Been using the Andersen setup for 7+ years. Very happy with it. Noticed the cone was starting to slide out after a trip...about 1/8" or so. After watching this I see I don't have a problem...and if I did the video answered the mail on what to do. We tow a 3500 lb camping trailer. Have towed through all kinds of windy conditions and on 18-wheeler-filled highways with never a problem.
I agree with both you and Ca D, the ball doesn't come out as easily at portrayed in the video nor does the cone. I ended up using the hitch pin to knock it out. After replacing the cone the squeaking became a growling that sent vibrations through the frame of my 4Runner. Now I'm trying to get either a new ball assembly or an RMA to return everything. Like you, Jim, this is what I was told by Andersen: “The wear on the ball is normal as the ball and coupler initially 'mate' together.”
I just changed out my Cone and it was a breeze. I have the redesigned system with the white cone and it was easy out and easy in. In fact, I didn't even have to push that hard to seat the new ball. A couple of medium hits with a rubber mallet. It went down far enough to where I could easily get the ring on. Took me about 20 minutes ( or half a beer). Before taking it off, make sure you make a line before separating the ball to the ball housing so it will go back exactly where you took it off. I used a black marker. If you need a replacement, take a picture with a tape measure showing it exceeds the recommended distance and call Andersen. A rep will have you send them a picture to an email and you reply back with your address and they will send one out immediately, Free of charge. Took only 3 days for me to get one. The material seems to be a PVC tube but surprised at how warped they can get with all the weight and pressure on it. Hopefully they can come up with a better material.
I also wanted to add that the reason we have to replace it to begin with is because when you are hitching to your ball and lifting the back of your truck up to loosen tension, it is causing the cone to come up with it a little bit each time. The more the cone comes up, twice as much will come up the next, then more after that. I am talking millimeters. Say it may come up 1 milimeter one time, then 2 the next, then 4. I only put 500 miles on the hitch and already had to replace so I will have to figure out how not to pull the ball up too much every time I unhitch and hitch it.
Well let me tell ya your video is all good and fine with a new never been used hitch but there is no way pounding on a piece of wood is going to get the ball out of the hitch. I tried the wood and nothing was coming loose. Since someone already pounded on the bottom of my ball I went ahead and pounded on it, took over a dozen hits with a 3 pound single jack to get that sucker to come out. Then I like how your video shows how easy it is to get the cone out, ya right, my cone was stuck in the hitch and there was no edge to set the ball on and drive it out. Had to pry the top of the cone away from the hitch with a pair of channel locks to reduce the friction then grab it with the channel locks and jerk it out. Maybe you guys need to try following your video with a used hitch and lets talk about used hitches as I have about 2500 miles on my hitch and I had to replace the cone plus have more ball wear then I have seen in a standard hitch that has towed 20,000 miles. Ya I called to talk to you guys about it and all I got was a cone in the mail, called back to talk to someone and the lady said all was normal but she would have someone call me, well that has been 2 weeks ago and I haven't got a call so I guess I'm getting blown off. Wish I would have bought a real hitch instead of this one.
Jim, I, too, regret buying this piece of junk. My problem is that, when I back up even slightly out-of-straight-line, the cone part spins such that the holes are no longer parallel to the bumper. In other words, I have a hell of a time taking out the triangle (that's what I call it). If I am able to take out the triangle, then it is absolutely impossible for me to put it back on when it is time to leave, no matter what I do. Trust me, I trouble-shooted and tried every thing. I have to take it to a hitch guy and he uses this contraption to put the ball back in alignment. It costs me $50 every time I have to do that AND I cannot use the weight distribution or sway control at all. I have to bungee cord the triangle to the trailer and drive home with the ball only. Very dangerous. ALSO, I, like you, have been trying to call them. They NEVER return my calls.
@@niefbd If your holes won't line up loosen the chains until they do. Might have to take one chain completely off. Tighten the chain left hooked up to were it needs to be then move truck and trailer turning truck in the direction it needs to go so the other chain will reach. Why not remove the chains and triangle if you can't get it hooked up instead of towing with it tied up? I remove my chains all the time when trailer is stored, by the time your unhooked the nuts are loose and can be spun off with fingers.
@@jimsandall2073 Was thinking of buying this hitch - now having second thoughts - have you found anything better? I was suspect in this video when the dude hits the hitch with the mini sledge ONCE - nothing happens - then they cut away to it magically falling out.
@@kingofbytes I haven't had anymore issues with the Anderson but it's not very good as a weight distributing hitch. I have a ton of towing experiences and have my ball height set perfect with enough tow vehicle so I make due with the hitch because of its light weight. About any other good bar distribution hitch is way better and a lot more forgiving for an inexperienced tower and or marginal tow vehicle.
I want to replace my 2 5/16" ball with a 2" ball. However, both balls available on the site state they will not work with a black triangle plate. Where do I get one that does?
The first thing I noticed, no suggestion was made to wear eye protection... The second item, 2 pcs of different 2x4 were used in driving the ball out (go thru the video frame by frame).... Third, I agree with Mr. Sandall a video of changing out a used ball/cone would be helpful, I believe Anderson had a difficult time changing out a new ball/cone & that's why 2 pcs of wood were used. I'm about to go change out my cone.......................
Aluminum is actually stronger than steel because it actually flexes and gives versus breaking. Lbs for lbs aluminum is stronger. Many other manufacturers make theirs from aluminum too. Even 5th wheel plates and gooseneck balls.
@@testdrivetech ok, you keep telling that to the easily deceived folks , , i was raised on a small farm in north central maine , i have driven skidders , bulldozers, front end loaders , backhoes , harvestors , i'm ex army , combat engineer , drove truck over the road for 10 years until i was hurt in a car accident , rear ended by a twat on his phone , my late father in law drove truck , 2 brother in laws , and step dad all drove truck , ALUMINUM FAILS AFTER " FLEXING " TOO MANY TIMES , you are either the stupidest person in clas or you are the most naive , carbon steel , and alloys are far superior to aluminum , aluminum is brittle , it fatigues easy and earlier in it's life than steel , now , go fuck yourself
Thank God you were here to let us know you thought of a more simple design...I'm amazed at ones ability to not think for 1 second that they might be missing something. When the whole hitch is installed the ball is forced to twist back and forth in the event of trailer sway, the high friction helping to control it.
Been using the Andersen setup for 7+ years. Very happy with it. Noticed the cone was starting to slide out after a trip...about 1/8" or so. After watching this I see I don't have a problem...and if I did the video answered the mail on what to do. We tow a 3500 lb camping trailer. Have towed through all kinds of windy conditions and on 18-wheeler-filled highways with never a problem.
This video was perfect! I had doubts whether I could do this myself strength-wise but everything was answered on the video. No difficulties at all.
Okay, now I'm a happy camper with the Andersen Hitch Co. They sent me an e-mail saying a complete new housing was on it's way.
Thankfully u added to this thread. You had me worried. I just baught the hitch
I agree with both you and Ca D, the ball doesn't come out as easily at portrayed in the video nor does the cone. I ended up using the hitch pin to knock it out. After replacing the cone the squeaking became a growling that sent vibrations through the frame of my 4Runner. Now I'm trying to get either a new ball assembly or an RMA to return everything.
Like you, Jim, this is what I was told by Andersen: “The wear on the ball is normal as the ball and coupler initially 'mate' together.”
I just changed out my Cone and it was a breeze. I have the redesigned system with the white cone and it was easy out and easy in. In fact, I didn't even have to push that hard to seat the new ball. A couple of medium hits with a rubber mallet. It went down far enough to where I could easily get the ring on. Took me about 20 minutes ( or half a beer). Before taking it off, make sure you make a line before separating the ball to the ball housing so it will go back exactly where you took it off. I used a black marker. If you need a replacement, take a picture with a tape measure showing it exceeds the recommended distance and call Andersen. A rep will have you send them a picture to an email and you reply back with your address and they will send one out immediately, Free of charge. Took only 3 days for me to get one. The material seems to be a PVC tube but surprised at how warped they can get with all the weight and pressure on it. Hopefully they can come up with a better material.
I also wanted to add that the reason we have to replace it to begin with is because when you are hitching to your ball and lifting the back of your truck up to loosen tension, it is causing the cone to come up with it a little bit each time. The more the cone comes up, twice as much will come up the next, then more after that. I am talking millimeters. Say it may come up 1 milimeter one time, then 2 the next, then 4. I only put 500 miles on the hitch and already had to replace so I will have to figure out how not to pull the ball up too much every time I unhitch and hitch it.
Well let me tell ya your video is all good and fine with a new never been used hitch but there is no way pounding on a piece of wood is going to get the ball out of the hitch. I tried the wood and nothing was coming loose. Since someone already pounded on the bottom of my ball I went ahead and pounded on it, took over a dozen hits with a 3 pound single jack to get that sucker to come out.
Then I like how your video shows how easy it is to get the cone out, ya right, my cone was stuck in the hitch and there was no edge to set the ball on and drive it out. Had to pry the top of the cone away from the hitch with a pair of channel locks to reduce the friction then grab it with the channel locks and jerk it out.
Maybe you guys need to try following your video with a used hitch and lets talk about used hitches as I have about 2500 miles on my hitch and I had to replace the cone plus have more ball wear then I have seen in a standard hitch that has towed 20,000 miles. Ya I called to talk to you guys about it and all I got was a cone in the mail, called back to talk to someone and the lady said all was normal but she would have someone call me, well that has been 2 weeks ago and I haven't got a call so I guess I'm getting blown off. Wish I would have bought a real hitch instead of this one.
Jim, I, too, regret buying this piece of junk. My problem is that, when I back up even slightly out-of-straight-line, the cone part spins such that the holes are no longer parallel to the bumper. In other words, I have a hell of a time taking out the triangle (that's what I call it). If I am able to take out the triangle, then it is absolutely impossible for me to put it back on when it is time to leave, no matter what I do. Trust me, I trouble-shooted and tried every thing. I have to take it to a hitch guy and he uses this contraption to put the ball back in alignment. It costs me $50 every time I have to do that AND I cannot use the weight distribution or sway control at all. I have to bungee cord the triangle to the trailer and drive home with the ball only. Very dangerous. ALSO, I, like you, have been trying to call them. They NEVER return my calls.
@@niefbd If your holes won't line up loosen the chains until they do. Might have to take one chain completely off. Tighten the chain left hooked up to were it needs to be then move truck and trailer turning truck in the direction it needs to go so the other chain will reach.
Why not remove the chains and triangle if you can't get it hooked up instead of towing with it tied up? I remove my chains all the time when trailer is stored, by the time your unhooked the nuts are loose and can be spun off with fingers.
@@niefbd sad that 5 years after my post guys are still having issues with this hitch.
@@jimsandall2073 Was thinking of buying this hitch - now having second thoughts - have you found anything better? I was suspect in this video when the dude hits the hitch with the mini sledge ONCE - nothing happens - then they cut away to it magically falling out.
@@kingofbytes I haven't had anymore issues with the Anderson but it's not very good as a weight distributing hitch. I have a ton of towing experiences and have my ball height set perfect with enough tow vehicle so I make due with the hitch because of its light weight. About any other good bar distribution hitch is way better and a lot more forgiving for an inexperienced tower and or marginal tow vehicle.
I think a deadblow hammer (rubbered) would be more applicable. I was able to knock mine out without any wood.
I want to replace my 2 5/16" ball with a 2" ball. However, both balls available on the site state they will not work with a black triangle plate. Where do I get one that does?
Looks like I'll be getting a Reese after watching this.
The first thing I noticed, no suggestion was made to wear eye protection... The second item, 2 pcs of different 2x4 were used in driving the ball out (go thru the video frame by frame).... Third, I agree with Mr. Sandall a video of changing out a used ball/cone would be helpful, I believe Anderson had a difficult time changing out a new ball/cone & that's why 2 pcs of wood were used. I'm about to go change out my cone.......................
I was thinking a hydraulic bottle jack and a 2x4 would do the job, rather than using a sledge. Of course, I could be missing something...
This was my thought. I don't see why it would not work.
I was thinking the same thing, Also to seat it at the end so you can install the lock ring.
knowing that the ball mount is made of aluminum is all i need to know,,, i'll never have a piece of aluminum between my truck and trailer
Aluminum is actually stronger than steel because it actually flexes and gives versus breaking. Lbs for lbs aluminum is stronger. Many other manufacturers make theirs from aluminum too. Even 5th wheel plates and gooseneck balls.
@@testdrivetech ok, you keep telling that to the easily deceived folks , , i was raised on a small farm in north central maine , i have driven skidders , bulldozers, front end loaders , backhoes , harvestors , i'm ex army , combat engineer , drove truck over the road for 10 years until i was hurt in a car accident , rear ended by a twat on his phone , my late father in law drove truck , 2 brother in laws , and step dad all drove truck , ALUMINUM FAILS AFTER " FLEXING " TOO MANY TIMES , you are either the stupidest person in clas or you are the most naive , carbon steel , and alloys are far superior to aluminum , aluminum is brittle , it fatigues easy and earlier in it's life than steel , now , go fuck yourself
Why in the world do you need all that when you can make everything one piece ?
It's for sway control.
Thank God you were here to let us know you thought of a more simple design...I'm amazed at ones ability to not think for 1 second that they might be missing something. When the whole hitch is installed the ball is forced to twist back and forth in the event of trailer sway, the high friction helping to control it.