Like the pallet idea, i have seen one idea similar but used a cattle panel and some 2x6 under neath as pallets. We put all of our hay (alfalfa mostly and grass) inside a shed but we still put it all on pallets as well. For our pallets we always go to the lumber yard or hardware store where they have the small pallet, sizes rage a little along with thickness but they just look to get rid of so cant complain when its free pallets. we only look for the thinner ones for our use, maybe 3"-4" think, the ones that our grater then that we just use if we hand stack. so we lay down the pallets (4-6 pallets, just depends on the size of pallets we have) where we plan to put the next load of hay, we back the load up a little so we can see where the tires will back up to and lay down/stack 2 of 2x12 boards about 8' long for each side/wheel set .The top board we have about 1 foot shorter so its a more gradual rise with the tires. we never tried the thicker pallets but if you did i'm sure all you would have to do is add another 2x12x9 on bottom of the 2 that are already there, so when you go to drop the load you don't crush all your pallets. dad has done it this way for the last 10 years and likes it because its cheap and you dont have any bad bottom bales. we fill a 40x90 shed so have a bunch of pallets but the only cost for us were the 2x12 boards. but i do understand not everyone has excess to free pallets. good video!!
We are hoping to rig up a stack retriever truck with some makeshift pallet forks so we can retrieve the stacks with an International 4700. I think i saw the same video where the guy had a pallet with the panels on the bottom. It would work to keep the hay off the ground. My dad and I were both skeptical if it would be robust enough to retrieve the pallet with a load of hay on it. I would like to fast track a few of these projects and get everything up and running. My pitfall is I do too many different things (youtube vids, work, fam, etc).
We built several pallets for our 1002 last year, and it made a lot of difference on stacking and rot loss. With the pallets, we rarely use the pusher feet (which are a nightmare in themselves on a 1002) unless they try to bind up while pulling the rack out from under the bales. I'm pretty sure the first couple Dad built he used 2x6's and deck boards, then switched to 2x8's for the runners and the same 5/4 deck boards for the platform. Our bales settled more than expected, and we ended up losing about 1/3 of the bottom row, but definitely better than the 100% loss on that layer.
Hi, like your pallet setup, I'm working on getting into pallets with my 1034 too. As far as the pallet itself goes, I found a great online forum that discusses the construction and a couple different designs. if you havent seen it before, you should check it out. www.haytalk.com/forums/topic/40593-bale-wagon-pallets-rodney-r/page-2?hl=pallet I'm prototyping mine as the split design for weight reduction and ease of handling. Like your videos, I'm trying to get a few of my own up from last summer. Best of luck in 2019!
RUclips just recommended your video on my timeline and I was like "I'm going to link my video to his and see how he's doing." then boom, there was your comment. It says I had "liked" but not "hearted" it. The heart emoji is a little over-the-top for me. Anyway, hope yours has gone well.
Haha, I hear you on the heart and thumbs up, aren't they the same? Guess not. My pallets worked real well, but then I "upgraded" from the 1034 to a 1049. 1034 pallets don't fit the bigger SP wagon. Oh well. Im putting up a video soon on an electronic control system I made for the 1034, so keep an eye out for it.
@@Xealuz That's awesome. 1049's are rare around here but found one in Kansas and drove it home. Worth the upgrade so far. Definitely curious to see electric control for bale wagon. I work with a garbage company and wondered about salvaging the control mechanism for similar project. But they are usually air-over-hydraulics and would need an air tank to make it work.
Like the pallet idea, i have seen one idea similar but used a cattle panel and some 2x6 under neath as pallets. We put all of our hay (alfalfa mostly and grass) inside a shed but we still put it all on pallets as well. For our pallets we always go to the lumber yard or hardware store where they have the small pallet, sizes rage a little along with thickness but they just look to get rid of so cant complain when its free pallets. we only look for the thinner ones for our use, maybe 3"-4" think, the ones that our grater then that we just use if we hand stack. so we lay down the pallets (4-6 pallets, just depends on the size of pallets we have) where we plan to put the next load of hay, we back the load up a little so we can see where the tires will back up to and lay down/stack 2 of 2x12 boards about 8' long for each side/wheel set .The top board we have about 1 foot shorter so its a more gradual rise with the tires. we never tried the thicker pallets but if you did i'm sure all you would have to do is add another 2x12x9 on bottom of the 2 that are already there, so when you go to drop the load you don't crush all your pallets.
dad has done it this way for the last 10 years and likes it because its cheap and you dont have any bad bottom bales.
we fill a 40x90 shed so have a bunch of pallets but the only cost for us were the 2x12 boards. but i do understand not everyone has excess to free pallets.
good video!!
We are hoping to rig up a stack retriever truck with some makeshift pallet forks so we can retrieve the stacks with an International 4700. I think i saw the same video where the guy had a pallet with the panels on the bottom. It would work to keep the hay off the ground. My dad and I were both skeptical if it would be robust enough to retrieve the pallet with a load of hay on it. I would like to fast track a few of these projects and get everything up and running. My pitfall is I do too many different things (youtube vids, work, fam, etc).
We built several pallets for our 1002 last year, and it made a lot of difference on stacking and rot loss. With the pallets, we rarely use the pusher feet (which are a nightmare in themselves on a 1002) unless they try to bind up while pulling the rack out from under the bales. I'm pretty sure the first couple Dad built he used 2x6's and deck boards, then switched to 2x8's for the runners and the same 5/4 deck boards for the platform. Our bales settled more than expected, and we ended up losing about 1/3 of the bottom row, but definitely better than the 100% loss on that layer.
It is a good idea.
I have use it my self
It might work to your advantage to make your stack faceing down hill on skids
You don't need to use the push off feet with pallets.
Any updates on how they did and how the bales survived?
Hi, like your pallet setup, I'm working on getting into pallets with my 1034 too. As far as the pallet itself goes, I found a great online forum that discusses the construction and a couple different designs. if you havent seen it before, you should check it out.
www.haytalk.com/forums/topic/40593-bale-wagon-pallets-rodney-r/page-2?hl=pallet
I'm prototyping mine as the split design for weight reduction and ease of handling. Like your videos, I'm trying to get a few of my own up from last summer. Best of luck in 2019!
RUclips just recommended your video on my timeline and I was like "I'm going to link my video to his and see how he's doing." then boom, there was your comment. It says I had "liked" but not "hearted" it. The heart emoji is a little over-the-top for me.
Anyway, hope yours has gone well.
Haha, I hear you on the heart and thumbs up, aren't they the same? Guess not. My pallets worked real well, but then I "upgraded" from the 1034 to a 1049. 1034 pallets don't fit the bigger SP wagon. Oh well. Im putting up a video soon on an electronic control system I made for the 1034, so keep an eye out for it.
@@Xealuz That's awesome. 1049's are rare around here but found one in Kansas and drove it home. Worth the upgrade so far.
Definitely curious to see electric control for bale wagon. I work with a garbage company and wondered about salvaging the control mechanism for similar project. But they are usually air-over-hydraulics and would need an air tank to make it work.