My first car was a 1965 Plymouth Barracuda with a 225 Slant 6. I liven in Minnesota and the winters were brutal. If my Heat riser diverter valve stuck I did notice a deffinate problem starting and running until the carb would warm up. A squirt of WD40 usually freed it up and solved my cold starts and running. On my 37 Plymouth this Heat Riser works fine and I have no problems with start ups or cold running. Be it that I now live in England and winters are non-existant. Especially when your use to Minnesota winters. Good video! Keep em coming Keith!
Really enjoyed seeing you figure out the heat riser as well, since I just redid the heat riser on my 1947 CJ2A as it was stuck half open as had similar issues with hard starting during the summer after stops while doing errands. As for books yeah I search Kijji and Ebay all the time for stuff just picked up: 1947 CARTER CARBURETOR SERVICE INSTRUCTIONS AND MOTOR TUNE UP MANUAL 1954 CARTER CARBURETOR SERVICE MANUAL AND PARTS CATALOG (Might have your Carb in there if you need info) 1950 AUTO-LITE ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT MAINTENANCE AND OPERATION MANUAL VINTAGE SUN DOCUMENTS ON ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS WHEN I PURCHASED A VINTAGE SUN TACH/DWELL METER Keep up the exciting videos and vintage car parts are essential to keeping us sane during lock downs... guess the government thinks else wise.
Hey just wanted to say that you’re videos have been a big help and inspiration for me, I’m fixing up an old studebaker with a flathead 6 and I got no idea what I’m doing so you’re videos have given me a lot more confidence
Thanks for letting me know. That makes me happy to hear that others are learning, and feeling more confident with their own cars. Keep going, working on your car. It’s fun and very rewarding.
Great video Keith. As you can imagine, I found it very interesting. hahahaha!! I'll look forward to the followup on mounting your new Phenolic spacer. It looks like you'll have to invent a stud extension somehow. Just like your car, my studs are too short for a phenolic spacer. I stacked 4 thick home made gaskets. Which was as much as I could go. My studs don't quite extend through the nuts holding the carb on. So I can't go any thicker. Having said that my car starts instantly when it's warm after I shut it off. As for the heat riser spring, I think I'll just leave mine unconnected now. "Once bitten twice shy" Besides here in Sidney, Most sunny winter days ( cruising days) the temp rarely gets below 6 degrees at high noon anyways. If it's that cold I just let the car warm up anyways before taking off. Btw, my 251 has the tall version of that intake manifold.
The vacuum advance that goes to my carb (Maybe its the choke) is twisted nearly shut. I don't know why. It's a 1956 Plymouth Savoy Flathead Six, with 12v. And a three speed manual on the column.
Would you sell one of those hubcaps mate? Noticed you have a box under your bench... lol. For a 37? No stress, love your work and envy your spares inventory. Thanks for another great video
I had to re-watch my video to see what you are able to see in my spare parts stash.! Lol. I could probably let some hub caps go. Email me at kbarron2679@gmail.com
Hi Danny, Thanks for the kind words. Are you totally new to vintage auto repairs and maintenance? What are your goals? To learn how to do as much as you can yourself? I can recommend some great reading. You should definitely get a proper shop manual for your car. Also a "Motors Manual" the 8th edition from about 1945 will suit you very well also. I too own this book. You really should study the basics of all automotive systems. Two books you need to seek out that I highly recommend. #1 Dyke's Automobile And Gasoline Engine Encylcopedia, 20th edition printed in 1943 is must own book. It will teach you a million important things. Book #2 I recommend: "Automotive Fundamentals" by Frazee & Bedell. Printed between 1950 an 1958. I own the 6th edition from 1958. A great read too! You need to understand these things. As you read and learn, you should be taking on small '38 Plymouth projects in your garage and learning to fix things yourself. Put your new skills to work. You'll need tools and dry space to work too of course. That's a great start.
@@ignacioanaya3403 No I meant why the part where the carb mounts to the intake. One is higher or longer . Was wondereing because I have vaporlock issues . My exhaust manifold is getting up around 500 degrees in summer when I use an infrared heat sensor to check. The engine was just rebuilt though and maybe it just has to be broken in before the temp comes down some.
Great videos. The video's are great in helping me to build my 48 coupe. Is there any reason why a well vetted and maintained 1948 plymouth can't be driven daily? 30,000 plus miles a year?
I have heard of vintage cars being restored, looked after very well, and driven daily. You will however need to perform a lot more regular maintenance compared to a newer car. Owners drove them 30,000 miles a year back in the day so we know it can be done. By comparison to newer cars, you'll be giving up some safety, convenience and luxury items. You'll burn a lot more fuel and emit a lot more pollution. You'll consume more oil and your engine will have a shorter life. Great cars, fun to own and drive. Totally up to you.
Good eye. Yes disassembled forks on the bench in my video. The bike seen is my son's Kawi Ninja 250. Its a cheap commuter bike for him. We maintain it and are preparing it now for spring. Fork seals were leaking. Upon disassembly found the chrome to be scored-up pretty bad. Found a pair of good used shocks and installed them. I have owned and ridden all types of motorcycles and dirt-bikes. Harleys, sportbikes, dual sports, scooters, cruisers, loved them all. Great fun.
@@keithsgarage5831 No problem, thanks for the reply. I have a 1950 Fargo 1 - 1/2 ton truck with the 3.9 - 236 cu. in. engine. my intake was broke. I had it welded . would like to have one thats not welded. I am just in the process of reassembling my engine. Love seeing your videos, good luck with your project. Regards from Ontario, Canada. Barry.
Nice truck. I actively seek options on a good old Mopar truck. A Fargo would be an ideal find for me. Hopefully I will land one some day. I'll keep looking!
Great lesson. One can see the simple design that made these cars so reliable and easy to fix 👏👏
My first car was a 1965 Plymouth Barracuda with a 225 Slant 6. I liven in Minnesota and the winters were brutal. If my Heat riser diverter valve stuck I did notice a deffinate problem starting and running until the carb would warm up. A squirt of WD40 usually freed it up and solved my cold starts and running.
On my 37 Plymouth this Heat Riser works fine and I have no problems with start ups or cold running. Be it that I now live in England and winters are non-existant. Especially when your use to Minnesota winters.
Good video! Keep em coming Keith!
Maybe going to need to pull the studs out of the intake and install longer studs. Great video
Loving your videos too, always look forward to new posts! Best to you and yours
Yes indeed! My 41 was having the same issues and when I fixed the heat riser/manifold heat control the problem was solved.
Love your videos! Thanks again for the wonderful information you have been providing us.
Really enjoyed seeing you figure out the heat riser as well, since I just redid the heat riser on my 1947 CJ2A as it was stuck half open as had similar issues with hard starting during the summer after stops while doing errands. As for books yeah I search Kijji and Ebay all the time for stuff just picked up:
1947 CARTER CARBURETOR SERVICE INSTRUCTIONS AND MOTOR TUNE UP MANUAL
1954 CARTER CARBURETOR SERVICE MANUAL AND PARTS CATALOG (Might have your Carb in there if you need info)
1950 AUTO-LITE ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT MAINTENANCE AND OPERATION MANUAL
VINTAGE SUN DOCUMENTS ON ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS WHEN I PURCHASED A VINTAGE SUN TACH/DWELL METER
Keep up the exciting videos and vintage car parts are essential to keeping us sane during lock downs... guess the government thinks else wise.
Thanks. I’ll plan to keep making videos ifya’ll like and keep watching them, and get something valuable from them!
Hey just wanted to say that you’re videos have been a big help and inspiration for me, I’m fixing up an old studebaker with a flathead 6 and I got no idea what I’m doing so you’re videos have given me a lot more confidence
Thanks for letting me know. That makes me happy to hear that others are learning, and feeling more confident with their own cars. Keep going, working on your car. It’s fun and very rewarding.
Great video Keith. As you can imagine, I found it very interesting. hahahaha!! I'll look forward to the followup on mounting your new Phenolic spacer. It looks like you'll have to invent a stud extension somehow. Just like your car, my studs are too short for a phenolic spacer. I stacked 4 thick home made gaskets. Which was as much as I could go. My studs don't quite extend through the nuts holding the carb on. So I can't go any thicker. Having said that my car starts instantly when it's warm after I shut it off. As for the heat riser spring, I think I'll just leave mine unconnected now. "Once bitten twice shy" Besides here in Sidney, Most sunny winter days ( cruising days) the temp rarely gets below 6 degrees at high noon anyways. If it's that cold I just let the car warm up anyways before taking off. Btw, my 251 has the tall version of that intake manifold.
Thanks Keith ("Mr. Manifold")!
Thanks for your enthusiasm 👍
Grew as a young ladd , no internet only library’s. Still reading
You’re a nice guy, informative. Just subbed
Hi Keith.I would like to know what is the purpose for the different shaft distributor lenght(IAT 1035 and IAT4011).Best Regards.
37 Dodge 48 Dodge. 21 Dodge in the houzz!
The vacuum advance that goes to my carb (Maybe its the choke) is twisted nearly shut. I don't know why. It's a 1956 Plymouth Savoy Flathead Six, with 12v. And a three speed manual on the column.
I have the parts (brake lines and fittings) to make it ("not" a thing)
Would you sell one of those hubcaps mate? Noticed you have a box under your bench... lol. For a 37? No stress, love your work and envy your spares inventory. Thanks for another great video
I had to re-watch my video to see what you are able to see in my spare parts stash.! Lol. I could probably let some hub caps go. Email me at kbarron2679@gmail.com
I just picked up a 38' plymouth, your videos are awesome! Do you by any chance have any resources you could recommend for how tos and where to start?
Hi Danny, Thanks for the kind words. Are you totally new to vintage auto repairs and maintenance? What are your goals? To learn how to do as much as you can yourself? I can recommend some great reading. You should definitely get a proper shop manual for your car. Also a "Motors Manual" the 8th edition from about 1945 will suit you very well also. I too own this book. You really should study the basics of all automotive systems. Two books you need to seek out that I highly recommend. #1 Dyke's Automobile And Gasoline Engine Encylcopedia, 20th edition printed in 1943 is must own book. It will teach you a million important things. Book #2 I recommend: "Automotive Fundamentals" by Frazee & Bedell. Printed between 1950 an 1958. I own the 6th edition from 1958. A great read too! You need to understand these things. As you read and learn, you should be taking on small '38 Plymouth projects in your garage and learning to fix things yourself. Put your new skills to work. You'll need tools and dry space to work too of course. That's a great start.
anyone know why they had the two different manifolds one higher than the other?
the higher is intake and the lower is exhaust
@@ignacioanaya3403 No I meant why the part where the carb mounts to the intake. One is higher or longer . Was wondereing because I have vaporlock issues . My exhaust manifold is getting up around 500 degrees in summer when I use an infrared heat sensor to check. The engine was just rebuilt though and maybe it just has to be broken in before the temp comes down some.
@@wiboater4 Got it, he mentions ay 15:30 it could be due to carburator design or may be to prevent the carb to get too hot.
Great videos. The video's are great in helping me to build my 48 coupe. Is there any reason why a well vetted and maintained 1948 plymouth can't be driven daily? 30,000 plus miles a year?
I have heard of vintage cars being restored, looked after very well, and driven daily. You will however need to perform a lot more regular maintenance compared to a newer car. Owners drove them 30,000 miles a year back in the day so we know it can be done. By comparison to newer cars, you'll be giving up some safety, convenience and luxury items. You'll burn a lot more fuel and emit a lot more pollution. You'll consume more oil and your engine will have a shorter life. Great cars, fun to own and drive. Totally up to you.
Thank you. I am going to shoot for making it a daily driver
I see you're a rider - what kind of bike you got there? Looks like disassembled forks on the bench - for that bike or another?
Good eye. Yes disassembled forks on the bench in my video. The bike seen is my son's Kawi Ninja 250. Its a cheap commuter bike for him. We maintain it and are preparing it now for spring. Fork seals were leaking. Upon disassembly found the chrome to be scored-up pretty bad. Found a pair of good used shocks and installed them. I have owned and ridden all types of motorcycles and dirt-bikes. Harleys, sportbikes, dual sports, scooters, cruisers, loved them all. Great fun.
Keith, quick question: would you be willing to sell that spare intake you have?
Sorry no. I’d like to hang on to it.
@@keithsgarage5831 No problem, thanks for the reply.
I have a 1950 Fargo 1 - 1/2 ton truck
with the 3.9 - 236 cu. in. engine.
my intake was broke. I had it welded .
would like to have one thats not welded.
I am just in the process of reassembling my engine.
Love seeing your videos, good luck with your project.
Regards from Ontario, Canada.
Barry.
Nice truck. I actively seek options on a good old Mopar truck. A Fargo would be an ideal find for me. Hopefully I will land one some day. I'll keep looking!