👍 one of the best builds I've seen great job on all 6 video wish there was more love your work keep this channel going thank you. Just got one question my build is very similar but ordered some rear hinge pins block's from custom RC upgrades to set the rear toe to zero(0)just came in today debating on putting it on don't want it to take handabilty out of car i know car is toe in rear from factory about 2 to 3 degrees what's your take on this upgrade please🙏give your advice doing small speed runs and drag car has 1717-1650 caselcreation motor with mmX8s combo car hit 120 and I'm happy with it running stock 27 34 gearing saga gears with flowpack spool set up car Handel's great now so what would be the the effect on 0 degree toe in rear? 🙏✌️
Thanks man I really appreciate it. The toe in helps to keep the car going straight. I know that sounds weird but yes. If you set it to 0 then the slightest misalignment on the front will make it drift left and right.
No bearing are definitely better. At this point in the build I had anticipated upgrading the steering rack so didn’t want to install them just to move them over later anyways.
My limitless has issue with tracking straight, the toe is still original settings out if box. Any tips to make it track straight? Im using a gyro buy its dialed down to like 30%. Did you adjust your toe or camber?
You should always check your toe and camber even if left from factory. The rear toe shouldn’t need adjusting and should point slightly in, don’t try to make the front perfectly straight, toe it out some. Camber should be set where the top of the wheels are slightly in towards the car, but set it with the batteries in. Let me know how it goes.
@@GoKaioken thanks. I think I'm gonna go with scorched. Enjoy watching your build videos. I'm building my first limitless v2 and I've learned a ton from watching raz you and zagert.
@@GoKaioken yeah I did the same and got stainless screws and grub screws for my kraton so I don’t have to worry as much about rust but I can tell the difference it is easier to strip out the stainless. That might just be me but also if you look it up stainless steel is softer than hardened steel and some unless the stock arrma screws aren’t hardened but I believe they are.
Not sure about the stock grub screws either. If they are hardened then the stainless steel may not be a good idea. However, I wonder. Do you think the less corrosion resistant steel contributes to rust seizing the grub and resulting in stripped grub screws? This is just a theory. I’m not super inclined to test it other than seeing how this stainless steel one holds up over time.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Just got a sweet used limitless roller I plan to make into a GT build, this series was great ty for doing it.
Kaioken........ TIMES 10!!!!!!! 😂
Really enjoy your content. I subbed.
Nice clean build. Awsome
Thank you very much
Josh, she looks beautiful great job and good video thanks for the tips I can’t wait to see you send it
Great information. Very nice build. 👍🏾💯💪🏾
Thank you!
Awesome vid bro.
you should be able to adjust the coilovers to even up the corner weights across the diagonals for perfect balance
👍 one of the best builds I've seen great job on all 6 video wish there was more love your work keep this channel going thank you. Just got one question my build is very similar but ordered some rear hinge pins block's from custom RC upgrades to set the rear toe to zero(0)just came in today debating on putting it on don't want it to take handabilty out of car i know car is toe in rear from factory about 2 to 3 degrees what's your take on this upgrade please🙏give your advice doing small speed runs and drag car has 1717-1650 caselcreation motor with mmX8s combo car hit 120 and I'm happy with it running stock 27 34 gearing saga gears with flowpack spool set up car Handel's great now so what would be the the effect on 0 degree toe in rear? 🙏✌️
Thanks man I really appreciate it. The toe in helps to keep the car going straight. I know that sounds weird but yes. If you set it to 0 then the slightest misalignment on the front will make it drift left and right.
Thanks man 👊👍 not putting it on that's what I thought forever grateful for the advice😁🤘✌️
Hey man how did you mount the gt body ? What posts did you use ?
Do you use perfect pass with castle blue tooth?
I used perfect pass in the past but I’ve stopped using it as I had some issues with it
Why not upgrade steering bearings? Are the stock bushings better?
No bearing are definitely better. At this point in the build I had anticipated upgrading the steering rack so didn’t want to install them just to move them over later anyways.
@@GoKaioken oh ok lol
My limitless has issue with tracking straight, the toe is still original settings out if box. Any tips to make it track straight? Im using a gyro buy its dialed down to like 30%. Did you adjust your toe or camber?
You should always check your toe and camber even if left from factory. The rear toe shouldn’t need adjusting and should point slightly in, don’t try to make the front perfectly straight, toe it out some. Camber should be set where the top of the wheels are slightly in towards the car, but set it with the batteries in. Let me know how it goes.
@@GoKaioken thank you, ill try that
What side skirts are you running
They are made by Kaye Customs
@@GoKaioken do you have a contact?
Reach out to Steven Richard Kaye or Austin Kaye.
@@GoKaioken on Fb?
Yep
Is that a flopak spool? How do you like it?
I don’t recommend it unfortunately.
@@GoKaioken thanks. I think I'm gonna go with scorched. Enjoy watching your build videos. I'm building my first limitless v2 and I've learned a ton from watching raz you and zagert.
@@riskaddictionrc awesome to hear! Thanks for your support! Scorched is an excellent option.
Dont use stainless steel grubs because stainless is softer and more likely to strip out
Really? Than the crap grub screws they give us??
@@GoKaioken yeah I did the same and got stainless screws and grub screws for my kraton so I don’t have to worry as much about rust but I can tell the difference it is easier to strip out the stainless. That might just be me but also if you look it up stainless steel is softer than hardened steel and some unless the stock arrma screws aren’t hardened but I believe they are.
Not sure about the stock grub screws either. If they are hardened then the stainless steel may not be a good idea. However, I wonder. Do you think the less corrosion resistant steel contributes to rust seizing the grub and resulting in stripped grub screws? This is just a theory. I’m not super inclined to test it other than seeing how this stainless steel one holds up over time.