I bet it was my extra crossed fingers that tipped the scale for no #plasterdisaster. Great stuff! So much thought and knowledge in a 30 minute video and I still feel like I could do this too now = mad video skills too.
Hey Tiki man! Could you show how you make your signature and edition area on the bottom of your pieces. You show everything else, is this a secret ? Big fan!
Henrik, you are the best kind of fun mad scientist! I stumbled across your videos while searching for Tiki stuff for the bar I'm building. I'm a maker with several 3D printers and a laser cutter so we're kindred spirits indeed. I just wanted to thank you for these amazing videos that are as witty as they are informative. With your help I'm making my first mold this weekend. Thanks again for sharing your talent and skill!
I really enjoy following the mold process. You're so good at presenting the process, I feel like I understand the technique. My favorite moment, however, is when you used the electric drill as a hammer. I saw a kindred spirit. Keeping fingers crossed. Mahalo.
I guess because I watch your videos, youtube recommended Robert Tolone to me, who works with rubber and resin. He used a method called rotational molding, where you pour resin into the mold and spin it around until it sets. This will produce a hollow object, kinda like slip casting. It's probably not practical for the volumes that you want to produce, but have you ever considered trying this approach with your mugs?
I did a lot of roto-casting in LA back in my special effects days, but ceramic slip is a totally different animal than resin. I wish it would work! the slip needs time to sit against the plaster in order to build up thickness - I go deep into it here: ruclips.net/video/2tU6sBD9r_I/видео.html
I learn an insane amount from your videos, thank you for being so open! Was wondering how long you typically let your plaster dry before you pour the next section up against it? It seems like maybe an hour or a couple of hours is typical for you?
Thank you so much! I usually pour new parts as the mold takes shape. I let the poured plaster cure for an hour, then I start to make the walls for the next piece. That usually takes some time - and occasionally I’ll continue the mold the next day (if it’s complex and I can’t tackle the whole thing in one day)
Thank you so much, Henrik! Worked like a charm. Also found a pair of those slip ring opening tools for less than $20 and that has been such a helpful thing, to be able to apply opening pressure in the exact direction that you need, priceless.
As always, very informative. One quest I do have is how/when do you put in your mug base detail? You cast the base and it had zero detail (like your VanTiki logo). I normally add that detail as part of the main sculp so my base has all the detail needed (except for the x of x)
I'm curious about the plaster mixing. Doesn't the powered mixing tool introduce air bubbles to the plaster mix? Do you let it sit for a while to get the bubbles out? Thanks for being here, teaching all of us the tricks of your trade. And for being an entertaining teacher!
Good question! I find the mixer does a much better job than when I used my hand. I’ll go into it further in the episode after next when we cast the production plaster molds
Great episode Henrik. I know you like to keep the bottom signature a mystery. Do you know of any reference material or videos to review to get some clues on how it is done? Would love to see you make a special episode of how to do precision wording or lettering on sculpts with clay or 3D options and how to make and use decals? You would get like a million views.
Thank you for these videos you are creating I really appreciate your attention to detail, style and work ethic and reasoning I think you are such a treasure! Is there any chance in the universe you'd be available for consulting or building a few larger molds?
I love your process videos and admire your scheduling, I hope to some day have such dialed in production methods for my work! When do you create the foot?
Just found your channel. Used to live in Eugene. Great to see a former neighbor rocking it. What kind/brand of plaster do you use? Something from Georgie’s?
@@vantikistudio Howdy! Thank you for the quick reply. Watching and liking more of your videos. I wish I found you before I left Eugene. You seem like a fun guy!
Your videos are very informative, thanks from a newbie =) Could you tell me what soap is best to use as a plaster separator? Doesn't oil soap interfere with the absorption of the slip by the plaster in the future?
Murphys oil soap is what lots of folks use, but I’ve recently switched to Pure Lube mold soap. I don’t cast from my master plaster mold (I make a silicone mold of it and then cast production plaster molds) so I don’t worry about removing the mold soap. It can be tricky - vinegar works well. NOTE - it is almost impossible to remove the Pure Lube from what I’ve been told.
Fun video! I’m just learning to make moulds especially 2 part ones. Do you have any suggestions on how to calculate the right amount of plaster / volume to make for the frame? Thanks!
The book I suggest in the description has a set of tables to help with volume calculations. I always try to make more plaster than I think I’ll need for the first pieces
Fantastic video!!! Quick question: Removing the clay for the back (third part) of the mold was harder. Does using a different color of clay help with not going too deep or is it more important to just take your time?
Peace be upon you. Thank you for these wonderful educational videos. They must have taken you a lot of time and effort. I am grateful to you for the valuable information you provide. I also do not miss the opportunity to criticize, as there is only one flaw in your videos, which is a lot of talk about them, so try to shorten them and make them more applied. Thank you Icône de validation par la communauté
out of curiosity, if you want to reclaim the modeling clay how do you remove the soap and pledge? just water? i would think you don't to mix that into the clay to the next build
Water works great! I often don’t bother, and use the “dirty” clay to begin the build up the next sculpture. That way I know the parts of clay with release and a few plaster or ceramic clay bits are buried deep in the sculpture
Beautiful work as always! I want to ask about the tip of the horn: how are you going to make sure you don’t catch an air bubble there when you’re casting?
I use the least expensive clay I can get from my local ceramics shop (Georgies Ceramics - I believe it’s called Wonder White) - any basic white clay body will do. We used a laguna white clay in the FX industry
@@vantikistudio I can actually check out Georgies bc I'm in the Portland area :) Next step is to actually find the time/space to try out some of my ideas (time being more of an issue with the whole job thing and all).
Henrik I SWEAR when you were taking off the plaster that you had said "VanTastic." In the event that you didn't, please start coining that term anytime something comes out well on your videos.
To prevent a plaster disaster - you could line the cottle boards with a plastic bag. Then you wouldn't have to worry about making the box water tight. The resulting plaster casting outside might be a little wrinkly, but meh. Your thoughts comments ?
I never get tired of watching your entire work process; I hope well'get more in the future. I love your art!
Thank you so much!
I'm struggling to make a coffee cup mold, this guy over here is making the Hubble Telescope of mugs. Well done!
Ha! Thanks!
14:02 "no mold shame" thanks for the encouragement for those still learning to make non-ugly molds!
No mold is ugly if it works!
Its not just a good work also you have woderfull way to explain.
Thank you!
you are a gifted teacher. Thank you
Wow, thank you!
I would really love to see the step by step why you make the bottoms of your cups, with out sculpting the design into the clay
That will remain part of the mystery 😉
Back-to-back TTT episodes, we're getting spoiled! No #plasterdisaster from the #plastermoldmaster!
Right?! I will be slowing down the release schedule for the next few episodes 😄
@@vantikistudio Don't do that!!! hahaha
I bet it was my extra crossed fingers that tipped the scale for no #plasterdisaster. Great stuff! So much thought and knowledge in a 30 minute video and I still feel like I could do this too now = mad video skills too.
Every crossed finger helps 😄 Thank you for watching!
Looking forward to the next installment!
Hey Tiki man! Could you show how you make your signature and edition area on the bottom of your pieces. You show everything else, is this a secret ? Big fan!
I like to keep a little mystery in the process
My favourite part of Tuesdays :) That sigh of relief at the end! I think i was holding my breath too. Fantastic video as always!
Opening molds is SO STRESSFUL! 😮💨
Thank you for watching!
Henrik, you are the best kind of fun mad scientist! I stumbled across your videos while searching for Tiki stuff for the bar I'm building. I'm a maker with several 3D printers and a laser cutter so we're kindred spirits indeed. I just wanted to thank you for these amazing videos that are as witty as they are informative. With your help I'm making my first mold this weekend.
Thanks again for sharing your talent and skill!
Thanks for watching!! Someday I may bug you with 3D printer questions!
@@vantikistudio Please do! 😊
I just love this guy x
Thanks for providing such a great overview of your mold making process!
Sure thing! Thanks for watching! Please subscribe and share with folks who may enjoy it!
I really enjoy following the mold process. You're so good at presenting the process, I feel like I understand the technique.
My favorite moment, however, is when you used the electric drill as a hammer. I saw a kindred spirit.
Keeping fingers crossed.
Mahalo.
Thank you! As Adam Savage one said, every tool is a hammer 😆
You’re my favorite creator! You and your wife are extremely talented 💝
Wow, thank you! Thanks for watching!
I just finished making my first mold. It looks like a success, so thanks for the instruction!
Congratulations on the mold! It is always magical to make molds and duplicate objects!
thanks for making new episodes, this episode was very informative , your style of art is very strange and beautiful, hope to buy your mugs in future 🔮
Thank you!
I guess because I watch your videos, youtube recommended Robert Tolone to me, who works with rubber and resin. He used a method called rotational molding, where you pour resin into the mold and spin it around until it sets. This will produce a hollow object, kinda like slip casting.
It's probably not practical for the volumes that you want to produce, but have you ever considered trying this approach with your mugs?
I did a lot of roto-casting in LA back in my special effects days, but ceramic slip is a totally different animal than resin. I wish it would work! the slip needs time to sit against the plaster in order to build up thickness - I go deep into it here:
ruclips.net/video/2tU6sBD9r_I/видео.html
fantastic breakdown - thanks so much for this, it's appreciated
Sure thing! Thanks for watching!
Perfect as always
I learn an insane amount from your videos, thank you for being so open! Was wondering how long you typically let your plaster dry before you pour the next section up against it? It seems like maybe an hour or a couple of hours is typical for you?
Thank you so much! I usually pour new parts as the mold takes shape. I let the poured plaster cure for an hour, then I start to make the walls for the next piece. That usually takes some time - and occasionally I’ll continue the mold the next day (if it’s complex and I can’t tackle the whole thing in one day)
Thank you so much, Henrik! Worked like a charm. Also found a pair of those slip ring opening tools for less than $20 and that has been such a helpful thing, to be able to apply opening pressure in the exact direction that you need, priceless.
As always, very informative. One quest I do have is how/when do you put in your mug base detail? You cast the base and it had zero detail (like your VanTiki logo). I normally add that detail as part of the main sculp so my base has all the detail needed (except for the x of x)
Aloha! I keep the way I do the bases a mystery
@@vantikistudio why would you not share that? is a concern about competition? You reveal so much here and yet choose to keep some secrets.
@@tinellie7025 it’s a part of the process I chose not to share. There are lots of ways to do it, and I’ve used many techniques through the years.
@@vantikistudio fair enough! thanks for the reply.
@@vantikistudio Ahah! I get you buds. I have a pretty good idea on how you do it but I get why you won't share that particular trade secret.
I'm curious about the plaster mixing. Doesn't the powered mixing tool introduce air bubbles to the plaster mix? Do you let it sit for a while to get the bubbles out? Thanks for being here, teaching all of us the tricks of your trade. And for being an entertaining teacher!
Good question! I find the mixer does a much better job than when I used my hand. I’ll go into it further in the episode after next when we cast the production plaster molds
@@vantikistudio thank you, I appreciate your response!
Genio! Admiro su trabajo , gracias !
More!!!
Soon!!! 😄
When will we see you cook the pizza?!😁😁
Love these videos, it's been a bad day and your videos cheer me right up! 👍🏻
Thanks man! I hope you feel better soon
Great episode Henrik. I know you like to keep the bottom signature a mystery. Do you know of any reference material or videos to review to get some clues on how it is done? Would love to see you make a special episode of how to do precision wording or lettering on sculpts with clay or 3D options and how to make and use decals? You would get like a million views.
We may do a decal episode in the future 🤙
Thank you for these videos you are creating I really appreciate your attention to detail, style and work ethic and reasoning I think you are such a treasure! Is there any chance in the universe you'd be available for consulting or building a few larger molds?
Thank you so much! I’m afraid we’re barely able to get our own studio work done, and can’t take on any outside mold commissions
fantastic
Thank you!
I love your process videos and admire your scheduling, I hope to some day have such dialed in production methods for my work! When do you create the foot?
The foot is the one part of the process I like to keep a mystery 😄
Just found your channel. Used to live in Eugene. Great to see a former neighbor rocking it.
What kind/brand of plaster do you use? Something from Georgie’s?
Aloha! I get USG pottery plaster from, you guessed it, Georgies in Eugene 😄
@@vantikistudio Howdy! Thank you for the quick reply. Watching and liking more of your videos. I wish I found you before I left Eugene. You seem like a fun guy!
25:17 - "I love it when a plan comes together" - Hannibal Smith
😂
Your videos are very informative, thanks from a newbie =) Could you tell me what soap is best to use as a plaster separator?
Doesn't oil soap interfere with the absorption of the slip by the plaster in the future?
Murphys oil soap is what lots of folks use, but I’ve recently switched to Pure Lube mold soap. I don’t cast from my master plaster mold (I make a silicone mold of it and then cast production plaster molds) so I don’t worry about removing the mold soap. It can be tricky - vinegar works well. NOTE - it is almost impossible to remove the Pure Lube from what I’ve been told.
Fun video! I’m just learning to make moulds especially 2 part ones. Do you have any suggestions on how to calculate the right amount of plaster / volume to make for the frame? Thanks!
The book I suggest in the description has a set of tables to help with volume calculations. I always try to make more plaster than I think I’ll need for the first pieces
Fantastic video!!! Quick question: Removing the clay for the back (third part) of the mold was harder. Does using a different color of clay help with not going too deep or is it more important to just take your time?
The big help is the water based clay I use for making the molds is very soft, and the model clay that the sculpture is made of is quite hard.
Peace be upon you. Thank you for these wonderful educational videos. They must have taken you a lot of time and effort. I am grateful to you for the valuable information you provide. I also do not miss the opportunity to criticize, as there is only one flaw in your videos, which is a lot of talk about them, so try to shorten them and make them more applied. Thank you
Icône de validation par la communauté
Thanks for watching! I won’t make them any shorter, as I like to fill them with as much info as I can. You can always skip ahead or fast forward 😁
@@vantikistudio It was my point of view, you are always free and success will come to you, God willing
Great video, sir can i cast plaster on plaster mold i need just a few pieces.
You can - but be sure to use A LOT of release! I’d do some deep research for the best release agent to use. Plaster loves to stick to plaster.
out of curiosity, if you want to reclaim the modeling clay how do you remove the soap and pledge? just water? i would think you don't to mix that into the clay to the next build
Water works great! I often don’t bother, and use the “dirty” clay to begin the build up the next sculpture. That way I know the parts of clay with release and a few plaster or ceramic clay bits are buried deep in the sculpture
@@vantikistudio that is good to know. thanks
Beautiful work as always! I want to ask about the tip of the horn: how are you going to make sure you don’t catch an air bubble there when you’re casting?
Good question! I'll definitely talk about that in the upcoming casting episode for this mug
@@vantikistudio thanks Mr Van Tiki!
Would you need a relief hole at the top of the horn to let out any air bubbles?
great question! I’ll be addressing just that in the casting episode 🤙
What clay are u using to s ulpt anddid u bisque fire it before making a mold
I sculpt all my master models in monster clay, a wax based modeling clay. I do not fire them.
What are the tiny square clay of pieces you added before you poured the plaster?
Well spotted! Those are pry points - they will make little pockets in the mold seam that I can put mold opening pliers into and pry open the mold
@@vantikistudioYou are truly a genius! Now I will try to use this knowledge.😮
you mention using a water based clay to build up the clay walls, what brand did you use and where can I find it?
I use the least expensive clay I can get from my local ceramics shop (Georgies Ceramics - I believe it’s called Wonder White) - any basic white clay body will do. We used a laguna white clay in the FX industry
@@vantikistudio thanks!
@@vantikistudio I can actually check out Georgies bc I'm in the Portland area :) Next step is to actually find the time/space to try out some of my ideas (time being more of an issue with the whole job thing and all).
Henrik I SWEAR when you were taking off the plaster that you had said "VanTastic." In the event that you didn't, please start coining that term anytime something comes out well on your videos.
😂 VanTastic™️
To prevent a plaster disaster - you could line the cottle boards with a plastic bag. Then you wouldn't have to worry about making the box water tight. The resulting plaster casting outside might be a little wrinkly, but meh. Your thoughts comments ?
that's a good thought!