I watch alot of youtube mechanics and the voice/presentation style is very offputting. cant watch it, feels like an infomercial. goes down well with those form the UK, they love this sh!t! instead of actual mechanical advice, sharing experience or knowledge (which this guy obviously has!) --> its just really bad jokes and trying to get you to laugh about how unreliable your land rover is. yay. clap clap.
I love the way that you describe youself as someone who paints things on RUclips, and then demonstrate that you really know your way around the 2.25 engines. My current Series III is a gutless diesel but I used to have one with a petrol engine. The acceleration with the petrol variant, from a standing start, is pretty impressive; all the way up to 25 mph. The fuel consumption is frightening however. For a while, I had to drive a 90 mile round trip to work and back and the only running vehicle I had was the petrol series III. I had to fill the tank two or three times a week. But, they are very forgiving engines. I once put petrol in a diesel 2.25 and it ran well enough to get ten miles to another petrol station, so that I could drain out the fuel and refill with diesel. The injector pump didn't appear to suffer at all, despite the gloomy prognostications of my Land Rover owning friends. I've also got a modern car and if the onboard computer detects a problem, then it's off to the dealer for a fix. It's all very comfortable and convenient, until it goes belly up, but it's not real *motoring* is it?
I could not agree with you more. The main difference, between Analogue Cars and the digital age is Access to Information. Were it the case that your Toyota Hybrid Dealer / aftermarket guys could sell you a module and comms codes so that you can reveal the settings in the ECU or its subsidiary controllers, you could ID the issue and swap out the board. BUT that info is denied to the owner. Our Best hope is for a manufacturer who embraces Open Source Coding. You Buy the car, You buy the code.
@@cameronmurie Pretty sure open source coding has been intentionally denied in the EU (and other regions) to stop consumers bypassing ECU controlled emissions restrictions. In the early days ECU's could easily be manipulated to not trigger engine warning lights for bypassed egr's etc, however anything like that now triggers the light and it's an inspection fail.
The hesitation from idle to throttle, plus the stumbles on the road, suggest it wants more spark advance. This engine has no timing marks - but there's another way, one that tailors spark timing to the individual engine. This method was particularly valuable in North America in the '80's where the car companies turned their spark advance down to insanely low numbers (NO engine likes ATDC primary timing!!!) for Granny who never drives over 25 mph and is so badly carboned-up she's running >200 lb compression. And the method is fast, and simplicity itself. Familiar with pre-ignition? - that little 'pinging' under acceleration, that sounds like a cylinder might just have a few 1/8" ball bearings bouncing around inside. Warm your engine up, then work it hard going slowly (3rd gear (1:1 final drive on an '80's 3-speed automatic) at ~30 mph - difficult to do with an automatic trans because it wants to downshift), and listen for pre-ignition. If you don't hear it, advance spark timing until you do - if you do hear it, then back-off a couple degrees, tighten the timing nut and you're done. I used to keep my timing nut loose enough that I could just turn the distributor; and I soon found out which stations sold the highest-octane gasoline. No problem if you get the low-octane stuff (or the station manager has been adulterating his gasoline with naphtha to save a buck filling his tanks) - back the timing off a bit and you're good to go.
Yeah - that's a small factoid about octane that not a lot of people know. Back in the 1910's the companies made insanely big engines for racing - we're talking 28 litres; look-up the Beast of Turin - because the only way to get more power back then was to make the engine bigger; "octane" hadn't been discovered yet, and raw gasoline can only support ~6:1 compression. Octane is a fraction of crude oil, like gasoline but it can support 8:1 compression. So once this was discovered, racers started mixing-in octane to their gasoline for more timing, i.e. more performance - the use of the word "octane" for high-performance fuels dates from this. But even running straight octane only gives you 8:1, and there isn't that much octane in crude oil anyways. So petrochemical researchers got-on with finding other dopants - the search goes-on today, and high-test AVGAS played an important part in WW2 aviation. Ultimately, you can get more power today from 1 litre than the "Beast" could get from 28 - that's almost entirely because of the better fuel.
You are really good at this stuff. Thank you for sharing. Rebuilding and fitting a spare carburetor to my 1976 S3 LWB pick up. The engine was swapped in 2000. Now runs a Holden 186. It runs smoother since an older school mechanic "listened" closely and adjusted timing. A new exhaust manifold might help too. Thank you for sharing the video. Very good editing from a clever fella. Hello from Wellington. All the best.
I reckon most of us on the other side of rhe ditch thought you had locked yourself in the sheep dungeon (hey, your words, not mine). Glad to see you back. What a bitza of a landy engine and linkage train! Some great tips in there for those diagnosing issues with their Landy. Thanks again!
@12:00 that is more or less a vacuum taking bad gasses out of the block/tappet area to be burned in the cylinder. On larger engines I believe its called crank case ventilation. The Zenith carb at the end I bet had something called Zenith Warp, A bunch of aftermarket ones were made that did not get reheated a second time? so anyways the 3 pieces that make up the Zenith carb warp after a while of being red hot to cooled down. I had to lap mine on a piece of glass with fine sandpaper several times over several months. Very, very annoying, and it also produced black soot everywhere, poor idle, dieseling, hard starting. For anyone else interested if you get a bad compression test, look up pressure test or maybe its called blow down test, anyway you can narrow it down to exhaust or intake valve or piston rings etc with out opening up the motor. I did it any was able to know I had a bad exhaust valve in #1, just saying if you wanted to know in general where the trouble is more precisely. Thanks for the awesome video! Its seriously is very helpful to me learning from you.
Glad to see you back - but TWO channels?? What was wrong with separate playlists? Perhaps I’m one of the odd ones that likes watching both Landrover AND general machining content….
I was just thinking about your channel the other day. It's been far too long so, it's great to see you back. I don't mind the mix of Landy and machining stuff but, this is fine too. Nice shout out to VGG
HI Just wanted to say, I really miss your videos...IMHO, you have one of the best channels...no nonsense, a bit of humour and some great tips and anecdotes to make your eyes water. Keep up the good work, or should I say Kip up the good werk.. Doubly
Excellent video, my rough-running 1972 series 3 now has a date with this vid as a methodical guide to troubleshooting! Minus the rigged throttle spring and no timing marks; fortunately! 😄
So glad you are back, great video as always. I have a Series 3 88" 2286 petrol in the same light green colour. It too had a copy carb and smoked a lot. Uphill it would hesitate although I could drive around it a bit by changing gear etc. Flat out at 80kph. Replaced the carb with a professionally rebuilt Zenith from the UK and new aramid carb gaskets from HNJ Engineering. Adjusted the carb as per the procedure on the Glencoyne Engineering website. It no longer hesitates on hills and will get up to 100kph on the flat - a significant improvement. I'm also sourcing an original professionally rebuilt Lucas distributor (there is a copy dizzy on there now - the bob weights calibration will be wrong) and replacing the nasty-looking HT leads. The choke even works now I connected up the correct cable (it has two choke cables for some reason). The mixture screw with the plastic shroud pointing to the engine I think is a later so-called 'anti-tamper' version - much easier to adjust the earlier version that points toward the front of the engine. The copy carb has gone in the bin.
I love the new video! You're not an idiot my friend, far from it. You're a true talent! The skills, humor and wit involved in making this video is second to none. excellent!
Oh, your back, I was beginning to think the worst (Quote from Herbert Moon, Red Dead Redemption). Awesome video Mr Croker, thanks for the Share! Glad to see you back on line turning out videos that we are all waiting to watch. Cheers!
Well between you and I let’s find out what the problem is with this brand new carb because I did have exactly the same scenario with my Series 3! Great video of information and entertainment well done 👍🏽 Thanks 🙏🏼
well i'll be dipped. Subscribed These ye old 2.25 petrols can handle a skosh of extra timing on modern fuel(not goat pis). I run mine around 9 or 12 degrees at idle.
I get the channel split, no effort to subscribe to both, but I am surprised that there's not more crossover between the two themes. I love them both, I love mechanics, I love machining, hell I thought it was the perfect mix. Still great, and probably more efficient for you.
As a Land Rover owner this was an awesome video, should be a prerequisite to owning a landy. I've been taught to heat up spark plugs with a propane torch which burns off the carbon - gives you the opportunity to look at the electrode.
I love your work and am.so.glad to see your back. I was checking every week or so to see if you'd posted new vids. I've subscribed to the new channel and can't wait to see what you've got in store for the future
I just bought that exact same Zenith copy carby but the engine runs exactly the same. Figured it can’t be the carby that’s the problem then, but maybe it is…
Land Rover 88/109; il migliore prodotto dell'azienda ormai scomparsa. Sopravvive soltanto il marchio commerciale, vuoto di significato industriale, nelle mani profane della Tata
Mate you need to do a show. Seriously you have a gift.
I know.
The gift of Aspergers 😊
Love it! Great work, can’t wait to see what’s coming. We’ve all missed you!
I watch alot of youtube mechanics and the voice/presentation style is very offputting. cant watch it, feels like an infomercial. goes down well with those form the UK, they love this sh!t! instead of actual mechanical advice, sharing experience or knowledge (which this guy obviously has!) --> its just really bad jokes and trying to get you to laugh about how unreliable your land rover is. yay. clap clap.
Every minute spent editing was worthwhile. The evil possum will forever haunt my dreams.
Best Land Rover content on RUclips by far!
An excellent video as usual! Was beginning to wonder what had happened to you.... glad you are well and still messing about with old crap.
I have plenty of old crap to keep me going 😁
Loved the VGG shoutout :)
Awesome bit of old school mechanics mixed up with some homour and mostly success. Loved this one.
Welcome back, waiting to see whats happening with your Landy rebuild
Coming. Maybe this weekend
yay, great to see you back, sneaky little VGG trope in there, kudos
I love the way that you describe youself as someone who paints things on RUclips, and then demonstrate that you really know your way around the 2.25 engines.
My current Series III is a gutless diesel but I used to have one with a petrol engine. The acceleration with the petrol variant, from a standing start, is pretty impressive; all the way up to 25 mph. The fuel consumption is frightening however. For a while, I had to drive a 90 mile round trip to work and back and the only running vehicle I had was the petrol series III. I had to fill the tank two or three times a week.
But, they are very forgiving engines. I once put petrol in a diesel 2.25 and it ran well enough to get ten miles to another petrol station, so that I could drain out the fuel and refill with diesel. The injector pump didn't appear to suffer at all, despite the gloomy prognostications of my Land Rover owning friends.
I've also got a modern car and if the onboard computer detects a problem, then it's off to the dealer for a fix. It's all very comfortable and convenient, until it goes belly up, but it's not real *motoring* is it?
Time fot a turbo Barra, mate
I could not agree with you more. The main difference, between Analogue Cars and the digital age is Access to Information. Were it the case that your Toyota Hybrid Dealer / aftermarket guys could sell you a module and comms codes so that you can reveal the settings in the ECU or its subsidiary controllers, you could ID the issue and swap out the board. BUT that info is denied to the owner. Our Best hope is for a manufacturer who embraces Open Source Coding. You Buy the car, You buy the code.
@@cameronmurie Pretty sure open source coding has been intentionally denied in the EU (and other regions) to stop consumers bypassing ECU controlled emissions restrictions. In the early days ECU's could easily be manipulated to not trigger engine warning lights for bypassed egr's etc, however anything like that now triggers the light and it's an inspection fail.
Thanks Geoff, now I have 2 favourite channels.
Holy shit! A new video! He's alive!
So glad your back......... I missed you.
Other content creator’s should weep. THIS is fantastic content and so very well produced. Subbed to both channels.
Its been long buddy... welcome back
Inform, Educate, Entertain. Nice work Geoff.
The hesitation from idle to throttle, plus the stumbles on the road, suggest it wants more spark advance. This engine has no timing marks - but there's another way, one that tailors spark timing to the individual engine. This method was particularly valuable in North America in the '80's where the car companies turned their spark advance down to insanely low numbers (NO engine likes ATDC primary timing!!!) for Granny who never drives over 25 mph and is so badly carboned-up she's running >200 lb compression. And the method is fast, and simplicity itself.
Familiar with pre-ignition? - that little 'pinging' under acceleration, that sounds like a cylinder might just have a few 1/8" ball bearings bouncing around inside. Warm your engine up, then work it hard going slowly (3rd gear (1:1 final drive on an '80's 3-speed automatic) at ~30 mph - difficult to do with an automatic trans because it wants to downshift), and listen for pre-ignition. If you don't hear it, advance spark timing until you do - if you do hear it, then back-off a couple degrees, tighten the timing nut and you're done. I used to keep my timing nut loose enough that I could just turn the distributor; and I soon found out which stations sold the highest-octane gasoline. No problem if you get the low-octane stuff (or the station manager has been adulterating his gasoline with naphtha to save a buck filling his tanks) - back the timing off a bit and you're good to go.
Probably 7:1 compression or maybe 8:1 no point running high octane designed to run on rubbish fuel
Yeah - that's a small factoid about octane that not a lot of people know. Back in the 1910's the companies made insanely big engines for racing - we're talking 28 litres; look-up the Beast of Turin - because the only way to get more power back then was to make the engine bigger; "octane" hadn't been discovered yet, and raw gasoline can only support ~6:1 compression.
Octane is a fraction of crude oil, like gasoline but it can support 8:1 compression. So once this was discovered, racers started mixing-in octane to their gasoline for more timing, i.e. more performance - the use of the word "octane" for high-performance fuels dates from this. But even running straight octane only gives you 8:1, and there isn't that much octane in crude oil anyways. So petrochemical researchers got-on with finding other dopants - the search goes-on today, and high-test AVGAS played an important part in WW2 aviation. Ultimately, you can get more power today from 1 litre than the "Beast" could get from 28 - that's almost entirely because of the better fuel.
I do not own a Land Rover and never will. But I find your videos and commentary magnificent. Thanks.
You are really good at this stuff. Thank you for sharing. Rebuilding and fitting a spare carburetor to my 1976 S3 LWB pick up. The engine was swapped in 2000. Now runs a Holden 186. It runs smoother since an older school mechanic "listened" closely and adjusted timing. A new exhaust manifold might help too. Thank you for sharing the video. Very good editing from a clever fella. Hello from Wellington. All the best.
I reckon most of us on the other side of rhe ditch thought you had locked yourself in the sheep dungeon (hey, your words, not mine). Glad to see you back. What a bitza of a landy engine and linkage train! Some great tips in there for those diagnosing issues with their Landy. Thanks again!
Really enjoyed the video. Glad you're not dead - Assumptions were made that you had become trapped under a Landy chassis and perished.
The king has returned!!!!
@12:00 that is more or less a vacuum taking bad gasses out of the block/tappet area to be burned in the cylinder. On larger engines I believe its called crank case ventilation. The Zenith carb at the end I bet had something called Zenith Warp, A bunch of aftermarket ones were made that did not get reheated a second time? so anyways the 3 pieces that make up the Zenith carb warp after a while of being red hot to cooled down. I had to lap mine on a piece of glass with fine sandpaper several times over several months. Very, very annoying, and it also produced black soot everywhere, poor idle, dieseling, hard starting. For anyone else interested if you get a bad compression test, look up pressure test or maybe its called blow down test, anyway you can narrow it down to exhaust or intake valve or piston rings etc with out opening up the motor. I did it any was able to know I had a bad exhaust valve in #1, just saying if you wanted to know in general where the trouble is more precisely. Thanks for the awesome video! Its seriously is very helpful to me learning from you.
You have to love these simple engines, it takes me back to 1963 and my first car. Subscribed to the channel.
VGG reference was excellent.
Love the VGG reference :D
You did a great job there.
The old "Series" Landys are great vehicles to learn car mechanics on. I still miss my Series 3........
Yes, I sold my Series 3 last year so I am left watching videos to get my Landy fix ☹
Inform, Educate, Entertain. Thanks Geoff.
exceptional video
Glad to see you back - but TWO channels?? What was wrong with separate playlists? Perhaps I’m one of the odd ones that likes watching both Landrover AND general machining content….
I like anything he puts out
Great to see your work again!!!!
I was just thinking about your channel the other day. It's been far too long so, it's great to see you back. I don't mind the mix of Landy and machining stuff but, this is fine too. Nice shout out to VGG
Had no idea a diesel lower part could be used as a petrol engine on these Rovers.
Really missed your content, glad you're back
Just found this 2 months later....
Good to know you are still alive. One never knows...
Nice job Sir.
Whirly gig, the cheapest rover timing tool that you'll steal from your kids! ROFL. Great video as always. Cheers from Alberta Canada!
I have a1983 range rover but learn a lot from waching these.As I have no mechanical expertise.
Thank you
Well…
In essence this video is a free class of car engineering… very nice indeed sir 👍
I really like your video style 👏🏻Happy to be your 7th subscriber (saw the post on patreon) 👌🏻
That was excellent! Informative and entertaining too. You're a prince among Rovers!
Ive watched this video 4 or 5 times now as i struggle to get my 2.25 to run better. Very useful video. Thanks
Can't wait to binge all these when its out
I may quite possibly be your most auto-ignorant subscriber. Your stuff is fun to watch even though I have no idea what you’re doing. :)
HI Just wanted to say, I really miss your videos...IMHO, you have one of the best channels...no nonsense, a bit of humour and some great tips and anecdotes to make your eyes water. Keep up the good work, or should I say Kip up the good werk.. Doubly
I love your videos, this is another top notch one!
Excellent video, my rough-running 1972 series 3 now has a date with this vid as a methodical guide to troubleshooting! Minus the rigged throttle spring and no timing marks; fortunately! 😄
you are the funniest bloke on RUclips, love your work keep the videos coming
This is an excellent reference video and highly entertaining to boot.
I love your Tony-style humour and editing.
Loved the Vice Grip Garage reference! Happy to see you back posting again, was concerned you were sick or something.
"Because .. Land Rovers are reliable!" - I'm glad you left the pause for us all to stop laughing!
So glad you are back, great video as always. I have a Series 3 88" 2286 petrol in the same light green colour. It too had a copy carb and smoked a lot. Uphill it would hesitate although I could drive around it a bit by changing gear etc. Flat out at 80kph. Replaced the carb with a professionally rebuilt Zenith from the UK and new aramid carb gaskets from HNJ Engineering. Adjusted the carb as per the procedure on the Glencoyne Engineering website. It no longer hesitates on hills and will get up to 100kph on the flat - a significant improvement. I'm also sourcing an original professionally rebuilt Lucas distributor (there is a copy dizzy on there now - the bob weights calibration will be wrong) and replacing the nasty-looking HT leads. The choke even works now I connected up the correct cable (it has two choke cables for some reason). The mixture screw with the plastic shroud pointing to the engine I think is a later so-called 'anti-tamper' version - much easier to adjust the earlier version that points toward the front of the engine. The copy carb has gone in the bin.
Welcome back to the land of the, um...living/undead/RUclips? I have missed your regular updates. Excellent work as always
Your humor always gets me, keep making videos as long as you can. Also I am one of the few people who want to watch land rover and tool shit
My heart goes out to the algorithm that has to add subtitles to this.
“Tip did sinter”
So stoked this channel is a thing. Don't ever loose this stile you have, so refreshing and it's great
Thank you for such a superb video. The first one I’ve seen so easy to follow and inspiring me to take on my series 3. Please more of the same.
I love the new video! You're not an idiot my friend, far from it. You're a true talent! The skills, humor and wit involved in making this video is second to none. excellent!
Thanks Geoffrey! love all the content following both channels - appreciate the videos... really tough with a family and job.
Your over editing is just amazing and I love it!
Aaaahh yes! The wait is over, thank you
That was great. I have an old series 2 which runs rough so I'll do what you showed and see how I go thanks
Bloody brilliant fella, Im just about to start on a 2A pick up, your stuff is perfect!@
Oh, your back, I was beginning to think the worst (Quote from Herbert Moon, Red Dead Redemption). Awesome video Mr Croker, thanks for the Share! Glad to see you back on line turning out videos that we are all waiting to watch. Cheers!
Nice VGG reference!
An absolute wealth of land rover knowledge and skills. Keep up the good work dude
Well between you and I let’s find out what the problem is with this brand new carb because I did have exactly the same scenario with my Series 3!
Great video of information and entertainment well done 👍🏽
Thanks 🙏🏼
Welcome back thanks God you’re alive!,keep the great work up 👍
Goes to show .. rebuilding original is better than knock off parts.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Often, that seems to be the case.
Missed you man!!! Glad to see you making vids again
I'm a crossover from the other channel. Can't say I care anything about landrovers but I do enjoy the host's wit and humor, so here I am.
Great videos! Super funny. I just finished watching the whole build series for the series 3. I am looking for a Land Rover now 😂.
That's the spirit! 😆
well i'll be dipped. Subscribed
These ye old 2.25 petrols can handle a skosh of extra timing on modern fuel(not goat pis).
I run mine around 9 or 12 degrees at idle.
On 1098cc Morris Minors it's recommended that the clearance of the exhaust valves are increased by 2 thou. to compensate for the weasel wee.
I get the channel split, no effort to subscribe to both, but I am surprised that there's not more crossover between the two themes. I love them both, I love mechanics, I love machining, hell I thought it was the perfect mix. Still great, and probably more efficient for you.
Wow this takes me back to doing maintenance on my old 2A! Love it!
Absolutely love it! Great work 🙌
Nice Geoff keep up the good work love watching the videos 🇬🇧 😎👍
Yeah great to see you back! Are you also going to use this channel to update us on the series restoration?
Yup. New stuff coming in about a week.
Awesome vid. Thanks Geoff!
Only just found you. Brilliant video.
Awesome as always Thanks mate
As a Land Rover owner this was an awesome video, should be a prerequisite to owning a landy. I've been taught to heat up spark plugs with a propane torch which burns off the carbon - gives you the opportunity to look at the electrode.
Well worth the wait. Good to see progress.
great video
I love your work and am.so.glad to see your back. I was checking every week or so to see if you'd posted new vids. I've subscribed to the new channel and can't wait to see what you've got in store for the future
I do wonder if the cheap new carburator had a too high float level, which would cause too rich running.
Brilliant! Love it, as usual!
Wwii jeeps had the clearances on them also. 🙌
Amazing professional work waiting more. Subscribed
Great stuff, well thought out and presented.
Nice to see some one who knows his trade Cheers :)
Well worth the wait - great stuff!
The master is back 🔙🔨🔨
Great job troubleshooting!!
Hi Cory, thought I might see you here! My two favourite LR youtubers!
@@merykjenkins3274 Thanks Man!! I watch as much as I video and upload!! Ha ha!!
Cheers Cory
I just bought that exact same Zenith copy carby but the engine runs exactly the same. Figured it can’t be the carby that’s the problem then, but maybe it is…
Well done chap
I'm glad my couple of bucks each month is able to be helpful. Subscribing to this channel too.
23:38 holy hell what a difference!
Land Rover 88/109; il migliore prodotto dell'azienda ormai scomparsa. Sopravvive soltanto il marchio commerciale, vuoto di significato industriale, nelle mani profane della Tata
Love your content! I think if you open the throttle while doing the compression test, you should see somewhat higher numbers.