I shoot straight from the hip. I have a '67 Beetle, very nice car. I have about $7500-8000 in it, and truly love my car. In the Florida market, to sell it fairly quickly I'd likely get $6000 ish for it. It is insured for $10K if totaled, collision & comprehensive, no deductible. As much as I love my car, it can be replaced. The filter is staying right where it is, in the engine department...if it burns, it burns.
Most of my beetles I have put it along side my transmission. Just out of paranoia. But a few I had in the engine compartment, never an issue. The main scare is the fitting in the top of the carb it attaches too, that ends up sliding out! Just like you explained!!
I’ve heard so many people say this about the filters being dangerous and both my bugs have them in the same spot as yours. I was thinking of moving them but now I will not. Thanks for this info. Now maybe I will jb weld that barb in place on the carb. Never would of thought about that.
Total agreement , while at Speedcraft Volkswagen, never saw 1 filter come apart and cause fire. Being in Rhode Island the fuel line would get brittle and in freezing weather the lines would spray gas all over. The carb inlet barb coming out was #2 problem. Nice Video
yea the colder climate comments II dont know anything about. Nissan has plastic filters in the engine compartments for many years even in the cold. no issues that i am aware of.
That's exactly what happened with mine - the filter didn't rupture but the rubber line to the filter cracked and sprayed all over the engine - I'm not sure how the car didn't catch fire. But this happens.
I’ve never seen one break either. Even the super old ones. I only replace them when they become translucent and I can’t see how much crap is in them anymore. I do run the hose up as high as I can towards the filter and I run double clamps. Don’t buy Chinese rubber hose! It only lasts a couple years. Great vid!
Very good point you're, making about the distance between fuel tank and carbs, I've ordered 2 fuel filters..1 glass and 1 metal which is now going where you're suggesting with this video and the glass filter will be fitted close to the fuel tank. Thanks Mike!
@@Mikefngarage ok, I will try the metal filter only and see how well it does. The glass filter was going to have pipe foam insulation sleave around it to protect it from breaking but less is more right?!
I like a filter before the pump. I do it so my pump will stay clean. Had a friend who had a rebuildable pump that went bad. He tore it apart and a chunk of rust had tore a hole in the diaphragm. I have also seen a filter pop because the alcohol in the gas ate away at the plastic. Guy had it after the pump and we think the pressure from the gas popped it.
From what i've seen it's the hose ends that fail not the filter. The ethanol melts the hose from the inside out causing fuel to leak where it connects to the filter. Fitting 100% bio proof hose is good insurance but expensive. In the UK they are still selling 'ethanol resistant' hose that is failing after 2 to 3 years.
The plastic fuel filters don't CAUSE the fire, but they DO make them FATAL for the engines once a fire has started. Take your old one drained of fuel, and toss in an outside fire pit sometime... Usually its the carb issue you mentioned spraying fuel on the generator and not the distributor that is the spark source. That or oil and soot buildup being everywhere and catching fire from the exhaust system/exhaust leaks... You really don't need the see thru aspect, and they should be changed annually with the weathers seasonal change since that's where the crappy fuel issue comes from in going hot to cold with condensation forming in the tank and the increased use of alcohol in the fuel supplies vs the one use hot shot that processes out in one or two tank fillups. You can use just the plastic tube if you want to see if fuel is flowing... but I prefer using a metal filter from a carbureted car on the firewall, there's one from a Fiat or Chevy if I'm remembering correctly that also fits in the coil mount brackets, so you can get an extra bracket and mount it on the firewall or fan housing.
for me it is just fine right there but I see your theory but to me the fuel in the line pumping is the biggest accelerant not the filter. 30000 cars or more in shops all around here over 35 years or more. never seen anything related to a fire from the filter only clamps or barb on carb.
Can you please carry the topic further? Can you speak about the various types of fuel pumps? Which is better and safer to run...a new pressed metal fuel pump or a cast pump that has a rebuild kit installed? Do the old cast fuel pumps have the same problems as the carb with the fuel inlet and outlet falling out??? Is it safer to use a pressed metal fuel pump vs a cast fuel pump? Which is more reliable? What is your opinion of the new repopped cast fuel pumps that CIP.1 and others now sell?...thanks!
yea hard to do that since it is all over the place some good runs some bad even the rebuild kits are hit and miss. just gotta check that oil level for rising.
I had that exact thing happen on my '67 westy. It would stall once up to fwy speed. Took me a bit to figure it out. I've seen them crack, but never result in a fire. Most engine fires I've known were usually caused by the STEEL fuel line being cut by the sharp forward tin hole where it pierces the front tin. The lines were never secured or had any protection for the line coming through the tin. Yes, we all need to peen the fitting on the carb.
I’m with you! My first car was a ‘72 bug I got in ‘74. It had the filter where yours is, from the factory, and I never had an issue. Drove it 10 years, put 300k miles…HARD Teenager First Car Miles…rebuilt the engine 3 times, and still never an issue. And like you, I favor having it where I could keep an eye on it. Those german engineers were SMART…hundreds of years of combined experience…and you want to second guess that? Of course they weren’t infallible, as illustrated by the issues with the nipple popping out of the carb, which is a very real and verified issue…but hey…nobody’s perfect.
Engine compartment fires typically happen from the brass inlet tube going into the carburetor coming out. That brass tube is swaged in and over time will work it's way loose spaying gas all over the engine compartment. We would epoxy those tubes in place on VWs we serviced.
Colour of your filter just proves how essential they are and your placement looks spot-on. Just got a 71 car without a filter and thinking of getting a glass one for just few pounds more - Oh oh, writing as you are talking and you have poo-pooed glass!...... Help, cancel ebay order quick like!
sometimes guys knurl it and push it back in. some guys use j and b weld But I would always aslo put a piece of bailing wire around the clamp and pull it tight to one of the carb bolts as a leash or replace the carb.
There are metal cased filters available that are a bit safer than the plastic "umbrella" ones. And U should never use an umbrella filter in the pressure loop of a fuel injected car, scares the shit out of me. Those filters are NOT meant for 28-30 Lbs. of pressure. I change the filter on my 76 fuely every year.
I have mine behind the front tin, next to the transmission. Have you seen the ones that go where I have mine, but they have a bracket especially made for a type 1 trans? The bracket is affixed to the trans and holds a filter...pretty snazzy.
VW already put a filter in the pump. These are just a lazy trend that as you say induce a failure at the hose joints. You are correct the filter does not fail but there are now two more unnecessary fuel joints to fail in the worst possible location.
The filter in the tank is great. It's also up off the bottom of the tank .. so there is no chance of any sediment getting into the fuel line. A new issue I'm seeing .. is the Ethanol is really eating the steel fuel line .. in the tunnel. Now that's a real problem !
they DO make those glass and metal filters. Parts stores sell them. i have one on a little Honda 50cc scooter but it's way down low away from all electrical and exhaust so it's safe enough. I bought it as a strainer for a diesel RV down along the frame rail but it was leaky so i took it off. It already gets bad enough mpg without it leaking.
Need to make sure your filters are from a reputable source. I’ve tested these types of filters for a major engine manufacturer and some Chinese filters had about a 6% leak rate. 6 out of 100 failed leak test. Another problem is some manufacturers don’t have good control of their welding process, and the filters passed a leak check, but would pop open after a few thermal cycles. Those were from a US manufacturer, and caused a million dollar recall of lawnmower engines. The problem was traced to the first shift on Monday morning, they weren’t letting the machine that welds the filters warm up enough and got poor welds. I use the metal filters, and wrap them to prevent vapor lock.
Thanks! rerouted mine and went to a metal body filter just because i know first hand how bad Asian quality control can be. key thing is your advice is based on 1st hand experience and data points. not the collective vw people passing on what they have heard with no hard evidence behind it. over time people treat it like word of the vw gods.
Also...is it safe for the metal fuel line to contact the manifold? Will this heat on the metal fuel line cause a fire or cause the motor to run bad due to the heated gasoline???
well I an just giving people data so they can make their own decision. Figured this would help the people who read the comments not be afraid to put it there and or if they move it they will watch out for important stuff.
Someone does offer a threaded barbed carb insert that ensures it'll stay put. But Why put the filter on the pressure side? Even if the filter isn't the failure point, the connection may be and you are adding a potential failure point under pressure. Ethanol is brutal on those rubber lines. Newer FI hose is rated well above our pressures and holds up really well to the ethanol. No getting around maintenance!
Yes Mike I concur I've never seen one of those plastic filters fail. It's happend to me that brass fitting that pressed into the carb comes out more often but thankfully never had a engine fire . By the way is your dub a 12 volt? Could you show us how to wire a alternator to these old 6 volt cars. Thanks for the info on these fuel filters.
So sad to see this placement of a fuel filter. On my cars I place one under the fuel tank and one coming out of the frame horns. NEVER in the engine room. There is always a first time. I use a electric fuel pump ( 4 lbs. ) and dual Webers. I use AN lines and fittings.
@@Mikefngarage ok say it barely has any gasoline in it? At first I thought vapor lock but more something with the carburetor. 1st I couldn’t keep the car to leave 1st without it dying I took off the decklid and it ran better 🤷🏻♀️ Now decking lid is back on got a tune up from a very reputable mechanic in the vw community & car was/is desieling when I turn off the car after a good car ride (1 hour or so) a couple days ago car died on me so now I don’t even want to drive it far from home Mechanic said bad gasoline said I got a lower grade but I’m sure I didn’t make that mistake I did go to a different station but I’m positive I got premium gasoline I’m not sure what to look for I also don’t want to be that annoying female bugging the mechanic
Show me pictures of the original German VW manuals where the gas filter is in or near where the engine is, or even a Brazilian VW or Mexican VW manual, go to the source.
there is no gas filter in the car. and the do get small pieces of stuff in them if you dont have one. I have seen more then 30k cars that have never had any issues with the filter right where it is. NEVER seen an engine fire from that or ever heard of one. Only people think it was the filter and it was the carb inlet that came out of the carb.
been working on these for more than 35 years and know other shops who have been in business more than 40 verified with them the same information I talk about.
The idiot who fitted this introduced three additional points of failure on the pressurised side of the fuel line so if it fails its right next to a device for creating high voltage sparks aptly named the ignition system. Intelligent people would place it where leaks were unlikely to be ignited. Besides as Mr. Ledwinka had thought one necessary when he designed the car he placed a cleanable filter in the fuel pump Mr. Porsche would have copied him and included it in the Volkswan
well if that were the case the fuel in the line would be in jeopardy too. or the metal line on the 36hp or the metal line next to the spark plug wires. I am not buying that theory. But if it floats your boat and makes you feel better roll with it.
I shoot straight from the hip. I have a '67 Beetle, very nice car. I have about $7500-8000 in it, and truly love my car. In the Florida market, to sell it fairly quickly I'd likely get $6000 ish for it. It is insured for $10K if totaled, collision & comprehensive, no deductible. As much as I love my car, it can be replaced. The filter is staying right where it is, in the engine department...if it burns, it burns.
I would be totally shocked if it did but I like the idea of the insurance that's cool
They did not come with a filter. They have 2 screens. Tank and pump
Most of my beetles I have put it along side my transmission. Just out of paranoia. But a few I had in the engine compartment, never an issue. The main scare is the fitting in the top of the carb it attaches too, that ends up sliding out! Just like you explained!!
So true brother... that dang fitting always seems to get loose. The safety wire trick is pretty sweet!
JW Classic VW Yes the safety wire dies work. I think there is a threaded barbed fitting in some now.
I’ve heard so many people say this about the filters being dangerous and both my bugs have them in the same spot as yours. I was thinking of moving them but now I will not. Thanks for this info. Now maybe I will jb weld that barb in place on the carb. Never would of thought about that.
use bailing wire to make a leash from the clamp near the carb to one of the carb bolts. Best insurance. pull it tight.
Total agreement , while at Speedcraft Volkswagen, never saw 1 filter come apart and cause fire. Being in Rhode Island the fuel line would get brittle and in freezing weather the lines would spray gas all over. The carb inlet barb coming out was #2 problem. Nice Video
yea the colder climate comments II dont know anything about. Nissan has plastic filters in the engine compartments for many years even in the cold. no issues that i am aware of.
That's exactly what happened with mine - the filter didn't rupture but the rubber line to the filter cracked and sprayed all over the engine - I'm not sure how the car didn't catch fire. But this happens.
I’ve never seen one break either. Even the super old ones. I only replace them when they become translucent and I can’t see how much crap is in them anymore. I do run the hose up as high as I can towards the filter and I run double clamps. Don’t buy Chinese rubber hose! It only lasts a couple years. Great vid!
Yup yup!! Gotta stay away from the crappy hose!
Very good point you're, making about the distance between fuel tank and carbs, I've ordered 2 fuel filters..1 glass and 1 metal which is now going where you're suggesting with this video and the glass filter will be fitted close to the fuel tank. Thanks Mike!
Watch the glass one I wouldn't use it but that's up to you saw several they work their way loose no matter where they're located
@@Mikefngarage ok, I will try the metal filter only and see how well it does. The glass filter was going to have pipe foam insulation sleave around it to protect it from breaking but less is more right?!
@@silversurfer233 yeah I had one of those glass filters a long time ago... it was super cool but always seemed to leak
Newer cars with fuel injection run fuel pressure at 60+ psi and have plastic lines all over the place. Your filter is not a problem !
yea for sure plastic hose at 60lbs or 3lbs in a vw. ha ha some do 7.
I like a filter before the pump. I do it so my pump will stay clean. Had a friend who had a rebuildable pump that went bad. He tore it apart and a chunk of rust had tore a hole in the diaphragm. I have also seen a filter pop because the alcohol in the gas ate away at the plastic. Guy had it after the pump and we think the pressure from the gas popped it.
well that is weird these only have about I think 3lbs of fuel pressure. kind of hard for them to pop.
@@Mikefngarage sorry forgot to mention that it was a fuel injection engine. About 30psi.
@@donaldprater5099 yes then I would not put one of those filters in the pressure line.
I had a pump ruined to because of a small piece of garbage got into small valve and it quite
From what i've seen it's the hose ends that fail not the filter.
The ethanol melts the hose from the inside out causing fuel to leak where it connects to the filter.
Fitting 100% bio proof hose is good insurance but expensive.
In the UK they are still selling 'ethanol resistant' hose that is failing after 2 to 3 years.
Yes you got it!!! Those old hoses hate the crappy ethnol gas.... ugh
The plastic fuel filters don't CAUSE the fire, but they DO make them FATAL for the engines once a fire has started. Take your old one drained of fuel, and toss in an outside fire pit sometime... Usually its the carb issue you mentioned spraying fuel on the generator and not the distributor that is the spark source. That or oil and soot buildup being everywhere and catching fire from the exhaust system/exhaust leaks... You really don't need the see thru aspect, and they should be changed annually with the weathers seasonal change since that's where the crappy fuel issue comes from in going hot to cold with condensation forming in the tank and the increased use of alcohol in the fuel supplies vs the one use hot shot that processes out in one or two tank fillups. You can use just the plastic tube if you want to see if fuel is flowing... but I prefer using a metal filter from a carbureted car on the firewall, there's one from a Fiat or Chevy if I'm remembering correctly that also fits in the coil mount brackets, so you can get an extra bracket and mount it on the firewall or fan housing.
for me it is just fine right there but I see your theory but to me the fuel in the line pumping is the biggest accelerant not the filter. 30000 cars or more in shops all around here over 35 years or more. never seen anything related to a fire from the filter only clamps or barb on carb.
Can you please carry the topic further? Can you speak about the various types of fuel pumps? Which is better and safer to run...a new pressed metal fuel pump or a cast pump that has a rebuild kit installed? Do the old cast fuel pumps have the same problems as the carb with the fuel inlet and outlet falling out??? Is it safer to use a pressed metal fuel pump vs a cast fuel pump? Which is more reliable? What is your opinion of the new repopped cast fuel pumps that CIP.1 and others now sell?...thanks!
yea hard to do that since it is all over the place some good runs some bad even the rebuild kits are hit and miss. just gotta check that oil level for rising.
I had that exact thing happen on my '67 westy. It would stall once up to fwy speed. Took me a bit to figure it out. I've seen them crack, but never result in a fire. Most engine fires I've known were usually caused by the STEEL fuel line being cut by the sharp forward tin hole where it pierces the front tin. The lines were never secured or had any protection for the line coming through the tin. Yes, we all need to peen the fitting on the carb.
I’m with you! My first car was a ‘72 bug I got in ‘74. It had the filter where yours is, from the factory, and I never had an issue. Drove it 10 years, put 300k miles…HARD Teenager First Car Miles…rebuilt the engine 3 times, and still never an issue. And like you, I favor having it where I could keep an eye on it. Those german engineers were SMART…hundreds of years of combined experience…and you want to second guess that? Of course they weren’t infallible, as illustrated by the issues with the nipple popping out of the carb, which is a very real and verified issue…but hey…nobody’s perfect.
Engine compartment fires typically happen from the brass inlet tube going into the carburetor coming out. That brass tube is swaged in and over time will work it's way loose spaying gas all over the engine compartment. We would epoxy those tubes in place on VWs we serviced.
Colour of your filter just proves how essential they are and your placement looks spot-on. Just got a 71 car without a filter and thinking of getting a glass one for just few pounds more - Oh oh, writing as you are talking and you have poo-pooed glass!...... Help, cancel ebay order quick like!
Very informative Mike, but what is the fix for the inlet barb on the Solex working loose?
sometimes guys knurl it and push it back in. some guys use j and b weld But I would always aslo put a piece of bailing wire around the clamp and pull it tight to one of the carb bolts as a leash or replace the carb.
There are metal cased filters available that are a bit safer than the plastic "umbrella" ones. And U should never use an umbrella filter in the pressure loop of a fuel injected car, scares the shit out of me. Those filters are NOT meant for 28-30 Lbs. of pressure. I change the filter on my 76 fuely every year.
Im thinking max fuel pressure 7lbs on a mechanical pump but on the 36hp I read 3lbs,
I have mine behind the front tin, next to the transmission.
Have you seen the ones that go where I have mine, but they have a bracket especially made for a type 1 trans? The bracket is affixed to the trans and holds a filter...pretty snazzy.
now that makes it pretty bulletproof
That little bracket is super nice I'm thinking about fabing one up for my 56.
OkFixer Hey where do you find those at???
@@SladesVWBeetle yea that is cool
@@SladesVWBeetle just google classic vw beetle fuel filter mount....and go to images.
You will see various styles.
VW already put a filter in the pump. These are just a lazy trend that as you say induce a failure at the hose joints. You are correct the filter does not fail but there are now two more unnecessary fuel joints to fail in the worst possible location.
There is a filter in the tank to... kinda wonder how well it works. You know that little sock filter.
The filter in the tank is great. It's also up off the bottom of the tank .. so there is no chance of any sediment getting into the fuel line.
A new issue I'm seeing .. is the Ethanol is really eating the steel fuel line .. in the tunnel.
Now that's a real problem !
they DO make those glass and metal filters. Parts stores sell them. i have one on a little Honda 50cc scooter but it's way down low away from all electrical and exhaust so it's safe enough. I bought it as a strainer for a diesel RV down along the frame rail but it was leaky so i took it off. It already gets bad enough mpg without it leaking.
Need to make sure your filters are from a reputable source. I’ve tested these types of filters for a major engine manufacturer and some Chinese filters had about a 6% leak rate. 6 out of 100 failed leak test. Another problem is some manufacturers don’t have good control of their welding process, and the filters passed a leak check, but would pop open after a few thermal cycles. Those were from a US manufacturer, and caused a million dollar recall of lawnmower engines. The problem was traced to the first shift on Monday morning, they weren’t letting the machine that welds the filters warm up enough and got poor welds. I use the metal filters, and wrap them to prevent vapor lock.
Thanks! rerouted mine and went to a metal body filter just because i know first hand how bad Asian quality control can be. key thing is your advice is based on 1st hand experience and data points. not the collective vw people passing on what they have heard with no hard evidence behind it. over time people treat it like word of the vw gods.
Also...is it safe for the metal fuel line to contact the manifold? Will this heat on the metal fuel line cause a fire or cause the motor to run bad due to the heated gasoline???
sometimes on a really hot day vapor lock. on the fuel metal line can wrap it in hose to prevent that but no fires I have seen or heard of ever.
I would think just B4 the fuel pump . Sits under distributor. Filters fuel B4 going into pump and carburetor...
I feel that this will always be a controversy
well I an just giving people data so they can make their own decision. Figured this would help the people who read the comments not be afraid to put it there and or if they move it they will watch out for important stuff.
It will always be a matter of choice for sure... we normally stick with what works for us... just always have that fire extinguisher ready to go... 😃😃
Someone does offer a threaded barbed carb insert that ensures it'll stay put. But Why put the filter on the pressure side? Even if the filter isn't the failure point, the connection may be and you are adding a potential failure point under pressure. Ethanol is brutal on those rubber lines. Newer FI hose is rated well above our pressures and holds up really well to the ethanol. No getting around maintenance!
some of the new replacement carbs have that too. worth the money. IMO.
Quickie Question, new to your channel, have you ever seen or had experience with the PROPANE conversions for these? Your opinion about them?
very long ago people did that and it is OK but I would do a e85 instead today
Yes Mike I concur I've never seen one of those plastic filters fail. It's happend to me that brass fitting that pressed into the carb comes out more often but thankfully never had a engine fire . By the way is your dub a 12 volt? Could you show us how to wire a alternator to these old 6 volt cars. Thanks for the info on these fuel filters.
Use a Chrysler style steel canister inline filter over the plastic junk.
So sad to see this placement of a fuel filter. On my cars I place one under the fuel tank and one coming out of the frame horns. NEVER in the engine room. There is always a first time. I use a electric fuel pump ( 4 lbs. ) and dual Webers. I use AN lines and fittings.
Over 40 years and 30.000 cars and never had an issue.....I think I am pretty safe.
Kept having problems with the fuel rod and decided as an easy way to fix it is to get an electric one
Bug’s ran forever without filters. Rust will come from the gastank
*stupid question*
How much gasoline should be in that little filter?
usually half way to near full.
@@Mikefngarage ok say it barely has any gasoline in it?
At first I thought vapor lock but more something with the carburetor. 1st I couldn’t keep the car to leave 1st without it dying I took off the decklid and it ran better 🤷🏻♀️
Now decking lid is back on got a tune up from a very reputable mechanic in the vw community & car was/is desieling when I turn off the car after a good car ride (1 hour or so) a couple days ago car died on me so now I don’t even want to drive it far from home
Mechanic said bad gasoline said I got a lower grade but I’m sure I didn’t make that mistake I did go to a different station but I’m positive I got premium gasoline
I’m not sure what to look for
I also don’t want to be that annoying female bugging the mechanic
Show me pictures of the original German VW manuals where the gas filter is in or near where the engine is, or even a Brazilian VW or Mexican VW manual, go to the source.
there is no gas filter in the car. and the do get small pieces of stuff in them if you dont have one. I have seen more then 30k cars that have never had any issues with the filter right where it is. NEVER seen an engine fire from that or ever heard of one. Only people think it was the filter and it was the carb inlet that came out of the carb.
been working on these for more than 35 years and know other shops who have been in business more than 40 verified with them the same information I talk about.
The idiot who fitted this introduced three additional points of failure on the pressurised side of the fuel line so if it fails its right next to a device for creating high voltage sparks aptly named the ignition system. Intelligent people would place it where leaks were unlikely to be ignited.
Besides as Mr. Ledwinka had thought one necessary when he designed the car he placed a cleanable filter in the fuel pump Mr. Porsche would have copied him and included it in the Volkswan
well if that were the case the fuel in the line would be in jeopardy too. or the metal line on the 36hp or the metal line next to the spark plug wires. I am not buying that theory. But if it floats your boat and makes you feel better roll with it.
What about under gas tank?