A good rule of thumb (but certainly not perfect) for eras is the length of freight cars. 1920s - 1950s: 40’ cars. 1960s - 1980s: 50’ cars. 1990s - present: 60’ + cars. Of course there are many exceptions, but for building a manifest freight that’s a safe bet.
the 40's see the introduction of 50ft cars, mainly flatbeds and longer ps-1's post-war, and during the 1920's you have 36ft cars aswell. I am sorta modeling that era in HO side by side with my N scale fleet(because HO has more steam options)
The one major type of Canadian rolling stock I think we never see down south are the "Canadian Tire" containers, especially the 60' containers. It seems like every CP intermodal train up north has at least a few. Love the channel!
Do you ever see the canadian cylindrical hoppers? They're an absolute icon of the canadian prairies and it really makes me sad there's less and less every year.
@@erichstreberg7101 Those are everywhere seems like, and just not in Canadian roads either. I've seen ex-ATSF numbered for the DM&E, RCPE, and other leasers.
Yes I see quite a few CN some CP in Michigan. I live within two blocks of the CN mainline and daily see both even though CN and CP don’t necessarily get along.
I used to see them on the New York & Lake Railroad in my hometown in Western New York State at a grain mill Etc ! I recently purchased an MTH Railking 3 rail O Gauge car in 2024 as well !
I hauled fuel to a contractor working in a NS yard in Atlanta GA. They were building a loco servicing shop. They also built a turntable to turn the locos. It was surprising to me to see this,as I thought they were something of the past.
In some places they have an operational rule that a loco with one cab cannot travel too far long-end-leading. In Queensland they certainly don't as there was an accident around 2008 which was decided to have been caused by the crew not being able to see properly.
Sorry, Jimmy, but I think you have mischaracterized the L-girder system. In L-girder benchwork, the L-girders *do* *not* form the legs - the L-girders are the main structural support for the layout, and they, in turn, are supported by legs (which can be L-shaped members as well, or simple 2x2s, or...) *Generally* the L-girders in turn support risers, and the subroadbed is applied to the risers. The advantage of the L-girder system is that it is very flexible for supporting open benchwork (which eliminates the plywood) - especially when you plan a lot of elevation changes. See the Union Pacific Evanston Division in HO Scale channel for a great example of L-girder framing. All that said, I think your visual example is the best option for supporting a small layout which will be mounted on plywood; it's just not an L-girder construction.
How to see more tips and tricks on detailing your t trak modules ,love the idea for small spaces and not enough videos out there on the subject,keep up the great work
Re: “eras” in American modeling, it’s helpful that often times rolling stock has a build date on the side. If you have good rolling stock, this writing will be clear enough with some kind of magnifying aid. Also keep in mind that if it’s from the 70s but it’s also around today, it’ll definitely look dirty and probably have graffiti or patched over reporting marks to help identify it. Re: track buried in concrete, I use SmoothIt and literally pour some over the tracks and make sure it’s level with a large flat edge. Confine it with some kind of stacking object like wooden sticks or foam tape from woodland scenics. Then later use a hobby knife and other sharp pointy things to scratch out the flange ways. An nmra gauge and an old piece of rolling stock will help. Carve away at an angle until the cars roll perfectly.
What would you recommend for having under the table storage/yard for someone using kato unitrack? Also what would i have to do to run push buttons for switchs for kato unitrack? Thank you for your time if you decide to asker my question.
For the Q&A For a while now, I have been trying to create a model of a locomotive that doesn't exist in model form(WES Colorado Railcar Aero DMU). The current plan is to create a shell that I can drop onto an RDC chassis. I have been doing my best with 3d modeling the loco with Rhinoceros 3D. If I want to send the file off to someone or a service to resin print the model, what are some good tips? How detailed should I be on the model for a resin printer? What things should I look out for in my 3d model? What are some general tips on 3d modeling for printing? Any locomotive specific tips that would be useful?
I'm just now looking into model trains. If you were just starting out today and had about $250 to get going, what would you consider to be the best bang for your buck? Limited space available, so I'm looking at N scale, though not opposed to Z scale. I've been 3D printing for about 6 years, so I have that tool in my arsenal as well.
Bluford car shops website has a RR timeline on their homepage with a lot of era related info on it. A RR car built before 7/1/74 had a 40 year max use, after that date it became 50 yrs(better, safer construction???) A RR car over 50 years old and not rebuilt may continue to be used, BUT it can't be interchanged to another RR, it must stay on home rails. The ones ive seen have "Rage" stenciled after the road #, which indicates restricted due to age. Modern diesels do not need to be turned, they run long hood forward just as well as short hood, think Southern rwy.
Good video, thanks. QUESTION: How do you unstick a stuck Kato turnout (scenery glue). It works manually but struggles or won't work at all with the remote motor unless I manually flip it a bunch of times to loosen it up, but then at the next operating session, it's stuck again. i've tried alcohol drips, q-tips in the slide mechanism, even a drop of Labelle 101 engine oil (BAD IDEA - made it worse - gummy). I really don't want to have to pry it out of the ballast / scenery.
Wyes are not just for turning locomotives. Some cars could only be loaded/unloaded from one side and needed a way to be turned to get that side next to a loading dock.
That was good. Crikey the dcc questions can get technical. Just as an FYI regarding the last question it's considerably easier to categorise an era for the European stuff, as up until the '90's most European railways were state owned. The eras tend to mark changes in livery or detail, (remember that Germany has really only been a unified nation since WWI), prior were the earlier eras such as the Prussian railways, or the Bavarian railways: easy to date. Then the postwar reichsbahn up until 1945. The ever popular era 3 Bundesbahn, the wirtschaftswunder era, so popularised by the classic märklin and fleischmann products. That followed by the reduction in four wheeled freight cars, and the new computer numbering schemes. Then privatisation etc. Some locomotives were on the railways long enough to see through all these changes but the changes were fairly distinct. With the US always having been privatised, and without changing computer numbering etc, there's considerably less distinct dividers, the steam diesel transition era being an obvious one. Anyway, enjoyable vid :)
I'm drinking Starbucks True North Blend. Just to add a little to the question about rail car time periods...The Association of American Railroads (AAR) Interchange Rule 88 limits the service life of railcars to 50 years from the date of construction. However, there are some exceptions to this rule. My question is: I'm getting a Bambu Labs A1 for Chrismas. When I look for items to print, how do I know if it can be printed on my printer or if it requires a resin printer? For example, there is a Bay Line Woodchip hopper I'd like to print but I don't see where it says what material to print it in.
I use Atlas code 55 flex track on my layout, and now thinking about building a helix. To keep the radius consistent, I was thinking about using Kato Unitrack or Bachman EZ-Track. Can this be done? What suggestions would you have to make this work?
I think you should consider micro engineering flex track which holds its shape when you bend it. And their are devices to curve the track to an exact radius .
I have a question! I'm still fairly new to the hobby & N Scale since I came back to it after a decade or so from HO Scale. I was wondering if it's best to have the switches/points be manual or wired to work through DCC since I know Kato switches tend to be a bit finicky with that. Thank you for taking the time to read this I love your videos!
My question: using Bachmann EZ track DC switches while using DCC setup. Are they compatible? I have a simple track layout on folding tables. I'm using NCE Power Cab.
No they are not. I mean they can, be but that's at your own risk. Bachmann makes DCC compatible switches, and given how expensive switches are, it may just be best to use your current switches manually(via the switch level on the attached road-bed)
On the US rolling stock question, the easy answer is to look at the reporting marks on the car. There will a mark like “BLT 1-50” for “Built in 1950” as well as commonly “New” meaning, not refurbished, or something like “S 1-60” for “shopped (repaired refurbished) in 1960”
Many things apart from your rollingstock fleet will date your layout; figures and their fashions, architecture, vehicles and technology, infrastructure, sometimes even tree species. Nothing dates your layout, however, like the youngest thing on it. . Vittoria dark.
I want to build a diorama with a forced perspective. My thoughts are N scale for the near scene with Z in the distance. I want it to be a suburban/urban scene with a trolley providing transit to the population. The only trains I've found to do this are the German Type 798 / 998 Diesel Railcar by Pico and Marklin. I'm not set on any given country or era. Do you know of any other trolleys in both N and Z scale?
Hi Jimmy, I'm currently running with a Hornby Select R8213 I have had for many years. I'm Looking at updating, do you have any suggestions for DCC Controllers on a Budget (I only run 2-3 engines at a time) is there issues with compatibility if I go for an American Brand? I'm guessing they are all NMRA compliant but some of my engines are very old chips (20 odd years old?)
Hi Jimmy. Love your show. I’m the vp of a model rr club and want to honor a member who has been with the club for 35 years. I’d like to present him with a custom boxcar. Can I use water based decals to decorate the car? I have an inkjet printer. Thank you
You absolutely can use water-based decals. Print on normal (or draft) setting - photo quality puts too much ink on the decal paper and the image will smear. After the printed decals have dried (about an hour) seal the decal with two light sprays of Dullcote, allowing about 30 minutes between sprays. One spray is not enough - the inks will run. Three sprays risk making the image cloudy. I have tried other matte lacquers - Vallejo and Tamiya - and I still prefer Dullcote. After the Dullcote has dried, apply as you would any decal. Good luck!
You might want to know that there is a DCC-EX commandstation+motorshield+wifi combo coming outs soon™️! No proper ETA yet but might be worth waiting for if youre thinking about getting the motorshield.
Q&A So, since HO has more steam options(if any manufactures see this; bring more steam to N scale), what'd you say is a good decoder for a Bachmann USRA 0-6-0 for converting to DCC, also any good recommendations for current/future transition era diesels that are DCC without sound? And what are your opinions(if any) on Scaletrains' Kit Classics line? Finally for the community as a whole: does anyone know of any ACL 40ft boxcars in the 207xx series, aswell as 40ft Missouri Pacific boxcars with the script "route of the Eagles" in HO or N? Oddly specific...I have my reasons...
Hi i am looking at getting into DCC and one controller i have been looking at is the Hornby Elite as this is basically the only DCC controller i can get here in NZ (apart from digitrax which is over $1500 and i am not willing to pay that). What are youre thoughts on this as i cant find much reliable information on it. Cheers
@huntergotchall9016 that you'll have to check into. I know nothing about British locos, rolling stock or the manufacturers. But you can either have all the same couplers for consistency sake or just match a rolling stock car to match the loco on one end and the other coupler to match the rolling stock. Micro trains does have a table listing the couplers that you can swap to fit that specific loco/rolling stock. Hope that helps and Happy railroading!
You'll have to adapt your engine's couplers to a knuckle. We don't use horn/hook or other types here as often as the knuckles are more reliable if taken care of(not beaten, dropped, etc). Kadee & Bachmann make NEM compatible knuckles for your engine.
Drinking Columbian Maxwell House. Question: Is it easy to replace a speaker in a locomotive? I messed mine up and need to replace it. Thank you! The locomotive is a ho scale Bachmann GP40.
1) Since North American freight railroads are private, they have their own way of conducting business and have to follow the rules of the free market (supply/demand) vs. other countries that are mostly government-ran. Government railroads can spend frivolously as they please because they don't have to worry about losses or operating inefficiently because it is the government, they can just tax, borrow, and print as much money as they please. Private companies can't so they have to operate more frugally thus why you will see the blending of locos and rolling stock from different eras together thus making the era system in North America untenable. B) North American freight cars have dates on the side of them (unless it is a freight car meant to solely operate on the owner's railroad like the New York Central Pacemaker that originally only operated over New York Central lines), a NEW or BLT date. Go by the most recent date to determine what era it should be operating in. Also, FRA regulations made certain freight modifications illegal during certain years such as giant billboard adverts on reefers made illegal in the 1930s or 1940s(?) due to clamping down on the advertising collusion between railroads and private companies, steel cables forming a trapezoid beneath the frames of boxcars/reefers illegal in the 1930s, walkways on the top of boxcars/reefers illegal in the early 1980s, etc. Passenger cars are different but usually by looking at them you can tell when they operated (wood 1800s-1920s, heavyweight Pullman steel 1920s-1970s, Budd/smoothsides 1930s-1980s). Of course, there are always exceptions, but these are the general rules.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
A good rule of thumb (but certainly not perfect) for eras is the length of freight cars. 1920s - 1950s: 40’ cars. 1960s - 1980s: 50’ cars. 1990s - present: 60’ + cars. Of course there are many exceptions, but for building a manifest freight that’s a safe bet.
the 40's see the introduction of 50ft cars, mainly flatbeds and longer ps-1's post-war, and during the 1920's you have 36ft cars aswell. I am sorta modeling that era in HO side by side with my N scale fleet(because HO has more steam options)
The one major type of Canadian rolling stock I think we never see down south are the "Canadian Tire" containers, especially the 60' containers. It seems like every CP intermodal train up north has at least a few. Love the channel!
Do you ever see the canadian cylindrical hoppers? They're an absolute icon of the canadian prairies and it really makes me sad there's less and less every year.
@@erichstreberg7101 Those are everywhere seems like, and just not in Canadian roads either. I've seen ex-ATSF numbered for the DM&E, RCPE, and other leasers.
Yes I see quite a few CN some CP in Michigan. I live within two blocks of the CN mainline and daily see both even though CN and CP don’t necessarily get along.
I used to see them on the New York & Lake Railroad in my hometown in Western New York State at a grain mill Etc !
I recently purchased an MTH Railking 3 rail O Gauge car in 2024 as well !
HO HO HO Merry Christmas Jimmy, Great video. I got into DCC-EX after watching your DIY instructions. I Love DCC-EX, thank you
I would love a 3d printing primer for model railroading video. What each type of printer is, tips and tricks, and example prints.
I hauled fuel to a contractor working in a NS yard in Atlanta GA. They were building a loco servicing shop. They also built a turntable to turn the locos. It was surprising to me to see this,as I thought they were something of the past.
In some places they have an operational rule that a loco with one cab cannot travel too far long-end-leading. In Queensland they certainly don't as there was an accident around 2008 which was decided to have been caused by the crew not being able to see properly.
Sorry, Jimmy, but I think you have mischaracterized the L-girder system. In L-girder benchwork, the L-girders *do* *not* form the legs - the L-girders are the main structural support for the layout, and they, in turn, are supported by legs (which can be L-shaped members as well, or simple 2x2s, or...)
*Generally* the L-girders in turn support risers, and the subroadbed is applied to the risers. The advantage of the L-girder system is that it is very flexible for supporting open benchwork (which eliminates the plywood) - especially when you plan a lot of elevation changes. See the Union Pacific Evanston Division in HO Scale channel for a great example of L-girder framing.
All that said, I think your visual example is the best option for supporting a small layout which will be mounted on plywood; it's just not an L-girder construction.
I like how your channel has grown. Well played Sir.
How to see more tips and tricks on detailing your t trak modules ,love the idea for small spaces and not enough videos out there on the subject,keep up the great work
I work at a hobby shop I learned that the Blunami chip can’t take pulse power that most modern DC controllers have it has to be at a pure voltage
Happy Thanksgiving!!!!
Re: “eras” in American modeling, it’s helpful that often times rolling stock has a build date on the side. If you have good rolling stock, this writing will be clear enough with some kind of magnifying aid. Also keep in mind that if it’s from the 70s but it’s also around today, it’ll definitely look dirty and probably have graffiti or patched over reporting marks to help identify it.
Re: track buried in concrete, I use SmoothIt and literally pour some over the tracks and make sure it’s level with a large flat edge. Confine it with some kind of stacking object like wooden sticks or foam tape from woodland scenics. Then later use a hobby knife and other sharp pointy things to scratch out the flange ways. An nmra gauge and an old piece of rolling stock will help. Carve away at an angle until the cars roll perfectly.
Thanks for answering my question.
What would you recommend for having under the table storage/yard for someone using kato unitrack? Also what would i have to do to run push buttons for switchs for kato unitrack? Thank you for your time if you decide to asker my question.
For the Q&A
For a while now, I have been trying to create a model of a locomotive that doesn't exist in model form(WES Colorado Railcar Aero DMU). The current plan is to create a shell that I can drop onto an RDC chassis. I have been doing my best with 3d modeling the loco with Rhinoceros 3D. If I want to send the file off to someone or a service to resin print the model, what are some good tips? How detailed should I be on the model for a resin printer? What things should I look out for in my 3d model? What are some general tips on 3d modeling for printing? Any locomotive specific tips that would be useful?
Damn, just missed being first. Not a coffee drinker but hope you had a great thanksgiving yesterday.
I have a boatload of questions Jimmy
Thank you for answering my question i really do appreciate it sir.
What are the big differences between nce and digitrax systems and which one would you recommend for beginners.
Another way to keep cats away could possibly giving the area a citrus smell
Great session today, good info. Thanks!
Question : how can we grow/keep this hobby going? How can we usher in the new generation of model railroaders
I'm just now looking into model trains. If you were just starting out today and had about $250 to get going, what would you consider to be the best bang for your buck? Limited space available, so I'm looking at N scale, though not opposed to Z scale.
I've been 3D printing for about 6 years, so I have that tool in my arsenal as well.
Curious for TTrack modules, what would the best way be to model below the track details or scenery, that isn’t just the straight river cutouts?
Bluford car shops website has a RR timeline on their homepage with a lot of era related info on it. A RR car built before 7/1/74 had a 40 year max use, after that date it became 50 yrs(better, safer construction???) A RR car over 50 years old and not rebuilt may continue to be used, BUT it can't be interchanged to another RR, it must stay on home rails. The ones ive seen have "Rage" stenciled after the road #, which indicates restricted due to age. Modern diesels do not need to be turned, they run long hood forward just as well as short hood, think Southern rwy.
Thanks for the coffee shoutout!!
Good video, thanks. QUESTION: How do you unstick a stuck Kato turnout (scenery glue). It works manually but struggles or won't work at all with the remote motor unless I manually flip it a bunch of times to loosen it up, but then at the next operating session, it's stuck again. i've tried alcohol drips, q-tips in the slide mechanism, even a drop of Labelle 101 engine oil (BAD IDEA - made it worse - gummy). I really don't want to have to pry it out of the ballast / scenery.
If you were to ever get a larger space would you switch to a larger scale. Also is there a brass engine you specifically want?
Wyes are not just for turning locomotives. Some cars could only be loaded/unloaded from one side and needed a way to be turned to get that side next to a loading dock.
What airbrush set would you recommend for N scale? And what would you say the top 5-10 industries to model on a layout are?
That was good. Crikey the dcc questions can get technical.
Just as an FYI regarding the last question it's considerably easier to categorise an era for the European stuff, as up until the '90's most European railways were state owned. The eras tend to mark changes in livery or detail, (remember that Germany has really only been a unified nation since WWI), prior were the earlier eras such as the Prussian railways, or the Bavarian railways: easy to date. Then the postwar reichsbahn up until 1945. The ever popular era 3 Bundesbahn, the wirtschaftswunder era, so popularised by the classic märklin and fleischmann products. That followed by the reduction in four wheeled freight cars, and the new computer numbering schemes. Then privatisation etc. Some locomotives were on the railways long enough to see through all these changes but the changes were fairly distinct.
With the US always having been privatised, and without changing computer numbering etc, there's considerably less distinct dividers, the steam diesel transition era being an obvious one.
Anyway, enjoyable vid :)
After applying finishing touches to scenery on the layout, does anyone use a matte clear craft spray to protect the material?
I'm drinking Starbucks True North Blend.
Just to add a little to the question about rail car time periods...The Association of American Railroads (AAR) Interchange Rule 88 limits the service life of railcars to 50 years from the date of construction. However, there are some exceptions to this rule.
My question is: I'm getting a Bambu Labs A1 for Chrismas. When I look for items to print, how do I know if it can be printed on my printer or if it requires a resin printer? For example, there is a Bay Line Woodchip hopper I'd like to print but I don't see where it says what material to print it in.
I use Atlas code 55 flex track on my layout, and now thinking about building a helix. To keep the radius consistent, I was thinking about using Kato Unitrack or Bachman EZ-Track. Can this be done? What suggestions would you have to make this work?
I think you should consider micro engineering flex track which holds its shape when you bend it. And their are devices to curve the track to an exact radius .
Who had the yellow and gray paint first Union Pacific Railroad or Milwaukee Road?
Will you buy a kato pacific surfliner? It would be interesting to see a review from you
I have a question!
I'm still fairly new to the hobby & N Scale since I came back to it after a decade or so from HO Scale.
I was wondering if it's best to have the switches/points be manual or wired to work through DCC since I know Kato switches tend to be a bit finicky with that.
Thank you for taking the time to read this I love your videos!
Oh wow! Very cool
My question: using Bachmann EZ track DC switches while using DCC setup.
Are they compatible?
I have a simple track layout on folding tables.
I'm using NCE Power Cab.
No they are not. I mean they can, be but that's at your own risk. Bachmann makes DCC compatible switches, and given how expensive switches are, it may just be best to use your current switches manually(via the switch level on the attached road-bed)
@BattleshipOrion ok thanks
How about Atlas code 100 switches, are they DCC compatible?
@@marcvonhebel3475 I have no experience with those, so IDK.
On the US rolling stock question, the easy answer is to look at the reporting marks on the car.
There will a mark like “BLT 1-50” for “Built in 1950” as well as commonly “New” meaning, not refurbished, or something like “S 1-60” for “shopped (repaired refurbished) in 1960”
Could you use an N scale dcc decoder for a small Ho scale locomotive?🧐
Many things apart from your rollingstock fleet will date your layout; figures and their fashions, architecture, vehicles and technology, infrastructure, sometimes even tree species. Nothing dates your layout, however, like the youngest thing on it.
.
Vittoria dark.
I want to build a diorama with a forced perspective. My thoughts are N scale for the near scene with Z in the distance. I want it to be a suburban/urban scene with a trolley providing transit to the population. The only trains I've found to do this are the German Type 798 / 998 Diesel Railcar by Pico and Marklin. I'm not set on any given country or era. Do you know of any other trolleys in both N and Z scale?
Does Bluenami have N Scale decoders ?
I am drinking Maccona dark blend 10 here in New Zealand ☕️
Hi Jimmy, I'm currently running with a Hornby Select R8213 I have had for many years.
I'm Looking at updating, do you have any suggestions for DCC Controllers on a Budget (I only run 2-3 engines at a time) is there issues with compatibility if I go for an American Brand? I'm guessing they are all NMRA compliant but some of my engines are very old chips (20 odd years old?)
Thank u sir I appreciate ur info
Hi Jimmy. Love your show. I’m the vp of a model rr club and want to honor a member who has been with the club for 35 years. I’d like to present him with a custom boxcar. Can I use water based decals to decorate the car? I have an inkjet printer. Thank you
You absolutely can use water-based decals. Print on normal (or draft) setting - photo quality puts too much ink on the decal paper and the image will smear. After the printed decals have dried (about an hour) seal the decal with two light sprays of Dullcote, allowing about 30 minutes between sprays. One spray is not enough - the inks will run. Three sprays risk making the image cloudy. I have tried other matte lacquers - Vallejo and Tamiya - and I still prefer Dullcote.
After the Dullcote has dried, apply as you would any decal. Good luck!
You might want to know that there is a DCC-EX commandstation+motorshield+wifi combo coming outs soon™️! No proper ETA yet but might be worth waiting for if youre thinking about getting the motorshield.
I may or may not be doing a video on it.
Q&A
So, since HO has more steam options(if any manufactures see this; bring more steam to N scale), what'd you say is a good decoder for a Bachmann USRA 0-6-0 for converting to DCC, also any good recommendations for current/future transition era diesels that are DCC without sound? And what are your opinions(if any) on Scaletrains' Kit Classics line? Finally for the community as a whole: does anyone know of any ACL 40ft boxcars in the 207xx series, aswell as 40ft Missouri Pacific boxcars with the script "route of the Eagles" in HO or N? Oddly specific...I have my reasons...
Hi i am looking at getting into DCC and one controller i have been looking at is the Hornby Elite as this is basically the only DCC controller i can get here in NZ (apart from digitrax which is over $1500 and i am not willing to pay that). What are youre thoughts on this as i cant find much reliable information on it. Cheers
I am building a layout with American rolling stock. Can I use british locomotive? If so will I have to change anything?
It's your railroad. You can do whatever you like!
@TB-ModelRR do they have the same coupler or will I have to modify the british locomotive
@huntergotchall9016 that you'll have to check into. I know nothing about British locos, rolling stock or the manufacturers. But you can either have all the same couplers for consistency sake or just match a rolling stock car to match the loco on one end and the other coupler to match the rolling stock. Micro trains does have a table listing the couplers that you can swap to fit that specific loco/rolling stock. Hope that helps and Happy railroading!
You'll have to adapt your engine's couplers to a knuckle. We don't use horn/hook or other types here as often as the knuckles are more reliable if taken care of(not beaten, dropped, etc). Kadee & Bachmann make NEM compatible knuckles for your engine.
Drinking Columbian Maxwell House. Question: Is it easy to replace a speaker in a locomotive? I messed mine up and need to replace it. Thank you! The locomotive is a ho scale Bachmann GP40.
Have you ever had to make a warranty claim on a locomotive you bought new and how does it work?
i was first click this morning...drinkin mennonite homeade java
1) Since North American freight railroads are private, they have their own way of conducting business and have to follow the rules of the free market (supply/demand) vs. other countries that are mostly government-ran. Government railroads can spend frivolously as they please because they don't have to worry about losses or operating inefficiently because it is the government, they can just tax, borrow, and print as much money as they please. Private companies can't so they have to operate more frugally thus why you will see the blending of locos and rolling stock from different eras together thus making the era system in North America untenable.
B) North American freight cars have dates on the side of them (unless it is a freight car meant to solely operate on the owner's railroad like the New York Central Pacemaker that originally only operated over New York Central lines), a NEW or BLT date. Go by the most recent date to determine what era it should be operating in. Also, FRA regulations made certain freight modifications illegal during certain years such as giant billboard adverts on reefers made illegal in the 1930s or 1940s(?) due to clamping down on the advertising collusion between railroads and private companies, steel cables forming a trapezoid beneath the frames of boxcars/reefers illegal in the 1930s, walkways on the top of boxcars/reefers illegal in the early 1980s, etc.
Passenger cars are different but usually by looking at them you can tell when they operated (wood 1800s-1920s, heavyweight Pullman steel 1920s-1970s, Budd/smoothsides 1930s-1980s). Of course, there are always exceptions, but these are the general rules.
Question for you: are you going to answer this question?