I stripped a neck screw and decided to do these. Amazing improvement in sustain and harmonic content and over guitar volume. Notes and cords are much more solid and articulate and each note is much better defined. It really made a huge difference in sound.
My extra little tip is to secure these inserts with a bit of glue. We used them in a company I worked for and from time to time they sometimes will get loose when unscrewing. Needless to say that it causes a major problem. Bit of glue or epoxy prevents that from happening.
Thanks for this video... it was my consultation before I attempted this. When I did perform this on my tele, I blocked the neck into a wooden fixture and after I drilled the holes, I chucked 3 inch Allen bit in the drill chuck and used that to install the insert. in my mind, this keeps the insert perpendicular to the drill angle.
I've had a couple of these kits maybe 3 now. In the last two I've had to use one different insert in each neck (other three as supplied). I prefer the inserts where the thread is continous as I find they have greater strength when inserted. Yes it takes more force to cut the thread but it's much easier to get it straight. If you have a roasted maple neck you probably won't have an issue but I've had to swap some on standard maple. Glue is the other option as mentioned.
I like the size and style of these inserts better than what I am using these are bigger with more bite. Will try them. One's I use and have seen sold require a machine tap that sometimes chews up the wood if too soft. I agree with the comment about needing some help from glue. Actually some epoxy putty on the threads is better.
Any tips on making sure the neck holes you drill are straight, given that the neck is radiused and will tend to rock back and forth on the bed of your drill press?
Hello Chris, and thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge. It has helped greatly. I know this is an old post but I have a few questions about your procedure. Is there a reason you dont run those holes during the machining process on your CNC? The depth of the recess on the back holes appears pretty deep compared to the front holes. Is that on purpose? And finally do you put finish on the raw wood exposed from the hole recess’s? Thank you again. I really enjoy your mix of detailed and practical info.
When I made this video, most viewers didn't have access to CNC. The difference in depth is because the area beneath the pocket is scalloped for access. I put a finish on all wood surfaces to prevent or minimize moisture absorption.
I’m building/assembling a guitar using a neck and body from two different guitars. I need to fill and redrill the neck holes. Do you think using these would be better than just standard screws since most likely some of the new holes will be at least partly where the old ones were?
Hey Chris! Awesome video, quick question - where do you source these screws? I find it hard to locate flat head Stainless steel screws in any color other than the natural steel...
you have a lot of faith in your neck center line by just pushing it into the pocket and marking the holes. and, unless you have a flat fingerboard radius, you should secure the neck on the drill press table so it doesn’t rock on the radius..and the holes wouldn’t be perpendicular..if you had a 7 1/4”-10” radius, that neck could rock quite a bit and make this holes substantially off 90 degrees
Good question. It starts with drawing an accurate, full-size plan before I make the neck and rout the neck pocket. Before I test fit the neck, I'll drill the holes for the neck bolts into the pocket. After I test fit the neck, I stretch a thread from the center of the fretboard where the nut will be installed back to the end of the body's centerline. If I made the pocket correctly, the string will be exactly centered on the heel of the fretboard. If it's off, I can usually torque the headstock to one side or the other to line up the centerlines. Once I'm happy with the alignment, I'll push a sharp awl up through the neck mounting holes in the body and into the bottom of the neck's heel to mark the position of the holes for the threaded inserts. I hope that make sense!
Could this work for a neck that already has holes? But a body that doesn’t yet? I really like this idea and wanna incorporate it into my project but I have a 89 charvel neck with obvious holes and a warmoth body I opted to not have neck holes drilled so I can make sure they line up. Could I still technically do this?
As long as you can size the neck holes to fit the inserts, technically, it should work. The trick will be to transfer the position of the neck holes onto the body.
Highline Guitars yea that’s gonna be the hard part. Think I can set the neck in it draw a line in pencil on the neck take it off and use a piece of paper lined up with the line on the neck then poke holes where the holes are and transfer the template to the body and mark them out that way and pray it’s right. Or maybe use measurements
If you're building the same guitar over and over and need to make thousands of them, a metal neck plate is the way to go because it simplifies mass production. Otherwise, washers and threaded inserts work better especially if you're always making different guitars with different bolt patterns.
That makes sense. I've seen a cheaper-still option on very inexpensive guitars: woodscrews with washers only, no neck plate, but also no threaded inserts in the neck. I'm not sure I would trust that. Your neck fits are so tight they could almost do without fixings.
Nice, but the neck should have been clamped down when drilling the holes, and if those inserts are not driven in perfectly straight, the screws can cross-thread.
Hi there thanks for the share. Have you done any AB comparisons? Say recording the acoustic sound of the guitar before and after plus electric cleans? If not do you have an impression of any tonal difference before and after? Some might argue that more wood is good and a Fender screw screws in tight and holds the neck tight anyway? What are you perceived benefits please? I guess you can torx it harder? What else? It's possible that the metal to metal in the insert or looser than squishing a screw into wood no? You didn't show the end stage of the installation. You must have used a wide drill bit to oversize for the washers! There is a LOT of wood missing mate! I would argue that leaving he wood there and slight countersinking the washers tightly would be the go even them protruding by 1mm or so would be cool. Max strength and tone?
I stripped a neck screw and decided to do these. Amazing improvement in sustain and harmonic content and over guitar volume. Notes and cords are much more solid and articulate and each note is much better defined. It really made a huge difference in sound.
My extra little tip is to secure these inserts with a bit of glue. We used them in a company I worked for and from time to time they sometimes will get loose when unscrewing. Needless to say that it causes a major problem. Bit of glue or epoxy prevents that from happening.
Did you work in a Guitar shop and use glue on the inserts?
Scott Norman. No wasn't guitar related. These inserts are just well known to get loose.
With a current production of about 2000 units you gain experience.
But hey, what do I know right?
Piet Muijs No doubt, I would absolutely use glue with the inserts.
@@p_mouse8676 Can't agree more.
Thanks for this video... it was my consultation before I attempted this. When I did perform this on my tele, I blocked the neck into a wooden fixture and after I drilled the holes, I chucked 3 inch Allen bit in the drill chuck and used that to install the insert. in my mind, this keeps the insert perpendicular to the drill angle.
Thank you so much for this video. Solves my travel guitar problem
I've had a couple of these kits maybe 3 now. In the last two I've had to use one different insert in each neck (other three as supplied). I prefer the inserts where the thread is continous as I find they have greater strength when inserted. Yes it takes more force to cut the thread but it's much easier to get it straight. If you have a roasted maple neck you probably won't have an issue but I've had to swap some on standard maple. Glue is the other option as mentioned.
I like the size and style of these inserts better than what I am using these are bigger with more bite. Will try them. One's I use and have seen sold require a machine tap that sometimes chews up the wood if too soft. I agree with the comment about needing some help from glue. Actually some epoxy putty on the threads is better.
Thanks for your very informative video.
Any tips on making sure the neck holes you drill are straight, given that the neck is radiused and will tend to rock back and forth on the bed of your drill press?
Gently clamp the neck into a drill press vice.
@@ReallyBadJuJu yes
Hello Chris, and thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge. It has helped greatly. I know this is an old post but I have a few questions about your procedure. Is there a reason you dont run those holes during the machining process on your CNC? The depth of the recess on the back holes appears pretty deep compared to the front holes. Is that on purpose? And finally do you put finish on the raw wood exposed from the hole recess’s? Thank you again. I really enjoy your mix of detailed and practical info.
When I made this video, most viewers didn't have access to CNC. The difference in depth is because the area beneath the pocket is scalloped for access. I put a finish on all wood surfaces to prevent or minimize moisture absorption.
I’m building/assembling a guitar using a neck and body from two different guitars. I need to fill and redrill the neck holes. Do you think using these would be better than just standard screws since most likely some of the new holes will be at least partly where the old ones were?
This method should work fine.
thanks for the tip! Where do you get this hardware? McMaster-Carr?
Hey Chris! Awesome video, quick question - where do you source these screws? I find it hard to locate flat head Stainless steel screws in any color other than the natural steel...
Home Depot. I only use natural steel.
@@HighlineGuitars gotcha! Thanks!
you have a lot of faith in your neck center line by just pushing it into the pocket and marking the holes.
and, unless you have a flat fingerboard radius, you should secure the neck on the drill press table so it doesn’t rock on the radius..and the holes wouldn’t be perpendicular..if you had a 7 1/4”-10” radius, that neck could rock quite a bit and make this holes substantially off 90 degrees
Faith from 20+ years of experience and hundreds and hundreds of guitars.
The billet washers link doesn’t work anymore. Any update would be appreciated. Thanks for all your help!
I use the M5 billet washers from here: www.ebay.com/itm/Metric-Machined-Turned-Solid-Stainless-Steel-Countersink-Finish-Washers-/331928974782
You rock! Thanks for all the help. Keep the videos coming! I appreciate it all
Chris thanks for the tip, one question ,the billet washer, what diameter is it? I m thinking id want to set them flush with a tight fit.
10mm or about 5/8"
how about some antiseize on the threads? Or is that not ok?
It's probably okay, but what's the point?
@@HighlineGuitars servicing later might have less issues..probably not important
How do you make sure that indeed the neck body fit is true to the center line?
Good question. It starts with drawing an accurate, full-size plan before I make the neck and rout the neck pocket. Before I test fit the neck, I'll drill the holes for the neck bolts into the pocket. After I test fit the neck, I stretch a thread from the center of the fretboard where the nut will be installed back to the end of the body's centerline. If I made the pocket correctly, the string will be exactly centered on the heel of the fretboard. If it's off, I can usually torque the headstock to one side or the other to line up the centerlines. Once I'm happy with the alignment, I'll push a sharp awl up through the neck mounting holes in the body and into the bottom of the neck's heel to mark the position of the holes for the threaded inserts. I hope that make sense!
Could this work for a neck that already has holes? But a body that doesn’t yet? I really like this idea and wanna incorporate it into my project but I have a 89 charvel neck with obvious holes and a warmoth body I opted to not have neck holes drilled so I can make sure they line up. Could I still technically do this?
As long as you can size the neck holes to fit the inserts, technically, it should work. The trick will be to transfer the position of the neck holes onto the body.
Highline Guitars yea that’s gonna be the hard part. Think I can set the neck in it draw a line in pencil on the neck take it off and use a piece of paper lined up with the line on the neck then poke holes where the holes are and transfer the template to the body and mark them out that way and pray it’s right. Or maybe use measurements
Am I right in thinking that you find this type of fixing more secure than simple woodscrews?
Yes, especially if you frequently remove the neck.
Is there any advantage to using a traditional metal neck plate, or do the inserts and washers do away with need for that?
If you're building the same guitar over and over and need to make thousands of them, a metal neck plate is the way to go because it simplifies mass production. Otherwise, washers and threaded inserts work better especially if you're always making different guitars with different bolt patterns.
That makes sense. I've seen a cheaper-still option on very inexpensive guitars: woodscrews with washers only, no neck plate, but also no threaded inserts in the neck. I'm not sure I would trust that.
Your neck fits are so tight they could almost do without fixings.
Nice, but the neck should have been clamped down when drilling the holes, and if those inserts are not driven in perfectly straight, the screws can cross-thread.
Where do you buy these? Is there a brand?
Ace Hardware.
Why aren't you doing that on a cnc?
Because the video is for the people. Most of the people don't have CNC machines.
@@HighlineGuitars But you can do it also on a CNC?
Don't use wood inserts, use inserts for steel, stainless steel, drill and tap the holes, add a little glue
what is you're opening lmao
Hi there thanks for the share. Have you done any AB comparisons? Say recording the acoustic sound of the guitar before and after plus electric cleans? If not do you have an impression of any tonal difference before and after? Some might argue that more wood is good and a Fender screw screws in tight and holds the neck tight anyway? What are you perceived benefits please? I guess you can torx it harder? What else? It's possible that the metal to metal in the insert or looser than squishing a screw into wood no? You didn't show the end stage of the installation. You must have used a wide drill bit to oversize for the washers! There is a LOT of wood missing mate! I would argue that leaving he wood there and slight countersinking the washers tightly would be the go even them protruding by 1mm or so would be cool. Max strength and tone?
I have made numerous identical guitars with and without threaded inserts. There is zero difference in tone between the two methods.