Adwest steering box leaking Replacing the low pressure seal (Correct video! Lol! )
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
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This video is produced for entertainment purposes only and Britannica Restorations nor Michael Wesson and/or guests featured in this video shall not, in any way or measure, be held accountable or responsible for any damages related to attempted repairs as pictured in this video.
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In 1971 I was a 17 year old GEC electronics apprentice at Raglan Street, Coventry when I was let loose on a lathe. That was the last time I used one too! 🙂🇻🇨
Demarcation was the word when I was a lad, there was a lathe in the shop, but you were not allowed to use it - even thought the training school taught you!
If you're watching this then I hope this will be of some help to you.
If you're low pressure seals in your steering box are bad it is probably because the pressure is leaking past the high pressure seals. If you turn the wheel and fluid squirts out it's not your low pressure seals that are bad. You can replace them but they're going to fail again as every land Rover owner knows.
Years ago I had a range Rover and bought a seal kit and redid it and it blew out a couple days later... The problem is in the design for the high pressure Teflon seals on the worm gear. Even if you get them new they are inferior quality and will always go bad. I posted a solution for this on a Land Rover forum years ago and the guy that sold the parts I used couldn't understand why he was getting orders from all over the world 🤣. I don't remember the part number so if you're steering gear is leaking and you're reading this this is what you will need to do to permanently fix it...
First, get yourself a low pressure seal kit cuz you're going to need that to finish it but you won't have to buy another one after that. Disassemble the steering gear. It's not as hard as you think and as far as special tools I ended up buying a plumbing nut that fit the access plug then put The nut in a vise and set the gear on top and turned it. Once you have a completely disassembled you'll see three high pressure Teflon seals on the worm gear that go into the boar. These keep the high pressure from getting to the low pressure side. Take the bore and the worm gear with the seals on it to a hydraulic shop. I took mine to Caterpillar because they were close to where I worked. I'm sure you can go anywhere. They're going to need the measure The outside diameter for the bore as well as the inside diameter of your ring races. What we settled on to fix mine was a combination Teflon ring and o-ring used for a hydraulic piston. You remove the Teflon seals off the shaft, apply some automatic transmission fluid and slide your o-rings into each of the races. Then you slide the Teflon rings over them and pop them on top of the o-rings. You will have to do it one of the time, o-ring and then Teflon ring and then put it in the next. The o-ring makes it squishy enough that you can get them into the bore and provides constant pressure against the Teflon ring and The Teflon ring applies the pressure to the bore. The setup is actually the same as what's inside of a hydraulic piston only the added benefit is yours don't move, they don't go up and down they just turn in place so they will last forever. Then you just reassemble and put your low pressure seals in and you won't have any more leaks. Added bonus and mind you this was back in 2006, The o-ring and Teflon seal only cost $0.50 a set. The low pressure seal kit cost $75. If you do this you will never have another leak from your steering gear. If you let Land Rover fix it It will leak again within a few months. I think they redesigned the steering gear box in 2012 so this will work on any of them from the '60s up to 2012 as it was the same POS leaking steering box in all of their s***.
As a 71 year old ex apprentice trained fitter / machinist, I have a 4/1/2 Boxford and a medium sized vertical mill in a 12 x 8 garden shed. If you have the room, which is always the decider when getting machinery that won't move very easily, I would go for it. Just having those sorts of tools makes you think differently when working on various projects. In the UK, the old fellas are dying off and the new kids have trouble putting a shelf on the wall. End of an era unfortunately.
I have no room as it is!
2:13 that circlip is a funny one needing a much smaller plier than any of my circlip pliers. As of yesterday I bought another pair to remove that circlip. Pleased i did as it removed the circlip in the first attempt in one go with one hand.
Fancy a lathe myself. Just space, time and money that I'm struggling with. Nice job on the steering box.
Yeap - no space or tools or experience! JP can rattle a job off quicker than I can explain it! Some of the measuring tools are C$1,000's! More to it than turning a bit of metal!
Great job Mike. Please buy a Lathe machine. 🤣
That would make some great video 👍
Maybe one day!
Hey mike i need to replace some power steering lines at the box end. Had me thinking if the leaks there were from the line and not the box itself. As i have the motor suspended do you think i could get the power steering box to leak if i connect it to a rotating source like a drill for a period of time? With the serpitine belt route it looks like i would need to rotate the pump anti clockwise on the 300tdi
You could turn the pump with a drill, BUT you will only create flow - not pressure
Pressure is generated when the steering is turned - and that can be up to 1,000psi! So you will need pretty strong arms to hold onto that drill!
This is why my test bench has a 3 hp motor on it with massive torque
🐨nice one m8 👍 that will be another satisfied customer 👌
💂
Well done, Mike. I'm out here on the prairies, working on D2's and the occasional LR3. I see leaking steering boxes quite often. Do you have a place you'd recommend for getting the necessary seals?
I get my stuff from LR direct
I did it on the vehicle and it was hell, especially removing the seal. After that I thought I could just remove the circlip, reinstall the shaft then start the engine and rotate ths wheel to the end to let the pressure pop out the seal for me. Think it could work?
I suppose so - going to be very messy!
Can someone clarify the seal part number please for the box with metal cover on...and can this be done in situ?I've only just fitted the box