Trying to FIX a Nintendo Switch with Numerous Faults
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- Hi, this 'trying to fix' video shows me attempting to repair a Nintendo Switch with numerous faults. I purchased it for £55.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.
Awesome fix Vince! You completed some really difficult repairs on this. So fun watching someone else fix these too!
For protecting that connector there's several things that I've done...1) I've used a small piece of metal (the shielding from a original PS4 HDMI encoder chip) and that worked pretty well. 2) I've use kapton tape then put a thermal pad over it then taped it down. That worked ok. 3) I've just ordered some heat protective putty that I'm going to try when it gets here.
Also, It may have some loose pins on the usb c port that's causing it to not show on the dock...I've seen several of those.
Now you see why I don't use much flux when I do these...I like using lots of flux but as soon as it gets under the kaptop tape the tape lifts.
Thanks Steve, I thought you might have some good advice for me :-) Cheers for the tips. When it arrives let me know if the heat putty works as that would be the easiest. So when you fit a replacement USB-C port are they brand new or do they look used before as I bought 4 from eBay and they look used. I was wondering if you had to do work to your ones to make sure the pins are all straight and clean before fitting them. I watched your video on it a while back but the hidden row of contacts makes me nervous to try it myself :-)
I've bought both used and new. The new are nice because they're new but the plastic melts easier. The used have been used but the plastic doesn't melt as easy...I'm not sure which I like best!
Yes, I always make sure all the pins are straight...I also tin the pads and tin the pads on the board with fresh solder. The hidden row of pins can be a pain.
@@Tronicsfix Thanks Steve, great so the used ones might be OK for me then. I might attempt it one day :-)
I fix these day in day out, the dock problem is most definitely a loose pin on the USB-C, also dial the heat and air back a little and try and angle the air flow low on the board, the hidden row of pins should then flow and should then just pop off..
Hey Karl! Mind if I ask you a few questions (since you're an expert on these!):
1) I've had some that show that they are charging at .46A but there is no display. I've tried replacing all of the common chips but still no display. Any tips?
2) Any chance you've fixed the blue screen of death? I've got two that have that and haven't started messing with them yet but have a feeling they might be tough to fix.
Thanks in advance!
Nice work mate!
Thanks Elliot :-)
Lol nice BBQ ILL SAY
Next time try to get chips out at 350 and no 480
vince has the patience and optimism of a saint
The problem is that you kept the board inside the housing. You should always remove the board before doing any jobs with the rework gun. But a really nice fix!
This
And by doing this you are forced to remove all the power sources including battery, keep that in mind because it might confuse your meter when you are looking for shorts. This is why the cip did not show to be shorted after removal.
Yes always remove boards from unnecessary components such as screens , housing, battery and any other connector or ribbon cables attach before soldering or reworking a board this is to prevent damage as well as makes it easier to work on the board
Amateur move. I expected more from his calibre. Who uses heatgun without protecting other vulnerable components. Taking the board out of the plastic casing. Cover connectors with foil.
@@don4techyyou do realize this is a 5 year old video & Vince has gotten SUBSTANTIALLY better at repairs since right?
The switch killer? Almost every switch you fixed you actually made it work.
Also, don't get discouraged Vince. I know you haven't had a lot of good luck with these. The videos are still informational, and entertaining to watch. You're doing a good job, you just need some more specialized tools for such a specialized job such as removing small ICs from a crowded PCB. You'll get there eventually, and all of your subscribers are here to support you and keep telling you that even if you fail, you still learn something from the experience and you always try to do a better job the next time which is so encouraging to watch. Most people would have never attempted another Switch after the first one failed like it did but you've kept at it. Please don't let this experience keep you from attempting more switches in the future. Maybe Steve from Tronix Fix could give you some tips as well. You guys have a good rapport maybe he's a good resource to skype with and get some help or advice?
Have a great Sunday Vince and I look forward to the next video!
Thanks mate, lovely words of encouragement. Take care :-)
Also try and add a bit of leaded solder to the joints on the chip before using the hot air, this will reduce the heat required to lift the chip. The solder on the board is unleaded and has a higher melting temperature, by adding the leaded it will reduce it. This will make it a lot easier.
Seeing a.n.other repair guy absolute flood the chip with solder.
This video actually made me feel nostalgic. All the melting, SMD parts just randomly disappearing, hard time adjusting airflow/heat etc. It took me back to when I also had problems with this and I want to say thank you. I'm not going to point out things because other people has already helped you but great job! Even if it did get a little messy it was a really great job and fun to watch you explore the tools and options! Keep going and you'll become a master in no-time!
I’m rewatching the older stuff. You’ve come a long way fella. I couldn’t help but laugh again when you melted it. I think it’s been board out of everything for hot air ever since this episode.
Very informative. It takes a strong individual to show their mistakes along with the triumphs so others can learn.
Why the temp so high? You need to heat up the chip..... Not send it to hell.
You need to do it fast 400C hot air != the part is 400C hot, the solder melts much before that. If you use ~300C its gonna take a long time...
Typically solder can melt at 370 F(188 C). He said that he set temps to 400 or max. I hope this is a cheap Chinese heat gun and is in Fahrenheit, but eaither way it's to high.
@@hasnomoney1800 Well, since Kapton tape withstands up to 400ºC, hot air beyond that temp sounds like crazy. Also, flux should help unsoldering components faster without heat damage. So I think it might be better going slower but safer, probably at 188 - 200 ºC just like you said. But like Vince explains, he is not a pro, so he learns that way.
@@hasnomoney1800 BTW, do you know if flux affects Kapton tape properties (e.g. melting temperature)? I have no idea, I have never done this kinds of things, I just enjoy watching and learning.
Temperature good 350 400c but so much air can burn others components or remove
Brilliant! I think we stood up and cheered when it turned on. With you every step of the way, compelling viewing!
I would have lost my mind with all that Kapton tape melting and shrinking. I very much appreciate your perseverance in this challenging scenario. Bravo.
It's an old video I know, but going back to then, and seeing your work now really shows how much you have improved !
Little tip here. I use standard aluminium foil (3 layers) to wrap all PCB. Then i cut area around the chip using scalpel to see the chip. Window should be a bit larger. Then i tape foil aroud the chip with the capton tape. This way you wont melt anything else. Also 390 Celsius is too high, i use temperature around 340 and about 50 pct air flow to prevent other parts from moving.
Great suggestion. I've found that the foil not only reduces the heat even further but also seems to give a little bit of stability to the tape to reduce peeling and curling at the edges...just use caution with the foil on devices with large capacitors as you can get a shocking surprise if you don't make sure the device is unplugged and fully discharged of any residual voltage.
Great advice, it's great to hear what other's do
400C is ok, never got any problems with that. I think its better to do it on higher temp settings. If you do it fast the component never gonna reach 350C.
I know its been a year but I never get tired of watching these. One thing I've actually discovered by accident with these types of small connectors is that if you apply the hot air from underneath the the joycon connector you'll be able to get the connector off more easily in the unfortunate event that it does get melted. Then all you'll need to do is drag solder the new connector pins to the board. Much like the PS4 HDMI connector replacements except the board here looks to be thinner so you'll likely have an easier job doing it this way. not just with the joycon connector but also the usb and possibly the screen connector as well to get them off the board
Good job Vince! Your 'can do' attitude is amazing to watch and is very contagious! Please keep these videos coming! . :) I do this these sort of repairs at work and I use about 400C at half speed air with no problems, but you probably don't want to go much higher temp than that (390 - 410). Lower temps means you have to stay on target longer (could be bad) and going too hot can damage other parts of the board. A quick 'in and out' is the way to go. I also think you were initially using too much flux which transferred hot flux to other areas of the board which might have helped melt those plastic parts. You'll get the hang of how much flux is enough to keep the part fluxed without it spreading all over the place. I think you got some good advice from TronicsFix regarding better heat shielding to those delicate parts. Overall you did a great job for not having had much experience. You get good at this sort of thing by learning from others but also by doing it yourself and making mistakes. It's almost an art form but it can be mastered by anyone who sticks with it (it can be frustrating at first!).
Great advice and genuinely encouraging.
For all the bad decisions you make you surprise me with your tenacity and that's something I wish I had more of. Great job! I look forward to your future.
Well done Vince.. love how excited you got when you realised the light wasn't plugged in 👍👍👍
When using heat always remove the board to work on and you need to order some spare boards to practice on. It took me a while to learn the heat to air ratio with practice and patience you’ll be a superstar. Enjoy ya videos and it’s good to see you going strength to strength 👍
Vince, you are too impatient. RoHS solder needs just 300 degree Celsius. And please, use the plyers only for removing the old chip only and for placing the new one once. Surface tension definitely will do the rest unless your air flow is low enough to not blow away the components.The direction of the air flow is very important! Always away from sensitive components. If the camera is in the way, place the camera different, not the heat nozzle. If you need to use the needle plyers rest your hand on the table and only use the finger tips for pinpointing.
@@bbbbbb1243 2+2=4
Come on guys XD, He trying to protect his You tuber, Poor Brendon and is true what Splinter TMNT saying ( is good to receive criticism because sometimes actually make you better and not take nothing too personal). Sorry about my grammar not the best. XD
I agree he needs a tilted nozzle and I would remove any unleaded solder and only use leaded.
Hi Vince, a lot of the other comments note a few things done wrong so I'm not going to echo what they say. Something additional I noticed is there was another small resistor around the first chip you changed that must have been blown away that you never replaced. Not sure what issues it may cause but could be worth a look.
Edit: Also great work getting to the point you did! A lot of people might throw in the towel after making a few mistakes but you stuck with it and ended with something that is now "useable".
I was cringing this whole video because no amperage equals a bad charging IC chip. And it's not corrosion on the chips. These chips burn out easily on the Switches. You finally figured it out though. Great job. It's how you learn though. Love your videos Vince! Keep up the great content.
Wow! I’ve never been so incredibly nervous and happy seeing a fix it video as i was on 1:16:42 GREAT work Vince!
Have you ever worked with "low melting solder"? They are expensive but really useful.
Also, you should definitely not slide your multimeter probes across pins while there's power running in the system. You just caused a short which can damage chips.
Electronics tech chiming in, the first 30 mins was painful to watch. The initial components that were "failures" may have actually been resistors. Would need to look at the codes but you had 0402 and 0603's present. Second, for the chip that you heat gunned, flux and fine solder braid would do the trick. Alternative would be a solder station with a chip puller setup of thermal tweezers. If you needed to go destructive removal, would have advised very fine nipps.
Also, future note:. Anyone working on anything battery powered, unplug the battery before doing any work on it, let alone soldering. You can cause damage to the battery.
Lol idiot.... 0805.......... ...and they are caps foooo. If you gonna try to sound educated at least be.... I would start with IPC certs...
Watching your progress is pretty inspiring. Not enough for me to buy a faulty console myself off of Ebay but I would definitely pick up faulty consoles in my local area from like Facebook or something. 2 hours was pretty long video but it was still entertaining enough.
Always enjoy a switch fix-it video, doing great Vince!
Previous comment about the aluminium foil is a good one. I do that myself to be honest. Aluminium foil is great at taking the heat away from vital components. The solder on those boards will absorb the heat for a while. The trick is, lower fan speed, closer distance to the chip, longer time. Like 5-10 minutes. You could use something that is applying upwards pressure on the chip itself so as soon as it's ready to come off it'll just pop off, then turn off the heat. Try getting some kind of stand or vertical clamp that you can attach the heat gun to so it keeps an even steady application of heat.
I remember watching this Video awhile back and YT decided to recommend it to me again so thought I’d give it another watch, Surprised I didn’t comment on it the first time around, I remember thinking that what you did must have been incredibly difficult and fair play to you for not losing your cool and reminded me of the British Slogan: “Keep calm & Carry on!” Things do get to me at times when Soldering especially when components won’t come off boards as easy as they do for other people but hopefully that will change soon after watching lots of Videos from yours & other channels, We can but hope as they say and fair play for continuing to do what you did after the thermal meltdown Vince!
Take the boards out to work on them! No more melting the cases or worrying about the lcd.
Side note: these devices are a lot more durable than I thought lol this thing was put through hell...literally
ANDDD... I’m super proud of you Vince!! This one was definitely one that most people (even pros) would have tossed in the bin after getting one good look at the inside. It may not have turned out perfect but IT WORKS!! Congratulations my friend!
Next point that may help you with these dodgy type places is Chip Quix solder. You should have cleaned the pins and then tinned with lead free. to reduce your melting point. Other method is make a square of copper wire and wind ends onto a soldering iron. the square heats all the pins of the chip at the same time
A great video, painful to watch in a few places but you know what, it's a learning thing! Yes some mistakes were made but it's all part of the learning process. Tinfoil is your friend for helping keep heat away from plastic parts (covered also with kapton tape), and removing the board from the case is a must - but you know that now =D
Sometimes the best lessons are the most painful! I would also be super careful using hot air near any li-ion battery. I know it was discharged but a little too much heat and you could get a runaway battery.
Regards your comment about the kapton tape, I think the tape was a good idea, but the plastic parts need more shielding (foil), and airflow as you say is key too. The big problem with modern boards like this is the number of layers (probably 6 layer on this?), meaning it can absorb a LOT of heat, so too much airflow and not enough protection on plastic bits can spell disaster. Hats off for throwing yourself into this. In theory you could source replacement connectors for those that are damaged, so it's not a write off at all.
Haha, yeah I couldn't believe the damage I did and how widespread it was when I uncovered all the tape. I wanted to get away with not undoing the screen ribbon cable connector as I have had problems with them in the past but next time I will take the board out and then the heat will be away from the battery as well. I will break out the tin foil in future :-) I might revisit this in the future with the USB-C port to see if the docking can be fixed. I still don't understand how anyone can replace those small plastic connectors because using a donor board will melt them on removal!!!! Please don't give up on your channel Chris - Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery - you are helping many people even if you are not always getting credit for it :-)
@@Mymatevince For the plastic connectors you heat from underneath about 350c-365c and nudge them off. You solder them back on by hand one pin at a time. Preheat the board you are soldering it on to from underneath from time to time, it makes the solder flow onto the pins/pads much easier. Use lots of flux. Good luck!
@@derekmayo9948 Thanks Derek :-)
One day i spilled my tea and a lipo battery on my desk degassed in seconds(i don't know how) :D So yes, be very carefully with the batteries.
@@derekmayo9948 Good advice! I wonder if anyone knows exactly what types these melted connectors are - I am guessing they are industry standard. Maybe we could research these and see if Digikey or RS Online sell something that will fit. It would be fanastic if we could source them and maybe at some point Vince could restore this board back to pristine condition! I think it would be useful in any case. Vince, next time you are in a switch, take some super close photos of them and if you can, measure their physical size (width if possible) - guessing not much, like 4mm or something lol.
As for more control with the hot air what I've found to work is appropriate sized nozzle (Yours seemed a touch too large) and lots of flux. With boards that have a large thermal capacity, preheating and large airflow help. Also try aluminium tape, should be found at hardware stores
Thumbs up for keeping things like this ending up in e-waste
This was great. You did so much to get it working and never gave up on it. Water damage is really the worst to work with.
Ironically, the reason it all melted was the kapton tape. It is supposed to be heat resistant. But, around the chip it came off the board and the heat from the gun managed to get under it so the kapton tape acted like a funnel and directed the heat all the way beneath it. And because it is kapton tape, it kept almost all of that heat beneath the tape.
Also, when soldering chips, to make sure that there are no improper connections beneath them, apply heat until the solder melts and the chip bounces into place, remove the heat for a couple of seconds so it hardens, press on it a bit with some tweezers and apply heat again until the solder melts and the chip goes down more and the excess is pushed out the sides. Then just clean the blobs and you're good.
I am impressed with your hard work. You are my favorite electronic enthusiast. Keep it up
RCM works a lot like what you experienced; the console will appear as though it's off (and won't accept charge, or will only trickle charge extremely slowly) until it's plugged into a PC and you can then see a new device pop up in Device Manager. As long as the console is stuck in RCM nothing will show up on screen until you send a payload to it with TegraRCMSmash or an Android app.
But as far as I know, the jig has to be used on the right rail, the left rail doesn't have the right pin. If the console is already stuck in RCM then a jig isn't needed though.
Congratulations on a mostly successful repair, about midway through I was honestly doubting that you'd ever get it to display anything on screen.
Kapton tape is actually not only heat resistance but generally it's temperature resistant. They also use it in cold environments like space and in cryogenic research. I believe the temp range is −269 to +400 °C. It's one of DuPont's many inventions and one I find fascinating. I know, nerd...but material science is just as interesting to me as why things are broken.
As for the fail...take it as a learning experience. I've yet to attempt those sorts of chip repairs myself so you won't hear any peanut gallery comments from me. I enjoyed the video. Cheers.
28:07 maybe lower fan but set temp to 400c 🤷♂️. I still liked the video because I been there before turning my boards into flambe' 🔥. 👍
Haha :-) Who doesn't like flambé. Great news on hitting 500K, your latest video installing the speaker cables was a real winner man :-)
@@Mymatevince thanks bro, you'll hit 500k this year I'm sure. Love the channel.
@@TampaTec Thanks Paul, that means a lot to me. Thank you :-)
LOL
I'd suggest you turn the air station temp down to 350°C and the airflow to minimum. It'll save you much trouble as you won't burn the flux and kapton tape, and reduce the risk of damaging or displacing other components and stuff... Also, the middle pad on the chip may just be for heat dispersal and may not be grounded. Love your videos, keep it up!
The bit with the faulty joycon connector... slot the cable in the best it will... then use blue tack to hold it! Tips crazy but works... I did it on a wii u joystick connector about 7 years ago... and it still working now in dec 2022 !!
I was fixing a ton of switches lately and find out one trick with replacing a BQ24193 chip and connectors near by, because this is a very small part of the PCB it can't dissipate heat that fast and you can heat it up from other side, easy chip replacement and 0 damage to the board elements.... and use aluminum foil that is way better than kapton tape that melts and dangerous for your health! I hope this trick will help you ;-)
Really awesome you got to try this! Try to use aluminum tape and stick it to the board so the hot air can't blast plastic connectors, and never fear about blasting capacitors, coils or resistors, or moving them out of place. You can even take them out to give you some space.
Never surrender. Ask your friends for an old laptop or computer and practice on those. Once you got everything right, a Nintendo switch will be butter.
You donut not plugging the backlight in! But well done for fixing what looked like something that was destined for the bin, I actually got excited too when it came on lol. Top video Vince!
As well as using kapton tape , try putting some coins over important components before taping. This will act as a heat sink and help protect it. Also try foil tape over the top of the kapton tape, this helps as well keeping the heat away.
Thanks for the tips :-)
Damn that look so difficult. I would have burnt my house down if I tried that.
man even the tape is melting !!! Botched it completely! But in good spirits, good attitude. The job itself is hard enough man; you have to understand the power of giving yourself the best working setup possible. TAKE IT OFF the enclosure, setup nicely, make space for yourself etc. Its about winning those mental blockages and trying to take shortcuts that arent worth it
Finally, another "Trying to FIX" video which is Switch-related!
1:16:40 .. Not sure who gets more excited when you fix something: you or me :)
Haha, thanks man :-)
Same here!
Yeah I know! I was like "Alright dude!!" after he plugged that backlight in
When working with plastics the easiest way is to heat from under the board ...loads of flux and when it's wet will glide into the pads. Great video btw!
you should have heard me shout when the screen came on.
its like a video on how not to do things, but kudos for not giving up and it was worth it in the end
21:05 Center pad is substrate/heatsink, GND is on another pin around. Substrate usually hasn't direct connect to actual power GND pin.
You did good with this one Vince life's all about learning and you'll get better over time. Keep up the good work you're doing good you'll always have my support. Try to relax and take it easy if you mess it up it's ok you can always try again, with a different Switch on a different day.
An absolute roller coaster of emotions.
I found your channel because of Steve or Tronicsfix. He makes this look so easy. I would be in the same boat as you. You are doing a great job 😊😊
The main problem with your reflow tecnique.
-Remove the board from the case.
-The apply a little solder to the pads
-Place the chip over the solder and apply some flux.
-Let the heat do the rest. 300° and very low flow to prevent send flying any neighboring component.
... or you can use some solder paste to reflow chip.
aluminum tape works great to shielding too, like make it like a fin up in front of the compnents you want to protect, itll suck that heat up and out the thin piece of alumiinum tape
"apart from all the burning... Its not shorting" 😆😆😆
Your videos are just the best.... 👍
Next time try leaded solder and lower temp (like 380 celcius) because the leaded solder doesn't need a really high temp like the lead free solder and for people that don't know gel Flux is a life saver 👍
P.s. For the plastic connectors are easy to fix but just need more attention and the resistors pre heat the sides with a iron to warm it up faster with hot air
When i was in the jewellery repair trade there was a a heat protective paste we used to protect delecate parts like opals, pearls and cameos we could put the paste on our finger and apply the soldering flame to it and it wouldent feel hot.
Look up jewelery heat protective paste.
Thanks for the tip Ian :-)
Put more videos ..these are the best videos i have not seen in along time
awesome video vince and thanks to your description of if its broken your not loosing anything iv given this thought line a try and fixed my ps4 which kept ejecting an easy fix but first one for me so thanks bud
Excellent fix vince! Also only use kapton if you really really need too on a job like that. Simply because if you put too much heat as it melts and crinkles it can shrink and pull other smd components with it, not to mention hinder your view of what else is melting. Use some kitchen foil or something like that (especially for the plastic connectors). I also preheat the area with a hair drier (heat gun occasionally) too as it makes the final heating and or soldering iron more effective.
As always great repair video, you really did well considering the space you had to work with! A learning curve, we all make mistakes! Follow up video please! :)
Dude, you have supernatural persistence.
Love your videos, Vince. Love from Brazil!
Love your videos man, I really enjoy watching you repairing stuff, keep up the good work! You're an electronic butcher
good job that patience
Everybody hide your Switch's, Vince is coming.... lol
Just came across this video again, learned so much since this switch from watching you and tronicsfix, repaired multiple switches since then. Wish I had spent a bit more time on this one back then 😅
Hello Vince. Suggest that you also use aluminium tape on top of or under the kapton tape to supplement the hot air heat shielding. You should be able to reuse the aluminium tape several times if this metal tape is placed under the kapton tape.
Don't get discouraged as only way you learn. I destroyed a few iPhone board early on. Advise I can give you is get a Quick 861DW hot air station. It is the best for the money and don't have to have it at 480 and 350 will be enough. It just transfer heat better as do those chips in a few seconds and don't melt anything in the process. Always remove the board.
Great JOB!! I've no doubt that you will be able to come back and get those Switches to dock. Can't wait for those vids to come out!
New subscriber here, just found your channel recently, it was in my "recommended" and I have to say that I've been watching your videos non stop ever since, I've watched all the switch videos you've uploaded, the psp ones, the old toys fix and a few other ones 😊 awesome work on every one of them, and when you're not able to fix it I don't see it as a fail but as a help to fixing the next one, keep up the great work
one tipp:
solder plastic parts (if possible) always from the other side.
i repaired tausends of phones, laptops and many devices when i had my repair shop.
and i soldered micro usb connectors, display connectors and everything fine and plastic, always from the backside.
this way plastic will not melt, its perfectly soldered and looks like factory soldered.
belive me, if you have no parts which is in the way on the back side, heat from the backside and look when the connector positions itself on the top side.
its easy when you know how.
Great job Vince ! This looked doubtful at first but your perseverance paid off big style :o) !!!
Vince mate, always re-solder ic pad tracks b4 re-soldering ic.
Just an fyi on dock connection. It is most likely the usb port itself. The 2nd row of pins would be responsible for dock connection.
The 2nd row is very difficult to solder as you have to rely on reflow heat alone and having the board stable while properly aligning to allow wicking to do the work for you.
This repair should really be done with a reflow machine, but can be done with a reflow wand, patience and determination.
Waiting on a part shipment from CH, but i may do a video on it once they arrive.
Ultimately... You did good, technique and protocols to prevent added work from self inflicted damage can use some improvement, but that comes from experience. Keep soldering.
Hey Vince, I once did replace a plastic connector in a Nintendo DS by heating te opposite side of the PCB. Of course there can't be any components onto the other side of the PCB. This could possibly also work for replacing the usb connector.
I admire your patience in repairing these things.
Bluetack over the connector should give you more control of shielding. Also very useful for holding pesky fine components down.
Nicely done !
I think the safe way is always disconnect power first, then examine the chip with a good look. clean up corrosions first if any. check shorts, give the chip a float (just use flux and melt the solder without removing the chips), recheck shorts, connect power have a look if no more shorts. I would never connect power and try to power up before I have a good look and examination first. BTW, you want to do the melting fast, so high temp, low air flow. usually 230 Celsius should be plenty heat. heat the component evenly first, then concentrate on the chip. minimal tape to isolate fragile component, no tape on tiny resistors and capacitors. try not to heat coil, if will melt the insulator.
A+++ for perseverance Sir!
I've been working on a 3ds that was found buried in mud. It's amazing sometimes that these things can be revived with a bit of time and effort.
Your reaction when you found out it works is amazing!
Awesome work! Its quite a great feeling to troubleshoot and fix something. Specially something that someone else has tried and failed at.
So much air and temperature can burn cables or other components, be careful and the worst things are when other components move like capacitors, resistors or fuse. Men like you're going to burn the chip after the replacement, but do not worry, this is an experience
When removing chips from a board it's better to do it without the tape. That tape creates a chamber where the heat is kept and starts melting everything. You can redirect better the heat by applying it directly to the board and watching how everything reacts.
Another thing is when placing a new chip, you can apply a little bit of solder on the pads with the soldering iron beforehand, once you place the chip, the solder should put the chip right into place without issue, word of an electronic engineer 😁
the absolute joy when that screen came on was bliss! Incredible fix considering all the damage the switch had before and after the video started lol
Air is fun, but do not forget your trusty soldering iron - for everything but QFNs it is much faster and safer. And do not forget your air gun - should you haven't lost 'em ;) - has a set of nozzles for various IC sizes. Also consider a soldering blowtorch with a catalytic nozzle as it is (also according to actual documents) a much better choice compared to electric heaters. That is, it doesn't blow parts away (as the airflow is less harsh there) and is much more consistent in terms of temperature.
Great video Vince. Really pleased to see it working. I wonder if the kapton tape was causing heat to get trapped. As you were blowing hot air into the hole it will have been going under the kapton tape and getting trapped. Intensifying the heat on the board rather than protecting it.
You kept me at the edge of my seat the whole time, it was awesome and thrilling at the end.
All that I can say is that maybe you need a little bit more practice with the soldering / desoldering with the airflow station, you need to lose the fear of the machine (baby steps)
Thanks for the awesome video!
Greetings from México
Well done dear Vince.
Thank you :-)
I think using that tape done more damage than good. because all the heat went underneath the tape and it just circles all around the board but what do I know, I just like watching you fix them.
Well done Vince i thought it was just going to be spares. Just goes to show just keep at it. Was smiling to my self when it come on lol
Thanks mate, it was such a relief when it finally lit up :-)
you can use aluminium foil and you can put a copper penny to protect that area, and if you want to get back to this switch for that joycon you can heat under the connector from the other side so you can't melt it anymore
I cant believe this worked. Congrats.
I'll give you a big thumbs up for giving it a good go mate, drop your temp to 400 at max and reduce the amount of flux, I do like your channel
Two tips mate, cut an hole with the size of Chip on the tape then apply it over. Buy yourself aluminum tape to put over the caption to deflect the heat. You can use kitchen foil too. You are putting too much heat , be patient 350c is ok
At 32:54 when you were cleaning up all the resisters that you knocked around or lost, there is one more that you didn't replace right above the chip see these two screencaps from 14:28 where the component is still there and 32:54 when it's not there. photos.app.goo.gl/2zXj7S1bVehcjDDB7