thanks for watching and the question, no, no need to disconnect transmission from engine. Watch my video on changing engine mounts. You only need to loosen the transmission mounting bolts from the cross member to allow the engine and transmission to elevate high enough. Tranny Mount: ruclips.net/video/dMxZEbdZP8U/видео.html / Engine Mount (passenger): ruclips.net/video/CqNFDROCnz8/видео.html / Engine Mount (driver): ruclips.net/video/yl6bazFkaIw/видео.html
I found a way to do this on my 03 4x4 without jacking up the engine, removing abs mount, front driveshaft, or the starter. Granted my truck has a 5 inch RC lift making the clearance in my wheel wells a little more manageable. Biggest issue is finding which manifold studs are impossible to reinstall after fitting the header on and going from there(lots of trial and error). Driver side is annoying but everything is common sense with patience. Passenger side you will need to remove transmission dipstick(get a bucket) to fit it in. The most difficult part is finding a way to hold 3 of the studs(impossible to install after) onto the header in exactly the right spot before putting onto the head. It gave me just enough access to be able to tighten down behind the tubes. Studs will fall, you will get frustrated, but I’m just here to say it is possible.
Powergo Motorsports shorties. This job was extremely difficult and the way you did it is much more effective. With my truck being lifted I just don’t not have the means to raise the engine safely so I really needed to think outside the box on the passenger side install. Also wanted to say I appreciate your videos, they have helped a lot with my truck👍
I often heard that it’s easier if you crank the truck and let it run until it reaches operating temp, then shut it off and remove manifold bolts. Sounds like a good way to get burnt but I’ve always heard they’re much less likely to break off.
That might be a possibility once you take your fender liner out to get Good access. But I had no problem since I soaked mine with penetrant for weeks before trying to remove. I only had to break and use EZ outs to get them out. I’d be concerned about all that heat
After finding broken studs on passenger side, I ordered these pacesetter headers and gasket you recommended…I’ll finally replace the oil filter housing gasket as well, been leaking for years! Thanks for the video, there’s not many that show the shorty’s on our 10th gen f150’s!
Glad this video helped, I love the headers, but you will need to keep an eye on the mounting bolts to be sure they stay tight. I'm dealing with this problem right now... and when you change your oil filter housing gasket, make sure you change the oil, you'll likely get some coolant in the crankcase during this project. Let me know how it goes.
@@DrivingIntelligence I appreciate the heads up on the bolts, I have heard this can be a potential issue. Yes sir, I'm timing the oil filter housing gasket with an oil change and complete coolant flush (rad. and block). I'll let you know how it goes, I'm a few weeks out from digging into it.
@@DrivingIntelligence Well, I spent the last four days working on the truck. Had to replace a leaking heater hose, got the oil filter housing gasket replaced and got the shorty pacesetters on!! Thanks for the videos and advice, it helped a lot....those headers were definitely a job and I'll keep an eye on those header bolts, they were hard enough to get tight in the first place! LOL
@@rickyrazor977 Glad it all worked out! I'm doing an exhaust project right now that showed me where my exhaust leak is located, the passenger side header flange. The bolts loosened ALOT! Watch for those as well.
Paid 900$ for my truck and as soon as I picked it up the exhaust manifold broke on 2 of the chambers had to replace it in my driveway the one week of that year it was around 15 degrees out lets just say i was cursing a lot that day haha
Hey man, you got a link for the trim piece on the steering column that holds the boost gauge? Great videos , appreciate the effort put into the videos and the knowledge you are passing down.... great value. TYVM
That stud obviously has been broken before you took it out, because the end is completely rusted over. Doing the same thing on my Expedition in a few weeks. I’m keeping my mig welder close by for the inevitable broken studs. I bought all stainless hardware for the install as well as layered copper header gaskets.
For anyone undertaking this in future I'll add that I can't complain with the fit of the Chinese Stainless Shortys on Ebay/Amazon for 120 bux. My app was a '02 4.6 2WD and I used Mr. Gasket super soft gaskets. Now one thing (2 really) I will stress is clearance on pass. side collecter. I notched my rear, upper A-arm bracker with a torch and also the motor mount plate on engine. I also then didn't have to jack up engine. There was no way around that on my truck because for some reason, my trucks bracket was square towards engine, not notched from factory. The collector could not be anywhere else so I still claim them to fit. Driver's side was cake compared to pass side even with EGR tube. That fit perfect, go figure. Is this worth doing? Tough call. I don't recall any car/truck headers to be fun on vehicle and I haven't changed my stock muff. yet to love the sound. I know it's usually a tone I prefer. I think I feel a lil kick in the butt @ 2-3500 rpm when accel. quick. I had a small leak and broken stud on drive side so was going to have to fix that anyway. Had I done pass. side first, I may have thrown in towel but knew I was wrapping it up when thru with pass. YMMV.
Do I use typical manifold studs on these headers? Just planning on using Dorman stainless that look to be copper coated with copper anti-seize. Does this sound ok to you?
Sorry for not getting back sooner, I would definitely use stainless studs, I used the studs that came with the headers and they are superficially rusty.
They appear to be working out well, but I do have a flange leak that sounds like a bird chirping at start-up. I think I need to remove the exhaust and clean up the flange to ensure its tight.
@@DrivingIntelligence summit racing has these headers for $219 shipped under part number sum-9047.. I will also be installing the SPD Y pipe... Regarding the flanges..thank you for that info. I will plane them before installing... My concern are the EGR tubes... Will I be able to fit them...? This is going into an e350 van.. I may just head over to a muffler shop.. initiate the install in their parking lot and if I have issues... The shop is there.. Contemplating on header wrapping them as well
Thanks for that info. I wasn’t clear. The flange to head mating service was very good. I’m referring to the flange to my stock exhaust. Kinda a ball and socket. It keeps loosening and chirping. As far as the EGR tube is concerned, it wasn’t an easy fit. I had to bend my tube to work with the headers. EGR bung on header was not in perfect location.
@@DrivingIntelligence thank you... I will note that flange .. as for the EGR.. I am contemplating on deleting it... If I go with this header.. I was told EGR bung placement is better on the 2000-2005 excursion headers... Yeah ..those things cost over $700... I can't wait for your next I take manifold video... I have some questions to ask you
Those studs break because they're subpar metal and not the correct strength for their prestretch. I have a buddy who pointed it out to his lead engineer at Ford every week for like 2 years. Ford said they didn't care
Do these headers fit on 2004 expedition 4.6? I been looking for headers for mine and most headers say up to 2003 but 2004 expo has same motor I believe Do you know if these headers only for the 2v 4.6 ?
Great video you just convinced me not to do this to my own vehicle. -) when my stock exhaust broke on the passenger side I decided then yes to replace it with a stock exhaust manifold. I figured if my driver side was to go then I would switch to shorty headers. It really looks too much of a pain in the butt to try. For now if I ever need to pull or lift my engine out that's when I will make the decision. Really good video I'm glad you took the time to make it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience doing this.
Great video..I like how you mention do certain things while their accessible cause who wants to get into those boots ever again. I got a 03 f150 2 legger it's just to go to work and school. I'm not looking for any preforance upgrades per say and would actually very much to have it sound as stock as possible. My question to you is were these pretty quiet or did the add some grunt? Thankyou in advanced God bless! Keep making these vidoes
Thanks for commenting and reaching out. Really does not make your vehicle any louder. Actually sounds better to me. I'm not for loud exhaust either, but I do want the better performance. Stay tuned and share my content!
Nice im looking into some as i just got a 03 F150. Larryet super crew 4×4 had tras redone looking for a lower mile coyote with a super charger now putting new dully rear end any advice
I've not got any experience with that conversion, but there are many 10th Generation Forums that cover your build goals. Check them out on Facebook, or do a Google search. Keep in touch and let me know how it goes.
They are supposed to bolt up, and mine generally did, although as I think I showed in the video, I had to pull the exhaust system back to get the passenger side header in.
You can also stick a vacuum hose in the exhaust pipe, set it to blow, and spray all exhaust flanges w soapy water. Then you can chase after all the bubbles. Works mint.
It's a good question. I've never installed headers on a 4.6. The dimensions between two two engines are roughly the same except for a higher deck height with the 5.4. It's a bit of a project either way, biggest problem being the studs if they are rusted and break, installation of the EGR Tube and having clearance between the stock exhaust and the shorties once they are bolted to the head.
@@DrivingIntelligence thanks for the information! I ask because I'm in the process of replacing the heads. Currently, the heads are back on, timing chain is on, and oil pan. That's it. Wheel wells are already taken out and I will be doing a non pi to pi head/intake swap. Figured with l the upgrades I should improve the exhaust a bit and was worried the stock Manifolds would be too restrictive. Wanted to do shorty headers but was worried about the install being difficult
I can't lie, getting some of those header bolts in will be challenging. But I did it. I like the look, the sound and there was some performance improvement. Let me know how it turns out and what you decide to do.
@@DrivingIntelligence thanks for the info! I think I accidentally deleted my previous comment. I am trying to buy the ones in your video or another that I found on Amazon. They only have one hole though, I assume this is for the EGR. What's the second hole for? If it's for the oxygen sensor, how do you work around that? I'll be getting a tune either way, but I do need to get it on the road first so it needs to pass inspection
The shorties I have an in most cases will only have a threaded EGR hole. The O2 Sensors mound downstream of the shorties. If you use long tube headers, they will have an O2 sensor built into the collector. Does that answer your question?
I will be honest, it took alot of muscle to get that EGR tube back on. Once you get it on, the heat will allow it to somewhat form to it's new attachments.
@@DrivingIntelligence for posterity sake I will add on my particular truck (4.6, 2WD) once I loosened the top, it went right back on. Maybe a little flex to it.
Not really, although I have not checked via my fuel mileage loop. I had already tuned the engine with a custom tune from 5-Star. This included all of my other mods that improved fuel economy. Check out my video on improving 10th Gen Fuel Economy - ruclips.net/video/uCerPykH4pA/видео.html
@@DrivingIntelligence yeah, I've noticed the mom6i saw that transfer case...well I was asking because I own a 01 f150 with the 4.6...luckily it has the aluminum intake and I was looking for a set of headders for it. And till now I have no luck finding some.
@@PBWillyWonka Good morning Mr. Wonka, check out Summit. I just went on their site and see shorties for the 4.6. I believe the head configuration is the same at the 5.4, not sure. Don't take my word for it, but as I noted, there are shorties on Summit for your engine and year. Check them out. And please subscribe!
![FNAF vs TF2 - Episode 2 [SFM]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z5b3V2-VLb0/mqdefault.jpg)
Do you have to disconnect engine from transmission to jack it up enough?
thanks for watching and the question, no, no need to disconnect transmission from engine. Watch my video on changing engine mounts. You only need to loosen the transmission mounting bolts from the cross member to allow the engine and transmission to elevate high enough. Tranny Mount: ruclips.net/video/dMxZEbdZP8U/видео.html / Engine Mount (passenger): ruclips.net/video/CqNFDROCnz8/видео.html / Engine Mount (driver): ruclips.net/video/yl6bazFkaIw/видео.html
I found a way to do this on my 03 4x4 without jacking up the engine, removing abs mount, front driveshaft, or the starter. Granted my truck has a 5 inch RC lift making the clearance in my wheel wells a little more manageable. Biggest issue is finding which manifold studs are impossible to reinstall after fitting the header on and going from there(lots of trial and error). Driver side is annoying but everything is common sense with patience. Passenger side you will need to remove transmission dipstick(get a bucket) to fit it in. The most difficult part is finding a way to hold 3 of the studs(impossible to install after) onto the header in exactly the right spot before putting onto the head. It gave me just enough access to be able to tighten down behind the tubes. Studs will fall, you will get frustrated, but I’m just here to say it is possible.
good comment. Which shorties did you use?
Powergo Motorsports shorties. This job was extremely difficult and the way you did it is much more effective. With my truck being lifted I just don’t not have the means to raise the engine safely so I really needed to think outside the box on the passenger side install. Also wanted to say I appreciate your videos, they have helped a lot with my truck👍
@mikevest7184 thanks very much!
I often heard that it’s easier if you crank the truck and let it run until it reaches operating temp, then shut it off and remove manifold bolts. Sounds like a good way to get burnt but I’ve always heard they’re much less likely to break off.
That might be a possibility once you take your fender liner out to get Good access. But I had no problem since I soaked mine with penetrant for weeks before trying to remove. I only had to break and use EZ outs to get them out. I’d be concerned about all that heat
After finding broken studs on passenger side, I ordered these pacesetter headers and gasket you recommended…I’ll finally replace the oil filter housing gasket as well, been leaking for years! Thanks for the video, there’s not many that show the shorty’s on our 10th gen f150’s!
Glad this video helped, I love the headers, but you will need to keep an eye on the mounting bolts to be sure they stay tight. I'm dealing with this problem right now... and when you change your oil filter housing gasket, make sure you change the oil, you'll likely get some coolant in the crankcase during this project. Let me know how it goes.
@@DrivingIntelligence I appreciate the heads up on the bolts, I have heard this can be a potential issue. Yes sir, I'm timing the oil filter housing gasket with an oil change and complete coolant flush (rad. and block). I'll let you know how it goes, I'm a few weeks out from digging into it.
@@rickyrazor977 sounds like a great project. Good luck and look forward to hearing your progress.
@@DrivingIntelligence Well, I spent the last four days working on the truck. Had to replace a leaking heater hose, got the oil filter housing gasket replaced and got the shorty pacesetters on!! Thanks for the videos and advice, it helped a lot....those headers were definitely a job and I'll keep an eye on those header bolts, they were hard enough to get tight in the first place! LOL
@@rickyrazor977 Glad it all worked out! I'm doing an exhaust project right now that showed me where my exhaust leak is located, the passenger side header flange. The bolts loosened ALOT! Watch for those as well.
Paid 900$ for my truck and as soon as I picked it up the exhaust manifold broke on 2 of the chambers had to replace it in my driveway the one week of that year it was around 15 degrees out lets just say i was cursing a lot that day haha
Holy cow... that is bad... I can not imagine doing that in that temp, but it does remind me doing work on my cars in Ohio during the winter. ugh!
Your channel is the bomb
Thanks very much, more content coming!
Hey man, you got a link for the trim piece on the steering column that holds the boost gauge? Great videos , appreciate the effort put into the videos and the knowledge you are passing down.... great value. TYVM
Thank you very much for your comment! Here is a link for that gauge pod: amzn.to/40vPNzj - let me know if you have any ideas for future videos.
That stud obviously has been broken before you took it out, because the end is completely rusted over. Doing the same thing on my Expedition in a few weeks. I’m keeping my mig welder close by for the inevitable broken studs. I bought all stainless hardware for the install as well as layered copper header gaskets.
I need to develop some welding skills
For anyone undertaking this in future I'll add that I can't complain with the fit of the Chinese Stainless Shortys on Ebay/Amazon for 120 bux. My app was a '02 4.6 2WD and I used Mr. Gasket super soft gaskets. Now one thing (2 really) I will stress is clearance on pass. side collecter. I notched my rear, upper A-arm bracker with a torch and also the motor mount plate on engine. I also then didn't have to jack up engine. There was no way around that on my truck because for some reason, my trucks bracket was square towards engine, not notched from factory. The collector could not be anywhere else so I still claim them to fit. Driver's side was cake compared to pass side even with EGR tube. That fit perfect, go figure. Is this worth doing? Tough call. I don't recall any car/truck headers to be fun on vehicle and I haven't changed my stock muff. yet to love the sound. I know it's usually a tone I prefer. I think I feel a lil kick in the butt @ 2-3500 rpm when accel. quick. I had a small leak and broken stud on drive side so was going to have to fix that anyway. Had I done pass. side first, I may have thrown in towel but knew I was wrapping it up when thru with pass. YMMV.
Thanks for this info… with my shorties, no notching required. EGR tube was biggest fitment issue.
@@DrivingIntelligence 4.6 sits lower after looking at a 5.4. I think they use the same headers instead of making the collector higher.
BTW. I love your content. Is exactly what questions and concerns I have for modding mine.
@@lesliehorwinkle good to know...
@@lesliehorwinkle thank you!
Do I use typical manifold studs on these headers? Just planning on using Dorman stainless that look to be copper coated with copper anti-seize. Does this sound ok to you?
Sorry for not getting back sooner, I would definitely use stainless studs, I used the studs that came with the headers and they are superficially rusty.
Thank you.. I was recommended these shorty headers for my 97 E350....
They appear to be working out well, but I do have a flange leak that sounds like a bird chirping at start-up. I think I need to remove the exhaust and clean up the flange to ensure its tight.
@@DrivingIntelligence summit racing has these headers for $219 shipped under part number sum-9047.. I will also be installing the SPD Y pipe...
Regarding the flanges..thank you for that info. I will plane them before installing... My concern are the EGR tubes... Will I be able to fit them...? This is going into an e350 van..
I may just head over to a muffler shop.. initiate the install in their parking lot and if I have issues... The shop is there..
Contemplating on header wrapping them as well
Thanks for that info. I wasn’t clear. The flange to head mating service was very good. I’m referring to the flange to my stock exhaust. Kinda a ball and socket. It keeps loosening and chirping. As far as the EGR tube is concerned, it wasn’t an easy fit. I had to bend my tube to work with the headers. EGR bung on header was not in perfect location.
@@DrivingIntelligence thank you... I will note that flange .. as for the EGR.. I am contemplating on deleting it... If I go with this header..
I was told EGR bung placement is better on the 2000-2005 excursion headers... Yeah
..those things cost over $700...
I can't wait for your next I take manifold video... I have some questions to ask you
My 2010 is the same can I do the same it’s a 5.4?
Great video and very informative.
Thank you sir!
Those studs break because they're subpar metal and not the correct strength for their prestretch. I have a buddy who pointed it out to his lead engineer at Ford every week for like 2 years. Ford said they didn't care
Good info, they are super cheap. PIA
Do these headers fit on 2004 expedition 4.6? I been looking for headers for mine and most headers say up to 2003 but 2004 expo has same motor I believe
Do you know if these headers only for the 2v 4.6 ?
The only work on the 5.4, but these headers work on the 4.6: amzn.to/3UnFLhZ
Great video you just convinced me not to do this to my own vehicle. -) when my stock exhaust broke on the passenger side I decided then yes to replace it with a stock exhaust manifold. I figured if my driver side was to go then I would switch to shorty headers. It really looks too much of a pain in the butt to try. For now if I ever need to pull or lift my engine out that's when I will make the decision.
Really good video I'm glad you took the time to make it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience doing this.
You're very welcome! Glad it helped. Not sure I will ever do shorties again either! ;)
Great video..I like how you mention do certain things while their accessible cause who wants to get into those boots ever again. I got a 03 f150 2 legger it's just to go to work and school. I'm not looking for any preforance upgrades per say and would actually very much to have it sound as stock as possible. My question to you is were these pretty quiet or did the add some grunt? Thankyou in advanced God bless! Keep making these vidoes
Thanks for commenting and reaching out. Really does not make your vehicle any louder. Actually sounds better to me. I'm not for loud exhaust either, but I do want the better performance. Stay tuned and share my content!
@@DrivingIntelligence right on will do thankyou
@@michaelreid4302 I'll add with a stock muffler it's no difference in sound except less popping on wind down.
That sounds awesome. 👍
Thank you! It does... please subscribe for more videos!
Shifts crisp. Any Trans mods?
Yes! See my vid series on the 4R70W
ruclips.net/p/PLGNsbVXzRfZM6WpCF862q4DlkyatzFIMz
Nice im looking into some as i just got a 03 F150. Larryet super crew 4×4 had tras redone looking for a lower mile coyote with a super charger now putting new dully rear end any advice
I've not got any experience with that conversion, but there are many 10th Generation Forums that cover your build goals. Check them out on Facebook, or do a Google search. Keep in touch and let me know how it goes.
Will do thanks for the heads up
So these bolt up to the existing exhaust system?
They are supposed to bolt up, and mine generally did, although as I think I showed in the video, I had to pull the exhaust system back to get the passenger side header in.
@@DrivingIntelligence sorry about that I think you did mention that. Thanks for the response.
@@taylorday6814 no worries, thanks for reaching out and stay tuned!
exhaust trails on exhaust manifolds? i have a small tick and wonder if it could be that.
What I referred to by Exhaust trails is that you can see where the exhaust is leaking by dark carbon deposits. I saw a couple on each side of mine.
You can also stick a vacuum hose in the exhaust pipe, set it to blow, and spray all exhaust flanges w soapy water. Then you can chase after all the bubbles. Works mint.
I have a 4.6. You think these will go on any easier?
It's a good question. I've never installed headers on a 4.6. The dimensions between two two engines are roughly the same except for a higher deck height with the 5.4. It's a bit of a project either way, biggest problem being the studs if they are rusted and break, installation of the EGR Tube and having clearance between the stock exhaust and the shorties once they are bolted to the head.
@@DrivingIntelligence thanks for the information! I ask because I'm in the process of replacing the heads. Currently, the heads are back on, timing chain is on, and oil pan. That's it. Wheel wells are already taken out and I will be doing a non pi to pi head/intake swap. Figured with l the upgrades I should improve the exhaust a bit and was worried the stock Manifolds would be too restrictive. Wanted to do shorty headers but was worried about the install being difficult
I can't lie, getting some of those header bolts in will be challenging. But I did it. I like the look, the sound and there was some performance improvement. Let me know how it turns out and what you decide to do.
@@DrivingIntelligence thanks for the info! I think I accidentally deleted my previous comment. I am trying to buy the ones in your video or another that I found on Amazon. They only have one hole though, I assume this is for the EGR. What's the second hole for? If it's for the oxygen sensor, how do you work around that? I'll be getting a tune either way, but I do need to get it on the road first so it needs to pass inspection
The shorties I have an in most cases will only have a threaded EGR hole. The O2 Sensors mound downstream of the shorties. If you use long tube headers, they will have an O2 sensor built into the collector. Does that answer your question?
How did you get the egr tube to fit. I can’t get the tube bent enough to reconnect it.
I will be honest, it took alot of muscle to get that EGR tube back on. Once you get it on, the heat will allow it to somewhat form to it's new attachments.
Did you put the top or bottom on first?
@@jeremyreese5018 I attached the bottom first, then muscled it onto the top.
@@DrivingIntelligence for posterity sake I will add on my particular truck (4.6, 2WD) once I loosened the top, it went right back on. Maybe a little flex to it.
Any noticeable difference in fuel economy?
Not really, although I have not checked via my fuel mileage loop. I had already tuned the engine with a custom tune from 5-Star. This included all of my other mods that improved fuel economy. Check out my video on improving 10th Gen Fuel Economy - ruclips.net/video/uCerPykH4pA/видео.html
Whay gauges were u using a rangers?
Hi, I am using a Navigator Gauge Cluster - ruclips.net/video/g1R2fNd-dmE/видео.html please subscribe!
Do the manifold bolts when it’s still warm
Hi Bobby, don’t understand your question. Can you try again? Thanks for viewing
@@DrivingIntelligence He meant; undo the exhaust bolts while they're still warm. They will usually come out without snapping.
is you truck the 4.6 or 5.4 ?
5.4
@@DrivingIntelligence yeah, I've noticed the mom6i saw that transfer case...well I was asking because I own a 01 f150 with the 4.6...luckily it has the aluminum intake and I was looking for a set of headders for it. And till now I have no luck finding some.
@@PBWillyWonka Good morning Mr. Wonka, check out Summit. I just went on their site and see shorties for the 4.6. I believe the head configuration is the same at the 5.4, not sure. Don't take my word for it, but as I noted, there are shorties on Summit for your engine and year. Check them out. And please subscribe!
@@PBWillyWonka
BBK 3515 1-5/8" Shorty Tuned Length Performance Exhaust Headers for Ford F Series F150 And Expedition 4.6L - Chrome Finish