My older sister bought McIntosh stereo equipment in the late 60's. She gave that system to her son about 8 years ago. The surrounds were going bad in the speakers. He took them to an authorized McIntosh dealer in Denver. They restored the speakers to like-new condition at no cost. Turns out McIntosh guarantees their equipment for life. Good to know for those who own McIntosh
Just one tip Tony. If you can get hold of a lazy Suzan (turn table) you may find it very easy to apply the glue bead evenly. I refoam drivers a lot, then it makes work faster and smoother.
I tried this on a nice set of Infinity SS 2003s. It was extremely messy, picked rubber cement off my fingers for a week, was WAY more difficult than this, also was hot and humid during my hard work. After all that, despite the seller assuring me the speakers had been tested, I refoamed a dead woofer. Oh, and I broke a plastic gasket trying to get at the existing foam surround.
Years ago I did the same job on AR-18s woofer and used the shim method and it worked fine and the ARs were a little similar as there was a single crossover component capacitor for the paper cone tweeter. The job needed patience and good sharp hobby knives and for the glue, I was a little stuck 20+ odd years ago and managed to scrounge some shoe repairers glue that worked like contact adhesive so it was tricky, to say the least. The glue suggested here being more flexible timewise would be best. For the shims, I used playing cards cut into strips. The preparation took hours of painstaking scraping and at the edge of the cone used a very light rub with fine sandpaper. To clean off the basket metal surface I used a very small amount of white spirit to remove any dust and finger grease from the surface. Good luck and be brave and careful and as Tony says, allow plenty of time for yourself and cure time for each stage.
At 34:46 in the video, you picked up the trim ring and started to prepare it for gluing by removing the foam residue, but you did this with the dust cap OPEN and near to it, and you're going to make a mess of foam residue. You should have cleaned up the trim ring near the beginning, why not as soon as you removed it, but certainly before your bench clean-up and well before opening the dust cap. Otherwise this is an excellent carefully explained video.
4 methods I am aware of: 1) by feel, 2) shims, 3) signal generator, 4) AA battery accross the speaker terminals. I typically do the feel method unless the tolerances are very tight, then I employ the battery accross the terminals. The battery method is very useful for foams that bond to the rear of the cone. I use shims if the dust cover has been pushed in by little fingers already and will be replaced. Foams are easy to do and after your first repair you will have acqukred a new skill and will move onto replacing tweeter ferrofluid and redoing xovers, speaker jacks for banana plugs.
Great vid Tony! FWIW I use a AA sized battery to lift and center the voice coil of refoams. At 1.5 volts you don't have to worry about burning out the voice coil and it will keep it perfectly centered. Only needs to connected for a short amount of time and can be disconnected once the glue gets tacky. Works every time!
A tip that has worked for me (weigh in if you see any disadvantages to this): Refoaming a set of speakers - Infinity Reference Threes I got for free with both a ~4.5" and 8" in each with no foam left at all.. One woofer had a tear between the cone and spider (accordion pleated bit in the back behind the cone), so I decided to experiment on this one first. Isopropyl alcohol worked to soften the adhesive and dozens of cotton swabs and a lot of gentle rubbing rendered the remains of the foam gasket and adhesive gone with no damage to the cone. Using craft knives to scrape the same from the basket removed a lot of paint as it clearly wasn't very precisely made and isn't actually flat. Because the cones appeared to be plastic, I used the same trick of rubbing isopropyl on the visible adhesive around the dust cap until it was gone, leaving some alcohol residue in the gap. Then I carefully used a craft knife to prod around the gap until I found a spot it went through and slowly pried the dust cap up. Unfortunately, on this first attempt I went too deep with the knife and cut the voice coil wires - those things are tiny, if you haven't seen them before. I was surprised to find they passed through the cone as high up as they did, rather than being attached to the top edge of the "cylinder" of the voice coil at the base of the cone. However, this approach led me to successfully remove the dust cap without cutting on the more intact speaker!
An old tech (he's in his eighties, bless him) showed me the second technique and like you he also used a sinusoidal signal. I've mostly used the first method though. For shims, I scavenged the defuser plastic sheeting out of a scrap led Display....which works quite well. Your right about the tolerances of those JBL's Tony....first time I restored a set of cabinets (LX 800's) the woofers were as scratchy as shite. Thanks for posting and for showing that little gizmo at the end - it's looks like something I could really use man!
Tony. this is your best video yet! Speaker impedance vs. frequency is seldom discussed. Thanks for this! Also, is there a particular advantage of 16-Ohm speakers vs 8-ohm?
Hi as i have said before you are a man of many talents in my younger days I used to run a mobile disco and if a speaker went faulty i used to send them to a company called baker loudspeakers which offered a reckoning service
Thanks for this very interesting and well done video. This was extremely informative and the very best type of RUclips that I like to see as I learned something new and most all your videos are presented in a very pleasant and well produced manner.
Nice repair Tony! I've run into your channel from time to time and then saw this video. Two woofers, foam surrounds, well, I can safely rule out ADS as they used buttyl rubber for the surrounds, at least on some speakers anyway. I have a pair of L810 bookshelves myself, series 1 so 6 Ohm nominal @ 20-100W nominal. They are powered by a modest NAD 7240PE receiver for a dynamic and punchy sound. the ONLY thing I dislike about them is the spring clips but thankfully you can get good spring clip pins for your speaker cables these days.
also wiggling the speaker and grinding the voice coil is impossible to not do, all you can do is try and if it dont' work why then... strap c4 to it and blow it to smitherines and be happy that you won anyway
This was a great video and nicely presented. The only drawback for me would be the look of the glue. I wished there was a way to make it look neater so you could show off your speakers like we did when they were new.
If you use alieens tacky glue, just after it set up you can use a few qtips and water to clean off the cone or surround. Go easy with the water. Result will look very clean. Like new.
Nice video, accurate as always, Tony! I wonder, would it be easier to get 4 new 4-ohms 10 inch woofers if there was something unrepairable with one or more of the originals?
Nice job and very interesting video, second method very interesting. These speakers are really impressive and I understand that you want to keep them on top. I've not seen the total measurements because you should need another video to make them (adding mass for Qfactors...). It's clearly difficult to see what can be made with these, as you can find different solutions, phasis controlled speakers Revox style, semi push pulls like Kef, or simpler associations like Canterbury with compression horn. I also remember Cabasse Etna or Stromboli bass enclosure with opposite coupling directions, Quad bass complements for their electrostatics ESL 63 and even some special high gain large range for tube electronics made for theatre in the 60's by JBL... Anyway, the program and solution you use can be found in many different makes, as far as you have a sound card, but is interesting as it seems the simplest and easiest way to get measurements done (no resistors soldering...). I guess you're next video will proove as instructing and interesting, and I can't hold my breath waiting for the next episode.
Trying th=his for the first time on woofers. WhWill use availaboe tones off the internet - youtube etc through my receiver. what frequency is best for 10 and 12 inch sub woofers?
I'm confused about removing the cone. Why do it if it's not damaged? I replaced the surrounds in my JBL L60T's and didn't need to adjust anything. The cone easily stayed in it's original position. I was prepared to adjust it but it simply wasn't required. 👍
My dad has a pair of Rogers LS8a speakers, but the surround has deteriorated (more like powderised). It appears I will have to do a DIY repair to refoam the surround of 4 drivers (which are 6.5 inches / 165 mm each). Can I seek guidance on: 1) where I can buy good quality surround foam and the glue for the repair work; 2) the type or material of the surround I should buy for these speakers (I believe it's the foam type instead of the rubber type). The concern is if I use the wrong type it may affect the sound of the speakers; and 3) I believe do not need to refoam the tweeters (sorry if this is a naive question), hence seeking confirmation on this. Thank you in advance or any guidance provided. Best regards
I have the same 16 ohm speakers in a Realistic T100 set containing 4 of these speakers with severe foam rot, would rubber surrounds work better, last longer?
it doesn't make sense to use shims, the spider keeps the voice coil centered. the shims would just be pushing against the spider and when you remove the shims if the voice coil is not perfectly centered the spider will try to re-center it to it's original position that ma cause a little tension into the cone and surrounds.
Hi Tony. I'm going to get struck by lightning from my passed grandmother, but she snored like your dog or was that the other way around ? Two woofers, your Klipsch speakers ?? Saw that on the Eico rebuild and rattled my little Bluetooth speakers. Thanks for this piece. Would love to see you do a whole speaker rebuild including the crossovers and if you're interested have a set of KLH 5 that would volunteer. Love my 5's because they have the cloth surrounds and do quite well in aging. Is only problem is the crossover caps drying out and board tarnishing causing ground failures.
Thanks Tony! Nice job! I guess that some skin flakes on the voice coil won't hurt anything? What if you reconed a speaker using method 2 and the voice coil was not rubbing, but was still a little crooked - would that affect the sound?
Difficult to say. If it's out of line then the magnetic forces will be out of line and you may get sideways deflection on loud sounds which could encourage rubbing.
Sorry if I missed it in your video but what's the reason you shimmed the gap? To prevent from accidentally adjusting the gap while gluing the surround? I haven't seen anyone else do that.
You can use puncher outfit glue over the foam before it starts to split . This glue turns the foam in to RUBBER and stey like that for good , ive done it .
Your puppy is a loud snorer for as small as she is :) Are you working on a pair of EPI speakers I have a pair with dual woofers, just can't remember the model off the top of my head.
What was that you're overwhelmed I'm the one that's overwhelmed I've been dabbling since I was about 14 or 15 first for two-way radios and CBS now I got to set up Radio Shack Mach 2 so I want to refund dude you got me overwhelmed and I'm scared to death to even try it thanks for the video
Well done, as usual. I have, however, a cathedral style field-coil speaker from 1926 that has a ripped cone. The cone will probably crumble if I try to repair it with rubber cement so the trick for me now is to replace it, but it's no standard cone. It's a field-coil cone with a steep angle that ends with a tiny (by today's standards) speaker coil, behind which is a massive electromagnet. Assuming I can fix the electromagnet (some mounting parts are missing) I will then attempt to replace the cone, but how does one do this, exactly? No speaker repair companies sell cones for this type speaker, or do they? Can they be custom made without costing a fortune?
Firstly do try to repair the original cone. Glue very thin paper over the tears. If this fails you can experiment with making a new cone. Cut and glue sheets of paper to make a cone and get the sizes of inner and outer diameters then trim them to fit the length. I have done this and after afew bad results I got it. Be patient and it's possible.
@@jonka1 Thanks, I'll give it a try. If I end up replacing the cone, what kind of paper are speaker cones made of? Is it possible to turn a form on a lathe, then press a sheet of paper onto the form?
@@sincerelyyours7538 I used standard printer paper to make cones. I made two stiff wire rings as guides for the diameters and after a few attempts the results were good. They don't have to look pretty as long as they are well glued to the voice coil. Turning a former sounds like a good idea
Eddy_D Good question - that would be interesting! I have a Bose 50W box type Solo TV sound system that has amazing surround sound. I have it facing crossways in a corner of the room and the sound seems to come from everywhere. A dog can bark in a movie and sound like it is coming from outside. I can move the TV to the other side of the room and the sound sounds like it is coming from the TV. I thought that it was impossible for it to work like that and actually planned on sending it back when I ordered it. I was just curious. But after hearing it, I kept it!
The T-100’’ were wired parallel also and yes they were paper ....I know these are textile but I thought you might be using them as replacement speakers in the T-100’s ....lol excellent video and you did an awesome job on the woofers as well . Keep em coming !
I tell you what I sure would never let you reform none of my speakers you are very messy at it plus you do steps you don't have to do I reform speakers and I never cut the center out of my cones
Too much talk, it's boring the amount unneeded talk in this video, the guys doesn't shut up. The video could be half the time and have the same information
My older sister bought McIntosh stereo equipment in the late 60's. She gave that system to her son about 8 years ago. The surrounds were going bad in the speakers. He took them to an authorized McIntosh dealer in Denver. They restored the speakers to like-new condition at no cost. Turns out McIntosh guarantees their equipment for life. Good to know for those who own McIntosh
Just one tip Tony. If you can get hold of a lazy Suzan (turn table) you may find it very easy to apply the glue bead evenly. I refoam drivers a lot, then it makes work faster and smoother.
I use one all the time for all types of repairs. I just added a 1/4" 1'x1' square piece of ply to support amps.
I tried this on a nice set of Infinity SS 2003s. It was extremely messy, picked rubber cement off my fingers for a week, was WAY more difficult than this, also was hot and humid during my hard work. After all that, despite the seller assuring me the speakers had been tested, I refoamed a dead woofer. Oh, and I broke a plastic gasket trying to get at the existing foam surround.
A very welcome video. I ordered a pair of kits to repair my AR-3a woofers months ago. I just need to get up the courage!
Years ago I did the same job on AR-18s woofer and used the shim method and it worked fine and the ARs were a little similar as there was a single crossover component capacitor for the paper cone tweeter. The job needed patience and good sharp hobby knives and for the glue, I was a little stuck 20+ odd years ago and managed to scrounge some shoe repairers glue that worked like contact adhesive so it was tricky, to say the least. The glue suggested here being more flexible timewise would be best. For the shims, I used playing cards cut into strips. The preparation took hours of painstaking scraping and at the edge of the cone used a very light rub with fine sandpaper. To clean off the basket metal surface I used a very small amount of white spirit to remove any dust and finger grease from the surface. Good luck and be brave and careful and as Tony says, allow plenty of time for yourself and cure time for each stage.
At 34:46 in the video, you picked up the trim ring and started to prepare it for gluing by removing the foam residue, but you did this with the dust cap OPEN and near to it, and you're going to make a mess of foam residue. You should have cleaned up the trim ring near the beginning, why not as soon as you removed it, but certainly before your bench clean-up and well before opening the dust cap. Otherwise this is an excellent carefully explained video.
4 methods I am aware of: 1) by feel, 2) shims, 3) signal generator, 4) AA battery accross the speaker terminals. I typically do the feel method unless the tolerances are very tight, then I employ the battery accross the terminals. The battery method is very useful for foams that bond to the rear of the cone. I use shims if the dust cover has been pushed in by little fingers already and will be replaced. Foams are easy to do and after your first repair you will have acqukred a new skill and will move onto replacing tweeter ferrofluid and redoing xovers, speaker jacks for banana plugs.
Great vid Tony! FWIW I use a AA sized battery to lift and center the voice coil of refoams. At 1.5 volts you don't have to worry about burning out the voice coil and it will keep it perfectly centered. Only needs to connected for a short amount of time and can be disconnected once the glue gets tacky. Works every time!
He mentions doing exactly that at 44:18 - though I might try doing it on some Advents I'm re-foaming.
how do you connect it up?
@@Sunrayman123 sup dude late reply but you wanna put the AA battery so + is on + speaker terminal
What a great tutorial! Thx!
A tip that has worked for me (weigh in if you see any disadvantages to this): Refoaming a set of speakers - Infinity Reference Threes I got for free with both a ~4.5" and 8" in each with no foam left at all.. One woofer had a tear between the cone and spider (accordion pleated bit in the back behind the cone), so I decided to experiment on this one first. Isopropyl alcohol worked to soften the adhesive and dozens of cotton swabs and a lot of gentle rubbing rendered the remains of the foam gasket and adhesive gone with no damage to the cone. Using craft knives to scrape the same from the basket removed a lot of paint as it clearly wasn't very precisely made and isn't actually flat. Because the cones appeared to be plastic, I used the same trick of rubbing isopropyl on the visible adhesive around the dust cap until it was gone, leaving some alcohol residue in the gap. Then I carefully used a craft knife to prod around the gap until I found a spot it went through and slowly pried the dust cap up. Unfortunately, on this first attempt I went too deep with the knife and cut the voice coil wires - those things are tiny, if you haven't seen them before. I was surprised to find they passed through the cone as high up as they did, rather than being attached to the top edge of the "cylinder" of the voice coil at the base of the cone. However, this approach led me to successfully remove the dust cap without cutting on the more intact speaker!
Great video as usual Tony! Seems to me the "levelness" of the work surface is important for this work too. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Right then! Going to grab my supper and a mug of tea and chill out to some xraytonyb!!
I just know this is going to be good :)
Thanks Tony!
An old tech (he's in his eighties, bless him) showed me the second technique and like you he also used a sinusoidal signal. I've mostly used the first method though. For shims, I scavenged the defuser plastic sheeting out of a scrap led Display....which works quite well. Your right about the tolerances of those JBL's Tony....first time I restored a set of cabinets (LX 800's) the woofers were as scratchy as shite.
Thanks for posting and for showing that little gizmo at the end - it's looks like something I could really use man!
Great video. Very informative and well paced. Thank you.
This looks like my AR-90's. similar design. Nice video. Need to do this same repair on my AR's. thanks for the tips!
Tony. this is your best video yet!
Speaker impedance vs. frequency is seldom discussed. Thanks for this!
Also, is there a particular advantage of 16-Ohm speakers vs 8-ohm?
Hi as i have said before you are a man of many talents in my younger days I used to run a mobile disco and if a speaker went faulty i used to send them to a company called baker loudspeakers which offered a reckoning service
Thanks for this very interesting and well done video. This was extremely informative and the very best type of RUclips that I like to see as I learned something new and most all your videos are presented in a very pleasant and well produced manner.
The most important thing is confidence which I'm working up to.
I can vouch for the Aleene's Quick Dry Tacky Glue. I researched it for 2 days and that's what was most recommended.
I think they are Infinity drivers.And I use cotton balls to hold the cone up, away from the rim.
Nice repair Tony! I've run into your channel from time to time and then saw this video. Two woofers, foam surrounds, well, I can safely rule out ADS as they used buttyl rubber for the surrounds, at least on some speakers anyway.
I have a pair of L810 bookshelves myself, series 1 so 6 Ohm nominal @ 20-100W nominal. They are powered by a modest NAD 7240PE receiver for a dynamic and punchy sound. the ONLY thing I dislike about them is the spring clips but thankfully you can get good spring clip pins for your speaker cables these days.
Thanks for sharing this great video!
also wiggling the speaker and grinding the voice coil is impossible to not do, all you can do is try and if it dont' work why then... strap c4 to it and blow it to smitherines and be happy that you won anyway
This was a great video and nicely presented. The only drawback for me would be the look of the glue. I wished there was a way to make it look neater so you could show off your speakers like we did when they were new.
If you use alieens tacky glue, just after it set up you can use a few qtips and water to clean off the cone or surround. Go easy with the water. Result will look very clean. Like new.
Was going to say Infinity Kappa 9's but I think they had more than four mounting screws and weren't paper cones.
Thanks nice information!
got a Kenwood 10 I'm about to do.. should be type 2.. lots of play, ordered the foam special, got 2 -just need 1 I hope..
Nice video, accurate as always, Tony! I wonder, would it be easier to get 4 new 4-ohms 10 inch woofers if there was something unrepairable with one or more of the originals?
Thank you.
Nice job and very interesting video, second method very interesting. These speakers are really impressive and I understand that you want to keep them on top. I've not seen the total measurements because you should need another video to make them (adding mass for Qfactors...). It's clearly difficult to see what can be made with these, as you can find different solutions, phasis controlled speakers Revox style, semi push pulls like Kef, or simpler associations like Canterbury with compression horn. I also remember Cabasse Etna or Stromboli bass enclosure with opposite coupling directions, Quad bass complements for their electrostatics ESL 63 and even some special high gain large range for tube electronics made for theatre in the 60's by JBL... Anyway, the program and solution you use can be found in many different makes, as far as you have a sound card, but is interesting as it seems the simplest and easiest way to get measurements done (no resistors soldering...).
I guess you're next video will proove as instructing and interesting, and I can't hold my breath waiting for the next episode.
Hi. Why didnt you glued the new surround under the cone
Trying th=his for the first time on woofers. WhWill use availaboe tones off the internet - youtube etc through my receiver. what frequency is best for 10 and 12 inch sub woofers?
does applying too much glue on the dusk cap and also extra glue on the spider where the cone is affect overall sound quality?
I'm confused about removing the cone. Why do it if it's not damaged? I replaced the surrounds in my JBL L60T's and didn't need to adjust anything. The cone easily stayed in it's original position. I was prepared to adjust it but it simply wasn't required. 👍
My dad has a pair of Rogers LS8a speakers, but the surround has deteriorated (more like powderised). It appears I will have to do a DIY repair to refoam the surround of 4 drivers (which are 6.5 inches / 165 mm each). Can I seek guidance on:
1) where I can buy good quality surround foam and the glue for the repair work;
2) the type or material of the surround I should buy for these speakers (I believe it's the foam type instead of the rubber type). The concern is if I use the wrong type it may affect the sound of the speakers; and
3) I believe do not need to refoam the tweeters (sorry if this is a naive question), hence seeking confirmation on this.
Thank you in advance or any guidance provided.
Best regards
Nice 👌
I have the same 16 ohm speakers in a Realistic T100 set containing 4 of these speakers with severe foam rot, would rubber surrounds work better, last longer?
Mine are the 8" version.
I would love to know where you can get a pair of "good quality" surrounds for just a few dollars. Please enlighten us.
Simply speakers .com
... the wheels are turning, but the hamster is dead. - classic!
it doesn't make sense to use shims, the spider keeps the voice coil centered. the shims would just be pushing against the spider and when you remove the shims if the voice coil is not perfectly centered the spider will try to re-center it to it's original position that ma cause a little tension into the cone and surrounds.
38:10 yesss! I know that feeling..
Bella sounds like my ex wife! LMAO!
I would still remove the degraded/barely bonded foam off the back, in order to avoid debris splatter later ..
Hi Tony. I'm going to get struck by lightning from my passed grandmother, but she snored like your dog or was that the other way around ? Two woofers, your Klipsch speakers ?? Saw that on the Eico rebuild and rattled my little Bluetooth speakers. Thanks for this piece. Would love to see you do a whole speaker rebuild including the crossovers and if you're interested have a set of KLH 5 that would volunteer. Love my 5's because they have the cloth surrounds and do quite well in aging. Is only problem is the crossover caps drying out and board tarnishing causing ground failures.
Thanks Tony! Nice job! I guess that some skin flakes on the voice coil won't hurt anything?
What if you reconed a speaker using method 2 and the voice coil was not rubbing, but was still a little crooked - would that affect the sound?
Difficult to say. If it's out of line then the magnetic forces will be out of line and you may get sideways deflection on loud sounds which could encourage rubbing.
If it were me I would re center the voice coil even though its not rubbing.
Sorry if I missed it in your video but what's the reason you shimmed the gap? To prevent from accidentally adjusting the gap while gluing the surround? I haven't seen anyone else do that.
Nevermind, I found the answer at 41:00. Thanks for your video!
You can use puncher outfit glue over the foam before it starts to split .
This glue turns the foam in to RUBBER and stey like that for good , ive done it .
Your puppy is a loud snorer for as small as she is :) Are you working on a pair of EPI speakers I have a pair with dual woofers, just can't remember the model off the top of my head.
I hate those foam surrounds. I have to do my Advents every 10 years. Not a hard job, just tedious. Thank goodness the Advents don’t need shimming.
ever clear like 190 proof from liqueur store would that not work or acetone
What speakers are those from?
What was that you're overwhelmed I'm the one that's overwhelmed I've been dabbling since I was about 14 or 15 first for two-way radios and CBS now I got to set up Radio Shack Mach 2 so I want to refund dude you got me overwhelmed and I'm scared to death to even try it thanks for the video
I am guessing these are from the Optimus T200
Well done, as usual. I have, however, a cathedral style field-coil speaker from 1926 that has a ripped cone. The cone will probably crumble if I try to repair it with rubber cement so the trick for me now is to replace it, but it's no standard cone. It's a field-coil cone with a steep angle that ends with a tiny (by today's standards) speaker coil, behind which is a massive electromagnet. Assuming I can fix the electromagnet (some mounting parts are missing) I will then attempt to replace the cone, but how does one do this, exactly? No speaker repair companies sell cones for this type speaker, or do they? Can they be custom made without costing a fortune?
Firstly do try to repair the original cone. Glue very thin paper over the tears. If this fails you can experiment with making a new cone. Cut and glue sheets of paper to make a cone and get the sizes of inner and outer diameters then trim them to fit the length. I have done this and after afew bad results I got it. Be patient and it's possible.
@@jonka1 Thanks, I'll give it a try. If I end up replacing the cone, what kind of paper are speaker cones made of? Is it possible to turn a form on a lathe, then press a sheet of paper onto the form?
@@sincerelyyours7538
I used standard printer paper to make cones. I made two stiff wire rings as guides for the diameters and after a few attempts the results were good. They don't have to look pretty as long as they are well glued to the voice coil. Turning a former sounds like a good idea
How do you measure for the surround? I have not found any consistent answers on that one...
The video was really good, thanks Tony!
Cheers,
Eddy_D Good question - that would be interesting! I have a Bose 50W box type Solo TV sound system that has amazing surround sound. I have it facing crossways in a corner of the room and the sound seems to come from everywhere. A dog can bark in a movie and sound like it is coming from outside. I can move the TV to the other side of the room and the sound sounds like it is coming from the TV.
I thought that it was impossible for it to work like that and actually planned on sending it back when I ordered it. I was just curious. But after hearing it, I kept it!
Surrounds have 4 major dimensions: inner diameter, cone diameter (inner roll), outer roll diameter, and outer diameter.
Nice job Tony. Steady hand needed for this stuff!
Dynaco A-50?
Wouldn't you need to run this speaker at full-volume to test for no voice coil-rubbing throughout the cone's range?
Not at full power, which is hard to do.I usually just play them before i mount them, holding them at different angles.
It's a guitar speaker ?
Al has a low heat capacity soo r u saying that helps transfer heat, right!?!?
👍👍👍😁
👍
❤️🐶😂❤️😍😂🐶❤️😍😂
After the joke the only thing left for the puppy was to sleep even kkkkk
You are only human Tony.
Cerwin Vega?
Hmm looks like p.v.a wood glue.
I really want to guess!!
But it’s not really a guess lol
Dynaco/SEA A50?
Not that type of dust covers. I do not know American loudspeakers too well, but these two woofers match the Bose or Celestion design.
Realistic Optimus T-100
T-100 from Radio shack :)
Optimus has paper cone. Not textile.
The T-100’’ were wired parallel also and yes they were paper ....I know these are textile but I thought you might be using them as replacement speakers in the T-100’s ....lol excellent video and you did an awesome job on the woofers as well . Keep em coming !
Bose 601
Surround? Never heard of that terminology. I've always heard it referred as the suspension. Is that a regional thing?
Oh, so it is a suspension, but the top one is called the surround. Got it.
Qts=1.32!!!! Oh boy, oh boy…
Vintage Celestions? Bozak?
Oh looks like a low quality driver from something like a Realistic Nova-4.
.
I tell you what I sure would never let you reform none of my speakers you are very messy at it plus you do steps you don't have to do I reform speakers and I never cut the center out of my cones
Then why are you watching this if you are already an expert? Sounds like you need to make your own video and show us all how it’s done.
Too much talk, it's boring the amount unneeded talk in this video, the guys doesn't shut up. The video could be half the time and have the same information