Centerlock vs. 6-Bolt Brake Rotor Comparison
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- In this video, I go over how brake rotor size effects performance, the difference between 1-piece & 2-piece rotors & Hope floating rotors, and an in depth comparison between centerlock and 6-bolt (IS2000) rotors.
The rotors that I run!
Centerlocks:
203mm Shimano Freeza Front www.amazon.com...
180mm Shimano Freeza Rear www.amazon.com...
6-Bolt:
180mm Simano Icetech F/R www.amazon.com...
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Re: 6 bolt... Quality tools make a difference.
Yeah, if you manage to strip a torx bolt, you are either using the wrong tools, or too small a torx wrench...
Also: Torx or hex bolts can easily be torqued correctly with a standard torque wrench and the correct bit, this is a lot harder for centerlock.
Great point about the rotor rocking and where to set it. I made that mistake so this is very useful info! Thanks.
A big reason to get centerlock is that i remove the rotors when
1) i wash the bike
2) i lubricate the bike
3) i give inspection o maintenance to the hubs
Great video, FYI bolts rely on clamping force to keep the joint together hence the clocking is irrelevant. It is very common for bolted connections to have clearance holes around them. Also never heard anyone say 'Not a fan a torque wrench because they are sloppy'. Most people over tighten bolts by hand !
You also have more brake power due to the increase in leverage on the wheel, that's the main reason to use big rotors on DH or Enduro application.
Exactly. That's why bigger rotors bite better.
Thank you! So many fail to understand its a direct mathematical relationship. 10% bigger rotor means 10% more braking force
@@SeaCowsBeatLobsters That is because the leverage increases with the radius. So if you want the maximum braking power go for a four piston caliper (like the BR-MT520) combined with a 203 or even a 220 mm rotor. And if you want to push it even further, go for the Magura four piston caliper, this combo is called a Shigura.
The secret of a Shigura combo is the bigger amount of fluid being pumped by the Shimano lever compared to the original Magura lever AND the bigger diameter of the Magura caliper pistons compared to the Shimano caliper pistons.
Nothing currently on the market beats the bite of a Shigura!
@@ralfrufus6573 Also Hope has a 225mm rotor
this guy (in the vid) really doesn’t know what he’s talking about. he says that there is a safety issue with center lock 😂
The combined weight of my large frame Bosch mid-drive bike and commute items are 300lbs. I am currently running a 180 front/ 160 rear. I live in super-hilly San Franciso. I am going to 203mm.
Thanks for the most excellent and professional presentation.
Another useful video. Learned something new about "clocking" the rotors. Keep the good vids coming!
Great infotainment! Just swapped my discs today, so this came in handy! Love your channel, keep up the good work!
Hey man just got on to your videos, they are great!
I see this channel going places like with "Seths Bike Hacks" I was one of the early subs and watched it grow
Keep doing what you are doing mate, develop your own style and I wish you great success
Thanks Lucas! I'm definitely trying to find my own style and to mix it up. It's so awesome to hear feedback like this and to know the channel is on the right track. Cheers brother 🍻
hey man, hopping onto this "style" topic here. I reckon you have a good setup going here, when you look at all the other MTB youtube boys, they're all pretty big jamokes when it comes to pro mechanic stuff, i mean seth rides a diamonback FFS.
There are a lot of us mechanic nerds/aspiring racers that love this nitty gritty detail oriented tech stuff, so keep that coming. You're a good rider and all, but don't get too bogged down in the gimbal POV stuff, there's already like 12 channels doing that. Keep the pro tech and pro racer stuff coming, you're really the only one doing that at the moment.
That's exactly right, I'm a huge nerd when it come to bike tech, would love to see more content like that, as well as vlogs of your races or mechanical stuff you do
Alex Rosenberry If you were such a "mechanic" you wouldn't care so much about brand.
what? Why not? Most mechanic/tech nerd guys are more opinionated about brand than anyone else.
You're not any less of a mountain biker for riding a DB, but there's a reason you don't see tech nerd guys and aspiring racers and privateers out there riding diamonbacks even when they're often the cheapest option
I can honestly say with 27 years experience in the cycle trade that I've never had a problem with misaligned 6 bolt rotors as you mention. If they're torqued correctly and you use thread-lock on the bolts they'll never come loose. Also a 6 bolt rotor shouldn't damage the bolts if they're correctly tightened, as the rotor shouldn't move. When fitting a 6 bolt rotor you should twist the rotor clockwise before tightening to make sure that it is resting against the bolts.
In my experience any rotor that has rivets in it has a reduced life span, compared to a one-piece steel rotor. That means any floating rotor, or anything with a splined fitting. 6 bolt fitting is the best as you can use a one-piece rotor that won't need replacing when the rivets inevitably work loose.
There's no point in spending the extra money on floating rotors for most people as they're only needed for applications where heat build up is common (downhill/enduro for example).
I find it interesting that the fittings of rotors have changed over the years. Hope originally had a 6 bolt fitting for its first generation brake (which you had to buy with the hub) and then swapped to a splined fitting. The Big'un hubs had their own unique 5 bolt format. Now they're back to a 6 bolt fitting. Shimano have gone the other way - from a 6 bolt fitting to splined.
Aside from the crappy torx driver I was shuddering at the lack or a torque wrench. If you're stripping torx you'r probably over tightening them. Thread lock and then torque to spec, which is a lot less than some shade tree's guesstimate.
I find that using a little cordless impact driver prevents any bolt stripping. Its easy to hold perpendicular to the rotor and apply enough down pressure to keep the bit in the bolt head
@@SeaCowsBeatLobsters Are you serious? An impact driver for
@@chocolate_squiggle yah. One with 1/4" hex drive and 12v battery. Ive found it to be comparable to the torque I can apply with a park tool 3-way
Really helpful and informative video...If you do another live stream I would focus on just a few items and limit questions to those...I have yet to see anyone control many people and many different questions. With your MTB videos the two together will increase your viewership! Good luck and I'll keep watching!
Hello Alex! Big and warm THANK to you for this very good and excellent information and the hacks and the instructions too that help me out when I am about to upgrade my disc rotor and brakes that needs to be considered by my new wheels set from DT Swiss Carbon XRC 1250 wheelset with the center lock/adapters for 6-hole rotors as well. Your information was spot on for my need right now so you made my a great favour by posting this also interesting and well done YT Video! Wishing you safe and happy riding always! Best Regards, Charl (Sweden)
Shimano Rt-99 is the best rotor there is: centerlock, easy to fit, manage heat extremely well, very hard to warp, bling factor and of course it's not expensive online. I use the same for both MTB and road bikes.
"Power because of less heat" is wrong. At least if you translate "Power" to braking power!
The main reason for bigger diameter is the more torque you can transmit onto the wheel with the same given (fixed) clamping power from the caliper!
This is vector calculation.
Heat can be an issue, but not really in bicycle brakes. This is a real issue in Cars, where diameter is the key and size of material (thickness of the disk) and ventilation (heat) is for reducing heat and lifetime
Sorry but heat can be a problem for bicycle brakes. I've seen many people with 'cooked' brakes where the pad surfaces have melted and the rotors have got so hot that the surface is blackened due to high-temperature oxidation. You can actually make the rotors get red-hot in certain circumstances.
I forgot the most obvious thing which is leverage 😂 my bad...
Xesh001 I was reading and thinking that his explanation is coming from a book not actual practice.
Yes. Heating is a big, BIG issue. Try to brake +2000 m down at +60-70 km/h...
Super great video: just what I needed. The new MAVIC tubeless wheel/tyre system here I come. Thanks.
Very cool, thank you for all the information! Enjoy your rides man!
Great vid, all questions answered and more! Oh, and cheers😀
In the bike shop I used 2 work at, we took the centerlock rotors with the freeza discs and removed the Centerlock stuff and then milled in a kind of notch to flatten everything for using 6 bolt hubs and then drilled in the holes of the bolts. Works pretty decent in deed
Leo Löff sketch 😂😂😂😂
I can send U a pic the next time I am in the shop, but it's basically quite simple. You just need to mill out enough material that the rotor doesn't hit your fork, but can still handle the 6 bolts needed for the assembly and then you need to carefully drill in the holes. Okay it's quite alot of work, because the drills have to be in the same line and must be equally far away fro the center so that the rotor isnot out of round radially. We do this on expensive custom builds (Liteville, Cannondale, Nicolai, Santana etc...)
Just found your channel, and I need to learn more about my bike to get the most out of it. Subbed!
Do you think one day they will make centerlock the common brake rotor? Because it seems like the pros out weigh the cons.
Wow. That gave all the info I was wondering about, and a lot more that was super useful.
FYI get the 20-100nm torque wrench from your local tool store or an online wholesale supplier. much cheaper price points on the range of products compared to branded bike tools. at least in NZ anyway.
That's super cool dude, it's nice to see someone in my realm making RUclips videos, I never make them because everyone seems like a, "pro broadcaster" type. Additionally, before this video, I would have been like, "NAH 6 BOLT"; but you really made some valid points! Good video!
the reason you see all the play with the torx head is the poor quality bolt. it has nothing to do with the design of the head. the QC on the torx bolts is pretty bad and what you see is nothing more than trash bolts.
the torx head was designed to limit/stop cam out unlike flat or philips heads which were designed to cam out to prevent over tightening. a T25 torx head has a torque limit range of 140in lbs to 168in lbs. a quality torx bolt will not allow a bit to wiggle around like that.
Yep, quality Torx drivers and fastenings that are made to the correct tolerances are excellent
The most commen thing I see is that people use a torx size too smal (T25 on aT30 bolt), you can do this but it feels like the bolt is worn out
It's the first time I see someone complain about Torx :) , in my opinion, on my KTM motorcycles, they're the only bolts I don't break. Also, if you fasten them, use your tool's longest lever, not the short one. Using the long side on this type of tool will prevent you turning the bolt at a bad angle. Using the longest side, you can position it better at a 90 degree angle. Hex bolts are far worse. One you over-tighten them, using a slightly worn tool, it will turn the head of the bolt useless very fast.
OxBlitzkriegxO this guy is wrong it’s a T27 use the right tool for the right hardware dumb asses
This
NICE
Great vid, I learned a lot..thanks Alex.
Thank you! The video explained my questions about rotors.
You shouldn't have to worry about "clocking" the rotor or damaging the threads if they're torqued up properly. The bolts clamp the rotor between the bolt head and the flange on the hub and it's the friction between the bolt head, rotor and flange that stop the rotor moving - it's not because the rotor rests on bolt threads. I generally keep the rotor and flange holes vaguely concentric and they never seem to be any different when I come to take them off apart. A lot of (most?) hubs also have a lip around the axle to help align the rotor so it isn't off-centre. The torx key shouldn't be as loose a fit a that either but that might be more of an issue specifically with that tool or those bolts.
That said... I do love how quick and easy it is to swap rotors on a centrelock hub.
Very important point made here. I too was confused as to hear him advising to tighten the 6-bolt on one end of the hole clearance... only to later count the fact that the rotor will constantly push against the threads as a disadvantage. If you start shenanigans like aligning the rotor on one end of the play because you think the force is applied in the opposite direction you need to stop right there and reflect on how bolts work.
My wheels came default with hex bolts. So, that's just what I use.
Great video! I am just building a bike for trekking and don't know what tipe of brake choose, thank you for this information!
Great vid. I learnt a lot. Thanks.👍🏼
Excellent video. Thanks for all the detail and info.
Great video Alex! Thank you very much!!
Fox vs Rockshox, or maybe like 34 vs 36. Also, an in depth video on difference in volume spacers and how they impact
Jackson Scott that could be cool. But my quick answer is fox 36 only. Not much heavier than the 34 but a lot more mid stroke support than the rockshox
hey Alex, love the vids. I have shimano saints with 203F and 180R rotors and metallic pads. I notice that when I put water on the pads I get more bite and stopping power but with more noise. have you experience this before? thanks Also could you please use a tripod on the camera.
Wilson Veloso I have experience that. Idk why it it does make them grabby!
Also, I'm working on buying a decent tripod. I have a broken one that is about 2 feet tall right now. Usually stick it in a bike stand to get it to a decent height. Bike stand was taken up at that moment for a project
I think it's mainly because water fills all the inperfections betwen pad and the rotor thus giving a better surface area
Good stuff, great edit.
Really helpful and informative video.
Great job bro & thanks!
rock it clockwise. good tip. thanks.
Great video! I love my centerlocks and I use an adaptor to run 203mm Sram Centerlines on my Firebird.
"Rotor hitting a thread" for 6-bolt rotors is simply INCORRECT! It's not the thread that is transferring rotational movement. It's the friction between the rotor and the hub, the bolts are just creating that friction. The bolts are loaded by stretching, not by shearing. The only time when bolts are loaded by shearing is when they are not tightened.
Great info, thanks! I ride 180mm Shimano XT front and rear but am looking to upgrade to the saints. As I'm progressing I now notice a lot of fade from the XT's especially on steep stuff... was looking at the SRAM guides until your rant during the bike build live stream
sram can definitely work for some people! I haven't had the best experience with them in the past. I'm also a heavier guy and tend to ride steep trails. I am biased but idk. I could be a little nicer to other brands😅
The reason bigger rotors have more power is not because of the lower temperatures, but mostly to the larger leverage. This is also the reason why frames and forks have a maximum rotor size rating.
Love these tech videos. Can you do one on derailleur setup and dialing in shifting ? Thanks!
Wyatt Poovey yes definitely! I'll add that to the to do list
another thing i never knew until someone told me about 6 bolt rotors is if you lose a bolt you can use one from a bottle cage mount
Just wondering if you think they will be making a RT 99 Freeza for 6-bolt any time soon? Or an Adapter? Great videos and thanks for the information!
super informative. great video dude
Great vid!
Thank you!
It's not just that the larger surface area generates less heat-- a larger diameter rotor has provides more leverage for slowing the wheel because the braking surface is farther from the axle and closer to the rim.
Hi.it would be great a video about chainline, non boost frame 12x142 with 1x chainring compatibility
I just noticed it is a KTM you have. Awesome! Which model? I cannot see good enough.
Are you still preferring the Wolf dropper lever for the Fox Transfer post??
There are so many options to order, confusing. One option I am wondering, is did you get the "light action" version? Seems like would be good...?
What to consider when upgrading your brakes parts, dimensions, and compatibility.
Right on thinking about changing to the shimano 180 rotors due to the heat dissipation not being very good with the sram 180
Great vid
Hey Alex,
Great review as always. I am building a new top-grade build bike (Ibis HD4) wehn my frame comes in soon and I was wondering if you have ever ridden the SRAM Guide RSC or Ultimates? I ask as I know that you currently run Saints, and I was thinking of them as I have the extensive moto background and am so use to powerful and precise brakes, and currently been running XTM8000, which stop very good, but I find with no/minimal modulation that the rear tends to lock up on dry steep fast downhill stuff, no matter how much I finesse it.
I just rode a demo bike with Guide RSC's and they felt great with some good modulation, not too much tho, and seemed to stop great, but...I was only able to ride the bike on the street on flat ground.
As of now, now shuttling, but do love demanding DH stuff. So, just wondering your thoughts on Saints vs top SRAM's for demanding Enduro that has steep technical DHstuff, but with some climbing and all around trail use???
I kind of prefer to run the SRAM's if can get away performance-wise because of modulation and a very significant weight savings, but not if too much sacrifice with the riding I described.
Oh, do you have any comparison in modulation of current XTM8000 vs Saints??
I am running Ibis 742 wheels with i9 centerlock hubs so I was also wondering if you running the "Freeza" centerlock rotors, or the non finned Ice-Tech's? And 180mm/180mm, or 180/203?
Thanks buddy!
Nice vid! A standard T25 makes sense on the trail but if you find a T25 bit for a socket wrench, it will make it a bit easier to tighten without stripping or overtorquing.
Great ! Super useful! What about using shimano rt99 rotors with entry level deore brakes?? Does it help? Maybe adding the ice tec pad to...?
Great video mate thanks 🤙🏼
I have a specialized roubaix sl4 with tektro 140 rear disc and 160 front disc 6 bolt. I bought a wheelset that is centerlock. Should I use an adapter to use the same 6 bolt rotors or just buy new centerlock rotors? If I do change into centerlock, will I need to change the braking mechanism, or will it not be affected? Thanks and great informative video.
Thanks for the video, I'm trying to download disc brake knowledge into my brain to catch up with modern technology. Now I'm left with questions about brake compatibility. Like, details, guidelines and "bottom lines" about mixing calipers with rotors. Sizes, size limits, what can be mixed and matched. Not really looking for hack solutions, just want to know which things you can generally slap together and have work. The context for me: I am building my own bike and it might be a Frankenstein depending on what I can find.
Nice video. Thank you. Is there any problem switching between center lock and 6 bolt wheels. I am using shimano calipers with center lock brakes and thinking of buying a new set of 6 bolt race wheels. Thank you.
centerlock all the way
Noooo
Spencer Murray ikr it distributes braking power bay better
ye, kinda weird it's not as common, but i suppose its for legacy support?
Great video, thanks.
First world problems, I use my shoes to stop a bike.
I stop my bike by throwing myself over the handlebars. My body becomes the brake.
I don't stop my bike. I am writing this on my bike.
I sold my bike to buy a break
brakes were invented by cowards
@@roldanliquigan4233 i bought your bike and then sold it to buy a shoe to use for a break
maybe the reason Centerlocks are so rare in shops is because people hardly ever have issues so there's no use in stocking them?
TheNerdyCanadian I agree. 😂😂
The main reason we don't stock a lot of center lock in our shop is Shimano held that patent tight for many years so it was rare to see a bike with centerlocks(Shimano hubs suck, loose ball is dead tech). The other reason is Shimanos distribution model, most shops pay more in cost than what sites like chain reaction can retail them for so there's no demand. That being said with centerlocks becoming more prevalent(largely thanks to road adoption) we stock at least one of all sizes to cover emergency repairs.
@@p5y4n1d3 Loose ball bearings is not dead tech. Angular contact bearings are equivalent to loose ball bearings according to an Art's Cyclery RUclips video I saw. The only downside to loose ball is extra time to overhaul it. But with sealed cartridge bearings, you need a special tool to press in the bearings and to remove them. Plus angular contact bearings are more expensive compared to loose ball bearings. I have loose ball bearing hubs, I overhauled it myself and is running as good as new. All I needed was grease and a cone wrench.
Loose ball is dead tech, what you're talking about are angular contact cartridge bearings, the big downside with loose ball is once the hub shell is worn, the hub is garbage. 3/4 of the folks who come in to my shop with their Shimano hubs needing an adjustment have already killed their hub. Cartridge bearing hubs can have new bearings put in no matter how bad they let the wheel get. There's a reason no reputable companies aside from Shimano and Campy manufacture loose ball hubs these days. BTW you don't generally need a special tool to press the hub bearings, a selection of sockets and a vice have always done the trick for me.
Really!?!! I've lost count of the centerlock rotors I've had to replace because of rivets coming loose. The only reason Shimano use centerlock is so that they can sell you their stuff. Also Shimano brakes are notorious for having to be used with original pads and rotors. They squeak like crazy if you use anything other than all Shimano parts (sometimes you might find a combo that works, but it's usually easier to use original parts).
Have found the hope 2 piece discs to be super nice, running a 225mm on the rear which gives some extra bite and helps with 29” wheels and they dont warp when you get heat into them
Why on earth would you need extra bite on the rear? I mean I could understand if you said fade resistance
I’m sorry but your comment about no play in centre lock discs is wrong. There’s always more play in CL vs 6 bolt, the CL spline is not a clearance fit so will always have play. up to 2mm of play on a 203mm rotor, just rock the wheel back and forth while applying the brakes.
A bad thing with Shimano is that that company does not manufacture 6-Bolt Saint hubs but only Center Lock Saint hubs, and I don't think that Shimano will ever make 6-Bolt Saint hubs unfortunately, despite that the SM-RT86 rotors have a big popularity on Downhill.
the ice Tech rotors have an aluminum piece sandwiched in between the steel on the rotors to help with heat soak.
If the 6 bolts are properly torqued there is no need to "clock" the rotor against the bolts. The rotor is designed to stay in place due to the friction caused by the bolts between the rotor and hub body. If the rotor is applying a shear load on your bolts you're in for a bad day.
In short, the rotor should never be applying pressure directly on the threads. The bolt pressure in itself will keep the rotor in place.
whats the weight difference between the center lock and the 6 bolts?
I have one question, why do downhill bikes NEVER have centerlock?
It's mean six bold more thug then centerlock...
Thanks for this.
Hey dude. When you tightened the centerlock you mentioned 40NM but didn't appear to use a torque wrench? I'm travelling abroad with my bike soon and have the EVOC bike bag. I'm concerned that the discs may get warped in transit as they're on the outside of the bag either side so I'm thinking of removing the discs. However I don't really want to buy and take in the bag a huge torque wrench abroad. Is it possible to tighten the centrelock with a tool (such as the one you used) by feel? i.e. pretty hard
Do Hope rotors really rattle? I'm in the market for a pair of 180mm rotors for my new bike and Hope rotors were near the top of my list. Also, I only started watching your videos recently, but you give some of the most informative technical breakdowns of bike parts of any channel, even channels like GMBN which I feel should be doing more of this ( #GMBN take note! ).
I don't have any time on them :/ I've just heard they do
Ah, fair enough! Motorcycles use floating rotors so I can't see why it would be specific to Hope disks unless there's some sort of QA or manufacturing problem with Hope's factory. My GSXR 1000 has two floating rotors at the front (I just looked haha) so I think I'll take my chances and pick up a pair of Hope rotors and see how I go :)
Well, I've put the Hope rotors on, and thought I'd just let you know that there has been zero rattling. I suspect the people who've experienced rattling have put them on backwards (so that the rotor is being pushed off the rotor's spokes instead of into them). Voila! i.imgur.com/vh8f0fl.png
they dont hes talking bull shit
Outstanding info.... I agree on all points. I run Magura MT5 4 piston on 203 6 bolts.... want to use adapter on my centerlock 29...better rotor. Yup hate 6 bolts to thread in 😆 it came with deore/slx rotors but seem smaller on the rotor contact size? Weird.
Thank you for a great video. Cheers
This is a very good video 👍
The extra braking power is from more leverage over the wheel. Less heat is just a plus.
My main reason for 6 bolt is that you can remove bolts and get it to function so you can use the bolts as spears
Some great new info..tnx :)
Hey man great videos! I have a question. I have a 2019 Yeti SB6 Turq with we are one wheels and I9 6 bolt hubs. My rotor sits close to the frame (caliper mount). Like so close its scary. In your opinion what is to close? Also would a rotor sit closer or farther using a 6 bolt compared to a center lock?? Thanks!
Running 203 Floaters With Saints On my CF Warden 😎
Great vid. Esoteric question but can you use a front 160 to 180 Front brake post to post Shimano adaptor on the rear brake (also post mounts)?
The only suggestion I have on the 6 bolt is to constantly check torque and if you have one the keeps backing out to reapply the blue lock tight. I've have had bad luck with the manuf. included bolts (ones with the blue lock tight) backing out even when torqued per instructions.
Eric O you can definitely run that adapter on both front and rear
Alex, What's your peddle choice? BMX or clip-in?
You've got some physics wrong. Conservation of energy says heat in your 140mm's and 203mm's is exactly the same. It is the temperature that will be higher in the 140's... due to having a higher temperature gradient with the environment, the 140's will actually cool down faster as well.
I'm thinking about 220 from 203 center lock rotor Would you ?just for ease of mind?
very helpful thanks
im a new biker
Great profesional vid thx
Braking power comes from friction. Without friction there is no torque. Overheating rotors reduce friction coefficient by up to 60% result is less power.
He's quite right to say heat affects power.
great video thanks. i'm about to buy a set of wheels with dt swiss 350 centerlock hubs on it. my current MTB bike has 6 bolt hubs on it. will the new wheels with centerlock hubs fit properly on the same bike with the new hubs and rotors? will the disc be in the exact same spot and line up properly? thanks
The other thing with 6 bolt is that if you lose a bolt, it doesn't really matter, you can ride without 1 bolt.
Good video. Thanks.
to be fair there loads of 6 bolt rotors the cheaper ones a pair you can get for peanuts but there to thick they line up bad with pads they rust and very heavy and always warp and even warp out the box. now got centerlock on a hope hub using RT99 on me duel sport trek i use for work and leisure and great on busy city roads and fantastic at high speeds and they look the nuts and very light perfect for my environment. time to get modern folks
The beer made you forget about them hope brakes :(
Wasd Efgg I don't know much about hope brakes to be honest. Never used them but thought they were worth including. I only know about floating rotors from Moto and track cars
maybe someday hope will make floating rotors with a centerlock mount! One can "hope" right?
So can you convert your hubs for a direct mount?
Brian Vaughn unfortunately no. Honestly 6-bolts are fine! They have been using them for years! I just prefer centerlocks!
Yeah, that looks like a lot simpler setup so I can see why you prefer it.
But you can convert your centerlock hubs into 6-bolt. Just like Alex said.
I also prefer to stick to centerlocks (whenever possible). The thing why centerlocks are not that popular lies in the stupid legal reasons: Shimano has a patent for the centerlock technology and manufacturers producing the centerlock-compatible parts are obliged to pay Shimano a fee. That means that for cheaper parts the fee might just make these non cost-effective. However, once centerlock patent is expired, I am mostly sure 6-bolt will be gone (as quill stems).
I use centerlock,no issues with them.👍
Center lock is best (at least for xc and more xc race, fast and easy to install / remove)
How do I tork it down to 40 Nm by hand? (note my hand does not have measuring capability)