A-1 very nice tech video, I witnessed a similar problem a few months ago on an customers car. He burnt it up within a week trying to go from light to light lunching hard not cool and not going anywere. His set up 04 gto, ls2 camed, valve springs, pushrods,1-7/8 headers, 3inch with y all the way out no cats, 6 speed, 4.10 posi, hp tuned, no driver mod. He lost till it exploded on him then called me all upset. I wournd him that it may a cure if he didn't put a few hundred stop and normally taking off miles on it. Keep the tech videos going to the masses of gear heads in need to know what's happening to there set up they invest thousands into.
Love you’re work Jay!. Definitely my favourite Chanel to come scope out. Thank you!. I had no idea about the clutch bedding in process and failed pretty fast. 🤘🏻🤘🏻
Seems to me that if a friction disk isn't leveled off from the manufacturer then it was manufactured correctly. Would this not wear the flywheel unevenly if only a tiny part of the friction disk contacts the flywheel for the first couple hundred of miles or so?
If you slip the hell out of it, then yes you can wear a flywheel unevenly, but that's assuming you have a very aggressive clutch. If it's an organic clutch you might be able to reuse the flywheel without machining it.
Kris Demers The friction material of a clutch is softer than the metal flywheel. The wear you put on the flywheel with proper clutch break in would be minimum.
Hey Jay I am rebuilding my engine 3rz-fe for 2001 toyota tacoma. What kind of internals do i need so my engine can be very reliable and last a long time. What do you think stock internals or upgrade to high performance parts. Will be daily driver. But the reason it broke in the first place is I was on the freeway top speed at highest rev
Are you familiar with South Bend's Stage 3 Endurance, Jay? They said 500-700 miles of casual driving, which I was very meticulous about. I stayed in vacuum the whole time (it's a turbo car and I monitor boost level). After 700 miles I started getting into boost a little. As of now I'm at 1000 miles and the clutch slips in 4th and higher gears under wide-open throttle. I'm pretty frustrated because this clutch has a sterling reputation with my platform (Mazdaspeed 3), and it's conservatively rated at 500ft/lbs. I'm only at 380wtq, so it should be way more than I need. Argh!
What if you don't live in or near a city? I live in the country and other than the road from my house to the hwy, it's all just hwy driving to work or really anywhere I drive to.
I actually wouldn't be surprised if they just accept that the way they operate these cars they will have to constantly replace the clutch and rebuild things.
The pads aren't meant to see the conditions of a lathe. They're designed to see the conditions of a machined, metal surface. Trying to mill the clutch is likely to damage and completely ruin the friction material, causing it to chip or worse. It it was as easy as milling the clutch, everyone would do it and break-in periods wouldn't be a thing.
So I have an fx300 In my 2018 Civic Si. It’s been about 1200 miles. Most city. This has happened twice so far. I had it installed about a month ago or a little over. When I’m in traffic sometimes you have to ride the clutch just a bit to get the car moving forward. After doing that a for about 5 minutes the catch is later and later and I know it’s over heating. And I’m scared shit now lol. I haven’t adjusted the clutch pedal and I’ve been told that could be it? But that doesn’t sound right. I haven’t beaten on it yet, at most 70 percent throttle and I can see that on my Ktuner V2. I’ve had standard my whole life I’m 33 and been driving since I was 16 on a standard. I’ve had after market stage 3 clutches. It has not slipped at any other time. But since I live in s city this is extremely important lol. Any ideas? Should I give it more time to break in? Why is this happening? Like I said I was told 500 break in by clutch masters and I’m at around 1200-1400 miles. I don’t race by the way haha. I don’t beat the car up. I’m honestly at a loss as to why this is happening?
PayItForward probably your clutch delay valve in your master cylinder. As the car head soaks it changes the rate the brake fluid goes through the delay valve. Remove it and you’ll have consistent clutch pedal engagement. That’s what I did on my SI. I could not stand driving it with it installed. Depending on how slow or fast you release the pedal the clutch engagement is all over the place with the valve in place.
d1zguy in a 10th gen? The clutch ended up breaking in fine and now it’s strong as fuck we adjusted the pedal and it’s so much better than stock but still have chatter.
I just got an fx300 in my srt4. Got about 400 miles on it. Maybe 30 to 50 miles city, the rest highway. Since I first engaged the clutch it was chattering and vibrating. Mainly whenever you slip the clutch during takeoff. So I've been avoiding slipping by hitting the engagement point and then giving gas and it's not as bad if I do it right, but it usually results in a semi launch. I'm getting used to it but it sucks for passengers. My question is after your clutch broke in were you able to slip it similar to an oem style clutch or am I forced to launch on every stop and go? Also did the chatter/vibration go away or diminish at all? Thanks.
I have a stage action clutch on a rsx with 350 mile now and i tried to punch it and it slipped should i give it more time to break in ?or dou think its already f*cked up???
how come ive seen a lot of resources saying 250 to break point, 500, 750 o.O anyone have a reasonable answer. Dying to beat on my car lol exedy stage 2 on my Type S :D
I followed specs guidelines of 500 miles. Spec stage 3 6 puck clutch, aluminum flywheel, tick master cylinder and has been over 2 years daily driven. NO ISSUES...
***** depends on what brand. I run spec and honestly will always just my personal preference. They haven't steered me wrong. The break in sucks from stage 3 up because of the bite the clutch material has and all but, it definitely gets easier. People get mad and scares right away because they think it drives like a$$ after a performance clutch install but, they don't wait the entire break in period or install correctly. I recommend a good brand, flywheel, slave and master if performance car, and good arp hardware.
shawn klesel Yeah, your clutch will not seat properly unless it's all the break in miles are put on city driving with alot of stop and go. The clutch needs to in gage and disengage as much as possible.
+marine0331inf i'm not an expert, but in the highway you do more miles without shifting or shifting less than in normal city driving, so i think it won't hurt but you'll have to drive more than the usual brake in distance to achieve the same goal,
Its all about pressure per square inch. The less surface area you have, the more pressure or clamping force you get out of it. It seems counter intuitive, but more surface area doesn't always mean more grip. Often stage 5 clutches only have 4 pucks. It will feel a lot less smooth than a street clutch because the force is distributed less evenly. Im sure someone can explain this a little better than me but if you have any other questions I can help you out hopefully
think of someone standing on u, then if they stand on u wearing high heels, same weight but the heels will have more pressure due to smaller area, same as smaller pucks, hope thats clear as mud now :)
There are muscle car forums full of guys who don't understand this and are fighting dealers for warranty work now. Be nice if they put a removable sticker on the dash of new 600hp+ cars with the breakin procedure for this exact reason.
I'm doomed.. I just replaced my plow trucks clutch and it's too late to break it in. I guess I'll just keep the RPM as low as I can. It has to push a huge amount of weight (snow + plow it's self). This will be interesting.. Anyone ever been in this situation? Ever break in a clutch while in 4wd? lol
Friends hello! I'm from Russia and I do not know much about the language. Explain just what the author is talking about. Or give the text of his speech. Thank you.
Руслан Смольянинов He's explaining that when you replace the clutch in your vehicle you should drive it very easy for a break in procedure instead of driving it very hard right away. Your clutch will last longer that way.
Говорит не топить сразу, потому что поверхность контакта со стороны накладок имеет перепады\неровности и должна притереться, иначе в работе будет пятно малой площади, которое перегреется. Наверное слегка неактуально уже)
![Should You Reuse a Clutch, Pressure Plate and Flywheel? [DIY Resurfacing Tips]](/img/1.gif)
A-1 very nice tech video, I witnessed a similar problem a few months ago on an customers car. He burnt it up within a week trying to go from light to light lunching hard not cool and not going anywere. His set up 04 gto, ls2 camed, valve springs, pushrods,1-7/8 headers, 3inch with y all the way out no cats, 6 speed, 4.10 posi, hp tuned, no driver mod. He lost till it exploded on him then called me all upset. I wournd him that it may a cure if he didn't put a few hundred stop and normally taking off miles on it. Keep the tech videos going to the masses of gear heads in need to know what's happening to there set up they invest thousands into.
Love you’re work Jay!. Definitely my favourite Chanel to come scope out. Thank you!. I had no idea about the clutch bedding in process and failed pretty fast. 🤘🏻🤘🏻
All this tip are actually helpful thank a lot
Just completed my break in on an 04 Civic.
Took me a week and a half to finish job
Right on time! i will get my southbend stage 4 next week:)
Thanks!
How did it go? My stage 3 endurance has 1,000 miles on it and it still is slipping under boost.
@@numinous4789 then you didnt brake it in enough. if its slipping, your clutch is toast. im in the same boat.
Please ask jay about his thoughts on engine break in.
Thanks for keepin it real 😉
Very good info am put it to work next week but How about breaking in a motor?
What about engine break in? What does Jay do? Drive it like you stole it after 100-300 miles?
"pretend that...you are not a maniac"🤣🤣🤣🤣 how long can I keep fooling everyone?
Seems to me that if a friction disk isn't leveled off from the manufacturer then it was manufactured correctly. Would this not wear the flywheel unevenly if only a tiny part of the friction disk contacts the flywheel for the first couple hundred of miles or so?
If you slip the hell out of it, then yes you can wear a flywheel unevenly, but that's assuming you have a very aggressive clutch. If it's an organic clutch you might be able to reuse the flywheel without machining it.
Kris Demers The friction material of a clutch is softer than the metal flywheel. The wear you put on the flywheel with proper clutch break in would be minimum.
very nice video thank you so much
Hey Jay I am rebuilding my engine 3rz-fe for 2001 toyota tacoma. What kind of internals do i need so my engine can be very reliable and last a long time. What do you think stock internals or upgrade to high performance parts. Will be daily driver. But the reason it broke in the first place is I was on the freeway top speed at highest rev
One Question: Before new Clutch Break-in, do we observe small judder in the first gear release?
I really do like these tech tips. Keep them coming Jay.
Are you familiar with South Bend's Stage 3 Endurance, Jay? They said 500-700 miles of casual driving, which I was very meticulous about. I stayed in vacuum the whole time (it's a turbo car and I monitor boost level). After 700 miles I started getting into boost a little. As of now I'm at 1000 miles and the clutch slips in 4th and higher gears under wide-open throttle. I'm pretty frustrated because this clutch has a sterling reputation with my platform (Mazdaspeed 3), and it's conservatively rated at 500ft/lbs. I'm only at 380wtq, so it should be way more than I need. Argh!
What ever happened to the clutch? Did it get better?
Damn.. i got a competition clutch stage 5.... maybe its too much for a b16?
I like these videos.
Thank you
Put an Exedy in my car and drove 100mi on it softly then put a 150 shot on it and its fine
😂😂😂😂😂
What if you don't live in or near a city? I live in the country and other than the road from my house to the hwy, it's all just hwy driving to work or really anywhere I drive to.
drive like your in the city i suppose. stop and go. 500+ miles of it
so how do all this shop cars which only go to the track most are not even street legal break in a clutch ?
Dyno time is my guess.
I actually wouldn't be surprised if they just accept that the way they operate these cars they will have to constantly replace the clutch and rebuild things.
When you install a rebuilt transmission on a 2003 Tahoe 4 x 4 how do you break in the transmission that you have just installed that was rebuilt
Well, that explains the chattering..
why couldnt you chuck that puck disc in a lathe and surface the pads?
The pads aren't meant to see the conditions of a lathe. They're designed to see the conditions of a machined, metal surface. Trying to mill the clutch is likely to damage and completely ruin the friction material, causing it to chip or worse. It it was as easy as milling the clutch, everyone would do it and break-in periods wouldn't be a thing.
So I have an fx300 In my 2018 Civic Si. It’s been about 1200 miles. Most city. This has happened twice so far. I had it installed about a month ago or a little over. When I’m in traffic sometimes you have to ride the clutch just a bit to get the car moving forward. After doing that a for about 5 minutes the catch is later and later and I know it’s over heating. And I’m scared shit now lol. I haven’t adjusted the clutch pedal and I’ve been told that could be it? But that doesn’t sound right. I haven’t beaten on it yet, at most 70 percent throttle and I can see that on my Ktuner V2. I’ve had standard my whole life I’m 33 and been driving since I was 16 on a standard. I’ve had after market stage 3 clutches. It has not slipped at any other time. But since I live in s city this is extremely important lol. Any ideas? Should I give it more time to break in? Why is this happening? Like I said I was told 500 break in by clutch masters and I’m at around 1200-1400 miles. I don’t race by the way haha. I don’t beat the car up. I’m honestly at a loss as to why this is happening?
PayItForward probably your clutch delay valve in your master cylinder. As the car head soaks it changes the rate the brake fluid goes through the delay valve. Remove it and you’ll have consistent clutch pedal engagement. That’s what I did on my SI. I could not stand driving it with it installed. Depending on how slow or fast you release the pedal the clutch engagement is all over the place with the valve in place.
d1zguy in a 10th gen? The clutch ended up breaking in fine and now it’s strong as fuck we adjusted the pedal and it’s so much better than stock but still have chatter.
I just got an fx300 in my srt4. Got about 400 miles on it. Maybe 30 to 50 miles city, the rest highway. Since I first engaged the clutch it was chattering and vibrating. Mainly whenever you slip the clutch during takeoff. So I've been avoiding slipping by hitting the engagement point and then giving gas and it's not as bad if I do it right, but it usually results in a semi launch. I'm getting used to it but it sucks for passengers. My question is after your clutch broke in were you able to slip it similar to an oem style clutch or am I forced to launch on every stop and go? Also did the chatter/vibration go away or diminish at all? Thanks.
Maybe there's a hard brake in method for the clutch too 😏😂
I have a stage action clutch on a rsx with 350 mile now and i tried to punch it and it slipped should i give it more time to break in ?or dou think its already f*cked up???
how come ive seen a lot of resources saying 250 to break point, 500, 750 o.O anyone have a reasonable answer. Dying to beat on my car lol
exedy stage 2 on my Type S :D
DjMoe how many miles did it take for you to brake it in??
How many miles to break in a performance clutch?
I followed specs guidelines of 500 miles. Spec stage 3 6 puck clutch, aluminum flywheel, tick master cylinder and has been over 2 years daily driven. NO ISSUES...
That's pretty long for a stage one. Caution is always better though imo.
So for a stage 2 500 would be good enough? Any good brands you guys recommend.
***** depends on what brand. I run spec and honestly will always just my personal preference. They haven't steered me wrong. The break in sucks from stage 3 up because of the bite the clutch material has and all but, it definitely gets easier. People get mad and scares right away because they think it drives like a$$ after a performance clutch install but, they don't wait the entire break in period or install correctly. I recommend a good brand, flywheel, slave and master if performance car, and good arp hardware.
shawn klesel Yeah, your clutch will not seat properly unless it's all the break in miles are put on city driving with alot of stop and go. The clutch needs to in gage and disengage as much as possible.
What brand is that flywheel?
I normally break mines in at the burnout before the 1320 😎
dont do it. break it in the right way
Best guy
First 100 mile stop and go after that beat the shit out of it that’s my method tested on spec mcloed and Centerforce
so is high way driving ok? I do a lot of it.
+marine0331inf i'm not an expert, but in the highway you do more miles without shifting or shifting less than in normal city driving, so i think it won't hurt but you'll have to drive more than the usual brake in distance to achieve the same goal,
@@PabloDeLafuria highway driving does NOTHING for clutch breakin.
Why does my torque-less civic has chadder?
👍👍
How can I break in my clutch on a track car with no access to a dyno?
Why do puck clutches have so little material on them?
Couldn't they make them so much better by covering the whole thing?
Its all about pressure per square inch. The less surface area you have, the more pressure or clamping force you get out of it. It seems counter intuitive, but more surface area doesn't always mean more grip. Often stage 5 clutches only have 4 pucks. It will feel a lot less smooth than a street clutch because the force is distributed less evenly. Im sure someone can explain this a little better than me but if you have any other questions I can help you out hopefully
think of someone standing on u, then if they stand on u wearing high heels, same weight but the heels will have more pressure due to smaller area, same as smaller pucks, hope thats clear as mud now :)
mr2paddy legend that explained it so well
mr2paddy omg this was such a great analogy.. kinky.. but informative lol
There are muscle car forums full of guys who don't understand this and are fighting dealers for warranty work now. Be nice if they put a removable sticker on the dash of new 600hp+ cars with the breakin procedure for this exact reason.
Who cares about muscle.
I'm doomed.. I just replaced my plow trucks clutch and it's too late to break it in. I guess I'll just keep the RPM as low as I can. It has to push a huge amount of weight (snow + plow it's self). This will be interesting.. Anyone ever been in this situation? Ever break in a clutch while in 4wd? lol
Gamma Light rpms don't matter, it's how much slippig you do.
I wonder how many people watched this and thought oh that's why my clutch started slipping
Love grandma but she need to move over rover, cuz the ladies need some space too.
I've never had luck with them cheep kits even 500mils wear in still manage to kill them
I found out the hard way
how do people not know about clutch and flywheel break in... its the same concept as new breaks and rotors or do people not know about that either....
The same concept as in make a bunch of emergency stops from like 60mph back to back 🤔
Dude, if you break the clutch in the same way as brakes then you've instantly ruined the clutch...
Friends hello! I'm from Russia and I do not know much about the language. Explain just what the author is talking about. Or give the text of his speech. Thank you.
Руслан Смольянинов
He's explaining that when you replace the clutch in your vehicle you should drive it very easy for a break in procedure instead of driving it very hard right away. Your clutch will last longer that way.
Говорит не топить сразу, потому что поверхность контакта со стороны накладок имеет перепады\неровности и должна притереться, иначе в работе будет пятно малой площади, которое перегреется.
Наверное слегка неактуально уже)
2:29 IMPORT BITCHEZ!
***** same concept
.
Who wants to make my mercury sable fast? lol