The oil in the intake is from the pcv that comes from the tappet cover and goes to the air intake near the air filter. These engines drown in oil unless an oil catch can is fitted. Your egr looked like it was inoperative. Should be a shiny bit on the shaft in there. Also that is not a throttle body but a shutoff valve. Fueling is all done by the injection
The flappy bit is the throttle body. With an EGR system a diesel needs a throttle body to limit the amout of air coming in through the intake to offset the exhaust gases coming from the EGR system. The more the EGR opens the more the throttle will close, it's also used as a safety shutoff.
Should the flappy bit be open or closed? Mine is closed when engine is not running. Currently experiencing reduced engine performance and black smoke from exhaust (failed MOT) changed all intercooler pipes and issue still there. Have got a new turbo on the way to swap out, however I'm thinking could it be EGR valve?
@@silveryfox69 Black smoke is a symptom only if the EGR valve is stuck open. The first thing you should try is to take out the EGR and clean it -- it's a common problem to have carbon built up on the valve and it being unable to move. On a shut off engine the throttle body being closed is normal.
Just working through this on my 2005 T5 174 axe...... What a nightmare started to go into limp a couple of months ago... Going into limp on long hills in high gears, was like it didn't like holding the boost for too long, around town you could drive it hard, but motorways or medium to long inclines it'd go into limp, could always restart instantly though Had it diagnosed in a garage id used for years, they tested the n75, the vacuum lines, the boost sensor/map sensor, to no availand finally said it has to be the turbo..... It wasn't ffs, they then said they found a small hole in the intercooler but didn't think that'd cause it so we parted ways 😡....2nd garage... Vw specialist, changed the intercooler and boost sensor but no fix🙄.... Checked all the usual stuff couldn't find anything, we then used it on the nc 500 for 2 weeks😱, just got back, 2000 mls, must of had 50 limp modes...... Just tried to not go over 2k on long drags and just got down into 4th or 5th and just on/off the throttle to keep it just under limp activation 😩, going in again next week for another go at it, garage saying could be an ecu fault 🤔🤔🤷🏻♂️......... Can n75s give intermittent faults, as during this saga it first had overboost.... Then apparently underboost.... Latest before we used it for Scotland (no way i was letting my wife down, she'd worked to hard planning n booking multiple campsites) it was showing "boost value deviation"...... Just hope we can fix it, we've owned it 13 years now and put a very expensive pop top roof in it over last Christmas.... Any advice or pointers,, pleeeeeease shout out 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻, cheers if you read all that 👍🏻
Good luck mate. In my 07 T5 AXE the boost issues were due to sticky vanes in the turbo. A bit of oven cleaner up the turbo outlet and some 'turbo cleaner' fuel additives bought me ~6 months, before the issue came back. It's a common issue unfortunately.
Hi Kevin thank you for your comment. In this instance the issue was resolve with the new boost sensor. I’m going to remove the intake fully for further investigation and cleaning
You've just described the exact same problem I'm having with my T4 only I can't find the problem and I don't want to just keep throwing money at it replacing the latest thing someone says to do in these videos and there are plenty of them but none saying they've solved it! Lets see if yours does.....
Yeah, I wrecked my MAFF sensor catch trying to get it off, REALLY pissed me off at how stupid a design it is with NO explanation until I find yours. Zip tie holding the thing on now. I'm going to hazard a guess you're young, watching you trying to get that apart has an old timer like me screaming at the screen how to do it! Always use a drift between the hammer and the job, a short length of round brass rod or piece of hardwood, never hit the job direct with a hammer, even a rubber hammer. As for splitting a joint, try a knife blade tapped into the joint with a small hammer, a craft knife blade is very good. I sharpened a couple of old cheap screwdrivers to give a long shallow taper. But to be perfectly honest I can't see why the VW vans have their iconic status, not the recent models anyway, they seem to be loaded with problems, I even had a garage owner say he gets more VW's in for repairs than any other, I think I'm beginning to see what he meant. I cut my teeth on pre computer vehicles and am seriously thinking of getting an old Ford Transit ! At least if they have a problem you can diagnose it without the need for a scanner and fix it without too many expensive specialist tools. I'd like to meet the idiot designer at VW who put the slave cylinder in with the clutch.... a simple leak cost me £1500 for a new clutch to be fitted ffs!
THANKS, great video. I also had badly seated pipes but sadly not the cause so a new sensor is ordered. If that doesn't fix it I'll bite the bullet and look at the erg thingy. Re: the brown wire I don't have one on my 1.9 T5 did you track it down?
Glad it has helped and hopefully the sensor will sort out your issue, in the end I also had a faulty maf sensor and now the van runs so nice and pulls good again. Brown wire is only on some models and traces back to the J519 central electric under dash
The oil in the intake is from the pcv that comes from the tappet cover and goes to the air intake near the air filter. These engines drown in oil unless an oil catch can is fitted. Your egr looked like it was inoperative. Should be a shiny bit on the shaft in there. Also that is not a throttle body but a shutoff valve. Fueling is all done by the injection
Thank you for the information, a catch pan was fitted to this van before sale
The flappy bit is the throttle body. With an EGR system a diesel needs a throttle body to limit the amout of air coming in through the intake to offset the exhaust gases coming from the EGR system. The more the EGR opens the more the throttle will close, it's also used as a safety shutoff.
Should the flappy bit be open or closed? Mine is closed when engine is not running. Currently experiencing reduced engine performance and black smoke from exhaust (failed MOT) changed all intercooler pipes and issue still there. Have got a new turbo on the way to swap out, however I'm thinking could it be EGR valve?
@@silveryfox69 Black smoke is a symptom only if the EGR valve is stuck open. The first thing you should try is to take out the EGR and clean it -- it's a common problem to have carbon built up on the valve and it being unable to move.
On a shut off engine the throttle body being closed is normal.
Just working through this on my 2005 T5 174 axe...... What a nightmare started to go into limp a couple of months ago... Going into limp on long hills in high gears, was like it didn't like holding the boost for too long, around town you could drive it hard, but motorways or medium to long inclines it'd go into limp, could always restart instantly though Had it diagnosed in a garage id used for years, they tested the n75, the vacuum lines, the boost sensor/map sensor, to no availand finally said it has to be the turbo..... It wasn't ffs, they then said they found a small hole in the intercooler but didn't think that'd cause it so we parted ways 😡....2nd garage... Vw specialist, changed the intercooler and boost sensor but no fix🙄.... Checked all the usual stuff couldn't find anything, we then used it on the nc 500 for 2 weeks😱, just got back, 2000 mls, must of had 50 limp modes...... Just tried to not go over 2k on long drags and just got down into 4th or 5th and just on/off the throttle to keep it just under limp activation 😩, going in again next week for another go at it, garage saying could be an ecu fault 🤔🤔🤷🏻♂️......... Can n75s give intermittent faults, as during this saga it first had overboost.... Then apparently underboost.... Latest before we used it for Scotland (no way i was letting my wife down, she'd worked to hard planning n booking multiple campsites) it was showing "boost value deviation"...... Just hope we can fix it, we've owned it 13 years now and put a very expensive pop top roof in it over last Christmas.... Any advice or pointers,, pleeeeeease shout out 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻, cheers if you read all that 👍🏻
Has anyone done a smoke test on it? Sounds like you have a boost leak? And black smoke on acceleration?
@@alfjobharris3078 yes, smoke test done early on in diagnosis, all air tight..... No black smoke........ No smoke at all
Helped me a lot mate cheers
Good luck mate. In my 07 T5 AXE the boost issues were due to sticky vanes in the turbo. A bit of oven cleaner up the turbo outlet and some 'turbo cleaner' fuel additives bought me ~6 months, before the issue came back. It's a common issue unfortunately.
Hi Kevin thank you for your comment.
In this instance the issue was resolve with the new boost sensor.
I’m going to remove the intake fully for further investigation and cleaning
Do a EGR delete and it won't get clogged up again after cleaning. Most of the VAG engines seem to suffer from this EGR issue with clogging up.
You've just described the exact same problem I'm having with my T4 only I can't find the problem and I don't want to just keep throwing money at it replacing the latest thing someone says to do in these videos and there are plenty of them but none saying they've solved it!
Lets see if yours does.....
Yeah, I wrecked my MAFF sensor catch trying to get it off, REALLY pissed me off at how stupid a design it is with NO explanation until I find yours. Zip tie holding the thing on now.
I'm going to hazard a guess you're young, watching you trying to get that apart has an old timer like me screaming at the screen how to do it!
Always use a drift between the hammer and the job, a short length of round brass rod or piece of hardwood, never hit the job direct with a hammer, even a rubber hammer.
As for splitting a joint, try a knife blade tapped into the joint with a small hammer, a craft knife blade is very good. I sharpened a couple of old cheap screwdrivers to give a long shallow taper.
But to be perfectly honest I can't see why the VW vans have their iconic status, not the recent models anyway, they seem to be loaded with problems, I even had a garage owner say he gets more VW's in for repairs than any other, I think I'm beginning to see what he meant. I cut my teeth on pre computer vehicles and am seriously thinking of getting an old Ford Transit ! At least if they have a problem you can diagnose it without the need for a scanner and fix it without too many expensive specialist tools.
I'd like to meet the idiot designer at VW who put the slave cylinder in with the clutch.... a simple leak cost me £1500 for a new clutch to be fitted ffs!
Thanks! Really informative
Thanks for this just done mine, your video was very helpful.
Did it work after! I’m having exactly the same issues on my 2.0 transporter. Done loads of the tricks and cleaning next job is egr off
Yip van running sweat
THANKS, great video. I also had badly seated pipes but sadly not the cause so a new sensor is ordered.
If that doesn't fix it I'll bite the bullet and look at the erg thingy.
Re: the brown wire I don't have one on my 1.9 T5 did you track it down?
Glad it has helped and hopefully the sensor will sort out your issue, in the end I also had a faulty maf sensor and now the van runs so nice and pulls good again. Brown wire is only on some models and traces back to the J519 central electric under dash
Hi, what model of engine do you have, how many horsepower?
Was a 1.9, van sold now and onto next project
"Limp mode" is basiclly exhtorsion
EGR DELITE