bought an eco-worthy 200watt kit. It’s ok but for lights, small radio , 12v fridge and wireless devices, with an AGM 12v 100ah battery. Now the system is not enough for me. I’ve thrown a small tv in the “mix” and realized it consumes 50% of my battery quick. I want to cheaply upgrade the system because I only boondock a handful of times a year but for days at a time. Any suggestions will be highly appreciated. Once again, great content !
I would go with a power station. Very versatile and works great in that situation and can be used at home as well.
amzn.to/3N9uuxY
Oh my I am learning a little more!
That's great news, thank you so much for watching!
Once again. Thank you. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Is your “10 awg preference over #12 awg comment concerning ampacity ? You mentioned “quality wire as the reason. #12 is usable up to 30 amps ( thhn 90degree celsius copper or CU ) and #10 thhn cu is legit up to 40 amps , which should run your entire rv. Aluminum #12 awg is good for this application also. Who uses aluminum wire for long term applications ? Many times the feeders entering your home panel from the outside power lines are aluminum. It’s not a cheap trick, just think about all that weight floating in the air above houses if it was copper. Weight needs support. Oops, now I’m rambling here. Sorry just another retired career electrician. Great video ! (Is the short response)
Don't ever worry about rambling on the comment section of this channel, we love it!
Knowing that you're a retired sparky, i'll try to tip the scales this way- High vibration environments don't like THNN, they like fine gauge marine, automotive, welding, solar wire etc. The damage sustained from wrapping your cords after every use is a far different situation than something like using romex in a wall.
With 12VDC, it's voltage drop as much as it is ampacity.
For automotive use, #12 copper can carry 12VDC @ 30a for about 12" (30cm). The ambient temperature inside an engine compartment or a tongue box that has solar charging gear is always considered as well.
Residential and commercial electricians come to do automotive or solar wiring and think we waste a lot of copper... lol
Another great video. What adapter do you recommend with the renogy 100 watt panel? I do have the solar on the side port.
Thank you for tuning in. Do you need a waterproof option or will it be protected from the elements?
@@DIYOutdoorLifeI’d consider both options depending on the price.
@@ShiftGearsMoto
the easy waterproof options are a lot cheaper, but the options that are not waterproof will work around 25% better. That's the catch 22.
Check this video out...
DIY Charge Controller | Installation Options
ruclips.net/video/4_2_Xt4eOoM/видео.html
Good video Brian...I was ignorant and fell into the solar on the side trap and ordered a Zamp panel kit with my trailer....way overpriced and I do not even take it along now cuz it weighs twice as much as a 100 panel on my roof rack. Anybody interested in buying a used 100 watt Zamp fold up solar charging kit lol...
haha...If someone wants one, I'll send them your way! You have some set up on your rig, pretty impressive. You're going lifepo4 with major panel wattage now right?
@@DIYOutdoorLife yes I put as much solar on the roof as would fit and went with a LifePo4 battery for a much storage as I can afford (I can fit way more LifePo4 than I can afford lol)....then learn to live within those constraints
@@BirdPhish efficiency is the cheapest modification ..lol Batteries def break the bank.
If anyone reads this, check out the BirdPhish channel to see Todd's rig!!!
Some good info Brian, thanks!
Thanks John, you getting out with the rig much?
@@DIYOutdoorLife In a week or so i have a fishing/camping trip with my dad.
@@johnwdavisjr solid, that's what it's all about
Binge watching your videos. I wish I'd found this channel 2 years ago, I'd be a lot less confused than I've been all this time. LOL
I'm glad you found us, off to the races now!
Excellent info.
Thank you, glad it was helpful!
Good info, and actually gave me a great idea! 🧐 Thanks!
say more sir.... lol
Thank you!!👍
Thank you, I appreciate you watching!
I love watching your videos but I still can't find the answer that I'm looking for. My camper has a regular small fridge and it has to run off land power along with my AC and microwave I would like to have a solar panel set up where I can take my outside plug and plug it into a solar power where my fridge can run 24/7 off the grid. so what can I use or how or what setup I need to get? I'm still trying to find it. I do a lot of out of town highway work and hotels get expensive and RV parks are not that cheap and being off the grid while I'm working I can't use my refrigerator or AC with no land power and I have to keep stuff in the ice chest and that cost a lot of money and they can't have a whole lot. so I would appreciate your help or what I can use for some type of setup for that. thank you! you do have a new subscriber here. I love your videos
Hey Sharron,
Thanks for watching!
The reason you're not finding the answer you're looking for is because it's a very complicated topic, can be extremely expensive and often times involves going a route different than what you may have anticipated. I have some time now and will do my best to write a longer response that addresses some of these things.. wish me luck... lol
The appliances that you're talking about are designed to run on alternating current as you said, land power. This power that comes from the utility company is nearly infinite and extremely cheap. Although no one likes paying their power bill, when you actually see the amount of power that you consume for that money, it's extraordinary.
For that reason, the appliances designed to run off grid tend to be different than the ones that were designed to run on grid. The appliances themself tend to be a lot more money. Even with this, nearly 100% of the time it's cheaper to get all new DC appliances in this situation, than to get a power supply that can handle your original set up. This can get very very expensive. Although we could find you a very good DC refrigerator, most of the time it's in a chest format and you'll have to find a place to put it. The refrigerator here might be the easiest fix. My upgrade to your battery set up and a solar panel could probably handle a new fridge no problem. Let me know if you want help here
The battery and solar bank necessary can become cost prohibitive in a hurry. When I design a cabin that has AC and microwave and wants to run 24/7 off grid, it can cost $20-$30,000. Considering the fact that an electrician might charge that to wire a new house, and then you have to pay the power bill each month, it can be a huge savings in that application. When talking about retrofitting a camper, that cost is a different story. You can pay for a lot of campgrounds, or even hotels for that kind of money.
For this reason, we try to sensibly cut back. There are small ovens, and other appliances that run on propane, they are not as convenient as a microwave but don't necessitate the huge expensive power bank. Some folks install heat pumps on the side of the camper, they provide cooling for a fraction of the power draw.... big money tho
Going down this rabbit hole, 99% of people drop out or cut back significantly. The true cost of having all the things that they want seems out of the question.
By far, the cheapest solution, is getting a good quiet generator. You fill it with gas, plug your camper in, and you're off to the races. Others, can't deal with the Generator 24/7... this is the boat that I'm in.
If you develop some experience, you can build server racks, or Homebuilt power stations, or boost your battery to an enormous size, and have some great results. You run on battery for as long as you can and fire up the generator when your battery runs low. This avoids the need to run the generator more than once every two or three days.
For people willing to spend a decent chunk of money my favorite system by far is the EcoFlow Delta pro with the smart generator . I will post a link to this. It's large enough to plug your entire camper in for good run times. The AC can still be challenging. There's expandable batteries if you need more. Although it's expensive, it's a tremendous bang for the buck. EcoFlow also sells a smart generator that connects to it. It's plug-and-play, simple, and will turn the generator on automatically when the battery runs down low, charge it up very quickly and shut off. think of it like a hybrid car. Depending on the need for add extra battery, it's still pretty steep, but a fraction of what you would spend on comparable systems.
I will post a link to the EFDP2, you'll see an option for extra batteries as well, and I'll post a link to the smart generator. I have seen people set this up with solar and live completely off grid with the generator turning on very infrequently.
I hope this helps, thanks for watching the channel and subscribing!
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Great video. I guess I'm still confused as to why the solar on the side plug isnt a simple plug and go. I understand having to check the positive vs the negative but why wouldnt it be just one way? I'd like to buy a 100 watt Renogy and just plug it into my GeoPro GoPower solar on the side. Do the Zamp and Go Power wire opposite?? What gives? Also, if I switched to 2 6V batteries the solar on the side should be ok correct? Thanks
The simple answer to your question is because it's a cheap gimmick to sell the trailer as "solar ready".
It's just a wire going to the battery. Checking the polarity, you can use whatever solar gear you want, but you cannot plug a solar panel in directly. Whatever package you go with, I have a Renogy in the description that works fine, it has to be an all in one kit. in other words, you have to make sure the system you're using goes to a charge controller, you can't just plug a solar panel into it directly.
Hope this helps, thanks for watching
@@DIYOutdoorLife10-4, thanks for the reply. I do know you need a charge controller with the panel. It was just a matter of the plugs polarity.
@@jeffs4760 👍 yes, If you match the polarity, youll be fine. I believe the renogy kit even comes with a reverse polarity plug if needed. If not theyre only a few bucks
great video. very informative. Will the Renogy charge a standard deep cycle battery? I just purchased a Coleman Rubicon 1200RK . It came with the battery. Will eventually upgrade. Will probably do 75% of camping where A/C is available so hopefully this unit will meet my needs.
Yes, it certainly will. It’s a great and expensive option for what you’re looking for.
First off, , thanks for all your videos! I have learned a tremendous amount and really appreciate all the work you put into these.
My question is the following, I just purchased a new trailer that has the “solar on the side” plug wired in. I have a goal zero yeti 1500x similar to the one in Your video. From a prior video of yours, I learned that using the inverter to the shore power cord is a very inefficient use of power. After doing some research, I called goal zero to discuss more effective ways of using the power from the yeti 1500. It was recommended that I get a cord that would run from the dedicated 12 V cigarette outlet to an SAE cord which could be plugged into this solar on the side input. While in theory, this sounds good to me, I have some Reservations and was hoping to get your thoughts before I try it. Thanks again!!!
I appreciate you watching and it looks like you came to the right place!
I actually made two videos specifically addressing what you’re talking about.
The first uses the yeti 1500 APP plug, requires a small modification but works incredibly!
The second one uses the 12 V cigarette outlet and discusses the limitations and what you MUST make sure to do first.
Check out these two videos I’m linking and feel free to follow up if you have any questions.
Using Goal Zero for RV Battery
ruclips.net/video/_MRIg0Szh-0/видео.html
RV Power Station Hack | Interior Back-Feed
ruclips.net/video/lf2nbCLuLCY/видео.html
I have looked at several video’s and would like to thank you for making this a lot more understandable… Could I direct message you to help me plan my Tear Drop system?
thank you, of course. diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com
I have an Aliner Ascape with a 50 w solar panel, there’s a Zamp side solar plug, i am hoping to add more panels, can I do that with the the kit that includes another charge controller? I have learned so much since owning a camper for less than a year, but I know nothing about solar. Your videos are so helpful.
Yes, it is perfectly acceptable to add a second charge controller. In your case, you can buy an all in one kit and run it through your side port.
Thank you for watching the videos!
Very helpful. Thank you!
That's great to hear, thank you for watching!
Did I understand you correctly that the fused sea to battery cable is between the charge controller and your battery or batteries? How would that be set up if your batteries set up in parallel. For me pictures always help which is why I find your channel so enjoyable.
You set that up properly by putting the positive of the SAE to battery one and the negative to battery 2.
In this way, you are placing a fuse between the charge controller and the battery. By using one wire from the SAE on each battery, you improve its ability to “act as one”. Only the positive side has to be fused.
Hope this helps! I wish they would allow me to send a picture, I’d prefer that too.
NICE! Well done.
Thank you, I appreciate you watching!
Good stuff 👍 thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent.
Thanks for tuning in!
Hi, and thank you for these great videos. I need a replacement house battery for my LittleGuy 5wide and so I enjoyed your battery comparison video. I have a BigBlue portable folding 120W Solar panel with built-in MPPT controller. Once I replace my battery, can I hook directly to the battery's SAE plug or do I need another controller in between? I don't think so, but I only got to test it once last year in cloudy weather, so I'm not sure it was working and there's all that confusion about whether you have to switch the polarity on a Zamp-ready plug. Thanks.
i’m glad the videos have been helpful. If I understand you properly, your solar panel has a built-in charge controller. If that’s the case, you can wire it directly to the battery. If the MPPT’s output is SAE, then you can get the plug from the video description. That plug will allow you to hook directly from the battery to SAE and you can swap the polarity if you have to. Hope this helps, feel free to follow up if you have more questions.
Thanks for making this video
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the videos. I just ordered a little guy micro max. Since I have a bluetti 240. I was thinking I could do the same thing but with the cigarette plug on the bluetti. It 10 amps. So my question is without a/c. What is your amp draw. You think this is possible?
That video will be out in 9 days...lol
The 10 amp current/ regulated voltage usually gives you a little more that 130 watts top end. That's more than enough for my fridge, lights and furnace or fridge, light, fan in summer. For my rig, the cigarette plug will cover the essentials.
Hey Brian. Love your channel. Great info., clear and precise. Question for you. I have 200 watt Go Power solar already factory installed atop my Popup with a Go Power Control PWM Charger ( came already installed on camper ) I have 2 additonal 100 watt freestanding panels ( without CC ) I would like to use.......BUT do I need a separate Charge Controller for those freestanding, or will the Go Power Charger acknowledge them, without any harm, just by hooking them directly to the battery? I'm a bit confused, and unsure. Thannks in Advance.
They 100 percent need a new charge controller. Hooking them directly will fry the battery.
Find a new 20a CC and you can run both sets of panels at once.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info, I was crawling through the land mine lol. You made something that seemed difficult into an easy fix. I have a bluetti eb150 but my 100 watt solar panel won’t charge it it is a watt mobile suitcase panel any suggestions?
Yea, bluettis have an unusually high start up voltage. Unfortunately, you need 2 panels in series (wired positive to negative) in order to charge. It is a bit of an inconvenience, but they do charge very fast.
Thanks for the he reply! Your videos are very helpful!!
Thank you for your videos!!! We are complete newbies-but purchased the Oupes 1200 with the 100Watt solar panel. How do I determine what connectors to use to direct charge the camper battery from the solar panel? The igreely was mentioned in the video - however it appears that we need an adaptor from the igreely battery extension cable to connect to the Oupes solar panel. Your help would be appreciated.
Hey Nancy, you will need a charge controller to do that. The Oupes has one built in, your camper does not.
The Oupes panel is a 8mm male plug. The goal zero 10a charge controller has a female plug that will fit with a squeeze, otherwise we’ll have to look for adapters. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Hey Brian I have a question about your "solar on the front" trick. Because I have two lead cycle batteries connected to one another on the front, does this mean I have to charge both batteries separately (and thus have one SAE port coming from each battery)? This seems like it is most likely the case, but I also wonder if charging one would charge the other because they're connected. Let me know your thoughts and thank you for the info in this video!
No sir, attach the red to battery #1 positive and the black to battery #2 negative. When you have them wired in series, like you do, it's just like one giant 12v.
.
This video is great, for your system always charge together
ruclips.net/video/sN2mkvUOL5E/видео.html
@@DIYOutdoorLife Phew, thanks!
I have to ask because I saw it in one of your recent videos. You had made a sink faucet I've been looking for the parts. I'm not too fond of that 100 ft holes but they give you with the campers. Lol
haha! You mean you don't love the high pressure fire hose from brushing you teeth ?!?! Shoot me an email at DIYOutdoorContent@gmail.com and I'll send you my set up. Thanks for watching!
Hi Brian we love your video's. I have a question we plan on doing some boon docking and just bought an BougeRV 200w CIGS thin-film flexible panel and a PWM 30Amp charge controller. We plan on docking no more than 3 Days at a time. no AC or microwave just lights water pump and furnace blower. So what pair of Batteries would you recommend either 12v or 6v AMG. Thanks jack
Either one would work fine. Go for the highest amount of AH that you can fit in the space and budget.
Happy camping!
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you, I thought you said that the 6 volt Batteries were the best option in a previous video. Thanks
@@dawnredder706 it’s a moving target. They’re both great, comes down to what price you’re paying.
Awesome!!
Thanks for watching!
I need man, I’m a deer in headlights, don’t know where to purchase a solar panel kit. 200 or 400. I need it just for my refrigerator to charge my cell phone and laptop and use water for my sink./restroom
Respectfully Chewy
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I have a 100 watt solar panel attached to the roof of my teardrop and it is hooked up to a PMW and then to my 65 ah battery. I have a GoLabs suitcase style 100 watt panel. Can I hook that up to the battery as well? If so, how do I do that?
You sure can! Since your power station has a charge controller built-in, you will need a charge controller to charge the camper battery with your hundred watt panel.
It's fine to use 2 charge controllers on a single battery. In this case, you can leave your rooftop solar and PWM alone. You can buy a new charge controller and attach that to your battery and plug your gopower panel into that. That way, you can use your go power panel to charge your power station or plug it into the RV, doubling your solar on the RV when needed
@@DIYOutdoorLife It might take me a bit to digest that. I have copied the info onto a Word document so I can try to wrap my head around it. Luckily I have all winter to try to figure this stuff out. :) Thanks again for your advice.
Can you help me understand the max wattage of solar panels I can use to charge a 12 volt camper system? It's my understanding that 120 watts of solar panel will produce (at max) 10 Amps of charge (120 watts/12 volts), and that 10 Amps is the most you can use to charge a 12 volt system. Am I correct? I see people connecting multiple panels that would result in excess of 120 watts or 10 Amps. Do they know something I don't? Thanks!
It’s a lot more complicated than that but, generally speaking, you’re numbers are really low.
You can have a charge going in of any current that stays under the charging current limit of the battery. I’ve installed multiple 12v systems with 100 amp charging.
If you have a small lead acid battery, it’s a good idea to not exceed 20-25% of capacity. Let’s say you have 100ah battery using a 20 or 30 amp charge controller is a good max. If you were using a 30 amp, you wouldn’t max out it’s solar.
As far as the charge controller is concerned, sometimes it’s receiving up to 20 V from a solar panel, so the current is much lower for the same wattage. What really matters is what it’s delivering to the battery. Depending on your conditions, you could put 300 - 400 W of parallel solar panels on a 20a charge controller on 100ah lead acid with no problems at all.
Hope this helps, appreciate you watching!
@@DIYOutdoorLife ...I guess I had that wrong. Some reason I thought the Amps max you could charge the battery was the solar wattage divided by the battery voltage. that said, I have two Costco Interstate 24DC batteries rated at 60 AH each (120 AH total), so it looks like I could easily run 20-30 charging Amps on that system. I will go 6V in series when it comes time to replace. Thank You!
@@muhjeepsrock3161 it’s a very common mistake. The solar panels actually produce a higher voltage and lower current, the conversion takes place at the charge controller. 120 W coming out of the charge controller would indeed be around 9 to 10amps. 120 W coming from the panels into the charge controller, might only be 6 amps because the panels run a higher voltage. Like you said, in your situation a 30 amp charge controller would be great.
Do you consult? I am planning the purchase of a Vistabule, and would like to get your input on the options they provide and what I could do if I was going to set up my own electrical system… I do want to go off grid, but still have use of my fridge and possibly air con, I do use a CPAP but have the AIr Mini that has a 12 volt cable… what’s your opinion on dc air con? I already use some GOALZERO Andy have a good working knowledge of 12 volt system, but no real knowledge on using solar or Yeti power packs…
Hey Andrew, how exciting. The Vistabule is a real work of art. I'm happy to help any way I can, shoot me a line to discuss. diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com
Great information. Will you be going over portable solar panels vs fixed for a teardrop? Can you use both? The teardrop I am looking at has the battery (35 amp) in the cabinet in the galley. He will add another 35 amp battery for $150 or should I delete these and get a 100 amp battery myself? Can the solar shore power plug be added later as the builder wants $150 as an option or should I go for it during the build? Also he has the Zamp 90 Amp solar panel installed with charge controller for $400, is this too expensive? Thanks
Hey Kevin, if you haven’t checked it out already, watch my video “solar 101”. I go over fixed versus portable panels in a general sense there. I will definitely do some more install videos for both types as well. As far as using both, no problems at all.
I would definitely recommend getting the 100 amp hour AGM. I don’t know what your particular needs will be but 35 and 70 are too small to store the energy you’ll get from solar.
I would take the $400 and spend it on one of the kits in the video description. For that money you could buy the Goal Zero 100w kit, it’s larger and higher quality for the same price. I would spend 400 for zamp 90w.
Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
hi Brian amazing video, can I buy this kit from Amazon?
Yes, links are in the video description. If you have trouble finding, let me know and I’ll shoot you the link directly.
Here’s the 100 and 200 kit from GZ
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@@DIYOutdoorLife thank BOSS
@@DIYOutdoorLife thanks, Subscribe to this channel forever
Question: I’m getting a 2000 w solar battery/generator…should I put rigid panels on my minivan roof or just use 100 or 200 w portable panels ? I plan on living/nomad off grid for an undetermined amount of time ? Ty Brian, appreciate your channel and your input.
I appreciate you! The true answer here is BOTH.
A panel on your van can charge while you drive, require no set up, & can be left unattended w/o fear of theft.
A portable panel will collect more charge for your power station. Simply by pointing at the sun, your numbers will improve 30%.
I would consider your budget and get some panels on your roof. They will charge every second the sun is shining, even if it's at a slow rate, it adds up.
Then I would get a panel that can be used portably. By pointing it directly at the sun and moving it to track once a day, your charging speed will be very high. Make sure your panels match well enough to use both at once, check your owners manual or call your company. The parameters have to be comparable to be used together on most systems.
Hope this helps!
@@DIYOutdoorLife oh ok, yes it sure does help ! Ty Brian, I haven’t received the battery yet , I’m waiting to read manual before I purchase solar, I’m going to get a bougerv fridge as well, thanks to you so I want to make sure my battery power won’t be struggling. Thank you for your help, no one answers faster than you !
@@kimdagnillo8246 i get the notifications on my phone. I look like a teenager texting all day...lol What battery are you getting, I use all most of them and might know some specs.
Hey Brian. I saw you on the Playing with Sticks youtube video about Bushwackers and came to check out your channel. You mentioned a database for people interested in buying a Bushwacker. Could I get the link to that please? Thanks!
Hi Chris, welcome! I am a few thousand miles from home on a road trip with the Bushwhacker. I will be able to send the excel when I get back home. I’m going to put a video out tomorrow with a lot of pricing information to help people shop. Thanks again for swing by!
@@DIYOutdoorLife Sounds great. Enjoy the road trip.
Hi Brian. I watched this video and the one on installing the cutoff switch, but I’m not clear on how to use the solar panel “on the front” when I have a cutoff attached. I have a Renogy 100 watt suitcase kit and I normally take the lid off the battery box and use the alligator clips when I want to charge using the panel. I assume there is a better way? Thanks for your help.
Hey Kathy, doing your renogy kit have alligators that unplug?
Yes, I can detach them from the control panel. I can take a pic and share it with you on the Bushwhacker Owners Facebook page if you like.
@@kathyponto6163 send me a PM and we’ll go over it 😀
Hey Brian, I sent you a message through Facebook Messenger. Did you get it?
What is the difference between the 1000 X and the Goal Zero1000 Core?
Forget it I just saw your other video where you describe just that!
Check out my video on it:
ruclips.net/video/GNem1s4XNsU/видео.html
In short, same battery, same box. Core has smaller inverter, no blue tooth, no ability to connect to link, and smaller mppt… core sells for cheap, x costs a bit more
@@dag36523 I appreciate you tuning in, I hope the videos help
Do I need my batter connected when I’m on shore power or generator
Depends on the type of RV converter you have. A bunch of them do not need to be connected to a battery, best way to find out is check. With no battery connected, plugged into shore power, does everything work? Please make sure that the wires that would normally go to the battery are taped or separated, otherwise they can short out on your frame when plugged into shore power.
Appreciate the quick response … you guys are awesome I’ll have to check on my converter.. but I yes everything does work when I’m hooked up
@@aldomendoza9046 good news then, your converter can supply 12v w/o battery. thanks for watching!
Really appreciate the help god bless
Hello Brian I’m buying a Bushwacker 12sk I want to use a 200 Amp hour AGM. What size panel and CC should I use?
Ron
Hey Ron, how much solar will you use?
@@DIYOutdoorLife good question lol…I’ve never used solar before. We will be doing some over-landing in Utah this late spring. Probably just a few days and then the rest at a campground. So ya probably just a couple of days off the grid. Electric refrigerator lights radio etc..Just normal usage. Is a 200 hr AGM over kill? Thank you for all your videos you are an amazing teacher. I’m not an electrician but I think I can pull off a basic solar set up thanks to you! I appreciate that.
@@bearswin4610 that’s great news, I’m glad you watch the channel! I think a 200ah AGM will be great, no one complains about having too much… lol
Consider getting a 20 amp charge controller. You can use between 100 and 300 W of solar panels on that and should have good results. Keep me in the loop.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Brian thanks for the excellent advice that’s exactly what I’ll do! Keep up the great work. Hopefully I’ll meet up with you sometime at a BW rally!
@@bearswin4610 see you there !!!
What about if your battery is stored inside your camper? You said that plug on the outside is not really good to use
I still run directly to the battery. If you were going to use a smaller set up, and you can get a waterproof charge controller, then using the plug on the outside will be fine.
I don't like it because it's cheap and really limits what you're able to do. It also bothers me that it's a sales pitch that's misleading, there's nothing about it that makes the camper any more ready for solar.
If your battery is located inside, it should still be pretty simple to wire the charge controller next to it and run your solar wires into the interior . Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions about doing the job.
Brian please forgive me. I listen and watch carefully.
It appears you have a magnificent Japanese Kura-zukuri style mansion next door.
What? Wow! That's some in-law suite!
Props for living in a diverse and culturally rich neighborhood!
This is my home... lol I live in a Japanese Zen Monastery 😃
@@DIYOutdoorLife Konichi-wa Brian-san
@@johncook1080konnichi wa gokiken ikaga desu ka !
@@DIYOutdoorLife LOL. Hello. "How about the latest Japanese equipment garden?"
I know that our Japanese friends 😍 love their gear, as do we.
I'm afraid "hello" "thank you" and "1, 2, 3, 4, 5" are as far as I go.
But from our overlords at Google:
Anata to gokazoku ni heiwa, kenkō, han'ei o oinori itashimasu.
Sir are you available to do a phone consultation for an hour cost? Not sure what you would charge but I’m an idiot with this stuff and would love to ask some questions via FaceTime in front of camper. Please reach out if this is possible and cost
Hey Kerby, sorry for delay. Email me at diyoutdoorcontent@ gmail and I’ll see if I can help you out.
Brian
na mu sa man da !
PO do nan pan
"And if you don't have any friends" 😆😅
LoL
I know a little more.
that’s good, thanks for watching!
Ha ha. Funny guy ;)
😂
"Fast and easy solar set up" makes a 15-minute video explaining things you don't need to know.
Sorry it wasnt right for you. Which part didnt you need to know?
Instructions unclear, cord wrapped around neck , send help !
Haha… If you have a specific question, I’d be happy to try to help. What type of gear do you have?
Thanks!
Thank you so much for supporting the channel, much appreciated!
Great video!
Thanks for watching. I hope you’re subscribe!