Robber Bees are older Bees, and changing their mindset , once they've started, can be difficult. If you see cappings in front, like this one, they are in trouble! Moving them like Dave showed is the right thing to do. I would add a step or 2 though. When you put the empty hive back in the original one's spot, add a wet sponge with a maybe a spoonful of sugar on it in the back of the hive. Place a bee escape at the entrance in reverse, so bees can only get in, and not out. Close the whole thing up at dark. The next morning, add a frame with eggs and one with pollen and honey, and leave closed up another day. The bees mindset and chemistry actually change, to ensure the survival of this new hive, and making a new queen. The next day I'd move the box again and open up a small entrance and you should have a new hive started. Now you have taken a large number of robbers out of the yard and changed their motivation. You have a new nuc started, and hopefully have now made Lemonade, from the pile of lemons 2 days before. Don't forget to address the hive that was being robbed, to make sure it still has a queen, and enough bees to survive. Thanx again Barnyardbees for your videos and your time spent to educate!
excellent advice thanks. First time beekeeping, I had a swarm rob my only hive 3 weeks ago, my bad, fed my bees in the open. didnt recognise the sign of robber bees. I tried everything moved hive but made little difference. Bees fought to the death. Now queen and handful of bees struggling after total clean out of stores & now the cold autumn arrival. have starting feeding sugar syrup, closed up hive with 1 bee entrance, is it possible to save the bees or accept the inevitable. i will try anything. even thought to put in an enclosed area indoors/shed to save them.
I just caught a robbing in my first colony, saw a ton more action than usual, closer look I saw hoards of bees going inside and coming out... hardly any with pollen... put an entrance reducer down to about 3/4" x 3/8", and it was gone in twenty mins, all back to normal. 😁🤙
Yes, awesome. I was thinking about moving one of the hives being robbed. But I was hesitant. Now I know I can do it before it gets out of control. Thank you so much
Interesting idea. I thought you’d put a entrance trap. It’s nice to know several methods. Thanks for passing on your knowledge brother. You have helped educate me as I will start this coming spring. TY
David, I admire your bravery with the bees. I'd like to see you put your hands on the bees I have in two of my hives. The girls I think came from Satan! Went in one yesterday and was stung 7 times through my suit no less. All I wanted to do is look in the hive and see how they were doing. Found out they are doing great.
David, after you moved the hive, and then opened the entrance just a little to let the robbers out, did you need to move it again? Those robbers can go tell their hives where the honey pit is now? Thank you for the video, as always, great insight.
I lost two large hives to robbing this week and I only had six to begin with. This was even with entrance reducers. Neighbor allowed commercial beek to put 30 hives right next to his fence --facing my property -- all with jar feeders on top. Unfortunately all his feeders were empty. We have palmetto starting to bloom now but I guess it wasn't enough. When you say "open feeding" do you mean feeding sugar water or pollen sub?
Hello sir i got a question i am new beekeeper what if you close the entrance and not let the robers neither the bees from the box come out for few days untill the bees in the box increase did you try doing so ? sorry for my english
David, I’m a WV (Fairmont) transplant to middle TN (south of Nashville). First year with bees. 3 hives. One is very strong. 2 are good. I have the equipment for a 4th. Should I try a split now from the strong hive or get a package in the spring. By the way, a bee keeper nearby raises queens & supplied my original nucs & gave me new queens for each hive after the clover flow. Mine are gentle but yours seem better. He is a good mentor but he doesn’t make videos! Thanks, Shawn
David, this is off the robber subject but interesting to me [and others I hope]. I made a screened bottom box using some gutter leaf guard. The openings are larger than the #8 mesh but smaller than #4 mesh. I opened the bottom to clean it out and found 12 small hive beetles in the bottom and NO hive beetles in the bottom brood box or the second brood box. The "Beetle Blasters (2) were also empty. Great I thought. However, the bees get thru the mesh also, first just a few - next day maybe twice as many, and by three or four days there are maybe a hundred. They don't seem to go back thru the mesh to get back into the hive. No hive beetles but now I'm worried that I may be trapping my bees out and they don't seem to have enough sense to get back thru. (the bees stay under the screen overnight also) I panicked and changed back to the #8 mesh bottom board (which the beetles don't seem to fall thru) and this morning there were no bees trapped out (they all eventually went in the proper front hive opening) but now I'm back to worrying about the hive beetles. Should I get back to the gutter guard and no hive beetles OR hive beetles and all the bees home? Thanks for any and all replies.
If you're open feeding and you're ready to pull it off, how do you do it without them robbing? Or do you just have to keep the feed on until they stop taking it? I would imagine that they don't stop taking it though....
David, you say to keep feeding and to not stop. When I am wanting them to produce honey for harvesting, dont you want to stop then? You dont want sugar water honey correct?
When you say once you start feeding don’t stop is that sugar water, pollen or both? Thanks for all the videos. I really enjoy them and hello from Tully NY.
that is a great trick to save a hive but you never did say in the comments (that i could see anyway) if the queen survived and what the status was of the hive a few days later. sorry to see this happen i assume the hive was a weaker hive. were all the bees attacking from one hive or was it all of them just selecting that hive for the honey? thanks David this was an excellent video.
Mine get robbed when there is no more in the open feeder... I can't afford 25 lbs of sugar a day for 2 hives and a nuc.. But if I don't they get robbed by the wild bees... David Anything else I can do... Theyre all so small I hate to lose any more by moving again..???
My one apiary of five hives is doing this right now. I've reduced down the entrances and that's about it. I was trying to feed and they just went crazy. I'll see tomorrow how it turns out. First time in twenty years I had this happen.
There are a few good questions on here such as wouldn’t they robbers inside the box just go tell the others of the new location and where do the orientation to that box of the bees that belong to it go? But there are no answers. I love barn yard bees have left awesome reviews to try and win bees and have past on to many many people to watch David with barnyard bees he is excellent for the new beekeeper but man ,,, I need those two answers. Lol I don’t understand why EVERY EVERY EVERY SINGLE TIME I TRY AND DO SPLITS THEY GET ROBBED AND DONT USUALLY MAKE IT. I have tried every trick in the book from moving them to putting up like a four foot by four foot wall right in front of the hive to spray the water hose to mimic rain to putting sheets over the hive to adding obstacles in front and even more things but nothing works. How can I split David and not get robbing? I’m serious when i say this happens EVERY TIME, so frustrating. I have even put the split out away from the very beginning fat from the bee area. Have small entrances using the hardware cloth on some and even closed them off for couple days just to have robbers back once opened. Is there really a solution? If you don’t answer on here please email me Ninasandifer69@ gmail.com. HELP.... I have hives needing split now! This is may 2021.... very new and current . Please help!
If this action took place at dusk when all activity had died down for the day you wouldn't have to release robber bees from main hive which you had just replaced. The robber bees you released now know where you have moved hive to and it won't be long before before problem repeats itself. Timing is everything along with further fooling robbers. Have just successfully stopped robbing of all 9 hives in my mini apiary within 24 hours by using device on market combined with a new one. Did not move one hive. Will release details once patent is granted....
Robber Bees are older Bees, and changing their mindset , once they've started, can be difficult. If you see cappings in front, like this one, they are in trouble! Moving them like Dave showed is the right thing to do. I would add a step or 2 though. When you put the empty hive back in the original one's spot, add a wet sponge with a maybe a spoonful of sugar on it in the back of the hive. Place a bee escape at the entrance in reverse, so bees can only get in, and not out. Close the whole thing up at dark. The next morning, add a frame with eggs and one with pollen and honey, and leave closed up another day. The bees mindset and chemistry actually change, to ensure the survival of this new hive, and making a new queen. The next day I'd move the box again and open up a small entrance and you should have a new hive started. Now you have taken a large number of robbers out of the yard and changed their motivation. You have a new nuc started, and hopefully have now made Lemonade, from the pile of lemons 2 days before. Don't forget to address the hive that was being robbed, to make sure it still has a queen, and enough bees to survive. Thanx again Barnyardbees for your videos and your time spent to educate!
excellent advice thanks. First time beekeeping, I had a swarm rob my only hive 3 weeks ago, my bad, fed my bees in the open. didnt recognise the sign of robber bees. I tried everything moved hive but made little difference. Bees fought to the death. Now queen and handful of bees struggling after total clean out of stores & now the cold autumn arrival. have starting feeding sugar syrup, closed up hive with 1 bee entrance, is it possible to save the bees or accept the inevitable. i will try anything. even thought to put in an enclosed area indoors/shed to save them.
I just caught a robbing in my first colony, saw a ton more action than usual, closer look I saw hoards of bees going inside and coming out... hardly any with pollen... put an entrance reducer down to about 3/4" x 3/8", and it was gone in twenty mins, all back to normal. 😁🤙
Yes, awesome. I was thinking about moving one of the hives being robbed. But I was hesitant. Now I know I can do it before it gets out of control. Thank you so much
Interesting idea. I thought you’d put a entrance trap. It’s nice to know several methods. Thanks for passing on your knowledge brother. You have helped educate me as I will start this coming spring. TY
I had severe robbing the other day and shut down the hive and now I am wondering how many robbers are trapped inside and what to do about it
David, I admire your bravery with the bees. I'd like to see you put your hands on the bees I have in two of my hives. The girls I think came from Satan!
Went in one yesterday and was stung 7 times through my suit no less. All I wanted to do is look in the hive and see how they were doing. Found out
they are doing great.
Ellie McLeod you betta git sum bees from David
Wow that stinks , all my girls can get spicy and i get stung here and there, but are never out right violent....
I had a hive like that. I removed their queen, and introduced a much more docile queen. Now that hive is as gentle as any other I have.
David, after you moved the hive, and then opened the entrance just a little to let the robbers out, did you need to move it again? Those robbers can go tell their hives where the honey pit is now? Thank you for the video, as always, great insight.
Thank you for the reply.
I lost two large hives to robbing this week and I only had six to begin with. This was even with entrance reducers. Neighbor allowed commercial beek to put 30 hives right next to his fence --facing my property -- all with jar feeders on top. Unfortunately all his feeders were empty. We have palmetto starting to bloom now but I guess it wasn't enough. When you say "open feeding" do you mean feeding sugar water or pollen sub?
What happens to the bees from the box that you moved? Won't they try to orient to the original spot, just like the robbers?
Hello sir i got a question i am new beekeeper
what if you close the entrance and not let the robers neither the bees from the box come out for few days untill the bees in the box increase
did you try doing so ?
sorry for my english
David, I’m a WV (Fairmont) transplant to middle TN (south of Nashville). First year with bees. 3 hives. One is very strong. 2 are good. I have the equipment for a 4th. Should I try a split now from the strong hive or get a package in the spring. By the way, a bee keeper nearby raises queens & supplied my original nucs & gave me new queens for each hive after the clover flow. Mine are gentle but yours seem better. He is a good mentor but he doesn’t make videos! Thanks, Shawn
David, this is off the robber subject but interesting to me [and others I hope]. I made a screened bottom box using some gutter leaf guard. The openings are larger than the #8 mesh but smaller than #4 mesh. I opened the bottom to clean it out and found 12 small hive beetles in the bottom and NO hive beetles in the bottom brood box or the second brood box. The "Beetle Blasters (2) were also empty. Great I thought. However, the bees get thru the mesh also, first just a few - next day maybe twice as many, and by three or four days there are maybe a hundred. They don't seem to go back thru the mesh to get back into the hive. No hive beetles but now I'm worried that I may be trapping my bees out and they don't seem to have enough sense to get back thru. (the bees stay under the screen overnight also) I panicked and changed back to the #8 mesh bottom board (which the beetles don't seem to fall thru) and this morning there were no bees trapped out (they all eventually went in the proper front hive opening) but now I'm back to worrying about the hive beetles. Should I get back to the gutter guard and no hive beetles OR hive beetles and all the bees home? Thanks for any and all replies.
I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS THEY ARE SO AWSOME!!
Think you can do a video on preparing the hives for winter?
I would like one as well
Me,too
I never thought about it
If you're open feeding and you're ready to pull it off, how do you do it without them robbing? Or do you just have to keep the feed on until they stop taking it? I would imagine that they don't stop taking it though....
You must go through 100 gallons a day?
David, you say to keep feeding and to not stop. When I am wanting them to produce honey for harvesting, dont you want to stop then? You dont want sugar water honey correct?
When you say once you start feeding don’t stop is that sugar water, pollen or both? Thanks for all the videos. I really enjoy them and hello from Tully NY.
Will the robber bees from the original box, once out, will return to the the original location or back into the original box in the new location?
Thanks for the great idea. Sometimes the simplest Solutions are the best love your videos keep them coming
David knows his stuff!!!!!
no 8 hardware cloth?
Very helpful information. Thank you!
I just order me some of those door entrance for the beetles from you thanks for sharing
What ws the outcome. Did the queen survive.
do you keep the switch in place or put back after a while ?
Thanks for another great video. These help out a lot.
Do I feed both syrup and pollen or just syrup?
Appreciate you sharing your knowledge! Thank you for doing these videos!
Excellent video. Thanks for the insight!!!!
Again David it never fails that in I learn something every time I watch your videos...R Bell
Hey David are your hives built out of OSB plywood, also how do you join the corners glue, screws, and nails or all of the above.
Will the robber bees take over that hive if it’s too late? Or will they take everything and then take off?
If you completely close off the box for a day or so, will the robbers assimilate into the hive that was being robbed?
that is a great trick to save a hive but you never did say in the comments (that i could see anyway) if the queen survived and what the status was of the hive a few days later. sorry to see this happen i assume the hive was a weaker hive. were all the bees attacking from one hive or was it all of them just selecting that hive for the honey? thanks David this was an excellent video.
Good info David, thanks!
How do you keep the grass under the hives killed?without hurting the bees
Thanks for showing this David. By the way who won the free bee's ?
Great tip thanks
At 3:03 is that the queen on the side of the box?
Will the robbers that you released let others know new hive location?
what would happen if you placed empty frames in there?
Were you open feeding sugar water or pollen? Would the result be the same for both?
Thanks!
@@heathertice2881 that's a great question. Thanks for having a mind of your own and the courage to ask questions.
alway learning something. good info.
Mine get robbed when there is no more in the open feeder... I can't afford 25 lbs of sugar a day for 2 hives and a nuc.. But if I don't they get robbed by the wild bees... David Anything else I can do... Theyre all so small I hate to lose any more by moving again..???
No honey in my box what do I need to do for winter
Thanks !!
Good informative videos 😀
Excellent
I need a queen. It been two weak
My one apiary of five hives is doing this right now. I've reduced down the entrances and that's about it. I was trying to feed and they just went crazy. I'll see tomorrow how it turns out. First time in twenty years I had this happen.
I lost my queen in 5 frame nuk
There are a few good questions on here such as wouldn’t they robbers inside the box just go tell the others of the new location and where do the orientation to that box of the bees that belong to it go? But there are no answers. I love barn yard bees have left awesome reviews to try and win bees and have past on to many many people to watch David with barnyard bees he is excellent for the new beekeeper but man ,,, I need those two answers. Lol I don’t understand why EVERY EVERY EVERY SINGLE TIME I TRY AND DO SPLITS THEY GET ROBBED AND DONT USUALLY MAKE IT. I have tried every trick in the book from moving them to putting up like a four foot by four foot wall right in front of the hive to spray the water hose to mimic rain to putting sheets over the hive to adding obstacles in front and even more things but nothing works. How can I split David and not get robbing? I’m serious when i say this happens EVERY TIME, so frustrating. I have even put the split out away from the very beginning fat from the bee area. Have small entrances using the hardware cloth on some and even closed them off for couple days just to have robbers back once opened. Is there really a solution? If you don’t answer on here please email me Ninasandifer69@ gmail.com. HELP.... I have hives needing split now! This is may 2021.... very new and current . Please help!
is that larva on the ground
I see it's wax mappings now
Help
Let us know if this hive survived.....
The worst ones came from a swarm this spring.
If this action took place at dusk when all activity had died down for the day you wouldn't have to release robber bees from main hive which you had just replaced. The robber bees you released now know where you have moved hive to and it won't be long before before problem repeats itself.
Timing is everything along with further fooling robbers.
Have just successfully stopped robbing of all 9 hives in my mini apiary within 24 hours by using device on market combined with a new one. Did not move one hive.
Will release details once patent is granted....
They will robbing the next one
So if they robbed one day are they more likely to rob that same hive again and again
I liv in Ukraine.
Let us know if this hive survived.....