Dear Nick, I still have my first table saw that I got in 1973, still love it, and it still works great. I took a huge amount of time to set it up to machine shop tool and die precision. Years later in 1989, I was ripping a piece of 3/8" Lexan and standing pretty much the same way you were standing in this video. The plastic kicked back and I received a horrible injury to the inside of my leg. Since that day, I never stood directly in front of whatever I was ripping because it only took once. . . . Having said that, today, I have three table saws in my shop and since 1973, I've had two kickbacks. Period. That's two too many. The first time I cried. The second time I smiled with relief because when the wood and blade tried to find me, I was nowhere in their paths to be found! It took a little figuring and practice but I never stand directly in front of anything I'm ripping unless it's a 4'x8' sheet and I always use push sticks. I'm almost 70 now, still have all 10 fingers and still love what I'm doing. Most importantly, I still look forward to a good day in the shop and today, , , , , , I also look forward to videos from you and Travis! Thank You Sirs! Best Wishes and Kind Regards, Tom
Thanks for the video tips. I have installed a magnetic relay "STOP" switch a my leg level on the table saw frame and by tapping the switch to turn off the table saw without having to take my hand and eyes off the wood and find the the table saw off switch. I don't use plastic push stick because they can shatter if they tough the blade and I don't use the "bird's mouth" push stick anymore because the pivot at the back of the wood and the front of the wood is free to rise up because of the rotating blade. Instead, I use a longer wooden push block that provide downward pressure and forward motion all in one movement to prevent kickback and improve table saw safety.
I've been a contractor for 27 year, and i fully agree with you. He's leaving way too many variables open for kickback and all kinds of damage to the push stick and materials.
I must say that you gave a lot of tips in the years that I follw you. Please keep on doing. Even someone as me cannlearn from it. Making stuff dead accurate with my saw and most of it with red cedar. A 0.5 mm is my maximum deviation ;-)
Were you ever a woodshop teacher? Because you should have been. Your personality makes even the things that may be mundane and makes them fun to learn. Thank you sir.
Good tips. I have considered getting an inclinometer and after seeing this, I'll definitely get one. This will work well on setting the planer fence ninety degrees to the bed.
I just bought that digital one, and I completely forgot the zero-function, so thanks for reminding me that the ground on which you work on is never 0 degrees, haha
@@MDay8 So True. The hangar in which we have our shop is 100 years old, and our floor has been afflicted by tectonic drift over the century. Not only is no tool sitting level, no tool is at the same angle!
When cutting strips of laminate, i spray some contact cement on a piece of mdf, only, stick the laminate to it and make the cuts. You can cut extremely thin strips with no chipping and it’s easily removable afterwards.
point 2 - you said checking the miter gauge against the fence for square will tell you if the gauge is square to the blade, assuming the fence is parallel to the blade. That is true. But it's really not what you should be looking for. You can make a square cut using a miter gauge even if the gauge is not square to the blade. The key is that the fence for the miter gauge must be square to the miter slot/miter bar. Love the tip about using the inclinometer to set the bevel angles. I have one. I don't know why I don't use it more.
I just realized that I have now watched several of your videos since discovering your channel without subscribing, and felt like I was stealing. You sir are awesome, and I am just a new subscriber along for the ride.
Great tips and video - thanks heaps. Will certainly check out your channel. One thing you probably could have mentioned is that digital angle meters usually have a tolerance of 0.1deg to 0.2deg. Having said that, they are better than ‘eye-balling’ it.
Great tips! Nice work Nick and Travis. If I had another thumb you would get 2 thumbs up! Something I found out while making a segmented turning was to zero the angle box (in the 8:55 minute mark) on the cast iron table instead of the throat plate. Also some angle boxes are very sensitive and if the aren’t 90 degrees (front to back) to the cast iron table when measuring it can slightly throw the angle off. It may have been my particular angle box. Was just my particular issue but when I started doing those two things it corrected my issue.
You might want to watch or video on aligning and adjusting a table saw. In it, I suggest to the viewers that they spend some time carefully adjusting the throat plate so that its dead-on flush with the table. There are dozens of small measuring devices -- squares, triangles, height gauges, and so on that need to be set next to the saw blade. In order for them to be accurate, the throat plate has to be properly aligned. A digital angle finder is one of the very few that can be registered several inches away from the blade, then used to measured the blade position. I registered the angle finder off the throat plate because I know I can trust my throat plate -- with ALL of my measuring devices.
5 tips and somehow you went 6 for 6. Nice! One of the best "tips" video I have seen. I was a little worried that you were going to put the wedge in with the saw still running. Well done.
I cut lexan last week with a carbide rip blade, worked just fine. I cut same lexan in power miter saw, very bad idea resulted in bad kickback. I have had good results cutting 1/8" aluminum on tablesaw with fine tooth paneling blade on tablesaw. Great tips on the use of the inclomometer (digital angle finder) thank you for all the tablesaw tips in this video.
Yea a paneling blade will also cut most roof steel in a circular saw, but makes hella racket and leaves sharp edges that must be dealt with, so gloves and ear protection a must.
I hate stopping my saw in the middle of a cut. And I don't like stopping the wood either if I can avoid it. Unless I make a complete, continuous full cut, there's always some little ridge or burn mark on one side of the kerf or the other. As always, great content.
the trick is after saw winds down, move it back about an 1/8th inch or so so teeth are free in the kerf, then don't re-engage until blade reaches full speed.
thanks for the tip on opening the kerf. I was watching for the only solution for what I am doing as I use a 7-1/4" blade 1/8" there is no splitter for that. Don't anybody jump in and say thin kerf microjig won't work. Thanks for your knowledge. Now I need to subscribe To get more info. Thank you
Great video and tips as always 👌 👍👍👍 Just some observations tips... 4.o = safety tip... When used as shown, the blade is pushing the cut part forward (outfeed), so make sure you are expecting that or part will fly 😀. Normally, resistance is in the direction of the operator. ALSO, very important DO NOT use carbide tip blades to cut backward !! 5.o = if you place an inclinometer as high as you can (vertically from the table top), even more accurate reading is possible. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us.
It doesnt matter how high you place the inclinometer. If the bar or blade is perfectly straight, the angle and precision will be the same. If they are not, you will not be able to trust ANY measurement. The only time extra length will matter, is if you use the 3-4-5 (Pythagoras) method to square something.
Thanks. I may try using my table saw again. Can I also cut plexiglass as you demoed the plastic cutting? Does thickness or bulletproof plesiglass change the matter and how?
#2 assumes is that the faces or the piece are parallel. One way to check that is to flip the other piece at the cut line and stack it on top of the first piece. This puts the same face against the fence. Now run your finger on the cut end and make sure the piece line up perfectly. Now flip the pieces together so the other side is against the fence and check again. If one matches but the other doesn't the faces are not parallel. If they are both off then likely the cut was not square.
I thought you were only to use jointed boards on a table saw unless it's clamped in a jig? Ofc you don't have to, but it's not as safe. Edit: Jointed, then can be squared on a table saw/planer
@@CowsGoMonkey Jointed boards do not necessarily make a board safe or unsafe for use on a table saw. Contractors rip lumber store wood all the time and almost nothing that comes out of lumber store is square or parallel. You just have to use the right technique for the board you rea cutting.
@@connecticutaggie Ofc you can use unjointed boards, but jointed boards(2 sides) are safer. If you think that's wrong, then go rip a log on a table saw without a jig. Or a extremely cupped/twisted board. And if you are checking for accuracy anyways like you were nitpicking orginally, you would want a square or 2S jointed board.
So informative, wished I’d known this before. I’m selling my Bosch table saw as I’m going to England. But hope I can buy another one when I’m settled. Thank you!
When using the digital angle gauge ("inclinometer"), it is critical to rest it on the table and then rock it up onto the blade. The reason is any slight tilt of the device forward or back will result in an imperfect reading.
Thanks. It is an old, old saw and there are no riving knives available for it, and the mangled splitter that came with it interferes with the overhead guard we installed. (No, the Delta Disappearing Splitter won't work; we've tried.) I have gotten used to turning off the saw when the blade binds and inserting a small wedge in the kerf.
As usual all nice stuff, I do wonder how many peeps don't know the run grooves for the sled are parallel with the blade and thus make a good source of squaring....
Good tips, thanks. Just a note... +/- 0,1 deg precision may easily result to 66,4 or 66,6 and you never know. Inclinometr is very useful but in such a case, when you need critical precision, I would rather use calibrated ruler or something like that.
QUESTION: Are you supposed to zero out your inclinometer on the table surface, or on the table insert? I always thought it was supposed to be on the table surface, since there's where most of your wood will be riding. However, you zeroed yours out on the insert. So which way is correct? Yes, I realize in a perfect world the insert would be perfectly flush with the table top all the way across, but I think we all know we just get as close as possible when adjusting our inserts to be as flush with the table surface, because in reality, as long as the insert is very close and not proud of the table top, then that's really what we're shooting for. I just want to know I'm zeroing out my inclinometer correctly for the most accurate blade angle I can get.
There are two schools of thought on this subject. The first -- the "close enough" school you allude to -- is that you shouldn't use the insert because it may not be flush or level with the table. The second is that you should carefully align and level your insert so that you can confidently use the entire surface around the saw blade for measurement. I attend the second school. This not only lets me use the inclinometer close to the blade, I frequently employ a set of small engineer's squares, triangles, and height gauges for set-up. These would be useless if I couldn't trust the insert surface.
I know this an older video, but I hope you have replaced the bearings on that tablesaw by now. They're screaming for some love ole' son!! Love the videos
Hello i like your video but can i give you a tip. on 1:20 instead of marking the line on side of the blade and you have to use the straight square tool .. Mark line on the opposite side and align it to the cut out mark ..
Good tips, but #1 could also be done by lining up to the kerf on your miter gauge to your mark if you mark piece on other side and have a fresh kerf. enjoyed this....cheers from an old geezer in Orlando, Florida....Paul
The last one only works if the miter bar is made of steel. If it's aluminium, you will have to hold the inclinometer to the bar yourself. My own inclinometer measures to 1/20th degree (Diesella IP54 bevel box, item no. 10453500). :)
Great tips. Note: As an alternative to Tip 1, I often lift the pack of the piece up, keeping the edge flush to the fence and more the piece forward such the the marked edge is lowered to contact the blade. I then line up the mark with the blade then carefully lower the piece back down making sure it does not move side-to-side. It was probably not as accurate as using a straight edge but better than eyeing it.
That square to the blade to line up your cut line is so simple it’s genius. I’m just bitter this whole time I never thought of it. At least now I have a excuse to go buy a small square.
Another well done video! I was thinking that on your first part on cutting a board to a specific length why not use the kerf on your miter guage board to measure?
For tip #2, align the miter gage. Slide the gage out, slide back in upside down, with the miter part against the fence guide bar. Loosen and retighten the knob. Done, No fiddling.
This presumes that the fence guide bar is square to the miter slot, and this is not always the case . It's not on my saw, but if it is on yours this would be a good way to go.
Great tips, there is another way to do #1 Take a carpenters square up against the blade and mark a cut line right on the table saw , than extend the line on the peace you are cutting to the front edge and line up the two marks and cut, the line will have to be "Renewed " every so often and also for different blades
Good tip; thanks for sharing. Craftsman once made a table saw with a plastic insert for this very purpose -- the plastic took the pencil marks well, but there was a problem. You had to use an extremely sharp pencil. If you marked with one that's even slightly dull, the mark would be slightly to one side of the straightedge. The more rounded the pencil point, the further the mark was from where you wanted it. When I tested this saw, I found it more accurate to use a fine-point Sharpie. You could press the fiber tip right up against the straightedge and the mark lasted longer than pencil. You could easily "erase" the mark with a little naptha.
Another way is to use your square to extend your mark to the edge of the piece to be cut. Then place the piece in the miter gage. With the saw off slide the miter gage forward and align the mark on the edge of the workpiece with the tooth on the blade. I don't know if I explained this clearly or not but this method has resulted in accurate cuts for me.
@@fredsasse9973 It's a good technique, I used it often until an old craftsman showed me how to use a square to align the mark and the blade. One of the things I love about woodworking is that there are usually many ways to accomplish a specific task.
@@WorkshopCompanion One thing I noticed is that your kerf came right up to the mark, not past it. I presume that any method (and yours seems the simplest) has to make sure to pick the correct tooth (i.e. the one set to the edge you're measuring on) to mark from.
@@robertharris1748 This is true for saws where the teeth are set left and right. On many carbide-tooth saws, the teeth are exactly the same width, independent of how they're ground. As for the pencil line, I was taught to "save the line" rather than cut it. The area at the edge of a pencil line where light meets dark is much smaller than the actual width of the line itself. And I only use pencils for videos, when the camera needs to see what I'm cutting. When doing actual work, I mark cuts with a sharp knife -- much more precise than a pencil.
Takes an enormously long time. Lots of smoke. You have to crank up that laser to the "Death Ray" setting, then wait for it to burn all the way through the wood.
#1: Couldn't you extend the line drawn with the square all the way across the wood so it lines up with the kerf cut on the fence at the back and position the wood that way?
Of course you can; there is more than one way to skin this cat. But the problem with using the fence as a reference is the slop or "lash" in the system. The miter gauge guide bar is a few thousand's of an inch smaller than the slot it rides in -- otherwise it would be impossible to slide. Furthermore, every saw blade has a small amount of runout. Because of these things, that kerf in the fence will grow wider as you make successive cuts. You can correct for some of this lash by consistently pushing the miter gauge to the right or left (choose one) as you cut, and this will help extend the usefulness of the kerf. But using a saw tooth as a reference will always be accurate.
@@WorkshopCompanion I've always made sure that my off switch is placed where I can hit it with my leg... I don't need to let go off anything to shut the saw off in an emergency (which, thankfully, I've not had yet).
@@thegringobaker There are good arguments for a knee switch, but there are also some against. The switch is not in your line of sight, so there's a chance you'll miss it on the first kick. And you have to take one foot off the ground, so you're off balance for a second. That can be dangerous as well. I advise students to use the set-up that works best for the way they work -- normally, the set-up with which you feel the most comfortable and confident.
@@WorkshopCompanion Yes, there are valid arguments for both ways. I do agree that some of the under- saw switches are not exactly a safety feature as they are so far under the saw that finding them easily is sometimes not possible. The factory location on mine is very good... allowing me to shut it off with a simple knee bend... not foot raising required. I'd like to mention that i found the video entertaining and educational. I enjoyed it.
Could you please tell me which Inclinometer you are using? I would like to by that one you have as well. I bought a different one and sent it back because it was all over the place as far as accuracy. Thank you
I thought the same. Sounds as rough as a badger's arse. Some good tips, though. I enjoy watching these. It's always nice to see a different solution to common problems.
I suppose what you mean by a "kerf" is a riving knife or splitter. If you google " sears craftsman table saw parts," you will find several suppliers of replacement parts, including Sears Parts Direct. They may be able to help you. I have an older (50+ years) Delta table saw. When it was made, there was no such thing as riving knives, and there are none available for it as an accessory. We recently made a riving knife from .105"-thick steel that will fit the old saw guard mount. (Most thin-kerf saw blades are .110" thick. The .105" steel provides .005" clearance if I mount my thinnest blade.) You may have to do something similar depending on your saw model and what's available.
Yeah, we were thinking about replacing the bearings but decided to find a slightly newer version of the same model. The slightly newer version has adjustments that allow you to further adjust the angle of the blade. - Travis
I suggest you draw an X on one face of a board when checking that the miter gauge is square to the blade. It simply marks the board so you know which face is up or down after you cut through the X and lay the two parts against the fence. It also shows you that you're laying one cut end against the other. It's not absolutely necessary if you trust your memory. I don't.
on the inclinometer, do you think a cell phone could be used instead? I have an app on the phone for measuring angles like for a roof pitch, maybe not accurate enough?
If you watch other videos, you'll see that I use a smart phone app called "Rotating Sphere Inclinometer" all the time. It's no longer available, but "iLevel" does just as well. I also have a magnetic back for my phone so I the stick it to tables and fences.
Love the tips, but you lost me on the cross cut alignment. I was taught to always square cuts with blade or the miter gauges track. By aligning to your fence you have to know or assume the fence is square with your blade, but that may not be the case. Correct me if I'm overlooking something. :)
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Dear Nick,
I still have my first table saw that I got in 1973, still love it, and it still works great. I took a huge amount of time to set it up to machine shop tool and die precision. Years later in 1989, I was ripping a piece of 3/8" Lexan and standing pretty much the same way you were standing in this video. The plastic kicked back and I received a horrible injury to the inside of my leg. Since that day, I never stood directly in front of whatever I was ripping because it only took once. . . .
Having said that, today, I have three table saws in my shop and since 1973, I've had two kickbacks. Period. That's two too many. The first time I cried. The second time I smiled with relief because when the wood and blade tried to find me, I was nowhere in their paths to be found! It took a little figuring and practice but I never stand directly in front of anything I'm ripping unless it's a 4'x8' sheet and I always use push sticks. I'm almost 70 now, still have all 10 fingers and still love what I'm doing. Most importantly, I still look forward to a good day in the shop and today, , , , , , I also look forward to videos from you and Travis! Thank You Sirs!
Best Wishes and Kind Regards,
Tom
Thanks for the video tips. I have installed a magnetic relay "STOP" switch a my leg level on the table saw frame and by tapping the switch to turn off the table saw without having to take my hand and eyes off the wood and find the the table saw off switch. I don't use plastic push stick because they can shatter if they tough the blade and I don't use the "bird's mouth" push stick anymore because the pivot at the back of the wood and the front of the wood is free to rise up because of the rotating blade. Instead, I use a longer wooden push block that provide downward pressure and forward motion all in one movement to prevent kickback and improve table saw safety.
I've been a contractor for 27 year, and i fully agree with you. He's leaving way too many variables open for kickback and all kinds of damage to the push stick and materials.
Best time to discover Nick Engler - 10 years ago! 2nd best - right now! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Most welcome...I think..
Thank you for the lesson! This channel is my new favorite! Nick is simply awesome!
By far the best table saw tips I have seen. Thank you!
Most welcome.
Great tips. I never thought of using my angle finder to set up my mitre fence.
me either
FANTASTIC TIPS FOR NEW TABLE SAW USER, THANK YOU!!!
I must say that you gave a lot of tips in the years that I follw you. Please keep on doing. Even someone as me cannlearn from it. Making stuff dead accurate with my saw and most of it with red cedar. A 0.5 mm is my maximum deviation ;-)
Were you ever a woodshop teacher? Because you should have been. Your personality makes even the things that may be mundane and makes them fun to learn. Thank you sir.
You are most welcome. I taught craftsmanship and wood engineering for many years at the University of Cincinnati.
@@WorkshopCompanion sure wish I could have learned from you then, but that's ok I'm learning now. Just hoping 52 is not too late. 😂😂😂
@@lemhanback9595 Have two decades on you and I can say with certainty, it's not.
Good tips. I have considered getting an inclinometer and after seeing this, I'll definitely get one. This will work well on setting the planer fence ninety degrees to the bed.
It's one of those tools that, once you have it, you find a zillion uses for it. A month after purchase, you wonder how you ever did without it.
I just bought that digital one, and I completely forgot the zero-function, so thanks for reminding me that the ground on which you work on is never 0 degrees, haha
@@MDay8 So True. The hangar in which we have our shop is 100 years old, and our floor has been afflicted by tectonic drift over the century. Not only is no tool sitting level, no tool is at the same angle!
When cutting strips of laminate, i spray some contact cement on a piece of mdf, only, stick the laminate to it and make the cuts. You can cut extremely thin strips with no chipping and it’s easily removable afterwards.
Good tip.
Great tip Nick, so simple but some if them I have never of. Keep them coming
Will do. And thanks.
point 2 - you said checking the miter gauge against the fence for square will tell you if the gauge is square to the blade, assuming the fence is parallel to the blade. That is true. But it's really not what you should be looking for. You can make a square cut using a miter gauge even if the gauge is not square to the blade. The key is that the fence for the miter gauge must be square to the miter slot/miter bar.
Love the tip about using the inclinometer to set the bevel angles. I have one. I don't know why I don't use it more.
Excellent and impressive tips. Wish I knew them years ago.
Many thanks!
Some of these I knew but have forgotten. Did not know about cutting plastic. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Same to you.
Most useful RUclips channel!!
I just realized that I have now watched several of your videos since discovering your channel without subscribing, and felt like I was stealing. You sir are awesome, and I am just a new subscriber along for the ride.
Thanks...and welcome.
That last tip is brilliant, thanks!
Your generosity and knowledge is utterly welcome and amazing. Thank you
You guys you are helping me more than I can possibly begin to explain for sharing may God bless you guys
Thanks.
Great tips and video - thanks heaps. Will certainly check out your channel.
One thing you probably could have mentioned is that digital angle meters usually have a tolerance of 0.1deg to 0.2deg. Having said that, they are better than ‘eye-balling’ it.
Great tips! Nice work Nick and Travis. If I had another thumb you would get 2 thumbs up!
Something I found out while making a segmented turning was to zero the angle box (in the 8:55 minute mark) on the cast iron table instead of the throat plate. Also some angle boxes are very sensitive and if the aren’t 90 degrees (front to back) to the cast iron table when measuring it can slightly throw the angle off. It may have been my particular angle box. Was just my particular issue but when I started doing those two things it corrected my issue.
You might want to watch or video on aligning and adjusting a table saw. In it, I suggest to the viewers that they spend some time carefully adjusting the throat plate so that its dead-on flush with the table. There are dozens of small measuring devices -- squares, triangles, height gauges, and so on that need to be set next to the saw blade. In order for them to be accurate, the throat plate has to be properly aligned. A digital angle finder is one of the very few that can be registered several inches away from the blade, then used to measured the blade position. I registered the angle finder off the throat plate because I know I can trust my throat plate -- with ALL of my measuring devices.
For all the tips you discuss, there are just as many other tips by carefully watching.
Thanks for the great content.
You get it. You're most welcome.
Ill be using tip #5 tomorrow. Thanks 👍
This intro made my day. Fantastic.
Thanks for saying.
5 tips and somehow you went 6 for 6. Nice! One of the best "tips" video I have seen.
I was a little worried that you were going to put the wedge in with the saw still running. Well done.
These are really good tips. Especially the plastic cut. I use acrylic under everything I glue so I just have to clean the glue off when I'm done
Good tip. Here, we use wax, waxed paper, and sheet plastic, depending.
Very nice tips, thanks for sharing
Thanks.
I cut lexan last week with a carbide rip blade, worked just fine. I cut same lexan in power miter saw, very bad idea resulted in bad kickback. I have had good results cutting 1/8" aluminum on tablesaw with fine tooth paneling blade on tablesaw. Great tips on the use of the inclomometer (digital angle finder) thank you for all the tablesaw tips in this video.
Most welcome.
Yea a paneling blade will also cut most roof steel in a circular saw, but makes hella racket and leaves sharp edges that must be dealt with, so gloves and ear protection a must.
Fantastic tips !!!!!! Thanks a million 🙂
I hate stopping my saw in the middle of a cut. And I don't like stopping the wood either if I can avoid it. Unless I make a complete, continuous full cut, there's always some little ridge or burn mark on one side of the kerf or the other.
As always, great content.
the trick is after saw winds down, move it back about an 1/8th inch or so so teeth are free in the kerf, then don't re-engage until blade reaches full speed.
thanks for the tip on opening the kerf. I was watching for the only solution for what I am doing as I use a 7-1/4" blade 1/8" there is no splitter for that. Don't anybody jump in and say thin kerf microjig won't work. Thanks for your knowledge. Now I need to subscribe To get more info. Thank you
Most welcome.
Great video and tips as always 👌 👍👍👍
Just some observations tips...
4.o = safety tip... When used as shown, the blade is pushing the cut part forward (outfeed), so make sure you are expecting that or part will fly 😀. Normally, resistance is in the direction of the operator. ALSO, very important DO NOT use carbide tip blades to cut backward !!
5.o = if you place an inclinometer as high as you can (vertically from the table top), even more accurate reading is possible.
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us.
It doesnt matter how high you place the inclinometer. If the bar or blade is perfectly straight, the angle and precision will be the same. If they are not, you will not be able to trust ANY measurement.
The only time extra length will matter, is if you use the 3-4-5 (Pythagoras) method to square something.
Thanks. I may try using my table saw again. Can I also cut plexiglass as you demoed the plastic cutting? Does thickness or bulletproof plesiglass change the matter and how?
The dialogue on this video is hard panned to the left channel. Not sure if anyone has mentioned it. 👍🏻 love your stuff!!
We're aware; rendering mistake made early on, plan to redo the video sometime in the future. Thanks for the kids words.
Love your knowledge and explanation. Thank you so much
Most welcome.
I just discovered your channel. You sir, have earned a subscriber.
Thanks...and welcome!
#2 assumes is that the faces or the piece are parallel. One way to check that is to flip the other piece at the cut line and stack it on top of the first piece. This puts the same face against the fence. Now run your finger on the cut end and make sure the piece line up perfectly. Now flip the pieces together so the other side is against the fence and check again. If one matches but the other doesn't the faces are not parallel. If they are both off then likely the cut was not square.
I thought you were only to use jointed boards on a table saw unless it's clamped in a jig? Ofc you don't have to, but it's not as safe. Edit: Jointed, then can be squared on a table saw/planer
@@CowsGoMonkey Jointed boards do not necessarily make a board safe or unsafe for use on a table saw. Contractors rip lumber store wood all the time and almost nothing that comes out of lumber store is square or parallel. You just have to use the right technique for the board you rea cutting.
@@connecticutaggie Ofc you can use unjointed boards, but jointed boards(2 sides) are safer.
If you think that's wrong, then go rip a log on a table saw without a jig. Or a extremely cupped/twisted board.
And if you are checking for accuracy anyways like you were nitpicking orginally, you would want a square or 2S jointed board.
Great tips.
My favorite is setting the miter gauge. I did not see that one coming!
Thanks.
Great tips!!
So informative, wished I’d known this before. I’m selling my Bosch table saw as I’m going to England. But hope I can buy another one when I’m settled. Thank you!
Most welcome.
Some great tips. Thank you
Awesome, thanks for these!
Nice and useful tips 👏
Thanks! Great tips
Thanks for sharing! Love the tip with the digital angle finder.
Thanks.
Great teacher. Thanks for sharing.
Most welcome.
When using the digital angle gauge ("inclinometer"), it is critical to rest it on the table and then rock it up onto the blade. The reason is any slight tilt of the device forward or back will result in an imperfect reading.
Nice tips!
This is great set of tips!
Thanks for saying.
Good tips! How come you don't use a riving knife or splitter?
Thanks. It is an old, old saw and there are no riving knives available for it, and the mangled splitter that came with it interferes with the overhead guard we installed. (No, the Delta Disappearing Splitter won't work; we've tried.) I have gotten used to turning off the saw when the blade binds and inserting a small wedge in the kerf.
excellent tips and you explained it very well. Thank you sir. !!!
Most welcome.
Great tips!
As usual all nice stuff, I do wonder how many peeps don't know the run grooves for the sled are parallel with the blade and thus make a good source of squaring....
Very informative! Thanks
Most welcome.
Genius stuff, thank you
Thanks. Learnt a lots on your video.
Most welcome.
Good tips, thanks. Just a note... +/- 0,1 deg precision may easily result to 66,4 or 66,6 and you never know. Inclinometr is very useful but in such a case, when you need critical precision, I would rather use calibrated ruler or something like that.
Great video! Thank you
Most welcome.
great tips thank you
QUESTION: Are you supposed to zero out your inclinometer on the table surface, or on the table insert? I always thought it was supposed to be on the table surface, since there's where most of your wood will be riding. However, you zeroed yours out on the insert. So which way is correct?
Yes, I realize in a perfect world the insert would be perfectly flush with the table top all the way across, but I think we all know we just get as close as possible when adjusting our inserts to be as flush with the table surface, because in reality, as long as the insert is very close and not proud of the table top, then that's really what we're shooting for. I just want to know I'm zeroing out my inclinometer correctly for the most accurate blade angle I can get.
There are two schools of thought on this subject. The first -- the "close enough" school you allude to -- is that you shouldn't use the insert because it may not be flush or level with the table. The second is that you should carefully align and level your insert so that you can confidently use the entire surface around the saw blade for measurement. I attend the second school. This not only lets me use the inclinometer close to the blade, I frequently employ a set of small engineer's squares, triangles, and height gauges for set-up. These would be useless if I couldn't trust the insert surface.
I really appreciate you videos!!
Thank you. We appreciate your kind words.
Brilliant...the wedge thing cures a common problem....anyone know how to fix a Makita fence that doesnt seat in a straight line?
Very helpful thanks 🙏
I know this an older video, but I hope you have replaced the bearings on that tablesaw by now. They're screaming for some love ole' son!! Love the videos
Hello i like your video but can i give you a tip. on 1:20 instead of marking the line on side of the blade and you have to use the straight square tool .. Mark line on the opposite side and align it to the cut out mark ..
Thank you!
hmmm I tholught I had all your vids watched and liked.
Good tips, but #1 could also be done by lining up to the kerf on your miter gauge to your mark if you mark piece on other side and have a fresh kerf. enjoyed this....cheers from an old geezer in Orlando, Florida....Paul
I was just about to say the same exact thing.
I do the same with miter saw fence
I do the same with miter saw fence
Thanks
I watched quite a few tips videos before this one. You showed some new tricks that are very practical. Thank you!!
Thank you from a new subscriber.
You're welcome...and welcome!
You are do good.
Nice tips. Please use your upper saw guard to encourage everyone to do so.
The last one only works if the miter bar is made of steel. If it's aluminium, you will have to hold the inclinometer to the bar yourself.
My own inclinometer measures to 1/20th degree (Diesella IP54 bevel box, item no. 10453500). :)
Thanks 👌
Brilliant
Great tips.
Note: As an alternative to Tip 1, I often lift the pack of the piece up, keeping the edge flush to the fence and more the piece forward such the the marked edge is lowered to contact the blade. I then line up the mark with the blade then carefully lower the piece back down making sure it does not move side-to-side. It was probably not as accurate as using a straight edge but better than eyeing it.
Thank you.
Most welcome.
That square to the blade to line up your cut line is so simple it’s genius. I’m just bitter this whole time I never thought of it. At least now I have a excuse to go buy a small square.
It's always good to have an excuse the buy a new tool.
@@WorkshopCompanion Tell my wife about it!
I needed to cut plastic once, I found my ceramic tile blade, dry, did best out of what tools I had available.
I've used a tile blade, too, on occasion. Thanks for the tip.
Another well done video! I was thinking that on your first part on cutting a board to a specific length why not use the kerf on your miter guage board to measure?
It works for a short while, but normal saw runout soon widens the kerf and the accuracy evaporates.
For tip #2, align the miter gage. Slide the gage out, slide back in upside down, with the miter part against the fence guide bar.
Loosen and retighten the knob. Done, No fiddling.
This presumes that the fence guide bar is square to the miter slot, and this is not always the case . It's not on my saw, but if it is on yours this would be a good way to go.
Great tips, there is another way to do #1 Take a carpenters square up against the blade and mark a cut line right on the table saw , than extend the line on the peace you are cutting to the front edge and line up the two marks and cut, the line will have to be "Renewed " every so often and also for different blades
Good tip; thanks for sharing. Craftsman once made a table saw with a plastic insert for this very purpose -- the plastic took the pencil marks well, but there was a problem. You had to use an extremely sharp pencil. If you marked with one that's even slightly dull, the mark would be slightly to one side of the straightedge. The more rounded the pencil point, the further the mark was from where you wanted it. When I tested this saw, I found it more accurate to use a fine-point Sharpie. You could press the fiber tip right up against the straightedge and the mark lasted longer than pencil. You could easily "erase" the mark with a little naptha.
Another way is to use your square to extend your mark to the edge of the piece to be cut. Then place the piece in the miter gage. With the saw off slide the miter gage forward and align the mark on the edge of the workpiece with the tooth on the blade. I don't know if I explained this clearly or not but this method has resulted in accurate cuts for me.
@@fredsasse9973 It's a good technique, I used it often until an old craftsman showed me how to use a square to align the mark and the blade. One of the things I love about woodworking is that there are usually many ways to accomplish a specific task.
@@WorkshopCompanion One thing I noticed is that your kerf came right up to the mark, not past it. I presume that any method (and yours seems the simplest) has to make sure to pick the correct tooth (i.e. the one set to the edge you're measuring on) to mark from.
@@robertharris1748 This is true for saws where the teeth are set left and right. On many carbide-tooth saws, the teeth are exactly the same width, independent of how they're ground. As for the pencil line, I was taught to "save the line" rather than cut it. The area at the edge of a pencil line where light meets dark is much smaller than the actual width of the line itself. And I only use pencils for videos, when the camera needs to see what I'm cutting. When doing actual work, I mark cuts with a sharp knife -- much more precise than a pencil.
Fascinating stuff. Thank you for sharing with us.
Most welcome.
Great tips! Wish you would do a set for the Shopsmith table saw.
What are your thoughts of using a laser leveler for cuts?
Takes an enormously long time. Lots of smoke. You have to crank up that laser to the "Death Ray" setting, then wait for it to burn all the way through the wood.
@@WorkshopCompanion Hahahaha. I meant for lining up the cut with the saw blade.
#1: Couldn't you extend the line drawn with the square all the way across the wood so it lines up with the kerf cut on the fence at the back and position the wood that way?
Of course you can; there is more than one way to skin this cat. But the problem with using the fence as a reference is the slop or "lash" in the system. The miter gauge guide bar is a few thousand's of an inch smaller than the slot it rides in -- otherwise it would be impossible to slide. Furthermore, every saw blade has a small amount of runout. Because of these things, that kerf in the fence will grow wider as you make successive cuts. You can correct for some of this lash by consistently pushing the miter gauge to the right or left (choose one) as you cut, and this will help extend the usefulness of the kerf. But using a saw tooth as a reference will always be accurate.
Great tips, can you show the start/stop control for the table saw. That looks like a much more useful location rather than under the saw.
I think so. Safer, too. It came with an overhead guard that we installed on the saw about 35 years ago.
@@WorkshopCompanion I've always made sure that my off switch is placed where I can hit it with my leg... I don't need to let go off anything to shut the saw off in an emergency (which, thankfully, I've not had yet).
@@thegringobaker There are good arguments for a knee switch, but there are also some against. The switch is not in your line of sight, so there's a chance you'll miss it on the first kick. And you have to take one foot off the ground, so you're off balance for a second. That can be dangerous as well. I advise students to use the set-up that works best for the way they work -- normally, the set-up with which you feel the most comfortable and confident.
@@WorkshopCompanion Yes, there are valid arguments for both ways. I do agree that some of the under- saw switches are not exactly a safety feature as they are so far under the saw that finding them easily is sometimes not possible. The factory location on mine is very good... allowing me to shut it off with a simple knee bend... not foot raising required.
I'd like to mention that i found the video entertaining and educational. I enjoyed it.
Could you please tell me which Inclinometer you are using? I would like to by that one you have as well. I bought a different one and sent it back because it was all over the place as far as accuracy. Thank you
Look at Neoteck. That's what I would buy today.
Great tips, learned something.
Sounds like the bearings in your table saw need replacing
Noted. Trying to find time to tear it down.
I thought the same. Sounds as rough as a badger's arse.
Some good tips, though. I enjoy watching these. It's always nice to see a different solution to common problems.
I have a question I have an older Craftsman table say and it does not have a kerf. Where would I go to find one or make one?
I suppose what you mean by a "kerf" is a riving knife or splitter. If you google " sears craftsman table saw parts," you will find several suppliers of replacement parts, including Sears Parts Direct. They may be able to help you. I have an older (50+ years) Delta table saw. When it was made, there was no such thing as riving knives, and there are none available for it as an accessory. We recently made a riving knife from .105"-thick steel that will fit the old saw guard mount. (Most thin-kerf saw blades are .110" thick. The .105" steel provides .005" clearance if I mount my thinnest blade.) You may have to do something similar depending on your saw model and what's available.
About that 1/10th degree error on the bevel cut: If you are making an octagonal frame, you make 16 cuts , not 8.
SO the error is 8 x .1 =1.6 degrees.
Good catch.
Great video Sir 👍 what kind of blade did u used?
FS Tool
Sounds like the saw is getting ready for some new bearings
Yeah, we were thinking about replacing the bearings but decided to find a slightly newer version of the same model. The slightly newer version has adjustments that allow you to further adjust the angle of the blade. - Travis
Hey do you have to draw an x on the board when checking fence for square
I suggest you draw an X on one face of a board when checking that the miter gauge is square to the blade. It simply marks the board so you know which face is up or down after you cut through the X and lay the two parts against the fence. It also shows you that you're laying one cut end against the other. It's not absolutely necessary if you trust your memory. I don't.
Number 1 tip always keep the crown guard over the blade
on the inclinometer, do you think a cell phone could be used instead? I have an app on the phone for measuring angles like for a roof pitch, maybe not accurate enough?
If you watch other videos, you'll see that I use a smart phone app called "Rotating Sphere Inclinometer" all the time. It's no longer available, but "iLevel" does just as well. I also have a magnetic back for my phone so I the stick it to tables and fences.
Love the tips, but you lost me on the cross cut alignment. I was taught to always square cuts with blade or the miter gauges track. By aligning to your fence you have to know or assume the fence is square with your blade, but that may not be the case. Correct me if I'm overlooking something. :)
For the tip #3, won't it burn the wood if we stop feeding it?
Your wery xsalant I lay k your program. I am rohana in Sri Lanka thank you
Most welcome.