Hello Mark. I stumbled across this video and recognized you from 2009 May as our lead guide up Denali. I’ve been thinking about going again in 2024. I enjoyed your video and wanted to say thanks again for a great trip in 2009 - one never to be forgotten.
Great video! I climbed Denali in 96 and was so excited to study, buy, and practice with all the gear before I went. But man - managing all the gear at altitude really can be overwhelming on the mountain! From the time you get out of your bag until you clip into the rope is a lifetime every morning. Also, my sleeping pad popped a leak at high camp. 2 nights at 17k pretty much on the snow was awful!! But it was all worth it.
Those Patagonia expedition socks are the best heavy socks ever made. They don't stretch out and lose their shape. They keep their loft and cushioning for a long time. Sad that they are no longer available.
The "why" is an important concept. Individual products come and go but if you understand the concepts you can always create a set of clothing/gear that will get the job done.
I'm not a mountaineer but during covid, I ended up wearing a mask outside one really cold day and noticed that my sunglasses didn't fog, and it kept my face warm and warmed the air I was breathing. It worked so well that I'll choose a mask over a buff or balaclava to shovel snow. (They are the soft N95's that come flat- the more firm ones are thicker and can be problematic, but I also have a tiny face). I'm not talking about surgical masks that allow leaking air out the sides. I've seen a video of someone attempting everest sleeping / relaxing with one to warm and moisten the air, but that doesn't mean it works well or at all altitudes, but I am really curious to know if it would work. Of course people like to complain that it's hard to breathe through those, but you get used to it.
I use almost the same pieces, love them, just want it to add that for the showcased use, if you chose the same gear, you need to size up: the micro puff, the houdini, and the grade vii.
Thanks for posting this. Definitely an invaluable gauge on the kinds of basic gear to invest in. Do some climbers bring noise-canceling earbuds in addition to earplugs to sleep well?
Excellent gear tutorial! What can you recommend for an individual that is constantly throwing extreme amounts of vapor (sweat) while hiking uphill? In winter, I will do my mountain workouts wearing just a base layer on my upper body (high 20s - low 30s F) and will still wet it out after a couple of hours (I do try to keep my hr in Z2 per Uphill Athlete training recommendations). I will be climbing Rainier this summer and most of what you discuss seems to be directly relatable. Thanks again for a great video.
Some folks just run hot in that way, if your one of those folks its almost impossible to stop when your working hard so be ready to manage it when you stop. For sure carry an extra base layer (or two!) to change into when you get to camp etc so the first can be drying and so you dont get hypothermic. I've actually seen a wet baselayer freeze directly to a persons chest before. The issue isnt as much having wet baselayers but more getting cold once you stop. You will also want to make especially sure all your insulation is as breathable as possible. Patagonia Capilene Air Crew is very breathable as a warm base layer but also layers like the Nano Air help manage moisture a good bit.
@@howardk4016 I’m in the same boat, this winter I will test out changing layers mid hike, and might splurge on a Patagonia airshed pro as a light base/ mid layer
If I can add some advice here: I find the most important thing for me is to strip layers early. If I'm starting up a sleep climb, I'll strip a layer or two right before starting with the knowledge that I'd rather be a little chilly than get even sweatier or get my warm layers wet on the move. Layers go on immediately when stopping before I get too cold.
What pot/pan set do you recommend for an independent expedition for 2 people? We were thinking a 5L aluminum pot for ice, but pot pan recs? We have a MSR Whisperlite stove
Do you still prefer the triple boot to the double? I'm in the same dilema - the 8oz of extra weight per foot for most of the trip is a bit of a setback IMO - I have the Scarpa 8000HDs and Boreal G1 Lites with Intuition Logan liners and unsure which one I'd use for 2025.
Hi Scott, The Grade VII is sized to be worn over layers. For example, I wear medium in all Patagonia and that includes a medium in my grade VII. Cheers. Steve House
Im new to mountaineering, and i plan on doing Denali in about 5 years. I figure if i get all the gear i need for Denali that should cover me for the summits i plan to do leading up to that correct?
That's not correct really. The clothing and gear for Denali is specific to high and cold mountains. Most of this would be overkill for anything in the lower-48, even in winter conditions. Start simple, and build your kit slowly. The more experience you gain the better decisions you'll be able to make about what equipment you need and (importantly) don't need.
@@UphillAthlete good to know thanks for the advice. I already do a lot of backpacking, so i imagine (other than the technical gear) i could probably get away with what i already have for my first couple summits
The ones in the video are quite minimalist down socks from Goosefeetgear. They also make a shell bootie to wear over them. I also quite like the camp booties from 40below if you're looking for something not too bulky.
I think the G2 is a great boots for a June trip but I still bring 40 Below overboots on the West Buttress for summit day just in case. You can still get quite cold summit conditions in late June and I think its cheap insurance.
Depends a bit on group size and your cooking situation but my favorites are MHW Trango 3 and some of the Hillebergs like the Keron GT and Nammatj GT. The Hillebergs are harder to fit into small camp spots if your moving into an pre-existing walled spot but the vestibules are really nice for storm cooking if you ventilate well.
With modern boots and socks VBLs have fallen out of favor it seems. The Intuition/palau type liners that don't absorb moisture make them less helpful than they were historically. That's said if you're a fan of them and they've worked well for you in the past in arctic type terrain then absolutely have at it. The biggest issues I've seen with them in the field come from folks who don't really understand how to use them and decide to try them out at the last minute. Google Andy Kirkpatrick or Andrew Skurka as they have both written some helpful bits on VBLs if your interested. (VBLs are very popular if you're named Andy apparently)
you Take gear not bring gear. annoying to hear people misuse Take and Bring. Its gear I take on an expedition not gear I bring on an expedition. saying that it was a good video on the gear and very informative
Hello Mark. I stumbled across this video and recognized you from 2009 May as our lead guide up Denali. I’ve been thinking about going again in 2024. I enjoyed your video and wanted to say thanks again for a great trip in 2009 - one never to be forgotten.
David. Get in touch if we can help you train for your next attempt!
Maybe you're on the mountain right now? About to fly off the glacier and you'll respond to this comment in a week with news of a successful summit?
Great video! I climbed Denali in 96 and was so excited to study, buy, and practice with all the gear before I went. But man - managing all the gear at altitude really can be overwhelming on the mountain! From the time you get out of your bag until you clip into the rope is a lifetime every morning. Also, my sleeping pad popped a leak at high camp. 2 nights at 17k pretty much on the snow was awful!! But it was all worth it.
One of the best gear load-out videos I've ever seen. Nice work!
I'll be watching this a lot of times. I have no clue about extreme cold weather gear. Very important information. Thank you!
Really appreciate the depth you go into and time you spent explaining the what, why and also the why not. Lots of things to think about.
Great overview. Well done and an obvious professional mountaineer. Organization and rational was excellent
4:07 "Which are somewhat expensive" - $1,200? Yep, checks out! PS: Great video! Thank you, Mark!
This is great! Good info. Thanks for creating this.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much! So impressed with your attention to detail. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I learned a lot.
Those Patagonia expedition socks are the best heavy socks ever made. They don't stretch out and lose their shape. They keep their loft and cushioning for a long time. Sad that they are no longer available.
Truly interesting video, particularly the lower body clothing segment, and area that most seem to regard as an afterthought.
Good video. Will be there in June, so gonna make some changes to how my layers work right now. Cool stuff!
Nice gear discussion. Practicing with crampons gloves and hardshell pants at home is a layup that will speed ur summit. Nice travel trailer :).
Great video, enjoyed the "Why" for each product.
The "why" is an important concept. Individual products come and go but if you understand the concepts you can always create a set of clothing/gear that will get the job done.
Thanks for doing this! Very helpful!
Wow, this is amazing!
Great suggestions! Thank you!
Thanks a lot for the video, it was very helpful
You're welcome. Glad it was helpful.
I'm not a mountaineer but during covid, I ended up wearing a mask outside one really cold day and noticed that my sunglasses didn't fog, and it kept my face warm and warmed the air I was breathing. It worked so well that I'll choose a mask over a buff or balaclava to shovel snow. (They are the soft N95's that come flat- the more firm ones are thicker and can be problematic, but I also have a tiny face). I'm not talking about surgical masks that allow leaking air out the sides. I've seen a video of someone attempting everest sleeping / relaxing with one to warm and moisten the air, but that doesn't mean it works well or at all altitudes, but I am really curious to know if it would work. Of course people like to complain that it's hard to breathe through those, but you get used to it.
What a video, thank you
Great video Mark! Very informative!
Thank you kindly!
Superb video. Thanks for sharing your recommendations, they are very useful.
I use almost the same pieces, love them, just want it to add that for the showcased use, if you chose the same gear, you need to size up: the micro puff, the houdini, and the grade vii.
Cool... thanks, greetings from chile ✌️
Thanks for posting this. Definitely an invaluable gauge on the kinds of basic gear to invest in.
Do some climbers bring noise-canceling earbuds in addition to earplugs to sleep well?
Excellent gear tutorial! What can you recommend for an individual that is constantly throwing extreme amounts of vapor (sweat) while hiking uphill? In winter, I will do my mountain workouts wearing just a base layer on my upper body (high 20s - low 30s F) and will still wet it out after a couple of hours (I do try to keep my hr in Z2 per Uphill Athlete training recommendations). I will be climbing Rainier this summer and most of what you discuss seems to be directly relatable. Thanks again for a great video.
Some folks just run hot in that way, if your one of those folks its almost impossible to stop when your working hard so be ready to manage it when you stop. For sure carry an extra base layer (or two!) to change into when you get to camp etc so the first can be drying and so you dont get hypothermic. I've actually seen a wet baselayer freeze directly to a persons chest before. The issue isnt as much having wet baselayers but more getting cold once you stop. You will also want to make especially sure all your insulation is as breathable as possible. Patagonia Capilene Air Crew is very breathable as a warm base layer but also layers like the Nano Air help manage moisture a good bit.
@@UphillAthlete Thank you for the advice - much appreciated!
@@howardk4016 I’m in the same boat, this winter I will test out changing layers mid hike, and might splurge on a Patagonia airshed pro as a light base/ mid layer
If I can add some advice here: I find the most important thing for me is to strip layers early. If I'm starting up a sleep climb, I'll strip a layer or two right before starting with the knowledge that I'd rather be a little chilly than get even sweatier or get my warm layers wet on the move. Layers go on immediately when stopping before I get too cold.
I have something called a bump cap. It’s a hard hat/helmet insert for baseball caps. Have you looked into/tried those and/or what are your thoughts
What pot/pan set do you recommend for an independent expedition for 2 people? We were thinking a 5L aluminum pot for ice, but pot pan recs? We have a MSR Whisperlite stove
Do you still prefer the triple boot to the double? I'm in the same dilema - the 8oz of extra weight per foot for most of the trip is a bit of a setback IMO - I have the Scarpa 8000HDs and Boreal G1 Lites with Intuition Logan liners and unsure which one I'd use for 2025.
This is excellent and has been very helpful. Regarding the stuff sacks, what liter sizes are you considering XL/large/medium/small?
The sizes of the stuff sacks should fit the contents they're meant to hold. Don't over-think it too much :).
Any opinion on western mountaineering bags with micro fiber vs gore wind stopper? Looking at a puma specifically.
Great Video! What size is your Grade VII parka? Did you size up, or has Patagonia built some extra room into the cut of the garment?
Hi Scott, The Grade VII is sized to be worn over layers. For example, I wear medium in all Patagonia and that includes a medium in my grade VII. Cheers. Steve House
Would be interesting to have an estimated total cost of all these items. I suppose that if you need to ask...then you can't afford them.
Im new to mountaineering, and i plan on doing Denali in about 5 years. I figure if i get all the gear i need for Denali that should cover me for the summits i plan to do leading up to that correct?
That's not correct really. The clothing and gear for Denali is specific to high and cold mountains. Most of this would be overkill for anything in the lower-48, even in winter conditions. Start simple, and build your kit slowly. The more experience you gain the better decisions you'll be able to make about what equipment you need and (importantly) don't need.
@@UphillAthlete good to know thanks for the advice. I already do a lot of backpacking, so i imagine (other than the technical gear) i could probably get away with what i already have for my first couple summits
Hi. Can I ask you what brand of camp booties you use? Thank you.
The ones in the video are quite minimalist down socks from Goosefeetgear. They also make a shell bootie to wear over them. I also quite like the camp booties from 40below if you're looking for something not too bulky.
i have G2 wonder how this boot would be for sometime in June
I think the G2 is a great boots for a June trip but I still bring 40 Below overboots on the West Buttress for summit day just in case. You can still get quite cold summit conditions in late June and I think its cheap insurance.
@@smithrocker1 thank you for the post my hope is Cassin 2022 solo from the base to summit
@@smithrocker1 Do you have any experience with the OR x gaiters? paired with a G2 would that be sufficient for Denali?
Any recommendations for tents?
A great place for questions like this is here: uphillathlete.com/forums/forum/mountaineering/
Depends a bit on group size and your cooking situation but my favorites are MHW Trango 3 and some of the Hillebergs like the Keron GT and Nammatj GT. The Hillebergs are harder to fit into small camp spots if your moving into an pre-existing walled spot but the vestibules are really nice for storm cooking if you ventilate well.
@@smithrocker1 thank you very much 🙏🏿
VBL's for the feet?
With modern boots and socks VBLs have fallen out of favor it seems. The Intuition/palau type liners that don't absorb moisture make them less helpful than they were historically. That's said if you're a fan of them and they've worked well for you in the past in arctic type terrain then absolutely have at it. The biggest issues I've seen with them in the field come from folks who don't really understand how to use them and decide to try them out at the last minute. Google Andy Kirkpatrick or Andrew Skurka as they have both written some helpful bits on VBLs if your interested. (VBLs are very popular if you're named Andy apparently)
You don't present any alternatives for those of us who boycott Patagucci.
you Take gear not bring gear. annoying to hear people misuse Take and Bring. Its gear I take on an expedition not gear I bring on an expedition. saying that it was a good video on the gear and very informative
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