Hello, this was so useful. I grafted Grandiflora Variegata on common grandiflora rootstock using this method. Both were dormant in winters at that time when I saw this video around 2 months ago. Now its spring and 2/3 are pushing new growth uptop and the scion looks healthy and swelling. When should I expect them to leaf out from the scion?
Glad you're getting success. If you have a good notch above the scion to prevent flow of materials (auxin) from above, in the rootstock, the scion should sprout out about the same time as the top of the rootstock.
@@malcolmmanners1342 the brown hairy bud of the scion keeps swelling and peeling off easily. Its the second time today. What do you think might be going on with the graft
Thank you, Sir! Finally, someone to explain how it's done. I'm amazed at size of your 1 year old rootstock. I takes me about 3 years to get them that big. What's your secret? Do you plant the seed up right away in 2 gal containers? Watering, full sun, fertilizer how much and how often? Sorry about all these questions. :) Keep up the good work.
Thanks Jovan. We stratify our seeds in a home-type refrigerator for 3 months, then plant in 2x2x6 inch plastic pots (see my video on rooting rose cuttings -- those are the pots). After they've grown several inches high, we transfer them to the larger pots. They are grown in a warm greenhouse and fertilized regularly. You don't say where you are, but I wonder if you may be growing them under cooler conditions? That would slow them down. Also, are you growing M. grandiflora, or one of the more cold-hardy deciduous types? I wonder if we may get more growth out of grandiflora, in a year? Malcolm
@@malcolmmanners1342 Thank you very much for detailed answer. I'm in Serbia, in Europe. Our climate is zone 7a. We have very hot and long summers and used to have cold winters, but now they are getting milder... I have few magnolia grandiflora trees, they grow here just fine, and flower whole summer. But never could make them grow more than 8 inches high in their first year. I stratify just like you, I just planted them, few days ago in a heated greenhouse, cause they started to produce root. Usually i plant them in round 5inch pot,4inch deep, thays about a 1/4 of a gallon ij volume. Guess thats my mistake, will try your way, i hope it will be better.
Hi. My mom purchased a magnolia tree out of a magazine, and when it finally arrived it was only about 2 inches tall. Well she planted it in about six months later she died. The tree kept growing until I got a new puppy and he ate the tree so what I’m wondering is I have a root stock with no leaves and I snapped off portion of that stock has a little tiny bud on it is it possible I can put them together and regrow it I really don’t wanna lose the magnolia tree my mom planted before she died.
My condolences about your loss of your mom. There is a good chance the tree was a seedling, if only 2 inches tall, so there is also a good chance the stump will sprout out on its own. It may send up several shoots, and if you want a single-trunk tree eventually, you should break off all but the strongest, straightest, most vertical new shoot. I would not expect you to be successful grafting part of the top back onto the base, unless you did so within a very short time after the break occurred, and assuming you are an experienced grafter. Best wishes! I hope the base regrows.
Yes, this is the method I use for mango, with a few extra steps: I like to graft them inJune, in Florida (the beginning of our hot, rainy season). I like to take a fully dormant branch on the scion source tree, and cut the blades of the leaves off, but leave the petioles attached. Then wait 5-10 days, until the petioles naturally loosen and begin to fall off. On that day, I harvest the scion twigs and graft them exactly as shown above. That's called "preparing" the scions. If you skip that step, you won't get as good a rate of success. But by doing that, mango can be grafted at better than 95% success.
Фаҳмидани он, ки Google translate на ҳама вақт кори хуби тарҷумаро иҷро мекунад, бубахшед, аммо ман саволро намефаҳмам. Чунин ба назар мерасад, ки шумо дар бораи сагбачаҳои калон мепурсед? (Realizing that Google translate doesn't always do a very good job of translating, I'm sorry, but I don't understand the question. It appears that you are asking about large puppies?)
@@ozbekistonolgozbekistonolg546 Ah, I am sorry, but I have never tried that one. Best wishes. Ой, извините, но я никогда не пробовал это. С наилучшими пожеланиями.
@@malcolmmanners1342 Не огорчайтесь друг мой. Если меня когда нибудь удастся узнать этот, я обязательно вам сообщу. Сейчас у меня имеются саженцы Грандифлория и Суланжа. Прививать Грандифлории вы продемонстрировали очень подробно за это благодарен вам. Суланжу буду попробовать по вашему методом. По моему у Суланжа корни сильнее чем Грандифлоры.
Thank you for sharing your technique of grafting. Similar to the comments below, I have a grandiflora that was thriving so nicely ( we live in Oklahoma) but our last ice storm was a killer that destroyed or damaged much of the mature trees in our state. In my case, the upper, younger branches of the tree were sheered off by the weight of the accumulated ice, as also happened to some lower, larger branches, leaving the tree very asymmetrical in shape. Could I use some method of grafting to fill in the empty spaces? Should i choose branches from the tree with active leaf budding (it's now Spring here), and if so, how long a branch? How much of the cambium or bark should be removed? Thank you for your help.
In theory, you should be able to do some repair grafts, but sorry to say I've never tried that, so I'm not sure what to suggest. If the damaged trunk is making new growth, I see no reason to graft them? Just let them grow. Or am I missing something in the question?
@@malcolmmanners1342 I thank you for the reply. Perhaps I should just wait to see if new growth appears and wait a few growing seasons before deciding on something more drastic, such as grafting of new growth on the main trunk to a site where there is just bare trunk; that was essentially what I was thinking in my initial question.
My yard guys cut the lower branches of my my beautiful, fully mature magnolia tree. Now it looks scrawny because half of trunk and half is branches. I believe magnolias should be 2/3 branches and only 1/3 trunk. Can I graft new branches to the lower, bare part of my tree?
I think that would be a challenge. Easier, and likely successful, would be to cut a horizontal notch just above where you want a branch. If there is a dormant axillary bud there, it may sprout out.
@@malcolmmanners1342 Thank you so much for responding. How long and how deep should the notch be? Also should it be wide enough to have a piece trunk taken out? It is a mature magnolia tree.
@@LadyGoza I don't think I'd take a bark chunk out; just a knife slice through the bark, horizontal, no more than 1/4 of the circumfrance of the trunk, or perhaps 2-3 inches, whichever is less. I'm kind of guessing here -- I've never tried it with a mature magnolia.
Ears, I'm sorry that was your impression. I went back and watched the video again, and all of the terminology used was the universally accepted English terms for all the parts. I'm not sure how that can be improved, in that those parts tend not to have different, more common names. If this is your first exposure to grafting, then perhaps it's not the appropriate video to begin with; I'm assuming the viewer has the concepts (and terms) of grafting pretty well down, and is now looking for a good method to use for magnolia trees. I did an earlier video on basic grafting technique, which might be helpful (ruclips.net/user/videoENsyNbzdf2U). You might also want to look into the terminology of plant stem structure (buds, cambium, etc.). Best wishes.
Amazing work. First time I’ve seen this. Thanks!
Good information. We appreciate you
Hello, this was so useful. I grafted Grandiflora Variegata on common grandiflora rootstock using this method. Both were dormant in winters at that time when I saw this video around 2 months ago. Now its spring and 2/3 are pushing new growth uptop and the scion looks healthy and swelling. When should I expect them to leaf out from the scion?
Glad you're getting success. If you have a good notch above the scion to prevent flow of materials (auxin) from above, in the rootstock, the scion should sprout out about the same time as the top of the rootstock.
@@malcolmmanners1342 the brown hairy bud of the scion keeps swelling and peeling off easily. Its the second time today. What do you think might be going on with the graft
@@Raisen6331 It sounds like it may be starting to grow.
Thank you, Sir! Finally, someone to explain how it's done. I'm amazed at size of your 1 year old rootstock. I takes me about 3 years to get them that big. What's your secret? Do you plant the seed up right away in 2 gal containers? Watering, full sun, fertilizer how much and how often? Sorry about all these questions. :) Keep up the good work.
Thanks Jovan. We stratify our seeds in a home-type refrigerator for 3 months, then plant in 2x2x6 inch plastic pots (see my video on rooting rose cuttings -- those are the pots). After they've grown several inches high, we transfer them to the larger pots. They are grown in a warm greenhouse and fertilized regularly. You don't say where you are, but I wonder if you may be growing them under cooler conditions? That would slow them down. Also, are you growing M. grandiflora, or one of the more cold-hardy deciduous types? I wonder if we may get more growth out of grandiflora, in a year? Malcolm
@@malcolmmanners1342 Thank you very much for detailed answer. I'm in Serbia, in Europe. Our climate is zone 7a. We have very hot and long summers and used to have cold winters, but now they are getting milder... I have few magnolia grandiflora trees, they grow here just fine, and flower whole summer. But never could make them grow more than 8 inches high in their first year. I stratify just like you, I just planted them, few days ago in a heated greenhouse, cause they started to produce root. Usually i plant them in round 5inch pot,4inch deep, thays about a 1/4 of a gallon ij volume. Guess thats my mistake, will try your way, i hope it will be better.
Hi.
My mom purchased a magnolia tree out of a magazine, and when it finally arrived it was only about 2 inches tall. Well she planted it in about six months later she died. The tree kept growing until I got a new puppy and he ate the tree so what I’m wondering is I have a root stock with no leaves and I snapped off portion of that stock has a little tiny bud on it is it possible I can put them together and regrow it I really don’t wanna lose the magnolia tree my mom planted before she died.
My condolences about your loss of your mom. There is a good chance the tree was a seedling, if only 2 inches tall, so there is also a good chance the stump will sprout out on its own. It may send up several shoots, and if you want a single-trunk tree eventually, you should break off all but the strongest, straightest, most vertical new shoot. I would not expect you to be successful grafting part of the top back onto the base, unless you did so within a very short time after the break occurred, and assuming you are an experienced grafter. Best wishes! I hope the base regrows.
Can mangoes be grafted the same way
Yes, this is the method I use for mango, with a few extra steps: I like to graft them inJune, in Florida (the beginning of our hot, rainy season). I like to take a fully dormant branch on the scion source tree, and cut the blades of the leaves off, but leave the petioles attached. Then wait 5-10 days, until the petioles naturally loosen and begin to fall off. On that day, I harvest the scion twigs and graft them exactly as shown above. That's called "preparing" the scions. If you skip that step, you won't get as good a rate of success. But by doing that, mango can be grafted at better than 95% success.
@@malcolmmanners1342 thank you!
Миннатдорман,жуда катта ердам килдингиз. Рахмат. Суланжа навига качон пайванд килиниши хакида маьлумот берсангиз. Узбекистан
Фаҳмидани он, ки Google translate на ҳама вақт кори хуби тарҷумаро иҷро мекунад, бубахшед, аммо ман саволро намефаҳмам. Чунин ба назар мерасад, ки шумо дар бораи сагбачаҳои калон мепурсед? (Realizing that Google translate doesn't always do a very good job of translating, I'm sorry, but I don't understand the question. It appears that you are asking about large puppies?)
@@malcolmmanners1342 Блогадарен вам. Я спросил про листопадного сорта магнолии Суланжа. Когда и как прививать его? Спасибо.
@@ozbekistonolgozbekistonolg546 Ah, I am sorry, but I have never tried that one. Best wishes. Ой, извините, но я никогда не пробовал это. С наилучшими пожеланиями.
@@malcolmmanners1342 Не огорчайтесь друг мой. Если меня когда нибудь удастся узнать этот, я обязательно вам сообщу. Сейчас у меня имеются саженцы Грандифлория и Суланжа. Прививать Грандифлории вы продемонстрировали очень подробно за это благодарен вам. Суланжу буду попробовать по вашему методом. По моему у Суланжа корни сильнее чем Грандифлоры.
Thank you for sharing your technique of grafting. Similar to the comments below, I have a grandiflora that was thriving so nicely ( we live in Oklahoma) but our last ice storm was a killer that destroyed or damaged much of the mature trees in our state. In my case, the upper, younger branches of the tree were sheered off by the weight of the accumulated ice, as also happened to some lower, larger branches, leaving the tree very asymmetrical in shape. Could I use some method of grafting to fill in the empty spaces? Should i choose branches from the tree with active leaf budding (it's now Spring here), and if so, how long a branch? How much of the cambium or bark should be removed? Thank you for your help.
In theory, you should be able to do some repair grafts, but sorry to say I've never tried that, so I'm not sure what to suggest. If the damaged trunk is making new growth, I see no reason to graft them? Just let them grow. Or am I missing something in the question?
@@malcolmmanners1342 I thank you for the reply. Perhaps I should just wait to see if new growth appears and wait a few growing seasons before deciding on something more drastic, such as grafting of new growth on the main trunk to a site where there is just bare trunk; that was essentially what I was thinking in my initial question.
My yard guys cut the lower branches of my my beautiful, fully mature magnolia tree. Now it looks scrawny because half of trunk and half is branches. I believe magnolias should be 2/3 branches and only 1/3 trunk. Can I graft new branches to the lower, bare part of my tree?
I think that would be a challenge. Easier, and likely successful, would be to cut a horizontal notch just above where you want a branch. If there is a dormant axillary bud there, it may sprout out.
@@malcolmmanners1342 Thank you so much for responding. How long and how deep should the notch be? Also should it be wide enough to have a piece trunk taken out? It is a mature magnolia tree.
@@LadyGoza I don't think I'd take a bark chunk out; just a knife slice through the bark, horizontal, no more than 1/4 of the circumfrance of the trunk, or perhaps 2-3 inches, whichever is less. I'm kind of guessing here -- I've never tried it with a mature magnolia.
Regular Wedge goes as well ?thanks
I have not tried that, but I would think if that method works well for you with other species, it's worth a try.
wish you would stop using jargon terms: it sound like another language and I end up knowing nothing.
Ears, I'm sorry that was your impression. I went back and watched the video again, and all of the terminology used was the universally accepted English terms for all the parts. I'm not sure how that can be improved, in that those parts tend not to have different, more common names. If this is your first exposure to grafting, then perhaps it's not the appropriate video to begin with; I'm assuming the viewer has the concepts (and terms) of grafting pretty well down, and is now looking for a good method to use for magnolia trees. I did an earlier video on basic grafting technique, which might be helpful (ruclips.net/user/videoENsyNbzdf2U). You might also want to look into the terminology of plant stem structure (buds, cambium, etc.). Best wishes.