Margiela and Surrealism - Spring 2003
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Maison Martin Margiela runway show during Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 1991. We analyze every look in the collection to unpack the meaning behind the clothes of the most legendary Maisons in modern history.
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Special thanks to Vaniitas for taking beautifully detailed pictures of vintage Margiela. vaniitas.com
This idea behind "Fashion designers don't really design clothes" reminds me of a concept by Rainer Maria Rilke that he called something like "memory of the blood" (in Letters to a Young Poet, 1929) ; every artist has a passive memory fed by their experiences, influences and basically every life backgrounds that would go into their veins - what will then be transformed into their art
beautiful
The way you speak of Margiela, and his viewing of the ordinary through such a radical lens, draws into mind the delightful words of Georges Perec, who championed the analysis of the infra-ordinary:
"What we need to question is bricks, concrete, glass, our table manners, our utensils, our tools, the way we spend our time, our rhythms. To question that which seems to have ceased forever to astonish us. We live, true, we breathe, true; we walk, we open doors, we go down staircases, we sit at a table in order to eat, we lie down on a bed in order to sleep. How? Why? Where? When? Why?
Describe your street. Describe another street. Compare.
Make an inventory of your pockets, of your bag. Ask yourself about the provenance, the use, what will become of each of the objects you take out.
Question your tea spoons.
What is there under your wallpaper?
How many movements does it take to dial a phone number?
Why do you find cigarettes in grocery stores? Why not?
It matters little to me that these questions should be fragmentary, barely indicative of a method, at most of a project. It matters a lot to me that they should seem trivial and futile: that’s exactly what makes them just as essential, if not more so, as all the other questions by which we’ve tried in vain to lay hold on our truth"
This is my best comment I’ve read in a month, thanks so much for sharing that quote 💫💫
@@BlissFoster I'd recommend reading as much Perec as humanly possible! He's one of the most unique and original thinkers to exist. Other highlights include an entire novel written without the letter E, and another that doubles up as a 1000-word palindrome. It's all so fascinating, while also still incredibly fun!!
What books of his do you recommend to start with?
Thanks for that man awesome!
Someone already asked but in case you didn't see their reply, what books of Perec would you recommend as a first read?
5:43 this is the realest thing I’ve ever heard about fashion designers, I’ve always felt when I sketch that I’m coping another design till I realized that my brain vaguely puts together all the great designs that I’ve seen before
Because our mind can’t truly create anything ”new” we can only imagine things that already exist. So everything ”new” is just a combination of things you have seen because you can’t even think about things you have not.
@@karigrandii I guess that’s what keeps creativity going
I’ve been obsessing over Dali and surrealism lately, so this video came at a perfect time - so insightful and eye-opening as usual :)
A great example of the idea of subconscious is when classical music composers today say in the title of their piece "in the style of" and they name one of their favorite composers amd mostly the composer they've listened to the most even when creating the piece they didn't take anything particularly, simply their own vocabulary is soaked in that composer's style that when creating something it's gonna come out from that, some may even consider combining two separate things in a new way creativity sort of like the helmut lang + Margiela = off-white logo
Man I love clothes.
Currently, I'm trying to figure out if I want to chase a position in the fashion industry and if so where that could be. Thing is- I'm still pretty new to it, but your videos are really helping me in understanding more about this world, and also helping SO much in feeling like I am allowed to be passionately interested in this, despite not knowing all the luxury designers or being able to walk around wearing pieces with their names stitched on.
Thank you, Bliss.
this vid has changed my life man thanks a lot
oh my god this is my favourite episode, i find direct connections between the trompe loiel dresses martin did with duchamps ready mades as well... best content bless!
Such a profound video about fashion.
Bliss foster signature hand motion 🙏🤲👐🙏
2:16 Also the method of chalking is a way to copy garments and make patterns. you can place calico or paper whateva on the bit you want to copy and rub chalk and it marks out the shape and details!
your talent of explaining things of such complexity for us to understand is amazing. thank you for all your work. i'll be subbing to your patreon soon! definitely my fave fashion channel for a while now.
Thanks so much for the kind words and thanks a ton for the Patreon support 🙏🙏 both mean a lot to me 😌
Thank You Bliss
"Do you know what a Frottage is?"
Oh Bliss, you don't want to know.
Waking up at 6:30 am and watching some bliss
These videos give me life. Thank you for your service.
This is art and thought In general. We can only think about what we have already seen or known
Thanks Bliss
This was really informative Bliss it makes me really appreciate the intelligence and reference behind Martin's work
Japanese subtitles are very helpful! !
I would like Japanese subtitles to be added not only to this collection but also to other Martin Margiela collection commentaries! Many Japanese want it. Because we Japanese love Martin Margiela❤
Your comment about designers not truly designing clothes reminds me of something Julia Cameron expresses in the Artist’s Way. She explains that artists do not generate ideas but act as conduits for the ideas to make themselves known.
Love this episode! I would say the organic way art influences and evolves through time is what makes it utterly and deeply humanitarian. Reminds me of this younger artist Coco Capitán, who I discovered because of her collaboration with Gucci, funny enough. She’s one of those kind that sees the world with naive eyes and absorbs what she saw like a sponge. In one of her works there’s the lines:
“Everything is a copy of
A copy of
A copy of
An advert
That was a copy of
A copy of
A masterpiece
That was a copy of
A copy of
An original idea
That was a version of
A common thought”
She even created nuances with different distances in the words. She made ‘frottages’ of these words by layering them visually. I just think it’s wonderful.
great video!
I don’t know if this was a subject already mentioned in the comments or overall in the channel contents, but I have noticed that the masks models wore at the cafe de la gare 1st margiela runway, was probably a reference to Magritte’s famous painting « The lovers I», as Magritte was a part of the surrealist movement and thus probably inspired Martin
Beautiful piece!
Love this… nothing in isolation
Great video and great series!
Your point on fashion designers reminds me of Foucault’s Author Function.
I didn't expect you to own any Shinya Kozuka pieces!!!
Those are my favorite pants right now 😌
The idea that fashion designers don´t really design clothes, really shows up in this collection, has it seems it is a big reference to demna; not only the shoes but the glasses are really similar to the ones that demna is doing now, putting in perspective that in reality they are martin original designs
great video
This one’s really good?
Can I make a request? Can you review Thom Browne, history and his lates one, please?
Fire Spring 1 2023 Woman’s Wear 🔥⚡️
I tried making some sort of Creatch Cargo-workwear pants out of canvas, thinking I was ripping off Rick, but when I finished them the design was just like the tapered pants in Cyberpunk. I play the game and did it totally subconsciously lol...
1:58 - 9:17
Tldr: *Jeans, the DNA of the Sole*
I miss the tree you once had in the background.
Me too 😔
Hi I'm a new subscriber I've been watching your video for a while and I'm having a question that
Is it possible to be a creative director with fashion designing degree?
Btw love your work I'm learning alot thank you 💜💜
Yes it is. That’s the path that most fashion creative directors take. It’s worth noting that creative Director is the most desired position in the entire industry. You have to really hustle to get into that seat. But you can do it! 💫💫
Thanks for replying Love from India 🇮🇳🇮🇳
Love u bliss
3:04 potential to be an amazing meme
Its crazy to even think that Martin margiela most likely have watched one of your videos
I know people have sent these to him, idk if he’s watched ofc 😆
Broo when im a famous designer i will pay you all of my missed patreon contributions back! I promise!! But for now i really cant afford it, earning literally no money in a month.
6:16 « him »?
6:18 ☝🏽 I hate to be this guy. But light bulbs quite literally happened in a Vacuum.
I laid out an argument for mine, would you care to present some counter evidence? 💫💫
Sonia Delaunay anyone?
??
Damn I’m early
oh look, lycra boots. another item demna ripped from margiela.
I like art movements, those are so exciting, like Dadaism, Fauvism, Futurism and impressionism.. 🫠❤️🔥🍭
@Dethausla @dethaus