Still have 2 New in the Box PIII slot 1 motherboards, one Intel, 1 Tyan. They have been on my shelves for years. Have 4 slot 1 Adapters, 1 sitting on my desk right now, got 2 PIII and 1 PII CPUS. I have a lot of old hardware used, NIB My basement looks like a PC shop. I seem to have an issue with PC parts. Toss the cases over the years but kept the other stuff. 10 Working IDE drives left. tons of RAM sticks, even have 8 bit sticks. 😁😁
i had the same motherboard when i was a kid and i just bought another off eBay for 25 bucks came with a Athlon 3200+ guy said it was sitting on a shelve and was told to get rid of it i got it and it works beautifully
During this time there were a LOT of fake Athlon XP chips. There are a few articles online about spotting differences. Looks like you got yourself a piece of history there, lol. Great Video!
lol so they were basically sticking the Athlon name on the Duron CPUs? As far as i know the Duron had a ceramic purple PCB whereas the actual Athlon and Semprons did have that green PCB like his
@@nushnume The Duron 1600 and 1800 both had Green PCBs. The "Pencil Trick" would have been used to run it at different clock frequencies, eliminating the need to increase the FSB. Usually dark black marks found around the L1 Bridges are indications. Also the Labels had minor differences in font and size.
Grabbed a used ABIT MB put in the CPU powered up and POP. That pop came from the socket. It toasted one of the transistors on the CPU. Removed the MB had an old Gigabyte, switched that, nothing. Grabbed another box which happened to be the ABIT box. WooHoo a new in the bag I never used SOYO MB with the 4 pin CPU plug, and I also have 2 more Athlon and 1 Sempron CPU left. Works, this weekend reformatting an 80GB IDE HD, going to use UBCD I burned to CD to get Linux Installed. The ABIT has a blackened spot on the socket, the Gigabyte may work gonna try that with the Sempron at some point.
Yep that is your problem. I have this same chipset running a Barton core Athlon xp. You need a psu that is designed for pentium 4, These newer psu's do not deliver the power required over the 5 volt rail. I had to go out and source a specific psu for mine. You want one that provides a min of 35A or better over that rail.
you can get thin wooden shims at the hardware store for hard drive rails. you can even get electrically conductive paint to ground them properly if you feel like going the extra mile. or if you are one of them rich kids you can 3D print a bunch of those suckers and sell the extra repro rails on ebay and etsy.
You should trash this bad generic PS, if i can give you another advice, for a good retro PSU with strong +5V rail, check for an old Fortron or a old Enermax PSU, they were pretty comon back in the day and they are very reliable.
Kinda like my builds. Have an idea of a build and end up buying few more components because of something, usually i didnt think of everything so...atleast spares :)
To me the biggest issue with Socket 462 / Socket A motherboards & CPUs is that they take most of their power from the 5V rail. That's why you can't much run those setups on modern PSUs, since they provide most of their power through the 12V rail, and the 5V max load is pretty much insignificant. Plugging those boards on a modern PSU results most of the time in blowing up the PSU, or at least the whole 5V rail.
This is true, you can modify them by cutting or connecting traces on the pcb but the chip was not modified and the silicon was physically damaged unfortunately.
@@idoesstuff1 chips on the die? Yeah that sucks 1 way to prevent that always put center pressure and slowly lower the retaining spring ofcourse athlons to atleast have supports unlike other chips But just a fyi chips on die arent always a sign of bad as these are all flip chip meaning the top is actually the bottom We used to do lapping on these dies back in the day
The Duron does not identify as a Duron because the die is chipped (the damage is minimal anyway). It just IS a Duron. The label is fake and the chip was reconfigured to run at 15x. The fakers couldn't always succesfully reconfigure the CPUID and cache size, in which case your motherboard and tools like CPU-Z tell you what it actually is. And you can tell that the label is fake because the font layout is wonky. Regarding your ColorCases power supply - oh dear. This is truly a no-name piece of utter garbage. Just like your Duron, this one has a fake label, and the specs do not make any sense. If you add up the individual ratings for the three main voltage rails as printed on the label, you get around 500W. The combined rating should therefore be lower than 500W, yet somehow it's 550W. This means that all the numbers on the label are basically made up. Judging from the cooling solution, this is probably a 300W-ish power supply, and it will either shut off (if you're lucky) or burn up in case you ever try to pull more power from it. For those who want to build something similar, please note that Socket A mainboards with a 4-pin P4 power connector do exist. They solve the problem as the CPU is powered from the 12V rail, so you can use any modern power supply. It's also possible to modify this Asus mainboard and feed 12V into the VRM section. You just have to replace the 6.3V input capacitors with 16V capacitors, disconnect them from the 5V rail by removing an inductor, and connect them to 12V using a bodge wire. Detailed instructions for this can be found in forums and on RUclips.
Still have 2 New in the Box PIII slot 1 motherboards, one Intel, 1 Tyan. They have been on my shelves for years. Have 4 slot 1 Adapters, 1 sitting on my desk right now, got 2 PIII and 1 PII CPUS. I have a lot of old hardware used, NIB My basement looks like a PC shop. I seem to have an issue with PC parts. Toss the cases over the years but kept the other stuff. 10 Working IDE drives left. tons of RAM sticks, even have 8 bit sticks. 😁😁
Newer cases have better cooling. Its a plus for a precious older setup.
i had the same motherboard when i was a kid and i just bought another off eBay for 25 bucks came with a Athlon 3200+ guy said it was sitting on a shelve and was told to get rid of it i got it and it works beautifully
During this time there were a LOT of fake Athlon XP chips. There are a few articles online about spotting differences. Looks like you got yourself a piece of history there, lol. Great Video!
lol so they were basically sticking the Athlon name on the Duron CPUs? As far as i know the Duron had a ceramic purple PCB whereas the actual Athlon and Semprons did have that green PCB like his
@@nushnume The Duron 1600 and 1800 both had Green PCBs. The "Pencil Trick" would have been used to run it at different clock frequencies, eliminating the need to increase the FSB. Usually dark black marks found around the L1 Bridges are indications. Also the Labels had minor differences in font and size.
Well, that was a rabbit hole! 😆 Good job in the end tho!
Grabbed a used ABIT MB put in the CPU powered up and POP. That pop came from the socket. It toasted one of the transistors on the CPU. Removed the MB had an old Gigabyte, switched that, nothing. Grabbed another box which happened to be the ABIT box. WooHoo a new in the bag I never used SOYO MB with the 4 pin CPU plug, and I also have 2 more Athlon and 1 Sempron CPU left. Works, this weekend reformatting an 80GB IDE HD, going to use UBCD I burned to CD to get Linux Installed. The ABIT has a blackened spot on the socket, the Gigabyte may work gonna try that with the Sempron at some point.
Yep that is your problem. I have this same chipset running a Barton core Athlon xp. You need a psu that is designed for pentium 4, These newer psu's do not deliver the power required over the 5 volt rail. I had to go out and source a specific psu for mine. You want one that provides a min of 35A or better over that rail.
Thanks for the video.
you can get thin wooden shims at the hardware store for hard drive rails. you can even get electrically conductive paint to ground them properly if you feel like going the extra mile. or if you are one of them rich kids you can 3D print a bunch of those suckers and sell the extra repro rails on ebay and etsy.
glad you sorted that out the way you want it good job
The cpu issues don't surprise me. With this socket you will often find damaged dies, modified or even counterfeit cpu's. It is a crap shoot.
You could get a black case and repaint it biege.
You should trash this bad generic PS, if i can give you another advice, for a good retro PSU with strong +5V rail, check for an old Fortron or a old Enermax PSU, they were pretty comon back in the day and they are very reliable.
Kinda like my builds. Have an idea of a build and end up buying few more components because of something, usually i didnt think of everything so...atleast spares :)
Hello ;) I've got some retro-hardware from that era that I could donate if you like :)
To me the biggest issue with Socket 462 / Socket A motherboards & CPUs is that they take most of their power from the 5V rail. That's why you can't much run those setups on modern PSUs, since they provide most of their power through the 12V rail, and the 5V max load is pretty much insignificant.
Plugging those boards on a modern PSU results most of the time in blowing up the PSU, or at least the whole 5V rail.
Should... the story of my life 😂
You know you can mod them enable cache etc
This is true, you can modify them by cutting or connecting traces on the pcb but the chip was not modified and the silicon was physically damaged unfortunately.
@@idoesstuff1 chips on the die? Yeah that sucks 1 way to prevent that always put center pressure and slowly lower the retaining spring ofcourse athlons to atleast have supports unlike other chips
But just a fyi chips on die arent always a sign of bad as these are all flip chip meaning the top is actually the bottom
We used to do lapping on these dies back in the day
The Duron does not identify as a Duron because the die is chipped (the damage is minimal anyway). It just IS a Duron. The label is fake and the chip was reconfigured to run at 15x. The fakers couldn't always succesfully reconfigure the CPUID and cache size, in which case your motherboard and tools like CPU-Z tell you what it actually is. And you can tell that the label is fake because the font layout is wonky.
Regarding your ColorCases power supply - oh dear. This is truly a no-name piece of utter garbage. Just like your Duron, this one has a fake label, and the specs do not make any sense. If you add up the individual ratings for the three main voltage rails as printed on the label, you get around 500W. The combined rating should therefore be lower than 500W, yet somehow it's 550W. This means that all the numbers on the label are basically made up. Judging from the cooling solution, this is probably a 300W-ish power supply, and it will either shut off (if you're lucky) or burn up in case you ever try to pull more power from it.
For those who want to build something similar, please note that Socket A mainboards with a 4-pin P4 power connector do exist. They solve the problem as the CPU is powered from the 12V rail, so you can use any modern power supply.
It's also possible to modify this Asus mainboard and feed 12V into the VRM section. You just have to replace the 6.3V input capacitors with 16V capacitors, disconnect them from the 5V rail by removing an inductor, and connect them to 12V using a bodge wire. Detailed instructions for this can be found in forums and on RUclips.