My telephoto lens mistake no. 1: leaving it in my backpack when I have an opportunity to use it... Wonder which of the two teles you will buy and why. I chose the 55-200: if it is good enough for Andy Mumford it certainly is for me...
I purchased the Sony 70-350 for my mirrorless Sony and I'm still trying to find ways to compose images that are interesting and not just "close-ups" of subjects. Thanks for the tips!
I just stumbled upon your channel, and I'd like to thank you. I've been a photographer for over 30 years, your insight, calm demeanor and excellent advice is refreshing and spot on. I did subscribe, and I'm always eager to learn. Have a great day! Steph
I often find wind-induced tripod vibrations - that get transferred to the camera body - are a bigger source of mischief than those associated with telephoto lens cap vibrations. A weight attached to the underside of the tripod works wonders for this situation. On a related note, tripod spikes - as opposed to tripod rubber feet - that firmly anchor the tripod to the ground - also helps when the wind is particularly muscular.
Ok. Not a great solution if you are walk a good amount of distance, but I will bring 2 one gallon jugs of water and a three foot piece of rope. hang the jugs under the rope, this will give +/- 13lbs of weight for grounding
I always use a tripod when shooting landscapes. However, there are situations when a tripod is too cumbersome - when shooting some action scenes or wildlife, for example. When handheld, the old rule of thumb to avoid shake is to set the shutter speed at 1 divided by the focal length; i.e., a 200mm lens handheld should have a shutter speed less than or equal to 1/200 sec. To set this automatically for a zoom telephoto lens on my Nikon D850, I set the mode to PROGRAM, and turn on Auto-ISO. The camera will set the correct shutter speed for whatever focal length, and adjust the aperture and ISO accordingly. I shot an air show last year using this technique, and the results were fantastic!
one solution to the long lens "slow shutter" is to add a lens support, a video camera long plate, with a foot facing up, to cradle the lens, like a trailer yachts' mast staff, when it's folded; it gives the lens the support, but importantly, allows you to shift the Centre of gravity to the balance point, between the lens and camera tripod thread, to where a long lens foot would be situated. One other tip, esp. for film cameras, MF in particular due to large mirrors, use the M-up mode, to activate the vibrations, let them settle, then fire the shutter, when everything's calmed down. OR if you have a mirrorless system, use the Electronic shutter, so the curtain motion is in-lieu of the mirror up mode, done before the image is recorded.
Camera hack: I use a plastic zipper seal sandwich bag about half filled with sand, put that one inside a second sandwich bag (for safety's sake)and you can lay that across the top of the camera just before you are ready to fire the shutter. It's a pound or two of extra inertia that helps keep that lens still.
All solid advice. For those of us using a DSLR the mirror slap can introduce vibration as well. By using the electronic shutter you can avoid that issue.
Having been a Pentax user for just over 40 years I use my 40 year old full frame 135mm lens on my crop sensor camera. Not only does it act like a 200mm prime it is tiny (smaller than most modern 18-55 ) and very light one of my favourite lenses to use... superb in all aspects and all manual lolz.
I just started landscape photography and buying things one by one. I generally watch 3 channels. Marks, Nigel Danson, Andy mumfords. Mark is the best one. Down to earth. Honest opinion. Incredible.
Sweet spot of a lens can be roughly found using the "largest aperture times two" formula. On my kit lens it's f/7.1, and I tested it just to be sure. The formula was indeed correct.
Hi Mark, it’s funny that you had this video when I had all the mistakes you just pointed out. In fact, I was struggling yesterday using a 100-400 lens… but I was able to correct them all but it took some time to have them all cleared out. The other problem the telephoto lens did was doing a pano. I am second guessing the use of the lens by deciding to do a pano, which a 24-105 can easily achieve, without having to stitch as much files.
All of these tips will help me slow down and really think about my shot. Switching from wildlife (flying birds) to landscape is sometimes difficult for me. I am still in that frantic state trying to get everything right in that split second. Great tips!!!
I've been using the XF 55-200 for a year now, and it's a really good lens! I know the other one is at f/2.8, but f/4.8 at 200mm is still really good, I would never dream of swapping this lens! (Except for the 100-400) The 55-200 is perhaps the most cost effective lens of the Fuji line up. Keep up the good videos Mark!
And rumour suggests Fuji is to release a 70-300 soon ....
4 года назад+2
Over-zooming: guilty as charged! I've done many times in the past, but now I do a few shots in different focal lengths. I ruined some shots in the past because of over-zooming. When I got home, I'd look at those shots and see the impact of the overall scene was lost in the longest focal length. Now, I have options to pick what best suits me in terms of composition.
I've still not made a decision on which lens to buy. 50-140 or 55-200? Be interesting to find out what you decide on. Maybe do a little comparison video? ? Thanks for all the time you take to share your passion for photography.
Solid tips, Mark. Closely related to the micro-shake tip is wind. No matter how stable your tripod, a steady (or worse, gusting) high wind will wreak havoc on a long Zoom or telephoto. Leaning on the camera to "hold it steady" will make vibrations worse. I speak from recent experimental experience with a 150-600mm zoom.
I stand between the wind and camera in that situation. There's still turbulence but it is much less than direct blast on the camera. A heavy sturdy tripod, or at least sturdy, is tremendously helpful.
@@thomasmaughan4798 in my case I'd have been in the shot. In a steady 30mph wind gusting to 45, it wouldn't have helped anyway. Those were my conditions. Tropical storm had just gone through..
What an amazing video Mark. Superb tips. Recently i bought 70-300 Fuji lens. I faced all these issues. And upset with the lens and returned to Fuji to check if there is a problem in the lens. I am waiting for their comment. Meanwhile I happen to see this video. Thanks Mark. No where these types of practical tips are available. You hold the viewers hand and take them to new heights in photography. Thanks again. But I have a doubt how to lock the auto focus. Please reply. Do we get the collar for 70-300 lens?
One thing I have found throughout my Landscape experience especially on Fuji lenses that I get sharper images keeping F-stop auto and it always stays around 5.6 - 8. The reason that I am saying is that I have taken F/8 to an entire tour and F-Auto for an entire tour and the Auto images looks more sharper and balanced exposed.
Mark, I always learn at least (at least!) one thing from every video. You're such a great teacher. Might I make a suggestion after reading through the comments? Could you embed the info on your gear (like the tripod) in the video? So many people are asking. Happily anticipating your next vid. Thanks so much!
Hi Mary! Thanks so much - I really appreciate that. Here is the link for the tripod line that I'm using: stetindenphoto.com/collections/global-elite-photographer-series. If you're looking for a new tripod you can use my promo code to save 10% MARKDENNEY2020C10
Hi Mark. Am guilty of not leaving enough room around my subjects. It affects cropping the edges, but also if you wish to frame the image after processing, it might not be possible because we don't leave enough room around the image. Love your vlog. Wish that I could attend one of your classes, but health problems take that option away. So, appreciate all that you present in your vlog's. You are the best teacher on landscape photography out here. Bill.
Bought the Fuji 100-400 during the last sale. Finally got it 2 weeks ago and it’s a winner. I have the 55-200 and while the small size is awesome I like the images from the 100-400 more. Using both with my XT 2. I rented the 100-400 twice so I knew what I was getting myself into.
You can keep your camera in manual mode and select the option AF+MF in the menu. This way the AF is active when the switch is in the M position but you just have to turn your focus ring a little bit for the camera to automatically zoom in your focus point and allow you to focus manually. I find this option to be really convenient (even more for telephoto) so I just switch between modes M (with AF+MF) and C.
I zoomed inn to maximum level to properly focus, on my lens the other week. I was surprised the amount of shake on just a 300mm with almost no wind. Also stuck my tripod on the beach, the delicate waves washed over my shoes, but the effect those waves had on the tripod, the amouint of shake it put on my camera, was astounding. I needed a couple of seconds on the shutter, but it was impossible on just 35mm. I wish I had the clarity in my thoughts to power up the ISO, and not worry so much about the ISO-nastyness. It was a gloomy day anyways.
I know a lot of you guys are using mirrorless cameras these days, But you forgot to add the Photogrphers that are still using DSLRs. You can use the mirror lockup or live view to reduce camera shake.
Came here to say this. I still shoot DSLR and often use mirror lockup for slow shutter speeds. If you don’t have a remote shutter release to use with the mirror lockup, you can use exposure delay, which will lock the mirror up and wait a predetermined amount of time before releasing the shutter.
Aside from those things, people could also see shutter shock with certain shutter speeds on the really high resolution cameras, even mirrorless, if electronic first curtain shutter isn’t enabled.
On the D810 at 200mm with a low shutter speed, I almost always use Mirror Up. Even with a delayed exposure, the mirror movement will create enough shake to cause blur.
Not only will a lens hood provide more area on which wind can act to introduce camera shake in general, but since it's the farthest part of the lens, it has the longest moment arm, meaning the force applied to the lens hood will apply more torque and move the camera more than if the same force were applied anywhere else closer to the camera body.
Mark always enjoying your videos. I have so much to learn but the journey is fantastic. One thing, as a newer photographer, is many will talk about a lens having a sweet spot in terms of sharpness. Other than taking lots of photos, is there a way to determine my particular lenses sweet spots? Thanks as always
Thanks a lot for yet another enlightening video Mark. Can you clarify the second point regarding using a larger aperture? From a compositional point of view it can already be challenging to deal with the shrinkage of depth of field with increasing focal length (doubling the FL increases the hyperfocal distance by a factor 4). Using a larger aperture on top of that would be even less DOF. How do you deal with that? Are you simply focus stacking much more frequently?
Nice video as always; chances are someone has already said this - but... Going out to 200mm (300mm equiv on the XT4) I found it pretty much essential to use electronic shutter. The shutter shock was enough to just take the edge off the sharpness of my vintage 200mm Fujinon. Took the longest time to figure out what was going on. I don't see it at 135mm (200 ish equiv I guess) only with a sharp lense at very long focal length. Maybe all that glass stuck out infront of the camera induces some sort of reasonant vibration - speculating here...
Interesting tip about removing the lens hood, Mark. I suppose this is less critical for handheld telephoto shots. Also about the soft focus: I've noticed that on rare occasions, my camera would miss focus if the focus point was on a brightly lit pinpoint light source (for example, Christmas tree lights). It's happened on two cameras now.
Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed that e-mails from RUclips alerting us to new tutorials have not been coming through of late. I am subscribed, and the "bell" is set to all.
I heard a piece of advice once: When shooting with telephoto lenses the shutter speed should be AT LEAST 1/focal length. For example at 200mm the shutter speed should be at least 1/200. (for shooting handheld)
The reciprocal rule. A very old school photography technique. I don't think it holds nearly as true today as it did in the film days. Lenses are SO much sharper these days then they used to be and that extra resolving power of the lens+sensor tend to capture all kinds of micro-shakes. So the rule today seems to be more like 2:1 shutter:FL instead of 1:1. That's why OIS and IBIS has become such desirable features because they counteract these sharp camera and lenses tendency to pick up any sort of camera shake.
I’m loving seeing the Fuji images and equipment. I’m looking at going with the Fuji x-T4 but now that the X-t3 has dropped I’m wondering if IBS and other updates is worth the extra $700 or so for pure landscape photography.
Mark Denney thanks! I currently don’t do much video but have aspirations to do some b-roll type images just for things like Instagram reels, etc. that’s where I thought the ibs might be worth it. Love your channel!
Many thanks Paul (& dear Mark as usual for sharing your Art work). When no tripod quite simple: OIS lenses on my XT3, other ones (ultimate primes or the perfect 16-55) on my XT4. Greetings 🇨🇭
Thomas Heaton is doing the same as Mark Denny Paul. XT3 for some of his photos and XT4 for video. I'm not a Fuji user but it seems that the pros are going that way.
I really hope you will make a video about the tele-comparison! I found that from F8 and onwards, I could not tell a difference between the two. The 50-140 was crisper (more contrast) and maybe a bit sharper from 2.8 to F8.
Excellent, some really useful tips in this video. Mark, I had the XC 50-230 (an under-rated lens IMHO) until yesterday, when I broke it. Camera fell off the tripod. Camera fine, lens not so much! (The mount broke). Anyway, I’m thinking it’s an opportunity to upgrade and I’ve been looking at the 55-200 and the 50-140. One thing the 50-140 has that the 55-200 doesn’t is weather-sealing. Do you have any views on the importance of this in your experience? (My work is mostly coastal, astro and desert). Thanks.
Well, i’d surely go for the 55-200mm. I owned both, and also the 50-230mm, which i didn’t even dislike, it was a supersharp piece of plastic. The 55-200 is exactly right. I use telephoto more and more. U maybe forgot to mention that fujifilm advices to keep the OIS on using a tripod too, the camera detects this. Most camera’s however are not suited for keeping it on. I use the canon 70-300mm L on my sony a7riii, and the 55-200mm on my fuji xt3. Great vid mark..! 👌🏼
Good rule I learned years ago that I follow is to always keep the shutter speed higher than the focal length of the lens when you're not using a tripod. This will help reduce or eliminate camera shake problems. So if you're using a 300mm lens, shoot at 1/300th or faster.
Great timing - I've just taken delivery today of a Fuji 55-200 (which I suspect you'll go for)!! Really extremely useful "real world" tips - I'm looking forward to put them into practice - many thanks for a great video!!
I wonder which lens you will pick - the 55-200 or the 50-140? I chose for the 55-200 for portability, but I have never come to terms with the zoom creep (while walking around to compose). Lack of WR and build quality are not on par with the 16-55, so it is more a casual shooter lens. In terms of IQ I do not think, that you will not see much of a difference as the 50-140 seems to be overhyped (see Dustin Abbotts latest review).
Nice video. I would like to hear more about focus, especially at night, either through the lens or Live View, I am having difficulties.Also, in this video what tripod and head, mount that you are using. I have a Manfroto and am not happy. I would like an all around head etc, that can be used on a tracker for astrophotography as well.
Great video mark - I’ve fallen victim of the soft focus a couple times. Out of curiosity what l-bracket do you have for the Fuji (xt4?) I saw in the video?
Thanks, that was very helpful. I also have the 55-200 fuji lens & am very pleased with the results. I don’t use the tripod often because of the inconvenience & many venues forbid them or make impractical, but I do compensate by bracing myself & using a high iso - up to 1000 or 1600 when shooting wildlife. btw how would I submit photos for these prizes? Great video!
Very useful Mark. I've made a point recently of not worrying about going up to ISO400 - with modern cameras I think it's really hard to tell the difference - all but impossible at 'normal' image sizes in my experience. Just got a camera that has focus peaking on it so thanks for that tip particularly.
Excellent video that will undoubtedly help improve my results. You must have been peaking at my telephoto images, shaking your head and thinking this poor guy needs some help!
Great timing on this vid, as I have been thinking of doing something other than wide angle. Mentally planning some sunsets from a high up hiking point, and the possibility of zooming in on spots. Ill let ya know if it works out.
I like my Canon 70-300 IS . I generally shoot in f/8-f/11 range and try to avoid shooting at the extreme ends of the zoom range . I used to suffer from Canon "L" lens envy , but I have found my current setup more than satisfactory , and it is becoming harder for me to justify the significant expense of one of Canons big white lumps .
Mark, do you print your on photos or do you send them to a service? example Shutterfly. My home printer has died and I am at a crossroads to send out or replace. Appreciate your comments.
Lately have been experimenting with 300 vs 200 for landscape. All the tips you gave on what not to do were great but the one that resonated the most was on aperture - using the sweet spot - can’t wait to try this out soon!
Great video! Bought a Tamron 70-200mm long ago and had a hard time learning how to better use it. I made (and sometimes still make) all those mistakes sometimes in random order 🙈
Mark, the 50-140 is a great lens. Yes a little heavier but it is extendable as well with the 1.4 teleconverter. The lower priced lens is not. This could actually save you pounds and dollars going forwards. Interesting that you are moving from Sony to Fuji and I am moving from Fuji back to Nikon as I can use my existing Nikon lenses as well with my Z7 as well as my older D810. As I go forward, I'll be slowly replacing with the newer and smaller S lenses. Your 10-24 and the 50-140 are super lenses although I'd have to say the Fuji 16-55 and thte 50-140 were my always goto's with the system. Good luck and enjoy the Fuji's. Jim
The 55200 is really amazing value for money, the real difference between it and the red badge will be seen for sports/action shooting and as a portrait lens with the f2.8 of the red badge. For some reason however I think you´ll eventually end up with a 100-400 as well.
Amazing tips Mark and as always love to watch your rich content as you put in all your heart to create these. Congratulations to the winners, Toby and Erin
Thankyou for some great tips. Must admit I tend to use the 2 second timer with the telephoto that may explain a lot on some of my images. Thanks Mark. Looking forward to your collaboration with foto tripper.
Hi Mark, Since you switched to the Fujifilm system, what are your current two favorite lenses (referencing back to your somewhat recent Sony favorite two lenses video)? For my recently acquired X-T4 (my first Fujifilm camera) I use the 16-80mm f/4 and 80mm f/2.8 macro. I am thing of getting the 35mm f/2 next. Thank you for the long lens tips. I am still going back and forth on acquiring a telephoto lens.
I am trying to get into this photograqphy itch that I had for many years and I spend my days testing and returning gear. Today I was testing a lens in the city and couldnt get the expected detailed from the lens, and It has been happening a lot. My conclusion is "the lens is awesome, when everything around helps, but when light is weird and im trying to record a seagull at 20m the lens sucks". I am trying to understand stuff and found this video and seeing this video I noticed that I make every single mistake most of those times the picture sucked. Fixes: My phone has a top tier tele and it doesnt weight 300 grams, maybe a 2X tele lens with better glass and a better center of mass would be easier to start and less frustrating? I use self timer with a tripod all the time cause the tripods I tried always wobble for seconds after touching the phone screen. But Why dont I ever use it with handheld shooting?
Wow, thanks so much Mark!!! Some beautiful shots sent into you for that video! Great tips here, I have definitely fallen victim the micro shakes a number of times haha.
What's the longest focal length you use for your Landscape Photography?
300 mm is the longest I carry for landscapes.
300mm, on a crop so 450mm equivalent. Great for picking out distant cliffs and compressing perspective.
I have a 200-600mm but i cant remember if i shoot some landcapes on 600mm.
@@weswheeler3674 Same here! Ever need more reach Wes?
Usually 80mm, cause the XF 16-80 is so convenient. Need to bring out one of the longer lenses more often. Great video as always.
My telephoto lens mistake no. 1: leaving it in my backpack when I have an opportunity to use it...
Wonder which of the two teles you will buy and why. I chose the 55-200: if it is good enough for Andy Mumford it certainly is for me...
I purchased the Sony 70-350 for my mirrorless Sony and I'm still trying to find ways to compose images that are interesting and not just "close-ups" of subjects. Thanks for the tips!
I'm in love with the little plant on your desk. The leaves are very evenly shaped and it almost looks like it's emiting light
I just stumbled upon your channel, and I'd like to thank you. I've been a photographer for over 30 years, your insight, calm demeanor and excellent advice is refreshing and spot on. I did subscribe, and I'm always eager to learn. Have a great day! Steph
An old photographer’s adage from years ago: go to f8 and don’t be late.
I often find wind-induced tripod vibrations - that get transferred to the camera body - are a bigger source of mischief than those associated with telephoto lens cap vibrations. A weight attached to the underside of the tripod works wonders for this situation. On a related note, tripod spikes - as opposed to tripod rubber feet - that firmly anchor the tripod to the ground - also helps when the wind is particularly muscular.
Ok. Not a great solution if you are walk a good amount of distance, but I will bring 2 one gallon jugs of water and a three foot piece of rope. hang the jugs under the rope, this will give +/- 13lbs of weight for grounding
I always use a tripod when shooting landscapes. However, there are situations when a tripod is too cumbersome - when shooting some action scenes or wildlife, for example. When handheld, the old rule of thumb to avoid shake is to set the shutter speed at 1 divided by the focal length; i.e., a 200mm lens handheld should have a shutter speed less than or equal to 1/200 sec. To set this automatically for a zoom telephoto lens on my Nikon D850, I set the mode to PROGRAM, and turn on Auto-ISO. The camera will set the correct shutter speed for whatever focal length, and adjust the aperture and ISO accordingly. I shot an air show last year using this technique, and the results were fantastic!
I always double it on my D850, due to the high resolution of the camera
one solution to the long lens "slow shutter" is to add a lens support, a video camera long plate, with a foot facing up, to cradle the lens, like a trailer yachts' mast staff, when it's folded; it gives the lens the support, but importantly, allows you to shift the Centre of gravity to the balance point, between the lens and camera tripod thread, to where a long lens foot would be situated.
One other tip, esp. for film cameras, MF in particular due to large mirrors, use the M-up mode, to activate the vibrations, let them settle, then fire the shutter, when everything's calmed down.
OR if you have a mirrorless system, use the Electronic shutter, so the curtain motion is in-lieu of the mirror up mode, done before the image is recorded.
Camera hack: I use a plastic zipper seal sandwich bag about half filled with sand, put that one inside a second sandwich bag (for safety's sake)and you can lay that across the top of the camera just before you are ready to fire the shutter. It's a pound or two of extra inertia that helps keep that lens still.
i like this idea. i'm going to try it thanks John!
JohnB Cool idea. I suppose you could use a bean bag if you had it with you.
All solid advice. For those of us using a DSLR the mirror slap can introduce vibration as well. By using the electronic shutter you can avoid that issue.
Having been a Pentax user for just over 40 years I use my 40 year old full frame 135mm lens on my crop sensor camera. Not only does it act like a 200mm prime it is tiny (smaller than most modern 18-55 ) and very light one of my favourite lenses to use... superb in all aspects and all manual lolz.
I just started landscape photography and buying things one by one. I generally watch 3 channels. Marks, Nigel Danson, Andy mumfords. Mark is the best one. Down to earth. Honest opinion. Incredible.
Check out Andy Mumfords comparison of the two lenses. 55-200mm is his choice.
Yeah I saw his video on it which was great.
Sweet spot of a lens can be roughly found using the "largest aperture times two" formula. On my kit lens it's f/7.1, and I tested it just to be sure. The formula was indeed correct.
And switch to back focus button, so that your focus does not change when you finally press the release. Good points, thank you for sharing.
Hi Mark, it’s funny that you had this video when I had all the mistakes you just pointed out. In fact, I was struggling yesterday using a 100-400 lens… but I was able to correct them all but it took some time to have them all cleared out. The other problem the telephoto lens did was doing a pano. I am second guessing the use of the lens by deciding to do a pano, which a 24-105 can easily achieve, without having to stitch as much files.
Thanks to your advice I got both sigma 17-50 2.8F and a 100-400 telephoto lenses for my landscape amateur photography
The opening scene with birds chirping was superb. Nice place. Yr episode.. very well explained. Thanks.
All of these tips will help me slow down and really think about my shot. Switching from wildlife (flying birds) to landscape is sometimes difficult for me. I am still in that frantic state trying to get everything right in that split second. Great tips!!!
Excellent information, Mike. You're videos are always worth watching, thanks.
I've been using the XF 55-200 for a year now, and it's a really good lens! I know the other one is at f/2.8, but f/4.8 at 200mm is still really good, I would never dream of swapping this lens! (Except for the 100-400) The 55-200 is perhaps the most cost effective lens of the Fuji line up. Keep up the good videos Mark!
Yes - I've been thinking the same thing an honestly don't see a big difference between it and the 50-140mm
And rumour suggests Fuji is to release a 70-300 soon ....
Over-zooming: guilty as charged! I've done many times in the past, but now I do a few shots in different focal lengths. I ruined some shots in the past because of over-zooming. When I got home, I'd look at those shots and see the impact of the overall scene was lost in the longest focal length. Now, I have options to pick what best suits me in terms of composition.
I've still not made a decision on which lens to buy. 50-140 or 55-200? Be interesting to find out what you decide on. Maybe do a little comparison video? ? Thanks for all the time you take to share your passion for photography.
Solid tips, Mark. Closely related to the micro-shake tip is wind. No matter how stable your tripod, a steady (or worse, gusting) high wind will wreak havoc on a long Zoom or telephoto. Leaning on the camera to "hold it steady" will make vibrations worse. I speak from recent experimental experience with a 150-600mm zoom.
I stand between the wind and camera in that situation. There's still turbulence but it is much less than direct blast on the camera. A heavy sturdy tripod, or at least sturdy, is tremendously helpful.
@@thomasmaughan4798 in my case I'd have been in the shot. In a steady 30mph wind gusting to 45, it wouldn't have helped anyway. Those were my conditions. Tropical storm had just gone through..
Loved it that Nigel Danson appears on top of your google search. Both of you are my favourite Landscape Photographers on RUclips!
Great advice. Recently hit a creative wall with using my telephoto lens and this has given me some inspiration to get back out. Subscribed!
What an amazing video Mark. Superb tips. Recently i bought 70-300 Fuji lens. I faced all these issues. And upset with the lens and returned to Fuji to check if there is a problem in the lens. I am waiting for their comment. Meanwhile I happen to see this video. Thanks Mark. No where these types of practical tips are available. You hold the viewers hand and take them to new heights in photography. Thanks again. But I have a doubt how to lock the auto focus. Please reply. Do we get the collar for 70-300 lens?
One thing I have found throughout my Landscape experience especially on Fuji lenses that I get sharper images keeping F-stop auto and it always stays around 5.6 - 8. The reason that I am saying is that I have taken F/8 to an entire tour and F-Auto for an entire tour and the Auto images looks more sharper and balanced exposed.
Mark, I always learn at least (at least!) one thing from every video. You're such a great teacher. Might I make a suggestion after reading through the comments? Could you embed the info on your gear (like the tripod) in the video? So many people are asking. Happily anticipating your next vid. Thanks so much!
Hi Mary! Thanks so much - I really appreciate that. Here is the link for the tripod line that I'm using: stetindenphoto.com/collections/global-elite-photographer-series. If you're looking for a new tripod you can use my promo code to save 10% MARKDENNEY2020C10
Hi Mark. Am guilty of not leaving enough room around my subjects. It affects cropping the edges, but also if you wish to frame the image after processing, it might not be possible because we don't leave enough room around the image. Love your vlog. Wish that I could attend one of your classes, but health problems take that option away. So, appreciate all that you present in your vlog's. You are the best teacher on landscape photography out here. Bill.
Thanks so much Bill, very kind of you to say! I hope you begin feeling better soon!
@@MarkDenneyPhoto Thanks Mark, that would be wonderful.
Just got my Canon EF 70-200 and exactly all these mistakes, thx to pointing them out 😋🤙
Bought the Fuji 100-400 during the last sale. Finally got it 2 weeks ago and it’s a winner. I have the 55-200 and while the small size is awesome I like the images from the 100-400 more. Using both with my XT 2. I rented the 100-400 twice so I knew what I was getting myself into.
You can keep your camera in manual mode and select the option AF+MF in the menu. This way the AF is active when the switch is in the M position but you just have to turn your focus ring a little bit for the camera to automatically zoom in your focus point and allow you to focus manually. I find this option to be really convenient (even more for telephoto) so I just switch between modes M (with AF+MF) and C.
I zoomed inn to maximum level to properly focus, on my lens the other week. I was surprised the amount of shake on just a 300mm with almost no wind. Also stuck my tripod on the beach, the delicate waves washed over my shoes, but the effect those waves had on the tripod, the amouint of shake it put on my camera, was astounding. I needed a couple of seconds on the shutter, but it was impossible on just 35mm. I wish I had the clarity in my thoughts to power up the ISO, and not worry so much about the ISO-nastyness. It was a gloomy day anyways.
Great video! The reminder not to over-zoom is a great tip.
I know a lot of you guys are using mirrorless cameras these days, But you forgot to add the Photogrphers that are still using DSLRs. You can use the mirror lockup or live view to reduce camera shake.
Came here to say this. I still shoot DSLR and often use mirror lockup for slow shutter speeds. If you don’t have a remote shutter release to use with the mirror lockup, you can use exposure delay, which will lock the mirror up and wait a predetermined amount of time before releasing the shutter.
Aside from those things, people could also see shutter shock with certain shutter speeds on the really high resolution cameras, even mirrorless, if electronic first curtain shutter isn’t enabled.
Great point - I was thinking the same thing.
On the D810 at 200mm with a low shutter speed, I almost always use Mirror Up. Even with a delayed exposure, the mirror movement will create enough shake to cause blur.
When you shoot using live view, your mirror already is locked up. Mirror lock-up is only useful if you shoot through the viewfinder.
My mistake is not noticing haze on a hot day when zoomed in to a distant mountain .... never sharp!
I like this tripod. Which model is it or do you have a link to share? Would like to buy one! Love the video. The aperture info is on point. Thank you
Not only will a lens hood provide more area on which wind can act to introduce camera shake in general, but since it's the farthest part of the lens, it has the longest moment arm, meaning the force applied to the lens hood will apply more torque and move the camera more than if the same force were applied anywhere else closer to the camera body.
You literally helped me fix a lot of my mistakes...thanks alot. Keep making great content 😃
Very helpful! Thank you for the tips. Also, it's good to see you are using Fuji!
Glad to hear it Frank! Love the Fuji!
Mark always enjoying your videos. I have so much to learn but the journey is fantastic. One thing, as a newer photographer, is many will talk about a lens having a sweet spot in terms of sharpness. Other than taking lots of photos, is there a way to determine my particular lenses sweet spots? Thanks as always
Thanks a lot for yet another enlightening video Mark. Can you clarify the second point regarding using a larger aperture? From a compositional point of view it can already be challenging to deal with the shrinkage of depth of field with increasing focal length (doubling the FL increases the hyperfocal distance by a factor 4). Using a larger aperture on top of that would be even less DOF. How do you deal with that? Are you simply focus stacking much more frequently?
Nice video as always; chances are someone has already said this - but... Going out to 200mm (300mm equiv on the XT4) I found it pretty much essential to use electronic shutter. The shutter shock was enough to just take the edge off the sharpness of my vintage 200mm Fujinon. Took the longest time to figure out what was going on. I don't see it at 135mm (200 ish equiv I guess) only with a sharp lense at very long focal length. Maybe all that glass stuck out infront of the camera induces some sort of reasonant vibration - speculating here...
Amazing video Mark! I just bought a Sony 18-135mm lens for my landscape photography and I love it!
Interesting tip about removing the lens hood, Mark. I suppose this is less critical for handheld telephoto shots. Also about the soft focus: I've noticed that on rare occasions, my camera would miss focus if the focus point was on a brightly lit pinpoint light source (for example, Christmas tree lights). It's happened on two cameras now.
Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed that e-mails from RUclips alerting us to new tutorials have not been coming through of late. I am subscribed, and the "bell" is set to all.
Good tips, Mark! I certainly get home to find soft telephoto shots, these are good to keep in mind...
I heard a piece of advice once: When shooting with telephoto lenses the shutter speed should be AT LEAST 1/focal length. For example at 200mm the shutter speed should be at least 1/200.
(for shooting handheld)
The reciprocal rule. A very old school photography technique. I don't think it holds nearly as true today as it did in the film days. Lenses are SO much sharper these days then they used to be and that extra resolving power of the lens+sensor tend to capture all kinds of micro-shakes. So the rule today seems to be more like 2:1 shutter:FL instead of 1:1. That's why OIS and IBIS has become such desirable features because they counteract these sharp camera and lenses tendency to pick up any sort of camera shake.
reciprocal rule doesnt work with fuji and unstabilized lenses. needs to be faster.
Love your videos mark! I’ve learned so much from you!! Keep it up!
Thanks so much Owen!
A big thank you from Seattle. Fantastic video 📸👍!
I’m loving seeing the Fuji images and equipment. I’m looking at going with the Fuji x-T4 but now that the X-t3 has dropped I’m wondering if IBS and other updates is worth the extra $700 or so for pure landscape photography.
I'm still using the X-T3 for stills and using the X-T4 for video. I'm always on a tripod so I don't really need IBIS.
Mark Denney thanks! I currently don’t do much video but have aspirations to do some b-roll type images just for things like Instagram reels, etc. that’s where I thought the ibs might be worth it. Love your channel!
Many thanks Paul (& dear Mark as usual for sharing your Art work). When no tripod quite simple: OIS lenses on my XT3, other ones (ultimate primes or the perfect 16-55) on my XT4. Greetings 🇨🇭
@@MarkDenneyPhoto Why not reverse that? IBIS on the X-T4 is very nice and useful. Lets you leave the tripod at home sometimes.
Thomas Heaton is doing the same as Mark Denny Paul. XT3 for some of his photos and XT4 for video. I'm not a Fuji user but it seems that the pros are going that way.
You are just so helpful. Thank you!
Number 4 was best help! Thanks!!
I really hope you will make a video about the tele-comparison! I found that from F8 and onwards, I could not tell a difference between the two. The 50-140 was crisper (more contrast) and maybe a bit sharper from 2.8 to F8.
Excellent, some really useful tips in this video. Mark, I had the XC 50-230 (an under-rated lens IMHO) until yesterday, when I broke it. Camera fell off the tripod. Camera fine, lens not so much! (The mount broke). Anyway, I’m thinking it’s an opportunity to upgrade and I’ve been looking at the 55-200 and the 50-140. One thing the 50-140 has that the 55-200 doesn’t is weather-sealing. Do you have any views on the importance of this in your experience? (My work is mostly coastal, astro and desert). Thanks.
Well, i’d surely go for the 55-200mm. I owned both, and also the 50-230mm, which i didn’t even dislike, it was a supersharp piece of plastic. The 55-200 is exactly right.
I use telephoto more and more. U maybe forgot to mention that fujifilm advices to keep the OIS on using a tripod too, the camera detects this. Most camera’s however are not suited for keeping it on. I use the canon 70-300mm L on my sony a7riii, and the 55-200mm on my fuji xt3.
Great vid mark..! 👌🏼
Good rule I learned years ago that I follow is to always keep the shutter speed higher than the focal length of the lens when you're not using a tripod. This will help reduce or eliminate camera shake problems. So if you're using a 300mm lens, shoot at 1/300th or faster.
Great timing - I've just taken delivery today of a Fuji 55-200 (which I suspect you'll go for)!! Really extremely useful "real world" tips - I'm looking forward to put them into practice - many thanks for a great video!!
Glad you enjoyed it Tony! The 55-200 is great👍
Hi Mark, would you be able to let me know what L bracket you have on your X-T3 please? Great video by the way 👍🏻
Thanks Richard! It’s from Really Right Stuff
Another great practical tutorial. Thank you. Tom UK
Really nice intro Mark!
Thanks man - really appreciate that!!
Completely agree. Those 4 tips are absolutely true as I came to apply them over the last year.
Totally! Thanks for checking out the Patrick!
Great advice!! Fuji is a great camera the positive is the pixel color arrangement looks better for some reason, so good choice.
Thanks so much - I'm glad you think so!
Use the Fuji app on your phone and Electronic Shutter for shooting. Zero shake
I wonder which lens you will pick - the 55-200 or the 50-140? I chose for the 55-200 for portability, but I have never come to terms with the zoom creep (while walking around to compose). Lack of WR and build quality are not on par with the 16-55, so it is more a casual shooter lens. In terms of IQ I do not think, that you will not see much of a difference as the 50-140 seems to be overhyped (see Dustin Abbotts latest review).
Hi Mark,
Is it advisable to use "Electronic shutter" instead "Mechanical shutter" to avoid micro Shake?
Thank you!
Thanks for this. Great information that I can see pertains to my photography issues!
Thanks for checking it out Richard!
Nice video. I would like to hear more about focus, especially at night, either through the lens or Live View, I am having difficulties.Also, in this video what tripod and head, mount that you are using. I have a Manfroto and am not happy. I would like an all around head etc, that can be used on a tracker for astrophotography as well.
Great video mark - I’ve fallen victim of the soft focus a couple times. Out of curiosity what l-bracket do you have for the Fuji (xt4?) I saw in the video?
Thanks Damien! It’s from Really Right Stuff👍
I only have 2 lens, the 18-55 and the 55-200. Next one will be a wide one but these two can accomplish almost everything and really sharp
Thanks, that was very helpful. I also have the 55-200 fuji lens & am very pleased with the results. I don’t use the tripod often because of the inconvenience & many venues forbid them or make impractical, but I do compensate by bracing myself & using a high iso - up to 1000 or 1600 when shooting wildlife. btw how would I submit photos for these prizes? Great video!
Love the videos. I can’t help but hear Jeff Goldblum in your voice!!
Very useful Mark. I've made a point recently of not worrying about going up to ISO400 - with modern cameras I think it's really hard to tell the difference - all but impossible at 'normal' image sizes in my experience. Just got a camera that has focus peaking on it so thanks for that tip particularly.
Glad to hear the video was helpful Steve!
Excellent video that will undoubtedly help improve my results. You must have been peaking at my telephoto images, shaking your head and thinking this poor guy needs some help!
Haha! Glad you enjoyed it Jeff!
Great timing on this vid, as I have been thinking of doing something other than wide angle. Mentally planning some sunsets from a high up hiking point, and the possibility of zooming in on spots. Ill let ya know if it works out.
For sure - keep me posted!
I like my Canon 70-300 IS . I generally shoot in f/8-f/11 range and try to avoid shooting at the extreme ends of the zoom range .
I used to suffer from Canon "L" lens envy , but I have found my current setup more than satisfactory , and it is becoming harder for me to justify the significant expense of one of Canons big white lumps .
I have the 55-200 and would not trade it for anything. I love it in my opinion you can't go wrong with it.
Yeah I'm pretty certain that's the one I'm going with.
Mark, do you print your on photos or do you send them to a service? example Shutterfly. My home printer has died and I am at a crossroads to send out or replace. Appreciate your comments.
Lately have been experimenting with 300 vs 200 for landscape. All the tips you gave on what not to do were great but the one that resonated the most was on aperture - using the sweet spot - can’t wait to try this out soon!
Awesome to hear you were able to get some helpful info out this week's video Jackie! Always my top priority!!
The B roll and ambient footage is looking really nice!
Thanks so much!
Great video! Bought a Tamron 70-200mm long ago and had a hard time learning how to better use it. I made (and sometimes still make) all those mistakes sometimes in random order 🙈
Practical advice, I learned #3, it hasn't flashed me so far. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Glad to do it and thanks for checking out the video!
Mark, the 50-140 is a great lens. Yes a little heavier but it is extendable as well with the 1.4 teleconverter. The lower priced lens is not. This could actually save you pounds and dollars going forwards. Interesting that you are moving from Sony to Fuji and I am moving from Fuji back to Nikon as I can use my existing Nikon lenses as well with my Z7 as well as my older D810. As I go forward, I'll be slowly replacing with the newer and smaller S lenses. Your 10-24 and the 50-140 are super lenses although I'd have to say the Fuji 16-55 and thte 50-140 were my always goto's with the system. Good luck and enjoy the Fuji's. Jim
Many thanks Jim and I appreciate the info as well👍
OMG, had that Sony Walkman back in the day. Great for beach time!
Atavistic staging prop. Brings the old guys into the game
Super helpful mate. The autofocus one especially.
The 55200 is really amazing value for money, the real difference between it and the red badge will be seen for sports/action shooting and as a portrait lens with the f2.8 of the red badge. For some reason however I think you´ll eventually end up with a 100-400 as well.
Once again Mr. Denney.... well taught
Thanks Jack!
Very helpful tips and a great video. 🤠
Thanks Richard!
Time to go play around with my new lens!
I use my XF100-400 with 1.4X teleconverter on my X-T3 at times when I’m trying to shoot cliffs. Btw, I absolutely love my XF55-200.
Clean, clear and best tips as always Sir
Thank you!
Amazing tips Mark and as always love to watch your rich content as you put in all your heart to create these. Congratulations to the winners, Toby and Erin
Many thanks Anuja!
So friggin true...what he just said, thanks Mark
Thankyou for some great tips. Must admit I tend to use the 2 second timer with the telephoto that may explain a lot on some of my images. Thanks Mark. Looking forward to your collaboration with foto tripper.
Thanks so much Alex! I'm looking forward to it as well!
Hi Mark,
Since you switched to the Fujifilm system, what are your current two favorite lenses (referencing back to your somewhat recent Sony favorite two lenses video)? For my recently acquired X-T4 (my first Fujifilm camera) I use the 16-80mm f/4 and 80mm f/2.8 macro. I am thing of getting the 35mm f/2 next. Thank you for the long lens tips. I am still going back and forth on acquiring a telephoto lens.
Right now it would be the 10-24 and the 55-200, both are fantastic!
I am trying to get into this photograqphy itch that I had for many years and I spend my days testing and returning gear. Today I was testing a lens in the city and couldnt get the expected detailed from the lens, and It has been happening a lot.
My conclusion is "the lens is awesome, when everything around helps, but when light is weird and im trying to record a seagull at 20m the lens sucks". I am trying to understand stuff and found this video and seeing this video I noticed that I make every single mistake most of those times the picture sucked.
Fixes:
My phone has a top tier tele and it doesnt weight 300 grams, maybe a 2X tele lens with better glass and a better center of mass would be easier to start and less frustrating?
I use self timer with a tripod all the time cause the tripods I tried always wobble for seconds after touching the phone screen. But Why dont I ever use it with handheld shooting?
fantastic info! love using tele w/landscapes! 💪🏼💪🏼
Wow, thanks so much Mark!!! Some beautiful shots sent into you for that video! Great tips here, I have definitely fallen victim the micro shakes a number of times haha.
Thanks a million Toby and congrats on the win!