Been using mine since the 1982 , high country of Colorado , cooked more meals than I can count . It has always worked . It has been stored for the past several years with fuel in it , pulled it out this morning and after priming it fired right up ! Made a cup of coffee and thought about my youth , hiking and hunting the high country !
My daddy gave me one for my 18th birthday (1980). I'm about to turn 60 and my little Optimus is still chugging along like a champ. I have not needed to clean the jet once in all that time - the self-cleaning design works. I usually prime it with the windscreen already on. If you tip stove a bit then you can pour fuel into the moat with the windscreen on. I have learned how to prime it in still air by burning the paper envelope of an instant oatmeal package. If there is any breeze at all then that trick becomes more difficult. When in doubt, slop a little extra priming fuel on it. (Don't do this trick in your tent - ALWAYS light out doors and away from sleeping bags, tents, etc) The flames may alarm your inexperienced friends but I've never started an unintended fire with it. I was ready to retire my old brass buddy and buy a lighter stove recently. But after weighing everything and doing a lot of market research I found that the combined weight of stove, fuel, lightweight Sigg fuel bottle and my trusty old 1qt aluminum teapot is still competitive with any Jetboil or Whisperlight product for 2 people that I could find in 2022. So my old buddy has earned its place with my new (pretty) ultralight camping gear, and we're rocking on together to this day! By the way, the old Sigg fuel bottles are quite a bit lighter than the MSR fuel bottles that they superficially resemble. MSR bottles are thicker walled because they are designed to be pressurized. I'm told Sigg doesn't make fuel bottles any more, but if you can find a used one then you can save several ounces of weight. Steampunk was not a thing back when these stoves were first marketed. But with their all brass construction and classic old-school design, they do evoke a very steam punky vibe today. My younger camping friends who have never seen one tend to be impressed. I've used my stove from sea level to 12,000ft, and in temps down to -15degF (that was at lower elevation near Lake Superior). I lost my instructions long ago and forgot about the suggestion to only fill the tank 3/4 full. I've been filling the tank all the way up to the brim for 40 years with no serious issues. It does belch a little more liquid fuel and make considerably bigger flames on startup if you fill the tank right to the brim. But it also let's you cook an extra meal or two on a single tank of fuel.
I bought one of the original Svea stoves from REI in Seattle around 1965, when it was still just a single "outdoors" retail store. I got it to go backpacking when I was in college. I still have it. I have not used it in decades, but it worked fine the last time out.
I've owned and used a number of these little jewels over my 61 yrs. My original from my early boy scout days is still in the family somewhere. I used to take a square of toilet paper and twist it into a wick. Dip it into the fuel tank to saturate with fuel then wrap around the burner stem. Never had a priming problem even at 11,000 ft. But don't forget to put the cap back on the tank b4 lighting. I won't mention how I know about that.
I did a whole lot of high altitude backpacking with the 123, and if you vented the fuel tank in Denver at 5300 feet and put the cap back on tightly, you could warm the stove enough with your hands at 12,000 to 14,000 feet to get fuel to flow down into the cup-no wicks or any of that stuff necessary.
I am 73 years old and have been using the Svea 123r since the 1960's. I figured out a neat way to start it. Just tear off a small piece of paper towel, toilet paper will not work. Roll it long ways between your fingers. Then open the fuel cap and dip the rolled paper towel into the ful and let it soak up some gas. Put the rolled paper towel in the preheating cup, being careful not to let it get near the fuel cap so you don't burn the o ring. Jut light it and open the vaqlve when it gets hot. That way you don't have fuel running down the outside of the stove.
Great stove! The OFF position is key turned fully clockwise. Key turned fully counter-clockwise is to clean the orifice, but it is not sealed, and will leak fuel. And, if you leave it turned counter-clockwise, you risk damaging the cleaner pin/needle.
I bought my first Svea 123 in 1959, from a backpacking gear company in Denver. I bought another one in 1960 along with the Sigg Tourist cook set made for the 123, which (having replaced the fuel filler gasket once) is still going strong. I made the switch from white gasoline to Coleman fuel some time in the mid-1980s. Great stove!
I made these comments on your previous review of this. I like the idea of painting the key with bright nail polish and adding the cord. The chain is a pain when cooking. Like you said, ALWAYS remove the key when the stove is running! I have added some carbon fiber felt weld/soldering pad in two places: I cut a ring the size of the priming well to absorb the priming fuel and minimize spilling. I also cut a piece larger than the base diameter to set the stove on when using it in cold weather, allowing the tank to retain the heat better (like a hot pad). this easily tucks into the kit and reduces rattling as well. A decent replacement cup is a Stainless Ozark Trail cup from Walmart. It's the same diameter of the original cup and has attached folding handles like the Optimus pieces. A tip for priming is to put the pot support/shield on beforehand. Squirt the alcohol down into the bell, it will flow down to the priming cup. Lighting is easier since there is some fuel up near the lighter.
Resurrected my old stove. Thanks to your video I was able to use it. Started first up no problem after 40 years. It will be most useful when we have a power outage. It will outlive me.
MY first 123 I paid about $8 for in 1970. Rembert the the priming heats the fuel to pressurize it. Out in the field make sure the base is not on the cold ground. I carry asquare of cork to sit it on. Works great in temps above freezing. With practice you can use it at minus 20F. But don't go winter camping until you can make it work in cold temp. Always cook with a pot lid on to boil water to save fuel and heating time. Seva used to make a pump to pressurize the stove, but I never used one. For best results with any camp stove use a folding wind screen and paint the post black with stove paint. The gas cap has a pressure valve. In the event the stove over heats a flame will come out the vent and my damage the rubber gasket in the cap. Seva stopped making pressurized versions with different size gas tanks with a pump. They were real work horses. Using gas and a paper wick works great. Seva used to sell a past that in a squeezable tube to start the fire. I have heard of people leaving the cleaning needle up while running the stove and burned the needle off.
I once lit mine at -15degF during an emergency bivouac on the Lake Superior shore, Porcupine Mtns State Park. It was a little sluggish at first and took extra fuel to prime, but it worked like a champ to thaw drinking water when everything we had was frozen.
I have used this stove at 14,110 feet on Pikes Peak in the parking lot to make sloppy joe sandwiches. Have owned it since the sixties as a scout. It has every mile on it that I do. I don't always use it, but I do always take it with, just in case. Quality unit.
It’s a classic for sure! Keep in mind that in really cold conditions it’s hardER to get it to pressurize. They sold an aftermarket pump and cap to help in really cold conditions and it’s a very misunderstood accessory. The idea is to put a bit of pressure in it but not to pump it stiff like on a msr or coleman stove. Also, keep in mind that for optimal performance it should be insulated somewhat from snow and ice as this will cause the pressure to drop.
i did this back in the 80's. made an insulator out of ensolite foam that covered the bottom and sides of the tank. and yes, it seems like nobody knows how to use the midi pumps properly today. same with the optimus 111 and 22b new owners who don't know how many pump strokes are needed to light their stoves. in really cold conditions we used mautz fire paste (alcohol gel in a toothpaste tube) because it burned for a longer time than alcohol or white gas.
Most of the demos of this fine stove leave out one useful feature. That is the pot supports at the top of the stove....By twisting these outwards it provides a bigger base to support the pans
Wow, I just re-watched the video, and I cant believe I never twisted them out! Totally forgot to show that. Thanks for spotting that.. I use them twisted out almost all the time.
Used a 8R (Hunter) for over 2 decades but switched to Trangia but i missed the old sound. So i bought a sevond hand Svea 123 and just used it. The coffee tastes extra good. :)) Love that thing allready. Allready owned the Svea pump and special fillercap i used on my 8R so they will feel right at home on the Svea. :))
Just watched your video, in March 2022. This is the backpacking stove, I always wanted. I never knew how to prime the stove until now! I have a knock off brand Svea in the box style, made by Tex-Sport? I bought when I was a kid, in the 80's. No instructions... I never could light that little bastard! 😡 I still have it, and will try and fire it up, one day. Thanks for the instructional video!
Being born in the 1950's, I can recall seeing many of these "white gas" burning "Camp Stoves" as a kid and a young adult. In fact, I don't recall ever seeing even the propane stoves before some times in the late 1970's or early 80's.
Some mount the chain for the key with one end to the brass case/stand instead to the burner. This eliminates the need to fiddle with the chain each time the case/stand is removed or put back on.
Just found my old stove from about 1979. Used video to find how to use it. Now I will try it out. Mine is aluminium and in a set with a couple of pans and the lid is like a sml frying pan.
I live in Cheyenne Wyoming, that type of stove was used alot by Boy Scouts in my area back in the early to mid 80s, and yes it will work at altitude, of at least 8000 feet. P.S. There was at one time a pump you could get for that stove. Ah, that sound I know it well :)
Iridium242 yes the cap you have now is the safety pressure relief valve cap. The pump cap also incorporates a non return valve that lets you pump air into the tank. I’m sure you’ve noticed that the output of the burner changes gradually after it’s lit. For example ‘high’ right after it’s lit is not as high as ‘high’ after ten minutes. When it’s really cold, that process takes longer. The pump is designed to give it a bit more ‘oomph.’ The tank will still build pressure on its own as it heats up. It’s important to not go overboard with the pumping... because then the cap safety valve might trip.
I bought my SVEA 123 stoves in 1969(new) and a second at a yard sale in the mid 70's. I paid the same price for both $9.95. Continue to use them, but I have my own rules. No white gas, I have always just used no lead gasoline, many years later it became unleaded gas. A few suggestions, I climbed Mt Elbert (2nd highest mt in 48 states) in late January of 1977, at elevation, (10,000+) priming doesn't work well, or if temp is to cold, what I do is use a can of sterno. I light the sterno and hold the stove over the can until its warm, usually (if need be) it can be primed at that point. The sterno also was used prior to getting out of my sleeping bag to warm my mountaineering boots. (Not hot, just warmed enough to get your feet in). My SVEA123 did not have the internal needle, I had a little needle tool, that fit inside the stove. My other suggestion, always keep fuel in the stove, I was always nervous that it might not start ever again if it dried out.
Try setting the 123 in the sun to warm up then open the valve let enough fuel out to fill the cup. Close the valve. Use a fero rod to ignite the fuel and prime. Open valve again before the priming flame goes out to start stove. Another way is to hold the tank in your hands and warm the tank. And repeat priming procedure. You can put the Stove in your sleeping bag in the early morning to warm the stove so you don’t have to get out of your bag to make coffee. Just keep the flame low so it doesn’t engage your tent or tarp. You can also use alcohol jell to start the stove around nylon it’s an easyer way to control the priming fuel.
Cool thanks, Yeah keeping the bottom warm makes easy work of priming. I tested it again in my garage yesterday with temps into the 100s, it heated up quickly after a very short prime. I like the idea of the sleeping bag, so its ready for coffee in the AM right away :) I am going to find some alcohol gel too.
Just follow directions!! Light the fuel tank on fire, believe, and then it will be ready to cook! The 123 was built for adventurers, not lawyers or cartoonist.
Yes, yes, yes! 50 years ago this stove was often advertised/marketed as a 'bivouac stove.' That meant high altitude bivouac of the Alpine peak variety. Pre-warming in the sleeping bag, under the armpit or the crotch was the only way to go in order to build up a little pressure in the tank. Good, pertinent and useful comment. This stove has never needed primer paste or alcohol to get it going although it is a cleaner, less sooty method of pre-heating if you have room in your backpack for the stuff.
I used the pump/cap on my AT thru hike in 1983. About 1/3 of the way up the trail the cap malfunctioned which would not allow the tank to pressurize. I had a new pump and cap kit sent to me and these worked flawlessly to the end. The pump/cap combo makes the stove work much better in cold weather. The Optimus 8R is an upgrade as has a lower centre of gravity, folds up into a space saving square package, has a cleaner needle, and the flame adjustment knob won't burn your fingers.
I love mine. I have the original version aswell as the sievert 123 which is my favorite. I got several of the 123 r. All are very reliable. I been using my Optimus 199 and 99 a lot lately and my Borde.
I ended up going with the Optimus Terra Weekend HE Cook Set. Not only is the cook set pretty darn good and the heat exchange system boils way quicker but the stove fits inside the cook set perfectly and the lid is also a small pan as well. Neat little system. I did a video on it right after I got this stove.
I wish.. nope I got a Optimus Terra Weekend HE cook kit for it. Fits in it for storage and the heat exchange will help in cold conditions as well. Eventually if I can find a decent Sigg set, would love to pick it up
The 123 is worth a bit more to collectors than the 123R (the one I have) you could probably get around 100 to 120 for it on ebay if you found the right buyer.
Been using mine since the 1982 , high country of Colorado , cooked more meals than I can count . It has always worked . It has been stored for the past several years with fuel in it , pulled it out this morning and after priming it fired right up ! Made a cup of coffee and thought about my youth , hiking and hunting the high country !
My daddy gave me one for my 18th birthday (1980). I'm about to turn 60 and my little Optimus is still chugging along like a champ. I have not needed to clean the jet once in all that time - the self-cleaning design works.
I usually prime it with the windscreen already on. If you tip stove a bit then you can pour fuel into the moat with the windscreen on.
I have learned how to prime it in still air by burning the paper envelope of an instant oatmeal package. If there is any breeze at all then that trick becomes more difficult. When in doubt, slop a little extra priming fuel on it. (Don't do this trick in your tent - ALWAYS light out doors and away from sleeping bags, tents, etc) The flames may alarm your inexperienced friends but I've never started an unintended fire with it.
I was ready to retire my old brass buddy and buy a lighter stove recently. But after weighing everything and doing a lot of market research I found that the combined weight of stove, fuel, lightweight Sigg fuel bottle and my trusty old 1qt aluminum teapot is still competitive with any Jetboil or Whisperlight product for 2 people that I could find in 2022. So my old buddy has earned its place with my new (pretty) ultralight camping gear, and we're rocking on together to this day!
By the way, the old Sigg fuel bottles are quite a bit lighter than the MSR fuel bottles that they superficially resemble. MSR bottles are thicker walled because they are designed to be pressurized. I'm told Sigg doesn't make fuel bottles any more, but if you can find a used one then you can save several ounces of weight.
Steampunk was not a thing back when these stoves were first marketed. But with their all brass construction and classic old-school design, they do evoke a very steam punky vibe today. My younger camping friends who have never seen one tend to be impressed.
I've used my stove from sea level to 12,000ft, and in temps down to -15degF (that was at lower elevation near Lake Superior). I lost my instructions long ago and forgot about the suggestion to only fill the tank 3/4 full. I've been filling the tank all the way up to the brim for 40 years with no serious issues. It does belch a little more liquid fuel and make considerably bigger flames on startup if you fill the tank right to the brim. But it also let's you cook an extra meal or two on a single tank of fuel.
I bought one of the original Svea stoves from REI in Seattle around 1965, when it was still just a single "outdoors" retail store. I got it to go backpacking when I was in college. I still have it. I have not used it in decades, but it worked fine the last time out.
I've owned and used a number of these little jewels over my 61 yrs. My original from my early boy scout days is still in the family somewhere. I used to take a square of toilet paper and twist it into a wick. Dip it into the fuel tank to saturate with fuel then wrap around the burner stem. Never had a priming problem even at 11,000 ft. But don't forget to put the cap back on the tank b4 lighting. I won't mention how I know about that.
I bought an 8r model in 1983.. always primed with esbit... Stays cleaner! Nowadays...have a Coleman 442 and an msr firefly....
I did a whole lot of high altitude backpacking with the 123, and if you vented the fuel tank in Denver at 5300 feet and put the cap back on tightly, you could warm the stove enough with your hands at 12,000 to 14,000 feet to get fuel to flow down into the cup-no wicks or any of that stuff necessary.
I am 73 years old and have been using the Svea 123r since the 1960's. I figured out a neat way to start it. Just tear off a small piece of paper towel, toilet paper will not work. Roll it long ways between your fingers. Then open the fuel cap and dip the rolled paper towel into the ful and let it soak up some gas. Put the rolled paper towel in the preheating cup, being careful not to let it get near the fuel cap so you don't burn the o ring. Jut light it and open the vaqlve when it gets hot. That way you don't have fuel running down the outside of the stove.
Great stove! The OFF position is key turned fully clockwise.
Key turned fully counter-clockwise is to clean the orifice, but it is not sealed, and will leak fuel. And, if you leave it turned counter-clockwise, you risk damaging the cleaner pin/needle.
I bought my first Svea 123 in 1959, from a backpacking gear company in Denver. I bought another one in 1960 along with the Sigg Tourist cook set made for the 123, which (having replaced the fuel filler gasket once) is still going strong. I made the switch from white gasoline to Coleman fuel some time in the mid-1980s. Great stove!
I made these comments on your previous review of this. I like the idea of painting the key with bright nail polish and adding the cord. The chain is a pain when cooking. Like you said, ALWAYS remove the key when the stove is running!
I have added some carbon fiber felt weld/soldering pad in two places:
I cut a ring the size of the priming well to absorb the priming fuel and minimize spilling. I also cut a piece larger than the base diameter to set the stove on when using it in cold weather, allowing the tank to retain the heat better (like a hot pad). this easily tucks into the kit and reduces rattling as well.
A decent replacement cup is a Stainless Ozark Trail cup from Walmart. It's the same diameter of the original cup and has attached folding handles like the Optimus pieces.
A tip for priming is to put the pot support/shield on beforehand. Squirt the alcohol down into the bell, it will flow down to the priming cup. Lighting is easier since there is some fuel up near the lighter.
Resurrected my old stove. Thanks to your video I was able to use it. Started first up no problem after 40 years. It will be most useful when we have a power outage. It will outlive me.
MY first 123 I paid about $8 for in 1970. Rembert the the priming heats the fuel to pressurize it. Out in the field make sure the base is not on the cold ground. I carry asquare of cork to sit it on. Works great in temps above freezing. With practice you can use it at minus 20F. But don't go winter camping until you can make it work in cold temp. Always cook with a pot lid on to boil water to save fuel and heating time. Seva used to make a pump to pressurize the stove, but I never used one. For best results with any camp stove use a folding wind screen and paint the post black with stove paint. The gas cap has a pressure valve. In the event the stove over heats a flame will come out the vent and my damage the rubber gasket in the cap. Seva stopped making pressurized versions with different size gas tanks with a pump. They were real work horses. Using gas and a paper wick works great. Seva used to sell a past that in a squeezable tube to start the fire. I have heard of people leaving the cleaning needle up while running the stove and burned the needle off.
I once lit mine at -15degF during an emergency bivouac on the Lake Superior shore, Porcupine Mtns State Park. It was a little sluggish at first and took extra fuel to prime, but it worked like a champ to thaw drinking water when everything we had was frozen.
I have used this stove at 14,110 feet on Pikes Peak in the parking lot to make sloppy joe sandwiches. Have owned it since the sixties as a scout. It has every mile on it that I do. I don't always use it, but I do always take it with, just in case. Quality unit.
It’s a classic for sure! Keep in mind that in really cold conditions it’s hardER to get it to pressurize. They sold an aftermarket pump and cap to help in really cold conditions and it’s a very misunderstood accessory. The idea is to put a bit of pressure in it but not to pump it stiff like on a msr or coleman stove. Also, keep in mind that for optimal performance it should be insulated somewhat from snow and ice as this will cause the pressure to drop.
Interesting, so that is what that pump is for, I had no idea. Cool, thanks!
i did this back in the 80's. made an insulator out of ensolite foam that covered the bottom and sides of the tank. and yes, it seems like nobody knows how to use the midi pumps properly today. same with the optimus 111 and 22b new owners who don't know how many pump strokes are needed to light their stoves. in really cold conditions we used mautz fire paste (alcohol gel in a toothpaste tube) because it burned for a longer time than alcohol or white gas.
I’ve had that stove since 1985. I use the air pump with it. Never had a problem with it
Most of the demos of this fine stove leave out one useful feature. That is the pot supports at the top of the stove....By twisting these outwards it provides a bigger base to support the pans
Wow, I just re-watched the video, and I cant believe I never twisted them out! Totally forgot to show that. Thanks for spotting that.. I use them twisted out almost all the time.
Used a 8R (Hunter) for over 2 decades but switched to Trangia but i missed the old sound. So i bought a sevond hand Svea 123 and just used it. The coffee tastes extra good. :)) Love that thing allready.
Allready owned the Svea pump and special fillercap i used on my 8R so they will feel right at home on the Svea. :))
A great stove that I used for many years without fail.
Just watched your video, in March 2022. This is the backpacking stove, I always wanted. I never knew how to prime the stove until now! I have a knock off brand Svea in the box style, made by Tex-Sport? I bought when I was a kid, in the 80's. No instructions... I never could light that little bastard! 😡 I still have it, and will try and fire it up, one day.
Thanks for the instructional video!
I had an Optimus in the early 70s. Loved it. Paid $56.
Being born in the 1950's, I can recall seeing many of these "white gas" burning "Camp Stoves" as a kid and a young adult.
In fact, I don't recall ever seeing even the propane stoves before some times in the late 1970's or early 80's.
Some mount the chain for the key with one end to the brass case/stand instead to the burner. This eliminates the need to fiddle with the chain each time the case/stand is removed or put back on.
Your review was more informative about some things others did not mention. Thanks I bought one
Nice stove. The original designer was Sievert ("see-vert"), a stove and torch maker. Still exists today, still making gas torches. :)
Thanks for the demo.
your right that is one cool stove, a burn time of 1 hr on 4oz's of fuel excellent, thanks for the demo
Thanks, yeah I cant wait to do more videos with this one.
Really nice cool looking stove. Looks like something i would keep on the fireplace mantle instead of actually using it.
I know, right? Its a very cool looking little stove.
Collin Fletcher always said if you timed it right you could go from Prime to ignition
Ótimo vídeo Parabéns 👍
Just found my old stove from about 1979. Used video to find how to use it. Now I will try it out. Mine is aluminium and in a set with a couple of pans and the lid is like a sml frying pan.
Ty for talking me along
To?
I really like that stove.
Great review! Thanks!
Handy looking stove...thanks for sharing 😎
Amazingly the internal wick is still available for purchase.
I live in Cheyenne Wyoming, that type of stove was used alot by Boy Scouts in my area back in the early to mid 80s, and yes it will work at altitude, of at least 8000 feet.
P.S. There was at one time a pump you could get for that stove. Ah, that sound I know it well :)
Yeah I saw the pump, I was thinking about getting it as yet another way to prime the stove, I think it comes with a special cap as well. Thanks!
Iridium242 yes the cap you have now is the safety pressure relief valve cap. The pump cap also incorporates a non return valve that lets you pump air into the tank. I’m sure you’ve noticed that the output of the burner changes gradually after it’s lit. For example ‘high’ right after it’s lit is not as high as ‘high’ after ten minutes. When it’s really cold, that process takes longer. The pump is designed to give it a bit more ‘oomph.’ The tank will still build pressure on its own as it heats up. It’s important to not go overboard with the pumping... because then the cap safety valve might trip.
Thanks for sharing , nice stove !
I bought my SVEA 123 stoves in 1969(new) and a second at a yard sale in the mid 70's. I paid the same price for both $9.95. Continue to use them, but I have my own rules. No white gas, I have always just used no lead gasoline, many years later it became unleaded gas.
A few suggestions, I climbed Mt Elbert (2nd highest mt in 48 states) in late January of 1977, at elevation, (10,000+) priming doesn't work well, or if temp is to cold, what I do is use a can of sterno. I light the sterno and hold the stove over the can until its warm, usually (if need be) it can be primed at that point. The sterno also was used prior to getting out of my sleeping bag to warm my mountaineering boots. (Not hot, just warmed enough to get your feet in).
My SVEA123 did not have the internal needle, I had a little needle tool, that fit inside the stove. My other suggestion, always keep fuel in the stove, I was always nervous that it might not start ever again if it dried out.
Did you crack open yer tank cap to even pressure before ignition sir??
very cool stove
Use a lid, and it boils MUCH faster..
Great overview. Should the unused fuel be drained from the tank after use? Or does it seal up?
No, you can leave the fuel in the stove.
I endorse that answer.
Very cool stove.
Super Sweden stove!!! Like!!!
Try setting the 123 in the sun to warm up then open the valve let enough fuel out to fill the cup. Close the valve. Use a fero rod to ignite the fuel and prime. Open valve again before the priming flame goes out to start stove. Another way is to hold the tank in your hands and warm the tank. And repeat priming procedure. You can put the Stove in your sleeping bag in the early morning to warm the stove so you don’t have to get out of your bag to make coffee. Just keep the flame low so it doesn’t engage your tent or tarp. You can also use alcohol jell to start the stove around nylon it’s an easyer way to control the priming fuel.
Cool thanks, Yeah keeping the bottom warm makes easy work of priming. I tested it again in my garage yesterday with temps into the 100s, it heated up quickly after a very short prime. I like the idea of the sleeping bag, so its ready for coffee in the AM right away :) I am going to find some alcohol gel too.
Just follow directions!! Light the fuel tank on fire, believe, and then it will be ready to cook! The 123 was built for adventurers, not lawyers or cartoonist.
Yes, yes, yes! 50 years ago this stove was often advertised/marketed as a 'bivouac stove.' That meant high altitude bivouac of the Alpine peak variety. Pre-warming in the sleeping bag, under the armpit or the crotch was the only way to go in order to build up a little pressure in the tank. Good, pertinent and useful comment. This stove has never needed primer paste or alcohol to get it going although it is a cleaner, less sooty method of pre-heating if you have room in your backpack for the stuff.
I collect them, and their variants.
Just made a video of my Svea on my channel. A real Nice little stove! Great video!
In the 1980's you could buy a pump and cap to pressurize this stove for cold weather and altitude.
they still have them but they are more than I wanted to pay.. this works perfect as is so I never bothered to get one
I used the pump/cap on my AT thru hike in 1983. About 1/3 of the way up the trail the cap malfunctioned which would not allow the tank to pressurize. I had a new pump and cap kit sent to me and these worked flawlessly to the end. The pump/cap combo makes the stove work much better in cold weather. The Optimus 8R is an upgrade as has a lower centre of gravity, folds up into a space saving square package, has a cleaner needle, and the flame adjustment knob won't burn your fingers.
Can you prime it with alcohol instead of white gas? and is it leak proof to put in backbag when fuel in tank?
Yes I use alcohol now and its not leak proof, some will leak out of the burner area so I put it in a ziplock bag
Turn to the left to clean the jet and to the right to shut off.
I love mine. I have the original version aswell as the sievert 123 which is my favorite. I got several of the 123 r. All are very reliable. I been using my Optimus 199 and 99 a lot lately and my Borde.
The thing under your stove - is that a silpat?
Nice Svea 123R what cookset are you using ?
I ended up going with the Optimus Terra Weekend HE Cook Set. Not only is the cook set pretty darn good and the heat exchange system boils way quicker but the stove fits inside the cook set perfectly and the lid is also a small pan as well. Neat little system. I did a video on it right after I got this stove.
Hi, great video! Would you happen to know the dimensions of the windscreen from the indentation to the ring that reaches the base of the burner?
They’re have them on eBay.
Cool,. I will check. I looked a while back and there was nothing there
The ones available now are very good quality Chinese reproductions. Absolutely not trash, almost as good as the Swedish originals. I have one.
Did you get a Sigg Turist Set?
I wish.. nope I got a Optimus Terra Weekend HE cook kit for it. Fits in it for storage and the heat exchange will help in cold conditions as well. Eventually if I can find a decent Sigg set, would love to pick it up
I have one. What are they worth nowadays? Been meaning to slim down my stove collection.
The 123 is worth a bit more to collectors than the 123R (the one I have) you could probably get around 100 to 120 for it on ebay if you found the right buyer.
Iridium242 Yep, have the 123. Thanks for the info, my friend.
i saw the needle
That's what she said!
На каком горючем она работает
Я использую белый газ
@@Iridium242 белый газ ,что это такое первый раз слышу о таком