I have used soil augers to collect soil samples in the desert for years. When digging a hole in areas where the soil is powdery the soil always drops to the bottom of the hole when you lift the auger. However if you add a small amount of water to the hole you make a very thick mud and the soil will adhere to the auger and so you will be able to lift the soil when you lift the auger out of the hole.
I remember in the beginning how clueless you were, and me along with you, and unprepared quite frankly. We've all seen you grow, and this project is gaining steam. What a crazy thing to undertake, I love it.
Put a fabric ( plastic) on the fence to capture fog at night and the morning and create a little shade, wind protection.... since you already did most of the work.
@twofathoms1 west coast of south America. They couldn't figure out why trees would grow without rain until they discovered that the ocean fog would be pushed up the mountain slopes and get captured in the trees. They put up large screens to captured enough moisture to grow all kinds of crops. .... 80+ years ago
Maybe a good idea would be before you start your project Post to q&a on your RUclips channel and ask people the best way to do something like this. Because it really doesn't do any good if you're already in the middle of something when all these amazing people have all these wonderful ideas. Who could have thought about adding water to a hole or running a tractor all the other great things that folks have come up with. Also someone posted something about needing a higher fence so that you can keep mule deer out of the plants. Just a thought.
@@corbinharrell8754 Elk are native to Texas, similar to the Desert Bighorn Sheep, hunting led to the extirpation of the Elk. Elk began to be reintroduced to Texas in the 1920's. They were a game species in Texas till 1997 when they were declared an exotic. Even if they are "considered to be non native", Elk are just as native as the Desert Bighorn Sheep are to the Tans-Pecos region of Texas. You can see a lot of them in West Texas mtn ranges.
@@davidruiz2128- I was a little shocked to see a beaver near the campground lagoon in Big Bend National Park. I believe one of the campground hosts told me that they partially flood the campground to keep the plants and grass alive.
I use a big wet dry vacuum to pull loose material out of holes. 2” hose and several straight extensions. Loosen with auger, vacuum spoils out. Be amazed at how fast
In the loose caliche I drive the T-post with an electric demolition hammer, Extreme Power, and a bit off of Amazon. I always knock the blade off of the T-post and cut a point on them with a grinder. Where it is mostly rock, every hole has to be drilled. I prefer the Pionjar with a 1 7/8” bit. I am definitely going to try the vacuum cleaner idea on the pulling post holes. It might be faster than a tin can.
the mule deer can jump that fence with ZERO issues - you would need more like 8 feet+ (ive been through this) cows are easy to keep out tho ill be curious if the electric does anything to keep the deer out - keep at it - very interesting!
I was going to work one day and seen a deer so I slowed down. He was next to a metal factory called Padgett. They had a problem with scrappers stealing their metal so they put up an 8 ft block wall around their factory. The deer ran up and jumped over that fence with no problem. Super cool and blew my mind
elk and deer are pretty dumb. he can finish his fence plan then zip tie dowls to the top of each post and just use visible mesh net (zip tied to the dowels) to extend the height of the fence. Cheap and works where I live on elk and deer but not as pretty as other options.
He’s going to find out the hard way, he’s not going to be able to grow a forest.. I live in SW Texas. Without water every week, from May to October nothing will grow but scrub.
At your corners, put in extra t posts extending each direction. Then attach tension wires to the top of the corner post and bottoms of the anchor posts. Tighten up the wire and the fence corners will stay secure.
The deer can clear an 8’ high fence when they want to. We will tie pieces of white fabric about every ten feet to the electric fence wire so the deer will see it and not rip it out every other day. We have had some luck setting to lines of electric fence about 5 to 7 feet apart and two to three wires on each fence line. They will still take it out every once in a while. Illinois white tails do get a little bigger than what you have down there.
Hi Shaun. For your most valuable tree saplings please enclose them with wire cages the first few years. There are easy to make cylindrical ones made with whatever wire you have available. Secure them with two metal posts sunk in the ground so they are not knocked over. Also plant tons of native grass seed all over the areas away from your seedlings. With rain these will provide grazing for deer and keep the pressure away from the tree saplings. A dog is also a great idea as long as it’s safe from rattlesnakes. For native seeds, The wildflower and wild grass mixes from the seed company in Fredericksburg, Texas is a good starting point. This can get very expensive very fast so they might be able to give you a less expensive local source specializing in bulk seed for the Trans-Pecos area. Best Wishes From David in Houston.
Yes! Florida here: I'm working with 'panels' today actually...(I'm an old artist...not a rancher.) Panels are often better because you can achieve 'demensional strength' by laying them in an "S" formation. The primary advantage is that the shape adds strength, not the posts...the posts could be just a pile of earth/rocks....not a typical iron post. The "S" shape will also gather biology ( twigs, seeds etc ) that a 'line' will not....for example in a 'wash' it will be strong enough to stand up similar to a 'snowfence'....you'll experience a build of debris on the opposite side. This 'bio-holding' will be deep enough to hold enough moisture that ( with luck) it will root some 'brush' Good luck!!!
indeed : use water to moisten the sand so it sticks to the drill. After the hole is made you can use the 'mud' to fill the hole again to fix the post and the soil is also a but humid so it can help the plants anyway.
Shaun hopefully you read these. I've been watching your channel a lot, as I am getting older and looking for a cheap, sustainable way to live happily ever after. I really like what you're doing, and plan on doing something similar when the time comes. I have 2 videos that I really think you should see if you haven't already. They are both by a guy named Andrew Millison (sorry not trying to promote another RUclipsr, but I think you'll find these 2 videos extremely useful). The first one is called "How the UN is Holding Back the Sahara Desert" and it talks about how they are reclaiming lands from the desert to farm on. It shows you generational knowledge of how to do so. The even make terraces like yours, except they stack them in a way that promotes growth. They also have some other methods that help turn over dried, sun baked earth back into usable soil that you should be doing. The other is "How to Recycle Waste Water using Plants" and it shows you the steps to create a biome system, that waters and grows your plants, while also cleaning toxins from the water that can then be reused. The method will probably have to be adapted for your desert environment, but I think it might give you some good tips. Anyway, love the content. Wish you nothing but the best of everything!!!
For your composting bucket you should consider bokashi to ferment it. It will prevent it from getting ripe, buggy, and will help it break down in your ground a lot more efficient. Keep on plugging away!
To ensure that the trees survive after being planted in your desert, it would be good to have 3 jugs of water surround each tree with a 2’ long wool wick extending from the bottom of each jug through a tiny hole and the other end of the wick in contact with the roots of the tree. This would ensure there is sufficient water for the tree. It may last a year. Hopefully, by then the roots will be in contact with the water table.
Thanks for the video Shaun ! I’ve drilled a lot of holes with one of those one-man augers. The trick is not to put any down pressure on it. If anything I will often take enough weight off the auger to keep it spinning as fast as it can go. This is the secret to dislodging rocks, getting through hard pan and clay. The other thing is to keep the digging tooth reasonably sharp. The hard faced teeth from Ardisam/Earthquake are the best I’ve found. I dug a bunch of 5’ deep holes with extension shafts once. I actually dug more than the guy with a tractor mounted auger because I could get into position quicker.
Fun fact, shocking the ground has been proven to stimulate the growth of (at least some) fungi so the fence may help the soil improve by stimulating the fungi
This is so cool! Greening the desert project American back country style! Ever since I discovered Geoff Lawton and dove head first into the permaculture world I’ve been obsessed with greening the desert projects! Thank you for sharing your process and adventures I watch all your videos all the way through to the end, you’re sooo fascinating and inspiring! Never stop what your doing and I don’t just “believe” you’ll make a forest, I know you WILL and I can’t wait to continue on this adventure with you!!!
I feel your pain. Here in Alamogordo, NM, I need my six foot steel pointed bars to break through rocks & boulders in virgin earth in the foothills of the Sacramento mntns. When the house base pad was done the contractors pulled out three boulders that were between 6 feet & eight feet long by four feet wide. They are still on site.
I love the production of the vid! Your kids animations are fun, the elk and dear placement :) overall thumbs up on the progress of entertainment value!!
The auger only needs to break the ground, then you can drive the t post in without pulling out any silt, unless you plan to concrete... I wouldn't, just drive in the t posts
I love how the comments can give you so many tips and pointers. Makes learning on the go so much easier when everyone can see what you’re doing right/wrong
In South Africa we use a heavy duty pipe which slides over the steelpost, with a piece of railway track welded across the top to give it weight, 2 handles on the side. It drives yr post through most rocky formations.
I had a problem with dry soil and not being able to drive the ground rods very deep due to bedrock. I still wired the ground to the rods but also attached the ground to the wire fence. Every t-post then became a ground rod. Worked like a charm.
I run a hot and ground wire system on some paddocks (fields) the animals press between the hot and ground wires and get a shock. It is far more reliable and easier than setting up and earth ground.
The fence will not work to keep deer out but another member suggested a Dog and i think thats your best bet they would even keep the deer away. You just need to make sure you get a dog that can handle multiple Coyotes.
@@giovannifoulmouth7205 either of those would work there are others as well. I think if you started it there as a puppy it would acclimate to the heat.
Because of the dryness of your site, it is crucial that you use multiple wires and alternate hot wires and grounded wires. There isn't enough conductivity in the dry soil to act as the electrical ground. Thus the grounded wires are needed for the electric fence to be effective. Don't skimp on your charger! Instead of polywire you should use 12.5 gauge or 14 gauge high tensile wire. Either one should be cheaper than the polywire. The 12.5 is stiffer and stronger but you'd probably need to reinforce your corners to pull it straight. Make your life easy and spring for a spinning jenny, they are super helpful for installing wire and crucial for taking it up again for reuse. Actually, several of your neighbors probably already own one. Btw, you can reinforce your corners if needed with wires running out to earth anchors.
Awwwwww. I saw my name in the credits! Wasn’t expecting that. I’m enrolled in Master Gardener program here in Tucson (University of AZ program) and I’ve recommended your channel to instructors and students! Hopefully I can be of help to your efforts.
instead of a fence, have you thought about high tunnels??? A good 10x20 feet high tunnel goes for about $160. If you put them end to end, it is a perfect fence and it keeps the moisture in. After a couple of years, you can take them down and build them in a different location. When plants are young, they are sensitive.
That digger is an arm breaker, traded mine for a tractor and implement, still difficult but not so sketchy. Electric will keep the cows out but not hogs etc…Test the fence by pissing on it😊.
💖💖🐮Love the sassy cow clap backs! SimpliSafe don't seem to have "Core Monitoring " as an option in UK but had a good look around and seems like a good set up. Keep on going because the progress is starting to really show now
Shaun, i like what you are doing! i have a suggestion regarding the dry soil that slips off the shovel and makes it hard to get up with the posthole digger. i know water is scarce, but maybe it's worth it. try adding some water as you did a hole by hand or machine. when the soil/sand gets wet it may make getting it out much easier.
New studies about the beneficial effects that beavers have on raising the water table, improving deserts, and altogether improving dry, arid soil is amazing. We need to respect beavers as nature’s helper to improve deserts. Soon, they are going to be used to help bring back drinking water in Las Vegas which was built upon a desert and greatly needs more drinking water.
You may want to relocate one of the grounding rods to be directly below one of your plant irrigation drips and you may want to add additional grounding rods that are bigger and go deeper in the soil. Just like for the plants, the soil for the electric fence grounding rods should have good moisture retention. Dry, desert sand has high resistivity and your soil probably has silicon dioxide which is a good insulator. You may want to consider adding palm fronds (barasti fence) in between the fence posts to prevent animals from entering. As a bonus it might provide a bit of shade for the south and east/west sides.
I’ve been doing a smaller project like this in the Texas Hill Country for years. If you want my time tested free advice. 1. High fence in a small area about 1 acre. Shape the earth in that area with swales etc… Focus ALL your plantings in this area using as a nucleus for species cutting, seeds and over all feedback loop. ANYTHING YOU PLANT OUTSIDE OF THIS WILL NOT SURVIVE DUE TO ANIMAL PRESSURE. Please trust me on this one. 2. Go ahead and do your large scale earth works outside of your fenced in nucleus so that you begin to change the overall infiltration. 3. The only thing I would TRY or experiment planting outside of the fenced nucleus is desert trees and shrubs that have thorns. Acacias, Huisache, cow tongue opuntia etc. But be prepared for those to struggle or not establish. 3. When putting in fence… use a rock bar when you post hole dig, and a hammer drill with a 7/8 rock bit if needed. When putting in t posts, use them same large hammer drill with a 7/8 rock bit to pre drill then pour water in the hole before you hammer the t posts in. 4. High fence is beyond the most important thing in your project. Without it the work will seem to go into the abyss…. I’ve tried every other hack I could find online and unfortunately it just is what it is.
Maybe you can use that auger to aerate the soil (dige a series of holes and fill them back with loose material to improve water absorption in that spot
Really cool to watch you fence off your start to success. After watching months of you moving dirt and making good soil I’m super excited for you. Keep up the great work.
I have binge watched most all of your videos and loved them. I have a crazy idea what about hair salons collecting hair for your mulch it would make valuable compost and it would otherwise go to the dump .... as well as coffee grounds from coffee shops, here in Ontario there are tons of Tim Hortons coffee shops they must throw out tonnes!
8'- 2x4 for spacing or 10' pvc pipe. Also you can get much longer t-posts. Your t post driver should also be able to pound chain link fence corenerposts, 1-5/8" diameter. The is a cup that matches the 1-5/8" pipe. Military uses rolls of razor wire, which come up at govt. auctions from time to time. Cattle Ranchers have been building gabion blocks or teepees wighted with rocks for fence corners since forever. Thanks for the video.
I really enjoy watching how your project is growing. I suggest you “number” the videos you put up on YT. I find it hard to find each video in order that you are posting. 👍👍👍👍
@Shaun- I love your videos and project. Something I would be especially concerned about the Deer/Antelope. They will jump the fence! I've had to deal with them before in Eastern WA. I recommend using metal "Hog Wire panels, for the lower 1st 4 feet, they are inexpensive and much stronger. Next then extend the "T" posts up another 4-5 feet. We had 5-6 feet fences which the deer had no issues jumping over. It's easy to raise the "T" posts, I used cheap 3/4" x 8' electrical conduit and "zip" tied them to the "T" posts (Bailing wire is good also...) and add the additional wire mesh (not "Hog Wire") to the raised section. I would try for 7 to 8 feet of height I would also recommend using bailing wire "guy wires" every 4 to 5 posts to provide extra protection from the fence getting knocked over. I would tie a knot in the middle of the "Guy Wires" and attach surveyor's tie tape above the knots so no one trips over them. Everything is still able to pass electrical current, and will prevent other smaller varmints from breaking through and The hog wire is much stronger. All the best, Looking forward to your next video!
@@dustupstexas - Although not as strong, chicken wire will work as well. The less flex the better. Based on your location & soil conditions, I would be concerned about overall strength of the fence. An adult deer can weigh over 150lbs. You don't want to have to constantly rebuild this fence each time a deer or feral antelope attempt to penetrate it. That is why I recommend the "Hog Wire" combined with some sort of tight wire mesh on the lower section along with "guy wires" on the T-posts to ensure it remains upright. You can use standard 2in w x 4in mesh 4 Ft high on the upper & lower. I used this because I had a couple extra rolls of it on location. Using the tighter mesh on lower section will keep out the jack rabbits and medium size varmints. Probably easiest to find at Home Depot. Hope that makes sense. You may want to consider checking out the links below- All the best in your endeavors! wildlife.org/wild-cam-fence-busting-feral-antelope-open-up-texas-range/ ruclips.net/video/0FGInl2JFRM/видео.html PS- Check out social media for videos of deer jumping high fences...
I live in arizona and face the same soil issues. When I put in my fence I dug the holes with a pressure washer. I know water isn't as easy to get to for you but it made quick work of the caliche all I had to do was pick the rocks out after the water had dried up
Get a rotary hammer drill with a bit the size of the t post and take the metal plate off on the t post, it will drill through rock and the hole is just the right size
Electric fences operating with a ground rod will become quite inefficient in dry "soil" such as you have as you get further from the energiser. You can use alternating + and - strands but you have to weigh up the cost of extra hot tape vs multiple energisers.
I love watching these updates! It's very inspiring to see what you are trying to accomplish and the steps on how you get there. Keep it up! Also, I appreciate people who are transparent with their sponsors.
I know it’s a scarce resource, but big construction drill rigs actually have water tanks. If the soil won’t bind properly, they literally dump water into the shaft
I remember when you started this channel and now seeing all the greenery that has sprung up is pretty inspiring but also very sobering of how long it takes to build something from the ground up in nature.
6:19 - Concrete mix for fence posts is made with Type II/V Portland Cement, gravel and sand. You already have the gravel and sand in place. All you need to do is mix in the cement. How about this, drill the hole using the auger but instead of digging it out add in an appropriate amount of cement and using the auger to mix it into the broken soil You'll know it is fully mixed when the top is no longer just grey cement material but almost tan dirt color. Add water and use Auger to mix until the whole mess looks like mud. Stick in post and add supports to keep post straight up until concrete hardens. Add a little water now and again since you just did a "neat" poor and moisture will seep out of footing into surrounding ground. This does work. You aren't trying to make something that will withstand 5200psi, you are merely trying to keep a post standing straight up against wind and some minor pushing from a 1/2 ton cow. Trust me, this is how they do it. Just mix in place, don't make more work than you need to.
@@dustupstexas No prob. I live in Las Vegas and also am dealing with caliche just a foot (or less) down. It is the bane of my existence. Might I suggest you get what is called a Tamping Bar. It has a sharp chisel end and a flat end for hammering. The thing should weigh 15+ lbs and is great for breaking ground rocks that are jamming your auger. Also, get a manual fence post driver as I am worried about your back dealing with that heavy AF gas powered driver. You actually put in more physical labor picking it up and holding it steady.
When I saw your first video about buying a piece of land out of nowhere I thought you'd give up pretty fast, but hey keep up the good work you rock dude..
pour water around the base of the T-post you're checking voltage on - the water will make a better conductor to tell if you are getting a good connection.
Hi Shaun, Watching you make those clay balls was painful. I think using the clay is a great idea so here are a few basic concepts to help you work clay. Clay shrinks as it drys out and expands when it gets wet. It also takes some time for clay to hydrate or “slake”. Its better to have too much water at first and let the clay dry out to the best working consistency. Weigh the clay and water so you don’t need to guess the amounts every time you mix. Wet clay sticks to non absorbent things like table top laminates and doesn’t stick to canvas, cardboard, or news paper. After making your seed clay mix, roll out the clay into a long coil that is diameter you want, then cut it into the size you want. If you can get a red clay or a dark clay, you will be able to see if the clay spreads into the surrounding area after it gets wet. Think about using the clay as a vehicle to hold seeds, sawdust, biochar and fertilizer. Best if luck in your project. Richard
Haha I did this in Australia with a chicken farmer. The soil here is very sandy but it was soo difficult to dig. It got really hard and filled with roots. Trying to dig almost the length of the shovel took ages.
I would use the auger to loosen the soil. I'm not worrying about the dirt staying in the hole. Then, just set the pole in the loosened dirt, seating it with a few poundings with a pole pounder.
On another channel doing a similar thing, they got a Kubota tractor with an auger attachment which seemed to be a huge benefit to him going forward. Seems like it might help you to have that.
For strainer post install, I would recommend using scissor shovel post hole digger in conjunction with the powered auger. It’s basically two shovels fulcrumned together and it’s great for pulling out rocks and dirt out of the holes. Augers don’t always quite get you a clean hole especially in your gravelly soils Shaun. A bar with a chiseled end and the other end a rammer is useful too. Good luck
I know most of these holes are out in the middle of your land, or at least far away from power. But as someone off grid with similar soils I have found a shop vac is an amazing thing to get that dusty soil out from in those auger holes. Maybe drag the generator over and suck it out? Works amazingly.
I love the failures, the successes, the difficulties, the slow progress, the lessons, the potential. The only better tool you could use would be a Bobcat and that would be super expensive. It would be the best weapon you could have for that huge job. It would also help you to dig big holes for the trees around base camp. Teamwork makes the dream work.
Add water to your holes when digging. Helps keep the soil together and helps loosen up the packed stuff.. If it’s super tough, start a hole, fill with water and let it soak through slowly.
You can use the water you have in those totes to put in the hole/area you are digging in… the water will make the sand stick together and you’ll be able to dig much better.. 👍🏽 hope this helps
I used to work at a nursery that was on an alluvial plain, 100% sand. Pouring water into the holes was the only way we could efficiently auger out the sand.
Dig a trench. Build a concrete level sill with the posts installed in the corners. It provides multiple benefits. Water retention. Level sill spill way. Gate access. A structure to build from. Etc.
I know here. If I have to dig any depth. I add a little water in my hole after I start it and let it set for a few minutes to soak in. Digs out so much nicer. If you bring some cottonwood logs broken branches in. Put them in your beaver dams they hold water like a sponge and will sometimes sprouts start out of them.
If going with electric fencing, I suggest putting your grounding rod as deep as possible. Locate the rod in a place that you irrigate. Fence will be ineffective if ground rod does not reach moisture to get a ground in rocky/silty soil.
I have severe deer pressure here as well. Something they don't like is flash tape, which is designed to scare birds away, but it doesn't hold up to wind or environment well so I switched to other things that will reflect even minimal light. Old CDs will work. You could quarter them before you string them to the fence to get more distance.. Also for your corner posts.... sorry I forget what they are called but you can just anchor a circle of fence, then fill that with rocks with a piece of tubing running through to hold your wire. Though you have enough good sized rocks you could probably just mortar a pile of them together to get the same result for corner posts.
I like comments that come from experience. My ex found a recipe using egg and garlic as a foliar deer repellant. Long lasting, does not wash off easily. The only way I was able to get seedlings above browse line was by twining hair from my brush into the leading buds. Then I got a dog and the browse pressure on trees all but vanished. Best dog ever.
I’ve used a post hole digger to loosen up the dirt and a wet dry vac to suck the dirt out for me. My shoulders were tired and it’s what I thought of in a pinch.
If you are able to soak with water before you dig it should help stay together and stop sloughing off the auger bit. It should even help soften the soil at the same time.
I have used soil augers to collect soil samples in the desert for years. When digging a hole in areas where the soil is powdery the soil always drops to the bottom of the hole when you lift the auger. However if you add a small amount of water to the hole you make a very thick mud and the soil will adhere to the auger and so you will be able to lift the soil when you lift the auger out of the hole.
Great tip
This is what I came here to say. Definitely a back saver.
its hard to make mud in a desert with a small amount of water
@@timkbirchico8542 : at least the water will end up in the soil.
I remember in the beginning how clueless you were, and me along with you, and unprepared quite frankly. We've all seen you grow, and this project is gaining steam. What a crazy thing to undertake, I love it.
Put a fabric ( plastic) on the fence to capture fog at night and the morning and create a little shade, wind protection.... since you already did most of the work.
I wonder if non-woven geotextile fabric would work for that. It could be a cheap solution.
ground-to-air moisture collectors woudl be cool.
I saw a video on a village in Europe that uses a screen to catch the fog and make water for the town. The fabric looked like shade cloth.
I don't have fog, but I do get dew in the winter. That's an idea
@twofathoms1 west coast of south America. They couldn't figure out why trees would grow without rain until they discovered that the ocean fog would be pushed up the mountain slopes and get captured in the trees.
They put up large screens to captured enough moisture to grow all kinds of crops.
.... 80+ years ago
Maybe a good idea would be before you start your project Post to q&a on your RUclips channel and ask people the best way to do something like this. Because it really doesn't do any good if you're already in the middle of something when all these amazing people have all these wonderful ideas. Who could have thought about adding water to a hole or running a tractor all the other great things that folks have come up with. Also someone posted something about needing a higher fence so that you can keep mule deer out of the plants. Just a thought.
elk and deer in a desert, i did not know that
Yes!! They are considered a non native animal here in Tx so you can harvest as many as you want… lol you don’t see them that much though
Elk what
Ive seen beavers here in the rio grand outside el paso
@@corbinharrell8754 Elk are native to Texas, similar to the Desert Bighorn Sheep, hunting led to the extirpation of the Elk. Elk began to be reintroduced to Texas in the 1920's. They were a game species in Texas till 1997 when they were declared an exotic. Even if they are "considered to be non native", Elk are just as native as the Desert Bighorn Sheep are to the Tans-Pecos region of Texas. You can see a lot of them in West Texas mtn ranges.
@@davidruiz2128- I was a little shocked to see a beaver near the campground lagoon in Big Bend National Park. I believe one of the campground hosts told me that they partially flood the campground to keep the plants and grass alive.
I use a big wet dry vacuum to pull loose material out of holes. 2” hose and several straight extensions. Loosen with auger, vacuum spoils out. Be amazed at how fast
Bingo. I've had to drill much bigger holes in commercial construction... in much worse 'soils.'
I did this on my fence.
In the loose caliche I drive the T-post with an electric demolition hammer, Extreme Power, and a bit off of Amazon. I always knock the blade off of the T-post and cut a point on them with a grinder. Where it is mostly rock, every hole has to be drilled. I prefer the Pionjar with a 1 7/8” bit. I am definitely going to try the vacuum cleaner idea on the pulling post holes. It might be faster than a tin can.
the mule deer can jump that fence with ZERO issues - you would need more like 8 feet+ (ive been through this) cows are easy to keep out tho ill be curious if the electric does anything to keep the deer out - keep at it - very interesting!
10 feet.
That was my thoughts also its just too short of a fence to keep the deer out. But at least its a start
Maybe the deer and elk need to encounter the lead fence, off camera
I was going to work one day and seen a deer so I slowed down. He was next to a metal factory called Padgett. They had a problem with scrappers stealing their metal so they put up an 8 ft block wall around their factory. The deer ran up and jumped over that fence with no problem. Super cool and blew my mind
elk and deer are pretty dumb. he can finish his fence plan then zip tie dowls to the top of each post and just use visible mesh net (zip tied to the dowels) to extend the height of the fence. Cheap and works where I live on elk and deer but not as pretty as other options.
As a gardener, this appeals to me. It has got to be the most challenging way to grow plants.
Dude started his garden on extreme mode
I always like trying to grow the impossible.
He’s going to find out the hard way, he’s not going to be able to grow a forest.. I live in SW Texas. Without water every week, from May to October nothing will grow but scrub.
@@GotoHere theres already a natural desert forest near his property. It can be done
@GotoHere in his first video he defined what his forest will be. Manhigh shrubs was the goal
At your corners, put in extra t posts extending each direction. Then attach tension wires to the top of the corner post and bottoms of the anchor posts. Tighten up the wire and the fence corners will stay secure.
I know this video is about the fencing, but your plant progress looks great!
The deer can clear an 8’ high fence when they want to. We will tie pieces of white fabric about every ten feet to the electric fence wire so the deer will see it and not rip it out every other day. We have had some luck setting to lines of electric fence about 5 to 7 feet apart and two to three wires on each fence line. They will still take it out every once in a while. Illinois white tails do get a little bigger than what you have down there.
venison makes some great jerky.
Hi Shaun. For your most valuable tree saplings please enclose them with wire cages the first few years. There are easy to make cylindrical ones made with whatever wire you have available. Secure them with two metal posts sunk in the ground so they are not knocked over. Also plant tons of native grass seed all over the areas away from your seedlings. With rain these will provide grazing for deer and keep the pressure away from the tree saplings. A dog is also a great idea as long as it’s safe from rattlesnakes. For native seeds, The wildflower and wild grass mixes from the seed company in Fredericksburg, Texas is a good starting point. This can get very expensive very fast so they might be able to give you a less expensive local source specializing in bulk seed for the Trans-Pecos area. Best Wishes From David in Houston.
What you need are called "Cattle panels." You can make gates and other variations in your fencing. $25 for a 16 foot panel.
Yes! Florida here: I'm working with 'panels' today actually...(I'm an old artist...not a rancher.) Panels are often better because you can achieve 'demensional strength' by laying them in an "S" formation. The primary advantage is that the shape adds strength, not the posts...the posts could be just a pile of earth/rocks....not a typical iron post. The "S" shape will also gather biology ( twigs, seeds etc ) that a 'line' will not....for example in a 'wash' it will be strong enough to stand up similar to a 'snowfence'....you'll experience a
build of debris on the opposite side. This 'bio-holding' will be deep enough to hold enough moisture that ( with luck) it will root some 'brush' Good luck!!!
I admire how determined you are. The learning curve is affecting change in you and the project, keep after it.
Try watering the spot you want the hole. The and sticks together more and helps to pull the rocks together.
probably feels its might be a waste of water
@@TheKlinkbut if it makes the job ten times faster it’s worth it.
indeed : use water to moisten the sand so it sticks to the drill. After the hole is made you can use the 'mud' to fill the hole again to fix the post and the soil is also a but humid so it can help the plants anyway.
Shaun hopefully you read these. I've been watching your channel a lot, as I am getting older and looking for a cheap, sustainable way to live happily ever after. I really like what you're doing, and plan on doing something similar when the time comes. I have 2 videos that I really think you should see if you haven't already. They are both by a guy named Andrew Millison (sorry not trying to promote another RUclipsr, but I think you'll find these 2 videos extremely useful). The first one is called "How the UN is Holding Back the Sahara Desert" and it talks about how they are reclaiming lands from the desert to farm on. It shows you generational knowledge of how to do so. The even make terraces like yours, except they stack them in a way that promotes growth. They also have some other methods that help turn over dried, sun baked earth back into usable soil that you should be doing. The other is "How to Recycle Waste Water using Plants" and it shows you the steps to create a biome system, that waters and grows your plants, while also cleaning toxins from the water that can then be reused. The method will probably have to be adapted for your desert environment, but I think it might give you some good tips. Anyway, love the content. Wish you nothing but the best of everything!!!
Thanks! And good luck
Thank you!
For your composting bucket you should consider bokashi to ferment it. It will prevent it from getting ripe, buggy, and will help it break down in your ground a lot more efficient. Keep on plugging away!
To ensure that the trees survive after being planted in your desert, it would be good to have 3 jugs of water surround each tree with a 2’ long wool wick extending from the bottom of each jug through a tiny hole and the other end of the wick in contact with the roots of the tree. This would ensure there is sufficient water for the tree. It may last a year. Hopefully, by then the roots will be in contact with the water table.
Thanks for the video Shaun !
I’ve drilled a lot of holes with one of those one-man augers. The trick is not to put any down pressure on it. If anything I will often take enough weight off the auger to keep it spinning as fast as it can go. This is the secret to dislodging rocks, getting through hard pan and clay. The other thing is to keep the digging tooth reasonably sharp. The hard faced teeth from Ardisam/Earthquake are the best I’ve found. I dug a bunch of 5’ deep holes with extension shafts once. I actually dug more than the guy with a tractor mounted auger because I could get into position quicker.
Fun fact, shocking the ground has been proven to stimulate the growth of (at least some) fungi so the fence may help the soil improve by stimulating the fungi
Did you call 811?? 🤣
you win
thanks for the sustained chuckle
13:25 It's awesome that you have someone living there permanently now, the project has already come a real long way!
I love watching the terrace get greener and greener with each new video upload. Looks like great progress so far!
This is so cool! Greening the desert project American back country style! Ever since I discovered Geoff Lawton and dove head first into the permaculture world I’ve been obsessed with greening the desert projects! Thank you for sharing your process and adventures I watch all your videos all the way through to the end, you’re sooo fascinating and inspiring! Never stop what your doing and I don’t just “believe” you’ll make a forest, I know you WILL and I can’t wait to continue on this adventure with you!!!
I feel your pain. Here in Alamogordo, NM, I need my six foot steel pointed bars to break through rocks & boulders in virgin earth in the foothills of the Sacramento mntns. When the house base pad was done the contractors pulled out three boulders that were between 6 feet & eight feet long by four feet wide. They are still on site.
I love the production of the vid! Your kids animations are fun, the elk and dear placement :) overall thumbs up on the progress of entertainment value!!
Thanks so much!
and flashing those calculus equations, hilarious.
The auger only needs to break the ground, then you can drive the t post in without pulling out any silt, unless you plan to concrete... I wouldn't, just drive in the t posts
That was for 6" corner posts that I elected not to use
I see the September forecast has rain in your area. Fingers crossed
@kingneptune8120 I just watched the same thing and was hoping he'd be in the part they showed lots of rain
I am so happy that we have reached this point that you need to build a fence.
I love how the comments can give you so many tips and pointers. Makes learning on the go so much easier when everyone can see what you’re doing right/wrong
Indeed
In South Africa we use a heavy duty pipe which slides over the steelpost, with a piece of railway track welded across the top to give it weight, 2 handles on the side. It drives yr post through most rocky formations.
Oh ...... you have me in fits of laughter here - right at the beginning!!
If the ground is dry and high resistance, you may need to run a ground wire and multiple ground spikes along the row as well
I was thinking the same except use the lower wire as the ground.
I had a problem with dry soil and not being able to drive the ground rods very deep due to bedrock. I still wired the ground to the rods but also attached the ground to the wire fence. Every t-post then became a ground rod. Worked like a charm.
Same advice. In dry ground you may need multiple grounds. secondly the voltage is extremely high and cannot be measured with a regular multi meter.
I run a hot and ground wire system on some paddocks (fields) the animals press between the hot and ground wires and get a shock. It is far more reliable and easier than setting up and earth ground.
The fence will not work to keep deer out but another member suggested a Dog and i think thats your best bet they would even keep the deer away. You just need to make sure you get a dog that can handle multiple Coyotes.
So a rottweiler or a German shepherd
@@giovannifoulmouth7205 either of those would work there are others as well. I think if you started it there as a puppy it would acclimate to the heat.
aussie blue heeler would be a good choice too, good in hot climates
I think he's more worried about cows then deer
I had real hard time getting saplings above the browse line until I got a dog.
Blue healer cross.
best dog ever.
Because of the dryness of your site, it is crucial that you use multiple wires and alternate hot wires and grounded wires. There isn't enough conductivity in the dry soil to act as the electrical ground. Thus the grounded wires are needed for the electric fence to be effective. Don't skimp on your charger! Instead of polywire you should use 12.5 gauge or 14 gauge high tensile wire. Either one should be cheaper than the polywire. The 12.5 is stiffer and stronger but you'd probably need to reinforce your corners to pull it straight. Make your life easy and spring for a spinning jenny, they are super helpful for installing wire and crucial for taking it up again for reuse. Actually, several of your neighbors probably already own one.
Btw, you can reinforce your corners if needed with wires running out to earth anchors.
Awwwwww. I saw my name in the credits! Wasn’t expecting that.
I’m enrolled in Master Gardener program here in Tucson (University of AZ program) and I’ve recommended your channel to instructors and students! Hopefully I can be of help to your efforts.
You are. Thank you for the support
instead of a fence, have you thought about high tunnels??? A good 10x20 feet high tunnel goes for about $160. If you put them end to end, it is a perfect fence and it keeps the moisture in. After a couple of years, you can take them down and build them in a different location. When plants are young, they are sensitive.
That digger is an arm breaker, traded mine for a tractor and implement, still difficult but not so sketchy. Electric will keep the cows out but not hogs etc…Test the fence by pissing on it😊.
The placement of those deer asses in Brandon and Daniel's faces... I'm just dying... 😂
That was funny. And those that might be wondering, it's was a Roosevelt elk that I saw, we don't have Rocky mountain elk here. I'm Daniel by the way.
💖💖🐮Love the sassy cow clap backs! SimpliSafe don't seem to have "Core Monitoring " as an option in UK but had a good look around and seems like a good set up. Keep on going because the progress is starting to really show now
Shaun, i like what you are doing! i have a suggestion regarding the dry soil that slips off the shovel and makes it hard to get up with the posthole digger. i know water is scarce, but maybe it's worth it. try adding some water as you did a hole by hand or machine. when the soil/sand gets wet it may make getting it out much easier.
New studies about the beneficial effects that beavers have on raising the water table, improving deserts, and altogether improving dry, arid soil is amazing. We need to respect beavers as nature’s helper to improve deserts. Soon, they are going to be used to help bring back drinking water in Las Vegas which was built upon a desert and greatly needs more drinking water.
I have a very rocky and silt soil and have learned that the best way to dig holes is with a Shop-Vac without filters.
Without a filter? Would that not allow chunks and dust into the motor or impeller?
@@justgivemethetruth hasn't happened yet
Your terrace is really growing some good stuff. I’m glad the fence is up.
11:50 Wow, I didn't know you practiced jiu-jitsu! That's awesome, I learned a ton over my time in jiu-jitsu
Keep it up.
6:25 it seems like the answer to keeping the dirt on the screws is as everything on the ranch, water 💧
You may want to relocate one of the grounding rods to be directly below one of your plant irrigation drips and you may want to add additional grounding rods that are bigger and go deeper in the soil. Just like for the plants, the soil for the electric fence grounding rods should have good moisture retention. Dry, desert sand has high resistivity and your soil probably has silicon dioxide which is a good insulator. You may want to consider adding palm fronds (barasti fence) in between the fence posts to prevent animals from entering. As a bonus it might provide a bit of shade for the south and east/west sides.
Excited to watch your journey man!! I’ve spent a lot of time out in Sierra Blanca… beautiful country out that way down by the border..
I am so entertained by your efforts! Very good work. Love it.
I’ve been doing a smaller project like this in the Texas Hill Country for years. If you want my time tested free advice.
1. High fence in a small area about 1 acre. Shape the earth in that area with swales etc… Focus ALL your plantings in this area using as a nucleus for species cutting, seeds and over all feedback loop. ANYTHING YOU PLANT OUTSIDE OF THIS WILL NOT SURVIVE DUE TO ANIMAL PRESSURE. Please trust me on this one.
2. Go ahead and do your large scale earth works outside of your fenced in nucleus so that you begin to change the overall infiltration.
3. The only thing I would TRY or experiment planting outside of the fenced nucleus is desert trees and shrubs that have thorns. Acacias, Huisache, cow tongue opuntia etc. But be prepared for those to struggle or not establish.
3. When putting in fence… use a rock bar when you post hole dig, and a hammer drill with a 7/8 rock bit if needed. When putting in t posts, use them same large hammer drill with a 7/8 rock bit to pre drill then pour water in the hole before you hammer the t posts in.
4. High fence is beyond the most important thing in your project. Without it the work will seem to go into the abyss…. I’ve tried every other hack I could find online and unfortunately it just is what it is.
Maybe you can use that auger to aerate the soil (dige a series of holes and fill them back with loose material to improve water absorption in that spot
Really cool to watch you fence off your start to success. After watching months of you moving dirt and making good soil I’m super excited for you. Keep up the great work.
I have binge watched most all of your videos and loved them. I have a crazy idea what about hair salons collecting hair for your mulch it would make valuable compost and it would otherwise go to the dump .... as well as coffee grounds from coffee shops,
here in Ontario there are tons of Tim Hortons coffee shops they must throw out tonnes!
8'- 2x4 for spacing or 10' pvc pipe. Also you can get much longer t-posts. Your t post driver should also be able to pound chain link fence corenerposts, 1-5/8" diameter. The is a cup that matches the 1-5/8" pipe. Military uses rolls of razor wire, which come up at govt. auctions from time to time. Cattle Ranchers have been building gabion blocks or teepees wighted with rocks for fence corners since forever. Thanks for the video.
voice of experience.
huge labor saving in this one.
Try using a shop vac to clear the holes. I tunneled under a foundation to replace broken sewer lines and the shop vac helped me out immensely.
Our boy tries the biggest bit he's got first. Someone's eager to make some holes! 😂
sooo excited to see that little forest glow up
I really enjoy watching how your project is growing. I suggest you “number” the videos you put up on YT. I find it hard to find each video in order that you are posting. 👍👍👍👍
@Shaun-
I love your videos and project.
Something I would be especially concerned about the Deer/Antelope. They will jump the fence! I've had to deal with them before in Eastern WA.
I recommend using metal "Hog Wire panels, for the lower 1st 4 feet, they are inexpensive and much stronger. Next then extend the "T" posts up another 4-5 feet. We had 5-6 feet fences which the deer had no issues jumping over. It's easy to raise the "T" posts, I used cheap 3/4" x 8' electrical conduit and "zip" tied them to the "T" posts (Bailing wire is good also...) and add the additional wire mesh (not "Hog Wire") to the raised section. I would try for 7 to 8 feet of height I would also recommend using bailing wire "guy wires" every 4 to 5 posts to provide extra protection from the fence getting knocked over. I would tie a knot in the middle of the "Guy Wires" and attach surveyor's tie tape above the knots so no one trips over them.
Everything is still able to pass electrical current, and will prevent other smaller varmints from breaking through and The hog wire is much stronger.
All the best,
Looking forward to your next video!
The upper part is chicken wire? What material did you use? I don't get it
@@dustupstexas - Although not as strong, chicken wire will work as well. The less flex the better. Based on your location & soil conditions, I would be concerned about overall strength of the fence. An adult deer can weigh over 150lbs. You don't want to have to constantly rebuild this fence each time a deer or feral antelope attempt to penetrate it. That is why I recommend the "Hog Wire" combined with some sort of tight wire mesh on the lower section along with "guy wires" on the T-posts to ensure it remains upright.
You can use standard 2in w x 4in mesh 4 Ft high on the upper & lower. I used this because I had a couple extra rolls of it on location. Using the tighter mesh on lower section will keep out the jack rabbits and medium size varmints. Probably easiest to find at Home Depot. Hope that makes sense. You may want to consider checking out the links below-
All the best in your endeavors!
wildlife.org/wild-cam-fence-busting-feral-antelope-open-up-texas-range/
ruclips.net/video/0FGInl2JFRM/видео.html
PS- Check out social media for videos of deer jumping high fences...
I live in arizona and face the same soil issues. When I put in my fence I dug the holes with a pressure washer. I know water isn't as easy to get to for you but it made quick work of the caliche all I had to do was pick the rocks out after the water had dried up
Fencing for me keeps the Maasai goats out, and now I have a syntropic forest in the middle of a wasteland of korongos, cactus and acacia.
Get a rotary hammer drill with a bit the size of the t post and take the metal plate off on the t post, it will drill through rock and the hole is just the right size
Electric fences operating with a ground rod will become quite inefficient in dry "soil" such as you have as you get further from the energiser. You can use alternating + and - strands but you have to weigh up the cost of extra hot tape vs multiple energisers.
I love watching these updates! It's very inspiring to see what you are trying to accomplish and the steps on how you get there. Keep it up! Also, I appreciate people who are transparent with their sponsors.
If you have the portable power, try a shop vacuum for getting the loose dirt out of the hole.
I know it’s a scarce resource, but big construction drill rigs actually have water tanks. If the soil won’t bind properly, they literally dump water into the shaft
Thanks!
Thank you!
I remember when you started this channel and now seeing all the greenery that has sprung up is pretty inspiring but also very sobering of how long it takes to build something from the ground up in nature.
Finally all caught up. Love to see this progress over time, real inspiring stuff.
6:19 - Concrete mix for fence posts is made with Type II/V Portland Cement, gravel and sand. You already have the gravel and sand in place. All you need to do is mix in the cement. How about this, drill the hole using the auger but instead of digging it out add in an appropriate amount of cement and using the auger to mix it into the broken soil You'll know it is fully mixed when the top is no longer just grey cement material but almost tan dirt color. Add water and use Auger to mix until the whole mess looks like mud. Stick in post and add supports to keep post straight up until concrete hardens. Add a little water now and again since you just did a "neat" poor and moisture will seep out of footing into surrounding ground. This does work. You aren't trying to make something that will withstand 5200psi, you are merely trying to keep a post standing straight up against wind and some minor pushing from a 1/2 ton cow. Trust me, this is how they do it. Just mix in place, don't make more work than you need to.
Thanks
@@dustupstexas No prob. I live in Las Vegas and also am dealing with caliche just a foot (or less) down. It is the bane of my existence. Might I suggest you get what is called a Tamping Bar. It has a sharp chisel end and a flat end for hammering. The thing should weigh 15+ lbs and is great for breaking ground rocks that are jamming your auger. Also, get a manual fence post driver as I am worried about your back dealing with that heavy AF gas powered driver. You actually put in more physical labor picking it up and holding it steady.
When I saw your first video about buying a piece of land out of nowhere I thought you'd give up pretty fast, but hey keep up the good work you rock dude..
pour water around the base of the T-post you're checking voltage on - the water will make a better conductor to tell if you are getting a good connection.
Hi Shaun,
Watching you make those clay balls was painful.
I think using the clay is a great idea so here are a few basic concepts to help you work clay.
Clay shrinks as it drys out and expands when it gets wet. It also takes some time for clay to hydrate or “slake”.
Its better to have too much water at first and let the clay dry out to the best working consistency.
Weigh the clay and water so you don’t need to guess the amounts every time you mix.
Wet clay sticks to non absorbent things like table top laminates and doesn’t stick to canvas, cardboard, or news paper.
After making your seed clay mix, roll out the clay into a long coil that is diameter you want, then cut it into the size you want.
If you can get a red clay or a dark clay, you will be able to see if the clay spreads into the surrounding area after it gets wet.
Think about using the clay as a vehicle to hold seeds, sawdust, biochar and fertilizer.
Best if luck in your project.
Richard
Haha I did this in Australia with a chicken farmer. The soil here is very sandy but it was soo difficult to dig. It got really hard and filled with roots. Trying to dig almost the length of the shovel took ages.
I would use the auger to loosen the soil. I'm not worrying about the dirt staying in the hole. Then, just set the pole in the loosened dirt, seating it with a few poundings with a pole pounder.
On another channel doing a similar thing, they got a Kubota tractor with an auger attachment which seemed to be a huge benefit to him going forward. Seems like it might help you to have that.
Thank you so much for putting in the time on showing us these things. I hope you have a good week!
For strainer post install, I would recommend using scissor shovel post hole digger in conjunction with the powered auger. It’s basically two shovels fulcrumned together and it’s great for pulling out rocks and dirt out of the holes. Augers don’t always quite get you a clean hole especially in your gravelly soils Shaun. A bar with a chiseled end and the other end a rammer is useful too. Good luck
Sean you badass- go baby go! Looking sharp as hell, love the carry
I know most of these holes are out in the middle of your land, or at least far away from power. But as someone off grid with similar soils I have found a shop vac is an amazing thing to get that dusty soil out from in those auger holes. Maybe drag the generator over and suck it out? Works amazingly.
2:48 Is that a touch of Dr Who music I hear while you read the auger instructions?
What about putting out feelers for people trying to get rid of wooden pallets and reusing them as fencing somehow? 🤔
Unbelievable how hard one can working ... What passion it is to push you forward.. ❤❤❤
Looking green! Would love a short progress update on the growth and what seeds are doing better than others
I love the failures, the successes, the difficulties, the slow progress, the lessons, the potential.
The only better tool you could use would be a Bobcat and that would be super expensive. It would be the best weapon you could have for that huge job.
It would also help you to dig big holes for the trees around base camp.
Teamwork makes the dream work.
Add water to your holes when digging. Helps keep the soil together and helps loosen up the packed stuff.. If it’s super tough, start a hole, fill with water and let it soak through slowly.
Cooperation is incredibly valuable.
You can use the water you have in those totes to put in the hole/area you are digging in… the water will make the sand stick together and you’ll be able to dig much better.. 👍🏽 hope this helps
I used to work at a nursery that was on an alluvial plain, 100% sand. Pouring water into the holes was the only way we could efficiently auger out the sand.
Dig a trench. Build a concrete level sill with the posts installed in the corners. It provides multiple benefits. Water retention. Level sill spill way. Gate access. A structure to build from. Etc.
I know here. If I have to dig any depth. I add a little water in my hole after I start it and let it set for a few minutes to soak in. Digs out so much nicer. If you bring some cottonwood logs broken branches in. Put them in your beaver dams they hold water like a sponge and will sometimes sprouts start out of them.
If going with electric fencing, I suggest putting your grounding rod as deep as possible. Locate the rod in a place that you irrigate. Fence will be ineffective if ground rod does not reach moisture to get a ground in rocky/silty soil.
love it 😀 keeping it up dustups
Invest in a rock/digging bar. Really helps loosening up the ground when having a tough time digging.
and it will come in handy for so many other things
Check out the Wedge-lock corner post system. It does not need large corner posts. You can use the t-posts for the corners and it is much faster.
I have severe deer pressure here as well. Something they don't like is flash tape, which is designed to scare birds away, but it doesn't hold up to wind or environment well so I switched to other things that will reflect even minimal light. Old CDs will work. You could quarter them before you string them to the fence to get more distance.. Also for your corner posts.... sorry I forget what they are called but you can just anchor a circle of fence, then fill that with rocks with a piece of tubing running through to hold your wire. Though you have enough good sized rocks you could probably just mortar a pile of them together to get the same result for corner posts.
I like comments that come from experience.
My ex found a recipe using egg and garlic as a foliar deer repellant. Long lasting, does not wash off easily.
The only way I was able to get seedlings above browse line was by twining hair from my brush into the leading buds.
Then I got a dog and the browse pressure on trees all but vanished.
Best dog ever.
I’ve used a post hole digger to loosen up the dirt and a wet dry vac to suck the dirt out for me. My shoulders were tired and it’s what I thought of in a pinch.
Now you know why everything has thorns! Seriously, lots of luck.
If you are able to soak with water before you dig it should help stay together and stop sloughing off the auger bit. It should even help soften the soil at the same time.