Two 12 volt batteries, or a 24v lead acid pack in this case, is pretty dead at exactly 24v. A well charged 12v lead acid battery should be anywhere from 12.7v to 13.2v at rest. Which for a 24v battery, should be between 25.4v or 26.4v. Your UPS was right in saying the battery was basically dead, hah! Depending on how long those batteries were sitting at that dead state, they actually could be toast, as Lead Acid batteries pretty much eat themselves if they are left discharged for long. I will say the way it surged the power was odd. Anywho, off to part two! Cheers!
One really important step that every UPS owner should do...open them up and RIP OUT the dang buzzer. Nothing worse than a power outage in the middle of the night and hearing that until the battery dies. I have 10 units in my house and every one has been neutered. Can't stand that sound!
I've got the same or similar issues. New battery, fully charged but output when grid is down is only 89.7 volts per my meter, even though the display says its producing 109 volts. That much discrepency is suspect. Something to do with the onboard volt meter is skewed and perhaps causing the unit to shut down on low voltage. I've tried to access troubleshooting and as you stated the manual is somewhat useless. I have no error codes. Old battery in, unit just shut down with zero volts reading while unit was plugged in to working grid current. I think these problems are related (your's and mine both) and have something to do with the voltage sensor on the control board. Could be a crack in the solder etc. Now mine does work with the new battery charged fully but with only 89.7 volts output which is not good for electronics, motors etc. I assume, like I said problem is more than likely on the main board and perhaps a crack in the solder or other component malfunction. I have the BX1350 which is the same unit with larger output watts. I plan on watching part 2 to see if you come up with any clues.
I have a APC 1500G UPS system and I thought you have to have the green side facing you to connect the batteries to the UPS system, The red side facing up or at you I thought was just for transporting the batteries inside the unit?
@ 7:01, it does appear to be a lug mount NTC thermistor. F07 is the error I get on mine. It may be hard to determine what the replacement might be if the thermistor does not function and there are no markings on it. Of course that may not be the actual problem that led up to the unit giving that error message. I need to get mine apart and find out. Taking a good unit apart and measuring the thermistor in it might give a hint if I do not discover other obvious reasons why it is not working. Schneider electric will either tell me to buy a new UPS or play in the street or they may not even know.
Part 2 now live ruclips.net/video/HiSjL3_0thg/видео.html
Setting the playback speed to 1.5x normal helps move this video along at a good pace.
Two 12 volt batteries, or a 24v lead acid pack in this case, is pretty dead at exactly 24v. A well charged 12v lead acid battery should be anywhere from 12.7v to 13.2v at rest. Which for a 24v battery, should be between 25.4v or 26.4v. Your UPS was right in saying the battery was basically dead, hah! Depending on how long those batteries were sitting at that dead state, they actually could be toast, as Lead Acid batteries pretty much eat themselves if they are left discharged for long.
I will say the way it surged the power was odd. Anywho, off to part two! Cheers!
One really important step that every UPS owner should do...open them up and RIP OUT the dang buzzer. Nothing worse than a power outage in the middle of the night and hearing that until the battery dies. I have 10 units in my house and every one has been neutered. Can't stand that sound!
I did this on my APC unit. Thankfully my Tripp-Lite units have mute function and they stay muted.
I've got the same or similar issues. New battery, fully charged but output when grid is down is only 89.7 volts per my meter, even though the display says its producing 109 volts. That much discrepency is suspect. Something to do with the onboard volt meter is skewed and perhaps causing the unit to shut down on low voltage. I've tried to access troubleshooting and as you stated the manual is somewhat useless. I have no error codes. Old battery in, unit just shut down with zero volts reading while unit was plugged in to working grid current. I think these problems are related (your's and mine both) and have something to do with the voltage sensor on the control board. Could be a crack in the solder etc.
Now mine does work with the new battery charged fully but with only 89.7 volts output which is not good for electronics, motors etc. I assume, like I said problem is more than likely on the main board and perhaps a crack in the solder or other component malfunction.
I have the BX1350 which is the same unit with larger output watts. I plan on watching part 2 to see if you come up with any clues.
I have the same unit. I accidentally reversed polarity of the battery when connecting for testing. Is there a fuse on the circuit board?
I have a APC 1500G UPS system and I thought you have to have the green side facing you to connect the batteries to the UPS system, The red side facing up or at you I thought was just for transporting the batteries inside the unit?
Yeah the pack will only connect one way. Usually they ship new UPS's with the batteries disconnected.
Is the device online and is the device clean or not? Thank you
F07 is temperature overheat. .. the thermistor was likely cooked in the battery compartment. The batteries will vent when they die.
@ 7:01, it does appear to be a lug mount NTC thermistor. F07 is the error I get on mine. It may be hard to determine what the replacement might be if the thermistor does not function and there are no markings on it. Of course that may not be the actual problem that led up to the unit giving that error message. I need to get mine apart and find out. Taking a good unit apart and measuring the thermistor in it might give a hint if I do not discover other obvious reasons why it is not working. Schneider electric will either tell me to buy a new UPS or play in the street or they may not even know.
Now that were further along in the video why didn't you let the battery charge up first all the way???
Looking forward to part 2
as you requested.....ruclips.net/video/HiSjL3_0thg/видео.html
What is the value of R208 near the buzzer?
Not sure. I don't have that UPS anymore to test it.
Those are good but i will used inverter pure sine wave with 12volt deep cycle battery 150A
Not sure what’s wrong with my system, but since I got it, I will only run on the battery and not switch to A/C power
Troubleshooting and drinking beer don't mix.
The key is moderation ;)
How old is that power strip
The gray one in the back is old, the off white one is from Radio Shack so...its at least a couple years old.
thanx dude
tell us your secrets xaxaxaxaxa
All close ups are too much. Need some wide angle views.
I have parts for this if anyone is interested