Black & Decker 36V Cordless Lawnmower Battery Cell Replacement (CM1936, SPCM1936)
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- If you have a Black & Decker CM1936 or SPCM1936 cordless mower that uses a 36V sealed lead-acid battery pack, this video is for you. When the battery chargers give you the fast blinking red light of death, or if you can only mow for a fraction of the time you used to, your battery is probably shot. A new battery pack will cost you over $150, but the individual cells within can be had for less than $100. In this video I show you how to refurbish your battery with all new cells and make it as good as new.
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Love my "old" lawnmower which had the battery pack replaced already back in 2012. Called round to Black and Decker repair shops and B&D direct but no one would fix as they no longer back this model. Found this video, bought a 3-pack from Mighty Max Batteries for $79.99 (price seems to have gone up a little) and did the battery swap out with your video as a guide and no need to cut the plastic. Bob's your uncle and she's as good as new. These old machine's will run forever if they are given a little TLC and we as consumers are not swayed into believing into out with the old and in with the new!
For anyone who is replacing the batteries of the non-circuit battery (the green one on the right that he shows in the video, but doesn't actually open at 0:13 ). I just did this replacement today and can say that it's not the same as the battery with the circuit. Yes, they have a ton of similarities, but here are the key differences. The batteries used in the non-circuit are significantly smaller and were slightly different specs (12V 10A/H), and therefore are configured differently in the container. The batteries all lay right next to each other and the terminals are in very close proximity. The fact that they are configured differently in the container means that the wiring is significantly shorter. So if you purchase the oversized block batteries as he did in the video or like I did (Mighty Max 12V 12A/H), you will run into a few problems. 1) The wires won't stretch so you'll need to replace them. 2) You'll need to cut significantly more plastic than the video shows. 3) If you buy these batteries on Amazon, you can't return them because they are hazardous materials. That being said, if you have no problem replacing wiring you'll be fine. But my guess is you're probably not watching a how-to video if you're that advanced.
My recommendation for any general DIY'er that wants to get the non-circuit battery completed quickly. Spend your time trying to locate the batteries that have the exact same dimensions as the ones in your current container. Open up your lawn mower battery container, and take pictures of the configuration of the batteries. Then remove them and measure them. Otherwise, you'll be shopping for wiring and connections and asking others for help like myself. Unfortunately, I took this video at face value and paid the price. I bought the batteries that were being heavily discussed in the comments and thought I'd move them around like Phillip in the video. But once I realized my cables were way shorter than the ones in the video and I couldn't return the oversized batteries, I knew I was up shit creek. It's 100% my own fault, and I'm trying to prevent anyone from making the same mistake. Great video by Phillip btw.
Thank you for the heads up! I was just researching where I could replace the same RB3610 (green label battery w/o charging indicator) as mine has begun to fail. Shame Black & Decker stopped supporting their own product, but not surprising to say the least. So glad I read your comment before clicking Buy on Amazon for the 12V 12Ah batteries. I will open mine and examine to make sure I will actually need 12V 10Ah ones. Thanks again!
Strange, when I opened mine up it was indeed 12v 12ah batteries. Not sure why yours had 12v 10ah ones then. Mystery?
happend to me also uggh
@@martymcflie3211 The new batteries I received were close enough in size that I did not have to cut away any of the container's plastic either. They work great, too, I was finally able to reclaim the jungle outside like new!
FYI, the comment from *mambooha* says:
For those with the older style Black & Decker model (green 36V) Item # SLA-12V12-F2-X3 from BatteryMart fits perfectly. No cutting needed, simply unplug the old and plug in the new.
---The MightyMax ML15-12 is an exact drop-in replacement for the original battery.
No size modification is needed.
---Before you remove the old batteries from the housing, you should note how the wires are dressed and routed.
If you look carefully, there are notches or slots in the housing to hold the wires in place.
If you follow the original wire routing, and use the notches, there will be no risk of the wires getting pinched in the housing during reassembly, and it will hold the wires securely so they will not vibrate during operation.
---I used T-rex extreme mounting tape where the original batteries were taped together, because it is one of the strongest (1lb per square inch), sticks to ABS, and is good for -40 to 200 degrees F.
Thanks for the excellent info. 👍
thank you. i have bought those batteries and my mower is like new again! exact fitment too
Can the 15 amp hour version work as well?
Ordered my batteries from Amazon and had them in 2 days. The rebuild was easy and didn’t have to cut any plastic. It was a tight fit and had to fiddle some to get the top back on! Make sure not to pinch any wires when putting the case back together!
This was a fantastic video and we are happy you made it. Black and Decker no longer supplies the entire Unit anyway, kind of being like Apple. Without this video we would have to upgrade to the 40 volt model which would have set us back over $300. Thanks to you we have a rebuilt mower back for less than $100. I would advise amateurs like ourselves to place electrical tape on any "open green and white wires," as they can touch when you are reconnecting the harness. Thanks again!
Videos like these highlight what’s great about RUclips.
I can’t begin to tell how long i’ve searched for this battery unit never even thinking I would have to take it apart and buy 3 batteries! Thank you for going off script lol
I can’t thank you enough for this video. I’m a disabled veteran, rough times…even b and d customer service was a complete fail and not at all helpful. Got my batteries fast and they fit perfectly, so no cutting anything. It started right up but will see how it actually works. 😀
Thanks for this video! It made the battery replacement a breeze. I also bought the Mighty Max batteries ($69 for a set of three, with shipping). Your utility-knife modification to the top cover (6 minutes into the video) allowed those slightly larger batteries to fit in the case like a glove. Also of note, the Mighty Max batteries have the same terminal type as the original batteries, so no terminal adapters are needed.
Thanks. Where did you buy the Mighty Max batteries? 🙂
I got my batteries from Mighty Max too and my batteries fit in with no modifications needed.
Thanks for this video. You made it look easy - and it was!! My replacement batteries were $50 each and fortunately the same size. Literally took 5 minutes to take apart, replace and re-assemble.
Glad I came across this video. Excellent work and easy to follow! I had to trim more of the plastic "walls" on the top to get the MightyMax batteries to fit, but they did. $70 later and I have a new mower! Thanks!
Thank you for this very useful video! I just ordered the 15 AH version of those Mighty Max batteries from Amazon as a 3 pack for $99. I want to point out that per Mighty Max specs, the dimensions of both the 12 AH and the 15 AH are exactly the same! So I went for the longer run-time batteries.
ALSO: for either battery, they list the depth in the main description area as 3.98" for the ML15-12, and 4.00" for the ML12-12, which almost kept me from buying, but if you look at their Spec Sheet in the left panel it reveals that those dimensions are the Total Depth (which includes the terminals) - the actual depth of the CASE is 3.74".
greetings so the 15AH worked no problem didnt have to do anything special?
Thanks a lot for your help. I followed the steps you presented and I was able to fix my lawnmower battery in less than 30 minutes. The bonus was that the batteries I ordered did fit exactly without having to remove plastic.
Can you give the info of the batteries and where you purchase? Thanks
Terrific video. As with previous comment this saved me from buying a new mower. My skills are with spreadsheets. Your video made it easy for a klutz like me!. Especially liked the way you trimmed the plastic to accommodate the larger replacement batteries.
the green top batteries are smaller and the item #is bp10-12t2 on amazon
thanks! this is the exact info we needed for our green top battery
I just changed out the batteries of my Black & Decker 36V Cordless Lawnmower Battery, and have 3 observations: there's also a 14AHr battery alternative for a little more money that I found after I ordered my 12 AHr replacements--it's worth a look. Also, to avid confusion, as I was removing the connecting wires, I put heat-shrink red tubes on the wires that connected to the red side of the batteries, because most of them had no identification-makes it a lot easier (and safer) to rewire them. Finally, despite buying a trio of batteries that said they were "replacement for Long battery", and looked to be identical in size (but apparently weren't), I couldn't close the cover because the batteries couldn't be reseated inside their plastic guides in the top--so I filed and/or cut off every one of the tiny bumps placed inside the retaining layout in the top to more tightly secure them, and after much effort was finally able to close it up with no gaps. BTW-this was the 2nd time I've changed out some of the batteries in my two Black & Decker 36V Cordless Lawnmower Battery. The first time I had no problems with either battery. Plus a word to the wise--screw in the short screws for the handles in the cover LAST--they do a poor job of pulling the cover tight because they are short, and you can easily cause them to strip the plastic threads in the cover. And one more thing: all 3 of the batteries I replaced were in excellent physical condition, and showing more that 12 volts, but yet both 36V battery units had a very short run time (especially when compared to when they were new). Fortunately, since I've got lots of things that use 12V batteries, I bought a Cen-Tech 'Digital Battery Analyzer', that not only tests voltage (of course), but also does an internal resistance check (which shows how much deterioration has occurred chemically inside the battery) and a CCA test. My testing showed very high internal resistance (not good), and a CCA of only about 25% of what the new ones had, consistent with a very high internal resistance on 3 of my 6 12V batteries. Without such a tool (which isn't all that expensive), there's be no fast and easy way to see which batteries are actually bad. In this instance, it was 2 bad batteries in one unit, and 1 in the other, so I took the good one and put it in with the other with 2 good batteries, and replaced all 3 in the other. Without the analyzer, I'd probably have replaced all 6.
@@elegant6066 The B&D 36V charger has a connector that is designed specifically for the mower's battery pack. 3 24V batteries might be charged if they were in parallel (the battery pack puts them in series, so it's 3 x 12V=36V), and you cut off the connector and found a way to connect it to the batteries. I don't think the slow, trickle charge of 36V would overcharge or burn out a 24V batter PROVIDED you paid close attention, since the lower voltage would never stop the charging and power would be continuously pumped into the 24V batteries, and eventually there's likely be a problem. I have no idea what you can do with these 24V batteries & the B&D battery pack or mower. You're going to have to provide more detail if I'm to help. I've got lots of experience with all kinds of rechargeable batteries, and know all too well how easy it is to screw them up if you're not careful.
@@elegant6066 No problem.
@@elegant6066 The change from red to green definitely means the charging is done. More sophisticated chargers stop pumping energy into the battery when the light is green. The chargers for the B&D mower's batteries I have would appear to not overcharge--I leave the 36V B&D chargers plugged into the batteries (I have 2) for weeks between uses, and everything's fine. I don't know what charger you're using, or what battery pack you're using. More detail would be helpful. BTW-how long did it take for your battery unit to die? They generally don't last for more than 3 years, but my first set lasted almost 4 years. But the 12V 12ahr batteries can die anywhere from months to years after they're first installed. I have literally about 50 12V batteries for my UPS's around my home, and their performance is all over the map. It also depends on how much you discharge them, since they really aren't designed to be fully discharged too often.
@@elegant6066 Don't tell me you're the Little Old Lady from Pasadena? Sorry, I couldn't resist. Anyway, the fact that you don't have a Torx wrench makes me concerned that you might not have the experience to do a full battery swap out (since even identical batteries aren't necessarily the same physical size--I just went through that myself). On the other hand, the fact that you knew what a Torx wrench was gives me a more positive feeling. What amp hour ratings are the current batteries? Amazon and eBay are good places to find replacements. You also need to match either the F1 or F2 plug ends, otherwise it can be a real pain trying to reconnect. Also, take pictures before disassembling, and use some self adhesive labels or tape that you can write on to leave a trail as to how to reconnect the wires. I'm pretty good at this, yet it's still easy to screw up since there's nothing to prevent a misconnection, short of the big spark or melted wire that tells you you've done something wrong (or no power). If I can be of further help, let me know. BTW-10ahr is pretty tiny. Each of the 3 batteries in my packs are either 12ahr or 14ahr, for a total of either 36 or 42ahr. Any yet my not terribly large property uses 4 battery charges to get the full job done (although I swap out when it gets a bit slow). So 10ahr would be less than 1/3rd of what I need 4 of. Either it's a tiny mower, or you can't have a large lot.
@@elegant6066 Is this (ruclips.net/video/bXK7Kron0BM/видео.html) the toy you're using to cut your lawn with? It looks like something a little kid is given to follow after his father while he's actually cutting the lawn. Here's something I stumbled across about its batteries: ruclips.net/video/ktS6XkSLu7Q/видео.html . BTW-if you're of the mind to follow the hack, I suggest you try to find something for Ridgid 18V batteries (available generally only from HomeDepot). I use these Ridgid batteries exclusively for my 18V tools and accessories (and even have adapters to convert them to Ryobi), because they have the unique characteristic of being GUARANTEED FOR LIFE (and due to a recent policy change, that now also applies to batteries you buy outside of their tool combos). I live in sunny (and wet) So. FL, (south of Miami) where there's so much rain during the rainy (or even the dry) season that your mover wouldn't be able to do the little side strip I have along the road outside my wall, on a single charge. It's like 1/10th the mow-able area I have. But I guess in dry CA, with little rain and generally small grassy areas, you've hardly got any grass to mow.
Thanks for the video. I decided to get batteries from Amazon that closely matched the size of the long batteries. They fit perfectly no problem. Mighty max like others have mentioned. Went pretty smoothly.
Thanks. Needed your help 3 years after you made the video.
What does it mean if the red light is blinking while I charge it?
This was a great video, thank you. I replaced my previous batteries which were 3 10 Ah batteries with 3 15 Ah batteries. I only had to make one cable to do it, but now my mower lasts a lot longer and runs like the first day I bought it. At first I thought it wouldn't work because the 3 10 Ah batteries had an insert, but I just had to remove that insert and the new batteries fit as shown in this video. I purchased three Mighty Max Battery ML15-12 - 12 Volt 15 AH batteries from Amazon. I didn't have to do any modifications to my housing.
My own Black and Decker 36v battery is beginning to fail after 8 years of regular use. Might try this economical solution instead of springing $300 + for a new mower. Thanks for this really informative video. Some of the comments below seem to disagree on which 12v batteries to use for best fitting, so I will have to research that further.
Thank God I found this video. I live my lawnmower and I couldn't find a replacement now I can fix it 😃😃😃
Thank you for posting this, as well as your fitting work-arounds.
Ordering my batteries. Thanks for clear and detailed tutorial. 👍
Awesome video. I suck at projects like this but managed to accomplish this today. I luckily didn't ha e the height problem so it was easier than your change was.
This was spot on and incredibly helpful. Thank you so very much.
I did exactly as you said. I bought the same batteries and it works great! Thanks for the video!
I've found it easier to load them into the top first and then just slide the bottom over the batteries. Note that some batteries SLA or Lithium have the terminals a little closer to the end of the battery so on those you will need to make small notches for the terminals to allow the battery to slip all the way into the cover which is one reason I prefer to load them into the cover first since its easier to see if the terminals cause interference. I've got the self propelled 1936 and it has the battery with the test circuit.
This year the mower is 10 years old now so I bit the bullet and went with 12 Volt/12 Ah LIFEPO4 batteries from TCBWorth and they slid right in with the cover notched for the terminals. Hint: Use box tape to hold the ends of the batteries tightly together to make re-assembly easier with one strip across the ends of the two side by side and one strip to hold the third battery in the T-Shaped arrangement close to the other two.
I went with a new 10 Amp 36 Volt (really 43.8 Volts) LIFEPO4 charger and since the original charge port on the B&D pack doesn't support 10 Amp charging and has circuitry for the SLA batteries in it I put a 50 Amp Anderson Connector on the charger and use the packs main power connector for charging. That way since I haven't modified the SLA Battery Charging Circuit it will be easy to go back to SLA if need be.
End results is a pack that charges in a little over an hour and has double the runtime of the SLA. Lithium has dropped in price and you can now get the 12 Volt 12 Ah LIFEPO4 batteries for around $30 to $36 each. The 10 Amp LIFEPO4 charger goes for about $40. Still cheaper than a new name brand Lithium powered self propelled mower which will cost you $500 or more.
Things to watch out for are that the LIFEPO4 batteries have a built in BMS that supports 3 or more batteries in series, has over/under voltage protection, high/low temperature protection and is rated for 10 or more amps charging and supports a Maximum Continuous Discharge Current of at least 15 Amps. Blades are another thing to watch out for as B&D now charges almost $80 for the formerly $10 blades however shop around and you'll find places like USA Mower have a compatible blade that comes in a twin pack for around $31 for the two mulching blades so $15.50 each which is quite a bit more reasonable.
Best!
Thanks muchly! Saved me from buying a new mower!
Thanks - helped me fix my old BnD mower today !
11/12/23-thanks for a terrific and easy to follow video. Wish I had found it earlier as I went to a batteries plus outlet and they installed batteries ($173 in WA state) haven’t tried it as yet- however the charge windows remain unchanged. One is at full one at 1/2 , and last at 1/4. Why don’t they register as full. PS been on charger overnight? Thanks again - terrific video. Tones.😊😊
My favorite line: for the flimsy and cheesy lid... "luckily in this case they use cheap materials "
For those with the older style Black & Decker model (green 36V ) Item #: SLA-12V12-F2-X3 from BatteryMart fits perfectly. No cutting needed, simply unplug the old and plug in the new.
Very helpful. Definitely got me started in the right direction.
So I bought the new batteries put it back together, appears to be charging but only lasts for a few minutes when running. Tested the old batteries and they are all holding a charge. Wondering when my next go to might be. Thanks for making things easy.
When the mower dies after a few minutes, does the battery still say it's charged, or is completely dead? One way to test it if you don't have the battery with the power meter is to let the mower sit and cool down for a while and see if it starts back up with the same battery. If the battery is still charged, you may have a motor or other component going into thermal protection. If it's completely draining the battery in a few minutes, I have no idea. That's a lot of current in a short period of time to be going anywhere! Another thing to check is if there is a motor/blade blockage. That could cause it to overheat and/or draw too much power. Good luck!
Very nice video. I wish I had bought a second case. If you have an old B&D lawnmower like this, please sell the empty cases on ebay or something. Just the case and wiring.
Awesome, thanks very much!!
October 2022
I have the mower battery with the orange label (model# RB3612).
I bought the same batteries (3-pack Mighty Max ML12-12).
The new batteries fit perfectly, so I did not modify the case. What's up with that?
The Mighty Max (ML12-12) battery dimensions are:
WxHxD = 6" x 3¾" x 3⅞" (150 mm x 94.5 mm x 98.5 mm)
WxHxD = 5.91" x 3.72" x 3.88" (as measured with caliper)
*The width is the "front" (left-right), height is bottom-top, depth is front-back.
*The height measurement excludes the terminals on top.
The original battery (Kung Long WP12-12) dimensions are:
WxHxD = 6" x 3⅝" x 3⅞" (152 mm x 92.5 mm x 97.5 mm)
The original battery is slightly wider and deeper, but the replacement is slightly taller.
Thank you for this valuable information.
I have a safety question for anyone knowledgeable: I noticed these 12v batteries all say "Do not charge in a sealed container". Doesn't this present a problem when placing three of them in a sealed battery case like this and using the mower plug in charger outside the case? This refurbishing idea is terrific and I want to try it, but I'm concerned about safety. Any replies appreciated, thanks!
EDIT TO ADD: After thinking about this a bit more, I wonder if it would be a good idea to drill a small pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot on the mower battery case? Maybe some place to drill upward so no water leaks inside? The purpose would be to let any gas emissions breathe out from the 12v batteries inside?
At 1:56, note that the original batteries say: *Do not charge in a gas-tight container.* The battery case is designed to hold three charging batteries, therefore I think the ventilation is already sufficient; additional ventilation is _not_ needed.
Great! However, cannot figure out how to remove the battery from the actual mower...
"I'll get back to you within several months.."
Nice.
Thanks for the video. I went with new Duracell batteries. Having the same issue with the case not closing due to a slightly different battery size. The inside of the casing on the model I have (the orange one) looks a little bit different than yours, so I'm not sure exactly which plastic piece is preventing the case from closing completely. But it closes enough so that the mower works.
Any chance you can talk about a throttle problem for the SPCM1936. ONLY HAVE ONE SPEED RABBIT FAST
Wish you could tell me which models you have there…for the SPCM1936 or 1836…
What’s the best way to store the battery after the rebuild.. plugged in while being stored or plug it in and charge it prior to use?
I don’t know anything about this specific charger. You would need to look at the specs of the charger and find out how it does the charge. Is it a real dumb charger that doesn’t multi-stage charge? as-in switch to a float charge? My guess is that it isn’t a great charger, but you would need to check. If it doesn’t float charge, I would charge it to 100% and then disconnect it. Those AGM batteries have a low discharge rate so it would likely be fine to just pull out and use after weeks of sitting.
I came here because I saw one of these mowers for sale and was half interested. However, it is likely the batteries need replacement. Unfortunately, these lead acid batteries do not like to be discharged past 50% or they live a shorter life. That means you realistically need to cut the available AH in half, probably not a good combo on a lawn mower with a small batt to begin with. If you want these to last at all, I wouldn’t run them down a lot. They start dropping below 50%, I’d stop and charge them.
I believe the battery charger is dumb, but low amperage. I agree with William that they should be charged fully, unplugged, and stored that way. I'd maybe plug them in overnight every month or two. Also keep them in a warm-ish space, like a garage or basement.
Thank you so much!
Do you know if any generic chargers will work on this battery? Or do you need the OEM Black & Decker charger? My charger also broke and I don't wanna spend the money to fix my battery if I can't charge it.
I have another dilemma, where the unit with inserted safety key was melted and stuck (looks like it was overheating issue). Anybody knows how to replace the unit?
Can I use this alternative method to replace my RB3610 battery? Thank you.
Thx for the video. I followed all the steps and this didn't work for me. I suspect b/c there was some water inside and corrosion on the connectors. Is it possible for replace the wires/connectors?
Yes, the wires and connectors should all be standard stuff. I'm not sure of the specs, since mine are back together and in use, but just match up the same gauge wire and style of connectors. You will need wire cutters/strippers and a terminal crimper, but that should be all.
Saved my butt ! Thanks so much for doing this video.
Thanks for the video. Replace the batteries on my B/D CM1936 with new ones but mover won't go to full power it runs very slow. Any thoughts? Appreciate it.
Old post but answering for others. Probably one of your batteries is bad. Test each one separately.
THANK! Got my 3 batteries and replaced no problem with your help. I have another issue and cannot find a fix. The self propel on my BD has an adjustment between turtle and rabbit. My problem is that even on turtle I am in a very fast walk, almost breaking into a trot. If I had a football field to work, this would be awesome. For working in our yard, with lots of trees and things to work around, it is way too fast. Is there a fix? Thanks for consideration on answering this, anyone reading or yourself.
Not that I know of. Anything fancy would probably require pulling the electronic brain circuit and modifying it. I’ve never looked at mine, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s potted, aka: encased in epoxy goo and impossible to service or modify. The easiest option would be to make the drive wheels smaller, but then you’d mess up your available range of grass length. You might just be stuck with what you have, unless anyone else has attempted anything.
@@PhillipsHomeRepair Today I took the speed control switch off, opened it up, and found I could turn the regulator dial down about a 1/4 turn, after disengaging the two gears. Seems like it changed very little. It might be going a wee bit slower but still quick for this 60 something fella!! I tested the mower with the wheels off the ground and modulated between low and high speed. Really doesn't seem to be much difference Did the same while walking with it and speed difference is negligible. You might be right...I'm stuck with it. : D Thanks for your reply. I'll let you know if I ever figure anything out.
How many minutes of runtime are you getting with the rebuilt battery pack?
There are a lot of variables, like grass length, blade sharpness, and using the self-propel feature, but usually a half-hour-ish?
Just get long screws and screw top into batteries, should hold 🤔
Are these lithium batteries?
Nada. Lead acid.
Love the irony of saying American freedom units being completly missed here.
Canadian viewers: No need for modifications of the battery housing for me. I ordered 12 Volt 12 Amp Hour batteries from UPS Battery Center in the GTA. TLV12120 was the product code. Within millimeters of the size of the original batteries and my battery is showing 3 lights now. I'll let you know how the mower runs in a future comment.
Got to use it this week. No issues. Worked great. Battery was only down by one of the three indicator lights when I was done...and it would have been down by two lights before. Charged up fine. Ready to use again. And, ordering the batteries that I did from UPS Battery Center meant I didn't need to modify the plastic housing. They are almost exactly the same size as the original batteries. TLV12120. Google it so you get the most up to date info from UPS Battery Center.
How do I start my B&D battery powered mower?
Run real fast with it
With the key in, pull the bail to the handle and hold it there, press the button on the side, in that order.
@@conjectural_technologies No, push the button, then squeeze the handle
@@cherylsiegelman7134 Cheryl's right!
Thanks for the very informative video. Now I can still use my plug in mower........... But American Freedom Units? Really? The U.S. military uses metric measurements extensively to ensure interoperability with allied forces, particularly NATO. Our Ground forces have measured distances in "klicks -kilometers. Heavy weapon caliber is measured in millimeters. The world is mostly metric. It's not that difficult. BTW I still prefer imperial measurements and weights.
Chow man
That was a joke. I actually gave the measurements in "bald eagles per school shooting" at first, but I cut it out of the video because I didn't want to start a pointless controversy over a joke. My life runs on inappropriate, self deprecating jokes, but I sometimes dial it down for the general public.
I'm pretty unit-fluid, depending on what I'm doing. Obviously, when I'm doing construction, everything in the US is imperial. 4x8 drywall, 8' lumber, 16" centers, etc. For machining, I usually stick with thousandths of an inch, since all of my antique measuring tools and shop equipment uses that. With electronics, I generally use metric, as trace widths and vias are more internationally standardized. In this case, my metric tape measure just wasn't handy. Luckily, I've gotten pretty good at converting on the fly. But American anger toward the metric system is hilarious to me.
while you are correct we do use metric and that's why i prefer it in my daily life, but you know what he meant. Freedom units. love it.
@@PhillipsHomeRepair I loved the reference! Funny stuff.
I have spare 36v battery if anyone wants to purchase
Thank you for much for this video! The circuit board on my mower that shows the battery strength seems to be dead, so I was a tad worried until I plugged the batteries back into the mower. I also found ruclips.net/video/YtpnhABs54A/видео.html useful because at 2:10 he shows you where that stupid black pin that falls out belongs. 👍