ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html this is 2023 newest smart distribution board DIY video tour, have diagram download link in video description.😀
i would suggest for the next project, use a busbar instead of daisychaining the breakers... it's cleaner and safer. the only negative point in busbar is that you have to replace the busbar is you want to expand the circuit... havn't seen expandable busbars so far
Good idea for a project but you shouldn't really connect stuff like this. Daisy chaining the contactors like that will overheat if you draw a big current, use a busbar instead and split the circuit into different sections. So you use maybe 4 busbars with 4 wires from the main fuse to split up the load in the wires. The fuse should be before the contactor to protect it as well because those can't handle 63A like the main breaker is rated for. This is no hate its just some constructive criticism from someone who is a Automation engineer. edit: spelling error, English isn't my main language
Ron Ross, I am a Principal Design Engineer for a Large Utility in the US. I just turned 67 and I will be retiring. I would like to add comments for improving your panel. I realize that this may be copied by others. I am not sure of the color code used but the hot wire here is black. White is used for the neutral and green for the ground wire. As I understood your control layout, the relays powered the circuit breakers which then fed the output to the circuits. The main breaker in the panel limits the internal and downstream circuits by its rating. I did not count the breakers, but I believe you had 32 at 25 Amp each. The main is maybe 63 amp? two pole. We do not break the neutral of white wire with a breaker in the US. If you are going to use a main breaker, it should be larger, maybe 100 amp. Also, you need to group the power runs in groups of 5 from the main. You are feeding them all with the same wire. The din rail under the relays and the breakers should have a screw thought the mounting plate about every six inches.
Thank you very much for your valuable advice, this video made by two years ago, this month we have made a new solution video tour, i think you will love it. ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html how about this solution?
Yes, but if you don't know what you're doing you can make some mistakes and that can put you and your house in danger when you try to connect with the power
As a control and distribution cabinet, you should distinguish and specify the wire color, usually red wire for phase, black wire for neutral, green/yellow wire for ground, signal control wire is a small wire and also distinguished by wire color and the ends of the wire are the heat-generating contacts, so the presser should be used.
ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html this is 2023 newest smart distribution board DIY video tour, have diagram download link in video description.😀
Death trap in a box! No separation of mains and low voltage. No earthing or bonding. Main switch feeding contractors without circuit protection. Undersized cables. RF devices installed inside a metal box - thanks for demonstration of what not to do.
I really appreciate your efforts in educating the world with innovations. Home automation has always been my dream career. Will you be my direct mentor?
Busbar (Splited (Not one large!!!!)) Clean the paint under the earth strap!!! I would put an earth strap between the back panel and box too. Labels. Larger neutral distribution bar. And earth distribution bar too. Wiring diagram on the inside of the door. I would put a switch on the front door. That does not allow the door to be opened while the switch is ON. The wire color might OK in your Country. EU IEC 60445:2021 Might you want cabinet lighting as well?
Selamat pagi bos db gn dlm nya cantik gn kemas cuma ada lg kurang dlm db book tu tidak ada kipas pendingin haba panas untuk pcb bot control nya kalau tidak ada kipas pendingin udara apabila pcb bot tu nanti panas cepat rosak sebap panas alat elektronik pcb nya pasti tidak akan tahan lama gn cepat rosak jadi mesti kena letak kipas bos 😊🇲🇾
Strange way of mounting the din rail. Why multiple pieces in the same row. Self tapers are also much easier. Good videos non the less, always interesting how people make cabinets in other countries.
Do you love to tidy stuff in casings? Do you like building robust mechanisms? Do you also like tech? Say hello to embedded systems engineering or embedded systems!
@@richardswairg3695 Lets say... between the two.. a 'how to' DIY no idea 20kg batch of black powder fireworks, stored in every room of the house, or this 'how to' DIY no idea mains voltage (240V AC 40A @ 10kA pfc) switchbox fireworks, permanently connected to a home or commercial building. Now, what do you think would be more fun and safer? ...and it follows, Do you think demonstrating either of these highly dangerous 'DIY fun' things is suitable for RUclips promotion?
why would someone want a PLC for their house? whats so tedious that you would want to automate? does it wash the dishes, do your laundry, mow the yard, and cook for you? No? what the point then? automating lights isn't worth the cost.
32 channel means it can control only 32 different devices (On/Off) - correct? What if I have dimmable CCT lights? Also, how to connect this to Home Assistant that I already have?
yes, relay controller use for control 32CH ON/OFF, if you need dimmer, you can add KC868-D16 dimmer controller into DB, so that they can work in one software.
When you come in with AC L1 in one relais and then go 32 screw terminals to the last one, you have high connection resistance. Did you measure voltage drop under load? Use 4 or more feed ins and connect them in star topology.
Poor advice from a non-electrician. Can't you see the gross design errors here? The only safe and professional way to do this is use a correctly rated (63A) manufactured and insulated copper busbar to connect the supply to all CB's... that then individually feed the contactors. A single 63A rated cable connects Main Switch to Busbar. Enclosed in a box that would be 16mm2 cable minimum. what's he using? Looks like 4mm2 solid core wire at the most... good for 32A. Note: No more than 2 conductors per terminal is what those CB and Contactor terminals are designed for anyway. Where are the Neutral and Earth bars with a minimum of 33 terminals for outgoing circuits? The enclosure is too small to accommodate sufficient segregation and cable management anyway.
@@KinCony doesn't metter what kind of load (lamps or anything else). Remember that CB must protect device AND CABLE - this is a principal rule. In case of some short circuits your contactors and wires are not protected, 63 A will burn out them.
Yeah, pretty dumb in many ways. I say not good to see someone with no idea on how to design and fabricate a non-compliant SCA with the intent of instructing others! Count the number of morons that think it's all "good work" and 'fans' who have even less idea. I just pity the Emergency responders that have to attend a fire or electrocution as a result of dumb ideas like this.
I think it’s neat, BUT is’n all the current for every single braker going through the first screw terminal?! 32x10A……320A on a single screw terminal. Worst case. I smell MAGIC SMOKE…
@@HobbyFinn2 Correct regarding the string connection of supply Active to each sub circuit. EVERY dodgy looping in that panel is problematic. On that type CB the clamp is designed for little more than 32A, because that's the max rating of those CB's, when properly installed. That involves using rigid pressed copper busbar that maybe rated to carry 160-225A total loading which also directly connects to the 2 pole 63A rated Main Switch (it's not a CB... just an isolation switch). Your calculation of 32 x 10A = 320A isn't correct because this panel would be fed from an overcurent protection device (Fuse or CB) at the Main Distribution panel in the building.... but maybe not if some dodgy idiot connected it up. That fuse or CB's rating should be no more than the rating of cable to this panel AND the rating of the Main Switch. Who knows what he has used. Further, he has used small gauge low current rating solid wire for the looping and connection to Main Switch that is only good for 32A... some looping there using lower gauge wire is only rated for 10A. BUT LOOK closer.. that unswitched active loop feeds to every CONTACTOR (that has a even lower designed current rating) that then feeds individual CB's. This "neat" fire hazard is wired back to front! In any case, I first look at the Earthing/Grounding circuit, which is most important to protect life... and that fails Standards. Further major design flaws present. The Control power supply (for PLC and contactor switching operation) that is fed from Main Switch should be protected by it's own 2-10A fuse or CB. Without that the control wiring at mains potential under fault condition (which could happen inside the PLC or any relay switched contactor or low voltage power supply in that enclosure) is 'protected' at a current rating of the fuse or CB in Main Switchboard. Could be 63A... only needs to be 16A to 32A max if that thing is only controlling lighting circuits... more if general power circuits for appliances... and a lot more if controlling high demand loads like fixed heating too. At least he made it easy to isolate any wireless control to the panel. All you need to do is close the metal door of the Faraday Cage enclosure! LOL
iot is good , but no proper channel duct , no lugs , no proper main wire distribution , you may need to learn more about electrical . otherwise i see some burning smell from your this panel .. ;)
Why not to put breakers on the grid side, and have loads grouped, e.g. 4 light circuits per one MCB? It's a rare case when you can have better safety and save money at the same time. You always should have protection on the grid side, so it protects against the shorts in relays and other steering devices, not only shorts on the side of final loop (cabling and powered devices). With average LED power consumption of about 6.5 W you can have 350 bulbs on one B10 MCB so grouping circuits with a few MCBs makes perfect sense. Btw., B16 should not be used for standard lighting circuits (if you don't have 3000 W halogen lights).
ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html this is 2023 newest smart distribution board DIY video tour, have diagram download link in video description.😀
i would suggest for the next project, use a busbar instead of daisychaining the breakers... it's cleaner and safer. the only negative point in busbar is that you have to replace the busbar is you want to expand the circuit... havn't seen expandable busbars so far
yes, thanks for your suggestion, next project will improve it.
yeapp... busbar, and normal wire to the connection off the drivers, small secction. great job never the less :)
one more thing, 25A, and 2.5 wiring you are on the edge off it. better 16A to that wire section
@@pedroveloso9707 thank you
@@pedroveloso9707 ok, thanks.
Good idea for a project but you shouldn't really connect stuff like this. Daisy chaining the contactors like that will overheat if you draw a big current, use a busbar instead and split the circuit into different sections. So you use maybe 4 busbars with 4 wires from the main fuse to split up the load in the wires. The fuse should be before the contactor to protect it as well because those can't handle 63A like the main breaker is rated for. This is no hate its just some constructive criticism from someone who is a Automation engineer.
edit: spelling error, English isn't my main language
thank you very much for your suggestion, we will make new video tour based on new controller and solution, it will be improved.
@@KinCony Nice! Looking forward to it :)
@@Willeexd1337 thanks.
Ron Ross, I am a Principal Design Engineer for a Large Utility in the US. I just turned 67 and I will be retiring. I would like to add comments for improving your panel. I realize that this may be copied by others. I am not sure of the color code used but the hot wire here is black. White is used for the neutral and green for the ground wire. As I understood your control layout, the relays powered the circuit breakers which then fed the output to the circuits. The main breaker in the panel limits the internal and downstream circuits by its rating. I did not count the breakers, but I believe you had 32 at 25 Amp each. The main is maybe 63 amp? two pole. We do not break the neutral of white wire with a breaker in the US. If you are going to use a main breaker, it should be larger, maybe 100 amp. Also, you need to group the power runs in groups of 5 from the main. You are feeding them all with the same wire. The din rail under the relays and the breakers should have a screw thought the mounting plate about every six inches.
Thank you very much for your valuable advice, this video made by two years ago, this month we have made a new solution video tour, i think you will love it. ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html how about this solution?
Anyone viewing this please do not use this as a guide. Get in contact with a qualified electrician and find out how it should be done.
Wtf why? This is a super clean build.
@@frikkied2638cuz sometimes viewer copying the video and doing it wrong
Yes, but if you don't know what you're doing you can make some mistakes and that can put you and your house in danger when you try to connect with the power
As a control and distribution cabinet, you should distinguish and specify the wire color, usually red wire for phase, black wire for neutral, green/yellow wire for ground, signal control wire is a small wire and also distinguished by wire color and the ends of the wire are the heat-generating contacts, so the presser should be used.
thanks for your suggestion, we are designing another new solution.
good think!
Distribution cabinet use the cable only fire alarm cable.
@@dpsmoin2151 how about this style? ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html
@@KinCony waiting new design so
shouldn't the wire be thicker when the fuse is only 63 amps ?
yes, this demo, not use full of load current.
Sair very very nice video and easy proses to learning
thanks
can that 4mm singles take the sixty to 100 amps you will be drawing through it ?
ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html this is 2023 newest smart distribution board DIY video tour, have diagram download link in video description.😀
Good sir 🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳
Thanks a lot KinCony. Amazing job. I Will be waiting the second video of this Electrical WiFi Control Panel.
if want to use wifi, just replace the controller with KC868-H32B is ok
Death trap in a box! No separation of mains and low voltage. No earthing or bonding. Main switch feeding contractors without circuit protection. Undersized cables. RF devices installed inside a metal box - thanks for demonstration of what not to do.
next version will all improve
Very good
thanks
I really appreciate your efforts in educating the world with innovations.
Home automation has always been my dream career.
Will you be my direct mentor?
thanks, any question need help just leave message. we will help everyone.
SRSLY?
nice work, love it. thank u
you are welcome
No commentary - annyoing music in background instead. It tells everything about your channel quality.
next video will have voice explain.
Busbar (Splited (Not one large!!!!)) Clean the paint under the earth strap!!! I would put an earth strap between the back panel and box too. Labels. Larger neutral distribution bar. And earth distribution bar too. Wiring diagram on the inside of the door. I would put a switch on the front door. That does not allow the door to be opened while the switch is ON.
The wire color might OK in your Country. EU IEC 60445:2021
Might you want cabinet lighting as well?
thanks for your suggestion. this is our new solution: ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html this is better.
This is beautiful ❤
This nice
Selamat pagi bos db gn dlm nya cantik gn kemas cuma ada lg kurang dlm db book tu tidak ada kipas pendingin haba panas untuk pcb bot control nya kalau tidak ada kipas pendingin udara apabila pcb bot tu nanti panas cepat rosak sebap panas alat elektronik pcb nya pasti tidak akan tahan lama gn cepat rosak jadi mesti kena letak kipas bos 😊🇲🇾
thanks for suggestion.
Beautiful work !
thanks.
butyfull video
Strange way of mounting the din rail. Why multiple pieces in the same row. Self tapers are also much easier. Good videos non the less, always interesting how people make cabinets in other countries.
thanks for suggestion.
this video is in accordance with my hobby.can the manual switch button be replaced with a touch switch?thank you.
already can extend connect with wall switch. the black button inside of AC contactor only for emergency use.
@@KinCony No, it's for isolation and bypassing control signals when testing.
@@BTW... if use bypassing control, will use COM,NC,NO will be very large space.
Do you love to tidy stuff in casings?
Do you like building robust mechanisms?
Do you also like tech?
Say hello to embedded systems engineering or embedded systems!
Hi nice
Awesome work
Thank a lot of
Big fan of your work !!! Keep up the
Good work
thanks, we will make more interesting applications
Seriously?
@@BTW... give him a break bro he said he made this project for fun 😅
@@richardswairg3695 Lets say... between the two.. a 'how to' DIY no idea 20kg batch of black powder fireworks, stored in every room of the house, or this 'how to' DIY no idea mains voltage (240V AC 40A @ 10kA pfc) switchbox fireworks, permanently connected to a home or commercial building.
Now, what do you think would be more fun and safer?
...and it follows, Do you think demonstrating either of these highly dangerous 'DIY fun' things is suitable for RUclips promotion?
i like the work,can this be used in offices
sure, no problem
7:11 why you did multi looping?
Load diversion for safer operation
Multi looping is prohibited in good designs
@@AalimOnlineOfficial thanks for suggestion.
I really like this work. Have you manufactured smart dimmers, like triac dimming or for LED light?
i am dimmer, you can see this video: ruclips.net/video/cKgbX8nO0jQ/видео.html
@@KinCony Thank you! Do you have a triac dimmer as well (for incandescent or other lights)?
yes, we have, KC868-D8 + SSR is ok, i will make video later.
why would someone want a PLC for their house? whats so tedious that you would want to automate?
does it wash the dishes, do your laundry, mow the yard, and cook for you?
No? what the point then?
automating lights isn't worth the cost.
5:05 if you put those remote units in an all metal enclosure, won't that make for poor reception due to them being inside a Faraday cage?
mainly use by ethernet, not use by wifi.
Good
thanks
Why do you use C breakers and not B?
mainly use for light. here is our new solution: ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html this is improvement.
Мне кажется мягким проводом монтаж был бы намного проще, быстрее и надежнее. Идея хорошая, исполнение на 3.
thanks for suggestion, this is the newest solution: ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html
Hope not putting cooling fan wont damage the panel?
it can work without fan
I would like to follow this training
thanks
Why you didn’t choose for a wireless solution, Zigbee based or so? Not necessary to wire your whole home to this central switch box…
because wired solution is best stable. we will use a new way for switch panel connection, reduce wires number.
Bad to use more than 40 red short wires instead of using copper bar with plastic cover
thanks for suggestion.
Great job
thanks
32 channel means it can control only 32 different devices (On/Off) - correct? What if I have dimmable CCT lights? Also, how to connect this to Home Assistant that I already have?
yes, relay controller use for control 32CH ON/OFF, if you need dimmer, you can add KC868-D16 dimmer controller into DB, so that they can work in one software.
Those MCBs are not intended for routine switching things on and off. Typical contact life is 100,000 operations.
yes, mainly control ON/OFF by extend wall switch panel, not by MCBs.
Hello sir! How much is the cost hardware not including the software?
you can see our online store: kincony.aliexpress.com/ all our software is free.
nice job sir
No... dangerous and non complaint to any mains wiring Standard.
why does it not have Earth leakage that panel? how does it protect against earth fault?
if you want ,you can add it, this is a sample demo.
and when something goes bad how do you replace it with all the wires on it
there is manual control button.
I
love this video
thanks
very cool!
❤❤❤
Nice
Why didn't you use an electrical bus instead of cable jumpers?
now updated for use bus
What type of microcontroller are you using?
STM32
Please what of type of circuit breaker did you use? I see another attachment to it?
middle row is contact, the breaker just traditional MCB
When you come in with AC L1 in one relais and then go 32 screw terminals to the last one, you have high connection resistance. Did you measure voltage drop under load?
Use 4 or more feed ins and connect them in star topology.
yes, you are right, now using 8 pins together with power in.
Poor advice from a non-electrician. Can't you see the gross design errors here?
The only safe and professional way to do this is use a correctly rated (63A) manufactured and insulated copper busbar to connect the supply to all CB's... that then individually feed the contactors.
A single 63A rated cable connects Main Switch to Busbar. Enclosed in a box that would be 16mm2 cable minimum. what's he using? Looks like 4mm2 solid core wire at the most... good for 32A.
Note: No more than 2 conductors per terminal is what those CB and Contactor terminals are designed for anyway.
Where are the Neutral and Earth bars with a minimum of 33 terminals for outgoing circuits?
The enclosure is too small to accommodate sufficient segregation and cable management anyway.
@@BTW... this is a demo, most use for lamp, not use full current. if large current load need thicker wire.
@@KinCony doesn't metter what kind of load (lamps or anything else). Remember that CB must protect device AND CABLE - this is a principal rule. In case of some short circuits your contactors and wires are not protected, 63 A will burn out them.
thanks for your suggestion, next project will update.
how you did it??
??
With this set up it is not possible to control much load, no?
just add controller will control much load.
2017 ke bad lenevo thinkserver kyu nahi aaye purane hi kyu bik
Not much smart in 32 on off switches. Good to see how not to build a breaker panel though.
Yea those massive jumper chains look awful
now we are using new jumper, will take new video later.
Yeah, pretty dumb in many ways. I say not good to see someone with no idea on how to design and fabricate a non-compliant SCA with the intent of instructing others!
Count the number of morons that think it's all "good work" and 'fans' who have even less idea.
I just pity the Emergency responders that have to attend a fire or electrocution as a result of dumb ideas like this.
I think it’s neat, BUT is’n all the current for every single braker going through the first screw terminal?! 32x10A……320A on a single screw terminal. Worst case. I smell MAGIC SMOKE…
@@HobbyFinn2 Correct regarding the string connection of supply Active to each sub circuit. EVERY dodgy looping in that panel is problematic. On that type CB the clamp is designed for little more than 32A, because that's the max rating of those CB's, when properly installed. That involves using rigid pressed copper busbar that maybe rated to carry 160-225A total loading which also directly connects to the 2 pole 63A rated Main Switch (it's not a CB... just an isolation switch). Your calculation of 32 x 10A = 320A isn't correct because this panel would be fed from an overcurent protection device (Fuse or CB) at the Main Distribution panel in the building.... but maybe not if some dodgy idiot connected it up. That fuse or CB's rating should be no more than the rating of cable to this panel AND the rating of the Main Switch. Who knows what he has used. Further, he has used small gauge low current rating solid wire for the looping and connection to Main Switch that is only good for 32A... some looping there using lower gauge wire is only rated for 10A.
BUT LOOK closer.. that unswitched active loop feeds to every CONTACTOR (that has a even lower designed current rating) that then feeds individual CB's. This "neat" fire hazard is wired back to front!
In any case, I first look at the Earthing/Grounding circuit, which is most important to protect life... and that fails Standards.
Further major design flaws present.
The Control power supply (for PLC and contactor switching operation) that is fed from Main Switch should be protected by it's own 2-10A fuse or CB. Without that the control wiring at mains potential under fault condition (which could happen inside the PLC or any relay switched contactor or low voltage power supply in that enclosure) is 'protected' at a current rating of the fuse or CB in Main Switchboard. Could be 63A... only needs to be 16A to 32A max if that thing is only controlling lighting circuits... more if general power circuits for appliances... and a lot more if controlling high demand loads like fixed heating too.
At least he made it easy to isolate any wireless control to the panel. All you need to do is close the metal door of the Faraday Cage enclosure! LOL
Thanks a lot 👍
Parabéns. 1000 ok
You use back ground music if u stop music only you explain all connection so more help full for alls
thanks for your suggestion, here is a video we have maken: ruclips.net/video/B3RgOH_MGeQ/видео.html that we have explained details.
I would enjoy a follow up video where you explained it, watching the construction doesn't tell me a lot
thanks
damit sie schön dein strom abstellen könne wenn du nicht bezahlst xDD
Our company would like to specialize in your products and methods for IOT. How can we get training?
we have online training video play list: www.kincony.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=18
Woo!
Hello Conny...requesting for circuit diagrams and software documents
Link in video description
Hi can you wirig of the lighting and auto gate please
Share wiring diagram showing the position of lighting ,dry switch and cable for auto gate.
www.kincony.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=33
please where can i get the materials to buy and diagram
you can from our online store: kincony.aliexpress.com/store/1100463977
all diagram download at here: www.kincony.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=33
8:55 это место 100% первым выгорит. Жаль у вас нет тепловизора)
ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html this is 2023 newest smart distribution board DIY video tour, have diagram download link in video description.
@@KinCony ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html да, тут уже все отлично.
thanks@@Andrey0I
Sir what is the range of controlling to this panel?
anywhere, just have internet.
i really wanna do this as my final year project what are the names of the components u used in doing this please help me out kk
thanks, many use our KC868-H32 series smart controller, this month have new hardware version, support alexa , google and apple homekit directly
Good....we need your circuit diagram and code plxxx share it with us
all our diagram you can see here: www.kincony.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=33
Nice Work done👍👍. I need the circuit diagram and it's specificications like what kind of MCB, chips and elcbs used. Can you please give me its detail.
www.kincony.com/download/SMART-MAIN-DB-AUTOMATION.pdf
No it isn't. Don't do it.
Cool but if i turn off the power my i ternet wont work so i cant turn it back on 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
use two different channel.
Can you upload video on Home Automation using Smart Station. Please
Smart Station?
iot is good , but no proper channel duct , no lugs , no proper main wire distribution , you may need to learn more about electrical . otherwise i see some burning smell from your this panel .. ;)
thanks for suggestion, the new verison many have updated.
Witch software are you use in the mobile phone please ?
Thanks for the video
now our newest controller can work with tuya app
@@KinCony I don't like tuya... I like all my questions in my local area.
Is this tuya on you phone please ?
Thanks again
@@MrDenisJoshua ok, understand now, it can use kincony KBOX application in local network without internet.
@@KinCony ok Thanks a lot for the answer.
@@MrDenisJoshua you are welcome
This is Great. Thank you!
you are welcome
Hello,
That's beautiful! I want to give it a try. Could you share circuit and software with me?
next week, we will have new version circuit
@@KinCony thanks a lot; looking forward to that
@@Engineer1GH ok, because we have released new smart controller, many new functions.
Co takhle koupit originál propojovací lištu , když už to chcete dělat pořádně ?
ok
wow nice project. please can it be controlled with amazon alexa?
yes, it can
Okay. Please is possible for you to do a video on that?
@@crisptvevents681 ok, later we will make it.
@@KinCony alright.. thank you
Lose the audio, speed the video up and get the thought across.
May i ask the diagram and software used for this awesome project please
you can download from kincony webpage: www.kincony.com/document
Where we can buy supplies in the Philippines? Thanks
you can order from our online store: kincony.aliexpress.com
Забравих Ли да спомена, че на моите звезди мимума стана "страшен"!
what is the use of terminal switch board?
that for manuall control with wall switch and use RF wireless remoter control 32 relays ON/OFF
Does each light need a separate circuit breaker
no, just traditional breaker.
Why not to put breakers on the grid side, and have loads grouped, e.g. 4 light circuits per one MCB?
It's a rare case when you can have better safety and save money at the same time. You always should have protection on the grid side, so it protects against the shorts in relays and other steering devices, not only shorts on the side of final loop (cabling and powered devices).
With average LED power consumption of about 6.5 W you can have 350 bulbs on one B10 MCB so grouping circuits with a few MCBs makes perfect sense. Btw., B16 should not be used for standard lighting circuits (if you don't have 3000 W halogen lights).
Какой провод первым выгорит?
this demo for lamp.
Hi..
Do you have a distributor in sri lanka?
no, need send product by express
Hi sir , you can do smart air breaker DB box.
yes, but we not change breaker structure.
Do you have any controller with the Zigbee protocol?
we have zigbee switch panel, suggest control relay by network, it's stable
not epileptic, but the camera jumping made it impossible to watch this
we will improve in furture:)
Can you please share the circuit diagram?
circuit diagram in the video description
Connecting red and blue cables together !?
what time showed?
@@KinCony 8:56
@@benoitpesesse9773 i see, that is "N" line. maybe the AC contactor teminal use blue is better.
Can I use normal wall switch instead of pulse with 12v switches?
no problem, any dry contact wall switch can be used, just momentary switch, not must kincony's wall switch.
@@KinCony so just toggle switches won't work right?(like on and off), just to confirm, if its a momentary switch with dry contact will work
@@sur0x yes, not use Latch switch, use self-reset type switch button
@@KinCony perfect!!
hello i hope you are fine
Can you send me complete code and circut diagram
ruclips.net/video/Ae4CDMBKRwA/видео.html this is 2023 newest smart distribution board DIY video tour, have diagram download link in video description
Zuda zoʻr
Muy bueno
thanks