Top bloke, excellent, simple instructions that are easy for anyone, even me to understand and programmed marlin in real time with the video. I thought I was going to have to find Normally Closed probes, not anymore. Thank you so much for your video.
Important thing you left out, if you are using a sensorless driver like TMC2209 in UART mode, certain pin(s) have to be disabled. I would like not to clip pins on the driver, like if this needs to be done for SPI mode. From what I understand, the z endstop doesn't work if the debug pin is connected.
Hello Edward, thank you very much for your great tutorial. I have a quick question. I have an NPN NO sensor, but its power supply is 6-36 volts. Can you tell me how I can connect that to my SKR 1.4? Thank you and please keep it up. Heiko
For the popular 6-24/30/32/36v inductive sensors In case someone else has this problem. The popular inductive sensors are not compatible with the SKR series. The sensor in the video is running at 5v but these are harder to find and are more expensive The SKR has 5V on z switch while most sensors work between 6-32v. In order to use these, one needs a voltage divider. Power the sensor directly from the psu (12v in my case), insert voltage divider, signal drops to or a little lower than 5v and it works. for my sensor, the 15k on signal, 10k between signal and ground wires worked. However, even if the measured voltage at the sensor signal output is now correct, it still did not work. the SKR has hardware pull down and pull ups. My board maintained a steady 2.5v on the signal pin on the connector on the board. Meaning the sensor still won't work. You need to activate/deactivate de pull-ups an/or pull-downs (depending on the default setting and the measured voltage on the pin on the mobo). There is no need to reassign the z probe to other pins on the board like i've seen in other guides These need to be changed to fit your machine, example bellow are my settings. Sensor does not work on SKR without these settings being correct for the hardware used. **as a side note, the 4 to 8mm industrial inductive sensors are really good and reliable. i bought more LJ12A3-4-Z/BX for aroun 4usd(equivalent) / piece and they work great (even wen using a 2mm thick piece of galss over the bed) #if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS) // Disable ENDSTOPPULLUPS to set pullups individually //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE #endif // Enable pulldown for all endstops to prevent a floating state //#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWNS #if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLDOWNS) // Disable ENDSTOPPULLDOWNS to set pulldowns individually //#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_XMAX //#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_YMAX //#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_ZMAX //#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_XMIN //#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_YMIN #define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_ZMIN //#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_ZMIN_PROBE
@@EdwardBraiman thank you.. I have understood that I need to use 2 resistors to step down to 5v.. on google I have found only with external 12v psu to hook up to the sensor and I was thinking if I can take the 12v from the fan pin and only connect ground and signal cables to the z end stop.. with the resistor soldered
also, according to the seller I'm buying this probe from, it can detect anything. This is the discription. is this a different type of sensor than you have? Features: It is a component widely used in automatic control industry for detecting, controlling, and noncontact switching. When proximity switch is close to some target object, it will send out control signal. As it is capacitive type proximity switch, its detecting object target is not limited to only conductor, but also liquid and even powder things, like plastic, water, glass, oil, etc. It's widely used in machine, paper making, light industry for limiting station, orientation taking count, speeding trial ect. Specifications: 3 Wire Polarity: NPN Detection Voltage: DC 5V Detection Distance: 2mm Ouput Status: Normally Open Output current: 300mA Detection objects: Conductor Part number: LJ8A3-2-Z/BX Screw Length: 50mm Quantity: 1 Pc Note: Please allow 1-3mm error due to manual measurement. pls make sure you do not mind before you bid Due to the difference between different monitors, the picture may not reflect the actual color of the item. Thank you! Package Contents: 1 Pc x Inductive Switch
I did the fixed probe setup and left the "default zmin min probe uses zmin endstop pin" enabled and it seems to work fine, because the probe is actually plugged into the z endstop pins, same pins you are using. The bltouch pins are actually below the the pins you are using.
True, but I did test with zmin last night on commented out setting. The main reason I commented out was fixed mount probe setting would not compile/build without doing that.
If i understand, if i use a PNP NO ive just to modify the parameters define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false and define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false and if the power supply is 6 to 30V ive to add a voltage adapter to 5V like a voltage divider or an optocoupler or better a 7805 to give on black wire signal the wished 5V right?
Thank you for your great videos. I appreciate them greatly. I'm confused on the Marlin setup. You say to comment out the "use Z_MIN_ENDSTOP..." but then plug it into the endstop. I tried both variations of commented & uncommented but neither work for me. When I home Z the axis will move about a millimeter then stop.
What the sensor type? If it's not NPN NO, then it might not works. You can always test with an Endstop switch to verify pins are working. Then they with multimeter voltage from sensor to check your sensor is working.
@@EdwardBraiman Thank you for your reply Edward. I'm using the P.I.N.D.A V2 from POLISI3D. It's an NPN but I'm sure if it's normally open or closed. I believe it NC but not 100% sure. I'll try an endstop and see if that works.
@@SteinerSE Thank you Thomas for your help. I'm not sure. Would that effect the Z axis moving the wrong direction? The bed drops a couple times then stops. (Hypercube Evolution printer).
HI! nice tutorial! I´m trying to set my SKR 1.4 TURBO to work with UBL with a fixed probe, z home it´s good, heats up goes to the first point reads (in pronterface says fail to probe) and follows with the next point but in the same spot. i mean for example, it says point 3/9 but the probe is still in the first position and every time throws a "fail to probe" i dont know what am i missing, please help. Also, if i try to do a fine mesh edit it moves through the points normally. Thanks!
My guess is eeprom. There's a Discord chat in my Discord for BLT where someone might be able to give more information. The Link should be in description.
Great Video. Ive currently the v1.3 of this board and problems with the fixed probe. I've an inductive sensor like you. The Sensor you know a work around for that? I read that you could solder out the resistor( which is not an option because my solderiron is to big for that) or you could use the free servo pin and configure in the pins_BTT_SKR_V1_3.h file #define Z_MIN_PIN 2_00 #define SERVO0_PIN 1_25 But that doesn't seem to do the trick. With this config I don't even get the light on the sensor to shine ,when it's against the bed. You have any suggestions for me?
Are you using the exact sensor type? The emphasis on the tag in the tutorial was on purpose. The probe used in the tutorial only needs to be connected as shown.
@@EdwardBraiman got it to work with the method above, just used the right pin this time, had the pin layout 180 degree rotated. my bad. But thanks for helping! keep it up
Does this Lj18a3-8-z/bx works with the skr1.3?? The motherboard endstop output is 5volts and the sensor works between 6-36, so im getting something wrong or what?
Please I need help I have an SKR3 and an NPN probe NO my source is 24 volts and I use a TMC2209 driver UART mode with sensorless homing I did everything you told me in the video tutorial and it doesn't work please I need help
Can you do one of these fixed mount probe guides for the Skr Pro? I have installed one of these on various different boards but for some odd reason I just can't get it working at all on the Skr Pro. I am not sure exactly what the difference is be this board and all others I have tried, from the Skr 1.3 to the old mega ramps, but what ever it is just makes this type of probe not work at all.
@@EdwardBraiman Hmm...🤔 I guess I'll have to pull the one off my other printer then to see if it works so I can test out the board. I've have bought both PNP & NPN and used them but never really looked at one version working on one board over the others. I just grabbed one and installed it. Maybe I just got lucky in which one I used.
@@EdwardBraiman Got my new sensors and it works now. Now I have a few spares of various types for future projects. Not being NPN was definitely was the issue. Went for a Capacitive sensor for this build as I upgraded the bed to glass as well. Thanks for all the help. It has been appreciated.
I tried the SKR 1.4, but was getting a TMC Connection Error. I'm using TMC2209s (x4). I moved back to the SKR 1.3 and the same error appears. I have to assume there is an issue with the way I'm configuring Marlin. When I run command M122, I see this: X Y Z E Address 0 0 0 0 Enabled false false false false Y axis is moving fine, all others are locked, and the X axis stepper gets hot enough to burn me. Any recommendations?
@@EdwardBraiman Thanks for the link. I've read through that. Just as a point of reference, this is a 2015 Lulzbot TAZ 5 that I completely gutted, including cables as it was in bad condition due to many hours of use. Rebuilt all assemblies, but kept the original NEMA steppers. So, I did find that the 2209 that was overheating was bad. I moved it to the E0 slot and the problem followed. I ordered a new one. The Z axis was moving and so I rotated all axis through the operating Z and all motors worked, so that should eliminate any possible errors with my new cables. I assume at this point, I am still having a firmware or motherboard issue. All driver registers (M122) report connection OK, yet my X ,Y, and E0 are still not moving. I'll continue investigating what could be wrong, but it looks like some issue my ability to work with Marlin 2.
@@paulnolastname9422 you're welcome. I've still been working on a tutorial on how to get tmc2209 setup, but I've not rechecked since last time a couple of weeks ago. Maybe I'll check again tonight. I try and wait until I get something working before posting.
Am I missing something?....in the pinout picture you have circled two plugs, Servos and Probe. Then you use a totally different plug. You use the Z stop plug.
I have tryied with skr pro 1.1 with this sensor LJC18A3-H-Z/BX but it doesn't work... When the 3d printer goes home the led sensor switch on but it doesn't stop.. how i can fix it?
Check if you have 6 to 36 VDC version. If I'm not mistaking, in that case you shouldn't connect power pin to board but rather directly to your power source.
Please Edward Braiman can make a Video how Install a optical Endstop in a Filament running out sensor with the Skr V1.4 Turbo ? please ! Your are the Best ,i am a beginner in Programming a Board but you make that i can it do myself !
Soon, I'm in the middle of a tutorial I've been working as soon as it's complete I'll think about it. In my RAMPS 1.4 playlist there should be an old video on this.
I'll see if I can do a tutorial, but in the comments to my TFT 35 v3 video there is a conversation between me and someone else that kinda explained how to.
There is a huge problem with probing on multiply endstops when probing, i make an bugfix for this, still waiting that this will integrated in marlin. And, now we have marlin 2.0.2, in this i allready integrate an bugfix for all users that want to use multiply endstops and connect the Z endstops to the "z-stop" and "poen" pin
You can connect it to 12v pin. So instead of using the 5v pin in the Z min endstop section you'd use whatever 12v pin not being used. (If you're using a 24v supply those might be 24v & not 12v) One of the fans + pin would work, and you can even use the ground pin from the fan too. You just need to connect the signal wire to the signal pin from the endstop. see links for an image. Although, you might have to mess with the inverting in Marlin if it's a PNP sensor. www.dropbox.com/s/93lwpapwbwwfmzs/bottom%2012v%20pins.jpg?dl=0 www.dropbox.com/s/oio5hwgsohii2pu/top%2012v%20pins.jpg?dl=0
If you see in pins in config_adv.h auto fan is like this define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1. But when I open Pin_btt_skr.h. In the pin is define as define FAN_PIN P2_03. So when I put P2_03 instead of _1. Its give me the error.
@@robo909 I'm running a little behind because I tried to do tutorial with a PWM fan when I should have used a fan extender like my SKR 1.3 tutorial. It should work.
On SKR 1.4 you only need to connect steppers to each port for each steppers and run off one stepper. I might do a tutorial with BLtouch where I show movement in the video.
@@EdwardBraiman It would take a tutorial where you explain how to set dual Z in Marlin 2.0.3 because they changed everything, compared to Marlin 2.0.x and I can't understand. Please :(
it dont work for me, Z-axis dont stop when i try to home Z, it risk to broke my hot bed, Z-STOP is Pin 1.27 but nothing happen, i use the same hardware config
@@EdwardBraiman i tried now open im using marlin 2.0.7.2, i see also a #define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING that i leaved commented as default to follow your guide. If i use a 2 pin switch NC between 5V e sig 1_27 it work perfectly. i'm becoming crazy. I tried with bugfix version too.
Great tutorial, please can you make a new one about dual Z steppers, dual Z en stops (to ensure correct X leveling) and Inductive prove for bed leveling? In that way you have Z0, Z1, Z0 physical 0, Z1 Physical 0, and logical Z 0 (The bes surface) physical and logical Z 0 could differ. Regards,
Not sure I understand the question about dual endstops. When an endstop is used it moves to the endstop on one side and counts out until maximum value is reached in software. The only time you might need two endstops is when you're using dual x-carriages where they work from opposite sides of the x-carriage. Could you clarify your question?
@@EdwardBraiman No it was fine, just not that educated on the different type of probes and wondered if the probe used in the EzABL kits by TH3D is the type used in your video. Few guides are as clear and easy to follow as yours. I'm getting an EzABL Pro kit so I'll follow their instructions, but still enjoy watching your videos. (and since I'm getting a SKR board and compiling my own firmware it's a gold mine).
@@SteinerSE remember if it's not NPN NO 5volts it maybe a challenge to get it working. First time I tested it worked on a RAMPS 1.4, but sensor type is different for other board.
It's kinda simple, but I'm trying to reset my computer to a before state without using a ghost image. When plugged in you should see esp something in WiFi. The network password is 123456789 and then you need to load software according to website prompts from connection.
@@EdwardBraiman , I see ESP(as SSDP device) in my network , I got webInterface, but Board doesn't see ESP and not responding when I press some buttons or trying to get printer info. Tomorrow I'll open the dispute in AliExpress, maybe BTT will awake...
You are the only good youtuber that shows the skr1.4 👍 keep it up
Thanks.
Top bloke, excellent, simple instructions that are easy for anyone, even me to understand and programmed marlin in real time with the video. I thought I was going to have to find Normally Closed probes, not anymore. Thank you so much for your video.
Love ya. Really appreciate the time and effort you put into your vids. They're very clear and detailed.
Thanks.
Important thing you left out, if you are using a sensorless driver like TMC2209 in UART mode, certain pin(s) have to be disabled. I would like not to clip pins on the driver, like if this needs to be done for SPI mode. From what I understand, the z endstop doesn't work if the debug pin is connected.
Hello Edward, thank you very much for your great tutorial. I have a quick question. I have an NPN NO sensor, but its power supply is 6-36 volts. Can you tell me how I can connect that to my SKR 1.4?
Thank you and please keep it up.
Heiko
You need a buck converter but luckily if you do that it will connect directly to the z endstop which is way easier
I believe an optocoupler would work here.
For the popular 6-24/30/32/36v inductive sensors
In case someone else has this problem. The popular inductive sensors are not compatible with the SKR series.
The sensor in the video is running at 5v but these are harder to find and are more expensive
The SKR has 5V on z switch while most sensors work between 6-32v. In order to use these, one needs a voltage divider. Power the sensor directly from the psu (12v in my case), insert voltage divider, signal drops to or a little lower than 5v and it works. for my sensor, the 15k on signal, 10k between signal and ground wires worked. However, even if the measured voltage at the sensor signal output is now correct, it still did not work. the SKR has hardware pull down and pull ups. My board maintained a steady 2.5v on the signal pin on the connector on the board. Meaning the sensor still won't work.
You need to activate/deactivate de pull-ups an/or pull-downs (depending on the default setting and the measured voltage on the pin on the mobo). There is no need to reassign the z probe to other pins on the board like i've seen in other guides
These need to be changed to fit your machine, example bellow are my settings. Sensor does not work on SKR without these settings being correct for the hardware used.
**as a side note, the 4 to 8mm industrial inductive sensors are really good and reliable. i bought more LJ12A3-4-Z/BX for aroun 4usd(equivalent) / piece and they work great (even wen using a 2mm thick piece of galss over the bed)
#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
// Disable ENDSTOPPULLUPS to set pullups individually
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE
#endif
// Enable pulldown for all endstops to prevent a floating state
//#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWNS
#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLDOWNS)
// Disable ENDSTOPPULLDOWNS to set pulldowns individually
//#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_ZMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_XMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_YMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_ZMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLDOWN_ZMIN_PROBE
Can I take 12v for the proximity sensor from the always on fan pins?? Top right side corne if you look from usb and to put signal on z end stop?
You'd need to filter signal pin not to fry board. Signal pins only take a maximum of 5v, 12v will cook board.
@@EdwardBraiman thank you.. I have understood that I need to use 2 resistors to step down to 5v.. on google I have found only with external 12v psu to hook up to the sensor and I was thinking if I can take the 12v from the fan pin and only connect ground and signal cables to the z end stop.. with the resistor soldered
also, according to the seller I'm buying this probe from, it can detect anything.
This is the discription. is this a different type of sensor than you have?
Features:
It is a component widely used in automatic control industry for detecting, controlling, and noncontact switching.
When proximity switch is close to some target object, it will send out control signal.
As it is capacitive type proximity switch, its detecting object target is not limited to only conductor, but also liquid and even powder things, like plastic, water, glass, oil, etc.
It's widely used in machine, paper making, light industry for limiting station, orientation taking count, speeding trial ect.
Specifications:
3 Wire Polarity: NPN Detection
Voltage: DC 5V
Detection Distance: 2mm
Ouput Status: Normally Open
Output current: 300mA
Detection objects: Conductor
Part number: LJ8A3-2-Z/BX
Screw Length: 50mm
Quantity: 1 Pc
Note:
Please allow 1-3mm error due to manual measurement. pls make sure you do not mind before you bid
Due to the difference between different monitors, the picture may not reflect the actual color of the item. Thank you!
Package Contents:
1 Pc x Inductive Switch
The sensor in the video is inductive. I've not yet tested capacitive and might not, because the last time I used one the wires melted.
@@EdwardBraiman Will i be able to follow the same steps to set it up on my BTT 1.4 Turbo/Pro MOBO?
Is the Pro Mobo a printer?
I did the fixed probe setup and left the "default zmin min probe uses zmin endstop pin" enabled and it seems to work fine, because the probe is actually plugged into the z endstop pins, same pins you are using. The bltouch pins are actually below the the pins you are using.
True, but I did test with zmin last night on commented out setting. The main reason I commented out was fixed mount probe setting would not compile/build without doing that.
Great video as always! I'm in the middle of setting up a skr 1.4 , it is possible to use both a z min endstop and a inductive probe ?
Unfortunately you can only use one.
If i understand, if i use a PNP NO ive just to modify the parameters
define
Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false and
define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false and if the power supply is 6 to 30V ive to add a voltage adapter to 5V like a voltage divider or an optocoupler or better a 7805 to give on black wire signal the wished 5V right?
A voltage step down to signal pin helps, but it's easier to use one listed in description.
@@EdwardBraiman i buy NPN its easier, thank for reply
I like the video but it was even better when i changed the playback speed to 1.25.
Thank you for your great videos. I appreciate them greatly.
I'm confused on the Marlin setup. You say to comment out the "use Z_MIN_ENDSTOP..." but then plug it into the endstop. I tried both variations of commented & uncommented but neither work for me. When I home Z the axis will move about a millimeter then stop.
What the sensor type? If it's not NPN NO, then it might not works. You can always test with an Endstop switch to verify pins are working. Then they with multimeter voltage from sensor to check your sensor is working.
Forgot to inverse the triggered state?
@@EdwardBraiman Thank you for your reply Edward. I'm using the P.I.N.D.A V2 from POLISI3D. It's an NPN but I'm sure if it's normally open or closed. I believe it NC but not 100% sure. I'll try an endstop and see if that works.
@@SteinerSE Thank you Thomas for your help. I'm not sure. Would that effect the Z axis moving the wrong direction? The bed drops a couple times then stops. (Hypercube Evolution printer).
If the axis moves in wrong direction you can invert direction in Marlin firmware.
Hello. One question. We need to change the jumper for 5v and keep in 5v right? Other thing. This will work with a skr e3 mini v1.2? Thank you
Yes if it has a 5v jumper. The reason make people use 5v is it safer way to explain firmware updating.
Excellent video thank you
You're welcome.
HI! nice tutorial! I´m trying to set my SKR 1.4 TURBO to work with UBL with a fixed probe, z home it´s good, heats up goes to the first point reads (in pronterface says fail to probe) and follows with the next point but in the same spot. i mean for example, it says point 3/9 but the probe is still in the first position and every time throws a "fail to probe" i dont know what am i missing, please help.
Also, if i try to do a fine mesh edit it moves through the points normally.
Thanks!
My guess is eeprom. There's a Discord chat in my Discord for BLT where someone might be able to give more information. The Link should be in description.
Great Video. Ive currently the v1.3 of this board and problems with the fixed probe. I've an inductive sensor like you. The Sensor
you know a work around for that? I read that you could solder out the resistor( which is not an option because my solderiron is to big for that) or you could use the free servo pin and configure in the pins_BTT_SKR_V1_3.h file
#define Z_MIN_PIN 2_00
#define SERVO0_PIN 1_25
But that doesn't seem to do the trick. With this config I don't even get the light on the sensor to shine ,when it's against the bed. You have any suggestions for me?
Are you using the exact sensor type? The emphasis on the tag in the tutorial was on purpose. The probe used in the tutorial only needs to be connected as shown.
@@EdwardBraiman i think so, its the PL 08N Sensor.
@@EdwardBraiman got it to work with the method above, just used the right pin this time, had the pin layout 180 degree rotated. my bad. But thanks for helping! keep it up
@@skysi you're welcome.
Good Work. Can you add a video regarding Fans. I want to run fan automatically when temperature touch 55. And how we run addition two fans on fan port
Yes.
@@EdwardBraiman thanks i will wait for that video.
Does this Lj18a3-8-z/bx works with the skr1.3?? The motherboard endstop output is 5volts and the sensor works between 6-36, so im getting something wrong or what?
The sensor in the description worked.
Please I need help I have an SKR3 and an NPN probe NO my source is 24 volts and I use a TMC2209 driver UART mode with sensorless homing I did everything you told me in the video tutorial and it doesn't work please I need help
There's a link in description to Discord.
Everyone is in general chat.
Can you do one of these fixed mount probe guides for the Skr Pro? I have installed one of these on various different boards but for some odd reason I just can't get it working at all on the Skr Pro. I am not sure exactly what the difference is be this board and all others I have tried, from the Skr 1.3 to the old mega ramps, but what ever it is just makes this type of probe not work at all.
Ramps works on PNP, where as SKR 1.3 does NPN.
@@EdwardBraiman Hmm...🤔 I guess I'll have to pull the one off my other printer then to see if it works so I can test out the board. I've have bought both PNP & NPN and used them but never really looked at one version working on one board over the others. I just grabbed one and installed it. Maybe I just got lucky in which one I used.
If it makes you feel better I made the same mistake.
@@EdwardBraiman Got my new sensors and it works now. Now I have a few spares of various types for future projects. Not being NPN was definitely was the issue. Went for a Capacitive sensor for this build as I upgraded the bed to glass as well.
Thanks for all the help. It has been appreciated.
@@VectorRoll congratulations, but capacitive sensors can cause the wires to melt, so watch it like a hawk.
Thanks!
You're welcome.
Did you ever tried to use the 5v inductive sensor with the skr pro 1.1?
Not yet, but it should be similar.
Just need to check if NPN NO.
@@EdwardBraiman thanks for the response. I did try with the stock tronxy x5sa pro induction sensor (NPN NO), It lights up but it doesn't trigger.
It maybe different for your board. Do you know which board that is? I may have it in my 3d board collection.
I tried the SKR 1.4, but was getting a TMC Connection Error. I'm using TMC2209s (x4). I moved back to the SKR 1.3 and the same error appears. I have to assume there is an issue with the way I'm configuring Marlin. When I run command M122, I see this: X Y Z E
Address 0 0 0 0
Enabled false false false false
Y axis is moving fine, all others are locked, and the X axis stepper gets hot enough to burn me. Any recommendations?
Try moving y axis stepper to x axis and see if it moves. Remember to power down setup. There maybe an issue on Marlin bug track website.
Check www.github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/16617 this might be related.
@@EdwardBraiman Thanks for the link. I've read through that. Just as a point of reference, this is a 2015 Lulzbot TAZ 5 that I completely gutted, including cables as it was in bad condition due to many hours of use. Rebuilt all assemblies, but kept the original NEMA steppers. So, I did find that the 2209 that was overheating was bad. I moved it to the E0 slot and the problem followed. I ordered a new one. The Z axis was moving and so I rotated all axis through the operating Z and all motors worked, so that should eliminate any possible errors with my new cables. I assume at this point, I am still having a firmware or motherboard issue. All driver registers (M122) report connection OK, yet my X ,Y, and E0 are still not moving. I'll continue investigating what could be wrong, but it looks like some issue my ability to work with Marlin 2.
@@paulnolastname9422 you're welcome. I've still been working on a tutorial on how to get tmc2209 setup, but I've not rechecked since last time a couple of weeks ago. Maybe I'll check again tonight. I try and wait until I get something working before posting.
Am I missing something?....in the pinout picture you have circled two plugs, Servos and Probe. Then you use a totally different plug. You use the Z stop plug.
Yes, the other plug at the time of recording was not functioning correctly. And new setting changes had been added to marlin firmware.
I have a probe like that maybe just a little different and did everything u did and it wont work always says lit up and opened never gets triggered
The logic of the probe might not be the same.
@@EdwardBraiman i got to work now had to plug my ground to z pins and blue and black to probe pins
I have tryied with skr pro 1.1 with this sensor LJC18A3-H-Z/BX but it doesn't work... When the 3d printer goes home the led sensor switch on but it doesn't stop.. how i can fix it?
Unsure as the tutorial is not for SKR pro 1.1.
Check if you have 6 to 36 VDC version. If I'm not mistaking, in that case you shouldn't connect power pin to board but rather directly to your power source.
Please Edward Braiman can make a Video how Install a optical Endstop in a Filament running out sensor with the Skr V1.4 Turbo ? please ! Your are the Best ,i am a beginner in Programming a Board but you make that i can it do myself !
Soon, I'm in the middle of a tutorial I've been working as soon as it's complete I'll think about it. In my RAMPS 1.4 playlist there should be an old video on this.
Hi Edward, please show us how to use the WiFi-Module.
I'll see if I can do a tutorial, but in the comments to my TFT 35 v3 video there is a conversation between me and someone else that kinda explained how to.
There is a huge problem with probing on multiply endstops when probing, i make an bugfix for this, still waiting that this will integrated in marlin.
And, now we have marlin 2.0.2, in this i allready integrate an bugfix for all users that want to use multiply endstops and connect the Z endstops to the "z-stop" and "poen" pin
Not sure about fix yet as I'm on some of the Marlin bugs emails. Do you have a link to the Marlin bug?
is the process the same for the v1.1 board.
Unsure.
Tks
You're welcome.
Is there any way to connect an 12 v sensor? I have one lying around at home
You can connect it to 12v pin. So instead of using the 5v pin in the Z min endstop section you'd use whatever 12v pin not being used. (If you're using a 24v supply those might be 24v & not 12v) One of the fans + pin would work, and you can even use the ground pin from the fan too. You just need to connect the signal wire to the signal pin from the endstop. see links for an image. Although, you might have to mess with the inverting in Marlin if it's a PNP sensor.
www.dropbox.com/s/93lwpapwbwwfmzs/bottom%2012v%20pins.jpg?dl=0
www.dropbox.com/s/oio5hwgsohii2pu/top%2012v%20pins.jpg?dl=0
@@Hopeinformer he's but the problem ist that that sensor is a output signal 12 volt and the z min signal pin schould be 5 volt?
@@luminousmoonnight6487 I'm not sure. I've never seen a probe that needs 12v for the signal
It's possible, but I burned wires in the past doing this.
A 7805 stepdown will do it, but it's very very dangerous. So please avoid trying.
But man, if you had ended with "Please trigger the like button, -_______-"
If you see in pins in config_adv.h auto fan is like this define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN -1. But when I open Pin_btt_skr.h. In the pin is define as define FAN_PIN P2_03. So when I put P2_03 instead of _1. Its give me the error.
That sounds like a bug, but I can check in the morning.
thanks
@@EdwardBraiman did you check it.
@@robo909 I'm running a little behind because I tried to do tutorial with a PWM fan when I should have used a fan extender like my SKR 1.3 tutorial. It should work.
@@EdwardBraiman THANKS BUT I WANT TO SEE WITHOUT FAN EXTENDER AND WANT TO USE FAN_PIN P2_03. LOT OF LOT PEOPLE ARE ASKING ABOUT THIS
Please, can you explain how to configure Double Z, on Marlin 2.0.3? Nobody did it, you would be the first 🤗
Do you mean the physical board or advanced configuration?
@@EdwardBraiman Advanced Configuration :)
On SKR 1.4 you only need to connect steppers to each port for each steppers and run off one stepper. I might do a tutorial with BLtouch where I show movement in the video.
Keep in mind BLtouch is still broken in Marlin 2.0.x.
@@EdwardBraiman It would take a tutorial where you explain how to set dual Z in Marlin 2.0.3 because they changed everything, compared to Marlin 2.0.x and I can't understand. Please :(
it dont work for me, Z-axis dont stop when i try to home Z, it risk to broke my hot bed, Z-STOP is Pin 1.27 but nothing happen, i use the same hardware config
Before you home axis what do you see in Pronterface when you send the command, "M119"?
Also is the printer surface made of metal?
@@EdwardBraiman yes is in metal
Could you answer the first question as well?
@@EdwardBraiman i tried now open im using marlin 2.0.7.2, i see also a #define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING that i leaved commented as default to follow your guide. If i use a 2 pin switch NC between 5V e sig 1_27 it work perfectly. i'm becoming crazy. I tried with bugfix version too.
Not direct power, it's called usb power.
Great tutorial, please can you make a new one about dual Z steppers, dual Z en stops (to ensure correct X leveling) and Inductive prove for bed leveling?
In that way you have Z0, Z1, Z0 physical 0, Z1 Physical 0, and logical Z 0 (The bes surface) physical and logical Z 0 could differ.
Regards,
Not sure I understand the question about dual endstops. When an endstop is used it moves to the endstop on one side and counts out until maximum value is reached in software. The only time you might need two endstops is when you're using dual x-carriages where they work from opposite sides of the x-carriage. Could you clarify your question?
Is that what the EzABL is?
Did I mispronce something , I recorded the tutorial quick.
@@EdwardBraiman No it was fine, just not that educated on the different type of probes and wondered if the probe used in the EzABL kits by TH3D is the type used in your video. Few guides are as clear and easy to follow as yours. I'm getting an EzABL Pro kit so I'll follow their instructions, but still enjoy watching your videos. (and since I'm getting a SKR board and compiling my own firmware it's a gold mine).
@@SteinerSE remember if it's not NPN NO 5volts it maybe a challenge to get it working. First time I tested it worked on a RAMPS 1.4, but sensor type is different for other board.
You'll better show how to setup Marlin for working with WiFi(ESP-01). Or maybe it's impossible? "support@bigtree-tech.com" doesn't give an answer.
It's kinda simple, but I'm trying to reset my computer to a before state without using a ghost image. When plugged in you should see esp something in WiFi. The network password is 123456789 and then you need to load software according to website prompts from connection.
@@EdwardBraiman , I see ESP(as SSDP device) in my network , I got webInterface, but Board doesn't see ESP and not responding when I press some buttons or trying to get printer info. Tomorrow I'll open the dispute in AliExpress, maybe BTT will awake...
@@ДмитрийЯровой-л5з unfortunately Bigtreetech still seems to have issues with tech support.