3D Printing Silicone Squishy Toys
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Let's see if we can make our own squishy toys by using 3D Printed Molds + some different Silicone options
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#3DPrinting #moldmaking #3dprinter
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I know these are "meant" for FDM - but for anyone out there attempting to print in resin - make note that most resins have sulfur which can introduce cure inhibition with platinum based silicones. Either use a tin-cure silicone with no worries OR coat your resin print in some sort of varnish. There are also certain resins available in which you don't need to take extra care with but do need to follow the manufacturer's guide for curing correctly in order to prevent this issue when used with platinum silicone.
It just so happens... that I have another project testing out Siraya Tech's new silicone that is made for molding resin 3d prints. But your info is 1000% helpful! Thanks!
Glad you knew the details on this. I vaguely remembered certain silicones not curing well when used with platinum molds, or vice versa. Thanks for laying out the details.
@@UncleJessy Looking forward to that, great video as always dude 🤘
@@geuis No worries, glad I could help!
Zach is very correct and the dice makers know this since they tend to resin print their master dice, then make silicone molds. There are a few options. The first one is to let your resin print really really cure up (2+ weeks or more, haven't tried it personally). Another option is to use a product like Mann Inhibit X (which seems to be the same folks as Smooth On and Reynolds Advanced Materials). This makes a barrier that completely removes the problem (have tried it personally). But it's also fairly expensive, though a can of this stuff lasts a long time. The last option is some kind of varnish or lacquer to act as a barrier (not sure on products, haven't tried it).
Also, I’d suggest against “eyeball” mixing. That’s probably why some of them are tacky. And your Uncle Jessy logo can be cleaned with Naptha. That’s the solvent you use to clean up silicone. 😊
Yes, definitely! You should follow the instructions on the label, otherwise the silicone won't cure properly, like ever.
Much much appreciated! Will be cleaning that up today!
I was overly irritated at that... "I'm not gonna do this right... Then I'm gonna complain about how it didn't work right..." Really did those two companies a disservice there.
@@BadPandaWoodworks fyi I mention towards the end and show off a properly measured mold and after 24hrs it’s still not cured. It took close to 3 days now for that mold that was measured properly to cure. All the others were good
@@UncleJessy I watched the entire video.. I know you went back and glossed over how you were going to do it the right way... But why not do it right the first time? I get the need for sensationalism on RUclips... You want the views... But I don't get the "I'm gonna do this the wrong way first, talk about how bad it is, then go back at the end and gloss over doing it right" thing you did here. I appreciate what you're doing here, but this one leaves a bit to be desired.
This would be great to create a "Flash Light" mold
*flesh
@@BabyJesus66 🤣😂 I was about to Google flash light mold 🤣😂
Materbater?
@@addmix KnobblerGobbler
Stealth 100
Remember silicone sticks to silicone so when pouring silicone into a silicone mold you'll want to apply a layer of mold release before hand
its better to get other material thats rubbery but isnt silicone, also with rigid figures you use rubbery mold, with rubbery figures you use rigid molds
Uncured silicone (and epoxy resin!) actually can clean out of molds pretty well with simple Clorox wipes, no need to toss those molds. I also recommend trying out Dragon Skin 10 for silicone. It's less fussy, you can eyeball it reliably, and it's remarkably stretchy in addition to being soft. I like using the 20 version for dice molds.
Also costs considerably more but yeah smooth-on has really good casting supplies. I've cast stuff using their urathane products
@John Smith it does, yeah, but sometimes its worth the upsell for the lack of headaches
@@TaywuhsaurusRex For sure ! Their silicone for making reusable molds is top notch as well.
FYI Smooth-On is a top tier producer of silicones for mold pours. They have good pricing and love helping out the crafting community. They have tons of Hollywood customers and a great reputation in the special effects industry.
He mentions smooth-on towards the end and mentioned he didn't want to pay $50 for silicone when he knew he wouldn't use the whole thing. But yes, I love smooth-on as well
@@Zeldur Fun fact they are based out of Easton PA right near where I grew up!
Mixing the correct ratio of the 2 parts is pretty important and you didn't look to be actually measuring any of these accurately. Likely the reason why some of them didnt fully cure.
Towards the end I did properly mix via a scale and after 48 hrs it’s still messy. Lots of reviews on Amazon saying similar with that brand unfortunately
my mom: son why do you have all that beige colored silicone?
me: the less you know the better mom.
If I recall correctly Cura has a mold box function. Would be interesting to see them compared.
Less of a mold box and more of a glove mold approach. The usefulness is questionable if you want to reuse a printed mold like this since its still printed in one piece
Pretty sure The Crafsman would have some answers and advice for ya on a lot of this. He did a series experimenting with similar ideas. That would be a great collaboration 😀
You just have to get the dragon skin silicon, just be careful when looking it up
3d printed plastics often cause problems with platinum cure silicone. Giving it a dunk in some inhibit-x should help.
I usually coat my prints in wax when I want to take a mold of them.
Building a pressure chamber from a paint tank is awesome for getting rid of bubbles and it's not too expensive. There's a guy on here wearing a backwards hat that has as tutorial on how to convert it, it's easy and I use mine all the time.
I have never worked with the products you've shown but typical caulking silicone cleans up really well with methyl hydrate.
Thanks Jessy.
Thanks!
I think it's pronounced "inspire". It has that "pyr" like Spyro. Pretty cool though. Please stop finding new patreons for me to join LOL
When mixing silicon most are mixed by weight, get some digital scales. Eyeballing it isn't the way to go.
Make sure to also read the materials sheet, and pay attention to temperature range required for it to cure.
A combination of incorrect measurements and temp could be why that silicon was not curing correctly.
If you decide to do a followup it would probably be worth covering some different types of silicon. Eg food safe, tear resistance, and heat resistant types.
Those little lizards remind me of the characters, Bub and Bob, from Bubble Bobble. Now just need to tint the mixture green and blue!
Looks like Uncle Jesse needs a master class by Robert Tolone. Eyeballing wasn't a great idea 😂
100% high solids silicone needs moisture to cure so I can see sealed up containers being an issue for cure times
I have been looking into doing this for the dice set my daughter created. Think I'll finally get around to do it after watching this! Thanks for the great video as always UJ!
Oh wow!!! Okay now that sounds like it could be really fun. Some squishy dice!
you add naphta to make silicone more stretchy and you add potato flour to make it harder, theres a point where its gonna just snap if you add to much filler like flour ,you can add really any powder you want to silicone and also oil paint or acrylics will change color of silicone, dont mix silicone with other dough type materials, silicone will bond with silicone only and mechanically will bond with with some fine powders, you can use regular silicone in tubes and submerge in water with soap which will get rid of the smell and let it cure faster
I've worked with all kinds of different silicones and I wanted to let you know there's a big difference between the platinum based silicones and the TiN based silicones. With the Platinum if there's any kind of sulfur at all it will not set properly. The platinums can be very fussy. The TiN Bass pretty much don't care if you mix the two parts together it's going to cure. I mean unless you really have a lot of contamination. Also you can get the silicone in different grades of hardness which are called A-Shore... Do some research on that pretty quick and you'll learn a lot. There are oils that can be mixed in with the silicone to lower the A-Shore number... That makes it softer, at the cost that it can tear easier.
You may want to do a search for Cine Skin which is a type of TiN silicone which approximates the feel of human skin. Give or take. I hope that helps you.
I kinda want to see the kriby scaled up to 200% I just think that it will be awesome to see a huge squishy kriby
that stickiness is likely a result of improper mixing or adding too much colorant. it will never dry out. Also, contaminates in the mold can cause no curing.
dawg that mix job had me crying :P
tbh, for platinum cure silicone, I'd stick with either smooth-on's dragon skin or platsil gel 10, most of the random silicones on amazon are pretty dodgy. It's more expensive for sure, but worth the better outcome imho.
yeah, and some are certified safe for skin and food contact.
If you ever seen the 3-D bust of the head, that moves like a slinky this is how they made it😮3D printing is🤯
You could also melt Crayons and make little crayon figures
I've molded and made crayon legos
The "squishy" factor of the different silicone mixes is determined by the shore hardness rating of them. The lower the number, 1-100, the squishier it will be when cured. It can be hard sometimes to find the shore hardness when shopping for a silicone mix. The red mold mix has a higher shore hardness than the Elmer's mix.
Oh you mentioned smoothon silicone was 50 dollars, you can get cheaper versions. Dragon skin is a particularly tough platinum based silicone used for props, it's meant to take a beating and it's one of the more expensive options. They have cheaper silicones for around 20ish-30 something dollars and I think that works out cheaper than the Elmers silicon because with the full Elmers refill pack you could only get like 5 casts, with the smoothon silicon you'd have enough to do nearly 100.
I swear by them! OOMOO 30 Silicone Mold Making
The little "trench" is just considered a mold key. Can take on pretty much any shape, just to make sure the molds are going together perfectly lined up.
Hey, Audio is Perfect now volume still feels a tad high
@6:30 - Love the shirt Jessy!
This could be a cool way to make the soft armor on things like halo Spartan armor.
1000% smooth on also makes some pourable foam that I need to try
Happy printing! 👍🏾
Cool shirt! My favorite concert was in Rochester.
Molding silicone in a silicone mold is going to go badly, yes.
heeey i did this same thing recently for a digital fabrication class at college! i made a little cat in zbrush and then turned it into a mold with fusion 360. i used xtc 3d coating on the mold to cover up the layer lines and smooth out the final product a bit, but mine still picked up a few layer lines and had some flashing as well lol.
i actually was inspired by the elmer’s squishies too, i love those what a fun way to get kids interested in mold making and casting tbh. i used cheap platinum silicone from amazon, the one i used had a pink part a and blue part b so it ended up looking like a nice light blueish color.
btw if anyone is interested in this project i think SLA resin can inhibit the cure of platinum silicone, at least it can according to the instruction packet of the silicone kit i bought. thats why i did it with FDM and used the xtc 3d to make the finished mold a little smoother looking :)
Thanks so much never knew Elmer's made Squishies! Going to have to try this on my 3d printer!
Dude. This is so spot on to the project ive been working on. Mindblowing that we both had the same idea with the elmers
The thumbnail had me thinking this was a different type of toy..?!? A real “hey! Don’t put your-“
Uncle Jesse turns into Robert Tolone on this episode...Pour high, friend.
Those trenches are called “registration key”.
Very professional technology~
you're supposed to use a funnel in the hole XD
these came out great though.
I've used silicone caulking (like for bathrooms) for this with great success in the past. It's very cheap.
You can fill porous molds with molten paraffin. Just slosh it around and wipe out the excess and let it cool. Presumably would work the same for hiding layer lines!
Seems like a great way to make custom versions of those silicone wristbands.
we all knw what people are gonna use this for....
Also you can squish a little bit of clay between the mold half and smooth it into the mold to have no flashing
Ohhh will definitely be trying that thanks
@@UncleJessy Just keep it to a very thin gasket of clay, squeeze the two halves together and use your thumb or a dental tool to smooth out the seam and voila
Dude this is so dope
I'm thinking that the reason the silicone didn't cure in your silicone logo mold is because one was tin cure and the other was platinum. The two won't work together.
I wish there was a simple tool that could take a model, offer several ways to generate a mould from it - 2, 3 or 4 part, registration marks, parting lines, sprues etc. and then generate the mould parts.
Tpu has left the chat-
What im tryna say is why silicone? Why not tpu
I use ecoflex 00-10 a lot and it cures a little bit tacky, if you don't need that property and don't mind the appearance being dulled+matte you can slap some corn starch on it.
I really enjoy these types of videos that feature fun little projects that don't require much prep work but are different enough to still be interesting. I don't know if it's ADHD or just adult responsibilities, but larger projects leave me with decision paralysis and end up sitting unfinished or unstarted for months.
(I'm not at all surprised by the NIUB results. My first thought on seeing the stereotypical "alphabet soup" Amazon company name on an off-brand silicone mix was "this isn't going to end well...")
I love the idea of printing a mold then casting it in various methods. One thing I want to try out is creating my own head for making hats. My idea atm is scan my head, create a 3D printed mold of it, either put a crap ton of mold release or just use plastic, then putting great stuff (expanding foam) on the inside. I've heard if you sprits it with water, there will be less bubbles. This could also be a cool test in your studio to display all of the helmets.
As for the silicone, as someone else mentioned, silicone is piiicky when it comes to measuring. Eyeballing can be very difficult to get right. Some are volume based and some are weight based. Others are also 1:1, 1:2, or 1:3 ratios. At the hardware store, you can get measuring buckets but they're really large for what you're doing. I got a little 100ml cup on amazon to measure resin
That´s the method i used to make Silicone Vibration Dampers and Socks for my heatblock. Great Video! Love seeing these type of Content!
Fun video! I love your content. Also, might I add - your hair is looking on point my man!
If you guys want to see someone awesome with mold making in resin and medical grade silicone, look up Howard Senft on RUclips. Stallone himself commissioned him to make the Rocky. Howard also makes some other characters in his vids.
For a one off the Elmer’s is probably the best deal instead of spending less and wasting unused.
Yeah I really didn’t want to spend $50 on dragon skin and not use it all. Plus the squishies mix is at my local Walmart. Super convenient
You should make them hollow to save on materials
Feels like the resin printers would be an ideal option for printing the molds (due to the smaller layer lines)
silicone can have problems with resin but they're pretty easily worked around
@@Cozmox874 interesting. Do you have to coat the print first then? Maybe a spray paint?
@@gbspikyfishthere's special resin for this
a thin coating of Vaseline would help with the release, especially on your silicone logo mould.
Wow!!!! My mind is 🤯🤯🤯
"squishy toys" Giggity,
So squishy! A fun project to do with my kids (especially that Kirby)
This is cool! I’ve been following and watching you for a couple years now. It’s crazy because I bought silicone stuff end of last year to play with this, but I got a resin printer and still learning that lol
Where did you get the files to print? Awesome video! Want to make these for my daughter for Xmas stocking stuffers
Surprised you didn't use the new Siriya Tech silicone.
This was epic and makes me want a 3D printer. Didn't think about mold making from a 3D printer
I can see why Elmer's squishy was the squishiest, it was made to be a squishy
The others weren't made to be squishy, and the red one for sure was made to be a mold and not molded into something
But pretty interesting, I might use the red one for some bigger action figures when I make some, thanks for the video
Haven't tried any of these myself. But I do know that 2 part mixes are very sensitive to proper mixing. The niub failings might go away if properly measured.
Yeah later in the video I properly measured and tested and it’s been 48+ hours and still not cured. I saw an amazon review saying it helps if you mix for 4-8 mins before pouring
@@UncleJessy Platinum silicone is very sensitive. You could have some cure inhibition going on. You have to make sure to clean out your mixing cups, and absolutely no sulfur around it as well.
That is dope once again but, once again, how do you chose the silicon ?
I was just randomly trying what I could find that wasn’t super expensive. Joann’s and Michael’s has the Elmer’s squishies and the amazing mold maker red silicone
@@UncleJessy lmao I can imagine "that maybe? And this and this one ? "
I'll just mimic you and try some of what ever I can get my hands on !
Anyway thanks for the amazing content as always
But for any object - i can just pop a box in tinker cad, set the obj I want for the mold as hollow, put it in the box, merge them and cut the box in 2. Takes like 2 minutes so why would I go buy a mold???
Inspyr3D is pure nostalgic awesomeness, I am a happy subscriber. 👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
have you tried putting the Elmer's in a vacuum chamber?
I Like To Make Stuff did a video a while back about making silicone mats and a has a video about how to choose them
Use baby powder as mold release. There are different shore for harder or softer silicone. But most importantly is that platinum silicone is very picky to materials it touches to for curing, like resin printed molds is big no for platinum silicone, there is very small list of materials that are ok with platinum silicone. Use rtv silicone instead, unless you need the toy to last long. Also keep in mind all stuff is toxic, so breathing isn't great nearby especially with kids, same as 3d resin.
Just bought two boxes of Squishies from Walmart. They owe you.
Great idea Jesse
how did you make the mold with cnc printer? what filament type did you use for a rubber effect?
Would be interested in the caulk, cornstarch, mineral spirits method. Read about it while researching different low cost silicone materials.
These cure exothermically. So smaller parts don’t generate enough heat and can’t cure. Mixing can also go wrong as it is like mixing acrylics and oils (platinum vs tin). Normally you make your mold boxes out of the silicon and pour urethane plastic.
Elegoo really needs to release more Max printers!
Agreed! I want to buy another 😂🤣
Thank you so much for making this video. I've been looking into using silicon to make my own rings and figures from my prints.
Oh some silicone rings could be fun
@Uncle Jessy I think so. There isn't many unique ones out there. I want to make something else. That's my goal
The squid mold you cold have just drilled the hole out bigger
As someone coming from the squishy/diy toy community when you get things that are sticky and squishy sometimes putting cornstarch on them can help! There’s actually squishy resins out there that you have to dust with some kind of very fine powder or it’ll be sticky forever
Damn it Jessy! I have SOOOO many projects going on and yet here I am researching molds and silicone. LOL Why u do dis? LOL
So if I want to print silicone I have to print the plastic mold to fill with silicone
yes. you cannot (at least not today) 3d print with silicone filament.
I didn't think Elmer could make cool stuff like that. They are just known to have the shittiest glue stick on earth.
What silicone are you using ? Because when I use the silicone I got from let’s resins. The silicone doesn’t cure around my mold.
Try making soft plastic lure molds
Do the Elmer's Squishies dry out over time?
Idea for a metalcast made of plaster with a pla object.
Is it possible:
1. print something in pla
2. cover it with plaster
3. melt/burn the pla out
4. pour some metal into the plastercast
5. destroy the plaster
I know, that this is working with wax-objekts and some kind of plaster-mixture, but is it possible to melt out the pla without destroying the plaster-cast ?
Smooth-on sell all platinum cure silicones much cheaper.
I wonder if you could do the same to make a mold for candles? Can't be that different right?
Some silicone products need to measured by weight instead of by volume. Double check that you are measuring them properly, if they need to be measured by weight, then you have to use a scale instead of a measuring cup.
A year ago I expanded on my 3D printing hobby and started looking into dice making (like for D&D) so I learned a lot about silicone mold making and important tips like @zachpennington1746 mentions about tin cure vs platinum cure silicone. Anyway... Smooth-On makes a product called XTC-3D that is a type of resin that you brush on to remove layer lines. It works pretty well. Also you can go the cheap Harbor Freight way (about $100) and get a pressure pot to make sure the silicone molds don't have bubbles when the silicone cures. If you have questions, let me know. I'd be happy to share what I've learned!
Oh, and another tip - cut registration keys into your silicone molds. It makes it far far easier to demold! :D
When we/I have done fiber glassing if things were a little tacky we would put them in the sun for a few hours. Don't know if it would work on that stuff it's just a thought.