Thanks 👍 @Hungry Bird! We are always partial to our sanding machines, but it's the best one is the one that a professional has practiced with and feels at one with as they're sanding that floor! Cheers!
Hi Justin - If you experience grain raise then simply abrade the floor with a couple of stacked Conditioning Pads and 2-3 180grit Diamonds Discs to smooth it out. Vacuum, tack and put on your next coat. If the floor is stained, you might want to apply a coat of Sealer and one Finish before abrading the grain raise down to prevent burning through a single Sealer coat and taking off some Stain (that's a whole other problem). Hope this helps.
Hi Big Ern - Not sure that we took a shot at anyone; just being realistic that sanding and finishing is generally not a good DIY project. This trade is truly an art and science and real Craftsmen are definitely worth the investment - as a homeowner's wood floors are typically the third or fourth biggest investment they'll ever make (#1 home, #2 college, #3 wood floors). Glad you liked the video!
Hi Marco - Our 16" Tampico Brush is what we'd recommend for a 16" buffer as well - see it here: www1.bona.com/en-us/products/professional/machines/accessories/tampico-brushdcs-buffer-oldflexisand/ Hope that answers your question. Thanks!
Hi @Jo-xg6rk - The number of sanding passes required all depends on the condition of the floor. We just completed a video shoot on a 3,200sq/ft church, installing a white oak engineered unfinished product that only required 80grit for the first cut, and then finishing with 120grit before water-popping the floor back to accept a coat of DriFast Stain. Always start with the least aggressive grit that you can to get the floor flat, remove over/underwood, scratches, etc., then work through your progression from there, skipping no more than one grit for each successive cut - i.e. sand 40, skip 50, sand 60, skip 80, sand 100. Hope that helps to answer your question.
Hi Danny - The FlexiSand Buffer and Back Vac being run together will usually run just fine on a regular 15amp breaker - unless you're bearing down on the buffer or there's some long-term weakness in the breaker itself. Of course, running on the 20amp GFI breakers (typically kitchen and bathroom) will work great too.
Hi Adrian - It depends on the other specifics of the job. You might be able to finish out at 100 grit, or skip the 100 grit and jump straight to 120 grit. Depends on what your previous grit was (and is what you're using now taking out the scratches from the last cut)? Denser, more uniform color species (maple, BrazCherry) may need a tighter grit sequence because the scratches are harder to take out. Best judge is down on your hands and knees with a good, bright light source, looking for scratches. Hope that helps!
If you don’t take that wood down at to east 1/8 “ the end result will suck . When sanding floors they have to be near perfect while working on yer knees and eyes on close will see more than standing above so if you can get it to 90% good you will be good and a rotary sander at the end 120 grit at minimum will take out all the little scratch marks and be very beneficial . Been doing this way to long 🙄
Thanks for the comments, Hungry Bird! The amount of material needing to be removed to get a "brand new surface" really depends on the species, the depth of damage/scratches, and what stain/sealer/finish system you're trying to remove. More open grain species like red and white oak typically require deeper sanding because the grain sucks up the top products deeper and they'll scratch deeper as well. Brazilian Cherry on the other hand, tends to be so dense that you might only need to take off 1/32" to get a sparkling new surface to refinish. As a direct side-by-side comparison - we've had a number of red/white oak training floors that we'll usually get 7-8 sandings out of if we're lucky; while our Braz.Cherry training floors can withstand up to twice that many sandings before needing to be replaced. Hope that helps!
That’s a nice sander Bona 👍👍.
Thanks 👍 @Hungry Bird! We are always partial to our sanding machines, but it's the best one is the one that a professional has practiced with and feels at one with as they're sanding that floor! Cheers!
How do you recommend dealing with raised grain if you don't have a machine with a tampico brush attachment?
Hi Justin - If you experience grain raise then simply abrade the floor with a couple of stacked Conditioning Pads and 2-3 180grit Diamonds Discs to smooth it out. Vacuum, tack and put on your next coat. If the floor is stained, you might want to apply a coat of Sealer and one Finish before abrading the grain raise down to prevent burning through a single Sealer coat and taking off some Stain (that's a whole other problem). Hope this helps.
I love that you take a shot at people that can’t afford your service lol, great video though!
Hi Big Ern - Not sure that we took a shot at anyone; just being realistic that sanding and finishing is generally not a good DIY project. This trade is truly an art and science and real Craftsmen are definitely worth the investment - as a homeowner's wood floors are typically the third or fourth biggest investment they'll ever make (#1 home, #2 college, #3 wood floors). Glad you liked the video!
What size tampico brush do you recommend for a 16" buffer?
Hi Marco - Our 16" Tampico Brush is what we'd recommend for a 16" buffer as well - see it here: www1.bona.com/en-us/products/professional/machines/accessories/tampico-brushdcs-buffer-oldflexisand/
Hope that answers your question. Thanks!
So for an oak floor 3 sanding passes is enough...40, 60 then 100 grit.. thanks
Hi @Jo-xg6rk - The number of sanding passes required all depends on the condition of the floor. We just completed a video shoot on a 3,200sq/ft church, installing a white oak engineered unfinished product that only required 80grit for the first cut, and then finishing with 120grit before water-popping the floor back to accept a coat of DriFast Stain. Always start with the least aggressive grit that you can to get the floor flat, remove over/underwood, scratches, etc., then work through your progression from there, skipping no more than one grit for each successive cut - i.e. sand 40, skip 50, sand 60, skip 80, sand 100. Hope that helps to answer your question.
@@BonaProfessional fantastic... thanks very much for the detailed reply 👍
@@BonaProfessional brilliant, thank you very much 👍💪
how strong of a breaker would u use to run backpack and buffer together???
Hi Danny - The FlexiSand Buffer and Back Vac being run together will usually run just fine on a regular 15amp breaker - unless you're bearing down on the buffer or there's some long-term weakness in the breaker itself. Of course, running on the 20amp GFI breakers (typically kitchen and bathroom) will work great too.
good job!
Thank you!
is it okay to skip 120grit on the multidisc? instead of 100grit then 120grit?
Hi Adrian - It depends on the other specifics of the job. You might be able to finish out at 100 grit, or skip the 100 grit and jump straight to 120 grit. Depends on what your previous grit was (and is what you're using now taking out the scratches from the last cut)? Denser, more uniform color species (maple, BrazCherry) may need a tighter grit sequence because the scratches are harder to take out. Best judge is down on your hands and knees with a good, bright light source, looking for scratches. Hope that helps!
This is not for DIY, lot of high end tools. Thanks very pro.
Glad it was helpful!
If you don’t take that wood down at to east 1/8 “ the end result will suck . When sanding floors they have to be near perfect while working on yer knees and eyes on close will see more than standing above so if you can get it to 90% good you will be good and a rotary sander at the end 120 grit at minimum will take out all the little scratch marks and be very beneficial . Been doing this way to long 🙄
Thanks for the comments, Hungry Bird! The amount of material needing to be removed to get a "brand new surface" really depends on the species, the depth of damage/scratches, and what stain/sealer/finish system you're trying to remove. More open grain species like red and white oak typically require deeper sanding because the grain sucks up the top products deeper and they'll scratch deeper as well. Brazilian Cherry on the other hand, tends to be so dense that you might only need to take off 1/32" to get a sparkling new surface to refinish. As a direct side-by-side comparison - we've had a number of red/white oak training floors that we'll usually get 7-8 sandings out of if we're lucky; while our Braz.Cherry training floors can withstand up to twice that many sandings before needing to be replaced. Hope that helps!
Oh man you are so incredibly wrong